Thierry Wasser

"Something old, something new" Part 1.1 BBC Perfume Documentary

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Hello lovely APJ Crew,

Over the next few Sundays we we”ll be able to watch these 3 wonderful documentaries. You’ll need to grab a cuppa/juice/wine and maybe some breakfast/lunch/dinner and settle in for an hour, there are no ad breaks but you can pause and come back through your Sunday. Two of the fragrances talked about in the doco are Guerlain’s Shalimar Parfum Initial and Loud by Hilfiger. We watch as Loud is released for the first time and go through the creation of it. Also we get a rare glimpse into Thierry Wasser’s rise to the head perfumer at Guerlain, and the fall of Jacques Guerlain. Very interesting.

Shalimar Parfum Initial Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Enjoy,
Portia xx

“Something old, something new” Part 1 BBC Perfume Documentary

Shalimar: Ode a la Vanille Sur la Route du Mexique by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2013

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OK,

My mate Chairman Meow not long ago told me about this fragrance being sold for a song at FragranceNet. I was interested but at the time I’d just returned from Europe and was already thinking about our next adventure in Korea. There has been plenty of chatter about the differences in the Ode a la Vanille range with Madagascar (known as ShaLemur by the perfumistas) coming out as the clear winner from the group. Today’s offering has been called too close to the original, uninspired and lackluster. Well, I think that depends on what you are after and your expectations….

Shalimar: Ode a la Vanille Sur la Route du Mexique by Guerlain 2013

By Thierry Wasser

Shalimar Vanille Mexique Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Caramel, chocolate, incense, iris, opoponax, vanilla, tonka bean

Here’s the deal for me. I love Shalimar. They all sing to me on some level. Shalimar: Ode a la Vanille Sur la Route du Mexique (hereafter known as Mexique) is pretty, furry, sweet and glamorous. Close to Shalimar original? Yes, they could be sisters, where the others are probably cousins. How I think though is that Shalimar original has changed over the years too, the Shalimar we bought in 1930, 1970, 2011 and now in 2014 are all different. Sometimes the differences have been subtle and at other times the fragrance bears a more distant relationship. Though I have no knowledge of how Thierry Wasser works, or any of his reasonings, my mind has made some completely unsubstantiated jumps to conclusions. Please read the following paragraph as a story, not as truth:

I think Thierry Wasser has been playing around with Shalimar to try and get it back to what is more like the original intent of Guerlain. Over the years the tweaks and turns, the different perfumers, the availability of ingredients and now regulations had changed what we bought as Shalimar in 2011 to something still lovely in and of itself but at a far remove from the sensual, dusty, creamy, furry, animal, confection that it was. Having smelled his recreation of the original Shalimar at the Osmotheque in February I wonder if he was inspired by being able to make his houses mainstay fragrance as close as he could to the original formula. So did he, Mr Wasser, then decide to see if he could reinvent the masterpiece? Are we now getting the batches that were made as test runs? Could these be the lead up to what I think is one of the loveliest Shalimars in my coillection, 2013/4, where the growl is back, the lovely and brilliant opening already infused with a tiger that stalks the fragrance till the very last gasp in dry down? Are these the beauties that were lovely but not Shalimar enough?

Shalimar Vanille Mexique Guerlain Mexico Rod Waddington FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

So here I am with a 5ml atomiser of Mexique from My Perfume Samples. I have worn it a coup0le of times and the first hour and a half is mesmerisingly beautiful. I spritz before work and find myself transported to another world, this is like Shalimar: Taste of Fragrance. What was already an ice cream laden gourmand has become a modern chewy choc-caramel lolly, similar but dry and  lacking the HUGE zing of citrus that is so Shalimar, Also missing from Shalimar and found in the Mexique is a furry, mannish, animal purr: a darkness. I get a quirky amberish, macaroon type sweetness that is both crispy and gooey simultaneously, like big coffee sugar pieces that you crunch in your mouth with the dregs of your coffee. It also seems slightly weightless, as if it’s missing some of the important base notes and its lifespan is also considerably shorter at under 4 hours fragrant on my skin, leaving a trail of sweet nothings for a little while longer.

