Review

Habit Rouge by Jean-Paul Guerlain 2003 (Or: 1965)

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Post by Liam

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Hello fantastic fragrance heads,

It’s a pleasure to meet you all. I’m Liam and I love to smell anything and everything, which I’m sure everyone else loves to do also! Appropriately, for my first post on this marvelous website I felt it was only appropriate I talk about the introductory Guerlain fragrance that changed my life – Habit Rouge (EdT). It’s really bloody good. It’s novel, it’s historical, it’s a reference fragrance! When I become king of the world my first order of business is to rename Habit Rouge to ‘Happiness’.

Habit Rouge by Jean-Paul Guerlain 2003 (Or: 1965)

Habit Rouge EdT Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

BaseNotes gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Rosewood, Basil, Pimento
Heart: Sandal, Carnation, Patchouli, Cedar, Rose, Cinnamon
Base: Vanilla, Amber, Moss, Leather, Benzoin, Labdanum, Olibanum

Habit Rouge embodies effortlessly what I love in a fragrance. It’s somewhat pompous without being obvious or nauseating. It has a gentlemanly quality that is comforting, very exciting and delicious! It opens like a lemony orange soda with a sherbet-like crispness. It’s a citrus accord moulded with opopanax and sweet and sticky tree resins. It’s incredibly toothsome, and has these light floral nuances that tickle the feminine side… Carnation and rose especially.

My favourite thing with Habit Rouge is the fact that it was (according to Guerlain) the first male fragrance to use a heavy dosage of vanilla. I love vanilla – I mean, who dare say that vanilla is a boring ingredient? The vanilla stems from Shalimar also by Guerlain, but in this fragrance the vanilla presents itself with less of a coumarin spike and more of a refined stickiness softened with discreet herbs. Vanilla, benzoin and a touch of orange blossom create the Guerlain Marshmallow accord, which is obvious… A tart and somewhat sugary smell reminiscent of white marshmallow.

Habit Rouge EdT Guerlain White_Marshmallows WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Subdued modulations of leather are to be found here. The carnal quality is lost, or at least pushed to the very back whilst a buttery and more rounded form of supple leather can be smelt. The underlying oriental spiciness differs heavily from the female archetype, and the oriental category has been made for men.

Habit Rouge is effervescent like lemonade and trails like sweet orange dust. It’s slightly poignant at stages with a gloomy quality, but I’ve found this often entails a sense of complexity. Habit Rouge is perfectly crafted for a man with a sincere and dapper facet, yet also has a mild primal quality that suggests something a little more after that.

Have you seen the advertisement with the red whip?! Grr that’s hot!

“Non, Habit Rouge c’est comme les petits pains,” — [Habit Rouge is] a French institution as constant as croissants

Habit Rouge has a slightly above average longevity and a mild sillage on my skin. It’s inoffensive and universal. You can wear it whenever, wherever and however. Work, rest, play.

Habit Rouge EdT Guerlain Braekeleer Wikipedia.jpgPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Now Smell This and Memory of Scent
FragranceNet has $45/50ml (before coupon)
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Thanks for reading! For more please check out my site Olfactics. My journey is still in my infancy! Can you think of any other male oriented orientals? Spare me the Paco Rabanne pl-ease! See ya later!

Liam 🙂

Weddings – My Top 5 Perfume Oils For Brides – Part 1

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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Essential oils are great for anybody to use but there are some stand-out oils for brides.

Why?

The wedding planning can be stressful and it can also take up a lot of time. Of course it’s different for everyone, and whether you have a casual beach wedding or a party in a 5 star resort, you do have to think about a lot of fine details. You are also entering into a contract with your partner, and quite possibly changing your life forever. You are entering a new phase of your life too, with lots of new family members you are required to deal with. There can be many issues surrounding your wedding and marriage, and essential oils can be your scented support system on the journey.

Essential oils not only smell beautiful, they can help minimise stress and help you focus on the things that really matter – like your health and happiness rather than the seating plan, or the boyfriend of his friend who you don’t really like but have to invite anyway. You get the drift.

