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Aramis by Bernard Chant for Aramis 1966

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Guest Post By Tim
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Aramis by Aramis 1966

(current formulation)

In this day and age where fragrances are sold through the art of embellished story telling, celebrity endorsement and multi million dollar advertising campaigns, I look to the past to see how much times have changed! In an era where themes were simpler, all you had to work with was the truth. We were not so seduced by faux inspirations, someone else’s ideal of femininity and masculinity or that sudden moment you fall in love. There was a different notion of what smelt clean and fresh. Fragrances were made with a vast variety of non synthetic accords,  giving perfume outstanding character and brilliance. Although many fragrance category’s were still to be discovered it seems to me perfume had more to offer its wearer, a list of notes as long as your arm for example,  and the simple promise of what fragrance was designed to do, to make u smell good.

Advertising quote-
“Aramis was created to be the most elegant mens cologne in the world.
Somewhere along the way it became the most provocative.
Aramis, the impact never fades”

If you research Aramis you will see the opinions in black and white! Love and hate, the men who can take it and commonly, the women who can’t . What could be more provocative than this, and I’m sure you already know it’s the fragrances that polarise opinions that are usually the most interesting and the bottles you want in your collection.

1966, Estée Lauder and her cosmetic chemist uncle Joseph Lauder formed brother company ‘Aramis’. Named after the fictional character in Alexandre Dumas  vintage classic novel ‘The Three Musketeers’ they  presented the world with the first line of prestige mens grooming products. This included the company’s debut namesake Aramis by Aramis , a leather chypre created by long time collaborator Bernard Chant (Estee,  Azuree, Cinnabar) Aramis raised the bar higher and went on to become an instant best seller for the brand, and continues to be over 56 years later.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica lists notes –
TOP          Artemisia,  Aldehydes, Bergamot, Gardenia, Clover, Myrrh, Thyme
MIDDLE  Jasmine, Patchouli, Orris, Sage, Cardamom and Sandalwood (PerfumeShrine also adds Cumin and Castoreum)
BASE       Leather, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Amber, Sandalwood, Musk, Coconut

Aramis opens as discreetly as a king hit in a bar room brawl. Do you know that moment when a tradie sparks a blow torch and it ignites into a searing flame, well such is the first hit of Aramis.  It’s challenging to describe perfectly the initial rush as it presents multi- dimensional and busy. My nose reads Body odour over antiseptic pine and parched grass enhanced by  recognisable Lauder style Aldehydes. Any florals have been dialed down to give full impact to the spicy cumin kick start that aims to crash tackle you in the opening. At first it’s rank, dirty and unclean but before u have time to pinpoint what exactly your smelling it blends into one of the most overtly masculine openings of any fragrance I have. The  Artemisia adds bite and bitterness which is wisely balanced out by the Alderhydes.  This creates a manly playoff between unwashed arm pits with subtle hints of soap. It’s animalic  and shockingly beautiful.

Photo Stolen crosswordcorner

You better be in it for the long hall as Aramis has stamina and longevity. The middle reads like a anthology dedicated to my favourite category…. leather!  Chapter one through ten, the heart notes come together to deliver. The credit belongs to the leather, castoreum and musk which seem to meld early on to deliver a ballsy leather accord. Cumin lingers to give it undeniable carnal funk.  A earthy patchouli manages to pull the bergamot a little further as I can detect citrus well into the first 2 hours wearing.  Still spicy and ripe well into half a  days wear Aramis is a obvious and unapologetic. I can only imagine the damage caused  if allowed to fall in the wrong hands. Proceed with caution reader.

FragranceX has Aramis EdT 15ml/$8.40 & 100ml/$51
MyPerfumeSamples starts at $2/ml

Till nest month,
Fragrant Regards,
Tim

Miss Balmain (Vintage) by Germaine Cellier for Balmain 1967

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Hello Glorious Stink Monkeys,

I have to tell you that before I fell down the fragrant wormhole I only knew Pierre Balmain as a fashion designer, not a perfume house. We looked at his work in the history section of the fashion course I studied, can’t remember a thing except his name and that while I was not blown away by his work it was solid and he was clearly talented in a banal, perfectly proportioned, no statement except “I can afford Balmain” kinda way. For a student of fashion he just didn’t push enough boundaries.

