Smell Bent Reviews

Hey Fragrant Obsessives,

Yesterday we talked to Brent Leonesio from Smell Bent, indie perfume house. Today we are going to look at some of the newest creations from the range. These only went live less than a month ago and I am really excited about them. Brent reminds me of the Dad in The Book Of Lost Fragrances by M J Rose, who created scents for the sake of seeing if he can for his children. He is a master of surprise for me, and the tongue in cheek. Just look at that cheeky grin, you know you’re going to be in trouble with this wild boy.

Brent at the salon last week

Today I am proud to present 4 of the latest Smell Bent range for your edification. They are an interesting look at where Brent is currently. On Thursday we will be giving these away, 2 each to 2 lucky winners so be sure to come have a go at that. I am SO annoyed that we are giving these away, now I have to go and buy myself a set! GRRRRR!

Little Miss Panda Got Lei’d: Oh! This opens white floral and green, maybe it’s the guava that smells green to me. The honeysuckle and teak come through later but the white flowers maintain themselves softly too. Very late in, around 2 hours, it sweetens up to fruit, which may be the guava back to say hello, it just rides on top of the others for a while before it all disappears.  Smell Bent gives these accords; pikake (jasmine sambac) and tuberose leis with guava, japanese honeysuckle, and teak

Apres Soleil:  On my skin it opens with yummy honey, coconut and leather, it is gorgeous. About an hour later I get jasmine with sandalwood and coconut. It sounds dreadful but it’s not. There’s a warm, almost salty, delicious feeling to Apres Soleil. Not in your face, more close to the skin than any other Smell Bent fragrance I’ve tried and if perfume is there to make you smell good then this is a winner. The lasting power on Apres Soleil is about 6-7 hours on me with a lovely soft coconut/sandalwood dry down. Smell Bent gives these accords; jasmine absolute dressed up with honey, coconut, soft leather, sandalwood and nitro musk.

ORDER.html

Frankin Smellie S12#599 (Musk Melange): Green and musk to open, interesting. There are 9 musk aromachemicals in this fragrance. Brent tells us in his blog which means that many of us can’t smell them all, due to musk anosmia because we smell them in our laundry, dish and house cleaning, deodorants air purifiers etc etc. Goes on strong for me, almost leaves and then comes back all Muscs Koublai Khan and stays. Then it becomes almost vanilla towards dry down, this is not a big fragrance after its opening sequence on me.

Incensed Short Fuse: Delicious pepper and incense opening with a lovely swipe of cardamom, it’s like an Indian kitchen in here. This is so resonant with my memories of traveling through India. The memories are flooding back. My mates hotels, train Chai, Kerala houseboat, Dalai Lama’s cantonement, roadside stalls, 5 star hotels, Kashmiri wedding, steamy heat, freezing cold. This is like a travelogue. Thanks Brent AH MAY ZING!! The cardamom lasts right through to dry down in a clean, fresh and invigorating alternative to citrus. Smell Bent gives these accords; incense ignited with cardamom, pepper, amber resin and dry woods

Some of the Smell Bent fragrances have been a bit unwearable in close quarters company for me: Wolf Lumberjack, one of the Frakin-Smellies and Steve from the Scented Hound says Commando too. You wouldn’t wear Giorgio  or original Opium out to dinner either these days, but it’s fun to wear them at home for yourself, or to a garden party, or on a solo long drive, or the disco. None of the four I’ve brought before you today are offensive in any way, I think you could wear these anywhere without fear of reprisals.

My favourite? I knew you’d ask. I have 2, Incensed Short Fuse, obviously, and Apres Soleil because it’s winter here, even though I was out sunbaking for an hour at lunchtime, and this reminds me of long lazy summer days by the pool with a tonic water and orange slices.

Thanks for dropping by. You can buy a Travel Spray Set of all four of these for $23 including US shipping HERE (<<Jump) from the Smell Bent website. Do yourself and your nose a favour, go try them. You will not be disappointed.

Portia xx

PS I’ve used corresponding Smell Bent Artworks to illustrate each scent

Smell Bent Perfumer Brent Leonesio Interview

Hello pursuers of fine fragrances,

This week I have again chosen to highlight the incredible talent of an Independent Perfumer; Brent Leonesio from Smell Bent. It wasn’t so long ago that I discovered the Smell Bent brand, I’m not even sure how it happened now. Maybe another blogger was writing or I could have stumbled upon them in a late night google search. Maybe I came across his picture, because the man is really, decidedly, damned cute. Yummy McYUM!!

