Perfume

Pulp by Ben Gorham + Perfumer for Byredo 2008

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Guest Post by Dionne
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You Want Fruit? You Can’t Handle the Fruit!

or Happiness in a Bottle

Hey-o, fume fiends! It’s good to be back post-Christmas, and I’m hoping you all had a wonderful holiday as well.

One of the fun and interesting challenges of writing for APJ is deciding on a perfume to review, because I typically want to write about what I’ve been wafting lately. But like many of you, what I wear is influenced by the weather, and where I live it’s cooooold right now (was -25°C in these parts Christmas week) . I’m rocking my heavy snugglers. I had every intention of writing a review of Queen by Queen Latifah until someone at Facebook Fragrance Friends mentioned how hot it was in Aussie-land right now, and since there’s no way in Hades I could wear Queen in the heat of summertime, I’ll hold off until….hmmm…. maybe the southern hemisphere’s autumn when winter is still lingering around here?

SummerVsWinter trojannewsjpgPhoto Stolen TrojanNews

So, what to pick instead? An idea came because of a discussion I had on Christmas Eve. We had a bunch of people over for our annual fondue, and as the evening wound down a good friend checked out my fragrance collection. As we smelled and chatted, she asked which ones influenced my mood most. After showing her one of my I feel really smart right now category, and my how YOU doin’? fragrance, and an I feel pretty, oh so pretty perfume, I mentally slapped myself in the forehead for not bringing out today’s offering at the start. “You have to smell this one. It’s the happiest perfume I own.” And sure enough, just the waft from the piece of paper I sprayed it on brought a gigantic grin to both of our faces.

Pulp by Byredo 2008

I first smelled Pulp in Las Vegas about two years ago, when The Engineer and I got away for our 20th anniversary. Good man that he is, he was perfectly willing to tag along for a day while I hit a bunch of perfume counters and squealed over a bunch of lines I’d read about but never encountered before. The SA’s at Barney’s were especially delightful: “Ohhhh, a perfumista. Take your time, we like you guys.” After a good hour moving slowly through different collections, sniffing and generally geeking out, the Byredo rep said, “Try this. I think you’ll like it.” Cue my first big Pulp-induced grin; it was love at first huff.

Pulp FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

That first rush of delight whenever I smell this has never gone away. Like many perfumistas, I have crushes and infatuations that come and go as some hot new thang comes along, but Pulp belongs to a select group that I can’t ever imagine myself going without. In fact, I don’t think The Engineer would let me be without this. I wear a lot of things he likes, but he can only remember the names of two of my fragrances, and asks for them regularly. Black Cashmere, and Pulp.

Notes from Fragrantica:
Top: bergamot, cardamom, blackcurrant
Heart: fig, red apple, tiare flower
Drydown: cedar, praline, peach blossom

Technically, Pulp is big dollops of fig and blackcurrant and apple, but once they’re all thrown in the magical pot of the perfumer and bottled, the vibe I get is rhubarb.  Juicy, tart, in-your-face rhubarb. And did I mention juicy? Technically again, this is supposed to be a fruity-floral, but screw that. Pulp went and created its own category: the fruity-fruity. I get great longevity off of this, but it’s rare that I don’t, so take that for what it’s worth. Also, this has some serious waft. In my experience that just amounts to oodles of compliments, but be advised. Grinch-type people could find their hearts growing three sizes when they smell you.

Byredo has 50ml/$145 but only send to USA & Europe
MeccaCosmetica in Oz have 50ml/$158 with FREE Oz Shipping!!
SurrenderToChance starts at $6/ml

happy-new-year fabiovisentinPhoto Stolen fabiovisentin

Have a joyous 2013!

Dionne

copyright

Black Pepper: The Story

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Guest Post by SuzanneRBanks

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Hello AustralianPerfumeJunkies.

Suzanne from SuzanneRBanks blog about aromatherapy, where scents come from, how to use them and life in general.

Black Pepper

Black Pepper! A spice believed to be the most commonly traded spice in the world is still gracing us with its pungent taste and soft, smoldering scent. From its roots in Kerala, India, the tiny black peppercorn has been used in India for cooking and treating ailments in Ayurveda, since 2000BC – that’s a long time ago! Scholars claim black peppercorns were found in the nostrils of Ramses II, as part of the mummification process after his death in 1213 BCE. Was the spice keeping his body from deteriorating or was the scent of the pepper used symbolically to connect him to the heavens? Perhaps both.