Miss Balmain (Vintage) by Balmain 1967

Photo Stolen plunderhere

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, coriander, gardenia, lemon, green notes
Heart: Carnation, narcissus, orris root, jasmine, rose, lily-of-the-valley
Base: Leather, amber, patchouli, coconut, oakmoss, vetiver, tonka bean

I love the squeally, nail varnish and green first few seconds. They are enough to blow the back of your head off and I wonder if the top has slightly gone askew. After about a minute though we settle into a fresh green citrus and herbal extravaganza that would have most non perfumistas in the current fragrance climate running for a shower, My little 4ml sample looks exactly like the photo above but the juice is even darker and I’ve decanted it into an atomiser so I get the effect it would have had in the bottle tears ago.  After 5 minutes I get a gloriously heady white flower, OMG if only this is how Miss Balmain stayed for hours. This is exactly how I want to smell forever, when I get to this point in the fragrance I wish the same thing every time.

Photo Stolen milliedeel

The bouquet floats in winding its way through the spectacular whites as a cool, sharp, earthy floral. This is take no prisoners perfume and at this point there comes an human, bed head, morning breath hint under the flowers giving it guts and growl. So comfortable and so raunchy. I can’t even imagine wearing this to an office nowadays but step back in time and it was considered a fresh and girly version of perfume for the young woman on the go.

After about 3 hours I am all creamy leather, amber and earth with a touch of the cool bouquet rising faintly above on and off into the foreseeable future, not really disappearing from my skin entirely until my shower next morning.

Photo Stolen liveauctioneers

I have not yet tried a current incarnation of Miss Balmain to do a comparison test but will come back and add my thoughts when and if I do. There are a couple of ml left in my atomiser in case.

For further reading go see PerfumeShrine and TheNonBlonde

FragranceShop has 100ml $36
ThePerfumedCourt has Vintage Miss Balmain Parfum $12/ml

For some reason this was not taken as a serious contender by the other blogs I read. I don’t know why, it has everything a Vintage perfume lover could ever ask for, classified as a floral chypre with anamalic undertones it really is magic. I am thinking I’d like to try the current Miss Balmain formulation but no sample sites have it. I can wait, but at $36 probably not for too long.

Do you have a vintage fave that few people talk about or reviewers have overlooked. Tell me in the comments, I love reading about new stuff. Just as an added extra I have given you the Balmain latest runway effort which is SO 1980’s that I fair fainted. AWESOME.
Till tomorrow, be good to yourselves,
Portia xx

Balmain | Spring Summer 2013 Full Fashion Show

Australian Perfumers Pack GIVEAWAY WINNER

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Hey Everyone,

We had a lovely, if small, group of responses to this weeks challenge. All the people that did enter into the spirit of the competition did it with enthusiasm and a great sense of fun. I Thank You All. Some made me laugh hot soup into my nose. So what did you have to do and what could you win?

Your mission, had you chosen to accept it, was to give the OK GO guys in the Here It Goes Again video fragrances that you think would suit them.

Painted Desert Photo Stolen AustralianTraveller

THE PRIZE: A 15ml mixed set of Australian Artisan Perfumers, uber niche stuff from down under. Do yourselves a favour and go check their sites by clicking on their names below.

Bud Parfums– 2ml Jezabel and 2ml Gamekeeper (Read APJ Gamekeeper Review and APJ Jezebel Review)
Emerald Vintners Parfums (EVP)– 2ml Baume (Read APJ Baume Review)
One Seed– 4ml Sweet Water (Read PerfumePosse Sweet Water Review)
Perfume & Skincare Company– 5ml Fig & Olive (Read APJ Fig & Olive Review)
P&H Anywhere In The World

Alice Springs Photo Stolen NothingLikeAustralia

THE RULES: Open to anyone from anywhere in the world but you must be a follower of AustralianPerfumeJunkies and yes you could start following to be included. Tweeting earned you an extra point (@OaPerfumeJunkie https://australianperfumejunkies.com/ are having a SUPER SIZED GIVEAWAY!!) Entries closed Saturday night 17 November 2012 at 10pm EADST. All names that fulfilled requirements were put on papers, folded and TSO Jin chose one. The winner has till Wednesday 21 November 9pm AEDST to get in touch with details or I will give the prize to someone else. All measurements are approximate.