Doesn’t matter where I found Smell Bent, what do matter are the juices, they are fun, frivolously named, sideways and sometimes shocking fragrances. The fun belies the fact that if it’s a Smell Bent fragrance, then it will be awesome. Not always to my taste, it’s true, but something extraordinary never-the-less. The first scent I bought was a bottle of Tibet Yr Bottom $; a fun look at incense, woods and stuff, it stayed front and centre of the collection for 3 months, unheard of. Then, more recently, it was the Vocabulary range, the wolf pair, some gourmand Christmas frags, a couple of the Frankin-Smelly releases and to go along with this interview Brent has sent us 4 new sample size frags from his latest range for me to review and then for you to WIN! Check back on Thursday for details of how you can.

Here are a few questions that Brent was kind enough to take some time to answer, what a star….

Tell us about young Brent please?
I was definitely a curious kid.  I lived in my head and frolicked in fantasy.  And I think I still do.

What were you doing before you became a perfumer?
I worked in the fashion industry, had a bunch of different jobs – designing, wholesaling, buying.  But I got a little disenchanted with the business and was ready for a change.

How did you become interested in fragrance?
I ran out of a bottle of Armani Prive Bois d’Encens, which was going at about $200 at the time.  I went online looking for an affordable replacement when I fell down the rabbit hole known as Basenotes.  If only I had shelled out that cash, I wouldn’t be here today.

What qualifications do you have as a perfumer?
I love perfume and have studying it for 6 years and creating it for just over 3.  I guess you could say my qualification is passion.

Who were and are your mentors and inspirations?
I’ve been influenced by numerous artists in various mediums.  I look up to people like Franco Moschino, Estee Lauder and E.M. Forster.

Do you still wear mass market fragrances, if yes which and why?
I don’t wear much perfume as of late.  I usually save my nose for my work.  Recently though, I’ve been spraying myself with a bit of Alexander McQueen’s (sadly discontinued) Kingdom.

Who is your favourite independent perfumer and why?
I just got back from a show with 19 other indie perfumers.  I can’t think of a more exciting time to be working in the medium.  For the first time, in a long time, perfume is opening up and individuals who are passionate about making perfume are able to do so.  If you’re going it on your own, my hat is off to you!

Synthetic or natural, why?
I love a mix.  Naturals are incredibly interesting and complex on their own.  But there are so many exciting synthetics that offer smells the natural world doesn’t.  I couldn’t choose one over the other.

What constitutes a Smell Bent customer?
Anyone who thinks perfume can and should be fun.

How has your online business developed?
I started with a website and an email.  A friend ran a blog and wrote about me.  I just followed the aspects of businesses I respected- quick-turnaround, personalized service and high quality products at a good price.  I try and keep things as simple as possible.

Smell Bent is renowned for its quirky names and slightly sideways scents, why have you chosen that road?
When I started, I wanted to put me in the work.  And I guess a big part of it is just my personality coming through.  I also think that sometimes perfume takes itself too seriously and I wanted to change that.

Do you wish someday to work for the big end of perfumery, why?
I can’t say where I’ll be or with whom.  I’m gonna stick with smell bent for the foreseeable future.  The company is growing and finding an audience beyond my wildest dreams.

What fragrance, that you have made, do you always refer to in your mind as success, why?
I know which are most loved by my audience – scents like St. Tropez Dispenser or Bollywood of Bust.  I’m loving Short Fuse and Little Miss Panda Gets Lei’d.  But I’m always partial to the last things I’ve done.

What are the 5 most important things you have learned so far that could help budding perfumistas/perfumers?
1.     Start small.
2.     Ask for help.
3.     Don’t be afraid to try something new.
4.     When you’re most afraid of being different than everyone else, just keep going.
5.     Believe in yourself.

Where do you see Smell Bent in 5 years?
I would love to see the business continue to grow.  Every year has been a real adventure for me and I feel incredibly fortunate to be doing what I love.

Told you, Ah May Zing guy. Tomorrow I want to take you through the 4 newbies I’ve been sent to review for you, if you want to check the site before then SMELL BENT <<<JUMP
See you back here tomorrow then,
Portia xx

Photos Stolen Fragrantica

SUNDAY QUICKSNIFF REVIEWS #10

Hello Perfumistas,

Click here for more graphics and gifs!

