style

Blu EdP by Bruno Acampora 2012

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Hey Ho All,

I love it when the LuckyScent Sample Pack arrives. Always some new and interesting stuff. My only bug bear is that they don’t do a 2ml spray sample set. I get only 2 wears from .7ml and it is enough to test the product but not enough to fall madly and deeply in love. I have only bought one full bottle from the sample sets and that is not a very good strike rate in any person’s books. Wearing a fragrance only at my desk and round the house is a review not a life changer, or a shopping inducement.

Blu EdP by Bruno Acampora 2012

Blu FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tuberose, ylang-ylang, orange, sandalwood

A bit of background, this crew has been popular in Italy for years and Bruno Acampora, according to IndieScents, was a beautiful jet setter in his heyday and there is an Andy Warhol portrait of him!! Blu was a Fragrant Oil till last year and was created in 1974.

ZOOM! From zero to tuberose in seconds. the opening of Blu is ridiculously beautiful, capturing the buttery and the green facets of this glorious flower.Blu is so in your face at the beginning it’s almost a drug store Tuberose, my favourite kind. A big sappy blast of green and white flower with ylang ylang buoying it up and helping it float. If you could see me right now pushing the back of my wrists together in a downward V to get more fragrance up my nose. Close to there is a fabulously poisonous extremity in the fragrance that at arms length becomes a beautifully blended dream. The orange that I’m getting is white pithy and juicy, and the sandalwood hums below everything.

Blu’s facets weave a harmonious blanket, that sometimes lets surface one of more in prominence. After an hour or so the orange really makes a dash for centre stage, it comes back again later too. As the fragrance develops I get a salty seaside twang hiding that hints at dark places, a slight minty skew and some smoke/incense too sometimes. The only mentioned note that stays constantly in the middle to background is the sandalwood until the end where it’s all that’s left, still pumping out lovely velvet softness for hours after the rest have packed up and gone home.

capri avi2012Photo Stolen avi2012

I have never been to Capri but Blu certainly conjures the memories of fabulous nights spent on islands in Australia, Greece and the South Pacific. The heady, intoxicating aromas of white night flowers, citrus and surf. Scent bubble is incredible for the first 2 hours before it dies back to a dull roar, sillage likewise but you will leave a beautiful coruscating trail for up to 5 hours before Blu becomes a skin scent of sandalwood.

Further reading IndieScents introduces Bruno Acampora and MimiFrouFrou really gets to know Blu
LuckyScent has 50ml/$135 and .7ml/$5

Have you tried Blu? Any of the Bruno Acampora scents?

So today I am going to spend 10 minutes with Blu on and close my eyes and dream about my holiday. I know it will relax and refocus me so please don’t bother me till I’m done. Leave a comment and I’ll get back to you after my internal gloating meditation is over.

Love to you all, till tomorrow,
Portia xx

Axe Excite Movie: Behind The Scenes At Firmenich

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Hello Fragrance Lovers,

I love the heading today, it reads like a snuff film, doesn’t it! Sorry to let you all down but back in September last year Victoria on BoisDeJasmine showed this Behind-The-Scenes movie of the way an Axe fragrance is created, I imagine much the same as fine fragrance with a miniscule budget. It shook me a little because though I kind of understood that millions of people were involved in creating the smells of our daily lives I do sometimes forget that these people who, even though they can and do, aren’t making fine fragrance and are still about doing the best they can within extremely rigid parameters. It really opened my eyes.

AxeExcite dailydesigninspirationPhoto Stolen DailyDesignInspiration

The patent excitement shown for getting the job of Axe Fragrancers is wonderful and genuine. No one is even hinting that they’d rather be doing JPG’s next blockbuster, there is no embarrassment. Just some great people doing a job that will bring fragrance to a bunch of people. Interesting.

I am very conscious that sometimes I come across as condescending. I mean none of it here and am seriously happy that these guys are great at their jobs and love it, whatever end cost level they are working at in the moment. In fact, a big Axe contract would net the manufacturers way more money that a niche fine fragrance win would.

Enjoy!
Portia xx

AXE EXCITE Story stolen BoisdeJasmin 13/9/12


Axe Excite Movie I

Axe Excite Movie II

Leaving On A Jet Plane COMPETITION!!

