Prada

New Sniffs + Thunked: 14.2.2019

/ AustralianPerfumeJunkies / 55 Comments

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Portia

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Hey Hey Perfume Junkies,

OK I’m adding a THUNKED section here too. It’s becoming an APJ obsession and I love the idea of us using our fragrances and hoiking the vial, decant or bottle. Thunk is the sound of an empty hitting the bin so you must empty it for the thunk to count.

Anything worthy of comment, either good or bad, that’s passed under my nose through the week will get a short write up. If I think something is terrible, shamefully lazy, greedy or stupid and you should know about it, it will be said. As always YMMV.

I’d love it if you get involved: agree, respectfully disagree, have any thought-out opinion and want to share, do so in the comments below. The point is starting a conversation.

New Sniffs + Thunked: 14.2.2019

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Scent Diary: 8.10 – 14.10.2018

/ AustralianPerfumeJunkies / 57 Comments

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Portia

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Hey there APJ Crew,

Life is change and mine is in flux. Yes, I have headed back to the gym for the first time in eons. Diabetes eating has arrived. 50 years of treating my body abominably (and loving every minute, mouthful and lazy couch hour) has come home to roost. I’ve got a year to turn it around or it will be a medical regime forever.

In other news perfume, pals, pets, fun and laughter ruled the roost. Wonderful week. So much self created variety in every day.

I would also like to say how much I enjoy all the chatter, banter, lives, stories, fun and fragrance we have on the APJ SOTD thread each week. I can’t answer every comment but I read almost all of them. It gets confusing when the chains of each comment get too long and I give up. Your stories make me smile and think and sometimes shake my head. Just like family. I love it. Thanks.

 

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Mainstream Mania: Department + Drug Store Gems

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

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Post by Portia

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Heya Crew,

My mate Scott and I often talk about our love for Department Store and Drug Store (Chemist in Australia) fragrances. Many of our vintage loves are from the genre, also some of the designer and celebrity scents, as well as the huge multinational beauty companies. The mainstream has an enormous range and encompasses some of the best and worst of todays perfume market. So today we ask you a question……

Mainstream Mania

Department + Drug Store Gems

What do you love from the Department or Drug Store?

We spend so much time talking vintage, niche, indie and natural on the Scentblkggoshpere but what is your easy to find, grab it anywhere, no need to hoard it fragrance? I have a few but let’s chat about two nearly empty samples I’ve had rattling around in my box and one bottle that I adore today.

Tabu Dana FragranticaFragrantica

Dana Tabu EdC 1932

Top: Bergamot, Spices, Coriander, Neroli, Orange
Hear: Clove, Ylang-ylang, Oriental rose, Jasmine, Narcissus, Clover
Base: Amber, Benzoin, Oakmoss, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Cedar, Civet

Tabu is one of my favourites, it’s so pickable in public and one of my friends Lyndall has worn it forever. I have some of the older perfume and EdT but my absolute favourite version is the modern EdC. The opening notes smell like a sari shop in Alwar, Rajasthan that I love to shop at when in India. No idea what I’m smelling really because Tabu smells only of itself. Interestingly for me Jean Carles who created Tabu also created such fragrant luminaries as Shocking by Schiaparelli, Miss Dior, Indiscrete by Lucien Lelong and Ma Griffe by Carven: quite a roll call.

L`Eau Ambree PradaFragrantica

Prada L’Eau Ambrée 2009

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, Citruses
Heart: Patchouli, Rose
Base: Ambergris, Opoponax, Vanilla

Prada L’Eau Ambree is so weirdly named because to me most of the fragrance smells of anything but amber. The cool, wet, juicy citrus opening that morphs into a dirty patchouli/rose and wet cardboard. Finally I get a resinous salted vanilla that is completely inedible but dark and mysterious. I love the mood changes and byplay in L’Eau Ambree, it’s all about surprise and it never plays it safe. It’s not often talked about by the perfumista crew and that’s strange to me because it’s a solid fragrance that tells an enjoyable story.

