Baque by Slumberhouse 2012

Hello Niche Nerds.

I make no disguise of the fact that I love this crew. Every time I try a new fragrance from them there is something magnetic, audacious and animal in every bottle. This particular decant came from a split run by Ruth K on FFF if my memory serves me correctly.

Baque by Slumberhouse 2012

Baque FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Apricot, cedar, vanilla, tobacco leaf, artemisia and ambergris

I have an apology to make, Baque is no longer available and was a limited release made for IndieScents. Josh tells me though that Slumberhouse will be bringing back a couple of their previous Limited Editions, Sana and Flou, in coming weeks so do go check out the Slumberhouse website for those.

Baque Slumberhouse green girl SpiritPartagePhoto Stolen SpiritPartage

So Baque, opens woodsy, sweet, rough and dangerous! The artemesia giving a gorgeous bitter and herbal depth that is at once antiseptic-fresh clean and healthy-damp compost-heap earthy. The apricot and vanilla sweetness cuts across all this forest through the mid range of wear and gives a syrup like patina that would be welcome on pancakes. I am sad that I never bought a bottle because Baque is so deep and luscious. I also detect a hint of freshly used coffee grounds and bitter, dark chocolate. Extraordinary scent that you will never find the likes of in Sephora unless we see drastic change in GP consumer tastes.

Towards the dry down the whole fragrance warms slightly into the vanilla and wood giving a golden warm sepia tint to the whole, much like the below image.

As with all the other Slumberhouse fragrances that I’ve tried and worn sillage is wonderful and projection moderate. Too fragrant for close office quarters, and probably quite a few not too close workplaces, unless fragrance is a welcomed addition to your person. I am fragrant from one spritz for more than 6 hours.

Baque Slumberhouse Wood girl ListOfImagesPhoto Stolen ListOfImages

From Slumberhouse: Slumberhouse is a boutique cologne label in the heart of Portland, OR; created and inspired by urban and street culture, art, film and music – especially the new school of hiphop and graffiti artists. We are a group of young gents who march to our own beat, embracing an absolute disregard for other brands, trends and marketing cliches. Slumberhouse represents an unequivocal love for the art of fragrance making.

Further reading NotableScents and SmellyThoughts looks at a few in the Slumberhouse range
Slumberhouse Website
Parfum1 has a good selection also
SurenderToChance has a selection of the Slumberhouse samples and decants

What from the Slumberhouse range have you tried? Did you enjoy their work? I’d love to hear about your Slumberhouse experiences, good or bad.
Till tomorrow,

Portia xx

Pure Vanilla by Lavanila Laboratories 2007

Hello Vanilla Lovers,

Have I got a special treat for you today! Sophisticated vanilla…

Pure Vanilla by Lavanila Laboratories 2007

Pure Vanilla FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Patchouli, freesia, heliotrope, Madagascar vanilla and tonka bean

I have just realised how little vanilla-centric fragrance is in my collection. When I think vanilla I go straight for JPG Le Male, it’s still a fragrance that will make me follow a person wearing it to continue the sillage trail sniffing. Sure, many of my fragrances have or end in a vanilla of sorts but this is a whole new ballgame.

Pure Vanilla is a natural fragrance (whatever that means) and opens with a fabulous rush of lactic, spicy, vanilla. It’s awesome! Rich, warm and comforting, sexy and sensual. Great sillage and excellent scent bubble, though I wasn’t skunking people, and everyone elses fragrance was smelled through a vanilla haze tonight. I felt really beautiful while wearing Pure Vanilla, beautiful and rich. Considering how affordable it is, that is an awesome feat. I enjoyed the ride so much that at home tonight after work, 6 powerhouse hours later, I wanted to relive the fairly linear journey again. Maybe the flowers and patchouli add something elegant to this creation because it’s not just vanilla, it’s so much more: more interesting, more alluring and more beautiful. I am so impressed that I will track a bottle down while in the USA in May.

Pure Vanilla Beans chefleticiaPhoto Stolen chefleticia

If you live in the USA or Canada then go to Lavanila Laboratories with $58/50ml
SurrenderToChance starts at $3/ml

Till tomorrow,
Love, hugs and fragrant waftings.
Portia xx

Hothouse Flower by Ineke Ruhland for INeKE 2012

Hello Fellow Fumies.

