Kashan Rose by Emilie Coppermann for The Different Company 2013

Hi there Frag Fiends,

One of the companies in the fragrance world that I really love is The Different Company. I bought some of their 10ml travelers from Zsolt at Le Parfum in Budapest in 2013, and then dropped my Oriental Lounge in the Thai First Class Lounge Shower Room in Bangkok early 2014 (I know, what an asshole I am) but the lounge never smelled better. I still wear Sel & Vetiver regularly and will one day own a FB of Tokyo Bloom. There never seems to be a lot of reviews for The Different Company, they fall through the cracks. Well, I just grabbed Kashan Rose from Surrender To Chance and I think you should know about it, a very reasonable price for 100ml of top quality niche fragrance.

Kashan Rose by The Different Company 2013

Kâshân Rose by Emilie (Bevierre) Coppermann

Kashan Rose Different Company FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Sage, litchi, pink pepper, cardamom
Hearet: Persian rose, hawthorn, peony
Base: Ambrette, sandalwood, musk

Pink pepper done beautifully. A sweet, wet fruity opening that is made interesting and unusual with what I think is a nod to sage & cardamom but really just reads as a herbaceous green-ness to me. It offsets a very realistic fresh litchi, just peeled from its cocoon. Transparent fragrance, like a shimmering fine silk sari, wraps me delicately but I am still obviously fragrant.

Kashan Rose Different Company kashan rose festival IranReviewPhoto Stolen IranReview

Luminous, that is the word that comes to my mind while wearing Kashan Rose. The colour of the juice is almost exactly the colour you would expect it to be. A fresh pink, light, bright, bubbly and effervescent. The rose when it arrives is a soft garden rose, light and cool and softly green like a fresh cut, not too fragrant garden rose. Very pretty, though a bit sheer for my taste. I can imagine Kashan Rose becoming a favourite work scent, or a first scent for a young woman. The mother of two next door would swoon for Kashan Rose, I will give her my decant and she will drain it in a week. Like the picture above, the rose petals are floating on air. A whispered swish of fragrance that is subtle but noticeable, especially up close.

Tonight I wore Kashan Rose to work and though no one commented I did get soft wafts through the night and now that I’m home I can still smell what I think must be hawthorn and some lovely musks, there may be sandalwood but I don’t get it prominently. Yes, even at the 6 hour mark there is still some fresh rose.

The nitty gritty, will I buy a bottle? Though I really like Kashan Rose very much the answer is “probably” not for me. Why? Well, I have a LOT of rose fragrances from Red Roses to Mohur, Diabolo Rose to Sa Majeste la Rose and on to Midnight Oud. That’s just off the top of my head. This sheer, transparent rose seems too prim for my flamboyant tastes. I will be buying Kashan Rose for friends though. It’s a great price, wonderful scent and the packaging is super luxe. They will be thrilled to have something so unavailable here in Oz.

Kashan Rose Different Company Persepolis001 WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

First In Fragrance has €90/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

I am leaving you with a 35 second video of the Kashan Rose & Rosewater Festival 15-31 May each year. This is something I would DEARLY love to do.
Portia xx

Rose & Rosewater Festival, Kashan

AROMANTIK: Australian Natural Perfume reviews

Hi there APJ,

Recently we talked on APJ about a sampler from an Australian Natural Perfumery: AROMANTIK. So I am still loving AROMANTIK oils. They are earthy, deep, interesting and beautiful and I am incredibly impressed wit their smooth rounded fullness. After 5 minutes on your skin they could be from the very best niche house, here is an Australian small batch independent perfumer to be proud of.

Aromantik logo

AROMANTIK: Australian Natural Perfume

The site doesn’t have a lot of EdP choice as Sally seems to prefer to work in oils. I am trying today two of the EdP versions. From the AROMANTIK site: Natural eau de parfum in a base of water, alcohol & glycerine. A gentler alternative to a straight alcohol base.

AROMANTIK Dark Side Of The Spoon ron brinkmann FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

AROMANTIK: Dark Side Of The Spoon EdP

Key notes:
Vanilla bean, roasted coffee beans, maple syrup, caramelised butter, immortelle absolute, spice.

