Twilight by Laurent Le Guernec and Clement Gavarry for Sarah Jessica Parker 2009

Hey Fellow Fumies,

Ever get taken by surprise? Do you ever think you have a handle on perfume, pretty much know what you are going to smell when you read the notes, are already looking down your perfumista nose at a fragrance because you have pre judged it before spritzing? Well then you already know this story. I was out with TSO Jin just trolling the mall and we needed to go to TARGET of all places and OMFG they now have a PERFUME SECTION!! The SA Charlotte was excellent and had been dutifully sniffing her way through most of the stock. New perfumista alert!! Charlotte was loving it sick.

Photo Stolen trixiliniboutique

They have quite a range including some DIOR, GUCCI, D&G and YSL at prices about $20-$40 cheaper than the Department Store directly above them. Celebuscents are their main stock in trade though so we were trying some to see what is going on in the world of celebrity fragrance. OH GODS IN HEAVEN!! What have we done to deserve some of this liquid shit? Kate Moss is cool and I love that she is portrayed as this completely gorgeous drug pig and life wreck but have you smelt what she is selling as perfume? Feck Me Dead! There were some good surprises though. Well not HOLY GRAIL GOOD but not travesties either.

Dita Von Teeze is a lovely green spicy cheap and cheerful in a super great flaccon. I already own it. Lasting power is poor on me but at this price respritz.
Beyonce has one that hits my amber and musk bone nicely but has a slight chemical incident waft after a while.
Halle Berry has about 6 perfumes now, I love Halle (which Twilight is a little bit like) and its body lotion and think I might like Purple Orchid.

Photo Stolen biz.ratebe

Fragrantica gives these acccords:
Top: Bergamot, galbanum, mandarin, pink pepper
Heart: Peony, jasmine
Base: Amber, sandalwood, incense, musk

I had seen this matching 3 pack from SJP and been wondering about it. The noses, Laurent Le Guernec and Clement Gavarry, who created this also did SJP Lovely together and are responsible for quite a bit of my fragrance library separately. WOW! I was expecting a spiky green sizzling pepper citrus blast to open but it is a warm resinous amber and incense laden floral. There was so little sign of the pepper and citrus, just a wafting whisper keeping the rest afloat and interesting. It has good sillage, nice scent bubble, is distinctive, takes a journey, lasts a while and is generally good. Yes, you can tell its a mass produced fragrance, there are no artisanal touches or big fragrance surprises once you get over the shock of it being a very decent celebuscent and perfect for cool Autumn/Spring afternoons and nights. Today Twilight, and the other 2 in the set, was reduced to $20 for 75ml. So I bought the damn thing and I’m glad I did. I’ve even included the ad below for your enjoyment.

CheapSmells has Sarah Jessica Parkers Twilight $14/75ml

Moral: Don’t judge a book by its cover.
Funny how you have to keep being reminded of life’s most obvious lessons.
Wishing you the best of everything till we see you tomorrow.
Portia xx

Bottega Veneta EdP by Michel Almairac 2011

Hey Hey all you Deliciously Fragrant Wafters.

I have reviewed Bottega Veneta in short before but I have come back to it again because it has gone into Department Stores here in Australia and I think it a juice worthy of your particular attention. For a wearable, go anywhere, quietly and self servingly hyper-luxe fragrance that will never skunk but always give you private pleasure, and those intimates who come extremely close, there isn’t a better choice on the market. My opinion and clearly not humble: This is the poo people, take a BIG whiff.

Bottega Veneta EdP 2011

Picture Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Italian bergamot, Brazilian pink pepper
Heart: Indian Sambac jasmine
Base: Oak moss, patchouli and Indian patchouli

I think that Fragrantica has missed some notes, and yes I understand what featured means, but I get leather. Inside a brand new handbag, jacket of suitcase you will find the basic scent of Bottega Veneta EdP by Michel Almairac, who is responsible for some of my perfume library (Casmir, Gucci Rush, Joop Homme: ALL blockbusters). I smell a sweet (not sugar), fruity (but not the crap celebuscent fruit) leather that is quietly luxurious and lasts for the whole day. It gets more interesting and dryer as the day progresses, there is also a fresh salty sea water tang that parades through at intervals. I can’t tell you enough that this is an incredibly wearable scent that is also, to me, an artistic triumph in a world where that is happening less and less in the mainstream.

