Geranium Bourbon by Miller Harris 2005

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Post by Tina G

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A nice surprise decant from a friend! An intriguing scent – I’d not come across Miller Harris as yet, and I couldn’t begin to think of what Geranium Bourbon entailed. Was it a boozy scent? Did it really have geranium? And how did those two things work together? After a bit of research I discovered that geranium bourbon was actually a particular type of geranium. OK, sure, let’s give this a run through….

Geranium Bourbon by Miller Harris 2005

Geranium Bourbon Miller Harris FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Palmarosa, cassis, geranium
Heart: Violet, rose, black pepper
Base: Vanilla, amber, patchouli

Geranium Bourbon opens with a watery pink rose, like rain which has been cupped in a heart of a bloom and then poured across my skin. It is so refreshing and light, really wonderful. After about 10 minutes there is a peppery scent which comes through along with a lemon ‘juice’ accord. I’ve never smelt geranium bourbon plants themselves, but fresh geraniums definitely have that peppery/lemony background to their leaves. The scent deepens throughout the first half hour, gradually becoming more earthy and green.

I enjoy the dry down of Geranium Bourbon as it transitions from fresh & light, to earthy, and then some amber & smoky notes come through with a trace of vanilla in the basenotes. And then this becomes for me one of those scents which triggers some strong visual imagery – I hope you don’t mind if I indulge in the story it wove for me:

Geranium Bourbon Miller Harris spring PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Sitting on the cold, wet white wood of the outside furniture & wrapped up in a blanket stolen from near the inside fire, I sit watching the drips of water fall from the plants in the luscious English summer garden. The storm shower passed through quick and heavy though there is no sign of sunlight yet through the grey sky. The trellis behind me is thick with a blooming tea rose vine, the myriad of simple pink flowers releasing a pervasive but delicate fragrance into the now-still air. The earth in the flower bed has been turned recently and is damp and rich.

Geranium Bourbon Miller Harris Angeleyes_Randy WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The bedded violet and geranium plants have been beaten by the heavy rain. There is a lemony-rose scent from the geranium flowers, mixed in with a tart herbal pepperiness from the succulent leaves. For a while I sit in the coolness just watching, listening, and breathing, until the damp starts to seep in. Snuggling down into the blanket further I can smell the sweet smoke from the lounge room hearth embedded in its fibres. From somewhere inside the house, a tendril of sweet vanilla from something delicious baking is enough to rouse me from quiet contemplation and head inside to the warmth.

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and I Smell Therefore I Am
Perfumery Australia has $110/100ml
Posh Peasant has samples starting at $4/ml

What about you? Have you tried Geranium Bourbon? Any of the Miller Harris range? What did you think?

Wishing you all a lovely week.
Tina G

Rose Praline by François Robert for Les Parfums de Rosine 2008

Howdy Crew,

Remember I told you that Michael Edwards (Fragrances Of The World book) had done a wonderful gifting of many of his fragrances, here is another from that generous haul. I saw three Parfums de Rosine bottles and they called to me. The first two I have been incredibly lucky with but Rose Praline skirts the unwearable for me.

Rose Praline by François Robert for Les Parfums de Rosine 2008

 Rose Praline Les Parfums de Rosine FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, bergamot, rose oil
Heart: Geranium, dark chocolate, rose, tea
Base: Amber, musk, sandalwood, cacao

François Robert, the perfumer, has had an interesting fragrance creation history including five of the Bex London frags, a bunch of the Rosines, Mary Greenwell Plum and Lanvin’s Vetiver.

Rose Praline Les Parfums de Rosine cake Badziol40 PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

OOOH! Green, sweet and warm is how Rose Praline opens, a wet and sticky sweetness cut through by green. They are at an awkward standoff, both seeming to push against the other making the opening a very interesting and surprising start to a fragrance. They have used a note that vintage Dana Ambush used, I don’t know what it is but I find it mildly nauseating, not enough to scrub but up close it is queasy making for me. At elbow length from my nose it’s lovely, a gorgeous waft of dark, rich, spicy rose, up close though it smells like the water left after leaves & flowers have been left to rot in the vase. GACK! Ha Ha Ha! How hilarious, I really can’t stand it up close, it makes me so uneasy.

