Noir for Men by Tom Ford 2012

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Post by Margeaux

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Hullo again stinkers!

6 months after falling nose first into the world of fragrances, I have inhaled more perfumes than I ever imagined. Some have been good, a few have been exceptional, and a lot have been nice, which is just my way of saying they were boring or uninspired.

Today’s scent is one that I had been dying to whiff, and finally thanks to Portia’s ingenuity with scheduling, I was able to do just that recently when we had our big day out in the city to partake in the incredible Piguet Masterclass. Post class we sashayed straight up to the Tom Ford counter in David Jones (department store) and I made a beeline to the gorgeously modern sleek and striking bottle of Noir for Men.

I spritzed the tester a couple of times onto the back of my hand and waited to learn exactly what this newish fragrance was all about.

Tom Ford Noir for Men 2012

Noir Tom Ford FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, verbena, caraway, pink pepper and violet
Heart: Black pepper, nutmeg, Tuscan iris, geranium, Bulgarian rose and clary sage
Base: Opoponax, amber, Indonesian patchouli leaf, vetiver, civet, vanilla, styrax, leather and benzoin.

To be completely honest, I am still feeling my way through the individual notes, so I am kind of no help to you there. But what I do know, is that Noir is quickly becoming one of my favourite scents. The opening is good, solidly manly without a hint of lumberjack anywhere to be found thanks to (and I’m guessing here) the bergamot and violet. Once it settles down, the beautiful flowers play delicately with the spices in a deliciously sensuous embrace that is both comforting and comfortable. Tom Ford isn’t out on a limb here people, this is totally accessible.

For me however, the ending is where the magic happens, and although having a good look again at the myriad of notes, it could’ve possible gone terribly awry but Noir somehow builds to a crescendo of sophistication and elegance that I cannot get enough of. In particular, I’m loving the patchouli, amber and leather combo for some serious stench, with a tiny hint of vanilla to keep everything in check. Nothing here is too much.

As this is an EDP, it seems willing to hang around for many hours and even on my thirsty skin I can get a full 10-12 hours of gorgeous smell, with it lingering for many hours afterwards if I manage to avoid the shower. I’ve already gone through a 2ml sample and quickly nearing the end of a 5ml sample so I fully expect that this will become my newest full bottle purchase or perhaps someone will gift it to me for my birthday??? 🙂

Tonya Pittman with Tom FordPhoto Stolen noision1 Flickr

Either way, Tom Ford has scored another winner for the man who desires class and elegance without fuss. Noir is beautiful and nuanced and wholly recommended.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Black Narcissus
FragranceNet has $124/100ml
Surrender To Chance offers samples from $4/ml

If you’ve smelled it, what did you think?

Mx

(Ed: I still think he looks like TVs M.A.S.H. Major Frank Burns)

GUCCI Envy Me by Karine Dubreuil for GUCCI 2004

Howdy APJ Fumies,

The other day Jin and I went to brunch with the lovely Cassandra F and her daughter. We had some serious perfume business to attend to and what better way to do that than with a meal and some frag sniffing? So Cassandra and I happily chatted about frags as I was buying a couple of Cassandra’s unloved bottles (which you’ll get to meet here in the near future) while the other two ate and chattered about other stuff. I have often wondered about today’s fragrance, the bottle has always intrigued me with its fun pink repeat GUCCI linked logo pattern, so reminiscent of the linings, bags, ties and shoes of the label but most reviewers are so outraged that they changed GUCCI Envy that they miss this ones merits completely.

GUCCI Envy Me by GUCCI 2004

GUCCI Envy Me Gucci FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Peony, peach, cassia, pineapple, mango, pink pepper, jasmine
Heart: Peony, litchi, rose, pomegranite, white tea, jasmine, musk
Base: Tobacco, musk, tonka, sandalwood, teak wood

GUCCI Envy Me is no incredible, earth shaking fragrance that will change your life and send your mind spinning in heretofore undreamt directions, nor will it need you to sit down and follow a lengthy story progression. GUCCI Envy Me will though be an excellent, wearable fragrance that I could imagine becoming a signature fragrance for a non perfumista. This is spritz and wear perfume for people who want to smell pleasantly fragrant, who enjoy wearing perfume and feel undressed without it.