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 61 Comments

Hey Gang,

Jin and I are off on holidays. We leave today and I’m FREAKING EXCITED!! I haven’t taken a holiday in over 2 years and we are doing some catching up. I thought you might like our itinerary in case you happen to be in or around the cities we are visiting and would like to meet in person for a coffee, dinner, fragrance sniff, tour, dance, show or maybe you would like to meet me so you can slap my face. WHAT EVAH!! We’ll be glad to meet you no matter the reason and we can do pictures to show on the blog. It will be awesome!! Leave a comment here. If you follow the blog via email then I will be able to reply easily.

19th jan Slovakia (Meeting and hanging with Jin’s brother and family)
21th jan Prague
25th jan Vienna (Birgit and family! Dinner and shopping)
30th jan Budapest
4th feb  Venice
7th feb Paris (Neela Vermeire!)
12th feb Korea (Meeting Jin’s parents)
19th feb Australia

Daily Fragrance Reviews will continue as normal, barring serious incidents. I have pre-done a few and some will be done on the road. Most of our Guest Posts are in but a couple missed the boat, and if you think I’m editing on my HOLIDAY you can go get nicked. Saturday and Sunday may suffer from can’t-be-bothered-itis. I am hoping to do some happy snaps and bought this week stuff but it may not happen. Honesty reads like laziness and you can be pretty sure there’ll be some of that around. If I am a bit less diligent in my comment answering I know you’ll understand too.

Freighter koreanairprPhoto Stolen koreanairpr

COMPETITION

Please try and guess which of these frags I’ll be wearing on the plane from Sydney to our stopover in Korea? The first and second to get it right will get a 5ml decant of one of the fragrances I buy in Paris or Venice.

Bulgari BLV Pour Homme
CHANEL No 5
Aftelier Parfum de Maroc
Narciso Rodriguez for Her
Guerlain Lys Soleia
Annick Goutal Mandragore
Bal a Versailles
Versace Dreamer
Diorissimo Vintage Parfum
Estee Lauder Brasil Dream
Olympic Orchids Ballets Rouges
Paris Hilton Siren
Versace Blonde
CHANEL no 19 Parfum
Royal Bain de Caron
DKNY Gold
Patou 1000
SOIVOHLE Rosa sur Reuse
Nikki de Saint Phalle
CdG Incense
Estee Lauder Azuree
Guerlain Shalimar Vintage EdT
Hermes Un Jardin Apres La Mousson
Gucci Guilty
A Wing & A Prayer Berkeley
Annick Goutal Songes
Guerlain Jasminora
One Seed Courage
Jessica Simpson Fancy Nights

I’ll still be in touch. Cherio!!
Portia xx
Peter, Paul & Mary LIVE

Plum by Francois Robert for Mary Greenwell 2010

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Hello Frag Friends,

Do you ever rummage around in your samples and find things you have no memory of getting? That is exactly what happened today. So finding something I vaguely remember reading about but not remembering a damn thing about it except the is it a Chypre or not question I was thrilled to find it to try for myself. I couldn’t find a lot of it for sale on the net and wonder if it’s been discontinued? Amazon has a few, so does Parfum1 but elsewhere there is merely white noise. Of reviews though there are many and they range from completely beserk adoration to thoughtful and questioning disdain. The premise and pedigree of this fragrance seemed to divide perfumistas and I though that was interesting too. So what we are going to do today is try

Plum by Mary Greenwell 2010

Plum greenwell FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Peach, bergamot, lemon, plum, black currant
Heart: gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, rose, jasmine
Base: sandalwood, oak moss, patchouli, amber, white musk

Well Plum opens with a dirty great punch in the nose with a fruit basket, it’s fizzy and fun and harks back to some of the big ole perfumes of yore. Citrus, black current and plum, but not like you’ve taken a bite of a plum more like plum jam or an ideal plum plus sugar. The flowers follow behind, winding through the sweetness with a white flower trumpet call that, like the horns in a 70s disco song, call the fragrance towards the chorus, the top and heart play off each other for a while showing flashes of themselves before settling down to a slightly human, breathy bouquet with a bit of spice. Of course the modern re-inventions of oakmoss aren’t the same as the original, they are less deep, dark and humus rich but I do get a sense of them among the woods and the amber is not sweet on me but a little dry, maybe the patchouli has the upper hand here? The sandalwood is the last impression I have with Plum by Mary Greenwell, it warms the fragrance back up at the end while it gently becomes my skin again.

