Laudano Nero by Paolo Terenzio for Tiziana Terenzi 2014

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Portia

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Hey there APJ,

Yesterday Evan came over for a sniff. Well he really came over to give me a sniff of his newest fragrant beauties. What a fabulous bunch he has purchased lately. There were Nishane, Creed, Tom Ford, Villoresi and a bunch of others. So much fun sniffing together on cardboard and after initial sniffings I decided to put two on my skin, Tom Ford Lavender Palm and Laudano Nero.

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Wearing Perfume: Different Ways of Testing

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Post by Tina G

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Hi APJ!

I’d like to talk a bit about how fragrance application can have a pronounced effect on how it presents on your skin. It is one of the reasons that it is usually worthwhile to test a fragrance a few times to get to “know” it before making judgement calls.

Wearing Perfume: Different Ways of Testing

Burlesque by Maria Candida Gentile 2015

Burlesque Maria Candida Gentile FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blood orange
Heart: Iris pallida, rose
Base: Incense, patchouli

Maria Candida Gentile – Burlesque is a case in point. It was put onto my fragrance radar by Tara from A Bottled Rose, and it sounded like my kind of thing, so a sample was ordered.

On my first two spritzes I held the nozzle close to my arm with a heavy application. And the results were horrifying. All I got was an insipid limp wet patchouli with a hint of smoke in the background. I quite like patch, but there was nothing nice about what I was smelling. It was less ‘Burlesque’ and more ‘fetid water nymph’. One of my written notes was “try a lighter spray”. So I did.

A gentle swish of a spritz at a distance, and wafting my arm through the residual aerated fragrance was a totally different result. At once I could smell a warm rounded orange, which was totally absent previously, and it came through with a fab sexy powdery iris and sweet pink rose. That brought a smile and a nod – so that is what this fragrance is all about! It was balanced very differently, warm and inviting with the patchouli grounding it instead of swamping (good word, actually…) and the pale smokiness bringing an interesting dimension to the whole picture. Really gorgeous and very wearable.

There are some fragrances which are better dabbed – for me most of the Serge Lutens work really well like this, even though they come with sprayers. Of course, be really wary of spraying Parfum strength *anything*. I’ve done serious (temporary) damage to my nose trying this approach. Unless it is a Vero Profumo in which case they are designed for spraying. (and if you’ve never tried any of Vero’s fragrances, drop everything and order samples NOW).

Chimaera by Paolo Terenzi for Tiziana Terenzi 2014

Chimaera Tiziana Terenzi  FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Black pepper, lemon, saffron, leather, tolu balsam, thyme, bay leaf, soil tincture
Heart: Iris, red pepper, carnation, peony, honey, magnolia, sage
Base: Patchouli, cashmere wood, labdanum, benzoin, caramel, agarwood (oud), tobacco, canadian balsam, leather, pine tree

Another worthwhile trial is to give fragrances a run through in different seasons. Something which does not work for you in summer may be altogether fabulous in winter. Tiziana Terenzi – Chimaera is like this for me. In winter it is complex and kinetically marbled with a lemon and honey keeping a weaving thread through leather, bay and basalm. I found at four wonderfully distinct stages during dry down – so exciting! In summer, on my skin it turns into a gourmand thick with caramel and saffron, the honey and lemon are still present but it is much more linear and to my nose not so interesting.

Have you had any successes or failures with your fragrance testing? What have been the lessons learnt?

Tina G xx

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi for Tiziana Terenzi 2013

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Post by Trésor

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There are a few occasions…let’s face it…many occasions where instead of craving restrained grace or meticulously polished oeuvre I want to smell of everything; all the notes, all the flowers, all of them and right now. Every once and a little while I will be perusing the online shops and come across a potion with a labyrinthine list of notes and my heart goes aflutter, my resolve all but disappears and without warning I have a blind bought bottle of some mystery fragrance with a bazillion notes to positively douse myself in upon it’s arrival. My most recent discovery has been a little potion from the Italian house of Tiziana Terenzi that goes by the name of Maremma, otherwise known as the next stop on my journey to unapologetic fragrant hedonism.

Maremma by Tiziana Terenzi 2013

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi

Maremma Tiziana Terenzi FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top:
Bitter Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Black Currant, Holm Oak Acorn
Heart: Angelica, Orris Root, Agarwood, Lotus Wood, Cumin, Honey
Base: Patchouli, Cocoa Powder, Sandalwood, Cistus Labdanum, Amber Crystals, Rosewood

The opening sequence of Maremma is a story of luxuriant, utterly unctuous cocoa bathed in the glimmering chartreuse radiance of a rather full-bodied bergamot. The cocoa is sweet, but not deliriously so, pirouetting gracefully as an haute confection rather than weighing the composition down or making it register as exceedingly opaque. The florid, almost banana-like creaminess of ylang ylang along with her intrinsic powderiness infuses the atmosphere, veiling the composition in a scintillating gossamer haze of delicate, flavescent powder. The subtle subversion of agarwood and velvet patchouli lurk beneath, never truly allowing Maremma to reach the point of effervescence, instead working harmoniously to temper a degree of saccharinity which might otherwise seem overwhelming.

Maremma Tiziana Terenzi Iris_orientalis WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Ascending from the murky depth of these two notes is a glorious bouquet of buttery iris and silken jasmine, each releasing their precious aroma in tender undulations; adding yet another fragrant layer to this beguiling brew. The delectable stickiness of blackcurrant jam alongside just a kiss of glistening, aureate honey affords a particular density to the composition; an effortless marriage and flawless synchronicity. As the composition begins to dry down the creaminess observed in the incipience begins to intensify and is joined by delicate tendrils of clean skin musk and a crystalline vision of amber. It is this stage of the fragrance that happens to be my favourite and luckily (for me, at least) it’s the one that lasts the longest. A gentle hologram of palisander and sandalwood flickers in the distance and the ghosts of what came before radiate their blessings down softly down from above. This impeccably cozy aura lasts and lasts (and lasts) until finally it fades into all but nothing.

Maremma Tiziana Terenzi hard_wood_texture_floor DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

When it comes to sillage Maremma’s got it in the bag, it is an extrait de parfum packaged in a spray atomizer so you can just imagine the sort of projection you would get with something like this. It’s not so dramatic that they’ll smell you in the next city over but it’s most certainly not the first thing I would reach for if subtlety were my endgame. The longevity with Maremma is out of this world; I could still detect it on my skin 24 hours after my initial application. That’s pretty freaking phenomenal if you ask me, especially for someone who’s skin eats perfume like it’s breakfast.

Maremma Tiziana Terenzi Kitchen Sink GeographPhoto Stolen Geograph

I would urge you to give Maremma a go if you’re the sort who is into densely populated fragrances or have affection for things like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid, Van Cleef and Arpel’s Precious Oud or even Dior’s Poison. I think you may just find yourself with a brand new lemming if you do.

Further reading: The Scented Apprentice
LuckyScent has $145/100ml
First In Fragrance has €135/100ml

So, my darlings, what are your favourite everything-but-the-kitchen-sink fragrances?

Until next time,

Trésor xo