I have a great online fragrance buddy, Undina from Undina’sLookingGlass, she is smart, cool and always a step ahead. Sometimes I am lucky enough to get a small Undina curated frag pack in the mail of things she thinks I will like, or that I must sniff. This one got slightly lost in transit but when the shiny blue package arrived I was over the moon. Swapping is a great way to find out more scents with only the charge of some decanting supplies and postage. Thank You Undina again

Hothouse Flower by INeKE 2012

HotHouse Flower FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Green tea, green leaves and cypress
Heart: Gardenia, galbanum, fig and olibanum
Base: Guaiac wood, musk and corn silk

My first thought upon spritzing is gardenia, I so love that fresh fragrance and when it feels green, broken branch, sap and crushed leaves overlaid with gardenia I am in fragrance heaven. There is a luscious creaminess in Hothouse Flower that hovers above the green making our cool, sunny Autumn day here in Sydney feel like Spring. I feel as if I should walk outside to see the daffodils and spring runner iris in bloom instead of the Camellias flowering and the Liquidamber just starting to turn red at the top. A fresh gardenia with only the very slightest nod to its skanky, animalic deep notes, Hothouse Flower is a fresh burst of crisp that warm slowly over time but not a lot. It sweetens and the resins add a hint of amber or caramel, maybe it’s the fig adding a sweet milky note? We have a long waist high gardenia hedge four doors down the street and when it’s in flower we get a beautiful soft and elegant waft of an evening that drowns all other natural smells in the street, this smells like that hedge from our front yard. It is both fabulous and alluring, no wonder Billie Holiday chose it as her signature flower. In case you haven’t got the message, I freaking LOVE Hothouse Flower and will make it my first purchase from Scentsation in LA, May 11.

Though I can smell Hothouse Flower and feel extremely fragrant it doesn’t have a huge projection, nor does it take over a room quickly but half an hour later I come back to the room and I can smell a tiny pretty faded gardenia memory. About 4 hours of fragrant before I am left with only a whisper.

Raw Umber on Fragrantica said it excellently: Hothouse Flower smells like Spring erupting on all sides. It’s Spring on steroids. It is extremely uplifting and soothing….. It’s like natural anti-depressants. If you like gardenia, but dislike those heavy, sneeze-inducing, overpowering florals, this variation on a true to life green gardenia should help you begin your day on the right foot.

Hothouse Flower InekePhoto Stolen INeKE

Further reading NowSmellThis and Undina’sLookingGlass
INeKE has $95/75ml in the USA but doesn’t ship to Australia
SurrenderToChance starts at $3/ml

Have you tried this line? I liked Field Notes from Paris and thought it excellently done. Have you a favourite from the line yet?
See you tomorrow,

Portia xx

LUSH Ultrabalm + Coriander, Green Chili, Walnut and Yoghurt Chutney Recipe

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Greetings APJ Fragrance Fiends!

Lush. British slang term to describe something pleasing or desirable.

“I had the most lush meal last night.”
“That perfume is lush.”
“Look at him/ her …….. he/she is totally lush.”

LUSH ULTRABALM – by LUSH

LUSH Ultra Balm VegetarianLivingPhoto Stolen VegetarianLiving

Ingredients:

Organic Jojoba Oil
Candelilla Wax
Rose Wax

We´ll keep this short. This stuff is totally amazing. For a million things. Too long to list. You can look it up for homework.
Why am I writing about it? Well, for all you folks whose skin “eats fragrance”, or who just want their scent to last a little longer, Ultrabalm is the business.
If you know that already, then skip this and look at the recipe. For those who don´t, it´s simple.
Put a little of the Ultrabalm wherever you put your fragrance. Then put your fragrance on top. That´s it. Your perfume will last much longer. The very slight smell that the Ultrabalm has goes away.
I use it for any scent that I think of as an “anointing” scent. Rose, patchouli, amber, sandalwood, Tauer, Vermeire ………
But who cares?? Use it for whatever you want. I would never, ever be without it.

http://www.lush.co.uk

http://www.lushusa.com

http://www.lush.com.au

Coriander, Green Chili, Walnut and Yoghurt Chutney Recipe

CQ´s Occasional Fragrant Cooking Secrets

GreenChutney FoodVivaPhoto Stolen FoodViva

This stuff is awesome.