And the

Photo Stolen sistersavealot

Lanier

YAY! Congratulations! Email, DM Tweet or Message on Facebook your address details please buddy and I’ll send it off this week.

See you later today for our regular post.
Loads of love,
Portia xx

Here is an ad for Australia’s most famous rum. It’s fun.

Pohadka by Vincent Micotti for Ys-Uzac 2011 LIVE Video Sniff

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Hello all you gorgeous Frag Hags,

Today Robert “Radium” Maxwell and I are bringing you the magic of an AustralianPerfumeJunkies LIVE Video Sniff. You need to be aware that while we are complete fragrance enthusiasts, we are in no way creditable live reviewers. Take this video for example:
We tell you that Ys-Uzac is a Japanese brand when in fact it is a Swiss brand, we talk about ambergris when in fact there is none but I’m bang on with the salty, herbal, floral opening. YAY! It doesn’t matter, we are here to entertain you with our sparkling wit and repartee, failing that we fall back on sex and bum jokes. What is important though is that we have a great time, some of the stiuff we say is completely correct and we are hoping you will come watch for the fun and silliness of an APJ Live Video Sniff.

Pohadka by Ys-Uzac 2011

Photo Stolen fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Shiso (awkward pepperish mint)
Heart: Jasmine, French labdanum, artemesia, grass
Base: Immortelle, tobacco, sage, liatris, vanilla

Photo Stolen Ys-Uzac

You too can sample from Ys-Uzac Sample Page
As always bi fat juicy Thank Yous go out to my BFF Kath who videos and edits, TSO Jin who makes it blog ready and Robert “Radium” Maxwell, who just quietly is a fricken SPUNK!!

Here it is, hope you love it!
See you tomorrow.
Portia xx

Blenheim Bouquet Bath Oil by Penhaligon’s 1902

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Hello APJ Family,

For years every day when I go to work  there is a ritual I follow and it has included as its first step a bath. Super hot with no cold water run into it and till recently just a haphazard dash of Radox bath salts because one day not long ago while looking on eBay for vintage Patou 1000 I stumbled across someone selling what looked like a deceased estate fragrance collection with Vintage EdT bottles of 1000 and Joy, Shalimar, Grand Amour and No 5. Also a bunch of Penhaligon’s Bath Oils and most of them had only a bit left but there was a brand new, unopened 500ml bottle and it was calling my name.

Blenheim Bouquet Bath Oil by Penhaligon’s 1902

I’ve never used Bath Oils before but the price was so ridiculously cheap that I figured even if I didn’t like it there would be someone in my orbit that would be thrilled.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lavender, amalfi lemon, lime
Heart: None
Base: Musk, pine, black pepper.

So the someone in my orbit who is thrilled is me. Penhaligon’s Bath Oil is absolutely gorgeous, the fragrance is soothing and calming while I’m abluting and my skin has never felt softer. I find the Bath Oil creates a wonderful fragrance-holding dewy moisture that my skin has never had before but there is no interference with my fragrance scents except up to double the lifespan on some of my shorter staying ones. That is a good thing.

Photo Stolen Jarrold

If you are stuck for what to buy someone who seems to have everything, and they have a bath, a Penhaligon’s Bath Oil could be the answer. I use my bath time as a moment to forget the world’s needs and let all life’s stresses go. It’s almost zen. Also a great time to have uninterrupted thinking time when a problem seems unsolvable. recently i saw a doco on Tom Ford and he too likes to bathe for think time, spiritual cleansing and refreshment. Admittedly he has up to 6 per day and I only have the one. Oh yeah, and he’s a genius.

AYearOfPerfume and TheChapBlog were 2 new blogs I found while researching Blenheim Bouquet.

