Vintage Fragrance Finds: How To Traipse the Treasure Trail

.

Post by Greg Young

.

 

Hi fragrance fans.

Some time ago, I decided to become a fragrance treasure hunter.

One day in a suburban op shop, I noticed a couple of bottles of men’s after-shave on the counter.

 Greg Young OpShopFindDonated by Greg Young

Although not familiar with either, I picked up these two on a whim. When I mentioned my find to some fragrance friends, they went crazy. I concluded that I’d better keep an eye out for perfume in op shops in future!

Treasure Trail Animal_Welfare_charity_shop WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

With op shopping, the joy is in the hunt. Most days you will find nothing, but just occasionally you will spot something that makes your heart leap. That is the adrenaline rush of the big find; it happens very rarely, but it is wonderful when it comes.

The secret is to do a lot of searching. Lee Trevino once said, “The more I practice the luckier I get”; this is very true of op shopping. If I have time to spare and I’m near an op shop, I nearly always take a look. You never know.

Of course Trevino didn’t practice by swinging wildly at a ball. You have to give yourself a chance by being a bit smart: Here are a few tips:

• Ask yourself which localities are likely to have people nearby donating luxury items. It’s not universally true, but well-heeled suburbs are a good place to start.

• Check any locked cabinets in the shop, and the shelves behind the counter, where the upmarket stuff is displayed.

• Most op shops have baskets of soaps and make-up. Find them and check for samples, minis, etc.

• Look for bottles; there may be some that still have a bit of juice left.

• Look for pretty things – fragrances may be put next to such displays.

• When you have a big find, go back a week or so later. That treasure you found may have had some friends out the back.

• Ask the sales attendants if they have any perfume or cologne. They may know what is lurking out the back. It always helps to make friends with the staff.

Treasure Trail  CarBootSale GeographPhoto Stolen Geograph

The same tips apply pretty much to markets. In markets, I tend to look out for:

• Stalls selling bric-a-brac, pretty things, vintage items and so on.

• Stalls being run by young girls who are essentially selling their old stuff. As well as their clothes racks, they will often have celebrity or designer scents

• Stores selling old bottles.

Many of you will be able to recognise bottle shapes instinctively. I once spotted a Bond No 9 bottle from 5 metres away. So always glance around as you wander, and give your subconscious a chance to work.

Check how any scents that you find have been displayed. Buying vintage fragrances that sat in sunlight for hours on end is not likely to end well.

Treasure Trail  antique Skitterphoto PixabayjpgPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Antique shops need a different approach. Be up-front about what you are looking for. They welcome you coming back often, and don’t mind if you don’t buy; they understand that they may not have what you collect. I just tend to go straight up to the counter and ask if they have any vintage perfumes in. That’s normally enough, but I always check the displays anyway, just in case.

So what has this treasure hunting got me? Well, that’s a subject for a whole different article.

Have you any tips for spotting vintage treasures?

Le Galion: The ship sails on….

.

Post by Catherine de Peloux-Menage

.

For the past twenty years, defunct or dying heritage perfume houses have been coming back to life. Les Parfums de Rosine, Lubin, Robert Piguet , Courreges, Orizia Legrand, Schiaparelli, Worth, Houbigant, Jovoy, d’Orsay, Patou in France. Grossmith and Atkinsons, Crown perfumery (as Clive Christian) in the UK. Now it’s the turn of Le Galion.

Coming across an old perfume bottle in a Paris flea market, Nicolas Chabot’s interest was piqued (Le Galion c’est quoi ca?). As a fragrance industry specialist like generations of his family, he thought he knew most French brands. So he tracked down the daughter of former house owner and perfumer Paul Vacher who supported him wholeheartedly in what became his mission to resurrect the house, even giving him access to the Le Galion archive, formulae and original perfumes. Le Galion was relaunched in 2014.

Le Galion: The ship sails on….

As Creative Director, Nicolas worked within the current raw materials restrictions with perfumer Thomas Fontaine (who specialises in reorchestrating perfumes for brands like Lubin, Patou and, Gres) to recreate nine perfumes which best represent Vacher’s work. Vacher created Miss Dior, Diorling, co-created Arpege as well as his own bestsellers like Sortilege or Whip. At his sudden death in 1975, Le Galion was one of the best known French perfume brands, distributed in over 90 countries. Within ten years it had vanished after it was sold to a US company which failed to understand its ethos and place in the market.