BlackPepper wikipedia

Photo Stolen wikipedia

The Roman Empire created trade routes to India and China, returning via the Red Sea and the Middle East into Egypt, bringing with them the valuable black peppercorns. They were then sent on to Europe and the domination of black pepper was set in stone. In the middle ages in Europe the spice was a luxury, only afforded by the rich to be used as a medicine, an exotic addition to life, and to enhance cooking. It is claimed that in medieval England the spice was used in spells and amulets to offer protection – from disease and other meta-physical threats. China records black pepper in the 3rd Century as a foreign pepper, even so, it’s here to stay.

The essential oil of black pepper is a lot softer and sweeter than the taste, and is used in Aromatherapy for symptoms such as poor circulation, muscle and joint aches and pains, as treatment for bad digestion and as a general warming tonic. It has been used as an aphrodisiac, and an anti-dote to depression. Taking in all these properties, what can the divine scent tell us? Like many spice oils, it carries the energetic resonance of the evolution of humanity – really. Each drop, each whiff can link us to the past. It’s an oil of warmth, expansion and action. It’s a stimulating scent to the brain and can certainly be employed to open your mind. When I smell black pepper straight from the bottle (the best way to experience an essential oil is to take off the lid and take a huge sniff) I am inspired to carry on. To me it’s an oil of searching for your purpose in life, and giving inspiration to go forward and seize the day.

blackpepperseeds allintrading

Photo Stolen AllInTrading

Black pepper also reminds me of “The Chariot” card in a classic tarot deck. The one who drives the Chariot does so without reigns – only using his will. He goes out into the world to find his destiny and create his life. It could be considered to have “masculine qualities” and is describes as “yang’ in traditional Chinese medicine.

Pungent yet sweet, light with spicy tones, the oil of black pepper loves to be combined with anything really. It is a little to strong to be used all over the body in a moisturiser but perfect for anointing chakra points and vapourising for an atmosphere of warmth, love, sensuality and strength.

Happy-New-Year-2013-lucky wpPhoto Stolen luckywp

Thanks for reading,

Suzanne R Banks

https://www.facebook.com/suzannerbanks.com.au

http://suzannerbanks.com.au/

https://twitter.com/suzannerbanks

http://suzannerbanksaromatherapy.wordpress.com

Copyright 2012 Suzanne R Banks

Aqua Allegoria Jasminora by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2011

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Hey All,

As you know it’s summer down here but I also know that sometimes you need a spritz of springtime to wash away the winter blues. Here is one such, bursting with the freshness of spring, full of hope and sparkling like magic. I originally smelled this from a super frag fairy that added a little sample with something else , THANK YOU!!

 Aqua Allegoria Jasminora by Guerlain 2011

Jasminora FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, bergamot, cyclamen
Heart: Calabrian jasmine, freesia, lily of the valley
Base: Musk, amber

Few words make me want to bypass a fragrance as quickly as clean will, fortunately I tried this before I read any reviews though when I did read reviews I have hazy recollections of reading them before. A few reviewers complained of the artificiality displayed here but after the sizzling bergamot and green snap & crackle of the galbanum pass the waxy cyclamen brings a plastic bridge to the heart flowers and I think it’s a perfect segue. If you are looking for a dirty, indolic or sensual jasmine then you need to look elsewhere, what we have here is only a nod to jasmine, the cleanest, clearest jasmine note while not smelling at all like the jasmine on the plant. Here we find the jasmine of imagination with all the nasty bits left on the cutting room floor. The heft of the musks creates an unrelenting freshness through the whole life, about 5-7 hours depending, of Aqua Allegoria Jasminora by Guerlain and is what fabric softeners dream of becoming when they grow up and blossom into fine fragrance. I completely miss even a hint of amber on my skin, the dry down is a transparent floral laid over the squeaky clean musks, so pretty and now but still deep enough to be a Guerlain.

Fresh, bright and clean is a great way to smell when Thierry Wasser has been at the helm and he hit a home run with Jasminora, my new Aqua Allegoria full bottle. The advertisement below has orchids and I do feel a certain night blooming orchid entrancement floating through Aqua Allegoria Jasminora by Guerlain even though it’s not noted.