WhiteWeddingBouquet VictorTheFloristPhoto Stolen VictorTheFlorist

I get quite good lifespan with 4 – 6 hours of noticeable fragrance, depending on my day. Where would I wear it? If I needed to be fragrant but not overpowering, if I wanted to be reminded of some of the fabulous but now defunct chypres, enticing or trying to befuddle then this is your frag. It is a strong persons fragrance, or someone needing a bit of strong, and sassy. This is what I imagine Charlize Theron and Anne Hathaway wearing to the Academy Awards.

CharlizeTheron USMagazinePhoto Stolen USMagazine

Further reading NowSmellThis and CaFleurBon
Parfum1 has 50ml/$100
SurrendetToChance starts at $4/ml

Did you try Plum when it came out? What did you think?

See you tomorrow for more merry frag madness.

Portia xx

Oscar For Men by Oscar de la Renta 1977 (1999 re-release)

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

.

Guest Post by Margeaux

.

Hi all, and thanks for joining me for my very first Junkies review. Please be kind as I am new to discussing the smells that I have loved for some time or have just been recently introduced to. You may have seen me in some of the live sniff movies that have happened – my first was the Cher Uninhibited sniff that Portia and I did way back at the start of 2012. I tend to be quite conservative in what I will buy or try, and tend to stick to the big name fashion houses but slowly over time Portia and the rest of the APJ gang are schooling me on smelling all that the perfume world has to offer. What a great journey ahead of me!

Oscar For Men by Oscar de la Renta 1977 (1999 re-release)

OscarforMen FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, fir resin, bergamot, pepper
Heart: Nutmeg, lily, lavender, jasmine, violet leaf, cloves, rose
Base: Leather, sandalwood, musk, balsam fir, vanilla, incense

So today I’m tackling a scent from one of fashion’s most iconic designers – Oscar de la Renta. This is one of his few men’s fragrances and what he lacks in quantity, he certainly makes up for with quality.  Oscar for Men was launched all the way back in 1977 but relaunched in 1999 so its far from new. Sadly, it doesn’t seem to rate so highly anymore over at ODLR as it doesn’t appear on the website at all – to find out anything about this one you’ll have to go to blogs and perfume sites.

But on to the scent itself, and it’s a lovely fresh, herbaceous fragrance, that is cool and even slightly aquatic to my nose. The opening notes remind me of walking through moss covered forests everything slightly wet underfoot but fresh smells wherever the wind wafts. After it settles down the freshness remains, but it becomes a more subtle blend of woods and pepper, and on my skin I still get just a hint of something sweet – not in a fruity way, but just with this tantalizing hint of sweetness like a not quite ripe granny smith apple perhaps. Still quite tart, but definitely some sugar in there too. When I close my eyes while smelling this, I get lots of images of forest greens rushing my mind.

HerbBouquet bynaturePhoto Stolen ByNature

I was initially disappointed with how long it lasted on my skin as I’m a pretty heavy spritzer to make sure I get a good stink happening, but the first go of this one seemed to disappear quite quickly. In more recent times as my nose is recovering function after many years of smoking, lo and behold, Oscar lasts a lot longer than I initially thought. Now I will often get a waft late into the afternoon that is quite charming, still woodsy fresh and appealing.

LinenSuit mens-fashion.lovetoknowPhoto Stolen mens-fashion.lovetoknow

Other reviewers have noted that this is a good fragrance for summer months and I would heartily agree. Its definitely not one you’d wear in the dead of winter but otherwise I’d be tempted to wear it just about any other time of year. I tend to headache pretty easily (JPG’s Man and the original Tommy Hilfiger were instant headaches for me) when a scent is simply too much, but this sits nicely after it dries so you should be good to wear it just about anywhere you want to.

CheapSmells has 100ml EdT from $26
MyPerfumeSamples from $2/ml.

Smell ya later sassy stinkers!

