Review

Salvidor Dali + Rosa sur Reuse by Liz Zorn for SOIVOHLE

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Hi there APJ,

Two of my favourite things are art & fragrance. Today when I chose my scent it was Rosa sur Reuse that I reached for. I was pretty liberal (3 to chest and 1 to hair) and now I am sitting in a fragrant cloud that immediately made me think of the surreal works of Salvador Dali. There is something perfectly surreal and new every time I wear it and it’s much like rediscovering Dali’s works every time you come across them, the absolute surprise at his perfectly poised rendering of the bizarre, shocking, humorous and strange.

Rosa sur Reuse is beautiful and completely other-worldly, it is enticing and borders on the edge of way too much yet always remains perfectly blended and disarming. I think that because Liz Zorn is an artist too, that she feels things in an artistic way could be why my mind jumps to art when I’m wearing her creation. That she takes the same palette of notes as every other perfumer and creates this magical scent, something that speaks to me and moves me from such a physical primal level all the way to my art infested brain is prett incredible. Rosa sur Reuse always feels like an old friend and a new love.

So though I’ve talked about Rosa sur Reuse before I really wanted to record my joy today and share it with you.

Salvador Dali

Salvidor Dali Galatea of the Spheres WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Salvador Dali Lincoln_in_Dalivision WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Salvidor Dali The Burning Giraffe WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Salvador_Dali Illumined_Pleasure WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Rosa sur Reuse by Liz Zorn for SOIVOHLE 2012

Rosa Sur Reuse SoivohlePhoto Stolen SOIVOHLE

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tuberose, red rose, red berries, parma violet, jasmine, lily, lilac, orchid, oakmoss, vanilla, woody notes, musk

Sadly Liz has discontinued Rosa sur Reuse but I stockpiled a whole load of it and feel able to spritz with abandon. It’s a peculiar, particular joy when you spray a fragrance that was never a mainstream blockbuster because the chances of finding more are so slim. So when I do wear Rosa sur Reuse I feel as if I am gifting myself this joy, a real gift to myself that takes little more than the press of a nozzle and a deep breath.

Do you have a fragrance that works like this for you?
Portia x

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

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Post by Poodle

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I love listening to the rain on a summer night. I love the morning after even more. I often step outside in the morning and just take a few deep breaths. In those early moments I feel as though I can smell all of nature. The sun begins to peek through the clouds, everything is still wet, and the summer warmth amplifies all the aromas. I can smell all the lush green leaves. The loamy wet soil smells fresh and new. There’s a damp, mossy smell but it’s like the rain has washed away that mustiness that you sometimes smell on hot, humid days. Instead the air is sweet and fresh. I can smell flowers but the rain has almost blurred their scents. As the sun rises higher things begin to warm and dry. Slowly the aroma of warming woods and earth pushes through the fresh green of the morning. I decide it’s time to step away from the quiet beauty of the morning and get started with my day.

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

Bergamoss Aftelier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, wild sweet orange
Heart: Peach, citronellol, nutmeg
Base: Oakmoss, flouvre absolute, coumarin, antique civet

That’s what I thought of when I smelled Bergamoss for the first time.

Bergamoss is the latest release from Mandy Aftel. I admit when I saw it was a chypre I was worried. Often they leave me smelling like I’ve spent too much time in a damp cellar. Not so with Bergamoss. It’s mossy, lush, bright and green, with just enough warmth and earthiness to keep it interesting. Bergamot and orange give it sparkle. Citronellol from scented geraniums gives the fragrance that herbal yet slightly rosy scent the plants are known for. Nutmeg and civet add depth and keep things from smelling too clean and oakmoss adds that classic chypre complexity.

Bergamoss Aftelier glamour_garden liudochka DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

Bergamoss is beautifully blended. Yes, you can pick out notes but the overall effect on me is a soft blur of scent. Longevity might be an issue. One would need to reapply through the day I think but this is a solid perfume and one of the joys is in the application. Unlike a spray you choose exactly where to anoint yourself with it. Also, like most fragrances in that format, it’s not something that’s going to project across the room. I would say it’s more of a personal scent. The only people that would smell this on me are those I allow to get “thisclose”.