Tresor In Love Lancome FragranticaFragrantica

Lancôme Trésor in Love 2010

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Pear, Nectarine, Peach, Pink pepper
Heart: Jasmine, Peach, Taif rose, Violet
Base: Musk, Virginia cedar

Recently my mate Victoria at EauMG talked about Trésor In Love and I have always gravitated towards Lancôme Midnight Rose in the same bottle but purple. While looking for something else I came across 5ml of Trésor In Love and have been using it as my morning wake up scent to the point that it’s almost gone. As Victoria says, “It reminds me of a many perfumes launched around the same time that are like an abstract fruity-floral with clean, synth ambers.” Somehow though Trésor In Love is a more comfortable, easy wear, life is fun, zingy fragrance than most of the others and I find myself really enjoying the ride.

So what is your Mainstream Mania? Share your readily available favourites in the comments below please?
Portia xx

Scenting Characters: What would ‘X’ wear?

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

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Post by Liam

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Good evening fragrance aficionados!

Scent associations fascinate me. Most pertinently, when watching film and TV I often find myself scenting fictional characters. The way certain actors and actresses portray a character astounds me, and sometimes I wonder how they would smell considering their personalities.

Scenting Characters: What would ‘X’ wear?

Anthony Hopkins as Hannibal Lecter in The Silence of the Lambs (1991):

Intellectually staggering; an enigma wrapped in multitudes of haunting mystery. Hannibal Lecter, despite his cannibal tendencies, is an upperclass gentleman with a great disdain towards bad manners!

Bal a Versailles Jean Desprez FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

For Lecter, I choose Jean Desprez floriental “Bal a Versailles”. Totally classical in its composition, I am reminded of scenes when Lecter draws pictures of Clarice whilst listening to classical music. Bal a Versailles is textured wonderfully, expensive (rare), and most importantly for those with great taste! It is exotic, yet grounded by an impression of properness and prissiness. Perfect for Lecter.

Tony Shalhoub as Adrian Monk in Monk (2002 – 2009):

OCD-ridden, Adrien Monk is a delicate creature and a brilliant detective. Often when watching I find Shalhoub delivers a very tangible human quality to the character, verging innocuous yet persistent as his OCD often gets in the way.

Escentric 01 Escentric Molecules FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

I particularly love the ‘square tomato’ scene and another when he meticulously gets his haircut. But, considering this, I don’t think the character would wear perfume because he would find it both interfering and may never find something he loves! Therefore, I choose Escentric Molecules “Molecule 01”. The ISO-E Super is something I cannot smell on myself, which I feel would be a feature Monk would appreciate. Molecule 01’s subtle woody and cedar-like aroma is clean and clinical, much like the character.

Meryl Streep as Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada (2006):

Powerful, important, and amazingly dressed (the way she tosses Prada bags and expensive coats carelessly – wow!). Clad in the most amazing garments (I consider this film as the impetus for my fashionable awakening), Priestly is the epitome of a contemporary ‘Boss Lady’. She demands respect and universally sets the tone.

Infusion d'Iris Prada FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

I was tempted to give this character Mitsouko, but given her haute position as the editor-in-chief of a fashion magazine she needs to be ‘with it’ as well as timeless. Thus, I choose Prada’s “Infusion d’Iris” for her in work mode. Sleek, slightly cold, and very professional. It is discrete elegance, remembering that iris is very expensive! Opening with citruses, then layered with soft incense and resins on a bed of cedar.

Rod Taylor as Mitch Brenner in The Birds (1963):

Rod Taylor portrays the male hero in Hitchcock’s suspense horror “The Birds”. Whilst the character is firmly placed in a heroic role protecting Tippi Hedren from vicious birds, we also view a romantic tale. The film features really dark and challenging undertones, including the idea of uncertainty and a supernatural-esque danger. Rod Taylor’s character requires something strongly grounded, yet delicate and romantic up on top. Often he is well dressed, donning typical duotone suit outfits for work, with tweed blazers and white sweaters for relaxation.