If you want something that will be fragrant but unobtrusive then this could be a very good go to for you. I like the lack of heft that comes with the Aqua Allegoria line at Guerlain, it’s a shame this one was a limited edition but it is still out there on discount sites.Wearing jasminora to work would be OK I think unless you are in particularly fragrance phobic environs, perfect for dinner, shopping, sport or after and great for the guys too.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Further Reading NowSmellThis and PerfumeShrine offer differing views
Amazon has 7 x 75ml left for under $50 at time of writing
ThePerfumedCourt starts at $3/ml

Have you tried Jasminora or any of the Aqua Allegorias? How do you like their fresh and youthful style? Is there one you pined for that’s now discontinued? How do you feel about Limited editions?

I want to take this opportunity to thank everyone who has been involved in APJ in 2012. it has been an awesome ride and I am THRILLED about 2013 and seeing what we can achieve in it. Resolutions? To be the best I can be even when I don’t feel like it. To a different, non judgmental, forgiving level of best. To be good to the people around me. To try to understand foolish, uncaring and selfish behaviours in others and do away with them in myself. Oh yeah! More money, less work.

HappyNewYear2013 luckywpPhoto stolen luckywp

Till tomorrow, Next year!!
Portia xx

Kashmir Spice by Serena Ava Franco for Ava Luxe

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Hey Hey Niche Nerds,

I was lucky enough to stumble across the Ava Luxe brand when SurrenderToChance were having their 40% off sale instead of Daily Chance Specials a while back and as soon as I got my nostrils around a couple I wanted MORE!! In true perfumista/addict/have no self control person style. The great news is that for an uber niche brand the prices are extremely affordable and sizes are also kept small so you can try 4 or 5 Ava Luxe frags for the cost of a mainstream offering.

Kashmir Spice by Ava Luxe

KashmirSpice FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

From the Ava Luxe site:
An alluring blend of exotic spices, cashmere woods, and incense. Turkish Rose absolute weaves it way through this sensual scent.
Featured Notes: East Indian spices, frankincense, myrrh, Cashmere woods, Turkish Rose Absolute, gaiacwood, amber.

WOW!! Kashmir Spice goes on hefty and gourmand, it’s a big fat glorious wander through one of the fabulous spice stores in Northern India. Totally edible and smelling like a sweeter version of the first moment the spices hit hot oil in a pan Kashmir Spice is an assault on your senses that is both enticing and memorable. The amber, frankinsense and myrrh give a lively resinous counterpoint that is sweet, balmy and dusty (The dusty may be the spices actually) at the same time. The woods and rose play only background on my skin but on Jin the rose is quite prominent, maybe you have to be further than I can get to smell it, on him Turkish rose absolute is like honey and rosewater baklava. MMMM!

kashmirBoats ToshaliToursPhoto Stolen ToshaliTours

I get a medium life span of around 4 hours of fragrance but after that my skin still smells better than reality, just ever so slightly vanillic, for another couple of hours and then gone. Way too perfumed for close working, borderline for dinner and cinema but perfect for all other moments when smelling gorgeous is important. At these prices you can afford to wear it as your daily after hours go-to frag, Kashmir Spice would be on a current short list for my 10 Desert Island frags.

KashmiriSpiceMarket ABC.netPhoto Stolen ABC.net

I have worn Kashmir Spice to work a few times and it is a guaranteed compliment gatherer and people want to get in for a big ole snuffle of you, then they ask what it is that you smell of and where can they get it. Every time so far!

Further reading: I could only find reviews on Make Up Alley and there is love and hate in equal measure
AvaLuxe site has 15ml EdP/$30 and 5ml extrait/$27
SurrenderToChance has some of the range that you can sample EdP $3/ml Extrait or Oils $8/ml

Have you tried the Ava Luxe fragrances? Did any of them ring your bell?
Tomorrow is the last day of 2012! Soon it will be gone forever.
I want to wish all our readers a wonderful 2013 full of all the good stuff you wish for yourselves. Health, wealth and happiness! Take care of yourselves and those in your orbit.
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx

POST CHRISTMAS TRIPLE GIVEAWAY WINNERS

/ australianperfumejunkiescom

Hello APJ Family,

THANK YOU to everyone who got involved and took a moment to respond. This has been a great fun competition for us. I hope you all enjoyed it too. This weeks giveaway sponsor LibertinePerfumerie got a bunch of hits and are really happy so I think we will have some super excellent giveaways in 2013!!

