Autism: My Love Of Perfume

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Kate Apted

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Hello APJ

Autism is a funny disorder in that it affects each individual with it differently. A common theme is that of sensory processing; in that some senses are heightened in some folk and lessened in others. You will meet autistics who abhor strong smells, including perfumes, and are literally ill around them. Others have a heightened sense of smell and seek olfactory stimulation at any opportunity. I am the latter. I smell , and touch, everything.

Autism: My Love Of Perfume

I have another aspect of my autism that causes me a bit of social confusion. I have hardly any awareness of my emotional state at any given time. Through constant self vigilance, I have learned there are a few general states of being I can recognise; namely, anger, sadness, happiness and illness. I am getting better at recognising signs of slightly more nuanced emotions, like melancholia, grief and contentedness.

Fragrantica

The interesting part of my love of perfumes is that I can readily attribute emotions to scents. It is one way I can more easily identify what state I am in. For instance, if I choose to wear Paloma Picasso, I know that I am feeling assertive, or if I am wearing Safari, I am feeling like a teen. I can get emotionally close to perfumes and colours and music, in ways I cannot with people, or the basic, human part of myself. Whereas I have trouble relating to people, I readily relate to scents.

Fragrantica

I can even go so far as stating that I create relationships with my scents. I get to know them and their personalities. I have a mother scent (Selperniku by January Scent Project), a best friend scent (Queen of Hearts by Queen Latifah), a confidante scent (Apres l’Ondee by Guerlain) and a daughter scent (Chloe Signature by Chloe). I do not talk to my scents as such, but if I am craving the need for a hug, I’ll wear Selperniku. I cannot stand physical touch, so it acts as a virtual, olfactive hug. I get the same sense of comfort others describe hugs as giving.

Fragrantica

Face blindness is another of my quirks. About half the people I meet, or know, I can readily recognise using an aspect of their physicality, such as the sound of their voice, the gap in their teeth, a gangly walk, or a particular cap s/he may wear often. For others, I have to learn their patterns. But one way I can get to know and recognise people is via their scent. Some people have very distinctive smells that I find comforting and reassuring. I can also get to know that person on a more intimate level by judging their health based on how they smell. I know my children are ill long before symptoms become present. They emit an odour particular to certain illnesses. My eldest has a head cold odour and my youngest has a haemophilia odour. It is invaluable to me for I often miss the symptoms for days before I understand my boys are ill. As they have autism as well, communication is not their biggest strength!

In the way that I use glasses to see long distance and my son occasionally uses crutches to walk, my sense of smell is necessary for my functioning in the world. It helps me make sense of the world and find my place in it. I often say I’d rather lose any sense before my ability to smell. I’d be absolutely bereft without being able to understand and interpret the world through olfactory sensory input.

Fragrantica

I think every perfume is more than just a nice smell or a way to promote one’s identity; looking at you Beast Mode alpha males! There is a story behind every scent created and a tale the perfumer wants to tell. Perfume is an art form, as so many of you know. Scents are given as gifts for many reasons, and scent memories are created that transcend wealth, culture and even time! For me, scent goes beyond even that. It is my most fluid form of communication and a tool for me feel grounded in reality. It speaks for me in the way verbal, and often written communication, does not. I wish perfumes would become the Lingua Franca of the world.

Kate X

Golden Oldies: Worn For Life

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Post by Anne-Marie

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Hi all

What is the perfume you have worn the longest in your life?

Golden Oldies: Worn For Life

Chanel No 19 Eau de Parfum Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, bergamot, green notes
Heart: Iris, narcissus, rose, lily of the valley
Base: Sandalwood, leather, vetiver, oakmoss

I’ve worn Chanel No 19 on and off for … ahem … something like thirty years. I don’t know how I could afford it but I bought my first 50ml bottle of the EDT in the mid-80s when I was a student. Between then and 1991 (still a student) I went through that bottle and bought two more. I still have them all; the first completely drained, the latter two are nearly used and rather on the turn now. (Why did I buy a third before the second was drained? I can’t remember.)

In later years I added more bottles of the EDT and EDP to my collection. I still wear it No 19. It’s the perfume I’ve worn the longest, more than half my life.