GUCCI Envy Me Gucci Hartwig HKD FlickrPhoto Stolen Hartwig HKD  Flickr

Opening with a green and fruit fizz the synthetic pink pepper reminds me of so much else available now but done nicer, it feels more expensive than a lot of the zingy fruit openings currently but is also eerily similar to some of the celebuscents we’ve seen in the last few years, it also feels cooler. Remember that GUCCI Envy Me was released in 2004, Tom Ford’s last year as Creative Director. I can’t remember but if he had anything to do with it it must have been a bit cutting edge then.

“靈光一觸 Ethereal Lights” /  夜之寧 Serenity at Night / SML.20130314.EOSM.03288Photo Stolen See-ming Lee Flickr

The heart gives me a musky blur of fruity flowers, it’s a bit like one of those fruity roses in the garden but sweeter than any I’ve smelled. If the tea were a little heftier or blacker it may have been more rose-ish and more interesting. The dry down doesn’t happen on my skin, one minute I’m a musky fruit tingle and then musky and then scentless. Around 3-4 hours on my scent hungry skin but the good thing is you will never overspray or skunk anyone.

As it is GUCCI Envy Me suffers on my skin from a lack of base, it’s a pretty, amorphous and ethereal sweet wash that has quite good sillage but not too much projection, maybe elbow length away in the first 2 hours thewn it’s come in to hug me and get a waft.

GUCCI Envy Me Gucci Chilled DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

Further reading: Scent Addicts and Ellen’s Blog
Fragrance Shop has 50ml starting at under $50 ($41 with coupon)
My Perfume Samples starts at $2.50/ml

Did you try GUCCI Envy Me? Thoughts?
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx

 

Trefle Pur by Jerome Epinette for Atelier Cologne 2010

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Post by Maya

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Hello APJ,

When my daughter Tamara found out that I was working on a review for APJ, she asked me to pick one of her favorite perfumes and do a review on it. I agreed to work with HER on a review. She has a great nose and her perfume impressions are as she puts it “abstract” and I should add, usually, but not always, single words which I make into sentences. That’s become my job in this collaboration.

We decided to pick one of 4 fragrances. We sniffed the first one and I asked, “What do you get?” She said with a big smile, “It smells good!” After I stopped laughing, I asked, “And what else?” She replied, “It smells good!” This happened with 2 more fragrances. We chose the one that when I asked the question, she answered, “Leprechauns”. So leprechauns it is!

Trefle Pur Atelier Cologne 2010

Trefle Pur Atelier Cologne FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bitter orange, cardamom, sweet basil
Heart: Clover, violet leaves, Tunisian neroli
Base: Moss, patchouli, musk

Trefle Pur opens bright, crisp, citrusy, and slightly green. After about 5 minutes, a little sweetness comes in and the crispness lightens a little. It stays sweet, but it’s not a floral type of sweetness. It keeps an underlying citrus note and a subtle spice appears. It’s during this opening that “I think of leprechauns, lush green fields, four leaf clovers, and streams.”

Trefle Pur Atelier 4-leaf Clover wikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Later on the “notes combine so I can’t really pick out anything specific. It becomes a little, bright, sweet, and spicy (not like pepper or cinnamon, a subtle spice) scent. It smells good!” Now is when it’s spring – a combination of sunlight, budding flowers and moss.

It wears close to the skin and lasts a few hours.

I asked her, “When would you wear it?” And she answered, “When I felt like it.”

Trefle Pur Atelier Cologne pxleyesPhoto Stolen pxleyes

Then I asked her if she minded me writing about her and how this review came to be.
“As long as you don’t tell my personal secrets, we’re all good.”
“What personal secrets?”
“The ones I don’t tell you about, so we’re all good.”

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and EauMG
LuckyScent start at $70/30ml to $175/200ml and have samples
Surrender To Chance have $3/ml or $19/7.5ml manufacturers mini

Now that I’ve stopped laughing, I have to ask: Have you tried Trefle Pur and what are your feelings about it if you have? I’m afraid to ask what you think of this review.