Without further ado let’s get to it.

POST CHRISTMAS TRIPLE GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Interlude parfumeriePhoto Stolen parfumerie

What’s In The Packs?

The three winners will receive each
1 x AMOUAGE Interlude Man carded 3ml Manufacturers Spray Sample
1 x AMOUAGE Interlude Woman carded 3ml Manufacturers Spray Sample
with P&H anywhere in the world

Special THANKS to LibertinePerfumerie for the AMOUAGE Interlude Samples. Please visit their site because they are so generous and helpful. APJ will be doing a super AMOUAGE INTELUDE DRAW in the New Year.

prize angkoronePhoto Stolen angkorone

How Could You Win?

Open to everyone worldwide who is a follower of AustralianPerfumeJunkies via email (eM), RSS, or WordPress (WP). Yes, you could become a new follower to enter! In fact, we encouraged it.
All you needed to do this week was go to LibertinePerfumerie and get the name of any product they sell that hadn’t been used in this draw before! That’s it!! EASY PEASY!

I must be able to find your email in my email followers list so make sure you give me the right email please

Extra Chances
You could earn an extra chance each for Facebooking or Tweeting

Housekeeping

Entries Closed Saturday December 29th 10pm AEDST.
Winners were chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and TSO Jin picked them. He doesn’t even stop watching TV to do it usually.

WINNERS berryreviewPhoto stolen berryreview

054837s

RuthF

Mark Evans

The winners have till Wednesday December 19th to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or I will give the prize to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Thank you all for being a part of our giveaway.

See you later today.

Portia xx

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Jean-Paul Guerlain for Guerlain 2007

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Hello Happy Huffers,

This is another beauty that has languished unsniffed and unloved since it arrived and now I have a moment it has been getting some serious skin time. Coming from a split I have a wonderful 10ml for a very reasonable price plus postage, it was such a great deal I bought a few of Ruth’s decants at the same time. Thanks Ruth!!

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain 2007

Spiritueuse DoubleVanille FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, bergamot, incense
Heart: Ylang-ylang, cedar, bulgarian rose, jasmine
Base: Benzoin, vanilla

From the Guerlain site: “If a colour or fragrance were to be associated with each day, like the planets were in ancient times, sandal wood would be the Sun, saffron would be Jupiter, and without doubt vanilla would be Venus.” Jean-Paul Guerlain

From the outset Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain hits vanilla loud, it is almost a roll on perfume oil it’s so intense at first, then the bright citrus and dry incense float merrily through to add dappled light and shade simultaneously, and a breathy indolic undertone. As we move into the heart vanilla makes a comeback but this time it’s a softer, more refined and controlled vanilla surrounded by an ethereal bouquet that is present but unreadable except for a bright spicy lemon that could be part of the rose and still a breathy wash over all. The trimmings slowly fade as we head towards dry down and here I get something hot, sweet chocolate milk-ish till all that’s left is caramelised vanilla skin for hours.

HotChocolate thelaurelhedgePhoto Stolen thelaurelhedge

The lifespan can vary dramatically; sitting here at the computer or sleeping I get 7+ hours but when I wear Spiritueuse Double Vanille to work, shopping or cleaning it’s lucky to last 4 hours but spraying fabric gives it extra lifespan.

While not being a huge statement fragrance when wearing Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain you are decidedly fragrant, sensual, delicious and enticing. Very close or frag-phobic workspaces would find it unsuitable but I think most other pursuits would be good. It’s not strong enough to interfere with cinema patrons or your food but very high summer temps might make it cloying, it has been cooler the last 2 days here in Oz and Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain has been a perfect evening choice.

CaramelisedApple&ButtermilkCake food.ninemsnPhoto Stolen food-ninemsn

Further reading BoisDeJasmine and Olfactoria’sTravels

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain is now part of the regular range and can be found in the biggest department stores worldwide.
I bought 10ml in a split on FacebookFragranceFriends from the amazing Ruth!
ThePerfumedCourt starts at $6.50/ml

Have you tried Spiritueuse Double Vanille? Does Guerlain do it for you as a house? How did you feel about Mr Guerlain, now retired, who caused offense during a TV interview in October 2010. Personally I applaud Guerlain’s taking the reins from him and handing them to Thierry Wasser in such a quick and decisive manner.