Bergamoss Aftelier ThisClose WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Knowing my love of big perfumes I was shocked to find myself happily huffing my wrist not caring that I wasn’t sharing my fragrance with the world. Sometimes you just don’t want to share and just want to be alone with your thoughts. Bergamoss is a scent of quiet beauty. It’s not going to shout to be heard. It has plenty to say but you need to take a quiet moment to listen.

Further reading: Now Smell This and I Scent You A Day
Aftelier has Bergamoss from $6

Do you wear solid perfumes? What’s your favorite perfume for quiet moments?
Poodle xx

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi for Tiziana Terenzi 2013

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Post by Trésor

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There are a few occasions…let’s face it…many occasions where instead of craving restrained grace or meticulously polished oeuvre I want to smell of everything; all the notes, all the flowers, all of them and right now. Every once and a little while I will be perusing the online shops and come across a potion with a labyrinthine list of notes and my heart goes aflutter, my resolve all but disappears and without warning I have a blind bought bottle of some mystery fragrance with a bazillion notes to positively douse myself in upon it’s arrival. My most recent discovery has been a little potion from the Italian house of Tiziana Terenzi that goes by the name of Maremma, otherwise known as the next stop on my journey to unapologetic fragrant hedonism.

Maremma by Tiziana Terenzi 2013

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi

Maremma Tiziana Terenzi FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bitter Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Black Currant, Holm Oak Acorn
Heart: Angelica, Orris Root, Agarwood, Lotus Wood, Cumin, Honey
Base: Patchouli, Cocoa Powder, Sandalwood, Cistus Labdanum, Amber Crystals, Rosewood

The opening sequence of Maremma is a story of luxuriant, utterly unctuous cocoa bathed in the glimmering chartreuse radiance of a rather full-bodied bergamot. The cocoa is sweet, but not deliriously so, pirouetting gracefully as an haute confection rather than weighing the composition down or making it register as exceedingly opaque. The florid, almost banana-like creaminess of ylang ylang along with her intrinsic powderiness infuses the atmosphere, veiling the composition in a scintillating gossamer haze of delicate, flavescent powder. The subtle subversion of agarwood and velvet patchouli lurk beneath, never truly allowing Maremma to reach the point of effervescence, instead working harmoniously to temper a degree of saccharinity which might otherwise seem overwhelming.

Maremma Tiziana Terenzi Iris_orientalis WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Ascending from the murky depth of these two notes is a glorious bouquet of buttery iris and silken jasmine, each releasing their precious aroma in tender undulations; adding yet another fragrant layer to this beguiling brew. The delectable stickiness of blackcurrant jam alongside just a kiss of glistening, aureate honey affords a particular density to the composition; an effortless marriage and flawless synchronicity. As the composition begins to dry down the creaminess observed in the incipience begins to intensify and is joined by delicate tendrils of clean skin musk and a crystalline vision of amber. It is this stage of the fragrance that happens to be my favourite and luckily (for me, at least) it’s the one that lasts the longest. A gentle hologram of palisander and sandalwood flickers in the distance and the ghosts of what came before radiate their blessings down softly down from above. This impeccably cozy aura lasts and lasts (and lasts) until finally it fades into all but nothing.

Maremma Tiziana Terenzi hard_wood_texture_floor DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

When it comes to sillage Maremma’s got it in the bag, it is an extrait de parfum packaged in a spray atomizer so you can just imagine the sort of projection you would get with something like this. It’s not so dramatic that they’ll smell you in the next city over but it’s most certainly not the first thing I would reach for if subtlety were my endgame. The longevity with Maremma is out of this world; I could still detect it on my skin 24 hours after my initial application. That’s pretty freaking phenomenal if you ask me, especially for someone who’s skin eats perfume like it’s breakfast.