Maya

L’Artisan Parfumeur + Robert Piguet

Hello Australian Perfume Junkies,

Recently I was on the phone to my buddy Nick at LibertinePerfumerie and he was in the middle of his sale, apparently it was BEDLAM up there which is great as long as your super prepared. Are any of us ever? So I bought a bunch of gorgeousness and just as a throwaway line he said, “I’ll put some extra stuff in for you to do a giveaway.” So I thought, lovely a few samples are always welcome. In the pack arrived a 50ml Robert Piguet Futur and a 2.5 gram L’Artisan Parfumeur Concrete de Parfum Solid of Premier Figuier!! WOW! Both brand new in their plastic!

Futur Robert Piguet FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, neroli, green accords
Heart: Violets, jasmine, ylang-ylang
Base: Vetiver, patchouli and cedar

Aurelien Guichard was the perfumer and Futur was re-released in 2009, it’s green, green, green. A beautiful fresh and striking fragrance for everyone who likes a little green.

Premier Figuier L`Artisan Parfumeur FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Fig leaf, asafoetida
Heart: Fig, sandalwood, almond milk
Base: Lime, coconut, dried fruits, sandalwood

More green, Olivia Giacobetti creates a green, milky, matte with a touch of sweetness. The fig is unripe and the story more about the tree than the fruit, though there is fruit here and the dry down is really fun and interesting.

 giveaway kbairdPhoto Stolen kbaird

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

1 x 50ml Robert Piguet FUTUR
1 x 2.5 gram L’Artisan Parfumeur Concrete de Parfum Solid of Premier Figuier

P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

All I need is a HELLO with how you follow for you to be eligible for the draw.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie @LArtisan @RobertPiguet GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-1Xp #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 15th September 2013 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and Jin will pick a winner.
The winners will have till Wednesday 18th September 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Special THANKS to LibertinePerfumerie for these giveaways. Please visit their site because they are so generous and helpful. If you wonder why they are more expensive than the discounters or OS retailers it’s because they are the only licensed company selling their fragrances in Australia; where you know you are buying new, fresh and genuine product. The cost of importing, and buying the right to import, alcohol based fragrances (and having the right to send alcohol based fragrances throughout Australia, which are illegal to send in the Australia Post air system) is expensive and they must cover their costs to bring you these luxury goods.

Creature by John Pegg for Kerosene 2012

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Post by Poodle

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Hello APJ,

It’s hard to know just how some perfumes turn up on my radar. Sometimes a name catches my attention, sometimes a note. With Creature by Kerosene I found the name interesting and when I saw mint as a note I simply had to try it. I’d never really experienced mint in perfumes so I thought it would be a good scent to explore.

Creature by Kerosene 2012

Creature Kerosene FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Sweet birch, mint, lemon, jasmine, green tea, sage, violet leaves, cypress, cedar, patchouli, moss.

The best way I can describe this scent is try to imagine sitting out on the porch on a warm summer day. You’ve just cut the grass and now you’re relaxing with a glass of iced green tea with mint and the glass is rimmed with lemon and sugar. As you finish your drink a little sun shower passes through and dampens things just enough so that you smell a little of the dirt in the flowerbeds. It’s bright and green and just a little earthy.

Creature Kerosene Moss_Creature RefractedMomentsPhoto Stolen RefractedMoments

Creature opens with a blast of minty freshness. I remember reading somewhere that for the average perfume buyer it’s the top notes that sell the scent. If that’s the case, then Creature would be a challenge because the mint smacks you in the face and I’m sure the mouthwash factor might cause some people to give up quickly. Itʼs a sweet mint to me, not really herbal, if that makes sense. The lemon is there, but barely. After the initial blast Creature tames a bit and I find it worth the wait as the mint gives way to a touch of fresh sage and green tea. It’s green, grassy, and fresh. I can’t honestly smell the jasmine or patchouli. I can smell a touch of cedar. My guess is these notes give the fragrance a little bit of earthiness and keep the whole thing from smelling like mouthwash even though they aren’t that apparent to my nose. There is a good bit of time when it does smell like mint muddled with sugar. Or perhaps it’s a sweet mint gum. Oddly enough, I like it. It seems to go back and forth between sugared mint and fresh, clean green and gradually just fades away. I get a few hours out of it but I wouldn’t mind refreshing this one, like popping a fresh piece of gum in your mouth when the flavor is gone. For something with a name like Creature I find this to be surprisingly soft and wearable by either a man or a woman.