I hope this finds you as happy and well as it leaves me,
Till tomorrow,
Portia xx

Stuff Portia Loved In 2012

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 41 Comments

Hey Crew,

Before you go any further jump back to our Triple Giveaway

I wanted to look back at the year of things that I’ve loved, that have made definite impressions on me, have changed the way I look at the world or craved/enjoyed/shared. Most of the non-fragrance things have been enjoyed with my Best Buddies and TSO Jin making them EXTRA special. I had to do a Top 20 Worn because it was impossible to curb, you are lucky it didn’t blow out to 200.

Best-of-2012 dyknowPhoto Stolen dyknow

Portia’s Top 5 Lists

FRAGRANCES WITH MOST SKIN TIME (Top 5 are highlighted)

Baiser Vole EdP- Cartier
Ballets Rouges- Olympic Orchids
Bellodgia EdP_ Caron
Brasil Dreams- Estee Lauder
Casmir- Chopard
Courage- One Seed
Dreamer- Versace
Guilty- GUCCI
Halle- Halle Berrry
L’Eau d’Navigeur- L’Artisan
Lou Lou- Cacharel
Lys Soleia- Guerlain
Matin d’Orage- Annick Goutal
Mohur- Neela Vermeire Creations
Nikki de Saint Phalle
No 5- CHANEL
Parfum de Maroc- Aftelier Perfumes
Shalimar- Guerlain
Trouble- Boucheron
Wild Ginger Chai- SOIVOHLE

NEW RELEASES (You try and make this list into 5)

Amouage- Interlude Man
Christian Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur – Oud Ispahan
Guerlain – Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia
Keiko Mecheri – Un Jour d’Ete
L’Artisan Parfumeur – Seville a l’Aube
Naomi Goodsir – Cuir Velours
Neela Vermeire Creations – Mohur (I know but…)
Robert Piguet – Bois Noir
Serge Lutens – Santal Majuscule
Ys Uzac – Pohadka

NICHE PERFUME HOUSES

Aftelier Perfumes
L’Artisan Parfumeurs
Neela Vermeire Creations
Olympic Orchids
SOIVOHLE

FRAGRANCE HOUSES

Boucheron
Caron
CHANEL
DIOR
Guerlain

FRAGRANCE BLOGS I ALWAYS READ (PerfumePosse obviously!)

Candy Perfume Boy
Olfactoria’s Travels
Perfume Shrine
Scents Of Self
The Alembicated Genie

FOOD

Boscaiola Sauce
Home Made Nori Rolls
Mangoes
Spicy Korean Bar B Q
Chicken Penang Curry

TELEVISION

American Idol
Family Guy
The Voice – Australia
Two Broke Girls
UK Got To Dance

MOVIES (sorry only LOVED four)

Brave
Mental
Snow White and the Huntsman
The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel

What were your #1 faves in each category? Why?

As we finish the year I want you to know how much you all mean to me. A LOT!! This blog continues because you all are awesome. Thank you readers, commenters, Guest Posters and regulars in all shapes and sizes.

To all the perfumers, houses, writers, shops and online presences that continually inspire and delight me.

THANK YOU.

Love,

Portia xx

MUSIC (I know there are 8!)

These are the songs that never left my playlist after they were released. This is the first time I’ve seen a couple of the videos too.

Alicia Keys – Girl On Fire


Ed Sheeran – A Team

Florence + The Machine – Shake It Out

Guy Sebastian – Battle Scars ft. Lupe Fiasco

Gavin DeGraw – Not Over You

KylieMinogue _ Timebomb

Mary J Blige – 25/8

No Doubt – Looking hot

POST CHRISTMAS TRIPLE GIVEAWAY

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 59 Comments

Heya Fume heads,

This is the last giveaway for the year and we’d love you to be a part of it. It’s been a super fun year and we hope for an even more fabulous 2013 for us and you. All the good stuff we wish for ourselves can happen in 2013. At least we can work towards making it all happen for ourselves. New Year coming, new slate!

One of the most written and talked about launches in 2012 was the Amouage Interlude Man & Woman. I was blown away by them both and want to share the joy with you all. Serendipitously Nick at LibertinePerfumerie happened to have some samples from Amouage that he’d like you all to try because the fragrances are beyond your wildest expectations.