Every Monday morning the Sunday QuickSniff Review page is opened and each time I spritz during the week and am near the computer I’ll give a 3 sentence review with a rating out of 5 each for, well, see the key after the reviews. These can be samples I’ve bought or had sent to me by friends, or a FB that I may fully review later, or have done before and want to remind you of its existence. It gives me a lovely Sunday to hang with friends away from the computer, I hope your Sunday is great too.

DZING! by L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR 1999. On my skin I get warm shiny pleather-ish, dirty hay, play-do, new formica, then a kind of aqueous ginger, something like a recently lifted lotus root, still wet. Then we get back to the plastic, leather and resins with a late showing of caramel. Interesting, but I think I like the way Jacomo Art Collection #2 takes the idea further in a slightly different pentameter. S=*** L=*** D=**

IN BLOOM by REESE WITHERSPOON for AVON 2009. Another from my AVON mate Penny, YOO HOO Gorgeous!! This is an aquatic fruit and white flowers, it’s nothing new or particularly gripping but it is quite pretty. A perfect scent for anything really, totally inoffensive, and the price is great. Amazon has 50ml $12. S=** L=*** D=**

COMME DES GARDCONS EdP 1994. WOW! This opens on me with a huge hit of clove and cardamom, phew! Nearly blew my head off and it is beautiful, maintaining an interesting spice and wood combo for hours that weaves around itself rarely hitting the florals. No wonder this caused such a sensation when released; and is still available.  A 5ml spray decant was on special at ThePerfumedCourt S=**** L=*** D=****

ROUGE by HERMES 2000. Rouge is the reinterpretation of 1984’s Parfum d”Hermes, they have modernised and freshened the old blockbuster in a very palatable way that will probably have outraged the old guard but enticed a younger market. The iris opens cool but it doesn’t take long for the scent to warm up bringing the ylang-ylang and woods in a breathy, sensual mix that already heads towards its spicy amber base, kept inedible by the myrtle green, that lasts around 4 hours till gone. EssentialMall has 50ml under $70 S=**** L=*** D=***


Photo Stolen from shirtsays

Scent, Obviously the number 1 priority here is how does it smell. My reviews are completely subjective and will differ widely from your own experience with the scent but it’s a good starting point. As yet I am not a trained perfumer so any and all descriptions are merely that, descriptions. There are plenty of blogs that offer technical details and chemistry, in 3 sentences I’ll pass.
Longevity, This is a biggie for me because like enfleurage where flower petals are left in fats to steal the scent, my fatty body works the same and eats it up, yum. So for a scent to last well on me, it will probably last a whole day on you and need a radioactive decontamination shower to defuse it from your skin.
Desirabilty, Wrapped up in this is scent, price, house, history, longevity, packaging, availability and a billion other things.

Photo Stolen from bittbox

* in any of these being the, “You couldn’t pay enough to spray this God awful stink on me again, it smells like public toilets in India, long time fridge malfunction while on Summer holiday and the vile stench of poverty all rolled into one.” You are putting innocent people in danger if you wear this.
** means it’s a nothing, wearable, boring, maybe the price is prohibitive for what you get or it’s ubiquitous. You should definitely get a sample of this to stop a buying boo boo.
*** is a perfectly good product that smells good and lasts a while at a decent price. You should definitely think about trying a sample or squirt but should you miss out your life will continue. Sample size worthy.
**** is the one you try, want a lot but can wait for a birthday/Christmas. It’s better than most of the stuff you’ve sniffed and may fill a void in your library. This is also an excellent decant product 5ml will get you through the season and maybe buy it next year.
***** meaning, stop reading this, grab your cash, credit card (or partners), roll the elderly or rob a petrol station and purchase this product. NOW! If you don’t have this fragrance you could die.

The sniffing around your house been good? What have you tried and how did you rate it?

Portia xx

Allure Homme by Jacques Polge for Chanel 1999

Hello Fragrant Fraternity,

HOORAY!! Go check out my Guest Spot on the PERFUME POSSE! It’s a super fun story of helping a mate choose his new fragrance.

ENTER the THURSDAY GIVEAWAY too. It’s a super dooper grab bag this week.

How lucky am I? A friend of mine was given this and made open the box and spray at his party, couldn’t stand it and couldn’t return it either. Full bottle to Portia!! Woo Hoo! Up to this point I had been unaware of Allure Homme but was expecting a big Chanel base with some spice, WRONG!


