Midnight Special by Olivier Pescheux for Ex Nihilo 2017




Hi Fumies,

A couple of weeks ago the LuckyScent eMail came with a Sample Set called LUXE. Obviously it was impossible to resist but I’ve been so swamped here that only a couple have even had skin time yet. I wore a spritz of Midnight Special on the back of my hand yesterday and really liked it but felt I needed to sit still for a while to really enjoy its multi facets. Tonight I did just that.

Midnight Special by Ex Nihilo 2017

Midnight Special by Olivier Pescheux

Midnight Special Ex Nihilo Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cinnamon, saffron, black pepper
Heart: Turkish rose, rose, grapefruit
Base: Agarwood (oud), patchouli, vanilla

Waxy saffron and sharp dry ground black pepper are tempered beautifully by fiery cinnamon in Midnight Special’s opening. While it is a very modern niche opening I think they’ve got the balance just right and it’s all playing together pretty seamlessly. Already the patchouli is creating an earthy balmy creaminess which anchors the fragrance.

The flowers don’t shine and I have this weird feeling that jasmine is missing from the note list when vanilla slowly and perfectly smoothly slides through and brings with it the roses. Suddenly the whole fragrance gets to smelling like the ambivalent love child of Guerlain and Parfums de Rosine. Imagine if you crossed Oriental Brulant and Un Zeste de Rose, OK you’re getting the idea. It’s REALLY gorgeous through the heart, spellbinding.

The dry down is nice, nothing groundbreaking but it does stay around for ages. Waiting a soft vanilla/oud with whispers of rose.


LuckyScent says: With Midnight Special, Olivier Pescheux transposes the mukhallat to a more Parisian format- the eau de parfum- keeping the focus on exceptional natural materials, but re-imagining it as a nocturnal elixir, with traditional elements of oud, rose, patchouli and spice given a cosmopolitan twist with a unique accord of rose jelly. The results are dynamic- dark, sensually smoky oud and luscious florals shine through, but the mouthwatering jelly accord, with its strong grapefruit facets, invigorates and energizes the heart notes, making an ancient formula feel vitally youthful. And a deep, rich and evocative base of oud and smooth, balanced vanilla lasts for untold hours, ensuring that the wearer will be turning heads well into the morning.

Midnight Special Ex Nihilo Arron Anon pexelsPDI

LuckyScent has $370/50ml and Samples

Do you ever get the LuckyScent sample packs?
Portia xx

34 Boulevard Saint Germain by Olivier Pescheux for Diptyque 2011




Hi there APJ,

Diptyque is a fragrant dinosaur from 1961. One of the Mass-Tige stalwarts I think they have done well to maintain their individuality through nearly 60 years of operation. Often bypassed by perfumistas because of their safe and pretty perfumes if you dig through their enormous range there are a lot of beautifully crafted, elegant perfumes. If the first reason for fragrance is to smell good then Diptyque should be regularly accoladed.

34 Boulevard Saint Germain by Diptyque 2011

34 Boulevard Saint Germain by Olivier Pescheux

34 boulevard Saint Germain Diptyque FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blackcurrant, green leaves, fir leaf, citruses, pink pepper, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon
Heart: Rose, geranium, tuberose, iris, violet
Base: Woods, resins, balsams, eucalyptus

2011 was the time that I discovered the online world of fragrance, started reading blogs and found sample sellers. Till then I had been avidly following the magazines and department store adventures of scent and was unprepared for the incredible largesse of niche, indie and artisan. Suddenly I was trying son many incredibly mind expending creations from around the world that almost anything available within easy reach had lost its lustre. So 34 Boulevard Saint Germain was released with barely a raised eyebrow in the scentbloggosphere and thus I remained unaware of how it actually smelled until much later.

Once I got 34 Boulevard Saint Germain on my skin I liked it very much, not a deep love yet, but I did take notice how ravishing it smelled. Then I went back and read a few lacklustre reviews and started doubting my own empirical evidence and with the constant rush of something new completely forgot about it. Until I tried it again a year or so ago and it went straight back on my wish list.

Then a mate was having a sell out and for a very reasonable price I was suddenly the owner ofd a 50ml bottle (Thanks Liam you sexy man). Then I wore it a few times and liked it very much. Till now and it’s been on my desk as a sneaky spritzer for months. It doesn’t even get put away in its box anymore but sits proudly on top, just in case I need a happy reminder how much I adore it.