 Weddings – My Top 5 Perfume Oils For Brides – Part 1

Essential oils work in an holistic way with your own energy, emotions and thoughts to provide a connection to the divine spirit within you.

Bride_with_bouquetPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

1.Wedding Perfume Oils – Neroli

Neroli is a traditional oil for brides as it’s best qualities are those of relieving anxiety and tension – the flowers were strewn over the marital bed to ease tension, and included in the wedding bouquet to help you stay calm. The word Neroli comes from the name of an Italian princess who brought the oil into popular culture a few hundred years ago, so it’s actually quite a new oil to the field of Aromatherapy. Many oils and tinctures of plants have been around for thousands of years, and this is how we know they work.

Neroli is a wonderful oil to use as a perfume straight from the bottle from the moment your wedding fever kicks in. Use it when you are stressed about something not going the way you want it, or simply as a scent to help you cope with any mild anxiety. it is a beautiful scent to wear on your wedding day to give you a stunning, floral perfume and support your emotions and the butterflies in your stomach. This oil is an expensive oil and usually comes already diluted in jojoba to lower costs. The label will say “Neroli oil in 3% Jojoba and you can see my article for more info on 3% blends in jojoba.

Men tend to love this oil too, as it has a bitterness about it even though it’s a floral oil. If your man is stressing try some bergamot in place of neroli to relieve stress! A drop on his solar plexus chakra wouldn’t go astray on the big day.

A_Bride_c_1895_AH_ThayerPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

 

2. Wedding Perfume Oils – Rose

Rose oil is the oil of Cleopatra – the oil of queens. It is sometimes referred to as the Queen of Oils too! Rose is the oil of loving yourself, and others. Whatever you think a Queen embodies – then so does this oil. Not only wonderful for skin, and as a regulator for heat, rose oil will bring a sense of calm and inner strength. This really is a woman’s oil. It is the essence of femininity and strength, of subtlety and fortitude.

Use rose oil during your lead-up to the wedding to help you stay centered and loving.

As for Neroli, rose will often already be diluted in 3% jojoba. Use it a perfume straight from the bottle, use it in your skincare regime in some rosehip oil and even give some the other women in your life who support you. Nurture yourself with rose oil.

Hindu_Bride,_Ahmedabad,_GujaratPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

 

3. Wedding Perfume Oils – Lavender

Lavender is the oil of calming, soothing and grounding. It brings all your scattered energy together. Lavender can be used to help induce sleep, to use in a bath when you a feeling overwhelmed, and to vapourise around you when you need to make difficult decisions. if you could only have one oil in your life, I suggest it would be lavender, as it has so many uses. It is the perfect first aid all because it helps cuts and wounds heal, helps burns lose their sting and is perfect for shock. Take some lavender with you to the wedding and have a huge sniff straight from the bottle to give you a blast of solidarity. Share it amongst the bridesmaids and if anyone has a headache a drop on the temples will aid the pain.

The_Bride,_by_Julia_Margaret_CameronPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

 

4. Wedding Perfume Oils – Geranium

This oil is made from the flower and it very definitely a strong floral oil! Geranium is another good oil for skincare -face and body. It is an oil of happiness and playfulness and is bright and full. I use geranium oil when I feel I need a boost, and when I need a bit of stability in my emotions. It’s great for brides who are quite emotional and teary and will help you as you plan your wedding – when you need help looking for the fun and joy in the process. It’s easy to get bogged down in the “doing” of the wedding but it’s just as important to enjoy and be present in this process too. Have fun with geranium oil and it’s floral cheeriness.

Bride_with_Parasol-_AmarellaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

5. Wedding Perfume Oils – Frankincense

Frankincense is the oil of breathing deeply. By taking deep, slow breaths you will automatically relax. Vapourise frankincense oil in your home for relaxation and as an oil to help you connect more deeply with your spirit. Traditionally used in the Catholic church to inspire the congregation reach a meditative and spiritual state, it is also used as a symbol of faithfulness to God, and in worship rituals. This oil is also good in skincare and is particularly indicated for more mature or dry skins. Once again add some of this stunning oil into your rosehip oil and use a a facial moisturiser. I use rosehip everyday on my face and I couldnt recommend anything better and more simple. When you add some essential oils to it, it becomes a powerful softening and nourishing treatment.