Rose Praline Les Parfums de Rosine Van_Gogh_-_Vase WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Later through the lifespan of Rose Praline a lovely dry tea-ish hint comes through. Like tea pre hot water, a dusty, dessicated feeling in the scent that next to this voluptuous, full to overblown rose is a tonic and calming raft. Like a drum softly beating time to the rest of the orchestra and keeping the crew stable.

It’s next morning and the one thing left on my skin is the weird/funky/sour note from Ambush. I woke up lying on that arm and Rose Praline is still quite intense. Maybe this bottle is on the turn or maybe the stresses of selling, moving and organising and the bad eating habits attendant have skewed my chemistry. Maybe because I haven’t been gluing wrist to nose in writing mode but merely enjoying the fragrance at a distance on previous wears. Maybe I’ve found a fragrance that is less than perfect for me, it happens.

Rose Praline Les Parfums de Rosine Flickr Pére_Lachaise_Cemetery WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Parfums des Rosine has €78/50ml
First In Fragrance has €78/50ml
Aedes de Venustas has $145/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/ml

Have you tried Rose praline? Any of the Rosines?
Portia xx

Prelude to Love by Calice Becker for by Kilian 2008

Hi hi hi Sniffas,

While in London earlier in the year my mate Tara (of Olfactoria’s Travels) gave me a set of the by Killian samples. It’s beautifully presented in a little velvet pouch of 2ml vials. On my return from traveling I searched high and low and couldn’t find the damn thing, then I forgot about it in the way you do. While cleaning up stuff in anticipation of our move I discovered the baggie in a small cardboard box that had been packed and put to the side with a bunch of other stuff from the trip. I would swear I looked in the box thousands of times……

Prelude to Love by Calice Becker for by Kilian 2008

Prelude to Love By Kilian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Seville orange, Amalfi lemon, bitter orange
Heart: Ginger, neroli, rose, cardamom, orange blossom, freesia, pink pepper, lavender
Base: Iris, Cypriol oil, musk, Russian leather

Basenotes gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, orange, lemon
Heart: Ginger, neroli, orange blossom
Base: Florence iris

The glorious, pithy citrus tinged with green is juicy and ripe. It is the warmest cool fragrance, with a very interesting oily/petrol taint that I find peculiar and inviting. Like pashing/snogging a recently showered and cologned mechanic. There is something extremely lived in about Prelude To Love that makes it more than a cologne, it’s a cologne involved in a sexual tryst, even to the lightly breathy orange blossom and neroli in the heart.

Prelude to Love By Kilian Orange_zest WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

As an aside: I was standing next to a gardenia hedge early this evening and the absolutely gorgeous/disgusting fragrance emanating from the flowers was completely engulfing, I was transported into a world of scent, shut my eyes for a moment and just breathed in the luscious, lascivious, overwhelming fragrance.

Prelude To Love is nothing like that but it does have elements of that sweetly erotic, human in close contact but cleanly washed idea. Freshly washed flesh but in a hairy nook or crevasse that always maintains the humanity.

Prelude to Love By Kilian sext mechanic PinterestPhoto Stolen Pinterest

Then, not long after I am swept away by an extremely pretty floral, it’s a bouquet, thick, rich and heavy. That’s what’s so weird about Prelude To Love, though it feels a bit cologne-ish, the heft and nuance seem too deep and mercurial for it to be put in such a simple category. This cologne has cajones. A honeyed, animalic sweetness runs under the whole life of the fragrance that has me smiling as I get huffs, very, very nice to wear. I can see why Prelude To Love is still so popular.

Prelude To Love is fabulous, you can tell it is the best. You want similar results but for a fraction of the price? 4711, even the newest formulation, is a very good bright citrus cologne. You will have to reapply more frequently but isn’t that half the fun?