How does 34 Boulevard Saint Germain smell? Well, it opens up big. It’s a luscious green melange that is smooth, bittersweet and slightly feral. It only lasts a few minutes but the opening fireworks are like every note in the list is trying to get your attention and by doing so they lose their individuality and become a larger than life fragrance that is zingy, creamy, green woods, bark and broken leaves drizzled over the squeaky sweetness of blackcurrant cordial.

The floral bouquet is unopened tuberose and a clover rose, but they are only bit players really because by the time you know it’s them they are already second fiddle to the resins and balsams. Which is what I am left with for the majority of the ride, a very lightly sweet resinous wood. very calm and eat wear but not simple enough to be a yawn.


Further reading: Now Smell This and FragranceDaily
Mecca has $123/50ml FREE Australian Shipping
Surrender To Chance has samples starting from $4/ml

Do you have a favourite Diptyque?
Portia xx

Eau Moheli by Olivier Pescheux for Diptyque 2013


Post by Portia


Hey Fumie Family,

Do you ever look through your samples and find something you have absolutely no recollection of acquiring? Today’s fragrance was in a lovely little box with a 2ml manufacturers spritz sample inside, about 70% full. So I did what any self respecting perfumista would do, I spritzed……

Yes, I know the northern hemisphere is gripped by winter but todays offering will have you dreaming that you’re seated at the bar in the pool ordering dacquiris from the half naked barman at your favourite equatorial resort.

Eau Moheli by Diptyque 2013

Eau Moheli by Olivier Pescheux

Eau Moheli Diptyque FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Floral notes, ylang-ylang, patchouli, pink pepper, ginger, vetiver, benzoin, incense

Green ginger, pink pepper and I would have picked coriander to open, a lovely sweet green fragrance with a hint of ylang’s creamy/banana/white flower underneath (Yes I know ylang is yellow but it gives definite white floral attitude). A lush and tropical opening. Here in Sydney we have some rain today and the world is muggy, Eau Moheli seems perfectly placed for the temperature and perfectly fits my mood of languid relaxation.

Once the opening fireworks burn down a bit Eau Moheli becomes more about the ylang but now it’s riding a crisp green vetiver and cleanest patchouli. This is my favourite part of the fragrance life. Not groundbreaking but extremely pleasant to wear, Eau Moheli becomes a fresh green with white flowers, still tropical and maintaining it’s island paradise holiday feel. I’m surprised coconut isn’t mentioned as a note.

Eau Moheli by Diptyque Pool_Bar WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

I feel that Diptyque, once at the vanguard of niche perfumery, has become a much more mainstream offering. If you were not a perfumista and you asked an SA for something tropical but more grown up and elegant than the Escada or Bronze Goddess lines then it would be a complete revelation to be shown Eau Moheli. It’s a beautifully smooth, easy wearing tropical fragrance that never skews to over ripe fruit of suntan lotion and would be excellent sniffed as someone walked past you.

As the fragrance progresses it gets a sweet resinous patchouli glow and I would say a healthy dose of musks for smooth vetiver dry down, very pretty but completely unchallenging for the hardcore perfume enthusiast. Ultimately an extremely wearable beauty with good projection and longevity.

Eau Moheli by Diptyque Frederic_Edwin_Church_-_Morning_in_the_Tropics WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $98/100ml and Samples

Do you have an easy wear tropical fragrance?
Portia xx

Voile d'Ambre by Olivier Pescheux for Yves Rocher 2005

Hey there frag crew,

A couple of years ago Jin and I traveled to Europe together, we had never traveled together before, not even for a weekend, yet we decided to put together a wonderful 6 week extravaganza of a holiday. We saw about 10 countries, saw family, met new and old friends, saw sights, laughed, ate, shopped, discovered and generally had the most wonderful time. There were only a couple of minor melt downs on the whole trip and those due to exhaustion rather than lack of common interest. Anyway, the first fragrance I bought while in Europe on that wonderful holiday in a little Yves Rocher shop in Prague was Voile d’Ambre….