Remember to treat yourself first , then everyone will benefit.

Suzanne R Banks XXX

Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

copyright suzanne

 

Revelation! My new book out now

Please check out my new book REVELATION! – Reveal Your Destiny with Essential Oils

Amazon USA      Amazon AU      Amazon UK

 

Une Fleur de Cassie by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2000

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Post by Sister Mary Magdelene, Patron Saint of Perfumers

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Again we gather in awe and reverence to give thanks for our inspiration – perfume. Today I am wondering am I more than usually sensitive to being moved in my soul by artistic creation? Because scents preserve us, I have had quite a response to this divine composition. Although in faith, given the path I have trod in life, there is no doubt my spirit is unusually sensitive…

 Une Fleur de Cassie by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2000

Une Fleur de Cassie Frederic Malle FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one linew:
Mimosa, jasmine, black locust, rose, carnation, sandalwood, vanilla, cassis

Let us spray!

Like the flight of an albatross, this one. Such heavy molecules to become airborne – and it’s an effort – but after some lumbering along the ground and some ungainly flapping it finds my thermals and flies!

And there it is, aloft. Gliding for what seems an unreasonable time, this beauty is such a resolved whole it seems that evolutionary forces are responsible in bringing about an entity so fit for its purpose.

Une Fleur de Cassie Frederic Malle Albatross WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Its purpose? To soar. That it brings me pleasure through its being seems an irrelevant aside to its joyous existence. Certainly not all its aspects are uncomplicated or simply pleasing, but there is much simple pleasure herein. It rises far above mere prettiness; I would certainly not call it accessible.

That I am by turns and simultaneously aware of the details and the whole is a brilliant work of balance. I am aware of an effortless grace, of a creaminess, of a softness, of an intimate warm animal smell, of a distant elegance. From some angles I see that extraordinary wingspan, if I turn my head I catch the beaked profile or the curve of primary feathers, the tucked webbed feet that indicate this bird can (but doesn’t often) come to ground or water.

Always it appears a live, breathing thing. It distills the abject magnificence of embodiment, seems connected to earth and heavens but independent of both.

Une Fleur de Cassie Frederic Malle margery_kempe WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Une Fleur de Cassie is a creation that brings me to tears with its sheer magnificence. Not brought quite undone like weeping Margery Kempe, mystic of the Middle Ages, yet I am moved by such visions and associations. Obviously *I* must take care where I wear this one as I am rendered (spiritually) raw skinned, but practically speaking this is a great one for hot weather, perhaps a little intimate for some of your workplaces, but a lovely combination of gentle, radiant and long-lasting.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Smelly Thoughts
MECCA Australia has $209/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $7/ml

Am I alone, or are there any perfumes that transport you?

In raptures,

Sister Mary Magdelene, Patron Saint of Perfumers.

Mona di Orio Discovery Set + Tasmania Photo Essay

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Post by Tina G

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Perfume choices are, by their nature, exceedingly personal. I enjoy sharing my enthusiasm for fragrance with family and friends, but how to do this in a way that lets them make their own choices is tricky. What I may recommend could be abhorrent to someone else, and I don’t want to risk putting anyone off the joys of exploring new fragrances! So, while on holiday in Australia’s largest island Tasmania with some friends, I decided to set up a perfume testing session as a bit of fun and see where it led us.

Mona di Orio Discovery Set

makethumbPhoto Stolen Peony Melbourne

I chose to take along Mona di Orio’s Discovery Pack, which is the set of eight Les Nombres d’Or line presented in 5ml roller ball applicators. Each of the eight fragrances – Cuir, Eau Absolue, Musc, Vanille, Ambre, Rose, Vétyver and Tubéreuse – were decanted into spray containers for travel.

01 - Discovery Set

Tasmania is a beautiful part of the world. The island State lies to the South-East of Australia, across the wilds of Bass Strait from Melbourne. The four of us went for a long weekend, staying on the rugged East Coast in a little stone cottage by the ocean. Yes, it was as gorgeous as it sounds! We had a great time exploring, eating, drinking, and just generally resting up. I’ve included a few photos of the trip as a taster of what we experienced, it was wonderful.