Le Galion

The nine relaunched fragrances are in simple, elegant ridged bottles. Not knowing the original Le Galion scents I can’t compare them. (A visit the Osmotheque would be a fascinating exercise.) As always, the scentosphere likes some and dislikes others. Here’s my take (Disclosure: samples are from Nicolas Chabot during a presentation to the Sydney Perfume Lovers).

222 My autumn-winter perfume 2015. Sandalwood, violets, vanilla. Cloudy soft, but with a bite of myrrh and a hint of leather. What’s not to love?

Sortilege Created in 1935, this feels grown up, seductive, half way between No 5 and Joy and with a nice dirty civet-like note. The original must have been stunning.

Tubereuse created 11 years before Fracas is sedate compared to her younger sister. Fruit, rose, musk. Rounded and ladylike.

Iris Delicate and mimosa-powdery, slightly green, woody and lightly musky. Vanishes quickly on my skin but I love it so will be wearing it on fabric to feel feminine and elegant.

Special for Gentlemen Bergamot, Lavender, oppoponax and patchouli, shades of Jicky and Shalimar but also of Habit Rouge morphing into the cologne feel of Eau Sauvage. Extraordinary, powerful. Wear it.

Rose – a delicate, pretty, slightly fruity morning rose. No thorns. Lovely.

Snob Saffron almond opening interlaced with rich deep rose. Could this be one of the first rose-saffron scents?

Whip You can feel the sting of the leather long after the sharp hit of citrus has worn off. Hit me again.

Eau Noble citrus fougere –green citrus elegance with a chypre twist.

sortilege Le GalionPhoto Stolen Le Galion

Further reading: Ca Fleure Bon and Colognoisseur
First In Fragrance has the Le Galion range €140/100ml

Have you tried any of these? Any favourites yet?
Catherine de Peloux-Menage xx

Debaser by David Moltz for D.S. & Durga 2015

Hey Hey APJ,

I regularly look through the Recent Releases at Surrender To Chance because Australia doesn’t get most of it. Already we have had quite a few releases this year. Recently I grabbed a few so I want to take a look at a couple of them this week. Let’s start with a company that I am often interested in but rarely try and also rarely read about on the blogs I frequent.

Debaser by David Moltz for D.S. & Durga 2015

Debaser D.S. & Durga FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Fig, iris, coconut milk, tonka bean, white woods

Surrender To Chance & D.S. & Durga give these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, green leaf, pear stem
Heart: Fig, coconut milk, iris
Base: Blond woods, tonka bean, moss

It was the STC note list that spurred me towards Debaser. Pear stem? Fig, coconut, iris & moss? Though I’ve no idea how the stem of a pear smells I love the other four notes mentioned and even the surrounding stuff reads really good. Then, as I started reading further about the fragrance I learned that “The wild shrill of Black Francis coming through the radio in the August heat” was an inspiration. So Charles Michael Kittridge Thompson IV who performs as Black Francis is frontman for influential alt rock band The Pixies, and the have a song called The Debaser. The idea for this song came from a short silent surrealist film, Un Chien Andalou (An Andalusian Dog), which was a collaboration between Spanish director Luis Buñuel and artist Salvador Dalí in 1929.

Debaser D.S. & Durga Un Chien Andalou WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

A woody fig scent, or the idea of fig in a perfumers dream, dry and juicy at the same time, sweet and savoury too. The idea is interesting and appealing with the yummy image in my mouth of sweet soft cheese and fig. The dryness seems to win as we move into the fragrance and there is a hint of walking past a newly painted room while eating fig. I wore this to the movies last night and all through the film I caught whiffs of fig jam and suntan lotion. The coconut becomes more apparent through the heart and I get a fun beachy feel that softens out to clean, very lightly sweet, woods.

Having now read a bunch of other reviews I find that everyone is having completely different experiences and memory triggers from Debaser, truly surreal.

Debaser D.S. & Durga Illumined_Pleasure Salvador_Dali WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Debaser is a wonderfully thick fragrance for the first hour and then it slides slowly into a background hum that lasts and lasts, next morning I can still smell a soft woodsiness with a whisper of sweet figgy jam overtones. After the first hour I think Debaser would even be wearable as an office scent, not that its terribly quiet but there is something quite engaging about it, I can think of no better word than amiable.