Chanel Sycomore Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

I think Chanel’s “Sycomore” is most appropriate. The mild flounce and tendency to be cheeky is expressed with an amazing violet note, grounded in a vetiver and tobacco accord (a bit like wood varnish) also calling to mind the classicism of Guerlain’s Vetiver.

All these fragrances can be sampled at Surrender To Chance if you’d like to try them

Your turn! How would you scent the following?

Norman Bates – Psycho

Mildred Pierce – Mildred Pierce

James Bond (Sean Connery)

-Liam.

L'Eau d'Ambree by Daniela (Roche) Andrier for Prada 2009

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

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Post by ElizaD

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A perfume. Not a study, not an irony, not an invitation, or memoir, or a response. A perfume. A “your skin but better” plain old perfume. Friends, I give you

L’Eau d’Ambree by Daniela (Roche) Andrier for Prada 2009

L`Eau Ambree Prada FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Amalfi lemon, citruses
Heart: May rose, patchouli
Base: Amber, oppoponax, vanilla

L’Eau Ambree seems to be the forgotten child of the Prada line, which is unfortunate because it is a lovely, soft and warm, comfortable sweater of a scent. Not loud and boastful, yet still elegant enough to wear for many different occasions. I first learned about it from Katie Puckrik, one of the funniest perfume vloggers around.

It was created by Daniela Andrier as were Infusion D’Iris in 2007 and Candy in 2011. I have tried all three and like them for different reasons: Infusion D’Iris is a lovely iris scent, and is a little sharper but more powdery; Candy has the same sweet balsam notes with warm musk and that wonderful caramel that makes me want to drench myself in it before cuddling; but for me, L’eau Ambree is the Goldilocks just right version–just the right amount of sweet and skin, but not too come hither or too standoffish.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The top notes dissipate quickly on my skin, settling into the heart and dry down very quickly. In fact, this is one scent where I am not striving with every inhale to determine what is where. It just works. And in this world of too much information, too much stimulus, too much too much, that is what makes this scent so reassuring. Plus, it’s one perfume that I never mind smelling on my clothes the day after.

She's focusedPhoto Stolen Flickr

You can get L’Eau Ambree for a decent price. It comes in the complete line of layering options, from EdP to shower gel. Sillage is moderate and longevity is about 4 hours. Carry a rollerball and reapply if necessary. I also have layered this on top of Jovan’s White Musk to give it greater longevity.

Further reading: Daly Beauty and Now Smell This
FragranceNet has $40/30ml
My Perfume Samples start at $2/ml

What’s your comfortable sweater all occasion perfume?

Amber Pour Homme Intense by Prada 2011

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Hey hey Girls & Guys,

I have a buddy Scott, he is pretty new to the perfume craving and has fallen deeply into the wormhole. Every now and then he brings me something to try. Isn’t that one of THE greatest things about having perfumista buddies? We all try different stuff and come back and comment, engage, love/hate, lemming and enjoy the whole process. Living in a big city makes it easy to face to face with people but even the fragrance boards on FaceBook have been instrumental in my finding of fragrance friends, all over the world so if I’m suffering insomnia there is someone around the world ready to chat. From a lonely little fragrance addicted person to part of a culture and community is a wonderful change.

Amber Pour Homme Intense by Prada 2011

Amber Pour Homme Intense Prada FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Italian bergamot, Somalia myrrh, Indonesian patchouli, Madagascan vanilla, amber, patchouli, labdanum, vetiver, orange blossom, geranium, tonka, musk, leather, sandalwood, saffron

When I think Prada fragrance it’s often sheer, linear and smooth. A gentle wash of fragrance that can carry you from breakfast to ballroom and is so calm and contemplative that unless you are seriously waiting for progression to happen can basically run from go to whoa as a single piece. I love that whole aesthetic, simple and uncluttered in Prada’s design and think the brand is clever, innovative and middle tier luxe in their mass market offerings. Think Prada Candy and flankers, also the infusion range, very well put together and easy to wear fragrance with a moderate life and less than average sillage and scent bubble. You will smell good but not loud, which for much of the world is how they like their fragrances.