Prelude to Love By Kilian QM2 Sydney WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Olfactoria’s Travels
LuckyScent has $155/4 x .25oz Travel Spray Set
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

Do you love the by Killian range? Is there a favourite amongst them for you? I love sweet Redemption and Back to Black, Prelude To Love is wonderful, I’m pretty sure though that there are 6 other citrus frags in my wardrobe that I’d reach for first.
Portia x

 

Cuir de Lancôme by Calice Becker and Pauline Zanoni for Lancôme 2007

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Post by Trésor

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As I am writing this the very first snow of the season is beginning to fall and winter’s crystalline breath is rushing through the labyrinth of tree branches outside my window, sounding with an orchestral percussion as if greeting the frigid embrace and welcoming it with open arms. My world is now captured within a veil of glimmering virginal white and my heart longs for a warmth that’s slipped away as sand through an hourglass.

Cuir de Lancome  Grandma Katina Rogers FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Not the physical warmth of being cocooned within a favourite blanket but an intangible emotional warmth that only blooms with the reminiscence of being held in the arms of one who’s love has served as both shelter and unfailing nourishment. Someone who’s love remains only as radiant aura held within a sacred chamber deep within your heart. Few fragrances are able to manifest such cherished memories for me, to transcend space and time and revive as this fragrance does. Today I review Cuir de Lancôme, a magical potion and olfactory time machine who’s precious vapors transport me and pay tribute to my beloved grandmother. A pulchritudinous woman, a force of nature who’s luminous soul taught me of absolute joy and unconditional compassion.

Cuir de Lancôme by Calice Becker and Pauline Zanoni for Lancôme 2007

Cuir de Lancome Lancome FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, saffron, bergamot
Heart: Patchouli, hawthorn, jasmine, ylang-ylang
Base: Orris root, birch, styrax

The opening of Cuir de Lancôme is a spectacular symphony of brilliant, spherical mandarin and delicately bitter bergamot. The effect is so incredibly familiar, not dissimilar to the aroma of an exquisite artisinal soap procured on a journey through the south of France. This is a most beauteous prelude to what I can only describe as one of the softest, most creamy and positively unctuous leather notes I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing.

Cuir de Lancome leather_jacket WikipediaPhoto stolen Wikipedia

Cuir de Lancôme is not akin to the subversive, BDSM black of Etat Libre d’Orange’s Rien but a master class in restrained elegance. Utterly smooth with textural symmetry to that of whipped butter and kissed with delicate swirls of saffron and I’m certain other spices which are so meticulously blended that they simply register as a gossamer veil of whispering heat. Beneath this leather smolders a rich, deep and dry patchouli interlaced with the balsamic splendor of a languid styrax and an exceptionally photorealistic note of birch.

What’s so terribly beautiful about this act of the fragrance is how it pulsates from the skin in a soft and gloriously diffuse halo, maintaining a poised restraint while beckoning you closer as if to draw you into a tender hearted embrace. It is this precise moment where Cuir de Lancôme is most fragile but as with all creatures of beauty it is in this fragility where it exhibits it’s most extraordinary power, an immaculate vulnerability. An achingly divine swan’s song leading the fragrance into conclusion, just traces of powdery warmth dancing upon the skin.

Cuir de Lancome Swarovski_swan elektriksheep DeviantARTPhoto Stolen DeviantART

I usually get a good 8 hours wear out of this deeply beautiful elixir with a moderate sillage that’s surprisingly enveloping despite it’s modest nature. Though I prefer it as the temperatures descend I think one could wear it any time they pleased, it’s really quite versatile in that way.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Olfactoria’s Travels
Galaxy Perfume has $79/50ml
FragranceX has $102/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/ml

I’d love to know which fragrances bring to life memories of an incredible happiness as this does for me. Sending each of you all of my love.

Trésor xx

Onda Extrait by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo 2007

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Hi APJ

1. “There was nothing Lucy liked so much as the smell and feel of fur. She immediately stepped into the wardrobe and got in among the coats and rubbed her face against them, leaving the door open, of course, because she knew that it is very foolish to shut oneself into any wardrobe.” C.S Lewis. The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe.

Onda Keep CalmPhoto Donated Val CQ

2. “I think I’m on another world with you
I’m on another planet with you
You always get under my skin
I don´t find it irritating
You always play to win ……” “Another Girl, Another Planet” The Only Ones 1978

3. “When you go in search of honey you must expect to be stung by bees.” Joseph Joubert 1754 – 1824

Onda Extrait by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo 2007

Onda, Stilletos and One Year On.

onda Vero Profumo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vetiver, ginger, mace, coriander

From Vero Profumo site:
“Ambrosial whisperings, sweet nothings, tender and potent – and deeply moving.”