On my skin maple syrup is the opening, hot butter and spices. Imagine that you’ve put maple syrup on raisin toast and you are drinking a mocha. The taste in your mouth as they combine would most closely resemble what I get from Dark Side Of The Spoon. As this lovely open subsides I get toffee, caramels and sweets. A gourmand that is still dry enough to be wearable as a fragrance, not a joke. Later the resins really smooth the whole fragrance out and Dark Side Of The Spoon has excellent staying power.

AROMANTIK Strangers In Blood blood_orange Brianna Lehman WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

AROMANTIK: Strangers In Blood EdP

Key Notes:
Italian blood orange, coriander seed, Madagascan vanilla orchid, roasted brazilian coffee beans, certified organic Haitian vetiver, campfire smoke

BarBQ orange, Jaffa cake, dry and sweet, dark and light. Strangers In Blood is a story of contrasts, a very natural smelling story that is the least like a store bought fragrance that I have smelled from the AROMANTIK range. Obviously a natural product that is so dark and nuanced and feral while still managing to remain light as a feather. Interestingly it takes nearly 20 minutes for the orange to really shine through the rest, once it does you will fall madly in love with this dark gem. Then the earthy, woodsy vetiver takes blood orange for a waltz. (Whoever wins this I have used about 2ml from the bottle, LOVE IT)

From the AROMANTIK site: AROMANTIK is a natural perfume studio started in 2010 by independent natural perfumer & designer Sally Woodward-Hawes. All of our products are hand-blended in small batches using only the finest natural essential oils, resins & absolutes sourced from all over the world. Sally is a professional perfumer with the Natural Perfumers Guild – the world’s largest trade association dedicated to natural fragrance.

AROMANTIK has natural perfume oils $50/5ml roller ball
AROMANTIK also has a Sample Pack $49/7 x 1ml samples
There are 7 fragrances in the sampler and previously I wrote about The Blossom Thief and Love & Strife on APJ.

Please go and have a look at the AROMANTIK site, they are a very small business trying to make it in a tough world and would certainly appreciate your business.
Portia xx

giveaway TheTruthAboutMummyPhoto Stolen TheTruthAboutMummy

AROMANTIK GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 Winners who will get:

1 x 15ml(?) spray sample bottle of AROMANTIK Strangers In Blood EdP (-2ml I have used)

OR

1 x 15ml(?) spray sample bottle of AROMANTIK Dark Side Of The Spoon EdP

OR

AROMANTIK Natural Perfume Oil Sampler with 7 x 1ml samples

P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Go to AROMANTIK Site<<JUMP and tell me a Fragrance and one of its notes…….. NO DOUBLE UPS

Extra Chance?
Tweet: APJ AROMANTIK Natural Perfume GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-369  

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 24th August 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 28th August 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Sensei by Piotr Czarnecki 2013

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Post by Erica Golding

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Hello, my finely fragranced friends!

I want to share a scent experience that pierced my heart with true love’s fiery arrow. Of all the aromas that I have fallen for in my many years exploring, learning, and collecting, this creation may be my favorite of all time. I don’t make this statement lightly – it is my declaration of devotion to a work of sensory art. My passion, my power, my spirit:

Sensei by Piotr Czarnecki 2013

Sensei Piotr Czarnecki FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Whiskey, coffee, tobacco
Heart: Incense, myrrh, spicy notes
Base: Ambrette (musk mallow), labdanum, amber and musk

The fragrance opens with a thunderous symphony of precious woods, rich coffee, intense spices, fine tobacco, and full-bodied whiskey. Once the essences meld with skin and chemistry, resinous incense notes, amber, and a subtle swirl of vanilla round out the masterpiece. Each note yields to the next, balanced perfectly and equally, allowing me to either focus on a single element or allow the entirety of the creation to reverberate harmoniously.The aroma is woody, spicy, and vibrates with life, vigor, and purpose.