Creature Kerosene Johan J.Ingles-Le Nobel  FlickrPhoto Stolen Johan J.Ingles-Le Nobel Flickr

I wasn’t sure how I felt about Creature at first, didnʼt think I liked it, thought the mint was too much, but it stayed on my mind and I kept wanting to test it again. (I have to admit when I see mint in a perfume I always think its going to smell like I’ve pulled a muscle and used some pain relieving rub.) I find the minty burst in Creature to be fun in a weird way and once it subsides it actually becomes a rather lovely green perfume on me. There was no swampy odor, nothing slimy or moldy either. It does smell green, but any other mental associations I have with the word creature donʼt seem to fit.
As I was writing this, hubby asked what I was up to and I shoved my wrist under his nose. He took a good sniff of it and gave it a thumbs up. Despite all that I fear that poor Creature will be a scent you either love or hate based on how you feel about mint. Even though I’m known for making blind buys, I recommend sampling this one. I did find a few comments online that said it did smell swampy to some people. I detected nothing of the sort so oneʼs chemistry and nose may play a big part in whether this one works on you or not. Iʼm not even sure why I like it. It is an unusual perfume and probably not for everyone. That being said, I totally want a bottle of it.

Creature Kerosene Robbert van der Steeg FlickrPhoto Stolen Robbert van der Steeg Flickr

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and FromPyrgos
MinNewYork has $140/100ml and also you can buy samples
Surrender To Chance starts at $4/ml

So, are you a mint lover, or do you like it only in your toothpaste? Iʼm intrigued by the whole minty perfume thing. Are there any others I should try?

Thanks,
Poodle

Mito by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo 2012

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Hi all you APJs.

I thoroughly enjoy reading Olfactoria´s occasional “Finding Hidden Beauty” blogs. The Vero Profumo perfume house and indeed Vero herself surely fall into the Hidden Beauty category. Your average person is not going to hear of these magnificent perfumes. That makes her hidden doesn´t it? One of the positives of being a perfume junkie, searching out the best and rarest of gems.

Mito by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo 2012

A Verdant Oasis

Dayle Ann Clavin mito#12Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Jasmine, galbanum, oakmoss, magnolia, hyacinths, champaca, cyprus, citrus

There has been much written about Mito. It is so rich and green and sparkly and mossy, uplifting and elegant and gorgeous.
What more can I add? Velvety, magnoliay, cypressy …………. A Verdant Oasis.

My girlfriend drives an Alfa Romeo Mito and is a brilliant photographer. The coincidence was just too good to pass up. Now then, where would be a place beautiful enough to do justice to Ms Kern´s creation, without having to drive to the Tivoli Fountains, her source of inspiration?

Dayle Ann Clavin mito#A7

SALZBURG! Delivering cookies and taking pictures all in one go.

First location. Pferdeschwemme Fountain/Horse Wash. Built in about 1693. Purpose was to wash the horses before they returned to the stables. Downtown Salzburg. Now a beautiful fountain, and filming location of “My Favourite Things” in The Sound of Music. Perfect.

Dayle Ann Clavin mito#A4

As we were finishing off with this location, a street band made up of a group of South Americans walked by. Much to my surprise, my usually rather
quiet and artistic friend, leapt upon the unsuspecting tuba player, and insisted that he stop and let her put Mito into his tuba. After waving her hands around
to be understood, and then placing him in the correct position, she quickly took a few shots. To be honest he didn´t really know what hit him. She wanted to place
the bottle deeper into the tuba but he was having none of that. He then demanded a kiss (I obliged, on the cheek, haha! ) and scuttled off as fast as one carrying a tuba can, to catch
up with his bandmates. Job done.