FragranceNet has $46/50ml
My Perfume Samples starts at $3/ml to $9/5ml

Do I love Mexique? Is it different or special enough to FB? To be honest, I have just ordered one.
Portia xx

DIOR Addict 2014 Ad Campaign + Review

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Heya Fragrance and Visual art lovers,

Sometimes the advertisements are even more iconic than the scents. Did I just write sometimes? Anyway, here is a fabulous set up: Russian catwalk model Sasha Luss, photographed by Ryan McGinley for Christain DIOR. I grabbed this from one of my favourite fashion online mags: art8amby.

Dior Addict 2014 #2

Dior Addict 2014 #4

Dior Addict 2014 #1

Dior Addict 2014 #3(source)

DIOR Addict by Thierry Wasser for DIOR 2002

Dior Addict Dior FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin leaves, mulberry flowers
Heart: Night queen flower, Bulgarian rose, orange flower
Base: Bourbon vanilla, sandal wood, Tonka bean

Victoria at Bois et Jasmin sums DIOR Addict up perfectly: While my relationship with Addict is ridden with ambivalence at best, I would rather be intrigued by a fragrance than bored.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
FragranceX has $104/50ml
My Perfume Samples starts at $3/ml to $9/5ml

Did you run away screaming, roll your eyes or move in for a closer sniff? Have you walked past again and again over the last 12 years? Aren’t you the least bit curious?
Portia xx

Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2012

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Hey there Crew,

Sometimes when I am in touch with Birgit from Olfactoria’s Travels she might mention a bottle or two that I love and she is ready to let loose, just such a one as this. I can tell she loved it for a while because there is a fair amount missing, sometimes tastes change or something along a similar vein eclipses your current bottle, a million reasons. Maybe you need to sell off a few to buy a newby, always an excellent way of keeping stuff loved and in rotation.

Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete by Guerlain 2012

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Cedar, jasmine, saffron, cardamom, laurel, oud, myrrh, patchouli, leather

BaseNotes gives theese featured accords:
Top: Laurel, Neroli
Heart: Jasmine, Patchouli, Saffron, Cedar
Base: Leather, Myrrh

Perfume Shrine tells me that Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete means Dreaming of a Summery Wood, cool summer evening maybe? Summer doesn’t really fit for me to be honest perhaps Autumn? Maybe that’s the dreaming bit? Dreaming in Autumn and Winter of the memories of a Summer wood but surrounded by the scents of winter. OK I’m on board with that. I love the beaded curtain on the bottle with tiny little Guerlain logos and bees, also the Arabic/French writing and the squarish, spare design that you can fit loads of on a shelf. Did I mention the box this comes in? It’s so ridiculously luxe all by itself.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain Turkish Delight WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Opening up I get honeyed sweets, like baklava or sugary real Turkish Delight (some days it’s more a candied citrus) with woods and fairly early on I also get a patchouli/oudh vibe that runs baseline. Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete is woodsy and sensual, spicy, and a little waxy. It washes over me in warm, elegant waves like toffee, making everything seem fluid and the air thick. Imagine looking into a brightly lit room through 1970s amber glass, a teinte, a glow, a wash of luminous whiskey coloured grandeur. Thierry Wasser has made something regal that throws such a luscious nod to the middle east but is ensconced firmly in the heart of Paris, the oudh/patchouli clean and dinner suited. How has he made these notes into a gourmand, I seriously want to eat myself up. There are some hints of smoke and the sweaty green of cardamom/cumin adding depth and variation through Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete life.

 Turkish deLIGHTPhoto Stolen LASZLO ILYES Flickr

Through my wear I am most conscious of how amazingly international I smell. It’s as if all the sweet, delicious and pretty pieces of the middle east have been distilled into a fragrance. No dust or desert, not super sweet rose or oily, cloying, heavy and dark fragrance, no camels, tents, sand or oasis. Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete is sheer but still super fragrant, it’s like Mr Wasser has added air and space to the denseness of what we expect from the middle east. So wearable and still unusual. Guerlain from top to bottom: but 21st century Guerlain.