Onda StilettosPhoto Donated Val CQ

It is just about a year to the day that I received my bottle of Onda Extrait.

There has been much written about Vero Kern’s Onda masterpiece. Like it or hate it, it will leave you reeling. And it delights me. It took time to understand it, it wasn´t love at first try, Slowly it wrapped its coils around me. Now I long for it.

onda Vero Profumo Foggy Hill GeographPhoto Stolen Geograph

Onda permeates my thoughts. I listen to music and feel Onda. I read and feel Onda. When I met Vero Kern she was wearing Onda. If I had not know that it, I would have wondered if she was wearing anything at all. It was a part of her. Vero Kern says “I´m not interested in “clean” scents. I need characterful scents both in my creations but also as a wearer. Besides this, I love everything that reminds of the smell of skin.” Onda Extrait in that case is a breathtaking success.

Onda is very erotic, very sensual, but furthermore it is calming.

onda Vero Profumo Black Stilettos Dubois PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Like wearing black patent stilettos, Onda is for when the time it right. It might not be often but it is critical to own both.

Onda is much more than a perfume, indeed it is art. It is a part of the current exhibition “Nirvana, Strange Forms of Pleasure” at the MUDAC (musée de design et d’arts appliqués contemporains) in Lausanne, Switzerland, which runs from the end of October 2014 until the end of April 2015.

onda Vero Profumo Fleshy Scent JLightning FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Now Smell This and Olfactoria’s Travels
First In Fragrance has €160/7.5ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $10/.25ml

A year on I say thank you to Vero Kern. Her creations complete me.

What about you? Do you love Vero’s work? Have you tried them? If so, what was your favourite?

Bussis
CQ

Peace – Love – Perfume by Ellen Covey for Olympic Orchids 2014

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Post by Azar

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Hi APJ!

The latest fragrances from Olympic Orchids, Peace, Love and Perfume, were created as a numbered series for the Peace – Love – Perfume Facebook group and released on August 31st of this year. Each of these new scents (each flower child) is a take on one aspect of the “Hippie” counterculture/youth movement of the 1960s and early 70’s.

Peace – Love – Perfume by Ellen Covey for Olympic Orchids 2014

Peace Olympic Orchids FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Ellen Covey describes the first in the series, Peace, as “the serious oldest child”.

Listed Notes: Frankincense, cedar, New Caledonian sandalwood, vetiver, double distilled patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, tarragon, Oregon lavender.

My Perceived Notes: Peace opens with a startling dose of tarragon and lavender quickly dissolving into woody resin, frankincense and sandalwood. This incense blend, with just a breath of patchouli, suffuses the skin with an aura of contemplation, lingers for 24 hours and finally fades to a memory of frankincense and vetiver touched with vanilla. Peace is rich, warm, resinous and comforting, perfect for blustery fall and winter evenings by the fire.

Love Olympic Orchids FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Love, “the middle flower child”, is a humid floral featuring an exotic blue lotus accord.

Listed Notes: Blue lotus, sandalwood, frankincense, benzoin, humid air, vanilla, musks, tarragon.

My Perceived Notes: Once again I am momentarily surprised by the minty, camphorous, sweet tarragon top note. A wet blue lotus, with a hint of vanilla and resin, quickly takes over the composition and remains in place throughout the long life of the fragrance. Love finishes with a suggestion of damp vanilla and musk. I would be comfortable wearing Love anytime of the year but especially in spring and early summer.

Perfume Olympic Orchids FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

The third fragrance, Perfume, is the bright “free spirited youngest child”.

Listed Notes: Cedar, benzoin, vetiver, frankincense, pine wood fraction, myrtle, airy note, Oregon lavender, pink grapefruit.

My Perceived Notes: Perfume is really a cologne with an Olympic Orchids’ twist. Instead of the ubiquitous lemon or generic citrus and herbs, this cologne opens with a combination of pink grapefruit and sweet-sour myrtle continuing into pine, cedar and lavender. Perfume does not radically change over time and fades completely from my skin at about five hours. The refreshing grapefruit/myrtle combination and the cooling effect of the pinewood are perfect for long, hot summer days.