Perfect for socialising and for all but the most severely fragrance free workplaces. Date night, boozy lunch, picnic, yachting, horse track or at home snuggled up in front of the TV with a big cuppa/scotch/wine/water. Jeans, dress, after gym shower, ballgown, track suit or office suit; Bottega Veneta EdP will take you there and back.

The bottle is hefty and fits beautifully in my hand and I feel like a glamourpuss when I apply in the store. They also do Parfum in Murano glass bottles and though it’s expensive, there are EdT’s that cost more and come in molded glass. They also do a slightly, but not outrageously, expensive body care range which I think is also delectable. I am SORELY tempted to take the houskeeping money for a fortnight and just splurge but will wait. It’s hovering near the top of my list and I am trying to squirrel some money away but I am a notorious fritterer. I have an 8ml ThePerfumedCourt decant that is not finished, afterwards I will think seriously about the Parfum.

Photo Stolen BottegaVeneta

KatiePukrick has a great review as does Olfactoria’sTravels
Bottega Veneta is available at any of their stores and now Department Stores
eGlobalBeauty has 75ml for $142 including shipping!

Thank you all for sauntering through my fragrant thoughts. Below is the Bottega Veneta newest mini movie about their Initial Program. Enjoy!!
Till tomorrow we wish you all good health, enough wealth and at least a moment of joy.
Portia xxx

Bottega Veneta Initials Aug 2012

Private Blend Arabian Wood by Tom Ford 2009

Hey Hey APJ Family,

Joel, the lovely SA at the Tom Ford counter in DJ’s Sydney City, was very generous last time I was in. The least I can do in return is wear the samples that I scored and it’s no hardship to do so. I have long admired Tom Ford and his amazing style and savvy, he makes it seem effortless butI’m under no illusions, the man is beautiful, clever, gifted, driven and lucky. I think he must have sold his soul, and that it was a particularly good one because the returns on his sale/investment are awesome.

Tom Ford Photo stolen acorn-mg

I had very specific expectations of Arabian Wood, I purposely didn’t read notes or other blogs till my second wear and I agree with Victoria of EauMG that Arabian Wood is a misleading name for this fragrance. This is an extremely good example of a modern chypre, a style mainly dead due to IFRA regulations about oak moss: the wailing and gnashing of teeth can still be heard around the world. Private Blend Arabian Wood by Tom Ford should be on your “Must Try List” because in this day & age I am surprised at how well he has sculpted a Next Generation Chypre, reminiscent of some of the greatest but so modern and wearable.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Lavender, bergamot, galbanum, Bulgarian rose, May rose, rose absolute, freesia, orange blossom, ylang ylang, jasmine, gardenia, honey, orris, patchouli, cedar, oak moss, sandalwood, tonka bean and amber.

I really enjoy the opening rush of Private Blend Arabian Wood by Tom Ford, I love its old school mans cologne action made exquisite. Lavender, rose and sexy jasmine/gardenia/orange blossom/ylang ylang bouquet fight through the masculinity and take us to a decidedly, historically feminine place that is dead sexy on a guy and epic on a woman. As the bouquet pumps its glorious sexy beat in flows the honey and roses to wind sinuously around and through giving a sparkle here and a golden glow there, the rose is spicy, almost tea-ish and there is greenery too, the bitter tang of a torn leaf. I am lost for minutes at a time just huffing away at myself, big long deep breath in and near moans of ecstasy out. This honeyed floral symphony lasts for ages and soon we see the woody resins, vanilla and amber make their way out from under the rest of the team and taking their turn to shine, they don’t completely take over for hours though, there is loads of interesting by play before the flowers give up their struggle for supremacy and softly slide into the background behind the smooth, warm and cuddly base that seems to be here to stay forever.