Christmas and other great religious and secular gift giving moments are very close so why don’t you have a look at:
Penhaligon’s has 200ml Bath Oil in Blenheim Bouquet £39.00
Parfum1 has 200ml Bath Oil in Blenheim Bouquet $85

There are so many people that I am completely stumped for presents for this year. I think I will order a couple more Penhaligon’s Bath Oils. Even if they never go out as gifts I’ll have them for myself. Good thinking 99!
What are you fragrant gifts that you are already buying for the celebratory period? Have you tried the Penhaligon’s Bath Oils? Have you tried Blenheim Bouquet? Did you like them?
Till we see you tomorrow, I hope you find a moment to shine.
Portia xx

Perfuming A Video and GIVEAWAY

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Hey Hey Stink Junkies,

I have this great blog girlfriend in the USA who writes a blog called Sweet Mother about her amusing and often amazing life as a lesbian comedienne in love. She offers a raw and funny, sometimes inspirational and usually thought provoking blog almost every day. The other day she added this video that you may have seen; OK Go- Here It Goes Again. A rocking little tune that will definitely make your feet tap, head nod etc but the guys in the video and the video itself are hilarious and I thought we could fragrance them for fun.

Photo Stolen visualise

Pink Pants Guy: To my mind this guy is fearless and unrestrained (come on, Pink Skinny Jeans) and I think he’s probably pretty boundary pushing so I am giving him a choice between Annick Goutal Sables and Opium by YSL, both loud and fearless, and LOUD.
Purple Vest Guy: Looks a little more restrained and maybe even a bit old fashioned so I am giving him Christian Dior’s Eau Sauvage but he’s a musician so the Fraicher Cuir flanker that I think is endearing because it is a soft, leathery and sexy masculine frag but so old fashioned.
Black Blazer Guy: This guy is the most regularly dressed, like he put his foot down saying, “No stupid, weirdo, freaky crap clothes for me thanks.” I’m thinking conservative but a rare memory find like Caron’s Royal Bain de Caron.
Pink Shirt, Check Vest Guy: This guy is a sex mad lothario, I don’t know why I think it but there you have it. He is probably sporting Kouros by YSL or Givenchy Gentlemen or maybe Rocobar by Hermes. Maybe this is the perfumista of the crew and he is wearing an Olympic Orchid or Aftelier?

Photo stolen LucyDavey

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to give these guys fragrances that you think would suit them. Do so in the comments below. If one of you tickles me enough I may just have to send you a present. What about a 15ml mixed set of Australian artisan perfumers, uber niche stuff from down under. Do yourselves a favour and go check their sites by clicking on their names below.

Bud Parfums– 2ml Jezabel and 2ml Gamekeeper (Read APJ Gamekeeper Review and APJ Jezebel Review)
Emerald Vintners Parfums (EVP)– 2ml Baume (Read APJ Baume Review)
One Seed– 4ml Sweet Water (Read PerfumePosse Sweet Water Review)
Perfume & Skincare Company– 5ml Fig & Olive (Read APJ Fig & Olive Review)
P&H Anywhere In The World

THE RULES: Open to anyone from anywhere in the world but you must be a follower of AustralianPerfumeJunkies and yes you can start following to be included, please tell me how you follow so I can check eMail, RSS, WordPress etc. Tweeting will earn you an extra point (@OaPerfumeJunkie https://australianperfumejunkies.com/ are having a SUPER SIZED GIVEAWAY!!) Entries close Saturday night 17 November 2012 at 10pm EADST. All names that fulfill requirements will be put on papers, folded and TSO Jin will choose one. The winner will be announced Sunday in a special post and will have till Wednesday 21 November 9pm AEDST to get in touch with details or I will give the prize to someone else. All measurements are approximate.

BTW Margeaux and I are LIVE Video Sniffing at the Perfume Posse today so go see the MADNESS!

So GO TO IT. Enjoy the video too.
Till tomorrow we wish you Health, Wealth and Happiness. If things are crazy or crap remember that we’ll all be dead in 100 years and most of this won’t matter,
Portia xxx

Silences by Gerard Goupy and Jean-Claude Niel for Jacomo 1978

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 21 Comments

Hi Ho Fellow Funies,

My mate Dionne from BOTOblog sent me a frag. care package recently. I have often wondered about a fragrance that many bloggers name as their go to green and when offered a sample I jumped at the chance.