Sensei Piotr Czarnecki whiskey PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Sensei doesn’t need a hype train, it stands on its own by merit of the exquisitely moving fragrance alone. Handmade in small batches, the genuine emotion that breathes life into Sensei is palpable. I would classify this scent as masculine, but only on a superficial level. Rather than requiring an exceptionally strong and confident soul to “pull it off,” Sensei somehow possesses the ability to draw forth the strength and poise of the wearer instead of demanding it. When I anoint my skin with this cherished treasure, I breathe deeply and stand straighter. I carry myself throughout the day with a peaceful invincibility, harmonizing with my fragrance’s serene energy.

Sensei Piotr Czarnecki Incense J Aaron Farr FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Some may classify Sensei as a winter scent, and understandably so; but I met Sensei in the blazing heat of the glowing summer sun, and my associations with it are solar, radiant, and powerfully joyful. Wearlength on me is variable, depending on whether my skin is moisturized and how much I apply, but I get about 5-7 hours. Interestingly enough, the longevity of Sensei is not dependent on the concentration of the scent that I choose. Personally, I find that the Eau de Toilette allows the vanilla to come forth a little more; the Eau de Parfum highlights the smooth tobacco; and the Extrait is all about the spice blend. Sensei comes in a triple-chambered glass bottle, offering each of the concentrates in a singular, cohesive presentation.

Further reading: Kafkaesque
LuckyScent has $160/3 x 33ml

Sensei is pure pleasure for me and I hope that you have enjoyed my impressions of this composition!
Erica Golding

Gucci Envy by Maurice Roucel for GUCCI 1997

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Post by ElizaD

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An Old Friend

I don’t know about you, but sometimes my senses get worn out from trying new things. After my post about linden perfumes I ordered Zeta by Andy Tauer, and of course had to get three other Tauer samples so I could fill that cute little shipping tin. It just seemed wrong to get only one to try. Ten days later my vanity was strewn with little vials, and my nose was starting to itch.

First I took a vacation, during which the only fragrance I wore was a sultry mix of Coppertone SPF 50, sea salt and my own skin warmed by the sun, but when I returned home, I stowed all the samples back in their tin and pulled out my old friend, one of the few perfumes of which I own a whole bottle…or about a third of one now.

It’s crisp, it’s light, cool mornings, warm days, and mellow nights, flip flops and hair in a pony tail. I love to spray it behind my knees and let it extend my summer even after I have returned to work. It’s so simple, and sadly, discontinued.

Gucci Envy by Maurice Roucel for GUCCI 1997

GUCCI Envy Gucci FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, peaches, freesia, magnolia, pineapple
Heart: Lily of the valley, hyacinth, jasmine, violet, hyacinth, rose
Base: Cedar, oakmoss, musk, sandalwood.

With all those notes, you’d think it would be a big hot mess, but Envy is really quite easy to wear.

On first spray, the bergamot and peaches perk up my senses, and I am reminded of another favorite, the original Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld. In fact, these two perfumes evoke the same late summer floral and fruit fest, but Envy is less likely to offend at work—some day I will just spritz a heady perfume with abandon, but that is a thought for another post. Eventually the top notes are joined by the flowers and then the whole thing warms on my very cool, dry skin. The top and heart notes never fade completely, but are wonderfully mellowed by the oakmoss and sandalwood. It’s this last stage that makes Envy so fun to wear…it helps me growl.

GUCCI Envy Gucci  tiger_eye annemaria48 DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

Longevity is great on me. As for sillage, honestly, I can never tell how far I project my perfume. No one has ever gone running out of the room when I enter, and people don’t generally comment on what I am wearing. But then again, I don’t wear perfume for other people, I wear it for me, so if I can smell it, I am likely to say that sillage is pretty good.

Some day I will open my perfume cabinet, and that long slender bottle with the missing cap will be empty of its green tinted juice. That will be a sad day. For now, I will just enjoy this lovely thing and be grateful for those of us capable of making liquid art.

GUCCI Envy Gucci Glass Art WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Perfume Posse
FragranceNet has $55/30ml before coupon
Surrender To Chance have samples starting at $3/ml

Do you have any perfumes that have been discontinued? Do you search for replacements, or just celebrate that you knew them and move on?