09 - the decants

For the testing, the Discovery Set was set up with fragrance strips and I explained the way fragrance works, top, mid and base notes and how perfume evolves over time, particularly on skin. We all sat down and tried each of the line. The Cuir was the least popular, with an “Oh, God, no!!” reaction being the strongest of the day! Two friends decided on what they’d like to wear the next day and give a proper run though. One friend decided to decline, as family members are particularly sensitive to chemicals and wearing perfume on a regular basis wouldn’t work for her. The fragrances chosen were Musc, and Rose. I chose Vétyver.

10 - penguin friends

We noted that all three fragrances got us through the day – at least 8 hours. The Rose was BIG on opening, a really full and rich ‘real’ rose scent. My friend was a bit worried that it would be too big, but it did settle nicely into something softer and more wearable. The Musc I had trouble smelling, but my other friend enjoyed it very much. I encouraged them both to keep sniffing through the day and see if there were any changes.

Peony Melbourne has Mona di Orio Discovery Set $145
Parfum1 has the Mona di Orio Discovery Set $145

At the end of the trip I then let them choose a small 1ml decant to take home and play with. Musc, Eau Absolue, and Vanille went to one home, Rose went to another with my encouragement of Amber, and I took back Cuir, Vétyver, and Tubéreuse – which happen to be my favourites anyway. Funny the way things work out!

Tina G

Tasmania Photo Essay

06 - Cottages

07 - Our Cottage

08 - beetroot cured salmon salad

03 - The Hazards

05 - Broken Shells

04 - Freaky

02 - Sunset

All photos donated by TinaG unless specified

 

Sacred Frankincense 1 by JoAnne Bassett 2014 + Interview

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Post by Einsof

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Hello Junkies!

My name is Einsof (eye-n-s’off) and I’d like to share a fusion of styles, mysticism and perfume with you. I recently sat down with botanical perfumer JoAnne Bassett to explore her Sacred Frankincense Collection. It comes as no surprise that speaking with JoAnne is rather like listening to your favorite Tori Amos album in that you’re going to be subject to impromptu voyages into spirituality, reincarnation and a host of muses both sacred and sensual.

“Working with some absolutes blocks the energy.” A typical Bassett-ism, there is nothing within JoAnne’s work which does not reach out to some higher purpose, “They can make the purpose of a perfume muddy, unclear or the energy simply stops flowing.” Her technical approach is intimately entwined with a higher calling. The word ‘exquisite’ floats around the room as perhaps the only synonym for the art of her craft.

Sacred Frankincense 1 JoAnne Bassett image fragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

These moments of revelation come as leaned-in, quieter tones from the sprite-like intuitive perfumer. “In the room where I blend,” JoAnne begins another such secret telling, “I have a lot of help. The plant devas, divine energies, indigenous wisdoms… and love come together in there.” After working with several clients in Saudi Arabia and parts Middle East, it seems the consummate queen of French style perfumery had found a new ‘sound’ in the voice of the Djin. “I woke up one morning and looked in the mirror- do you know I had no idea who was standing there. This energy was insistent.”

The common thread of the collection is hydro-distilled frankincense sacra from Oman and a heavy dose of the harem and Middle Eastern magic. Calling upon her extensive collection of vintage essential oils, home grown botanicals she dedicatedly tinctures and newer players such as CO2 extracted butter — JoAnne has crafted a bridge between the refined classic European perfumery with the attar laden East where aroma was ritual, “…I like the idea of worlds, old and new merging; the evolution of the raw material all in one glance.”

Sacred Frankincense 1 by JoAnne Bassett 2014

The collection is Royal Alchemy Collection, the perfume is Sacred Frankincense 1

Sacred Frankincense 1 JoAnne Bassett fragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Olibanum, moroccan rose, elemi, peru balsam, lavender, artemisia, yuzu, chamomile, lime (linden blossom

Upon application there is an immediate sense of an apricot orchard, and familiar notes; lavender & peru balsam are waving from deep within the grove. Elemi, yuzu and linden greet you with childlike glee and beckon you into the rows. Throughout wear, chamomile softened cabbage rose and rose absolute exchange faces like JoAnne and her Muses in the mirror- sometimes you can distinguish between notes and sometimes there is a completely new being in your presence.