Photo Stolen cyprus-paradise

Private Blend Arabian Wood by Tom Ford is not exactly a powerhouse fragrance but it is way too strong for a close work office and I would think twice before wearing it to a dinner because, make no mistake, you will be fragrant. Excellent sillage and a decent scent bubble will turn heads.

NowSmellThis does a great review too.
ThePerfumedCourt has Private Blend Arabian Wood by Tom Ford samples 1ml/$7.24

My day has been pretty good, I hope yours has too, and that it is great till we see you tomorrow.
If you want more Portia today I am Guest Posting on Perfume Posse, do pop over and have a squiz, leave me a comment so I know you’ve been.
Thanks for being part of out APJ family, we are really grateful.
Love,
Portia xx

Here is a little video present. It’s a minute long, not music, religious or a joke. Something we should always keep top of mind though.

Perle de Mousse by Bertrand Duchafour for Ann Gerard 2012

.

Gabriella

.

Ann Gerard

Perle de Mousse

Hello APJ friends! Hoping you’ve all had a wonderfully fragrant time over the past month and that you enjoy today’s post.

It’s a very warm spring day. Sitting under an expanse of huge oak trees you feel the gentlest caress of a breeze. The air is rich with the smell of greenery: the lush grass, the ivy curling its way around the tree trunks, the fresh stemminess of white flowers. You feel the warmth of the dappled sunlight on your face, relish in the way it washes over you with its honeyed rays.Your significant other has surprised you with an impromptu picnic: it’s a treat following your decision to take a half day from work. It seems like you’ve spent years chained to your desk staring at a computer screen. You’re loving your newfound languidness. Sipping your champagne, you delight as its fizziness tickles your nose, quenches your throat. You take a deep breathful of mossy greenness.

Photo Stolen cntraveller.

Gently, you arch your back, loosen your hair from its tight chignon, smooth your crisp white shirt and remove your heels, delighting in the sensation of tingly grass blades on your soles. You lie back on the soft cotton rug, reach over to lay your head on your man’s shoulder. His shirt gently caresses your face, you smell the gentlest whiff of his citrus cologne. Your eyes close and you drift towards sleep in the soft yellow light.

Very few perfumes conjure up a complete story in my mind on first sniff, but Perle de Mousse is one of them.

Ann Gerard Photo Stolen elsa-vanier

The fragrance is a green chypre, composed by Bertrand Duchafour for Parisian jeweller, Ann Gerard. It is part of a trio of scents, the others being Ciel d’Opale, a linden-based fragrance and Cuir de Nacre, a leather perfume originally sold in a limited edition under the name Pleine Lune.

Perle de Mousse features notes of: aldehydes, pink pepper, bergamot, green mandarin, galbanum resin, ivy, lily of the valley, hawthorn, Bulgarian rose, clove, jasmine, gardenia, lentiscus absolute, ambergris, musk and a hint of vanilla.


Photo stolen from http://www.anngerard.com/
The perfume opens with a sharp burst of aldehydes and a sumptuous accord of galbanum and ivy: rich, verdant and dense. After this initial green spark, the composition quietens down quite rapidly and becomes linear in feel. The mandarin note is interspersed with lily of the valley and the other white florals, with no one note standing out.

.

Perle de Mousse is an extremely soft and delicate chypre that gives a cursory nod to the Dior greats by Edmond Roudnitska: Diorella, Eau Sauvage and Diorissimo whilst still being completely its own scent. Anyone looking for a powerful tenacious green chypre or a typical Duchafour composition won’t find it here. Perle de Mousse is extremely gentle, with average sillage and longevity. Despite its ethereality, it is still a stunningly beautiful fragrance and a must try for any green or chypre fans.

.