Photo Stolen Fragrantica

On me the opening citrus burst is quite overwhelming, and I can already smell a bit of bakery like the first cut of an orange souffle. Though it is in your face it still manages to be warm, mellow and cuddly, like a well dressed, freshly pressed Dad. The beginning of the floral heart is not at all as I expected, the geranium keeps it sharp and green, it feels a bit like some herbs have been left off the note list, with a warm background. Then the fragrance fades to a near nothing, if I stick my head down my shirt I can smell it but it is so close to the skin and sillageless that I feel unperfumed. Every so often though I get a huff of it and am completely transported because what little there is is gorgeous, heartbreaking. I want the world to smell how good this is. It lasts in this non perfumed state for ages, maybe 6 more hours and goes through a slightly leather/vanilla that is great, I know it’s not in the notes but to my nose (which is not always on point) there is leather. The sandalwood is adding butter to the amberish vanilla too. Such a lovely fragrance and well deserving of your attention but it is no big head turner. Only the people very close, and you. will even know that it’s not your own skin that smells so good.

Fragrantica gives these notes:
Top: Mandarin, lemon, peach and bergamot
Middle: Freesia, geranium, rose and jasmine
Base: Benzoin, tonka, sandalwood and vanilla

The NowSmellThis crew were unimpressed and I couldn’t find another review on the first 2 pages of google.

I hope you go and try Allure Homme, it is an excellent work, dinner, after the gym or sex date scent, especially the last. You can’t over apply Allure Homme because it’s such a quiet body fragrance. Another great thing is, you can pass by any Chanel counter and get a spritz for free.

See you tomorrow,
Portia xx

I know this is for the sport model but I love this making of video, it’s better than the ad.

Songes by Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2005

Hoya Perfumistas!

Yes, I have spoken about Annick Goutal (1948-99) before. We have done days of the Annick Goutal bio and fragrance story (Bio, Frag#1, Frag#2, Frag #3; <<< jump back) and I have used some of the same words here because they are as true now as then (they are in italics).

Photo Stolen fanpop

Songes EdT was my first Annick Goutal FBW fragrance. When the sample arrived I loved it so much I sprayed it on all and sundry till it ran dry just so they could experience the enormous grand white floral opening. What a fragrance! Designed around a dusk ramble on Camille Goutal’s honeymoon and the frangipani’s nighttime scent song of dreams.

Songes means dreams and I think it is an interesting choice of a name for a fragrance built around the scent of frangipani at dusk. It opens so full and spectacularly, not dreamy at all. White flowers pumping out their glorious, decadent fragrance. White night flowers have something so special and glorious that whenever I put this voluptuous fragrance on I almost swoon with delight. A bold fragrance, with solid strength and sillage, unlike most AG perfumes Songes has excellent lasting power too. From spritz to gone is around 4-6 hours for me depending on my day. Along with the flowers I get lovely inedible vanilla, almost amber-ish, and a soft incense note that I’ve never noticed before but this morning I was burning incense and here it is repeated. Halfway through there is a very human element that comes and goes, like clean mouth breath. The whole time I’ve been wearing this my mind keeps saying, “Oh, this is lovely, why don’t I wear this more often?” It’s now got fridge front and centre.


Photo Stolen from escentual-com

The Annick Goutal website says

The twilight in Tahiti, transcending into a inspiring combination of frangipani and tiare flowers.
Creation date : 2005
Olfactory family : Floral, oriental, amber 
(Frangipani, Tiare flower, Sambac jasmine absolute, ylang-ylang absolute, olibanum, French vanilla absolute, sandalwood, amber)

The Perfume Shrine  and NowSmellThis do excellent reviews and Fragrantica for notes and accords.

I have enjoyed bringing you Songes again, do you have a favourite Annick Goutal fragrance? Which one and why?
Portia xx

Ambre Sultan by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2000

Hiya Everyone,

Although I have a bottle of Muscs Koublai Khan the Serge Lutens line has remained a mystery to me. Trolling through my sample boxes the other day I found a manufacturers sample in its posh black/white box. It had fallen out of the bag it arrived in, some lovely fumie had sent it to me (Dionne? Undina?) but as it was running free I am unsure. I want to say Thank You.