Good sized bunch of fresh coriander (some stems are OK)
Yoghourt of your choice (I like Turkish or Greek) – maybe about a half cup, maybe a bit more
Fresh green chiles (too taste, obviously)
10 or 15 walnut halves
Salt
(slices of thin red onion to decorate if you are feeling creative)

Plug in a food processor (!)

Chuck the whole lot (EXCEPT the salt) in a food processor. Process. Not at rocket speed. Bit by bit.
Not thick enough – add some more walnuts, not hot enough – more chiles (remembering it gets hotter over the hours and days) want it more creamy – add more yoghourt. Add the salt at the end, you´ll probably need a decent amount. Anything with chiles needs lots of salt. You don´t add it to the food processor because it makes the chutney turn runny. I like it to be thickish. But make it how you want.

This chutney dances on your tongue. Eat it with everything. Well maybe not cornflakes. Keeps in the fridge for a few days just fine. Smells lush.

Bussis
CQ

Series 3 Incense: Avignon by Bertrand Duchaufour for Comme des Garcons 2002

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Gabriella

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Avignon by Comme des Garcons 2002

Hello Everyone, Do we need to have a strong memory association or reference for a perfume to really move us? This is the question that popped into my head as soon as I tested Avignon by Comme des Garcons. Why? Because it moved me in such a way and yet, I couldn’t really fathom why. It’s an incense-based perfume and meant to be a fragranced homage to Catholicism. Many reviews, including the lovely Portia’s a few months ago, have emphasised the evocation of childhood memories of Catholic rites: days spent at mass surrounded by swinging censers and altar boys.

Avignon Mass Incense PoliticsDailyPhoto Stolen PoliticsDaily

But I’m not Catholic and I’ve always disliked incense. In fact, I avoided Avignon for many years, despite the glowing reviews for these very reasons. My scent impression of incense before trying the scent was of those cheap joss sticks they sell in two-dollar shops. And the closest I have come to being Catholic was having a serious girl crush on Josephine Byrnes in the mini-series Brides of Christ. For about a week or two, I thought how cool it would be to become a nun. (Ed: Josephine Burns and I were at the same drama school, lived in the same area and used to catch the train to and sometimes from school together. She was always the most beautiful young woman)

My fragrance loves tend to be white florals because I have spent my life surrounded by them. My grandmothers and mother wore white floral perfumes, Mum often had vases of lilies in the house and gardenias were a constant of my childhood summers. My first perfumes: Revlon’s Jontue and Cacharel’s Anais Anais built on that trajectory of association.

However, I also realise that we people who love perfumes can learn to appreciate and love new and different notes. But this, for me, is something different. As we sniff more and more, we can see beauty in the things that we once found ugly or appreciate a note that once we would have been happy to overlook. Perfume is an art form and as our noses become well trained, we can fall in love with something that we didn’t understand before. For a perfume to really well and truly move me though, to really feel like I am applying a second skin, I’d always thought it would need a strong evocation of something important or a strong memory.

And yet, that first drop of Avignon on flesh felt completely right. It was another lightbulb moment where I had the “wow” factor and I knew I’d end up buying a bottle.

Avignon FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

The perfume features notes of roman chamomile, cistus oil, elemi, incense, vanilla, patchouli, palisander, ambrette seeds.

For me, Avignon is all about the central theme of frankincense that undulates between smokiness, earthiness and brightness. It segues seamlessly on the skin between these different facets: the palisander bringing out the woody character, the patchouli amplifying the dark earthiness and the ambrette and chamomile giving the sense of brightness and joy. It’s quite a linear fragrance that moves softly and slowly on the skin. Its an introspective fragrance best suited to moments of quiet contemplation, evoking that sense of serenity you would need at times of prayer.