The deep dry down is clean sweaty skin, softest, most loved, old suede and resinous myrrh but that is far, far, far into the future. Next morning there are still viable traces of Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete. What a fragrance. Wear it everywhere if you dare.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain Dancers BBC.UKPhoto Stolen BBC.UK

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Olfactoria’s Travels looks at the three Les Déserts d’Orient collection
PlaceVendome in Belguim has €190/75ml and also sends to the world (Birgit bought my bottle there)
Universal Perfumes has Les Déserts d’Orient collection $276/75ml and send to the world
Surrender To Chance has Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete from $4.60/.5ml or has Les Déserts d’Orient 3 x .5ml from $13

Have you tried any of the three Les Déserts d’Orient? What was your favourite? Would you like to?
Till tomorrow we at APJ wish you health, wealth and happiness, and the ability to see them all when they come.
Portia xx

Shalimar Parfum Initial by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2011

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Hello there APJ Family,

In 2011 there was an enormous flurry of excitement, Guerlain and relatively new comer to the reins of their fragrance division Theirry Wasser, decided to reinvent with a sideways flanker the most famous of the houses fragrances; Shalimar. Flankers are a tricky problem for frag houses, too close and why bother, too far and WTF has this got to do with the original. I understand that it is better to have a pre-existing fan base, brand recognition, history and visual cue to spur your product forwards into the stratosphere of over 1300 new releases from brands big enough to have registered their launches on BaseNotes in 2012. Still it’s a tricky concept.

Shalimar Parfum Initial by Guerlain 2011

ShalimarParfumInitial FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, orange, green notes
Heart: Rose, jasmine, iris, vetiver, patchouli
Base: Vanilla, white musk, tonka bean, caramel

One of the Fragrantica commenters 100mlEDT says: Entirely representing the outer trappings of the original and giving it rose coloured glasses. I thought this a masterly summation and am quite jealous that I didn’t think of it myself. A softer, younger, lighter and ultimately more wearable version, in today’s fragrant world, than its older, more full-on sister. I would also recommend Shalimar Parfum Initial by Guerlain for those who like the idea of being a Shalimar woman, with all the history and structure that is implied, but who really don’t like the fragrance.

After the first hour I think you could even wear Shalimar Parfum Initial in close work proximity, it is not a sillage or scent bubble monster and wears very close on my skin, just the occasional waft as I move or if I stick my head down my top. It stays at this almost fragrant stage though for hours and I loose all traces of it somewhere 5-7 hours, depending on the day. If I wear Shalimar Parfum Initial by Guerlain at night I can sometimes still get a faint whiff next morning.

ShalimarParfumInitial art8ambyPhoto Stolen art8amby

Further reading BoisDeJasmin and 1000Fragrances
CheapSmells has a 60ml Gift Set with lotion and bag around $80
SurrenderToChance starts at $4/ml

How do you think this flanker rated? Did you read the further readings? Who do you agree with more, BoisDeJasmin or 1000Fragrances? I loved both the arguments and they have left me thinking hard about expectations and the global fragrance market. You?

Whichever way you swing I hope you do it in the company of people you love, or at least fragrances you love,
Till tomorrow,
Portia xx

La Petite Robe Noire by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2012

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Hello Fragrant Fume Family,

It’s no secret that I love house Guerlain. I enjoy their famous oldies, am constantly pleasantly surprised by many of their new releases and a few lately have had me gasping because they are so incredible. Somehow, though I love the movie that advertises today’s fragrance I thought I would hate it and that it was going to be basically a bad squeaky sugar dripping CelebuScent but at a higher price point.

It is my sister’s Birthday today so if you’re reading Jodie. HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!

La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain 2011

LaPetiteRobeNoireGuerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Sicilian lemon, almonds, anise
Heart: Roses, raspberry macaroons, licorice
Base: Vanilla, patchouli, smoked tea, musk

There has been some exciting goings on with La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain. Originally small release, then a big release sequel and now a tweaked big release original. Guerlain light is how I want to describe what I smell on my skin. It is fruity, flirty and fun, smells expensive and modern but also pushes a few of my perfumista buttons. the opening is all the frightful fizzy sweet now frag but the almonds and anise give it a heft and warmth that is quite unexpected. Though it is a gourmand the raspberry macaroons and vanilla are only mildly bakery-ish, this is a slightly grown up, sophisticated version of what is a very mainstream acceptable fragrance. Thierry Wasser has walked a very fine line and while maintaining the integrity of the Guerlain history brings us, and the youth market that is moving on up from Bieber and Beyonce, something wholly wearable and wholly Guerlain, or should that read Holy Guerlain.