Maremma Tiziana Terenzi Kitchen Sink GeographPhoto Stolen Geograph

I would urge you to give Maremma a go if you’re the sort who is into densely populated fragrances or have affection for things like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid, Van Cleef and Arpel’s Precious Oud or even Dior’s Poison. I think you may just find yourself with a brand new lemming if you do.

Further reading: The Scented Apprentice
LuckyScent has $145/100ml
First In Fragrance has €135/100ml

So, my darlings, what are your favourite everything-but-the-kitchen-sink fragrances?

Until next time,

Trésor xo

Kiki by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo (EdP, VdE, Ex)

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Lavender? Free Your Mind.

.vero.profumo.

KIKI Eau de Parfum 2010
KIKI Voile d´Extrait 2013 All by Vero Kern.
KIKI Extrait 2007

A Tale of Two Kikis

Cacatua_leadbeateri_-SW_Queensland-8Photo Stolen Wikipedia

The first Kiki in my life was Jack’s pet parrot from Enid Blyton´s “Adventure” series. Kiki is a standard feature in each novel providing both comic relief and as a saviour from tight situations. Kiki has an enormous reserve of phrases and strange noises. I loved these books and they remain a part of an England that once was. The illustrations were done by Stuart Tresilian a British artist and illustrator. Along with Blyton´s Adventure Series he also illustrated Rudyard Kipling´s Animal Stories and a Mowgli stories. This is not the Kiki referenced for Vero Kern´s three Kiki fragrances.

Vero Kern Kiki Vero Profumo 2015Photo Donated Vero Kern

Vero Profumo´s Kiki is named as a tribute to Alice Ernestine Prin (1901 – 1953), most often known as Kiki de Montparnasse. Embracing the single name “Kiki” she became a fixture in the Montparnasse social scene in Paris and popular artist´s model. She gained experience when she was only fourteen, posing nude for sculptors. Her companion for most of the 1920´s was Man Ray, the American photographer and painter. Kiki is such a fascinating woman I can only encourage you to take some time to discover her.

Kiki by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo

Kiki – A Sorcerer’s Lavender

CQ Vero Milan 2013 #2Vero & Val

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Citruses, Lavender oil, Black currant
Heart: Lavender absolute, Geranium
Base: Patchouli, Cedar, Opoponax, Caramel, Musk

Kiki was the last of the Vero Profumos to creep its way under my skin, but the first bottle to be emptied. More than half way through the Voile and on the second Extrait. I hate lavender. But there are exceptions to every rule. Forget every preconceived idea of lavender and free your mind.

kiki eau de parfum Vero Profumo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

KIKI EdP. Sensual. Erotic passion fruit. Desirable. Voluptuous. Green lavender whipped into a caramelized patchouli. Luscious. Absolutely fabulous.

Kiki Voile d`Extrait Vero Profumo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

KIKI Voile d’Extrait. Seriously beautiful. Elegant. Uplifting. Self assured. Revitalizing. Velvety. Amethyst lavender. Related but quite different to the EdP.

kiki Vero Profumo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

KIKI Extrait. Intimate. Warm. Royal purple lavender. Musky. Opoponax whisps. A hint of amber making it denser than the Voile. Magnificent.
(It is to be noted that the Voiles although sharing most of the Extrait DNA – are not quite the same. Not all secrets are shared. )

Further reading: Smelly Thoughts and Chemist In A Bottle
Bloom, First In Fragrance and LuckyScent all carry Vero Profumo
Surrender To Chance has Kiki EdP & Extrait

These are not your grandmother´s lavender bag.

Kiki Vero ProfumoPhoto Donated Val

Have you tried the Kiki range? Do you have a lavender you love?

Violaceous Bussis.
CQ

Calvin Klein Obsession Woman & Man

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Post by Azar

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Hello APJ,

This summer the Pacific Northwest USA has been uncharacteristically hot and dry. To make matters worse, less than 30% of the homes have central air-conditioning. Ours is one of the hot ones! I have yet to acclimate to the 95-100 degree F temperatures that continue to blister the foothills of the Cascade Mountains.