POST CHRISTMAS TRIPLE GIVEAWAY

giveaway kbairdPhoto Stolen kbaird

What’s In The Packs?

There are THREE packs to give away this week, the three winners will receive
1 x AMOUAGE Interlude Man carded 3ml Manufacturers Spray Sample
1 x AMOUAGE Interlude Woman carded 3ml Manufacturers Spray Sample
with P&H anywhere in the world

Interlude parfumeriePhoto Stolen parfumerie

Special THANKS to LibertinePerfumerie for the AMOUAGE Interlude Samples. Please visit their site because they are so generous and helpful. APJ will be doing a super AMOUAGE INTELUDE DRAW in the New Year.

How Do You Win?

Open to everyone worldwide who is a follower of AustralianPerfumeJunkies via email (eM), RSS, or WordPress (WP) and please put which in your answer. Yes, you may become a new follower to enter! In fact, we encourage it.
All you need to do this week is go to LibertinePerfumerie and get the name of any product they sell that hasn’t been used in this draw before! NO DOUBLE UPS!! That’s it!! EASY PEASY!

Extra Chances
You can earn an extra chance each for
Facebooking this link: APJ Merry Christmas Giveaway https://australianperfumejunkies.com/2012/12/27/post-christmas-triple-giveaway/#comment-5935
Tweeting this: @OzPerfumeJunkie APJ Merry Christmas Giveaway https://australianperfumejunkies.com/2012/12/27/post-christmas-triple-giveaway/#comment-5935

So, your entry will look like this:
eM (portia_turbo) Keiko Mecheri – Un Jour d’Ete + FB & Tweet
Thanks
Portia xx
or
WP (AustralianPerfumeJunkies) Keiko Mecheri – Un Jour d’Et + FB & Tweet
Thanks
Portia xx

Housekeeping

Entries Close Saturday December 29th 10pm AEDST and winners will be announced in a separate mini post on Sunday.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and TSO Jin will pick them. He doesn’t even stop watching TV to do it usually.
The winners will have till Wednesday December 19th to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or I will give the prize to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

GO TO IT!! Good luck everyone
Portia xx

A Short Film created by Bacchus for Amouage. Directed by the agency’s Creative Director, Charlotte Lurot, Published on Nov 2, 2012. Gorgeous!!

Ormonde Woman EdP by Linda Pilkington for Ormonde Jayne 2002

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Hello Happy Huffers,

Not so long ago my mate Dionne sent me a fragrant care package of a few of her most cherished gems. Only one of those mini atomisers arrived empty and it was one that Dionne especially wanted me to try. Serendipitously on FFF there happened to be a split of the 4 travel sized 10ml Ormonde Woman EdPs going so I put my hand up for one of my own.

Ormonde Woman EdP by Ormonde Jayne 2002

OrmondeWoman FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, coriander, grass oil
Heart: Black hemlock, violet, jasmine absolute
Base: Vetiver, cedar wood, amber, sandalwood

Ormonde Jayne site says: Beginning and ending with the unique scent of Black Hemlock absolute – rarely used in such luscious quality and quantity – this utterly hypnotic, unconventional and mysterious woody essence is combined with jasmine and violet absolute to create a dusky, seductive perfume.

I love the green opening that seems to be warm. I know this makes little sense but that first few minutes rush is extraordinary. I don’t smell the notes as such but a sweet, warm, oily, green deliciousness reminiscent of freshly cut bell peppers is about as close as I can get to explaining what I smell. Floaty, ethereal and lively but dense at the same time, intrusive and rivetting.  When the initial rush changes Ormonde Woman remains green and sappy but the flowers come through and lift it beyond itself. If black hemlock is what makes this beauty shine then I wish more perfumers would use it.

Unfortunately my skin eats all traces of Ormonde Woman well before I’m ready to let go of it, and before the story finishes. I get no amber and very little wood and am fragrance free in around 2 hours. Other people find it a tenacious fragrance that lingers for ages. If I spray on fabric instead of skin I get 6+ hours and much more of a journey. The first 2 hours that I get is exquisite though, well worth trying and the Ormonde Jayne Sample Set is Ah May Zing!!