Jin Portia Arc de Triomphe Paris Europe 2013

Voile d’Ambre by Olivier Pescheux for Yves Rocher 2005

Voile d'Ambre Yves Rocher FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin leaf, cardamom, mandarin orange, myrtle
Heart: Opoponax, incense, myrrh
Base: Patchouli, Australian sandalwood, Madagascar vanilla

Memories!!! Every time I spritz Voile d’Ambre I get a warm hot rush of happiness that is less to do with the sweet herbal amber that jumps off my skin than it does the wonderful memories of our first trip together. I can see us rugged up in our winter woolies in cities filled with mainly the residents because who is silly enough to travel midwinter through the heart of Europe? We got to see everything we wanted with zero wait time and the staff of everywhere were happy to see some foreigners and have a chat. I have done Europe in all the seasons now and I’ll always try to go in winter, it’s 100% more fun.

Voile d'Ambre Yves Rocher Prague WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Voile d’Ambre gives me a boozy, incense laden amber that is smooth and clean, a warm amber that is in no way challenging. This is comfort fragrance, warming, easy and cuddly. Though I wore it all through that winter in Europe I can also easily apply it in 30C Sydney heat and be comfortable, Voile d’Ambre is spare enough and has enough air through it that I’m not overwhelmed or constricted. I think it may be to do with the Australian sandalwood, which I find a little more astringent and green than the others, slightly eucalyptus feeling and that added to a clean but earthy patchouli rounds the whole fragrance out.

I make it read like the notes are discernible, they are not unless I have a notes list ion front of me, what I smell is a beautiful amber that changes slightly from greener in the beginning to non foody vanilla at dry down. It’s not a big and varied story but a soft and floaty ride through comfort to comfort, and filled with joyful memories. I am smiling right now as I write to you all.

If you’ll excuse me I think I need to give Jin and big hug. While I’m gone, what is your favourite amber fragrance, as a main note or a side one?
Portia xx

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L’Eau De Tarocco EdC by Diptyque 2009

Hiya Sniffers,

I ordered a decant of L’Eau De Tarocco EdC by Olivier Pescheux for Diptyque because the name is SO good. The Water of Tarot. Tarocco is also an Italian blood orange so they are probably talking about this being a citrus water, and yes it is, but there is so much more here.

From the Diptyque site: A fruity Eau de Cologne that is sweet yet vibrant and spicy. It carries the exhilarating scent of the Mediterranean in winter and the freshness of fruit just plucked from the tree, plump and ripe.

Fragrantica gives these accords: Musk, Virginia cedar, saffron, ginger, cinnamon, incense, grapefruit, orange and tincture of rose.

Photo Stolen theproducehunter

WOOO, This starts with the green rind and zest swoosh of blood orange/grapefruit, also spicy and woodsy, but not the warm embrace of Sandalwood this woodsy is like setting up camp in the woods, with the incense, ginger and musk. It all seems to be front and centre in the first 3 minutes except the rose, and I haven’t a clue what saffron smells like. As you look for each note it is already there awaiting notice.

There does come a slight warmth after about 15-20 minutes but it’s like the smell of the white outside left after you have zested the whole orange, and it’s merely overlaid on top of the already extant scents. It may be the rose, which can sometimes have a warm fruity plastic smell (I know that doesn’t make sense but if you have smelled that particular rose facet you’ll never forget it).

The whole fragrance softens off considerably at around the 1.5-2 hour mark in the cool weather. There is still a citrus feel but the cinnamon, ceder and musks seem to take over and give a warmer, mulled quality to the whole, like it’s been basking in the sun and ripened to the point where there is only sweetness in the juice. By 3 hours I’m hunting around for a respritz, even though the fragrance hasn’t completely left my skin. Today at time of finishing writing I have been wearing L’Eau De Tarocco for nearly 5 hours and it’s faint but still discernible.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Diptyque site has 100ml at $98 & 200ml $135 except they DON’T SHIP TO AUSTRALIA!!! Clearly they don’t want my business.
SurrenderToChance does 1ml/$3 or 5ml/$12.60-ish

This is a lovely cologne, not groundbreaking but done very nicely. I could imagine this being suitable for anything from the office, dinner, after gym, date night or cinema.  L’Eau De Tarocco strikes me as refreshing in the warmer months but still completely wearable in the dead of winter here in Sydney. I wanted to buy a FB so I could have a Cologne Bath like BoisDeJasmine was spruking earlier this week. As you can see I tried to go FB but it will have to wait till I can get to a Diptyque counter.

It’s summer in the Northern Hemisphere, what colognes are you wearing and have you tried a Cologne Bath?

Portia xx