Dayle Ann Clavin mito#A3

Next stop Residenzbrunnen/Residenz Fountain. (After an iced caffeine top up. It was 35 degrees and we had been taking pictures for over 2 hours)
This is a serious expression of Salzburg´s opulence. Ascribed to Tommaso de Garona (nod to the Italians!) and constructed at the wish of Bishop
Guidobald Thun from 1656 to 1661. It is 15 metres high. This is one amazingly beautiful fountain.

Mito Vero Kern Baroque Fountain "Residenz Brunnen"Photo Stolen VisitSalzberg

Salzberg Cathedral
(Maria took a pit stop here to splash water at the horses whilst singing “I Have Confidence”)

Dayle Ann Clavin mito#A9

So it was a wrap. Dayle Ann Clavin, photographer, was done. Five hours, a little sunstroke and a lot of fun. Not to mention classy pictures.

Vero Kern creates. Creates for us. Bearing a little of her soul each time. And I for one am indebted to her.

I truly cannot wait to try the Mito Extrait.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Now Smell This
LuckyScent has $215/50ml
Surrender To Chance starts at $6/.5ml

So perfume lovers, be thankful for what we have the opportunity to share in.

Bussis
CQ

Dayle Ann Clavin mito#A13

Dayle Ann Clavin mito#Ab13

Dayle Ann Clavin mito#A11

 

Dayle Ann Clavin mito#14

5 Spring/Fall Perfume Loves: Gabriella

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Post by Gabriella

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Hello perfume friends!

Lately I have been suffering a little bit of there’s-nothing-I really-desperately-want-to test-right-now-and-no-new-releases-are-causing-hissy-fits-of-‘oh-I-must-have-it-even-if-my-credit-card-breaks’ kind of ennui. So, instead of shelling out for new decants and going on stupendous sniffing sprees, I have been focusing on what I already own and rediscovering why I love them.

So, today I present to you

5 Spring/Fall perfumes from my collection that “I’m Loving Right Now!”

Datura Noir by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2001

Datura Noir Serge Lutens FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Datura Noir was the first perfume I knew I’d love simply from reading the list of notes. However, upon going to test in store, the (very knowledgeable) SA recoiled in horror, exclaiming: “I have never had that smell good on anyone!” One spritz on me and her abhorrence transformed into adoration. Datura Noir is a sumptuous, creamy and smooth white floral, accentuated by notes of bitter almond. And yes, this gourmand floral is probably not for everyone but for me, it’s the carefree, slightly tropical smell of sundrenched skin on a beach in Goa.

There are rumours that Datura Noir is, or is about to be, discontinued (please share if you know more), but it is still available at
Luckyscent, $130/50ml;
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3.99/.5ml.

Fleurs d’Oranger by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2003

Fleurs d'Oranger Serge Lutens FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Orange Blossom is a love or hate note for me. My skin tends to amplify citrus, meaning that the heady bloom can sometimes end up a hot mess. Not so with Fleurs d’Oranger. Tuberose and jasmine temper the orange blossom with their sweet, honeyed tones and the addition of cumin adds a “come closer and let me sniff you more” vibe. Fleurs also wins the prize for the perfume that has had the most negative reactionfrom another: my friend’s husband actually walked out of my house coughing and gasping for air after kissing me hello one evening (thankfully, he survived and is quite OK now).

Fleurs d’Oranger is available at
Luckyscent: $130/50ml;
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $399/.5ml.

Lady Vengeance by Romano Ricci for Juliette Has A Gun 2006

Lady Vengeance Juliette Has A Gun FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Mr M loves rose. I thought I did not. After Mr M and I got together, we decided to go and find a rose fragrance we would both like (come on, as if I needed an excuse to go perfume shopping!) Some roses we tested were too ripe and green, some were too dark, others too spicy and incense-y. One spritz of Lady Vengeance and we realised we’d hit the jackpot: it is the true Goldilocks rose for me. The full red bloom is tempered by the sweetness of vanilla and a a kick of patchouli. Not too green, not too sweet, not too dark, just sumptuous. Plus, the sillage on this one is simply amazing.