In an attempt to deal with the sweltering heat I pulled out my big, refrigerated bottles of Italian colognes. Sadly, these refreshing fragrances have done little to alleviate the effects of the breathtaking temperatures. The alcohol evaporates too quickly to be effective, leaving not a trace of comforting scent on my skin.

Calvin Klein Obsession

Calvin Klein Obsession for Woman by Jean Guichard 1985

Obsession Calvin Klein women FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top:  Green notes, mandarin orange, vanilla, peach, basil, bergamot, lemon
Heart:  Spices, coriander, sandalwood, orange blossom, jasmine, oakmoss, cedar, rose
Base:  Amber, musk, civet, vetiver, incense

Sweating over a solution, I recalled a recent comment by Cookie Queen suggesting the use of big orientals in hot climates.  Her timely advice and Anne-Marie’s recent post inspired me to dig out the squat, kidney shaped bottle of the original Calvin Klein Obsession for Women from its cool, dark tomb in the lower floor storage.  Even though I had a vague recollection of Calvin Klein Obsession for Women as nothing more than a spicy cliché typical of many 80s bombastic orientals, I was desperate enough to give it another try.  I resurrected Calvin Klein Obsession for Women from the nether regions and carried her up into the bright and toasty upstairs living area.  I gave myself a quick splash and WHAMMO…!  The power of Obsession was so uplifting and distracting that I totally forgot the scorching heat.  The juice in the old bottle had aged to perfection and provided me with a much-needed respite from the stagnant summer air.  The overheated atmosphere of the house also revealed the beauty and complexity of Obsession.  After 30 years of neglect I was finally enjoying fragrance notes I had never detected before, including almost everything on Fragrantica’s list. I fell madly for my old cologne and hurried to purchase more vintage Obsession for Women. 

Male_Underwear_Model_John_Quinlan_in_Calvin_KleinPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Calvin Klein Obsession for Men by Bob Slattery 1986

Obsession for Men Calvin Klein FrsagranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top:  Tangerine/mandarin, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, coriander, lavender, cinnamon
Heart:  Nutmeg, carnation, jasmine, sage, Brazilian rosewood, pine, myrrh, red berries
Base:  Amber, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, vanilla, vetiver

I was even able to find the original 1986 Calvin Klein Obsession for Men and imagine that almost every element of CK Obsession for Men (and for Women) is synthetic. The jasmine in my vintage version is probably hedione (methyl dihydrojasmonate) and the musk is most likely civetone. For me Obsession for Men packs the distracting punch of the distaff version and is refreshing as well.  I also find CK Obsession for Men to be incredibly sexy!  My reaction is probably related to hedione.  Recent research suggests that this old aroma-chemical activates a specific region of the hypothalamus associated with the release of sex hormones, especially in women.  In other words, hedione might actually turn women on!

Amanda_Bach,_a_sexy_fashion_model_iconPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

But there is MORE:

Animal behaviorists in South America routinely use Calvin Klein Obsession for Men to lure jaguars to camera traps in the jungle and zookeepers keep their feline charges active and entertained with CK Obsession for Men.

Further reading: Now Smell This and I Smell Therefore I Am
Fragrance Shop has $26/110ml
My Perfume Samples has $2/ml to $7/5ml

I’m wondering if YOU love or hate the various Obsessions? Do you ever wear heavy orientals in the summer heat? Have you tried the Sex Panther fragrance referred to above?

In closing – some like it hot…so be cool!

Azar xx

CLINIQUE 3-Step Skin Care System

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Post by A F Beauty

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The past month I have been trialling the Clinique Three Step Program. I’ve never used the proper three step program before mainly because the cleansing step always used to be a soap bar which I’ve never been keen on. The pack now contains a liquid cleanser, so I gave it a go.