LittleBlackDresses frannyLovesMariiePhoto Stolen FrannyLovesMarie

Thomas at TheCandyPerfumeBoy notes that in this incarnation the rose steals the heart and I’m inclined to agree. A marvelous fruity and slightly spicy, honeyed rose that does a continued dance with the anise/licorice and the sugary, fruity macaroon. As the base comes through it is the vanilla and musk that really perform on my skin leaving a sweet laundry smell, more like the laundry liquid than the clean garments, over a vanilla. The patchouli must be washed clean because I barely notice it at all and very little smoke or tea. This could just be my skin and out weather here in Oz.

SpiritOfTheBlackDress polkadotbridePhoto Stolen polkadotbride

About 3-6 hours on different days of real fragrance and a little too fragrant for work I think unless you are the boss or not in close contact. Excellent dress up or date night wear and surprisingly for something skewed so feminine it is ripper on TSO Jin.

Further reading TheCandyPerfumeBoy and NowSmellThis
FragranceX has 100ml/$94
MyPerfumeSamples starts at $4/ml or $12/5ml

Do you ever believe something is going to be ghastly and then try it only to find out that it is lovely and wearable? You must have at least one story to share, please do in the comments below.

Till tomorrow. I’m off to have a cup of tea and a biscuit, really I feel I’ve earned it.
Loads of love,
Portia xx.

La Petite Robe Noire – GUERLAIN

Aqua Allegoria Jasminora by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2011

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Hey All,

As you know it’s summer down here but I also know that sometimes you need a spritz of springtime to wash away the winter blues. Here is one such, bursting with the freshness of spring, full of hope and sparkling like magic. I originally smelled this from a super frag fairy that added a little sample with something else , THANK YOU!!

 Aqua Allegoria Jasminora by Guerlain 2011

Jasminora FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, bergamot, cyclamen
Heart: Calabrian jasmine, freesia, lily of the valley
Base: Musk, amber

Few words make me want to bypass a fragrance as quickly as clean will, fortunately I tried this before I read any reviews though when I did read reviews I have hazy recollections of reading them before. A few reviewers complained of the artificiality displayed here but after the sizzling bergamot and green snap & crackle of the galbanum pass the waxy cyclamen brings a plastic bridge to the heart flowers and I think it’s a perfect segue. If you are looking for a dirty, indolic or sensual jasmine then you need to look elsewhere, what we have here is only a nod to jasmine, the cleanest, clearest jasmine note while not smelling at all like the jasmine on the plant. Here we find the jasmine of imagination with all the nasty bits left on the cutting room floor. The heft of the musks creates an unrelenting freshness through the whole life, about 5-7 hours depending, of Aqua Allegoria Jasminora by Guerlain and is what fabric softeners dream of becoming when they grow up and blossom into fine fragrance. I completely miss even a hint of amber on my skin, the dry down is a transparent floral laid over the squeaky clean musks, so pretty and now but still deep enough to be a Guerlain.

Fresh, bright and clean is a great way to smell when Thierry Wasser has been at the helm and he hit a home run with Jasminora, my new Aqua Allegoria full bottle. The advertisement below has orchids and I do feel a certain night blooming orchid entrancement floating through Aqua Allegoria Jasminora by Guerlain even though it’s not noted.

If you want something that will be fragrant but unobtrusive then this could be a very good go to for you. I like the lack of heft that comes with the Aqua Allegoria line at Guerlain, it’s a shame this one was a limited edition but it is still out there on discount sites.Wearing jasminora to work would be OK I think unless you are in particularly fragrance phobic environs, perfect for dinner, shopping, sport or after and great for the guys too.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Further Reading NowSmellThis and PerfumeShrine offer differing views
Amazon has 7 x 75ml left for under $50 at time of writing
ThePerfumedCourt starts at $3/ml

Have you tried Jasminora or any of the Aqua Allegorias? How do you like their fresh and youthful style? Is there one you pined for that’s now discontinued? How do you feel about Limited editions?

I want to take this opportunity to thank everyone who has been involved in APJ in 2012. it has been an awesome ride and I am THRILLED about 2013 and seeing what we can achieve in it. Resolutions? To be the best I can be even when I don’t feel like it. To a different, non judgmental, forgiving level of best. To be good to the people around me. To try to understand foolish, uncaring and selfish behaviours in others and do away with them in myself. Oh yeah! More money, less work.