????????????????????????????????????????Photo Stolen ImpulseMagazin

And that’s why Avignon spoke to me so profoundly at a time in my life when everything felt discombobulated and stressful, Avignon took me to a place I needed to be. A place of tranquillity and reflection, a place where I could shut the door on the chaos that has been my life over the past month and I could just simply “be”. That is the magic of perfume.

For other more complete reviews, please see OlfactoryObsessed and Olfactoria’s review on PerfumeSmellin’Things
Luckyscent has Avignon for $US80/50ml.
SurrenderToChance has samples starting at $US4.59/ml.

Have you tried Avignon and what did you think of it? Have you ever tried a perfume that has completely floored you with it beauty and you can’t work out why?

With much love till next time!

M x

Believe by Britney Spears 2007

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Post by Katrina

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2007 was the year we saw Britney Spears suffer a very public breakdown. She spent time in rehab, shaved her head and lost custody of her children. 2007 is also the year that the Britney Spears fragrance Believe was released. Believe, one of the best perfumes from Britney Spears was released at a time when her life was in turmoil. Its times like this when you need to believe in the future. Britney managed to get through the tough times and get back in the spotlight for the right reasons appearing as a judge on America’s X-Factor in 2012.

Britney Spears Believe 2007

Believe FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrance notes from Fragrantica
Top: guava and tangerine.
Heart: honeysuckle and linden blossom.
Base: patchouli, amber and sweet praline notes.

The green Believe bottle is quite spectacular, shaped like a multi-faceted triangular prism.

Believe starts out fresh and juicy with a delicious opening of tangerine and guava. This perfume deserves more than a quick sniff because if you rely on first impressions you will miss the best of this fragrance as it develops into a warm and spicy scent. There are beautiful soft florals and the perfume opens up with earthy notes from the patchouli and amber. Believe feels comforting with an easygoing patchouli that is cozy and warm. The praline carries on a delicious quality to the fragrance.

(Ed: Believe uses a softened version of the Mugler Angel base and is surprisingly wearable)

Britney Believe HotCosmeticsPhoto Stolen HotCosmetics

I haven’t been able to track down the name of the perfumer of Believe. Basenotes have the perfume listed as unknown. If I developed this fragrance I would proudly put my name on it.

Further reading at Now Smell This
FragranceNet starting at $15.95/30ml
MyPerfumeSamples has $2/ml or $4/5ml

Watch my video review of Britney Spears Believe on my CelebrityPerfume YouTube Channel

For more celebrity perfume reviews visit my website Celebrity Perfume Store

Katrina xx

Eau de Cartier Essence d`Orange by Mathilde Laurent 2010

Hello Lovely APJ Family,

Eau de Cartier Essence d`Orange 2010

EaudeCartierEssenced`Orange FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Oranges, bergamot
Heart: Violets
Base: Patchouli, cedar

I love the sparkly, fresh burst of opening here, all bright ORANGE! It’s so fun and frisky and perfect for warm weather wearing as the Northern Hemisphere heads towards summer. For us down here it is still eminently wearable on warm Autumnal days like today, we are rocking 25 degrees celcius and the sun is shining gloriously. The violets at the heart of Cartier Essence d`Orange are like woody and powdery soft whispers awaiting the magic of very clean patchouli and woods to round them out and make them more interesting. I love the barely there dry down, it really acts as if my skin smells better than it does, as if it has melded with my scent. Cartier Essence d`Orange becomes a shimmering subterfuge that makes it an excellent date night fragrance, especially if your skin needs to smell 100% on point for the late night playtime.

I am not swept away in a cloud of magical and wondrous memories, nor am I transported to other lands when I wear Cartier Essence d`Orange but it is a lovely scent, quiet and restrained, that gets quite a bit of skin time. I’ve nearly finished my second 5ml decant and ordered a FB online. Honestly, I am lucky to get 2 hours of full fragrance here but that whispering dry down is a killer on my skin and I love it.

OrangePatchouli mosleylanePhoto Stolen mosleyLane

Further reading NowSmellThis
FragranceNet has 100ml/$50
MyPerfumeSamples has $2/m but I bought $6/5ml Cer-Ay-Zee CHEAP!!