Silences by Jacomo 1978

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange blossom, galbanum, bergamot, lemon, green notes, cassia
Heart: Iris, jasmine, narcissus, hyacinth, rose, lily-of-the-valley
Base: Vetiver, musk, sandalwood, oakmoss, cedar, ambrette (musk mallow).

WOW! So this is nothing like the notes had me expecting, I had something deeply seductive in my mind but here I get a bitter sweet greenness, a bell pepper-ish green where I can’t find the berries or orange blossom. Once the flowers float in I find the fragrance loses about 2/3 of its power and sits very prettily, powdery and still a little green. A cool, waxy bouquet that makes CHANEL 19 look like an eager gauche slapper it is so restrained.

The name is completely indicative of the fragrance, it’s like I have been allowed a moment to breathe the cool air of memory, the spaces in between the notes and the heartbeats between coming and gone. I read mainly earthy, slightly salty vetiver towards the 3 hour point, it is soft and the fragrance still scintillates on my skin with florals floating over and woodsy musks just out of smellovision holding the whole fragrance up. For some reason I had in my head a sister to Nikki de Saint Phalle that other green goddess that I love but it is way more CHANEL 19 but softer, easier to wear, more floral and sweet, not nearly as up front about its coolness. Though my Chanel 19 is a vintage parfum and I am presuming the Silences is more modern so apples and oranges.

Photo Stolen guerlain.pl

It’s now the morning after wearing Silences for the 3rd time and I am still fragrant. I think the vetiver, hyacinth and galbanum are still pumping their song, it is an awkward salty green that is a bit naughty but that could just be me. CHANEL 19 has completely left my skin though and it was sprayed nearly an hour after for comparison.

What a marvelous warm rainy weather pick this has been, it fits perfectly with time and place and at these ridiculous prices is going on the must have list. Thanks Dionne for an affordable lemming. XXXOX

Photo Stolen desertsojourn

For more reviews see TheNonBlonde and PerfumeShrine

FragranceShop has 100ml PdT for $25
SurrenderToChance starts at $3/ml

Do you ever crave the clear green spaces of silence, or Silences? Is there another green that floats your boat?

Hope to see you happy and well tomorrow, till then take a moment to be silent.
Portia xx

Silence — Sarah McLachlan

Lavender Palm by Yann Vasnier for Tom Ford 2011

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

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Guest Post by EmmaKate

Hello hello Fumies,

It is Emma Kate here again with my monthly review. This month, with thanks to Portia Turbo, I will be reviewing Tom Ford’s Lavender Palm.

Lavender Palm by Tom Ford 2011

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

The notes as listed on Fragrantica
Top notes: lavender, lemon, bergamot and clary sage
Middle notes: lemon blossom, pink nerium oleander
Base notes: vetiver, oak moss and olibanum, also known as frankincense

Barack Obama Photo Stolen Squidoo

This fragrance opens with a soft lavender, and builds quickly to this romantic full bodied floral. There is a citrus burst that pops through and slowly melds with the lavender to make this Lavender Palm sing.
A warm silky, slightly smokey sense makes me think of a cashmere scarf, the perfect weight for that in-between weather.
This fragrance is listed as unisex and I would have to agree, if anything this is more of a masculine scent to me. It reminds me of a freshly shaven man, in his Hugo Boss suit, freshly pressed white cotton shirt and a purple tie about to walk out the door for, or into, a big meeting. He is on top of his game.

Photo Stolen from gardenofeaden

In terms of wearability this fragrance lasted very well on my skin, which says something as I am a scent drinker! Around the eight hour mark, though I have read reviews of others saying it has lasted in excess of 12 hours.

Portia got my sample at David Jones, Market St, Sydney from Joel the world’s most helpful and desirable Tom Ford SA, most of the Tom Ford SA’s will happily make you a 2ml sample vial
SurrenderToChance also has Lavender Palm $6/1ml

Overall this is a stunning fragrance, one that I would give to a man in my life who needed a power boost 🙂 Below is a very interesting look into Tom Ford the creative.
Happy Smelling!
EKxx

Baiser Vole EdP by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier 2011 Perfume Review

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 30 Comments

Hiya Happy Huffers,

I have often liked or loved the Cartier fragrances. Declaration, Must De Cartier and a couple of the Hours Series have previously captured my attention. Recently I reviewed a lily fragrance and a commenter (maybe Undina or Dionne?) asked if I had tried the Cartier lily. In truth I had not so I went and ordered in my next sample haul from MyPerfumeSamples and it came in last week.