In those early years I also bought Estée Lauder White Linen, Lancome Magie Noire, Laura Ashley No. 1, and Eau Sauvage (two bottles). Later, after I moved cities, I remember buying Paloma Picasso, Patou Joy, Estee Lauder Pleasures, and Eau de Givenchy. The last was a souvenir of a trip to the UK and Europe in 1996. I bought it in Paris. Squeee!

golden-oldies-trialsanderrors-tour-eiffel-exposition-universelle-paris-france-1889-flickrFlickr

This was all before I had started having children in 1998, and ceased spending money on perfume for several years.

I don’t wear any of those regularly any more. I’ve moved on from the Lauders, as you do. Paloma Picasso has some sad memories. Magie Noire I wear occasionally still. Joy I never really liked and still don’t. I bought it to celebrate the fact that I could actually afford a perfume once touted as ‘the most costly perfume in the world’. By 1993 it wasn’t, but I loved the idea of it. Eau de Givenchy has to compete every summer with a clutch of other eaux, though it is still the best of the bunch probably.

eau-de-givenchy-givenchy-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Grapefruit, mandarin, bergamot, mint, red fruit
Heart: Ylang-ylang, honeysuckle, pure jasmine, narcissus, tuberose, lily-of-the-valley, rose, cyclamen, orris root
Base: Sandalwood, musk, cedar, oakmoss

Anyway – I’m wondering what is the perfume you have worn the longest, and which you still wear? What is the perfume to which you keep returning, no matter how many other perfumed paths you have explored?

Does this long-standing choice suggest something fundamental and abiding about your taste? Note, for instance, that my early perfume collection contained no gourmands, and no orientals except Magie Noire which is part-chypre anyway. Note also that I skipped the marine/ozonic perfumes of the 90s altogether. Thank God. I’d rather squirt L’Eau d’Issey in my eye than wear it on skin.
Or, have you completely left behind all your early perfume explorations and discarded those early, embarrassing bottles?

I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Until next time, keep spritzing everyone!
AM

Celebuscents I Don’t Hate

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Fragrance Lovers,

Celebuscents have been a bone of contention among perfumistas for years. While most of them are dross put out by the big fragrance conglomerates with little or no reference and involvement from the celebrities themselves surprisingly some of them have turned out to be quite good, wearable, viable options. Even some celebrities that I loathe have put out one frag that I like, even though I refuse to purchase on ethical grounds. Startlingly, some of the celebrities that I have long adored have put out shit that I wouldn’t clean a toilet with. So I thought a list of some of my favourite celebuscents may help you wade through the incredible amounts out there. Yes, there are a few that make everybodies list but others seem to have flown beneath the radar.

Celebuscents I Don’t Hate

Dita Von Teese FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Dita Von Teese: The original Dita Von Teese is a fun rose/white floral in the radiant style. Sheer and very wearable. I went through one of the 20ml flacons in no time. You can get the shower gel and body lotions for next to nothing at the discounters.

Black Pearls Elizabeth Taylor FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls: Still in the top ten sellers of celebuscents each year Elizabeth Taylor’s range is big. My favourite is the very 1980s peach, amber and woodsy flamboyance of Black Pearls. This one will announce your arrival a few feet ahead of you.

L Gwen Stefani FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Gwen Stefani L: I wore this fragrance in a big way for a while but it started giving me headaches. It’s a pear & peach powerhouse done in radiant style and has very tenacious longevity. Nowadays if I want to wear it I spritz my lower back and knees.

Halle Halle Berry FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Halle Berry Halle: A very glamorous floriental with a hint of fig that becomes the warmest, silkiest amber. This could easily dupe some of the expensive niche ambers and lasting power is excellent. It’s not groundbreaking or challenging but Halle smells really good.

Jennifer Aniston Jennifer Aniston ParfumoPhoto Stolen Parfumo

Jennifer Aniston: A fresh, aquatic jasmine Jennifer Anniston is pretty, vegetally sweet and a little tropically lush. A bit heftier than most of the radiant fragrances and the flowers are better in waft than nose pressed to skin but as it goes by it’s a definite head turner.