Lady Vengeance is available from
Luckyscent starting from $90/50ml

Le Parfum de Therese by Edmond Roudnitska for Frederic Malle 2000

Le Parfum de Therese Frederic Malle FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

When I am contemplating my perfumes of a morn and simply don’t know which one to wear, it is Le Parfum de Therese that usually wins. It is just such a happy and radiant perfume and unlike some others, it never gives rise to spritzing remorse a few hours in. But then, I am a big Roudnitska fangirl, and while my faves, Diorella and Diorissimo, are beyond recognition due to IFRA-induced plastic surgery, I’m very thankful that this beauty is still around.

Le Parfum de Therese is available from
Mecca Cosmetica starting from $155/3 x 10ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting from $6.99/ml

Musc Ravageur by Maurice Roucel for Frederic Malle 2000

Musc Ravageur Frederic Malle FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

 

I will always remember the day I fell in love with and came to acquire Musc Ravageur. I was living in London, it was a few weeks before Christmas and I woke up to find a world blanketed in pillowy white. I had an exciting, girly day planned of shopping, perfume sniffing and getting my hair done before dinner and drinks. I dressed up and blow dried my hair to perfection only to walk out into yet another snowstorm. Whitened coat and wet hair aside, my day went as planned. One spritz of Musc takes my back to that day of joyful chaos that ended with a fabulous meal, good conversation and the twinkling of fairy lights on snow covered streets.

Musc Ravageur is available at
Mecca Cosmetica starting from $142/3 x 10ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting from $5.99/ml.

So, have I mentioned any of your faves? What perfumes are getting a good wearing from you right now?

With much love till next time,

M x

Memories of Lanvin and Cocktail Parties

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Post by Azar

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Hi  APJ,

Like most perfume junkies I began my fragrance obsession at my mother’s dressing table, re-arranging her perfumes, copping a quick sniff or just admiring the beautiful bottles. My mother would encourage my budding habit, buying smaller versions of her favorites just for me or padding my weekly allowance so that I could try something new on my own.

Memories of Lanvin and Cocktail Parties

Arpege Cocktail Dress Mccalls Laineys Repertoire  FlickrPhoto Stolen Laineys Repertoire Flickr

Mom’s mid-century fragrances were representative of what most American women were wearing at the time including, of course, Chanel No. 5, Shalimar, Arpege, My Sin, Diorissimo and Jungle Gardenia. To me her bottle of Germaine Monteil Royal Secret was not quite mainstream and there were a couple of others that my inexperienced nose perceived as downright odd! One of these was Lanvin’s Spanish Geranium, the greenest, spiciest geranium I’d ever encountered floating atop the unmistakable Lanvin accord. I still love it and wear it to this day. The other was Lucien Lelong’s Sirocco, a potent oriental with a triple dose of coriander. My mother’s favorite was (and still is) Ritual by Charles of the Ritz.

Mom’s room was filled with treasures. Not only did she have a cache of perfumes and costume jewelry but also a closet filled with shimmering cocktail dresses. Mom is a very tiny woman, petit size “00”. Her cocktail dresses were like gorgeous doll clothes, strapless, pencil thin (Barbie? – no, no!) and complimented by a collection of tiny, exquisite shoes. Cocktail dresses were, of course, to be worn at cocktail parties. In the 1950’s and 60’s formal and semi-formal cocktail parties were serious social and business obligations for my parents and their friends. Shopping for dresses, perfume and accessories was more than just a frivolous pastime for my mother and the women she knew.

Arpege RetroCocktailParty FormalFringePhoto Stolen FormalFringe

Today these parties are no longer part of my mother’s social life, or mine either for that matter. The last truly formal cocktail party I attended was over 40 years ago in Tehran, of all places! I wore dark green silk and Guy Laroche Fidji. Times certainly have changed.

Do you have memories of your mother’s perfumes? How has your mother’s taste in fragrance affected your own? Oh – and what did you wear to that last cocktail party?