CLINIQUE 3-Step Skin Care System

clinique 3 step cleanser SephoraPhoto Stolen Sephora

I’ll start with the moisturiser. This is a reformulation of the original, now called Dramatically Different Moisturising Lotion+. They also have a gel formulation. My Clinique skin-type at the time of purchase was Type 2 which recommends the Lotion+. I like this moisturiser a lot. The texture is light, but the moisturisation level good. It’s OK under makeup, but it wouldn’t be enough for night time (for my skin). It is fragrance free, which is OK but either I am heavy handed or they are light on the pack size – the 30ml didn’t last an entire month for me using the system twice daily.

Next the Clarifying Lotion. With this I am very much in two minds. The Type 2 lotion contains menthol which I dislike at the best of times. It smells very chemically and menthol-y. I used it as instructed for most of the trial, but I have noticed towards the end my skin is more sensitive to other products – perhaps because this one is doing the job so well in exfoliating. The intent of this product is to tighten pores and clean the residue off the skin but I noticed as I swept the lotion over my skin it goes slightly pink and feels tight. I don’t like this. Objectively I can’t tell if my pores are any better – I think they are slightly – but is it worth it? If I’m honest with myself, I wouldn’t use this particular clarifying lotion again – I may go and check the others to see if they are of comparable formulation. For my skin I would prefer an exfoliating cleanser, either with texture or AHA/BHA and if absolutely necessary, a more soothing toner – but most likely I’d skip a toner. (The Clinique SA gave me a sharp look when I told her this!)

Lastly the cleanser. This time a gel liquid soap – very thick and glossy, needs a fair bit of water to break down and emulsify. Once it’s done it cleans well – is fragrance free like the moisturiser and the little tube in the sample pack goes a long way. I don’t think it is necessarily better than any other specific foaming cleanser, but it’s good enough. My skin felt pleasantly clean but not tight after using it.

Overall, I’d stick with the moisturiser, I wouldn’t say no to the cleanser and I’d not go back to the toner. The trial pack is a good way to see how your skin will respond to the three-step or to re-try some of Clinique’s products. Do you use any of the Clinique skincare products? Anyone else use a different Clarifying lotion? I’d like to hear reviews on the other three versions.

Clinique Australia has the Gift Set Sampler $39

AF Beauty xx

Side note: Some of Clinique’s website reviews are based on testers who are provided the products at no cost, although they do disclose this in the review. I purchased the Clinique three-step set with my own funds and the review is my opinion only.

Youth-Dew by Joséphine Catapano for Estée Lauder 1953

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Post by Anne-Marie

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Youth-Dew by Joséphine Catapano for Estée Lauder 1953

Sometimes, a smear of Youth-Dew bath oil is all I need. Classic fragrances like this offer not just grandeur and glamour, but a sense of completeness. Symphonically rich, they unfurl their loveliness hour after hour and complete your day with a contented smile as they fade away.

Youth-Dew by Estée Lauder 1953

Youth-Dew by Joséphine Catapano

Youth-Dew Estée Lauder FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, orange, spices, peach, bergamot, narcissus, lavender
Heart: Cinnamon, cassia, orchid, jasmine, cloves, ylang-ylang, rose, lily-of-the-valley, spicy notes
Base: Tolu balsam, Peru balsam, amber, patchouli, musk, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver, incense

At the jump you can read a lovely APJ review of Youth-Dew

What always intrigues me is the divided reputation that Youth-Dew has. ‘Putrid!’ some people cry. ‘Offensive!’ say others. ‘Nasty old lady!’.

I don’t mind if people dislike Youth-Dew. We can’t all be the same. But that ‘old lady’ tag that really annoys. It’s not just that some people are apparently unable to imagine a day when they, too, might be old. It also suggests that in western societies we harbour a deep-seated disdain – almost fear – of the elderly woman as a cultural figure. She’s a witch. She’s a harpy. She is a threat. She smells.