Even though my nose doesn’t register everything, I do NOT encounter any phantom notes or the “obvious but not present” effect in any of these fragrances. In the words of Flip Wilson’s 1970’s comic character Geraldine “What you see is what you get”! Each scent has been designed by the perfumer to be worn separately or layered together for a variety of stunning effects. Peace, Love and Perfume are available at Olympic Orchids boutique website (www.orchidscents.com) individually and in two different boxed sets, perfect for holiday giving.

Peace, Love and Perfume for All!

Azar xx

Giveaway Time sassisamblogPhoto Stolen sassisamblog

Peace – Love – Perfume GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 Winners who will each get:
1 x set of 1ml samples of Peace, Love and Perfume
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell ell us about your favorite vintage/retro scent, describe your scent memories of the 60′ and 70’s (if you were around in those days) or which Olympic Orchids fragrance do you like best?

Extra Chance?
Tweet: On The Nose: Rosa Ardiente by Kenneth Cory GIVEAWAY @KPCNose  

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 27th November 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org or some fun way
As Portia is away on Holidays we will release winners when possible, keep an eye out.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

Kelly Calèche by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2007

Hey Perfume Junkies,

Do you remember when Kelly Calèche was released in 2007? It was a huge kerfuffle, and it seems both a million years ago and yesterday. There was a while that it was the fragrance de jour in the clubs and I think about one in five young women of a certain cadre were sporting it day and night and smelling so young, hip and fresh, even (dare I say it?) GROOVY! I think that many Sydney girls will have fond memories of fun times in Kelly Calèche,

Kelly Caleche Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Grapefruit, narcissus, lily of the valley
Heart: Mimosa, rose, tuberose
Base: Leather, iris

The opening of Kelly Calèche is a dry, green, astringent burst that shocks you awake and into the here and now. This fun high octane fizz only lasts a few moments but it is an excellent mind refresher. Then the whole fragrance changes into a surprising leather that smells on my skin like the leather, glue, colours and stitchery inside the back of brand new high heels, never worn, straight from box and tissue paper. The flowers and fruits big moment are all over for me so quickly, around 15 minutes, and then play a light backing track to this almost patent leather smell. (From Hermès, Hermès, Hermès in 2012)

Kelly Caleche Hermes pink leather norulesstock DeviantARTPhoto Stolen DeviantART

So fun, light and yet very present, that oh so soft suede-ish iris dry down is my favourite part, though other reviewers find it not so good. A whisper of fragrance that huffs out at you every so often to remind you that you’re fragrant. It’s just for you and your nearest and dearest friends. It’s no wonder that Kelly Calèche was such a hit at the time, I wonder if those pretty young things still wander round in a soft fog of sweet iris leather or if they’ve moved on?

I grabbed my 15ml mini bottle from Birgit of Olfactoria’s Travels wardrobe clean-out back in 2012. To be honest it doesn’t see a LOT of wear but I have made decent inroads into it, there is some good air in the bottle. I like to wear it when I need a pick me up, have to be somewhere that a loud or hefty frag would be inappropriate or to remember the lovely girls who wore Kelly Calèche when it was released.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Now Smell This
Beauty Encounter has $52/50ml EdT
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Are you a fan? Has Kelly Calèche ever been your go to or does its quiet, refined leather waft leave you bored and stone cold?
Portia xx

Beyond Paradise by Calice Becker for Estée Lauder 2003

Hello Hello Hello,

While moving I have rediscovered an old favourite bottle.

Way back in the early years of this century I had a beautiful partner called Varun, we traveled often to his homeland India. On our first journey to India I was taken by the lovely smell of jasmine and marigold that women would wear in ropes in their hair, a thick, rich and intoxicating smell that could become completely overpowering in a small shop with two or three women thus adorned.

Beyond Paradise Estée Lauder  taj-mahalPhoto Stolen Pixabay

So 2000, 2001 and 2002 visits were filled with this glorious and enchanting waft at unexpected times, not every woman would wear the garlands and I never found out what prompted it though at weddings they were everywhere. Sadly the practice is seen less and less in modern Incredible India.