ElizaD

Or du Serail by Bertrand Duchaufour for Naomi Goodsir 2014

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Or du Serail by Bertrand Duchaufour for Naomi Goodsir 2014

Or du Serail Naomi Goodsir FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Apple, red berries, mango, sweet orange
Heart: Rum, artemisia, sage, coconut, geranium, ylang-ylang, mate
Base: Labdanum, beeswax, honey, tobacco, amber, oak tree, cedar, musk and vanilla

Tart, citrus and dried fruits – mango, sweet orange are the top notes that grab me at first whiff. Followed immediately with golden, sparkling, not smokin’ tobacco. It’s pretty and reminds me of midsummer hot hot heat. The tobacco journey continues, and with a touch of bitter cocoa, and clary sage, it forms the under laying and robust foundation of this beauty. It’s savory underneath, and yet sweet gourmand notes play about delightfully on top. It’s as if someone dropped a basket of dried fruits and rum on a freshly mulched tobacco haystack, and now its warming in the sun.

Or du Serail Naomi Goodsir  mango PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

I first tried this, after I had just bought a bottle of Frapin’s 1270 from Peony in Melbourne (a rummy pineapple and chocolate love of mine – thanks to Portia’s review). My beautifully wrapped parcel arrived, and to my delight I noticed Jill had been generous and included some new release samples, of course Naomi Godsir’s Or Du Serail being one- She had said on the phone; “If you like 1270, you will LOVE Naomi’s Or du Serail”. She was right!

Thirty minutes on and its notes are all humming the same tune – perfectly attuned strings, all singing a big tobacco song. I keep thinking of golden light, at the end of a summer’s day -the streaming golden light I’m always happy to see cropping up on my instagram feed as friends in various countries conclude their days activities.

Or du Serail Naomi Goodsir   Istanbul_cafe WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The fruit drenched tobacco notes and light smoke remind me of London, I lived around the corner from a particular Turkish restaurant (Gallipoli on Upper St, Angel – in case you wish to visit), where people smoked shish and the smell would waft down the street – dry, fruity tobacco with mango and apple flavors.
Its here, and with the rum notes, lies the similarities with Frapin’s 1270, but put side by side, they are actually quite quite different. 1270 goes off on a flirty fun, yet sophisticated, pineapple fruit cocktail tangent, held into line by bitter chocolate undertones. The Or du Serail focuses in on the golden scents of tobacco, honey and mango, seeming to be deeper, more serious. ODS is like the steadfast, sophisticated fruit-cocktail sipper, tobacco pouch in hand, cedarwood pipe nearby, enjoying the last of the golden rays of afternoon sunshine. 1270, is more camp, and probably inside preparing for a fun night of dancing and dressups later. I’m not anyone needs a bottle of both, I would recommend trying both and seeing how you go.

The deep dry down of vanilla-rum and honeyed orange-amber, almost sued, smokey in parts, hinting sweet and humming beautifully, is just so tasty and robust. I really do love it. It does not project too strongly. It’s one of those yummy ones you have to get up nice and close to someone to really enjoy. I would recommend this fragrance for both men and women.

Further reading: Colognoisseur
LuckyScent has $187/50ml
First In Fragrance has 125/50ml
Peony Melbourne has $210/50ml with FREE Australian Shipping
Surrender To Chance has $5/.5ml

I would love to hear others experiences…..I feel like I am now in love with 2, non-identical, twins from different makers!!

Ainslie Walker x

DKNY Sweet Delicious – Tart Key Lime by Donna Karan 2012

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Post by Tina G

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The Be Delicious line by Donna Karan New York (DKNY) sometimes just doesn’t get its day in the sun. But honestly… to keep on top of this range would take a fair amount of dedication as it is large, with many special editions which are possibly not easy to come by. Recently I was given a sample bottle of Delicious Night (orchid and frankincense being the stand out notes) and a full bottle of Fresh Blossom Eau so Intense (an extremely sweet rose), so the range has been on my radar.

DKNY Sweet Delicious – Tart Key Lime by Donna Karan 2012

DKNY Sweet Delicious Tart Key Lime Donna Karan FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, bergamot, sweet notes, mandarin
Heart: Neroli, ginger, basil
Base: Violet leaf

I spotted the funky pastel packaging of the Sweet Delicious line recently, which includes three fragrances: Creamy Meringue, Pink Macaroon, and Tart Key Lime. Adorable! Although the designer of the bottle obviously has bigger hands than me – I find the standard “apple” design difficult to use and need two hands to hold the bottle and depress the spray mechanism. Awkward.