SurrenderToChance has the range starting at $4/ml
LuckyScent has a Discovery Collection 3 x 9ml in a coffret $65 or 60ml/$165
With much love till next time,
M x

Aqua Allegoria Tiaré Mimosa EdT by Guerlain 2009

Hey Hey Saturday Perfumistas,

I wore Aqua Allegoria Tiaré Mimosa by Guerlain tonight to the movies and was able to really enjoy its beautiful life story which is not a huge roller coaster of dips, swoops and dives but rather a walk through tropical resort gardens and beach at sunset when the tropical night bloomers just start pumping their olfactory song. What a perfect scent for spray and go autumn/spring wear. Fragrant but not intrusive, every social situation should be cool and for a job that is not very close quarters or fragrance phobic you would be fine too. A light, bright, vivacious floral scent that could go seamlessly from the picnic to a dinner, for supper and then a red hot raunchy booty call. Maybe a respritz between the dinner and supper just for general upkeep.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives the featured accords all in one line:
Tiare flower, mimosa blossom, lemon zest, pink pepper, musk, vanilla

That lovely lemon zest is bright and fanciful, makes me want a very short party frock and a Manhattan. In come the flowers and pepper! This is not the celebuscent Pink Pepper nightmare though, very classy and elegant with its surrounding white and yellow flowers, quite like the frangipanis in the picture, even though they are not listed. Sometimes when I smell myself wearing Tiaré Mimosa I get a big thrill of how gorgeous I smell. I’m not sure what else I’m getting but there is a green earthiness that is unexplained by the notes. I even get a hint of that yummy sea salt and coconut feel that I adore, even though it doesn’t really smell like either of them are here. By the time we got home from the movies it was a soft floral vanilla, very pretty with irregular huffs of white flower indoles still that mixed perfectly with the musks. The we had some dinner and watched a bit of telly, After all that, somewhere around 6 hours, I had lost the fragrance.

FragranceNet has Aqua Allegoria Tiaré Mimosa by Guerlain 125ml/$47
PerfumeShrine does a wonderful overview of the whole Aqua Allegoria line and PerfumePosse look at Tiaré Mimosa particularly.
.

It’s Saturday so I figured we should all take a 4 minute chill pill. Here is a new to me Aussie girl who has a really lovely song and interesting voice. The video is great for putting your brain in neutral for 5 minutes. Sometimes the 5 minutes you take to let go means you can hold on for another day. Please enjoy the video and your weekend.

What are you or will you be wafting this weekend, and have you tried the Aqua Allegorias? Please tell me in the comments below, I love to hear from you all.
Portia xx

NEW AUSSIE SONGSTRESS

Lisa Mitchell – Spiritus

LYRICS:
Heart is lost
Like a lost little one
I can’t stop
Thinking there’s something I forgot…
Young one,
there’s a big sun,
and my love
shines on!

Hopelessness
well it’s over now
Spiritus
you’re still with me somehow

Young one,
there’s a big sun,
and my love
shines on

Santal Majuscule by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2012

Hiya Lovelies.

I have been over at FacebookFragranceFriends and was lucky enough to be involved in a split for Santal Majuscule created by Christopher Sheldrake and Serge Lutens and released recently. Such a great way to get a good sized sample, thanks Andrea!! I don’t know if you have read much about it or even smelled it but it has been eagerly awaited as a sister to the 2 other Lutens Sandalwood offerings Santal Blanc (sweet) and Santal de Mysore (smoke) but this one is quite a different take.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords: Sandalwood (That’s it? R U FECKING JOKING!!!!)

I smell honey and spice, flowers that could be rose, wood, butter, smoke, sweet whipped cream on warm cinnamon honey cakes. This is not quite as gourmand as all that sounds and has some definite musky tendencies as it wears into the 2nd hour that sing alongside the woods beautifully but not intrusively. There is also a slightly sharp greenness lurking that raises its head and gives you a saucy wink every so often, as if they have tried to capture the sandalwood from bud to burning and every moment in between. I find this an infinitely more varied ride than expected and am enjoying the flow. The longer it wears the more buttery it becomes, really woody and animal fatty. So nice. I’m at around 4 hours now and Santal Majuscule is starting to lose its strength and go quieter on my skin, not a bad run so far. I get about 6 hours till it is really a skin scent that stays around till morning.