You better get a sample first, this may only be so good with my chemistry. If you have tried Cartier Essence d`Orange, what were your thoughts?
Portia xx

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle by Bruno Jovanovic 2013

Hello Fabulous Fumies,

If you have been anywhere around the scentbloggosphere this year then Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle by Bruno Jovanovic would certainly have registered on your radar. Uber famous frag royalty meets Belguim’s fashion icon in a scented cloud of mutual admiration. Quite the story…

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle 2013

DriesVanNoten FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Sandalwood, guaiac wood, tonka bean, vanilla, saffron, jasmine, musk, bergamot, lemon, nutmeg, cloves, patchouli, woody notes and peru balsam

With all the hype I was totally ready to be underwhelmed by this offering, which is always a good place to start smelling because you can’t be let down. Warm marshmallow sweet and slightly spicy vanilla opens that smells so familiar, like someone I love is nearby, even though I’m sure that I’ve not smelled this mix before. Every time I wear Dries Van Noten it has instantly calmed and unruffled me, and today I am wearing the dregs of a 5ml decant.

Each previous time I have worn Dries Van Noten for the purpose of reviewing it has grabbed my head and asked me to just sit and enjoy its beauty. The whole fragrance feels extremely uncluttered, though it is dense. It goes through a milky, nutmeg stage that reads egg flip to me. An egg flip was dinner sometimes when we were young and made as a great treat for us kids, whole egg, nutmeg, vanilla, ice cream and milk. It was huge and delicious. Nowadays when I think how strict Mum’s budget was I think that maybe she was eeking out her ration by giving us a liquid dinner out of, at that time, extremely cheap materials. I’ll never know now but my sister Jodie and I would feel so great on an egg flip night.

There is the most beautiful woods here too, some resinous amber references, a soft whiff of jasmine that flies mainly under the radar and patchouli, clean and fresh washed. All there making a beautiful chorus under the egg flip.

You must try Dries Van Noten, it is a rich and glamorous fragrance that has me chomping at the bit for more, I’m so sad to have finished my decant. You know what that means!

PalazzoTournabuoni holzbau-brunnerPhoto Stolen holzbau-brunner

Here’s the Frederic Malle site: A perfume built around natural sandalwood, chosen for its softness and its character, and the fact that it is simultaneously exotic and evocative of the tradition of great classic perfumes. This very short formula made of very precious materials, generates a sober but distinct sensuality. It is, in my eyes, a fair parallel to Dries van Noten’s world. ITS CREATOR: Bruno Jovanovic

DriesVanNoten TMagazinePhoto Stolen NYTMagazine

Tom at PerfumeSmellinThings reviewed Dries Van Noten today but has had a polar opposite experience to mine and also today ScentsOfSelf’s Dries Van Noten review is filled with ambivilence.

Further reading GrainDeMusc and Kafkaesque and Patty at PerfumePosse
Frederic Malle starts at $125/3 x 10ml (I think this is IDEAL for splitting)
SurrenderToChance starts at $6/ml

What a stunner of a fragrance. Have you tried it? Are you likely to?

Till tomorrow, take good care of yourselves and waft fragrantly,
Portia xx

Uomo? By Moschino EDT 1998

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Guest Post by Margeaux

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This month I’m reviewing a fragrance that I knew absolutely nothing about when I bought it on sale some months ago. Launched in 1998, UOMO? By Moschino is an interesting fragrance that I am still a lot unsure about.

Uomo? By Moschino EDT 1998

Uomo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Basenotes lists the following:
Top: New Hedione, Rose Wood, Transparent Coriander, Kumquat
Heart: Cyclamen, Cinnamon Leaves, Clary Sage
Base: Cedarwood, New Amber Accord, Artemisia, Sunlight Accord, Musk

Moschino is an Italian fashion label started in 1983, and became famous for innovative, colourful and eccentric designs as much as for founder Franco Moschino’s criticism of the fashion industry. The labels first men’s fragrance, Pour Homme, was released in 1990 with UONO? following many years later in 1998. Produced under license by Euroitalia, there are now 4 men’s and 10 women’s fragrances released with the Moschino name.