Azar x

Giveaway Time sassisamblogPhoto Stolen sassisamblog

LANVIN USA ONLY GIVEAWAY

Eau de Lanvin RubyLanePhoto Stolen RubyLane

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

There are 2 prizes this week in our Lanvin Giveaway. Each winner will receive:

1 x 2ml Eau de Lanvin
1 x 2ml Lanvin Extrait
P&H USA ONLY

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

All you have to do is tell me a favourite perfume from yesterday and who used to wear it around you: along with how you follow for you to be eligible for the draw.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie @LANVINofficial Arpege GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-1SM #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 12th September 2013 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and someone at Azar’s house will pick a winner.
The winners will have till Sunday 15th September 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Amber Pour Homme Intense by Prada 2011

Hey hey Girls & Guys,

I have a buddy Scott, he is pretty new to the perfume craving and has fallen deeply into the wormhole. Every now and then he brings me something to try. Isn’t that one of THE greatest things about having perfumista buddies? We all try different stuff and come back and comment, engage, love/hate, lemming and enjoy the whole process. Living in a big city makes it easy to face to face with people but even the fragrance boards on FaceBook have been instrumental in my finding of fragrance friends, all over the world so if I’m suffering insomnia there is someone around the world ready to chat. From a lonely little fragrance addicted person to part of a culture and community is a wonderful change.

Amber Pour Homme Intense by Prada 2011

Amber Pour Homme Intense Prada  FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Italian bergamot, Somalia myrrh, Indonesian patchouli, Madagascan vanilla, amber, patchouli, labdanum, vetiver, orange blossom, geranium, tonka, musk, leather, sandalwood, saffron

When I think Prada fragrance it’s often sheer, linear and smooth. A gentle wash of fragrance that can carry you from breakfast to ballroom and is so calm and contemplative that unless you are seriously waiting for progression to happen can basically run from go to whoa as a single piece. I love that whole aesthetic, simple and uncluttered in Prada’s design and think the brand is clever, innovative and middle tier luxe in their mass market offerings. Think Prada Candy and flankers, also the infusion range, very well put together and easy to wear fragrance with a moderate life and less than average sillage and scent bubble. You will smell good but not loud, which for much of the world is how they like their fragrances.

Amber Pour Homme Intense Prada FromTheNorth  FlickrPhoto Stolen FromTheNorth Flickr

Prada’s Amber Pour Homme Intense is a different kettle of fish. It opens strong and right off the skin jumps patchouli, myrrh, amber and vanilla with that spicy/plastic saffron and a backdrop of butter, that may be sandalwood or orange blossom or their combination. the bergamot only makes its presence known on my second application over the first later in the day and it could be the pretty rasp of geranium that I notice here too? I don’t know for sure but what I do know is that Amber Pour Homme Intense is weightier than all the other Pradas that I’ve tried, it smells more niche to me, a little less smooth and perfect, smokier and dirtier in a good way. More fun, adventurous and is there a little naughty? Like the moment in movies when finally the hair is let down, the tie and top button undone, where people start to forget their walls and start enjoying the moment. Not heavy, or cloying, there is still the Prada spareness but Amber Pour Homme Intense seems to be comfortable enough with itself that it might give a saucy wink or have a drink or do something unexpected, not outrageous but new. Do I make sense? Maybe a banker who takes their shoes off to feel the grass and sun at lunchtime or a director who decides that a Monday brainstorm at the pub at 4pm might provide better results than at a formal boardroom meeting, still a private room but less uptight. A lovely soft oriental fragrance that becomes very slightly skinnish towards the end of its life at around 4 hours.Have I noted that this is a perfectly unisex offering, please don’t think it’s for one or the other, Amber Pour Homme Intense is a good, very reasonably priced, everyone scent.

sunset mosquePhoto Stolen Matthias Rhomberg Flickr

Further reading: Chemist In A Bottle talks about original Amber Pour Homme and Now Smell This talks Intense
FragranceNet has $42/50ml before coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $3.50/ml