Sandalwood Cross Section Photo Stolen austoils

I have just knocked over my 10ml split and broken the glass atomiser, the place smells GORGEOUS! Looks like the office will be off limits for fragrance testing till next Friday 2015. Interesting that even though 10ml just went AWOL I am not overwhelmed by the fragrance, yes I can smell it and the room when you leave and re enter is awash in fragrance but it’s lovely and luxe and exquisite, not Pow! WhaM! Bam! at all. There is a sheerness to Santal Majascule that is fully fragrant but also full of spaces and air so that you can breathe, deep but not dense. Well there has been a good development come out of all this, I am to have a full bottle. It has been agreed. YAY!!! Went to Escentual and grabbed it, ON ITS WAY. HOORAY!!

Photo Stolen en.wikipedias

TheAlembicatedGenie, BoisDeJasmin and Patty at ThePerfumePosse all review it much better than me.
Escentual has 50ml for around £80 ($125) delivered worldwide!

Have you tried any of the Lutens sandalwood trio? How do you rate them? Is there another sandalwood that I simply MUST try? Leave me a note in the comments, I love to read your ideas too. Even if you just want to say HI, do it. I’ll be thrilled,
Have an excellent day till we see you tomorrow,
Portia xx

What To Wear Friday Night? Estee Lauder? Hermes?

Hello Perfumed People,

FRIDAY, FRIDAY!!! FRIIIIIDAYYY! That day when the 9-5 crew finish the working week and get ready to let it all hang out. What’s a good Friday drinks fragrance? Do you have something that says; the week is over, hair down, brain in neutral, collar undone? I don’t really have a Friday night fragrance because my week is structured so differently to that but TSO Jin and I try to keep Friday for Date Night. I know, how daggy is that? But if we don’t schedule it then chances are we won’t see each other, and that would be crap because he is a great guy and makes me laugh till there are tears running down my face and I can’t breathe deeply anymore because my tummy hurts. Not perfect, mind you, he is a fecking nightmare in some respects but the good definitely outweighs the bad.

Photo Stolen allposters

So I am going to quickly write about 2 frags that I think are terrific Friday Nighters. 2 never fail gorgeous fragrant hooks to reel them in…

Brasil Dreams by Estee Lauder: I know, you are all laughing at me, but I don’t care. I love this little fireball of a fragrance. Every time I even think of spritzing myself with Brasil Dreams I get a big goofy smile on my face and a little flutter in my tummy like love. Then that first whiff is HEAVEN!! Instantly I’m on holidays, or working somewhere exotic. Citrus, Fruit, White flowers, Patchouli, Wood and Coconut, it’s a lavish, delicious, un-sweet cocktail of wonder. Did I say SEXY? This juice is super-uber-sexy. The boys really like it and want a closer sniff, much closer. This is the kind of scent that has all the girls in the rooms eyes turning to slits and any boy you’re nears eyes popping! Around $20/50ml at eGlobalBeauty it’s cheap as chips so you can spritz with abandon.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Terre d’Hermes by Hermes: This is an amazing fragrance. I have not yet met anyone who doesn’t LOVE it. On every person it smells different enough that you won’t recognise someone else wearing it next to you. It is a regular in the French Top 10 Mens and was designed by Jean-Claude Ellena to be reminiscent of the earth, forest, dirt. What you get with Terre d’Hermes is Citrus, Spice, Flowers, Earthy vetiver and Woods done better than anywhere else. Excellent on women and men it is a beautiful and sensual ride that will turn heads as you waft past, fragrant and intriguing. I have a friend who, outrageously, sprays the sheets with this after making the bed each week. Now that is extravagant!! Excellent for a Friday night and great for picking up sex partners. I found 100ml EdT under $60 at TradeServices

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

What I’d like you to do is tell us all your favourite Friday Night Fragrances in the comments below, doesn’t have to be cool or niche or expensive or anything really, just what you like to spritz on a Friday evening. Come on, join in….