Further reading: Colognoisseur and Scented Hound
LuckyScent has $145/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4.50/.5ml

I think you need to try Debaser for yourself. Hopefully you will have a different experience that you can share with us.
Have you tried any of the DS & Durga frags?
Portia xx

Gentlewoman by Juliette Has A Gun

Hi Crew,

Having spent some time with the dashing Romano Ricci recently we were introduced to his latest offering, Gentlewoman. One of the things I really liked about meeting Romano Ricci was something that he said, he told us that while he created the fragrances he would often go and seek the help of other perfumers to bring his idea to completion. That kind of open honesty is both refreshing and virtually unheard of in this industry, he won me over in that moment. The fact that he was extremely handsome and an outrageous flirt had nothing to do with it at all….

Gentlewoman by Romano Ricci for Juliette Has A Gun 2015

Gentlewoman Juliette Has A Gun FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, bitter orange blossom, neroli
Heart: Almond, courmarin, orange blossom, lavender
Base: Ambroxan, woody notes, musk

The humble cologne. So invigorating and refreshing. A hallmark of perfumery and still people are finding new ways to improve the genre.

Imagine citrus. All the parts of citrus. Tree, leaves, flowers, zest, pith, juice and body are all part of what makes me think citrus. It seems that Romano has wanted to show all facets of the citrus in one fragrance and not only to do that but then to add some almond in for good measure to mellow, buff and lactonate* what is mainly citrus.

Yes, we have lavender, also courmarin and super cuddly musks (Clayton knows the names of the molecules). Here we have a same same but different cologne. Firstly it LASTS for hours. One of my main problems with Eau de Cologne as a genre is having to tote around a 500ml bottle to respritz every 25 minutes. Secondly, we have a really interesting and enjoyable development that also has this divine almond note that makes the whole heart smell like an almond bread with zest! YUMMY! A dry yummy and not really a gourmand, except of course that it is strictly speaking gourmand.

What do I know? Don’t you want to try this hot little mother for yourself? See below…..

Further reading: Ca Fleure Bon
First In Fragrance has €99/50ml (Available from mid May)
Libertine Parfumerie has AUD$205/100ml (In Stock Now! Including FREE Australian Postage!)

Good luck all,
Portia xx

Save From YouTube giveaway 4Photo Stolen YouTube

Gentlewoman GIVEAWAY!

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x decant Gentlewoman by Juliette Has A Gun (from my Press bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please comment with any reason you could be called a Gentleman or Gentlewoman

Extra Chance?
Tweet:  Gentlewoman: Juliette Has A Gun  http://wp.me/p3PURw-3KA   

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 2nd April 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 9th April 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

lactonate: Yet again I have invented a word that means, in my head, adding a milky touch

Reckless: GIVEAWAY WINNERS!

WOW APJ,

You guys really wanted to try the Roja Dove!! I’m so excited that you all got involved. Your stories of favourite old fragrances and who used to wear them had me smiling while reading. Thanks for sharing,

Portia x

Reckless: GIVEAWAY WINNERS!

Reckless Roja Dove FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, citruses, aldehydes, tarragon
Heart: Amaryllis, jasmine, violet, geranium, ylang-ylang, rose, peach
Base: Vetiver, musk, sandalwood, oak moss, clove, cinnamon, tonka bean, orris root, castoreum, leather

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x decant of Roja Dove’s Reckless (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell me about your favourite fragrance from the long past glory of perfumery.

Extra Chance?
Tweet:  Roja Dove: Reckless    

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 29th March 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

winners propercoursePhoto Stolen propercourse

JackieB

Monomatomic

Damir Gašljević (via Twitter)

CONGRATULATIONS!! The winners will have till Thursday 2nd April 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Top 10 Spring/Autumn Fragrances 2015 Perfume Reviews

Hello Gorgeous APJ Family,

It’s Top 10 Spring/Autumn Fragrances time again, my favourite seasons are Autumn and Spring, the mid seasons. I love that in both these seasons the weather can be remarkably similar, sunny and warm on one day, freezing or blustery on another, nights are cool to cold and so the overall wearings are quite similar. These fragrances are on my desk and within easy spritz reach and they only stay on the desk while they are getting regular spritz time, if they’ve been sitting there for more than a few days without attention they go back in the cupboard.

Top 10 Spring:Autumn Fragrances mrhayata FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Top 10 Spring:Autumn Fragrances PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Top 10 Spring/Autumn Fragrances 2015 Perfume Reviews

Futur* – Robert Piguet: The ungreenest green ever. Sappy, sweet, green and extremely wearable all year round. Futur has been out of the cupboard and on my skin quite a bit lately and it fits any occasion.

Liberte* – Cacharel: A screaming, sizzling, BarBQ’d orange that is so sugary and ends up in a vanilla/patchouli/orange finale. I’ve loved it for years and now that it seems to be discontinued I’ve had to grab a couple of back up bottles.