Margeaux xx

The Enchanted Forest by Bertrand Duchaufour for The Vagabond Prince 2013

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

.

Guest Post by Jordan River

.

The Enchanted Forest by The Vagabond Prince 2013

EnchantedForest EdP

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, aldehydes, sweet orange (traces), flower cassis, blackcurrant leaf, hawthorn, effects of rum and wine, rosemary, davana.
Heart: Blackcurrant buds absolute (by LMR from Grasse), CO2 blackcurrant (by Floral Concept from Grasse), Russian coriander seed, honeysuckle, rose, carnation, vetiver
Base: Opoponax resinoid, Siam benzoin, amber, oakmoss, fir balsam absolute, Patchouli Purecoeur®, castoreum absolute, cedar notes, vanilla, musk

Arvo 1.30pm I’m beaming as I stroll this enchanted forest. Straight off I hear John Muir say; “The clearest way into the universe is through a forest wilderness.” Will you stroll with me? These trees are giant blackcurrent bushes with super fragrant leaves and juicy juicy buds. The light rain is made of pink peppercorns sparking with aldehydes and sweet orange. Once this settles on your skin you feel energized and cleansed. Across the valley is an alembic aroma of wine or perhaps something stronger. Deeper into the heart of this forest you are walking on rose petals, past wild carnations and banks of vetiver until you come to The Balsam Fir Tree and a carpet of pine needles. This spot is where I paused and lay down for a fragrant rest after removing a log from my eye. Which you may need to do too, to appreciate this scent. A dream fragment of been snared by a dictator is chased away by a forest floor of myrrh resinoid, Siam benzoin, amber, oakmoss, castoreum absolute, cedar notes, vanilla, musk and a pure hearted patchouli. The dry down is blended to perfection so I can’t differentiate these base notes; I just inhale. This forest dances in green dappled light – there are no scary places here.

Berries

An absolute of blackcurrent buds strengthened with a CO2 extract of blackcurrent as well as two blackcurrent bases give this eau de parfum it’s solifruit character. No it doesn’t smell like Ribena though this may be your only real life blackcurrent reference. Nor is it sweet. A man or a woman could wear this anywhere knowing that they are wafting a unique fragrance that is right here and right now.

Enchanted Forest

Evening 5.30pm Susurrating nicely as a skin scent.

Those great lovers of perfume, the founders of fragrantica.com (2007), Elena Knezhevich and Zoran Knezevic commissioned this scent from Bertrand Duchaufour for the launch of their own perfume house called The Vagabond Prince. Perfumistas, this is an entire new Kingdom to explore. Flankers would be welcome so we can discover more in this Enchanted Forest. An Enchanted Vetiver would be nice. So would 50ml. The Vagabond Prince has promised us an encyclopedia of scent. Well, I’d go anywhere with a vagabond Prince, wouldn’t you? Predicting Awards, Accolades, and Acclamations for this original 2013 release. A great start to The Perfume Year.

For a more prismatic stroll you can walk this very same route with Kafkaesque or you could meander alongside Lanier.

Jovoy Paris has 100ml EdP for 140 Euros
Lucky Scent has $5 Samples

Enchanted Forest, Enchanté.
Jordan River

All product photos from The Vagabond Prince other photos authors own

1740 Marquis De Sade by Gérald Ghislain for Histoires de Parfums 2008

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

.

Guest Post by Michael

.

Hello fellow Fragaholics

For a kick off I thought I’d review one of my favourite fragrances and, dare I say it, a modern masterpiece –

1740 Marquis De Sade by Histoires de Parfums 2008

1740 is part of the Library of Scents range of Histoires de Parfums and inspired by the: “Birth year of a Parisian gentleman, named Donatien-Alphonse-François, which posterity remembers as the Marquis de Sade. For this man, whose licentious morals had him imprisoned many times, luxury rhymes with literature. The libertine writer would undoubtedly have enjoyed the audacity of this spiced wooded scent, an invitation to pleasure with its bergamot and Davana Sensualis hints, rounded with patchouli and everlasting flower.”