Sacred Frankincense 1 JoAnne Bassett Apticot Orchard WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

In the center of the forest- a clearing where all flora and fauna come to pay tribute to frankincense. The jus rests here for a moment (another interesting facet of the JoAnne’s Djinic journey is a change in tempo for unfolding of the perfume)- it seems to be the moment when the florals take their final melding with the resins in preparation for dry down. Every note seems to pop out from behind a puff of frankincense- and this complex dance of synergy continues for some time.

After about 3 hours of play in this enchanted forest, you realize you may be just dancing in the mirage of the desert as a luxurious.. exquisite…dry down of softened peru balsam, rose and davana have left only a soft but definitely resinous waft of the dervishes whirling through my nose and mind. This skin souvenir will continue for hours, even though reapplication is the way of the truly natural.

Tadrart AcacusPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

“I don’t quite understand,” JoAnne says genuinely surprised, taken aback even, “Do people only pray once? Is that why they only want to spray once?” Of course, JoAnne considers the people who are attracted to her art as “Divine Clients, for whom the perfume is more than just aesthetic.” She recounts noting her observant clients wash their hands, and apply pleasing perfume (an intentional reason the client sought out JoAnne’s Custom Couture Perfume services)- a fragrant way of preparation for courting communication with the Divine.
It is in this capacity which JoAnne finds her true calling: to call upon lifetimes of aromatic memory in order assist, uplift, affect energy patterns and give genuine moments of satori to those who experience her craft. These moments of divine illumination are not meant to last… they are glimpses into our own heavenly natures.

“Do you know, I came from the world of the stock market… and I am still enriching people’s lives. What I can do for them from my blending room is not significantly different from what I did from behind a desk. I am here to be of service to my clients.” JoAnne left the stock floor to search the world’s gardens for the most exquisite, hand distilled oils and attars. Her reserve must equal that of the royalty she references in her art.

In the naturals world, JoAnne gives quite a show of sillage and longevity. There is nothing overly gendered about her work, only names and your nose will have any influence- perhaps a reason why the collection is numbered rather than titled. Sacred Frankincense 1 could be worn anywhere and everywhere. Truly this collection proves true that what is intimately sacred will make intimacy sacred- these pieces of olfactory art could be found as easily in the boudoir and on the altar.

Further reading visit the JoAnne Basset site
Shopping you can visit the JoAnne Bassett ETSY site

From JoAnne Bassett: Because there wasn’t a perfume giveaway I am offering a special sale on my website of the fragrances recently reviewed. http://joannebassett.com/natural_perfumes/2014/11/08/special-sale-on-joanne-bassett-natural-perfumes/

Has anyone tried JoAnne Bassett? What do you think when your favorite artist changes their style up? Is it interesting expansion or irritating aberration?

Much light,
Einsof

The Architects Club by Yann Vasnier for Arquiste 2014

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Melbourne, the 6th November in Peony Carlos Hubert will launch The architect’s club and a new L’Etrog. Contact Jill in the store for details!

Sydney, the 19th November for a Sydney Perfume Lovers Meetup

The Architects Club by Yann Vasnier for Arquiste 2014

The Architects Club Arquiste FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

The Architects Club starts fresh, cool and billowing – soft vanilla, pith-like with orange and lemon rind that fizzes like its just been dropped into tonic. It crackles a little, peppery in nature, though not sharp, rather cushioned. Immediately I realize its firmly unisex. The next stage is tart, astringent. A London Gin cocktail gives a backbone of robust juniper berries.

There’s something slightly musty and resinous on the up – Amber, old books. My mind darts to member’s club lounge chairs –Chesterfields and the like, fireplace in the distance, no smoke, but woody wafts. I remember interiors of Home House and Royal Automobile Club in London – heritage listed clubs that mix stuffy and traditional with opulent, cool and modern. Modern food and drinks served with finesse in comfy rooms that feel like they hold much heritage. Even empty its possible to hear the chatter of times gone by in the high ceilings of these places. The odour of cigars still seems seeps from somewhere. A few women must have visited here wearing Shalimar, as vanilla continues to billow.