It’s ironic for a fragrance called ‘Youth-Dew’. Famously, it was released originally as a bath oil apparently in the hope that women who were tired of waiting for their menfolk to buy them perfume would happily buy a bathroom product for themselves. Within that innocent, bathroom-blue packaging lies a deep, dark scent of considerable allure if you can pull it off.

Youth-Dew Estée Lauder Gerome_baigneuses WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

An early ad for Youth-Dew features a naked sylph of a woman about to step into a marble-edged bath, and we are encouraged to ‘Know the secret of the bath’. A later ad featured the divine Pauline Porizkova dressed for evening, and it proclaims Youth-Dew as ‘Simply the sexiest fragrance ever’.

Youth-Dew Estée Lauder Fragrantica 1Ads Stolen FragranticaYouth-Dew Estée Lauder Fragrantica 2

Youth-Dew is so good it is not surprising that women have taken it as a signature scent. ‘Women still like to feel beautiful, pampered and loved, and that is what Youth-Dew is all about’, said Estee Lauder. She respected her customers, and for their loyalty gave them fragrances that were great value for money. A few dabs or sprays would last all day.

So, perhaps it’s inevitable after all that we associate Youth-Dew with older women. Although my mother’s signature scent was Yardley’s April Violets, in her late 50s she took up Youth-Dew with a passion. Dear reader, never were there two fragrances more different than April Violets and Youth-Dew, but Mum must have loved Youth-Dew because she went through several bottles of the oil before finally reverting to her old favourite.

Youth-Dew Estée Lauder Knut_Ekwall WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Me, I’ve given away my bottle of the spray perfume because it’s just too opulent for daily use, and the bath oil will do me. A few drops in a hot running bath is the best form of winter stress relief I know, bar none.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Yesterday’s Perfume
FragranceNet has $41/70ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml

Over to you. Worn any ‘old lady’ fragrances lately??

And keep spraying ‘til next time!

Anne-Marie xx

Gabriella’s Parfumerie Generale Picks

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Post by Gabriella

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Hi Perfumed Peeps!

The other week when I was rummaging through my samples, it occurred to me that I hadn’t done many posts on Pierre Guillame’s Parfumerie Generale line. I’m not really sure why as Tubereuse Couture was my very second niche full bottle after falling down the rabbit hole following the discovery of Lys Mediterranee by Frederic Malle.

I’ve smelt quite a few of the PG line and have found a lot of favourites, to the extent that once I’m in a PG mood, I think I could be happy with just a few bottles from the line and nothing else.

Pierre Guillame FacebookPhoto Stolen Facebook

It seems that I’m in good company with my thinking as Miss P just recently posted about Pierre Guillame’s creations over at the Posse, asking readers for suggestions from the line. So, I’d like to chip in on the conversation and offer up my top three picks other than Tubereuse Couture:

Madeleine’s Parfumerie Generale Picks

Gardenia Grand Soir Parfumerie Generale FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Gardenia Grand Soir 2010

Fragrantica gives these notes in one line:
Gardenia, sandalwood

I think the name “Grand Soir” led to a lot of confusion and disappointment from the blogosphere when this was released as people were expecting something very rich and opulent along the lines of Tom Ford’s Velvet Gardenia. What you get here, however, is one of the lightest and prettiest gardenias I’ve come across. The gardenia is gauzy and a little bit salty, akin to smelling the white blooms under the shower of surf spray on a hot summer’s day. The subtly luminous white floral accord is underscored by creamy and milky sandalwood, giving some depth and drama to the mix. A pretty and carefree blend that is still elegant.

Further reading: The Non Blonde and CaFleureBon
Luckyscent has $125/50ml
Surrender to Chance starts at $10/ml

Jardins de Kerylos Parfumerie Generale FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Jardins de Kerylos 2006

Fragrantica gives these notes in one line:
Fig leaf, herbal notes, sycamore

I really don’t usually care for fig fragrances and yet I love this one. But at first, Jardins de Kerylos was such a big scary green monster on my skin, I was a little thrown. After the initial sniff, I went round my business, getting changed for dinner and called my Mum. Whilst talking to her, I kept getting distracted by this wonderfully green, dewy, fruity expansiveness of a scent. What makes Jardins work for me is that its not a sweet milky fig like a lot of others, but a very dry fig scent with beautiful lushness and verdancy.