Shalimar EdP* + Parfum – Guerlain: My old faithful. Shalimar fits every season, every mood and every event. From it’s citrus gelato opening to the resinous, vanilla and leather dry down I love Shalimar through and through. If I had to pick a fragrance to be my one and only Shalimar would be it.

CHANEL No 22: Yes, it’s the modern EdT. I bought it in NYC on our trip and that aldehydic zwoosh is too fabulous for words. Lasts all day, smells incredible and I feel like a million dollars from spritz to shower.

Mitzah – DIOR Prive: For those cooler nights Mitzah. Sweet, spicy, animal roses that feel like they have a whisper of oud in with the patchouli. Warm and sensual but cool enough to wear all year.

Neroli & Orchidee – L’Occitane: Another great L’Occitane cheap and cheerful fragrance! Spring has definitely sprung. I have been loving it sick but the final stamp of approval was given by Willa Zheng on Friday, she totally agrees and I trust her nose completely.

Niki de Saint Phalle: I can’t stop spritzing this glamorous green. Bright, fun and energetic. Niki de Saint Phalle is take charge with a twinkle in your eye. I think it’s the mint in the opening contrasting with the fruit and galbanum, gets me every time.

Nirvana Black by Elizabeth & James: Warm sandalwoodsy vanilla. Great price, excellent packaging. Wear this shit everywhere.

Pichola – Neela Vermeire Creations: The softest, most complex and wonderful tuberose. Surrounded by other notes and accords but it is the tuberose, sheer and clean, shorn of all its intimate, breathy and shitty bits we are left with the clearest, green herbs and spice overlaid tuberose. Beautiful, wearable and a complete divergence for the line while maintaining so many of the things I love.

Un Jardin Apres la Mousson by Hermes: That thick oily, wet, sweet, herbaceous freak of a fragrance. I find it addictive and love to lose myself in its heavy sheer wafts.

There are my current mid-season Top 10. They will probably be changed by next week but right now these ten fragrances are getting good skin time and working extremely well in the changeable conditions that the mid-seasons hand us.

What are you wearing right now? Give me a Top 3 if you’ve got one…..

Loads of love to you all, wherever and in what ever weather,
Portia x

The roses of Heliogabalus oil on canvas 132.7 x 214.4 cmPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

* Second year in the Top 10

L'Heure Convoiteé II by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier 2011

Hi there Fragrance Fiends,

Every time I wear this beauty I am transported to Prague in winter where I bought it with Jin. You would think it a summer only fragrance but it was wonderful in the super cold too. For some reason I never got to Prague when I lived in London in the 1990s, even though my mates would go there often, it was always on the bucket list and going there with Jin made it extra special. Even if L’Heure Convoiteé II smelled like shit, which it most definitely does not, I would still love it for the memories it conjures.

L’Heure Convoiteé II by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier 2011

Les Heures de Cartier

L'Heure Convoiteé II Cartier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Carnation, iris, powdery notes

Cool, stark, crystaline and beautiful. The opening of L’Heure Convoiteé II would be the perfect fragrance for the cold girl from Frozen, ever since I saw the film every time I spritz the song Let It Go runs through my head. People compare it to Bellodgia by Caron and while they are cousins L’Heure Convoiteé II is cooler, less spicy and hot. They are carnations done in opposite directions for me, Bellodgia is thick, rich and nuanced with warmth and spice burning fiercely inside but L’Heure Convoiteé II is stark, linear, sharp and poised, a crystal Queen on the outside that becomes less intimidating as she makes her way through the story.

L'Heure Convoiteé II Cartier Prague_charles_bridge WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Clove holds the heart of L’Heure Convoiteé II, clove and iris sharp and earthy, an interesting dichotomy and though it’s not mentioned I think the musk is a lot of what feels fluffy but not human, clean and clear like an washing machine with a brand new rug thrown in for its welcome wash before you add detergents. L’Heure Convoiteé II is the clean lines of modern buildings like Howard Roark’s designs in the Fountainhead or the Brutalist beauty of the Seidler House in Sydney.

L'Heure Convoiteé II Cartier  Seidler House Killara ModernHeritagePhoto Stolen ModernHeritage (Problem using this image, please get in touch)

The clove becomes woodsy towards the end of the L’Heure Convoiteé II ride and the rest of the notes give me a lovely spicy rose weaving through. Still cool and very classy but more welcoming, is there some very dry pepper hiding here? Oooh I like it, I think I’ll respritz and live it all again.