Have you tried either of the Prada Amber Pour Homme’s? Original or Intense? Do you agree with my unisex thought? Would you wear it?
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx

 

 

Bohemia EdP by Liz Cook for One Seed

Hey there Indie Perfume Lovers,

Just so you know ONE SEED is having a Gift With Purchase till Sunday 8/9/13 Australian EST

one seed text logo

spring flowers(plus 2 free samples of your choice with every order over $50 this week only)

In Australia we are gaining quite a perfume creation culture, one of my favourites is Liz Cook’s One Seed who also fly the 100% All Natural flag. Though I am not swayed by whether something is natural or created I know many of you are. There is something deep and real about good natural perfume that is so different from a lot of the fragrances we deal with on a regular basis that they are an acquired taste. Remember your first Serge Lutens after years of Elizabeth Arden or even mainstream CHANEL? It was quite a revelation and for many it took a while to recalibrate to this artistic and a little outrageous perfume ideal.

Bohemia EdP by Liz Cook for One Seed

bohemia One SeedPhoto Stolen One Seed

Top: Blood orange, pink grapefruit
Heart: Jasmine, apricot, rose
Base: Cocoa, tonka, black tea, amber accord, vanilla

From One Seed site: Both broody & playful; a bitter-sweet composition of alluring amber, smoked tea & dark chocolate set against luscious blood orange & vanilla tones, with a delicate heart of jasmine & apricot.

From the very first whiff I get JAFFA, a confectionary here in Australia that is chocolate/orange, like those yummy segmented chocolate oranges that the Christian segment of the world got in their Xmas stockings. I don’t get the tartness of grapefruit it smells more like a mildly bitter, dark orange chocolate. It doesn’t take very long, maybe 5-190 minutes for the jasmine to waft through sinuously. If you liked Olympic Orchids California Chocolate then this is a creamier, richer and less scratchy version, still dark chocolate but much milder and more processed. I find Bohemia to be the closest to a mass market niche fragrance that One Seed has yet produced, it opens intensely sweet gourmand then levels out to sensual foody, good enough to eat rather than cake or cookie, in the heart and dry down and could easily have come from Serge Lutens or Robert Piguet. In fact, Bohemia is even more intense and interesting than many of the modern day offerings from mass market niche houses.

bohemia One Seed ClockLady linda FlickrPhoto Stolen linda Flickr

After the initial 1-30 minute fireworks, depending on the day, Bohemia settles down to something warm, suede plush, elegant and lavishly chic. You know those people who make everything look effortless, great hair, well put together clothes without fussiness, who always look relaxed either in an Armani suit or jeans, at the races, beach, boardroom or buying yachts. It’s like they’ve worked out something in life, like they were given a playbook or thought so much about it when they were young that now they just coast secure in the knowledge that the hard part is over. This is the kind of person I think could wear Bohemia, or anyone who wanted to smell like that. It’s unusual, yes, but not wild, ridiculous or trying hard. This could very easily be a signature scent if you were that way inclined. AWESOME! I love the black tea that has a smoky vibe and cuts through the vanilla sweetness perfectly keeping it a little bit tough and edgy.

bohemia One Seed Incense Lady Gianni Cumbo  FlickrPhoto Stolen Gianni Cumbo Flickr

Another great thing about Bohemia is its longevity, I get around 5-6 hours of fragrant life and another couple of very close and skinnish scent. Nice sillage for the first two or three hours but never a huge scent bubble. After that it’s a friends and family scent, only those within your comfort zone.

One Seed site: 5ml Travel Spray $14.95 or $97/50ml
9 x 1ml Complete Range Sample Set $35 including World Wide Postage

 

giveaway ThinkDigitalWorldPhoto Stolen ThinkDigitalWorld

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

There are 2 prizes this week in our ONE SEED GIVEAWAY. Each winner will receive:

1 x 4ml manufacturers spray sample of Bohemia
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

All I need is a HELLO, with how you follow for you to be eligible for the draw.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie One Seed GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-1Wp I FOLLOWED @oneseedperfumes #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 8th September 2013 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and Jin will pick a winner.
The winners will have till Wednesday 11th September 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.