The scent of Hotel bars Claridge’s and The Berkeley are captured. “It’s a London thing” as They say and it’s one of the reasons to go there if you haven’t already.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

An astringent oak wood note and something herbal, almost aniseedic comes to my attention. I’m reminded of my favorite pub in Soho with its oak interior The French House, serving only half pints, as it’s “a Gentlemen’s Pub” even to this day. Looking up the notes I realize its pepperwood, oak and Guaicwood and clary sage giving a distinctive smell. It’s dapper and timeless. I can see it suiting an English Dandy from years ago to a man in a suit to this day off to work in Sydney.

Its distinctive, solid and luminously light, making it not too over bearing or strong for an office, and certainly comfortable. A balmy Amber fragrance. I rarely wear vanilla, but with the woods, herbs and juniper in balance, I’m enjoying the ride. It’s extremely wearable. You could wear it to work, and out after for an alfresco meal. Smart whilst hinting at fun.

Overall I’ve made myself homesick for London. Which is a good result, as where many fragrances claim to smell like London, this is the first one I have tried which actually transports me straight there.

Ainslie Walker x

 

Un Zeste de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine 2002

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Heya gang,

Les Parfums de Rosine is sadly neglected, I’m not sure if its their dated packaging which frankly looks 1960s drug store, their bottles which go only with Tiffany lamps and antimacassars and remind me of lace curtains or the little cutesy curtain ties with fringy bobs. The fragrances are solid and delicious, interesting and sometimes boundary pushing. Michael fell madly in love with a couple of the men’s scents while we were at the flagship store in the Palais Royale in Paris and bought a couple of bottles, including their discontinued men’s extrait. Now Michael’s nose is impeccable, if he says the juice is good then you better believe it.

Un Zeste de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine 2002

Un Zeste de Rose Les Parfums de Rosine FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Amalfi lemon, orange, dried fruits
Heart: Jasmine, rose, tea
Base: Musk, holly, amber

Citrus, fresh cut and cool; a slightly pithy cut that has a dried apricot overtone and already there is the bite of tea in fragrance when Un Zeste de Rose opens on my skin. A dryness that smells of loose leaf tea in the packet.  This then is a softly peach-coloured tea scented rose with nuances of fruits and a green acerbic backdrop that doesn’t make me think of leaves but twig, cut twig or stem of a rose from the garden.Maybe this rose is headed for a vase in your house, it could be dewy or you could be smelling the cool water in your cut crystal rose bowl.

A rose full of fragrance, a lightly spicy tea scented rose through the heart and I am surprised that there is no honey mentioned in the notes. Maybe the honey factor comes through the amber/musk combination? I don’t know but it is smooth and lovely. Actually, there is a lovely creaminess to Un Zeste de Rose that is like a fresh green and cream, mmmmmmm.

Much younger and more youthful that their marketing suggests Un Zeste de Rose is crisp and light enough for everyday wear. Lasting power is good too but after about 2 hours Un Zeste de Rose wears very close to your skin, as soft as a body lotion.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Scent for Thought
First In Fragrance has €78/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

Un Zeste de Rose is no huge groundbreaker but I think its creamy tea, honey and green-ness make it special. Extremely wearable and would make a great gift.

Portia xx

Giveaway Time sassisamblogPhoto Stolen sassisamblog

Un Zeste de Rose GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 Winners who will each get:
1 x 5ml Un Zeste de Rose decant
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us about a rose fragrance that wins you over, or a memory of someone who wore one well

Extra Chance?
Tweet: http://wp.me/p3PURw-3je Les Parfums de Rosine GIVEAWAY  

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 2nd November 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 6th November 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Mohur Extrait by Neela Vermeire Creations 2014

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Post by FeralJasmine

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Deep Soft Luxury: Mohur Extrait

Sometimes a perfume offers you access to a dream. Back in my distant 20s, when I was first getting serious about Indian cooking, I also had a farm and a Jersey cow named Lily, who flooded my kitchen with the freshest, creamiest milk, cream, and butter. During those distant days, I made a dessert that lives on in my memory even though I’ve never tried to duplicate it. It involved that morning’s rich milk cooked down very slowly with a tiny bit of rice until it thickened on its own, lightly sweetened, and lightly seasoned with saffron and rosewater. While it lasted, I savored a tiny cupful every day. I would sniff it for a long time before starting in on it. Mohur extrait reminds me of it.