Fancy Nights Jessica Simpson FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Jessica Simpson Fancy Nights: Imagine Shalimar with a triple dose of gooey caramel and more patchouli. It’s rich, intense and has powerful sillage for the first hour. Once Fancy Nights settles it is a rich amber/patch bomb that sits just above your skin for hours.

Truth or Dare Madonna FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Madonna Truth or Dare: BIG WHITE FLORAL along the lines of Fracas but longer lasting and not so far into the bubble gum arena. If you like white flowers with a warm amber base then Truth or Dare, which is basically free, should be on your list.

Niki de Saint Phalle Niki de Saint Phalle FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Niki de Saint Phalle: This is my personal go-to green. The minty and fruity opening is a masterpiece of bittersweet, the iris led floral bouquet through the heart and the softly warmed base of woodsy moss. Perfect.

Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Paloma Picasso: Imagine an animalic, extra cloves, hefty on the oakmoss CHANEL No 5 and you are pretty much on track for this 1980s supernova of a fragrance. Paloma Picasso will announce your arrival.

Lovely Sarah Jessica Parker  FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely: I know, it’s on EVERY list. That’s becausae it’s good. Smells fantastic on everyone. Radiant floral with a super musk and spice motto. Lovely is well named.

Queen by Queen Latifah FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Queen Latifah Queen: Boozy citrus with a soft white flower and a hefty, elegant vanilla base. Lasts forever and smells fantastic. I gift Queen often and it’s become one of my BFF Kath’s faves too.

Special mentions go to Siren and Fairy Dust by Paris Hilton, Queen of Hearts by Queen Latifah, Truth or Dare Naked by Madonna, Cher Uninhibited, Pure Honey by Kim Kardashian, With Love by Hilary Duff, Still by Jennifer Lopez, Covet by SJP, Boyfriend by Kate Walsh, Adam Levine Woman, Our Moment by One Direction and Deneuve by Catherine Deneuve.

Most are still available to try from My Perfume Samples and Surrender To Chance

Go on, which are your favourite celebuscents?
Portia xx

If you hit the link and shop with My Perfume Samples I get a kickback!

First EdP by Van Cleef & Arpels 1976, Winner Announced

Hey Hey Stink Monkeys,

I am a fan of big old fashioned slam your head against the wall floral spectaculars. I know you’re surprised but I felt it was time to come clean with you all and fess up. Here is another of my favourites, a 36 year old banged up whore of a perfume. Once she was a screaming symphony of flowers and funk, filled with civet and oakmoss which unfortunately are both banned nowadays. She has been through many incarnations, getting sleeker and more refined each time, losing that young, nasty, dirty girl as she has grown up. Much like any old sex worker that married well and glossed over a seamier past with elocution lessons, a change of postcode and a better stylist. It’s a pity because I love the memory of what she was but considering how much they can’t put into fragrance these days she is better than she could be. Maybe it’s testament to Jean-Claude Ellena’s genius that it has remained so vibrant and wearable and reminiscent of itself.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

The Fragrantica note list is extraordinary:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin, black currant bud, aldehydes, peach, raspberry
Heart: Hyacinth, Turkish rose, narcissus, jasmine, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, carnation, orchid, tuberose, orris
Base: Amber, tonka bean, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, honey, civet.

First opens with the sparkly fresh fruit and citrus bang that you hope for in a heady aldehydic floral that is an incredibly accurate representation of the sparkle and flash of Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery. I can’t really tell the notes apart in First, I think the wild sensual white flower power is anchored by the yang-ylang, carnation and orris and the orchid amps it all up, still being helped along by the glittering aldehydes. The base has been there all along but you don’t notice until well into the first hour because until then it plays only a filler role, giving the whole its magnificent shape. After about an hour these deeper, and interestingly, sweeter notes and accords waft through in front of the earlier players en mass, leaving us long secret glimpses of what went before as we tumble into dry down hours later. Sometimes I get 6-7 hours and sometimes more, this cool weather currently helps to slow the progression down and its much slower to reach the real base before it’s gone.