Also, please pop on over to PerfumePosse because I guest there on a Friday and I think there’s a MAD LIVE Video Sniff going on over there. He he he

Below I’ve given you the gift of music. Aussie Kylie Minogue has a new single coming and it’s beautiful, so is the video. Have a squiz at our lovely Kylie, I think you’ll like it.
Till tomorrow we at APJ wish you only the magical good stuff and a great weekend.
Loads of love,
Portia xxx
.
Kylie Minogue – FLOWER

Femme (Vintage) by Edmond Roudnitska for Rochas 1943 LIVE Video Sniff

Hey Fumies,

I wonder if Edmond Roudniska is rolling in his grave? My mate David (Margeaux) and I take on one of the world’s most enduring fragrances in a LIVE Video Sniff! We are only enthusiasts and the thrill of being in front of a camera coupled with a few beverages, a group of the APJ crew together and our own madness means that we completely forget much of what we wanted to say, some of what we really should have said, and then mangle what we do say and add in bullshit to boot. Your mission, should you choose to take it, is to unravel the truth and tell us because we are up shit creek without a boat, let alone a paddle; and yes, I do know that Edmond Roudnitska was the creator, Edward Roudnitska is a figment of my crazed, and deranged by sniffing too much perfume, brain.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

What I can tell you is that we had a really fabulous time making this. Surely that counts for something. If you’d like to see a review of the currently available for next to nothing reformulation that is still wickedly wonderful then Femme by Edmond Roudnitska for Rochas 1943 <<JUMP

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

As always I have to thank my BFF for her video and editing skills which she gives up her precious spare time to do, THANKS KATH!! Also a shout out to Jin who makes it blog ready and lastly I need to thank Margeaux for being an excellent fellow with such a great personality and a great mate, not to mention that he is a complete SPUNK!!

Do please enjoy our frolic through Vintage Femme by Rochas.
Till we see you tomorrow we wish you only good stuff.
Loads of love,
Portia xx

Bois D’Argent EdC by Annick Menardo for DIOR 2004

Hey Hey Perfumista Buddies,
I hope today has been awesome for you all! Of course, if it’s been shite then things will no doubt get better sometime in the near future. Peaks and troughs, or as I say PIGS and TROUGHS. It will get better, the sun will shine again. Promise. Whenever I feel the black dog at my back I try a new fragrance sample and really move into the fragrance and do my best to understand the story and twists & turns of its life cycle. though not currently in a bad patch it’s good to remember them when life is going well and prepare, as much as anyone can, for the next time. So there are a GAZILLION untried samples in this house. When I found these 2 lovely mini movies from DIOR I wanted a fragrance from the house as an excuse to give you these as a present. I have the complete La Collection Privee from SurrenderToChance a while back and today Bois Argent EdC by Annick Menardo took my fancy.

Bois D’Argent EdC by Annick Menardo for DIOR 2004


Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Juniper berries, cypress, iris
Heart: Incense, Somalia myrrh, patchouli, wine, woods
Base: Vanilla, musk, amber, woody notes, honey and leather

I love the fresh, juniper and cypress opening on my skin, it is a very citrus blast that is quickly cooled by the iris and the cypress soon gets quite woody. A surprising reminder of the fragrant Hindu rites in Varanasi as the patchouli and incense/myrrh take their allotted places there is already a quiet waft of vanilla and a honeyed sweetening coming up behind and sitting just under the full radar but hinting at great things to come. It doesn’t say it in the notes but there seems to be a whisper of oudh here also: earth, livestock and dander. I don’t get wine at all, and the musk is well hidden, both must be bit players used to fill the fragrance out or maybe my skin/nose overlooks them. I love that the powdery goodness stays quite a way into the fragrance life and that the leather isn’t even noticeable until a couple of hours in, and then it’s like a change in the wind and back to sweet honeyed amber and then it pops its lovely soft leather head out again to remind you to notice it for a while and then flits away. Though not a big sillage fragrance it is tenacious, pumping out its lovely story for hours and hours, ever more quietly till it is a whisper more than you. I like that this EdC lasts so well and tells a beautiful story while it lives. Wearable even in the most zero fragrance tolerant workplaces, you could get away with saying Bois D’Argent is a scented body lotion because it is quietly gorgeous and rich. A completely selfish guilty pleasure. 12 hours later I am still skin scented and TSO Jin can definitely still smell a difference.

Dashaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi Photo Stolen en.wikipedia

I wish this was easy to get hold of here in Australia but it is not stocked. I will continue with samples till I see a split on one of the Facebook pages, or till I get to the Northern Hemisphere.

Olfactoria’sTravels does a wonderful review and so does TheNonBlonde
SurrenderToChance sells Bois D’Argent EdC from 1ml/$3 or you can buy from VERY select retailers and DIOR shops

Which of this range has taken your fancy? I’ve reviewed a few now and have yet to dislike one though they aren’t all skin compatible for me.

Below are a couple of lovely newish DIOR videos, please take a moment from your life to enjoy them.
Until we see you tomorrow, be well.
Portia xx

Lady Dior Teaser

Lady Dior Web-Umentary

The Aoud by Pierre Mancera for Mancera 2011

Hiya All,

I have the best friends in the world. we had a BarBQ get together yesterday with a few of them and I was given a bottle of The Aoud by my mate Alice who has just returned from the UK recently. She was down shopping in Selfridges fragrance floor and the Mancera SA was so good at her job, and Alice so overwhelmed by the incredible amount of choice, that in next to no time Alice was buying herself and me a bottle each of different frags in the line. I’m not sure what Alice got for herself but The Aoud by Mancera is a winner. Don’t go to the Mancera website, it has no information, is totally annoying to navigate and doesn’t even tell you about their fragrances other than 3 of them. GRRRR! So bloody unhelpful and this lack of information only hinders us blogging perfume enthusiasts that like to go see what is what. Even more terrible for shoppers I think.

Fragrantica has this to say:
Perfumer Pierre Mancera opened his first Mancera luxurious perfume boutique at Place Vendo in Paris. Mancera perfumes are made from precious and luxurious ingredients, rare and refined materials, inspired by Art Deco design.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

The fragrance features accords of: Geranium, sandalwood, saffron, incense, rose, agarwood (oud), leather and ambergris.

On opening the beautifully presented package with its shiny gold, very Arabian feeling, embossed cardboard box there is a gold drawstring pouch with the Mancera M in black repeated. It is a luxurious first glimpse and I like the feeling. The 60ml bottle is hefty and simple. Fits beautifully in my hand and the screw cap is a nice touch meaning the bottle is hand or gym bag ready without the worry of cap loss and self spraying of atomiser. V Important.

Photo Stolen lindsaybrothers

I love the opening medicinal notes, they are refined and luxurious. The oudh is noticeable right at the start as a warm, earthy, horse apple, green and grassy waft that lasts through the fragrance but it’s not toxic or heavy like many of the Arabian style of oudh. It is airy and fresh. The geranium adding a bright counterpoint and the sandalwood giving its buttery smoothness almost immediately. Oudh, geranium and sandalwood are triumphant kings through the story of this fragrance for me, their characters working in tandem and against each other to keep The Aoud interesting and unusual. Though rose is a featured note it doesn’t play heavily here, more a light accompaniment with the leather, saffron and incense. At about the 1.5-2 hour mark I start getting a lovely salty beach/sea water smell that I think may be The Aoud by Mancera’s ambergris. A fragrance of many colours, light and shade, an adventure in a bottle, subtle, alluring; I am running out of cliches to describe something far from cliched; even with the completely overwhelming amount of oudh on the market this is different and extremely wearable. No problem wearing anywhere except a strict no fragrance policy or close quarters work environment. The Aoud has good sillage but is not a skunker unless you are extremely lavish with your application, scent bubble around one meter maximum after the first hour.

Photo Stolen ferrebeekeeper

See how bright and new, sleek and lovely this trireme looks, The Aoud by Mancera has a kind of freshness about it that makes me think sea journey in a newly hewn ship with livestock in the hold for food and riding, naked, muscular slaves and the ever present smell of salt water on the cool breeze, but on the deck it would be warm and fragrant, and we of course would be in charge.

UniversalPerfumes&Cosmetics has 120ml/$130
Selfridges in the UK also has a selection in 60 & 120ml

Thanks for coming and spending a moment at APJ, see you tomorrow,
Portia xx