Photo Stolen indiatimes

Ambre Sultan opens huge and stays that way for nearly an hour on me, then it takes you on a walking trek of itself, there is no need to worry that you’ve been distracted for 15 minutes because large chunks of time are allotted for each section, like a raga made into fragrance. I have now smelled of one perfume for 24 hours, with only 2 spritzes.

Photo Stolen ebay

On my skin I love the crackling, nearly burnt herbs and spices that fly and waft freely as soon as you spray Ambre Sultan, as if you’ve just thrown them on a very hot, dry pan over a campfire. It’s harsh, bitter, green, wood, vanilla and smoke all at the same time and it jumps up and assaults your nostrils, BAM! Through this whirlwind of an opening begins the life of the star of this fragrance, amber; by the time you lose the cacophony of the opening the resinous vanilla has already entered and been playing in with the chorus, unnoticed. As it unfolds it lights the whole composition as if I am suddenly snuggled in my duvet all warm, clean and safe.  Later on Ambre Sultan gets a little bit flesh and sweaty too. Though it doesn’t get gourmand sweet, there are lovely almost flashes of sugar/nectar that weave through, constantly cut off without notice by the greens and spices. I love the way that sometimes I get the smell of religious devotions and others almost a patisserie, there is something new, unexpected and wonderful often.

Photo Stolen wikipewdia

Hours and hours later, about 14 hours later I am surrounded by the still interesting, warm vanilla and wood. The scent is discernible and is good enough to be the opening of a fragrance, even though it has come a long way and changed its smellable components throughout the day countless times. This is an amber oriental done by 2 masters. Even after a good nights sleep I wake up smelling amazing, here is where you get your gourmand, I am now a freshly baked, still warm vanilla brioche, just broken open and buttered.

Fragrantica gives the notes as coriander, sandalwood, bay leaf, patchouli, angelica, resins, myrrh, amber, oregano, myrtle, benzoin and vanilla.

FragranceNet has 50ml (including 15% discount) under $85
PoshPeasant has decants starting at $6

I hope you’ve enjoyed my day with Ambre Sultan, it has been a ride,
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx

Pulp by Byredo 2008

Guest Post By EmmaKate

Hello hello!

First I would like to introduce myself. My name is EmmaKate and I, like you, am obsessed with fragrance. However this isn’t an obsession I realized I had until I started working in the beauty industry. I have been lucky enough to work at Estée Lauder for a little while and Mecca Cosmetica for a much longer time.

Secondly I would like to say a massive thank you to Portia for inviting me to be a part of this wonderful blog.

While working at Mecca I was lucky enough to meet Frederic Malle, Fabrice from Le Labo, Francis Kirkdijan, Ben from Byredo and many more.
I will share with you stories and insights into these perfumers and their brands, and many more in my blogs.

Today I am going to talk about Byredo’s Pulp. Byredo is a fragrance house created by Ben Gorham.

image.jpeg

Photo Stolen Byredo

Ben is a native of Sweden, born to an Indian mother, Canadian father and grew up in Toronto, New York and Stockholm. He studied fine arts at Stockholm Art School and became interested in fragrance as his form of expression. Byredo was born.

The entire Byredo range is something to behold but Pulp moves me.

image.jpeg

Photo Stolen Byredo

This fragrance upon opening smells of a freshly cut fruit salad, fruity, juicy and delicious. It reminds me of fruit punch with a kick of gin to amp up the sauciness. As it dries down green fig comes into the mix to round it out. The fig gives it body and depth, whilst not compromising the sensual and flirty fruitiness.

Fragrantica gives the notes as

Top: Bergamot, cardamon and black currant
Heart: Fig, red apple and tiare flower
Base: Cedar, praline and peach blossom.

When I wear this fragrance I feel happy, excited, serene and a bit juicy myself 😉 As I smell it I can feel a hint of summer, a girlie frock and mango juice running down my chin and arms…bliss.

Mecca Cosmetics has 50ml $158

The Posh Peasant has samples starting at $5.50

See you next month,
EmmaKate X

SUNDAY QUICKSNIFF REVIEWS #9

Hey Hey Scentsationalists,

Click here for more graphics and gifs!

Every Monday morning the Sunday QuickSniff Review page is opened and each time I spritz and am near the computer I’ll give a 3 sentence review with a rating out of 5 each for, well, see the key after the reviews. Just some sniffs written quickly, it’s Sunday, I’ve been relaxing with my buddies, dogs and partner. I hope you’re having a good one too.

These can be samples I’ve bought or had sent to me by friends, or a FB that I may fully review later, or have done before and want to remind you of its existence.