MarquisDeSade FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords::
Top: Bergamot, Davana Sensualis
Heart: Patchouli, Coriander, Cardamom
Base: Cedar, Birch, Labdanum, Leather, Vanilla, Elemi, Immortelle

This fragrance has wonderful depth and volume. The opening combines bergamot, coriander and the high register notes of cedre – you could not call this “fresh” however as sweetness, booziness, leather and naughty spices form the opening too. Cumin and cardamom play they’re dirty little games while the birch and woody notes support the leather undertones. I can understand why some might call out incense however it seems to be more of a fleeting impression than an actual part of the composition. There is a slight persistence of the softer bergamot elements between the opening and the mid offering a soft tone to the dryer spicy woody aspects.

Orgy, Illustration from Histoire de Juliette by the Marquis de Sade, 1797 art.comPhoto of Marquis de Sade Illustration Stolen art.com

The sweetness is a little syrupy but not cloying despite being reminiscent of maple syrup or molasses. The booziness is not entirely specific but it does give off a somewhat dry sweet liquor impression; something akin to oak aged rum or port pipe aged whisky.

1740 does not change drastically during wearing but the middle phase does see some development. The little there is of fresh notes retreat and the spices are turned down allowing a greater overall balance. The sweetness loses its syrupy edge and moves into a subtle amber accord. The tobacco and leather are still there in dryer incarnations. There is a slightly peppered note but I’m not sure if it’s black pepper or an aspect of the patchouli combining with the cumin and dry woods. Certainly it helps add to the perception of tobacco’s presence. This is where the fragrance is at its best– the warm Indian spices, immortelle , tobacco, dry leather and amber swim and dance on the skin and it smells oh so wonderful and comforting. It’s the olfactory equivalent of a big warm hug from your SO or burying your nose and forehead into the nape of your lover as you cuddle up at night.

LS008465Photo Stolen developmentagezim

The drydown sees a further drying of the composition. A somewhat gritty but non head shop patchouli has been at play all the way through but it seems more prominent now with the immortelle, spices, tobacco and leather still rumbling along, albeit at a lower volume. All in all a masterful unisex masculine; hah!

1740 has moderate projection and excellent longevity.

Further reading KatiePuckrikSmells and Olfactoria’sTravels
LuckyScent has 60ml/$125
SurrenderToChance starts at $5/ml

See you soon,
Michael

Bal a Versailles by Jean Desprez 1962

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 32 Comments

Hey APJ Family,

On this day in 2001 my Mum died, it was a years battle against leukemia and the leukemia won. She was a tough lady and fought hard for the first half of that year and then the fight seemed to go out of her completely. I have so much to thank her for and still randomly talk to her picture as if she is in the room. If ever I have had a conscience it is all due to her reprimands, which I can still hear today when I pee with the door open or don’t put my knife and fork down between mouthfuls or even choose unwisely in  love. I think she would approve of the current one though. Her unconditional love even though I was often an ungrateful, snide or screaming bundle of TNT, and constant vigilance over my future wellbeing has left a stamp upon me and I am so lucky that she chose me when I was a baby.

We were kids and always playing with dolls, cars, lego etc etc. One of our favourite games was dressing up the Barbies and putting Mum’s perfume on them so they smelt like they were really going out. You can see where this is going right? We thought that the little bottle was a toy bottle of perfume that Mum had put on her make up, jewellery and fragrance shelf in the wardrobe. What a cute little bottle, just the right size for the Barbies and that gorgeous technicolour reproduction of a Fragonard painting (Sorry, can’t find the original online and there seems to be much conjecture about the pic! I love drama). How could it not be meant for the Barbies?

I don’t remember Mum being angry or upset with us using it ALL on the Barbies, not like the time I dropped a 16oz bottle of Joy EdC or gave away a bottle of Shalimar to a girlfriend because she liked the gold toned case or a million other deserved rants.

Bal a Versailles by Jean Desprez 1962

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rosemary, orange blossom, mandarin orange, cassia, jasmine, rose, neroli, bergamot, Bulgarian rose, lemon
Heart: Sandalwood, patchouli, lilac, orris root, vetiver, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, leather
Base: Tolu balsam, amber, musk, benzoin, civet, vanilla, cedar, resins

I have had the EdT of this in a modern incarnation for a while and I love to spritz its dirty great feline self on and go about my business but I have often been intrigued by the reasonable priced Extrait and ordered som. Well, it was the Barbies bottle!! OMG!!