GirlGreen foundwallsPhoto Stolen Foundwalls

Further reading PerfumeShrine and CandyPerfumeBoy
OrmondeJayne’s site has 4 x 10ml Travel Sprays £64
PoshPeasant has 1ml/$6

I hope the silly season is not getting you down. It can be totally overwhelming at times. Don’t worry we’ll be over the drama and torment soon. Maybe try and look beyond the rubbish attached to Christmas and remember some really great messages that should come through like treat everyone well, take care of yourself and those around you and forgive. I’ve been trying to keep these in mind.

Happy Holidays to you all,

Portia xx

Linda Pilkington talks Ormonde Woman

Ormonde Jayne – Ormonde Luxury Perfume from Ormonde Jayne on Vimeo.

PG04 Musc Maori by Pierre Guillaume for Parfumerie Generale 2005

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

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Gabriella

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Hello APJ friends! I do hope you’re all having a great festive season and for those that celebrate Christmas, I hope Santa brought many scented goodies your way.
I respect the Parfumerie Generale line enormously. I might not own many full bottles of Pierre Guillame’s concoctions but I love how he makes the conventional extraordinary and makes the unconventional tremendously beautiful.
Take his version of tuberose, the sumptuous Tubéreuse Couture, where the ‘conventional’ tuberose is taken to new heights by the addition of sugar cane and papyrus. Or Bois Naufragé where the inspiration was a photo of a nude on driftwood. The unconventional idea of skin and washed up flotsam and jetsam is transformed into a transparent milky fig and woody scent that is much more than a day at the beach.

PG04 Musc Maori by Parfumerie Generale 2005

Musc Maori is his take on the conventional note of chocolate. Now, I am not sure about you, but I am not really a fan of gourmand scents. I’m also one of those weird women that missed out of the chocolate-loving gene when I was born. The taste of chocolate, let alone the thought of a perfume centred around it, doesn’t exactly set my world on fire.
Musc Maori, however, is much more than just a chocolate perfume. It is an exploration of all chocolate’s elements: its taste, its smell, how it makes you feel and the memories it brings.

PG04 Musc Maori FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these notes:

Cacao pod, tonka bean, amber, vanilla, white musk, woody notes, coffee, floral notes and green notes.

Musc Maori’s opening is much more intriguing and complex than the whiff of a freshly opened chocolate bar.
Languid floral notes (which I suspect here is orange blossom and a little jasmine) combine with the cacao and tonka bean to create a vivid impression of entering a really good chocolate shop. The refrigerated air is perfumed with the sweetness of rows upon rows of prettily decorated and delicately flavoured chocolate nubs. It is at once rich, yet transparent, like an aerated veil of all varieties of the sweet: from plain dark to milky white; from raspberry fondant to orange crème.

The woody notes then underscore the floral sweetness but lend a tart, slightly astringent vibe that is almost crunchy in nature. It reminds me of my younger years when I did in fact enjoy the occasional tube of Smarties or two: biting into the brittle candied shell to devour the silky milk chocolate inside. It also evokes a flood of memories of birthday parties. There’s the sweet, powdery acidic smell of packets of balloons. There’s the scented melange of jelly sweets, chocolates and plastic trinkets in the take-home lolly bags mixed with the remnants of the perfume the mother wore when she carefully packed them the night before.

maoricarving 3news.co.nzPhoto Stolen 3news

Musc Maori then develops a strong lactonic character, but it’s not hot milk or even hot chocolate I smell. The milk note here is tepid with the gentle aroma of white flowers. Masses of jasmine and gardenia blooms steeped in white liquid. The drydown is the soft chocolate mixed with gentle musk and woody notes: the scent of a young child’s skin after a Friday night chocolate treat and a bath: warm, tender and sweet.

I find Musc Maori to be a compelling perfume to smell and experience. It’s one that really surprised me because it is just that much different from anything else I have tried. But while it has taken me on a lovely olfactory journey and evoked strong memories, it’s still not something I would actually want to smell like. I’ll keep a vial handy for the memories, but full bottles are for true chocolate connoisseurs only.

cacao healthpostPhoto Stolen HealthPost

Further reading TheCandyPerfumeBoy and Olfactoria’sTravels
Perfumerie Generale’s site starts at 30ml/€59
SurrenderToChance starts at 1ml/$5
.
Have you tried Musc Maori? What are your favourite gourmand scents or ones with chocolate notes? Have you tried any perfumes recently that have inspired strong memories of childhood?
With much love till next time,
M x