OUTSPOKEN by FERGIE for AVON. My mate Penny (Thanks Penny, you SUPERMUM!!) gave me this, she is an AVON lady; honesty compels me to tell you that I expected it to be utter crap and it’s nothing new, can’t hold a candle to Chanel, Guerlain or Serge Lutens, but for the price this is AWESOME! As soon as the squeaky opening settles it is a soft aqueous white floral with a very respectable woods and leather dry down; gone in 2-3 hours on me. This is a good scent if you are on a budget, it wont skunk, is wearable at any time and in most situations, you could pay a lot more and get worse. Around $20 for 50ml S=*** L=** D=**

VIVA LA JUICY by JUICY COUTURE 2008. A youth oriented, slightly fizzy, fruity gourmand that is not bad on my skin!! Less irritating than many in its style, has some depth and follows an interesting course from super sweet fruit, through white flowers to soft amber/caramel base over a decent amount of time. Not my thing but I can see where it’s better than many of its peers and will probably use up this sample. A 3ml spray decant from MyPerfumeSamples only $6 S=*** L=**** D=**

FLOWERBOMB by VIKTOR & ROLF 2005. OK This is the same stuff but with all the irritants put in that they left out of Viva La Juicy. One of the currently ubiquitous fruit-chouli army, on (and to) me HORRIBLE!! but I know it’s a really big seller so it must work for some. I will be giving this away in our Thursday Giveaway. A 5ml spray decant from MyPerfumeSamples $9 S=* L=*** D=*

OBSESSION MEN by CALVIN KLEIN 1986. This is an ex-tester bought supercheap, Thanks Amanda! The citrus and spice at the top of this old chestnut are like stepping back in time to when I was studying fashion and this was what people wore, the general public went crazy for it and it still sells. Until today I’d never put it on my skin but POW right in the sniffer! I know America has a thing for clean smelling fragrances but Obsession has always had a sexy backdrop of fleshy, aroused manliness to me. FragranceNet has 15ml for under $12 S=**** L=*** D=***


Photo Stolen from shirtsays

Scent, Obviously the number 1 priority here is how does it smell. My reviews are completely subjective and will differ widely from your own experience with the scent but it’s a good starting point. As yet I am not a trained perfumer so any and all descriptions are merely that, descriptions. There are plenty of blogs that offer technical details and chemistry, in 3 sentences I’ll pass.
Longevity, This is a biggie for me because like enfleurage where flower petals are left in fats to steal the scent, my fatty body works the same and eats it up, yum. So for a scent to last well on me, it will probably last a whole day on you and need a radioactive decontamination shower to defuse it from your skin.
Desirabilty, Wrapped up in this is scent, price, house, history, longevity, packaging, availability and a billion other things.

Photo Stolen from bittbox

* in any of these being the, “You couldn’t pay enough to spray this God awful stink on me again, it smells like public toilets in India, long time fridge malfunction while on Summer holiday and the vile stench of poverty all rolled into one.” You are putting innocent people in danger if you wear this.
** means it’s a nothing, wearable, boring, maybe the price is prohibitive for what you get or it’s ubiquitous. You should definitely get a sample of this to stop a buying boo boo.
*** is a perfectly good product that smells good and lasts a while at a decent price. You should definitely think about trying a sample or squirt but should you miss out your life will continue. Sample size worthy.
**** is the one you try, want a lot but can wait for a birthday/Christmas. It’s better than most of the stuff you’ve sniffed and may fill a void in your library. This is also an excellent decant product 5ml will get you through the season and maybe buy it next year.
***** meaning, stop reading this, grab your cash, credit card (or partners), roll the elderly or rob a petrol station and purchase this product. NOW! If you don’t have this fragrance you could die.

Have you sniffed at all this week? What was it and how did it smell?

Portia xx

L’Eau D’Ambre by L’Artisan Parfumeur 1978

Hello Gorgeous!

This morning as we got out of bed there was a definite chill in the air so I decided that it would be a perfect day to grab the L’Eau D’Ambre from the fragrance fridge and give it a whirl. On writing this I have been wearing it 7 hours and there is still a beautiful warm amber glow whispering from my skivvy. Amber fragrance has nothing to do with the Amber worn in necklaces except that it smells like wearing amber feels; warm and richly exotic. It is a sweetish, resinous and woody accord usually from benzoin, labdanum, and vanilla, then other interesting accords and notes are added to give light and shade to a fragrance.