Parfumerie Generale starts at €65/30ml
Surrender to Chance starts at $5/ml

 Papyrus de Ciane Parfumerie Generale FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Papyrus de Ciane 2010

Fragrantica gives these notes in one line:
Galbanum, broom, grass, oakmoss, musk and powdery notes

Speaking of verdancy, this one has it in spades. Papyrus de Ciane starts with a dry bitter green burst of galbanum, evoking the galbanum lade classics of old. The grass note lends some crispness and a slight pepperiness to the mix. Papyrus de Ciane stays all bright sparkly green for a while before the damp, moist sweetness of the mousse de saxe comes to the fore, evoking Caron’s classic Nuit de Noel. The mossy becomes slightly more powdery, offset by the sharp brightness of the galbanum, which evokes staring into a dark forest on a bright day through green coloured gauze. A tremendously beautiful modern green scent for those who like galbanum heavy scents such as Vent Vert and Bandit.

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Smellythoughts
First in Fragrance starts at €95/50ml
Surrender to Chance starts at $6/ml

 Pierre Guillame Facebook 1Photo Stolen Facebook

Do you have any favourites from the PG line?

With much love till next time!

M x

Clay Masks for Your Face and Body

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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Hi Perfume Junkies,

Clay masks can really help improve the look and function of your skin and can even help you feel fresher and more energised like you’ve had a holiday.

Clay is marvellous! It’s nature is to absorb impurities, and I remember once a therapist telling me that clay works better and is more active when it’s wet. This means that if you’re giving yourself a clay face mask, when it starts to dry, moisten it with a mist of water or hydrosol, or simply place a wet facecloth over it and press into your face. I’m not sure if she is right and I haven’t found any information that supports or negates this claim, so why not experiment yourself? I do know that when you leave a clay mask to dry, it definitely feels like it is tightening your skin and giving you a bit of a lift.

Clay Masks for Your Face and Body

mud wet dietmaha PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

“In general, topical application of clay on the skin will be rejuvenating, clarifying, cooling, help cell renewal, lessen the appearance of spider veins and varicose veins and make you feel like you’ve had a mini holiday.” Suzanne R Banks

Clay is used to:

* reduce the appearance of small veins

* cool your skin

* absorb impurities from the outer layers of your skin

* cool and extract bacteria from acne

* tighten pores

* treat injuries when used as a poltice

As it comes from the earth it is a great way to help someone who is having a hard time emotionally. It will help ground them and connect their energy to mother earth. You could put some clay in a bath, or do a mask on the hands or face, even the feet. Or a foot bath with clay and essential oils – perfect for an elderly or incapacitated person.

White Clay

* gentle face masks and gentle body masks

* in baths

* in body scrubs

* as an absorptive soft powder on a cut or graze

* for eczema and psoriasis – especially for kids

* for rashes or skin disorders on dogs I either just sprinkle it on dry or mix into a smooth paste

Clay Mask SharonaGott FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Pink Clay

* this is my favourite face clay – face mask when the skin is red or for sufferers of rosacea

* face masks for eczema or psoriasis on the face

* anytime you need a good facial cleanse, and to reduce puffiness

Green Clay

* acne on the face or body either with a mask or just a little dotted on a spot

* face or body mask for oily skin

* body mask when you are doing a detox to help with the processing of toxins out of your system

* cellulite (it does help but I haven’t found anything yet to get rid of it completely – ugh!)

Yellow Clay

* face and body masks and to add to body scrubs particularly when the skin is dull and needs energy – it really brightens the skin

Red Clay

* this one is great for spider veins, red skin, broken capillaries

Clay Festival Shawn Perez FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Full clay body masks will give you an all-over spa treatment feeling, but beware you must wrap yourself in towels and/or blankets as your body temperature can drop very quickly. You are emersing yourself in extracts from the earth so be careful. Shower off or soak in a bath for a complete rejuvenation.