There are a few different types of limes, some you may be familiar with are kaffir lime, Persian or Tahitian lime, and Key lime. In Australia we usually are sold Tahitian lime, which are a bright green, have a certain sweetness in the juice, and are preferentially marketed because they have a thick skin (ie: easily transported). The Key lime is named after the groves in the Florida Keys, as this thin-skinned lime variation grows better in warmer climates. It is also used as an ingredient in Key Lime Pie, a zesty sweet treat, and I’m assuming is the reason it has been included in the Sweet Delicious line beside meringues and macaroons.

DKNY Sweet Delicious Tart Key Lime Key_lime_pie WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Citrus notes are an absolute favourite of mine, particularly mandarin and tangerine, but lime is up there as a “wow, must try” factor. Tart Key Lime doesn’t fail to deliver. It opens with a mouth-watering burst of lime, fresh and juicy and not overly bitter as to bring tears to your eyes. Quickly the pure lime top note gives way to orange and mandarin, and at 15 minutes there is a fragrant green herbal vibe wafting in the background.

A spicy ginger and basil combo comes through as the base, but this is the limit to its development. I’m reading the notes as I’m testing and I don’t get any sense of the listed violet leaf, bergamot or neroli which is a pity as it would be nice to have a bit of depth to the base notes. There is a thread of something honeyed in the background but it is a far cry from the sweet tooth sugar-bomb that you may expect from the advertising.

DKNY Sweet Delicious Tart Key Lime limes bowl  timlewisnm Flickr.jpgPhoto Stolen Flickr

Sweet Delicious Tart Key Lime is fresh, vibrant, and uplifting, and really is perfectly wearable as a go-to every day fragrance. I’m not sure that it is the one for me, I think there are other citruses out there that are a bit more intriguing, but I like to aim for the “never say never” category when it comes to exploring, and to have a bit of fun trying new things!

Tina G xx

Scent Task #1 GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Hi there Crew,

Great response to today’s gIVEAWAY! I love that we inspired you to grab out the neglected beauties, or at least reminded you they are there.

On to our winners
Portia x

Scent Task #1 GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 Winner who will get:
1 x decanted spray sample of all 5 Scent Task Fragrances
Fire from Heaven by C B I Hate Perfume
Vanille Tonique by Evocative Perfumes
28 Excess by Tokyo Milk
Amouage Gold Extrait de Parfum
Vintage Caleche by Hermes
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

 

You must tell me how you follow APJ

 

and

 

Tell me a fragrance that gets little or no love in your collection.

 

Extra Chance?
Tweet: APJ Facebook Scent Task GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-33H  

 

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 17th August 2014 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Winner Is amberinblunderlandPhoto Stolen amberinblunderland

flowergirlbee!

The winners will have till Thursday 21st August 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Amouage Gold pour Femme Amouage FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

My Perfume Story: Facebook Fragrance Friends

Hi there APJ,

Recently  on FFF or Facebook Fragrance Friends we had a special pinned post that everyone could get on board and write, well here’s the post.

We would like to invite you to share your perfume story: a reminiscence, a tale, a poem, a journey, even a dream. The rules are simple: In 300 words or less, post your perfume story, in any written form you wish. Allow your talent and imagination to soar. Go beyond perfume notes and branding. Help us to understand what perfume means to your past, present and/or future.

The moderators at FFF picked their five favourites and I thought we should share their lovely first fragrant memories with you….

My Perfume Story: Facebook Fragrance Friends

My Perfume Story Facebook Fragrance Friends essygie FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Trésor Prijs: Divine vapors, a symphony of light scattered through a fractured mind. As a child my mother was a mosaic of broken pieces, plagued by demons within her most beautiful soul. Each day, a battle. Few things made her smile, but one of the few that did was her perfume. As she diffused the aura of her invisible armor around her a radiant light emerged from within her sad, sapphire eyes. For that moment, she was my mother again. Her extraordinary ebullience, her peace returned. She must have seen how I watched her come to life with every mist of the atomizer because one day gave me a bottle of my very own. It was a bottle of Trésor, her favorite, the one my father bought for her when he found out she was pregnant with me. This is how my perfume journey began.