Beyond Paradise by Calice Becker for Estée Lauder 2003

Beyond Paradise Estée Lauder FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange blossom, blue hyacinth, Jaboticaba berry, lemon, bergamot, grapefruit
Heart: Laelia orchid, pink honeysuckle, Japanese mahonia, jasmine, gardenia
Base: Natal plum blossom, golden melaleuca, zebrano wood, ambrette seed, amber

Fast forward now to 2003, and I am traveling alone to meet Varun who has had to go home to run the family business. As I’m walking though the Duty Free an Estee Lauder rep hands me a miniature bottle shaped like a teardrop with my gifting purchases. The bottle itself was so beautiful, exquisite, a rainbow teardrop and inside was a fragrance filled with bittersweet heartache. The smell of glamotous Indian women wearing their jasmine and marigold hair garlands, the hot wet heat of southern India’s spring and the cooling breeze blowing over lotus ponds into Kerala wooden pole houses. On my first sniff I was overcome with nostalgia and nervous tummy butterflies of anticipation.

Beyond Paradise Estée Lauder Flower_garland WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Ha ha ha! Of course, I arrive in India and Varun is like, “What for are you wearing that nasty cheap roadside stall jasmine oil?” Ha Ha ha! So away my little bottle went for that holiday but on my return Beyond Paradise became the scent of India for me. Even though I have been to the oldest and most reputable scent wallahs in Old and New Delhi, Jaipur and Kerala it is Beyond Paradise that takes me to the first few visits to India every time.

Beyond Paradise Estée Lauder  Varun PortiaVarun & Portia 2004

Basically Beyond Paradise opens like a vase of flowers, all wet, green leaves, a little crackle of bitterness, crisp white flowers and softly sweet fruits, it goes more white flowers through the heart and then dries down to dry white flowers, a very little bit fleshy and ripe, then fades to nothing musky woods. The story isn’t big and the shifts aren’t monumental, Beyond Paradise is fresh and light but gives you really good sillage and projection for most of the day.

The Little Book of Perfumes LuckyScentPhoto Stolen LuckyScent ($18 at LuckyScent)

Fast forward again to 2011 and I am given a book called The Little Book Of Perfumes by Luca Turin & Tanya Sanchez. Though I had been a mad collector of frags on and off through my life never had I been given such purpose in my collecting as that book gave me. Instantly I wanted to try ALL 100 fragrances in that book, but to find something I have loved so well for so long in that book was a complete surprise.

Further reading: Sweet Diva and Scentualist
Beauty Encounter has $55/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Are you a Beyond Paradise fan? What was one of your excited fragrance epiphanies?
Portia xx

Tubéreuse by Mona di Orio 2011

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Post by TinaG

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Whilst first wearing Mona di Orio’s Tubéreuse I must admit I was confused. It really wasn’t the “tuberose” fragrance that I had expected to find….

Tubéreuse by Mona di Orio 2011

Tubereuse Mona di Orio FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, green notes, bergamot
Heart: Tuberose, benzoin, heliotrope
Base: Musk, amber, coconut, milk, cashmeran

Tubéreuse opens with a flash of floral milkiness. This quickly changes to an enticing sweet pink pepper with a shadowy smoky bergamot lifting and supporting it. The scent shifts and changes rapidly in the first 10 minutes, slowly settling into a light fresh green accord. I can smell a warm and slightly waxy scent, like coconut water, translucent and milky. The greenness draws a linear thread through the life of the scent as a supporting anchor point. There is a gentle powder which joins the flow at about 1 hour and it stays this way during the dry down. So fresh, peppery, floral, clean, milky, waxy – I realised this fragrance is a study of the tuberose flower itself.

Tubereuse MdO TinaG2Photo Donated TinaG

I found my thoughts being drawn back to evenings where I’ve had bunches of tuberose in the house. Tuberose is “night-blooming”, in that the bloom’s fragrance intensifies during the early evening to night. The time of transition to twilight is a treasure. If I can resist switching a light on, instead maybe lighting a candle, with some quiet background tunes, and may or may not have a glass of chilled white wine – it’s lovely to sit for a while letting my thoughts ramble in whatever direction they take me.