Further reading: Grain de Musc and Olfactoria’s Travels
Cartier stores and some large Department Stores have Les Heures de Cartier
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/.5ml

Do you like the Cartier Hours Collection? Have you tried any? What about other Cartier frags?
Portia xx

 

Reckless: Roja Dove 2011

Hi Y’all,

A perfume angel sent me this from NYC. I am as flabbergasted as you are. I thought, “What better way to celebrate than do a GIVEAWAY!” I have deliberately not really reviewed what happens through the fragrances life because I want you to experience it first hand, I will say though that it does smell like money……. lots of money

Reckless: Roja Dove 2011

Reckless Roja Dove FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, citruses, aldehydes, tarragon
Heart: Amaryllis, jasmine, violet, geranium, ylang-ylang, rose, peach
Base: Vetiver, musk, sandalwood, oak moss, clove, cinnamon, tonka bean, orris root, castoreum, leather

Roja Dove says at First In Fragrance: Sweet, sparkling, fresh, warm, dry, spicy & sensual
“While reading a book, I saw a woman described as ‘reckless maybe – foolish never’. I imagined how that woman would be: she was a woman who followed her heart, but was no one’s fool. I imagined her in the half-light, wearing a diamond necklace. Her world would be one of uncompromising luxury – her scent reflected her, she smelt expensive. She always got what she wanted; often taking risks to get it”.

I am surprised how much I’m enjoying it. There are reminders of other fragrances but they are done with what feels like reverence. To be honest I thought it would be much less lovely……

Very much in the styles of No 5, Joy and Arpege though I am currently wearing it on one hand and Mitsouko PdT on the other. Mitsouko is so gorgeously abrasive by comparison. Never has she seemed so green and arch to me. While Reckless is the balmy, warm and soapy, very genteel lady sitting primly in cashmere, with her knees pressed very firmly together and wearing very large baroque pearls. After Reckless has had her third dirty martini though………

Further reading: Persolaise
First In Fragrance €325/50ml (usually €395: special offer) + Samples

Go On, join in the fun.
Portia xx

giveaway kbairdPhoto Stolen kbaird

Reckless: GIVEAWAY!

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x decant of Roja Dove’s Reckless (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell me about your favourite fragrance from the long past glory of perfumery.

Extra Chance?
Tweet:  Roja Dove: Reckless    

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 29th March 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 2nd April 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Art and Olfaction Awards 2015

Woo Hoo! Exciting times! The second annual Art & Olfaction Awards has announced its nominees for 2015. I feel so naughty, haven’t sniffed them all yet. Must get onto that immediately.

Have a look through and tell me what you think of their choices.

Portia xx

Institute for Art and Olfaction AWARDS LOGO

Art and Olfaction Awards 2015

PRESS RELEASE

MILAN— The Institute for Art and Olfaction is pleased to announce the finalists for the second annual Art and Olfaction Awards, to be held at the Goethe-Institut in Los Angeles on April 17, 2015.

Two winners will be selected from the categories Artisan and Independent, and one Sadakichi Award for Experimental Scent, a new category added for the 2015 Awards. Each winner will receive The Golden Pear, which has quickly become a prestigious achievement in the perfume world.

The finalists were selected by a group of highly qualified judges from the perfume, art and other industries. The artisan and independent category submissions were judged blindly, presented in generic vials and tracked by a numerical code. The preliminary round judges selected the finalists, and the finalist round judges select the winners.

cropped-weblogonotagline_hero

INDEPENDENT & ARTISAN CATEGORIES

Preliminary Judges
Ashley Eden Kessler, Brent Leonesio, Daniel Krasofski, Hank Jenkins, James McHugh, Laura Johnson, Neal Harris, Persephenie, Steven Gontarski, Sherri Sebastian, Yvettra Grantham

INDEPENDENT & ARTISAN CATEGORIES

Finalist Judges
Luca Turin, Mandy Aftel, Miriam Vareldzis, Sarah Horowitz-Thran, Sebastian Fischenich

SADAKICHI AWARD FOR EXPERIMENTAL SCENT PROJECTS

Allison Agsten, Bettina Hubby, Dr. Kóan Jeff Baysa, Marcos Lutyens, Mark Allen

cropped-weblogonotagline_hero

ARTISAN CATEGORY FINALISTS

A City on Fire, by Imaginary Authors
Perfumer: Josh Meyer Portland, USA

Eau de Céleri by Monsillage
Perfumer: Isabelle Michaud Montréal, Canada

Foxglove by DS & Durga
Perfumers: David Seth Moltz + Kavi Moltz New York, USA

Tobacco Cognac by House of Cherry Bomb Perfumers: Alexis Karl + Maria McElroy New York, USA