Photo Stolen Allposters

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s L’Eau D’Ambre is created with an extremely short list of accords, amber, patchouli, vanilla and geranium. On my skin I love the herbal/medicinal opening and think the minty, green geranium, which softens out after the initial rush and swoop, is instrumental in keeping the ambers and vanilla from getting too gourmandy throughout the life of the fragrance, though it does skirt caramel sometimes. I do notice there is a feeling that we are about to get fruit or roses every so often, just a hint, they never arrive but I am kept guessing all day. An oriental that hints at the spice road rather than embraces it and if you are looking for that harsh, burnt, markets in Asia, in your face amber extreme then pass L’Eau D’Ambre by. It is warm and classy, never overbearing, but keeps itself very nice. Often referred to as the amber for non amber fans, I agree, no need to push yourself to love this because it’s just a delightful and elegant amber for any occasion, opera, dinner, shopping or Bar B Q. Sensual rather than sexual, I feel very comfortable, like I’ve put on a comfy pair of jeans that I know look great.

Photo Stolen L’Artisan Parfumeur

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s website says Jean-Claude Ellena created this glorious perfume. Fragrantica, on the other hand, quotes it as Jean-Francois Laporte along with Vanilia, Tubereuse and Mure & Musc in the same year. I guess L’Artisan would know? Fragrantica does say Jean-Claude created L’Eau D’Ambre Extreme and L’Artisan doesn’t bother.

eGlobalBeauty has 50ml for $95 including P&H
Annoyingly L’Artisan Parfumeur don’t ship to Australia so I can’t order from their sale. GRRR! But you can.

I hope you’re all having a lovely weekend. Have you tried this house? What is your favourite L’Artisan perfume?

Portia xx

Siren by Paris Hilton 2009 Elton John meets Pnau

Hey Gang,

Photo Stolen marieclaireuk parishiltonsite

HA HA HA, I know. You are all incredulous. Why would Portia review a Paris Hilton fragrance? It’s not niche or expensive or fashionable! Well, you are right, it’s none of these things. Paris probably never even smelt this. Who knows? There are reasons though that I’ve given Paris Hilton Siren a try…

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

The main reason is that recently it was reported in reputable places that Paris Hilton had sold US$1.5 billion worth of perfume. 1.5 BILLION DOLLARS! So I am intrigued by anyone who can generate that many sales for something that everyone is panning. OK, if you are Paris Hilton and you’re a great sales person, businesswoman and advertisement for your product, you are constantly in the media for better and worse keeping the product that you have become alive. I get that part, she does an excellent job at that. Yes, she is kind of pretty (sometimes gorgeous) and articulate, that helps too………..BUT! that means people will buy your product once. Right? If all these people buy the products and they are utter crap then how is there any return custom? How do you sell 1.5 billion dollars worth of perfume when 100ml is around $40, that is a shitload of juice. So I am agog to see what the hell everyone is buying, aren’t you? Honestly, if people are buying and rebuying the celebrity dream, it has to be kind of good.

Photo Stolen songonlyrics

So, what do I smell when I put on Paris Hilton’s Siren? It has been compared to Viva La Juicy, I have one on each hand. On my skin Viva La Juicy is similar, and nice, but not as interesting, though it ends way more gourmand. Siren, on the other hand (literally), starts out with a citrus softened by a delicious buttery frangipani, maybe it is partly the orchid which seems very night blooming and rich. The sandalwood, lotus and musk are apparent but I don’t get even a hint of the honeysuckle. This is a full-throated floral, surprisingly quite big and unashamed. Maybe I have a thing for drugstore scents but I like Siren, it’s a very good name for the scent that is cool, delicious and exotic with hints of warmth, especially as it dries down to a shimmery vanilla/musk accord that lasts well, in barely there status, before it too is gone. Somewhere between 4 & 5 hours, which is great on my scent hungry skin.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

I am as surprised as you that this isn’t instant scrub. There are much better respected and more expensive brands doing a far worse job on their fragrances than Paris Hilton did on Siren. It just goes to show, doesn’t it.

CheapSmells has 100ml for $22

Portia xx

PS I also thought you might like this. Apparently, Elton John has made a compilation of mash ups with Australian musicians’s Pnau called Good Morning To The Night, here is a taste. I am LOVING it. I stole it from another blogger lechehelsinki. Thanks.