HappyNewYear2013 luckywpPhoto stolen luckywp

Till tomorrow, Next year!!
Portia xx

Les Deserts D’Orient by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2012 LIVE Video Sniff

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YIPEE! Welcome back,

EmmaKate and I are back in front of the camera proving to one and all that we love perfume but know only the outer edges of anything important relating to it. This time we put the Guerlain Les Deserts D’Orient under our microscope.

Photo Stolen aromamore

Yes, we know that bois means wood, now! Ha Ha Ha what a pair of dunderheads. Doesn’t matter. Enjoy this for what it is. Two mates having a sniff after work and a couple of bevvies, you are supposed to feel like you’re sitting at the table with us having a crisp, dry white/scotch/coffee/sparkling mineral water and we are all having a first go together. If it was perfect it wouldn’t be so much fun.

As always special thanks need to go out to Kath for filming and editing, EmmaKate for being a good sport and Jin for making it blog ready. Thanks gang!!

Gerome, The Harem Bath Stolen melbourneblogger

Here is a short featured accords list for each from 1000Flowers:
Rose Nacrée du Désert: Ispahan rose, saffron, patchouli, oudh, benzoin.
Songe d’un Bois d’été: cedar, jasmine, saffron, cardamom, leather, laurel leaf, oudh, myrrh, patchouli, leather.
Encens Mythique d’Orient: frankincense, musk, neroli, moss, saffron, Ispahan rose, amber

For further reading see 1000Flowers and OlfactoriasTravels

SurrenderToChance has a pack of all 3 at $13/.5ml of each

Whatever you do between now and tomorrow when you come back, make sure you take the time to do something YOU love. Even though you may be shit at it, like we are at doing perfume videos sometimes.
Portia xx

Sweet Darling by Thierry Wasser for Kylie Minogue 2007

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Hiya Fellow Fumies,

This is not a fragrance I would ever have seen myself owning or reviewing and I’ve not read a review of any of Kylie’s fragrances but instinctively felt they’d be shite. Even the name Sweet Darling has my “WTF why another super sweet boring clone-ish confection by one more celeb with NO FECKING CLUE about perfume,” face on.

I love Kylie, have performed to her music, had it blaring from my car/house/radio, loved her videos, fashion, concerts. I’ve been in the same room as her even, though we’ve never spoken. A girlfriend of mine (Heya Annie!) has a few of her fragrances but this one didn’t work for her so she wondered if I would like it. Um, sure….

Photo Stolen girl

So brought said bottle home and looked it up, Thierry Wasser (of Guerlain fame) made both Darling and this sweet flanker Sweet Darling. Maybe it won’t be so bad starts to click over in my head. What if it was fabulous and we’d all been ignoring it because we thought it was a celebutards celebuscent? Could it be so?

Fragrantica gives the accords as:
Top: Passionfruit, freesia
Heart: Boronia, cotton candy
Base: Australian sandalwood, patchouli and vanilla

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

How does it smell on? If you like Miss Dior Cherie or whatever they call it these days then this is for you. It’s a super bargain slightly different version of that. GAK!!!

Fizzy and uber sweet opening, honestly it’s just sweet, I can’t pick passionfruit or freesia out of this, maybe some pineapple? I can’t THINK!! Like that little bit of vomit in the back of your mouth sometimes, sweet, acidic, wrong, swallow, burning sensation. It stays sweet and ripe, but not so searing after about 20 minutes, and the cotton candy is definitely doing a kissy kissy twirl thang but the boronia has passed me by, there’s a slightly spicy note that may be boronia? I can’t tell. At about the 40 minute mark I am getting a vanilla/patchouli swirl through the sweet stuff. It stops being quite so sweet by the one hour mark and starts to be a very conventional, and quite nice, vanilla/wood/chouli base. I don’t know how long it lasts because I am going for a bath.

CheapSmells has 50ml for $20.27, and the rest of the range

I hope all is your world is SWEET, Darling. Have you tried it? Any of Kylie’s fragrances?
See you tomorrow for another instalment.
Portia xx
Even though I didn’t love Sweet Darling, I do LOVE Kylie’s current single, TIMEBOMB. Yes, I’ve shown it before but it ROCKS!!