Baiser Vole EdP by Cartier 2011

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pistils of the lily, citrus
Heart: Lily petals
Base: Green leaves of lily (musk not noted)

Fresh, green, bright, airy floral opening with a citric tang Baiser Vole EdP opens surprisingly powerfully but feminine, there is a waxy cellophane wrapping that is so like a lily that it’s uncanny. Not the huge funereal Casablance lily but maybe the Christmas Trumpet or a smaller Asiatic lily. Even though this is clearly aimed at a feminine market a man could wear Baiser Vole a enjoy the freshness and sparkle, a mans chemistry takes some of the milkiness away and adds something that I can’t put my finger on.

Though light, I am getting good sillage and scent bubble in the first couple of hours. Not a clean scent as such but it does evoke the cleanliness of fresh air and as Mathilde Laurent says in the video below, like smelling a huge vase of lilies; from buying, cutting stems, scorching, arranging and enjoying. It’s all here and lovely without being intrusive, after the initial hour or two wearable in all situations. If you were to spritz at home in the morning by the time you were at work, even in the most fragrance phobic of offices and close quarters, you would be at acceptable levels of fragrant. It’s like having a very good, rich and expensive lotion on that maintains its scent for about 4-5 hours before it becomes a whisper quiet, musky green shadow on top of your own bodies natural fragrance that stays way longer than you’d expect, up to 12 hours if you have originally spritzed with abandon.

This 5ml decant has almost disappeared in the last few days as I’ve written this review so I bought a bottle. What a super great summer, spring and autumn scent and on those cold days in winter it will bring back the soft, warm evenings of other months. Though its advertising has it as a languid evening love story I think Baiser Vole is much less dressed up than that, perfect with weekend casuals, work suit or gown.

Photo stolen Jai’s

For further reading NowSmellThis and GrainDeMusc

FragranceX had the best price I could find $60/100ml Tester
MyPerfumeSamples starts at $2/ml or $7/5ml

Do you have a favourite lily fragrance. I really love them but am only new to the genre, please leave me some that you like in the comments, and why you like them.

Till tomorrow we wish only your good dreams come true.
Loads of love,
Portia xx

Mathilde Laurent explains her vision when creating Baiser Vole

The Baiser Vole Mini Movie

Les Deserts D’Orient by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2012 LIVE Video Sniff

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

YIPEE! Welcome back,

EmmaKate and I are back in front of the camera proving to one and all that we love perfume but know only the outer edges of anything important relating to it. This time we put the Guerlain Les Deserts D’Orient under our microscope.

Photo Stolen aromamore

Yes, we know that bois means wood, now! Ha Ha Ha what a pair of dunderheads. Doesn’t matter. Enjoy this for what it is. Two mates having a sniff after work and a couple of bevvies, you are supposed to feel like you’re sitting at the table with us having a crisp, dry white/scotch/coffee/sparkling mineral water and we are all having a first go together. If it was perfect it wouldn’t be so much fun.

As always special thanks need to go out to Kath for filming and editing, EmmaKate for being a good sport and Jin for making it blog ready. Thanks gang!!

Gerome, The Harem Bath Stolen melbourneblogger

Here is a short featured accords list for each from 1000Flowers:
Rose Nacrée du Désert: Ispahan rose, saffron, patchouli, oudh, benzoin.
Songe d’un Bois d’été: cedar, jasmine, saffron, cardamom, leather, laurel leaf, oudh, myrrh, patchouli, leather.
Encens Mythique d’Orient: frankincense, musk, neroli, moss, saffron, Ispahan rose, amber

For further reading see 1000Flowers and OlfactoriasTravels

SurrenderToChance has a pack of all 3 at $13/.5ml of each

Whatever you do between now and tomorrow when you come back, make sure you take the time to do something YOU love. Even though you may be shit at it, like we are at doing perfume videos sometimes.
Portia xx