Poultices and spot mask treatments can work well on the body for healing too, for example, a monthly cellulite mask on your thighs can help move lymph and help add to drainage. Wrap your legs in plastic wrap to keep in the heat, then relax for 15 minutes either showering off or soaking in a bath.

For bruises or sprains a clay mask may help by soothing the site and acting as an anti-infammatory agent.

Choose your essential oils wisely and don’t use too much!

In 2 teaspoons of clay for a face mask only add 1 or 2 drops of essential oil.

For 3/4 cup of clay for a leg mask only add about 8 drops of essential oil.

You’ll need about 4 cups of clay for your body – add 15 drops of essential oil

white-clay chilcutte PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

There is so much more to write about with clay as most comes from France and is called “Argile”. Just dive in and have a go making a mask for yourself and see how it turns out.

Remember to treat yourself first, then everyone will benefit.

Suzanne R Banks x

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Thaleia by IME Natural Perfume

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

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Post by Willa Zheng

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Thesis writing is really boring, tedious work. To get myself in the right frame of mind to sit down and slog it out, I have to play really depressing melancholic music [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KylMqxLzNGo] – and calm my monkey brain from turning to the internet for blissful distractions at the first mental roadbump. Back in the days when I was a law student, I’d read unhappy 19th century novels to prep my mind for the cerebral aerobics ahead.

As most of my personal frag collection distract and uplift me with their beauty, I typically stay away from fragrances during exam or assignment writing crunch times.

For a long time, my study slog of choice had been Roger & Gallet Eau de Gingembre. But as it’s winter and there’s a certain chilly bite in the air, I find it’s not cutting the mustard any more. I need something more robust, to grab me by the back of my neck and force me to type type type the words I need onto the page. I am looking for something gloomy but not insipid.

Thaleia by IME Natural Perfume

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IME gives these featured accords in one line:
Lime, Litsea Cubeba, Citronella, Pine, Geranium, Patchouli

My work scent at the moment is Ime natural perfume’s Thaleia []. Natural perfume? I can see you rolling your eyes. But hear me out, fellow fragrance connoisseur. All of Ime’s natural fragrances are actually worked on by a professional and skilled local perfumer with over 40 years of experience in the industry. The founder and creative director, Tonia Walker, uses her natural therapy background to create a range of perfumes that have notes that affect and alter our moods. In essence, Ime is an aromatherapy-fine fragrance hybrid. Emotion changing scents that don’t collapse or become undetectable half an hour later. They also comply with IFRA – which is no small feat since IFRA has restricted the use of so many natural materials.

Thaleia by IME Natural Perfume Sweet-lime WikiPediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Thaleia is fresh, lime-like, but has a herbal naturopathic undertone (Patchouli, Geranium, Pine) that really grounds me mentally. The top notes are reminiscent of Jurlique’s now discontinued Lemon-Lime Hydrating Essence. It’s like holding a fresh lime in your hand, peeling back the green skin, getting squirts of the green zest, then bitter white pith, to reveal the centre of the fruit as damp dirt-like patchouli. The overall texture is oily and powdery, so the Proustian effect is like walking into a dark, candle-lit 90s-era Perfect Potion store with citrusy essentials oils burning in oil burners on the counter. It has quite a New Age feeling – which is fitting for the Greek goddess theme that Ime tailors each fragrance around.

Thaleia by IME Natural Perfume Aurora_Greek_Goddess WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Very linear, with moderate sillage. Even its the drydown, Thaleia is a green, citronol, patchouli scent. A two squirt blast on my neck region can keep me working for 10hrs +. Not bad for a natural, heh?

IME Natural Perfumes have $59.95/30ml and a great sample deal

Now tell me, fellow APJ-er, do you have a ‘deep thinking’ scent?
Willa Zheng xx