This seems to be particularly dark juice and BOY does it take the back of your head off. Right at the start the cat is out of the bag and ready to roar!! All the flowers and citrus are completely overshadowed by a rich, dark purr of animal. After a short time the flowers decide it’s time to shine and fly in above the animal and do their very best in an orgy of florals, fruit and woods. What a fragrance! I love the powdery iris that takes control for a while and the bitter leather side by side with the ylang ylang. Bal a Versailles warm, sweet dry-down is also the welcome reprise of the animal with a lusty growl, till it becomes a purr of amber nothing. It doesn’t seem as intense as my memories of Barbies perfume but maybe my childhood nostrils were more acute, still this is a fragrance that you must try before you earn full perfumista stripes.

Versailles chateauversaillesPhoto Stolen chateauversailles

I get between 6-8 hours of fragrant bliss before I can detect only myself, even in the summer heat of Sydney today I’m pushing 6 hours and still growling. Wear this while at home for your own enjoyment. Leaving the house please take bodyguards.

Further reading MuseInWoodenShoes and ThePerfumePosse
Parfum1 starts at $12.50 for a 50ml Tester. This is where I found my Extrait but it is now sold out.
SurrenderToChance has all sorts starting at $3/ml but I particularly like the Vintage Parfum + EdC combo for $11

marieAntoinette habituallychicPhoto Stolen habituallychic

I’m wearing Bal a Versailles tonight to work. Let’s see if the punters can take the heat! Do you ever wear outrageoius scents just because? What is your fave and where would you really like to wear it that would be less than PC?

Off to splash some on now, see you tomorrow,
Portia xx

Tropic Lime Vanille by Liz Zorn for Siovohle 2012

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Hey Fellow Fumies,

One of the things I love, and hate, about being a fragrance addict is short release fragrances, usually summer releases that stay for one season. Sometimes they are rebottlings, flankers or in very special cases a whole new fragrance that a niche perfumer may only make one batch of.

Tropic Lime Vanille by Liz Zorn for Siovohle 2012

TropicLimeVanille SOIVOHLEPhoto Stolen SOIVOHLE

BaseNotes gives these featured accords:
Top Notes: Lime, linden (lime) blossom, coconut
Middle Notes: Jasmine, apricot, white violet, clean linen, petigrain sur fleur
Base Notes: Bourbon vanilla, benzoin, musk

From Liz Zorn’s blog (edited): A completely new formulation. Tropic Lime Vanille is a fun summery indulgence. It is a refreshing scent that has just enough of the creaminess from the coconut and apricot notes to keep it from being too flimsy, and enough of the citrus to keep it light. My goal was to weave that lime essence as far into the dry-down as possible. I love lime, it is one of my favorite things. so it is really the centerpiece here.

For a refreshing spritz or a memory of summer and holidays abroad there is no better fragrance than Tropic Lime Vanille. The instant burst of lime and coconut is a burst of energy for the enervating long days of summer, yesterday it was 42C (108F) here in Sydney, still 35C (95F) when I came home from work at 10pm!! Seriously hot weather folks and after I’d taken my gear off and had a swim it seemed the only choice.

TLVanille CaFleurBonPhoto Stolen CaFleurBon

After the initial citrus and creamy coconut opening the fruit and flowers settle very nicely and quietly. I become nearly anosmic to the scent but if I return to my office after making a cup of coffee or a chat the smell is glorious. Jin says it leaves a wonderful soft sillage too, or when I’ve been sitting with him for a minute or so he’ll say that I smell lovely. Interesting huh?

The vanilla end starts from early in the heart and slowly takes over Tropic Lime Vanille as the other ingredients burn off leaving and very soft musky vanilla that is only a smidge of scent overlain on my own skin. This takes around 4 hours in summer but a bit longer in the cooler weather. This morning after sleeping in that terrible heat with the AC on till 3am I can still smell something good that isn’t me and it’s 10am. Just  the merest something that is nothing better.