Mohur Extrait by Neela Vermeire Creations 2014

Mohur Extrait by Bertrand Duchaufour

Mohur Extrait Neela Vermeire Creations FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, coriander, ambrette (musk mallow), carrot seeds, pepper, elemi
Heart: Iris, jasmine, rose, violet, almond, leather
Base: Sandalwood, amber, woody notes, patchouli, agarwood (oud), benzoin, vanilla, tonka bean

Does this mean that Mohur Extrait smells like a dessert? Not by a long shot. But it has similar notes and the same sense of an extraordinary luxury entering a workaday life. The rose is perfect. Not blowsy, not green and tight and ungiving, just caught at its peak of exquisiteness. The saffron smells very delicate and very real. I greatly dislike the chemical equivalent, saffraleine or whatever it’s called, and this smells more like the precious CO2 extract of pure saffron of which I have a tiny, treasured bottle. Vanilla and benzoin combine to make a soft, elegant bed for her majesty the rose to recline upon. Everything is in harmony, and nothing is overemphasized. The cardamom note is one of the subtlest, and loveliest, that I have experienced. This one shoots straight to the top of my list of rose favorites.

Mohur Extrait Neela Vermeire Creations Kazakh WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

I want to say more about my perception that some clean cream notes round out the scent. The combination of vanilla and benzoin and tonka often has creamy and buttery notes to me, and I want to emphasize that I am not talking about condensed-milk notes. In these benighted times, few people have experienced rich milk fresh from the cow, but the scent is clean, creamy, supple, with a note of lost childhood in it. If you haven’t smelled really fresh milk, I have no idea what you would compare this scent to. Perhaps the closest equivalent is really clean fresh hay combined with powder, hypnotic in a pleasantly dreamy rather than a narcotic way, like the most perfect summer afternoon.

Mohur Extrait Neela Vermeire Creations Monet Les_arceaux_de_roses,_Giverny WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Alembicated Genie and Colognoisseur
Neela Vermeire Creations has an email you can order from
LuckyScent has $465/50ml

I am an admirer of the Neela Vermeire Creations line, and this is the only line I can think of where I love every single scent. Probably nothing can knock my beloved Trayee off its pedestal. Mohur Extrait is a very different and equally bewitching thing. Try it. Simple as that.

FeralJasmine XX

Moon Dust by MiN New York 2014

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

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Post by Trésor

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All of my closest friends will tell you that I am particularly fond of nightfall. How with the sepulchral toll of the bell reverberating upon the witching hour my neurons electrify and I feel alive, in tune and illuminated by the muses once more. Along with this nightly revivisence comes an exquisite and pensive solace, a period of magnificent alleviation where I can be with my own thoughts and allow myself the time to experience a cherished potion who’s vapours are for my nose and my nose alone. It is now when I reach for the transcendent and beguilingly abstract and set off on a journey beyond corporeal manifestations. It is now when I reach for Moon Dust.

Moon Dust by MiN New York 2014

Moon Dust MiN New York FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Leather, soil tincture, musk, benzoin

As you step out of the airlock and on to the ashen lunar terrain you are received by the unmistakable aroma of flint striking cold, galvanized steel and releasing a lambent display of sparks into the atmosphere. Glacial and mineralic, this sequence is in the same breath both galactic and so deeply familiar. Moments later your body is enraptured within the fluidic chill of water rushing through a labryinth of river rocks, polished like glass by eons of cosmic erosion. It is this phase in particular which brings tears to my eyes, the reminiscence of playing with rocks in the small brook nestled behind my grandparent’s home as a child. A simple memory of absolute peace and splendid joy.