Woodcut by Olympic Orchids Perfumer: Ellen Covey Seattle, USA

INDEPENDENT CATEGORY FINALISTS

Ombre Indigo by Olfactive Studio
Perfumer: Mylène Alran Paris, France

Boccanera by OrtoParisi
Perfumer: Allessandro Guialtieri Amsterdam, Holland

Pashay by Ray Matts
Perfumer: Christophe Laudamiel New York, USA

Black Pepper & Sandalwood by Acca Kappa Perfumer: Luca Maffei
Treviso, Italy

Skive by Canoe
Perfumer: Jessica Hannah Austin, USA

SADAKICHI AWARD FINALISTS

Catalin
Team: Charles Long, Carrie Paterson, Karen Reitzel, Seth Hawkins, Emery Martin, Michael Mascha
The Contemporary Austin, USA

Chroma
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Denver Art Museum, USA

Crime and Punishment
Team: Mike McGinley, Charles McGinley, Noah Bremer, Ben Heywood
Minnesota Fringe Festival, USA

Famous Deaths
Team: Marcel van Brakel, Frederik Duerinck, Wander Eikelboom, Caro Verbeek
MOTI, Holland

In Libro De Tenebris
Paul Schütze
Maggs Gallery, England

AWARDS CEREMONY
Invitation Only
Friday, April 17, 2015, 7 p.m.
Goethe-Institut: 5750 Wilshire Blvd. Ste. 100, Los Angeles, CA 90036
Cocktail attire is highly encouraged.

AFTERPARTY
Public with limited attendance.
Register: http://aoafterparty.eventbrite.com
Friday, April 17, 2015 10:30 p.m. (following the award ceremony)
The Institute for Art & Olfaction: 3023 W. 6th St., Los Angeles, CA. 90020

Sublime by Jean Kerleo for Jean Patou 1992

.

Post by FeralJasmine

.

Sublime Spring

There is no part of the transition from winter to spring that fails to interest and even enthrall me. Gardeners are generally beguiled by this season, and I am no exception. The birds are singing, the earth is awakening, Persephone is rising, and life stirs all around us.

In earliest spring I enjoy delicate, effervescent florals, but then the days get warmer and the daffodils bloom, and I develop a taste for divas who stand at center stage and defy winter to show its haggard face again. Sublime by Jean Patou is just such a scent. I will be writing only about the original release in the lobed bottle with a cap shaped rather like a tulip. I’ve never smelled the reformulation.

Sublime by Jean Kerleo for Jean Patou 1992

Sublime Jean Patou fragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, tangerine, coriander, green accords
Heart: Rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli oil
Base: Vanilla, sandalwood, cedar, civet

Jean Patou gives these featured accords:
Envolée: Bergamote, Mandarine, Orange, Ylang Ylang
Plénitude: Rose, Jasmin, Muguet, Fleur d’Oranger
Sillage: Vanille de Madagascar, Ambre, Santal

So what flowers lurk in this bold concoction? Jasmine, rose, ylang, and neroli are the official heart notes, but I smell narcissus in there too, and I’m not alone. A commenter on Fragrantica mentions the narcissus note, although other commenters don’t. My overall impressions of this scent are warm, sweet, and yellow. Imagine a double daffodil opening in the morning sun, and you have some idea of the quality of this perfume. And like so many flowers in the Narcissus family, it can be a bit much at close range. Even on my perfume consuming skin, this one has to be sprayed with some caution, at least 30 minutes before I leave the house. However, the warnings that I see on fragrance boards here and there that this scent is “rank” and “civet-y” are, to my mind, not worth paying attention to. There is a touch of civet but it is subtle. Refined, even. The drydown is long, sweet, warm, and powdery.

Sublime Jean Patou-jean-patou-1944-rene-gruau-fashion-illustration-hprints-comPhoto Stolen HPrints (Problem using image, get in touch please)

It was released in 1992, and in some ways partakes of the qualities of the 1980s bombs, toned down just a bit for the next decade’s sensibilities. But it remains lavish, and there is definitely a time and place for lavish.

Further reading: Non Blonde and I Smell Therefore I Am
FragranceNet has $66/50ml (old packaging)
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

I’d love to hear about your experiences with the house of Patou, or tell me your favorite floral bomb.
FeralJasmine XXX