Go and check the BoisDeJasmine review and I would have put another but couldn’t find one on the first 4 pages of google that was working.
FragranceNet has a great selection at very reasonable prices.

THURSDAY GIVEAWAY WINNER

Our Thursday Giveaway this week is a fantastic Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum Coffret 50ml EdP (that has had 1 spritz taken by APJ guest blogger EmmaKate who donated it) and a 6.7 oz of Body Lotion valued at RRP $75.

How did you win this week? Only Australian addresses could enter. All you had to do is tell me somewhere that you would like to wear this gorgeous Paloma Picasso fragrance. Easy Peasy!! And the winner is……

SAFFYISHERE

Photo Stolen bitrebels

Please get in touch with your address details by Wednesday August 1 2012 or I’ll give your prize to someone else or maybe keep it for myself, I’m running low. Communication via DM on Twitter (@OzPerfumeJunkie) or FB (Portia Turbo-Gear).

I am leaving you today with a really lovely Van Cleef & Arpels mini movie for Faerie; a gorgeous, forgotten flop that we’ll talk about soon.
Love to you all,
Portia xx

Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum 1984

Hiya Fumies,

Today we are going to look at something I’ve had rattling around my fragrance cupboard on and off for years. I think it has been reformulated three or four times because every time I repurchase it smells slightly different and over time the packaging has changed too. Still with the same central lush 80’s big bang but slightly thinner. Considering though how many fragrances have come and gone since 1984 it is a wonder we can still readily buy Paloma Picasso.

Photo stolen herzmaschine

It is still a heady swirl of high octane powerhouse perfume, for me a cross between Chanel No. 5 and Aromatics Elixer. With a start point of spicy, sharp and sweet amped up by the aldehydes. As we move through the life of the fragrance the base seems to be pumping its dark and sexual tune nearly from the start with almost cameo like appearances from the rest of the notes that pop up and then submerge back into the background, only to do so again when you least expect it. Better than excellent sillage, in fact you will be your own scent cloud, and lasts, lasts and lasts till it smells like a dirty ho is in the next room undressing, then gone.

Photo Stolen perret-optic

Definitely not a close work environment scent unless you are the boss or your crew has a wear as much perfume as you like agreement. If you are wearing it to dinner give it at least 2 hours to breathe before you sit to eat and it will probably skunk the bus in the mornings too. This is a dressed up high heels and gown of a scent but could equally be worn outdoors where there are no perfume restraints. I like to wear it to bed, selfishly and for my own pleasure, while market shopping or cleaning the house with some pop music playing.

Fragrantica gives these notes & accords;
Top: Coriander, aldehydes, angelica and carnation
Heart: Ylang ylang, jasmine and hyacinth
Base: Oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, tobacco, castoreum, civet and musk

Please check BoisDeJasmine and PerfumeShrine for the full story. They also have much more detailed note lists, maybe Fragrantica has the modern incarnations list?

FragranceX has the best selection I could find at reasonable prices, below Gift Coffret only around $60

THURSDAY GIVEAWAY

Our Thursday Giveaway this week is a gift from APJ guest blogger EmmaKate. She was lucky enough to win our prize at an event but the fragrance is way too strong for her to wear comfortably in public. Her loss is your gain because we are giving away this fantastic 50ml EdP (that has had 1 spritz taken by EmmaKate) and a 6.7 oz of Body Lotion. Below you’ll see a similar coffret valued at RRP $75, only the exterior is slightly different on ours.

Photo Stolen 99Perfume

How do you win? For this week only Australian addresses can enter. Sorry world but I can’t afford to send this one OS, it’s expensive! All you have to do is tell me somewhere that you would like to wear this gorgeous Paloma Picasso fragrance. Easy Peasy!!

Entries close by 9pm Saturday July 28 2012 Australian EST and winners will be announced in the Saturday night post. If you are our lucky winner you must get in touch with your address details by Wednesday August 1 2012 or I’ll give your prize to someone else or maybe keep it for myself, I’m running low. Communication via DM on Twitter (@OzPerfumeJunkie) or FB (Portia Turbo-Gear).

Alright gang, Thank You for dropping in and Aussies, GO TO IT!!
Portia xx