Amber Pour Homme Intense Prada FromTheNorth FlickrPhoto Stolen FromTheNorth Flickr

Prada’s Amber Pour Homme Intense is a different kettle of fish. It opens strong and right off the skin jumps patchouli, myrrh, amber and vanilla with that spicy/plastic saffron and a backdrop of butter, that may be sandalwood or orange blossom or their combination. the bergamot only makes its presence known on my second application over the first later in the day and it could be the pretty rasp of geranium that I notice here too? I don’t know for sure but what I do know is that Amber Pour Homme Intense is weightier than all the other Pradas that I’ve tried, it smells more niche to me, a little less smooth and perfect, smokier and dirtier in a good way. More fun, adventurous and is there a little naughty? Like the moment in movies when finally the hair is let down, the tie and top button undone, where people start to forget their walls and start enjoying the moment. Not heavy, or cloying, there is still the Prada spareness but Amber Pour Homme Intense seems to be comfortable enough with itself that it might give a saucy wink or have a drink or do something unexpected, not outrageous but new. Do I make sense? Maybe a banker who takes their shoes off to feel the grass and sun at lunchtime or a director who decides that a Monday brainstorm at the pub at 4pm might provide better results than at a formal boardroom meeting, still a private room but less uptight. A lovely soft oriental fragrance that becomes very slightly skinnish towards the end of its life at around 4 hours.Have I noted that this is a perfectly unisex offering, please don’t think it’s for one or the other, Amber Pour Homme Intense is a good, very reasonably priced, everyone scent.

sunset mosquePhoto Stolen Matthias Rhomberg Flickr

Further reading: Chemist In A Bottle talks about original Amber Pour Homme and Now Smell This talks Intense
FragranceNet has $42/50ml before coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $3.50/ml

Have you tried either of the Prada Amber Pour Homme’s? Original or Intense? Do you agree with my unisex thought? Would you wear it?
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx

 

 

Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger by Daniela Andrier for Prada 2009

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Hello fellow Fumies,

Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger by Prada 2009

I have not really spent any amount of time with the Prada fragrances. Though Prada opened back in 1913, it was while I was at Fashion School during the 1980s that they really started to take over the world. I have loved their meteoric rise and swooned with delight at some of their runway stuff but it has never seemed to be a good fit for me or my life so I pretty much left them alone. One grey cashmere jumper is all I’ve owned from Prada and it is looking decidedly worse for wear after being dragged from pillar to post around the world since the 1990s. To tell the truth the label fell out in its first week and I caught a sleeve on a London bus not even a month after buying it in Rome. So it has been a mended item since then, seriously luxe and comfortable though even now.

Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these notes in one line:
Mandarin orange, neroli, tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom

Like my Prada pullover I find Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger extremely comfortable. It is fresh, warm and bright, basically staying that way with a fade rather than a story, though it still holds some differences with each wear. The copy calls it a middle ground between  Prada’s Exclusive Scent No. 4 Fleur de Oranger and Infusion d`Iris, and that is a pretty good representation of it. Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger is simple, uncluttered fragrance that gives 4-6 hours depending on other factors. I love the 100ml bottle, it’s so hefty and square, to me it has a refined elegance that adds to my enjoyment every time I spritz. Originally I bought decants but I was going through them so it was time for a bottle and the box is also lovely in a black, lime and pink ex fabric combo Prada had in its collection a few years ago. Last week I put it on over one of my favourite body lotions and it went totally toilet spray for an hour, awful, but usually I find it an easy spritz, waft and wear fragrance suitable for all but the most fragrance phobic of workplaces.

OrangeBlossom west-cretePhoto Stolen west-crete

Further reading NowSmellThis and PerfumePosse
FragranceNet have 200ml/$90 unboxed
MyPerfumeSamples start at $2/ml but I bought $7/5ml

Have you tried Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger? How does it wear for you?

Till tomorrow,
Take care please,
Portia xx