My Perfume Story Facebook Fragrance Friends daisy PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

JoAnne Bassett: My short version is at 5 yrs I received a Daisy fragrance set from Avon. I was thrilled to have my very own scent. I had 4 sisters so was able to try out all of their fragrances including my Mother who mostly wore Midnight in Paris, Youth Dew, Estee Lauder, and Alliage. I learned how to layer. In the 80’s I became allergic to dept store perfumes and my lovelies on my dresser became bottles to look at and not wear. I got migraines, runny noses and decided it was not worth it for me to wear them. In the 70’s I had made potpourri with herbs, flowers, spices and some refresher oils and essential oils you could buy…using those essential oils I was able to make simple frags. In the early 90’s went to Grasse..and traveled to 43 countries..not working..and became an aromatherapist and opened Bassett Aromatherapy and almost immediately began designing natural perfumes, custom perfumes and selling them to my clients. I started selling my natural perfumes online in 2000. I still love new absolutes, tinctures, macerations I make with my flowers and plants I grow.

My Perfume Story Facebook Fragrance Friends Cherry tree Roger Wollstadt FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

QuoterGal Hatch: I remember being about two or three in upstate NY, and being allowed to toddle around in the backyard by myself in spring & summer and check out all the smells in Mom’s gardens.
Dainty lilies of the valley lined one side of the house in the shade, multi-purpled lilac bushes stood in a row by the other side of the house, crocuses, daffodils, tulips, narcissus & hyacinth near the porch and along the right side of the yard, pale blue forget-me-nots and fragrant violets of every color scattered everywhere, a mock orange bush I could stand inside (heaven), a crabapple tree, Mom’s (mostly red) rose garden (I’d get stuck there and forget to move on), transfixing red, white & pink peonies, Queen Anne’s Lace and orange nasturtium that I was allowed to pick, pink phlox and bluish-purple bachelor buttons by the playhouse, and a big area reserved for Mom’s favorite purple & white irises and orange-red tiger lilies. An amazingly-fragrant massive cherry tree over the driveway. Huge bushes with white flowers, and ones with pink blossoms (and bees) whose names I never knew. And more… I learned that even flowers not considered fragrant had their own smells, and I loved them, too.
I started my love of perfume at an early age, but I really think my years of chasing the fragrance bottle are attempts to recapture the bliss of those early & vivid ecstatic smells.

Poison Dior FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Joseph Sagona: My fragrance journey started when I was a really young kid probably nine years old or so, I remember my mother having and still has it to this day Dior Poison on her nightstand, and I would sneak a few sprays here and their on my wrist and I really loved the sweet, rich smell of it, and every time I wear it, it reminds me of her. My father on the other hand never really cared for colognes much, he was an Aqua Velva, Old Spice Man, Aqua Velva is a cheap, fresh, clean smelling drug store cologne from the 70’s and 80’s, he bathed in that stuff, If I was in the Bed Room and he was in the Living Room I could smell it for miles, true story LOL.. As far as I go the first fragrance I ever bought with my own money was Calvin Klein Eternity when I was 15 years old, I still love it and wear it till this day. That’s how it all began for me.