Tubereuse MdO sydney PattyJansen PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

The scent of real tuberose at this time of day is quite simply stunning. Its fragrance edges into the consciousness, bringing thoughts back to the present and reminding that it is this moment, this time, which is precious. It reminds me of the novel “Island” by Aldous Huxley – in a fictitious country where the inhabitants recognise the importance of the ‘conscious self’, taking a step back from your thoughts to be able to see more clearly. The islanders had trained mynah birds to call out “Attention”, and “Here and Now” at random intervals as a reminder to bring one’s self back to the moment. The growing intensity of tuberose scent at twilight has this same effect – the headiness is all encompassing and so beautiful, why wouldn’t you just want to breathe deeply, silently watching as the day fades to calmness, and colours start to drain away into grey-blues and blacks.

Tubereuse MdO TinaGPhoto Donated TinaG

It was at this point whilst wearing Tubéreuse that I realised I was experiencing the work of a master artist. Mona di Orio has captured the impression of night-blooming tuberose with a deeply profound and exquisite skill. There is an expression, that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Trying to dissect and analyse Tubéreuse you could definitely identify the parts, but that’s not the story, not the whole picture, and certainly not the limit of its boundaries. The fragrance has a three-tiered connection with me now – the practical identification of notes, a reminiscence of the quiet times, and the deeper meditative space that the ‘present’ can provide. I’m grateful for that journey.

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Perfume Posse
Peony Melbourne has $230/100ml with FREE shipping in Australia
Parfum1 has $230/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $7/ml

How many of you have tried the MdO Tubéreuse? Or any of her scents? Did you love them or not?

Tina G

Gardenia Flower by Sheila Massetti for Perfume & Skincare Company

Hi APJ,

Sometimes when I’m in the bath or shower I have to make a difficult choice, “Do I use this product and cut out a swathe of fragrances that will not be happy marriages, do I use this product and bugger the consequences or will I use something else” (yes, I know that my life is incredibly low stress and that I have my priorities skew whiff). This is a serious conundrum. I recently put a bar of the Perfume & Skincare Company Gardenia Flower Pure Vegetable Glycerine Soap in the bathroom and the next day Jin (who rarely mentions my bathroom choices for us) said it was his favourite so far. It’s soft and silky, quick foaming and leaven my skin feeling fresh but not tight, we use it on our faces and bodies. For only $8 it’s a complete bargain too.

It does mean though that I can not test fragrances after using it because I have a distinct smell of gardenia up to 3 hours after my bath. So I have been wearing a few white flower scents, especially the soaps companion…

Gardenia Flower Extrait by Sheila Massetti for Perfume & Skincare Company

I know I’ve written about this fragrance before but sometimes you all need to be reminded of things. Here is what I wrote in the previous post about the Perfume & Skincare Co range:
GARDENIA: Gardenia is one of the scents I am repeat applying, not only is it a killer soliflor fragrance that people “get” straight off the bat, but it is a huge compliment getter. Every time I wear it at least one person asks what, who, how and how much. One night I had 4 people do this. Now if you wear scent often you will know that 4 people in one night do not ask about fragrance that you are wearing, it was uncanny. If you love white flowers and gardenia especially, then this fragrance will be for you too.

Gardenia Flower Extrait Perfume & Skincare Company GreyerBaby PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

What I know now that I did not know back then is that you cannot steal the fragrance from a gardenia, it needs to be recreated in the laboratory. Also, that many people try to do a gardenia but most of them simply do not understand how a real life gardenia smells. Sheila Massetti gets it. There’s the creamy, fatty facet: the petrol facet: the breath and shit facet, the bleu cheese facet, the sensual erogenous facet and a hundred other pieces to the puzzle. Gardenia Flower captures all of these and gives the closest photo realistic rendering of a gardenia I have yet found. Simultaneously clean and feral, divine and damned, Sheila Massetti has created the gardenia fragrance at the pinnacle of the heap.

Gardenia Flower Extrait Perfume & Skincare Company  Nadir D'Onofrio FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Perfume & Skincare Company has $10/5ml Sample Atomisers, $8/Pure Vegetable Glycerine Soap – 160g and a range of other great products.

Did I mention they are an Aussie company from New South Wales hinterland?

Portia xx