I love woody scents best of all and that was what originally caught my eye in the description of UOMO? when I was shopping for something new to smell. That and I’d never heard of it so chances were that I’d be buying and wearing something that few others would also own. Win win in my book.

The bottle is sleek and hefty, angled clear glass with a silver cap that is made for masculine hands. Its big but fits just right. The pale yellow perfume inside gives the overall bottle an understated and classic look, and it looks good on my dresser.

But that for me is really where the love ends, as I can’t find anything about UOMO? to really rave about. The opening is nothing remarkable, gently fresh and a little citrus, but without any big pow, punch or hit that I seem to desperately want from it. Some of the online reviews suggest that since reformulation it’s lost a lot of its kick, and that seems plausible to me.

Uomo? Moschino FreshCitrusSalad CulinaryCachePhoto Stolen CulinaryCache

I’m straining to get much from the mids or even the base notes as it settles down, and although I’m sure that something is going on, its failed to command even an ounce of attention. Wondering if it was just me and whether or not perhaps I was immune to its charms, I’ve worn it around several friends with good noses and not a single one has mentioned anything at all about it, when they are usually very forthcoming with an opinion or comment on what I am wearing.

I practically drown myself in UOMO? and it smells nice, but nothing that makes me stop in my tracks. It also doesn’t seem to last very long either, and in fact, it disappears entirely for me after only 3-4 hours.
(Ed: Reads like a good work frag for after the gym)

All in all I find this very ho-hum, and very disappointing. I won’t be purchasing it a second time.

FragranceShop has $21/50ml
MyPerfumeSamples starts at $2/ml but $6/5ml

Until next time, smell good.
Margeaux x

CHANEL: 31 Rue Cambon + Little Black Jacket in Milan

Hello Fabulous Fumies,

Recently I was in Paris and was lucky enough to visit one of my fashion shrines. Coco Chanel was one of the people we studied at Fashion School and I was intrigued by her rags to riches story even before then. To finally stand at the gates of her atelier and shop was extraordinary for me. A wonderful moment I will never forget.

CHANEL: 31 Rue Cambon

31RueCambon FragranticaPhoto stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, green notes, black pepper
Heart: Ylang ylang, iris, rose
Base: Labdanum , patchouli

I love the opening of 31 Rue Cambon, it already smells like a CHANEL fragrance from the first whiff. A cool and classy, slightly flamboyant rush of everything in the notes, the labdanum from the base already in evidence giving a snuggly, fur like glamour under the bright sparkle of the citrus and pepper. For about 15-30 minutes I sit entranced and snuffling at myself, enjoying the magic that a CHANEL Exclusive can bring. The whole feeling of richness and lavish excess. GORGEOUS!!

Pretty soon the flowers drop in for a quick hello and they have a slight leather vibe before the patchouli and labdanum take centre stage, from then on in it’s all about the base with faint squeaks for attention from the other players till drydown.

Honestly, I think 31 Rue Cambon is just too sophisticated for me. It’s too refined, soft, gentle and elegant. This is my third proper wearing of it and I really want to try the parfum version. Maybe it has the oomph I need to get me going, I can tell it’s beautifully blended and structured and it’s my skin that’s eating the early parts and events. Don’t let my lack of success here put you off, on someone else I can tell it will be superb. I have about 3 more ml to use, maybe my nose will click as I get to know 31 Rue Cambon.

31RueCambon MarinaCarlsonPhoto Stolen MarinaCarlson

Further reading GrainDeMusc and MuseInWoodenShoes both take us on entertaining and interesting historical tours, worth a look.
You can buy a bottle in all CHANEL stand alone stores, they will also let you spritz for free and be extremely gracious about it.
SurrenderToChance starts at $3/ml

CHANEL: Little Black Jacket in Milan

Karl Lagerfeld got a fabulous group of people from fashion, art and big business to wear their Little Black CHANEL Jackets and he photographed them. This is a quick video of the opening night of the exhibition. FAB-U-LOUS!!

Till tomorrow, all the love in the world to and for you.
Portia xx