My Perfume Story Facebook Fragrance Friends Cleopatra Liz Taylor WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Igor: I jokingly blame my mother for my fragrance obsession. My earliest experience with perfumed happened when I was around 3 or 4 years old. I was born in the Soviet Union, in the southern city of Samara which is famous for the most fragrant pure Lilly of the valley, spellbinding lilacs and sweet sappy linden trees. My early life has been filled with nature smells. But, there is a twist, I consider Soviet women as troopers and even martyrs. The reason is , they worked 9 hour working days which started at 7 am, then went to stores , waited hour long lines fighting for the remnants of food at empty stores, walked home with heavy bags to save money on public transport, cooked and cleaned until midnight or later almost every day of their lives, but, somehow, stayed elegant and attractive. In the late 80s you could not find sexy underwear, good skincare, or any fashionable clothing, yet my mother managed to stay on top of her game. Luckily, my father did travel with his band to the Socialist countries and spent all the money to dress and adorn my mom. In 1989 he brought her a magic little black box with strange words written on it. My mom opened it and got out a tiny bottle with dark yellow liquid, opened it, and paced a small dab of that liquid on her neck. Dark, luxurious, yet diaphanous warm veil settled upon me. This was nothing like I never smelled before. My mom explained it was a French perfume called “Magie Noir”. Vivid images filled my head, of Cleopatra or some other gorgeous queens in luxurious settings. My mother was very frugal with that bottle and only used it on very big occasions. Few years later my father brought her a bottle of Estee Lauder Knowing, an aldehyde, woody and fruity smell, so apropos to the pompous 80s and early 90s. My mother has taught me several important lessons with those two bottles: there are treasures in the world, never use anything carelessly and perfume completes your expression of “self”.
This year I bought my mother a new bottle of Magie Noire, but it does not smell the same as the original. I guess childhood memories are very particular and linger with us forever. My mom has been very careful with these bottles and she still has the originals which I treasure like relics. They were my only fantasies of what true beauty was or at least what it smelled like. Find below the pic of the original bottles in the original packaging along with the new Magie Noire and my mother’s portrait I drew.

I hope you enjoyed those. I thought they were lovely and very moving.
Portia xx

"Bottling The Memory" BBC Perfume Documentary Part 2

Hey Hey

Last Sunday we showed the “Something old, something new” Part 1.1 BBC Perfume Documentary. Today we”ll be able to watch the second of these 3 wonderful documentaries. You’ll need to grab a cuppa/juice/wine and maybe some breakfast/lunch/dinner and settle in for an hour, there are no ad breaks but you can pause and come back through your Sunday.

Fire from Heaven CB I Hate Perfume FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Christopher Brosius, Jean Claude Ellena and Givauden are just the beginning….

I love seeing inside the industry, even though I know this is a Hollywood-via-Heathrow-ised version of it. Still there is enough reality and interest to keep me static for more than half before I need a pit stop. Grabbed some sustenance, had a tinkle and watched the rest.

Enjoy.

Portia xx

BBC Perfume documentary Part 2 “Bottling The Memory”

Rose Cut by Bertrand Duchaufour for Ann Gerard 2014

Heya Cool Cats,

So here is the latest buzz frag. It seems to be a complete hit.

Rose Cut by Bertrand Duchaufour for Ann Gerard 2014

Rose Cut Ann Gerard FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, rum, pink pepper
Heart: Rose, peony, patchouli
Base: Vanilla, oakmoss, benzoin

I was a little let down by how Rose Cut performed on my skin. It was a lot like quite a few other fragrances from Voleur de Roses by L`Artisan Parfumeur, Gucci Rush, Narcisso Rodriguez for Her, Etc Etc. Yes, I know they are different scents and wear quite differently but that luminous aquatic floral has been done much more comfortably for my skin than this. It’s pretty, bright and fun and I think it will get a huge following. In fact if the other reviews are anything to go by this is definitely a winner. The bottles look so elegant and I really like the whole Ann Gerard aesthetic. Can I also say that I may be a bit snarky because I was expecting so much and my chemistry has let us both down tonight.

rose-cut--ann-gerard Yellow Rose WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

So it’s now about half an hour later. I was reading and put my chin on my hand and was like, What Is That Fabulous Smell? It is Rose Cut. After a very nice, simple opening Rose Cut becomes a lovely soft clean patchouli, floral bouquet with a touch of sweet resin that is a little human, worn and healthy. I’m surprised there is no mention of musk or leather in the notes because both seem very apparent and for such a soft fragrance it is remarkably noticeable. I wish it was slightly heftier though.

rose-cut--ann-gerard Marilyn_Monroe_Niagara WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Rose Cut is lovely through the middle. Soft focus, beautiful and quite distinctly memorable. A bit like Marilyn Monroe above and definitely flesh and pink coloured. MMMMMM.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Chemist In A Bottle.
First In Fragrance has €125/60ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $4/.5ml

How do like Rose Cut? Have you yet put it on your skin? Did it live for you? Would you like to try it?
Portia xx