CoconutLime fallForwardPhoto Stolen FallingForward

Recently Liz Zorn has refined the SOIVOHLE range to Absolutes and Demi-Absolutes and you can find her incredibly beautiful and interesting works on the SOIVOHLE site.
There is a limited amount of Tropic Lime Vanille in the Clearance Section of the site 15ml EdT for $15 BE QUICK!!
They have a fantastic selection and the sample program is really good too. Check out my faves: TOBACCO & TULLE, LEATHER KREM, ANUBIS

Which short term fragrances have you loved and maybe do you miss? Have you tried SOIVOHLE’s fragrances? Tell us in the comments, we love a chat.

See you tomorrow,
Till then do something thoughtful for yourself,
Portia xx

Something fun and uplifting to go with Tropic Lime Vanille. Danni Minogue does Put The Lime In The Coconut

Elixir Charnel Oriental Brulant by Sylvaine Delacourte and Christine Nagel for Guerlain 2008

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 17 Comments

Hello Fellow Fumies,

Another split that has taken me a while to get my review sniffer onto, thanks again Ruth K from FFF, and Sydney has turned inexplicably cold just so I could feel really comfortable rocking a fully fledged glorious Oriental in Summer (honestly! Who am I kidding? I wear anything ANYTIME the mood grabs me!). For all the Northern Hemisphere people this will be a super dooper winter WINNER!

Oriental Brulant by Guerlain 2008

OrientalBrulant fragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tangerine
Heart: Almond
Base: Tonka bean, styrax, vanilla

Tangerine? Nope. Nougat? YES!! Maybe some citrus but it is a soft counterpoint to almond essence and vanilla/tonka beans. MMMM This is gourmand but not sweet, sweet. Bakery but the combined smell of a bakery, not the foodstuffs themselves. Maybe the dream of a bakery or a cartoon one. What does happen though is a fabulous fragrance that has enormous scent bubble and sillage while not being a punch in the face. Oriental Brulant is a sheer, seductive vanillic force of nature that makes even me feel pretty and feminine, like the seductress below. Less confrontational than its older sister Shalimar yet still with that enthralling super waft of vanilla cleanness. Like a very fit athletes skin after a shower, but even more delicious. Quite linear but with a little extra warmth and depth through its long dry down, over 6 hours.

Also very girlish, young and accessible scent that would be a super great Sweet 16 or 21st Birthday first fine fragrance, if you can meet the price tag. There is also an underlying sophistication to Oriental Brulant that will appeal to the more mature woman and a nod back to the old days of perfumery while being bang up to date. Now that it’s gone onto my skin it’s surprising how quickly the decant is emptying, I think 4ml of 10 is gone. I think a likeable, loveable, cuddly, delicious, sensual, easy, go-to scent for cool weather but wearable even in Sydney summer.

Underneath the review you’ll find a recipe that will give you a very similar scent, if you like the cake then the fragrance will bowl you over.

Woman layOutSparksPhoto Stolen LayoutSparks

Further reading TheNonBlonde and OlfactoriasTravels
PoshPeasant starts at $6.50/ml
From your Guerlain counter you can grab 2.5oz/75ml for $250, not sure about Australia

Have you tried Oriental Brulant? Any of the Charnal Elixers from Guerlain? What did you think? Would you like to? Why?

Till tomorrow I wish only the good stuff for you,
Portia xx

Carrot, Almond and Orange Cake

CarrotAlmondOrangeCake Taste.com.auStolen from Taste.com.au

  • Melted butter, to grease
  • 1 orange, unpeeled, coarsely chopped, deseeded
  • 150g butter, melted
  • 155g (3/4 cup) caster sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 (about 320g) carrots, peeled, coarsely grated
  • 225g (1 1/2 cups) plain flour
  • 1 x 110g pkt almond meal
  • 3 tsp baking powder
  • 50g (1/2 cup) flaked almonds
  • Double cream, to serve
  1. Preheat oven to 180°C. Brush a round 22cm (base measurement) cake pan with melted butter to lightly grease. Line the base and side with non-stick baking paper.
  2. Place the orange in the bowl of a food processor and process until finely chopped. Add the butter, sugar and eggs and process until well combined. Add the carrot, flour, almond meal and baking powder and process to combine.
  3. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan. Top with flaked almonds. Bake in oven for 1 hour 10 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Set aside for 1 hour to cool. Cut into wedges and serve with cream.