moon-dust-min-new-york Child pilostic PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

An almost iridescent haze of tobacco infuses the air and scintillates as if imbued by wet earth flecked with shards of precious, gleaming stone. It is an exquisite oscillation of a tangible, native realm and that of another dimension, one both rigidly industrial and poetic in its beauty. As you begin your descent back down to the Earthly dominion you can feel the brisk ozone of the stratosphere filling your lungs, an invigorating aurora and olfactory contrast I’ve never quite experienced before. As your feet finally rest upon terra firma a cloak of tarry, ink hued musk rises from the dust below and kisses you with lips lacquered with a candied nuance of benzoin. It is within this human aura that Moon Dust becomes evanescent and bids the senses a resplendent farewell.

moon-dust-min-new-york roltirirang DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

This fragrance is not so much a prototypical perfume as it is a conceptual olfactory expedition, defying convention while preserving an enigmatic enchantment that is only present within creations authored with a great deal of love and profound passion. If you are one who revels in the midst of an vanguard splendor I urge you to spend some time experiencing this contemporary aromatic landscape.

Further reading: Colognoisseur and What Men Should Smell Like
MinNY has $240/75ml

The vapours of Moon Dust are diffuse but not at all audacious, with a longevity of around 6 to 8 hours on my perfume devouring skin.

Trésor x

 

Lux + Nuit Noire by Mona di Orio (re-release) 2014

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen.

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It is difficult to know where to start when there has already been so much written about these two fragrances. I will take the chance to inform those who don´t know that Lux and Nuit Noire are available again. They have been re-launched in their original formulas.

Mona di Orio (re-release) 2014: Signature Collection

Lux Mona di Orio- Sensual and erotic

Lux Mona di Orio FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Mona di Orio gives these featured accords in one line (Press Release):
Sicilian lemon, litsea cubeba, bigarade petitgrain, Haitian vetiver, Mysore cedarwood, sandalwood, musk, amber, Siamese benzoin, Bourbon vanilla

Kicks off with a sparkling and delightful lemon. This is no cologne though. The development can be compared to throwing a pebble into the water. The immediate splash is the delicious citrus, but as the ripples spread, the vetiver appears and very slowly it takes us towards the most sensual vanilla and and earthy lemon with musks and amber and sandalwood swirling in along the way. Lux is Latin for light. It is also a stunning fragrance, turning from light into shadow and then back again to a warm soft lingering glow. Lux must be tried on the skin to experience the passionate journey that ensues. Lux is not too sweet, harmonizes beautifully and is absolutely stunning on a man.

Nuit Noire Mona di Orio- Lie me down and tether me tightly

Nuit Noire Mona di Orio FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Mona di Orio gives these featured accords in one line (Press Release):
Orange flower, cardamom, ginger, orange, frankincense, cinnamon, tuberose, sandalwood, clove, cedarwood, amber, leather, musk, tonka

I would be careful about wearing this one in the office. The same applies if you have been diagnosed with a heart condition.

It is so hardcore in the first few moments, that you need to be careful not to inhale too deeply and thus risk droplets
hanging off of your nose hair. Indolic orange, skunky cardamom and hot ginger. It is quite thrilling. By the time you try to figure out what´s going on, it calms down into a warm seductive combination of tuberose and spices and you have a while to savour the experience. Slowly it moves on into musk, leather, tonka and amber. It is carnal, yet creamy
and velvety throughout. Nuit Noire will not be for all perfume lovers, but should be tried by as many who have the chance. Intoxicating, stimulating and über-feminine.

MdO Lux + Nuit Noire ValPhoto Donated by Mona di Orio

The the newly designed black transluscent oval flacons just for Lux and Nuit Noire are very striking.

First In Fragrance has €140/75ml

Spending time with Jeroen Oude Sogtoen, co-founder and Creative Director of MdO was one of the highlights of 2014. His passion is inspiring. He buttons up his shirts and doesn´t pretend to be a perfumer.

MdO Lux + Nuit Noire Val2Photo Donated by Mona di Orio

Much thanks to Jeroen and Henrike for their kindness in Florence.

Bussis
CQ