I am less taken with this show, Raf Simons does some great and exciting stuff with surreal animal print, fabric uses are interesting and some of the colours are killer. I love the side ponytails and the long plastic boots (which seem to be a favourite of his) but the collection has only rare highlights for me. There is quite a bit of repetition through the DIOR couture and pret a porter ranges and over seasons. It has me wondering if Raf is creating a signature for himself at DIOR or if he is doing a timeline of incremental change?
The reason that he created this show as he did it is much more interesting so I’ve given you the interview today instead of the show. you’ll see enough of the frocks to make your own decisions.
I don’t normally put the full runway show on APJ but this Pret a Porter range is VERY interesting. For me the point between gorgeous and disgusting are all filled in. there are some monstrosities but done with the usual CHANEL/Lagerfeld attention to detail and finish which takes them out of the merely awful and into a whole new realm.
We are treated to a wide and varied bunch of textures in this parade, in fact the whole show seems to be about texture more than fashion. Layering, pearls, 50’s suit meets 70s retro and all done in a fabulous arena, LOVED the working cafe idea with baristas and waiters serving the models.
When it all goes right though there are some spectacular beauties. Collar treatments, bejewelled aprons, bomber jackets, at the end a fabulous chiffon set, the CHANEL suit is re-imagined and super wearable. I could see a couple of them on my Mum if she was still with us, especially the beige & black shoe. Fabulously thick and bold woven checks, almost an Issey Miyake use of 3 dimensions but all done in classical CHANEL style. The male models that sprinkle the show are also produced beautifully.
Recently we showed the CHANEL S/S 2015 Haute Couture show. Here is a little snippet of what it took to make those fabulous gowns the 3D extravaganza that they are. If you love seeing some of the tricks behind the scenes then you will be mesmerised by this 2.34 minute video.
I was not crazy about Miss Dior really but recently my mate Natalie from Another Perfume Blog (now defunct) gave me some vintage Miss Dior Cherie and I have to admit it rocked my socks off.
As always Natalie Portman is perfect in her role. This time as the grand daughter of the super wealthy. DIOR has done a wonderful job dressing her and the sets.
Enjoy a couple of minutes of pure escapism.
Portia xx
Miss Dior 2015 – The new film (Official Director’s Cut)
Like so much of the work done by Bottega Veneta this 1.45m mini movie is beautifully crafted. As one of the leading new forces in designer perfumery as well as being my favoured brand of leathergoods, that woven leather is just irresistible.
Bottega Veneta says: Bottega Veneta is pleased to present its latest creative collaboration through a unique endeavor that seemingly brings Tomas Maier’s Spring-Summer 2015 collection for Bottega Veneta to life. The film, entitled “Emotion of Sound”, is the centerpiece of a unique initiative designed to emotionally engage and indulge the senses.
CHANEL, Martin Scorsese and James Grey. Add actor Gaspard Ulliel into that mix and you know it’s going to be special. I hope you enjoy the interview and mini movie.
Portia xx
One of my heroes is Dame Edna Everidge. She paved a form of drag that made it a good deal more acceptable to make my own career choices. With her fun, caustic, witty and well researched brand of humour she reached millions of people who would never have even thought about seeing a drag show in its Gay Land form but who would cough up big bickies to see this mad maven mock and reduce everything they were and loved. Did it in such a way that both victim and audience were laughing. That is an amazing talent.
I have only met Barry Humphries on a couple of occasions and he was extremely charming. When I thanked him for making my career choices easier, made it so much easier to say to Mum that I was going to be like Dame Edna, in fact made what I do verge on acceptable he was so humble and modest. It had never occurred to him that his being Dame Edna changed anyone’s life for the better other than the moments he spent making them laugh and think in theatres and on TV around the globe.
60 years in a profession notorious for its brevity. Amazing.
Here you see a chat on The Talk in America. Even though Dame Edna is her usual caustic self you can tell there has been long, hard thought about life and the place in it that Barry and Edna hold by both the cast and Edna. A lovely 3.20 minutes.
Enjoy,
Portia xx
The Talk – Dame Edna on 60-Year Career & Joan Rivers
Portia: Hi there APJ, Azar is suffering the busy life syndrome too. You may know that she is a music teacher and I asked her to give me some music to put with one of her all time favourite fragrances, Jungle Gardenia by Tuvaché, Jovan and now Coty. I edited up an email she sent me after talking about losing myself in music and fragrance simultaneously, thanks Azar for opening my ears to something new. I love the way this piece jumps and spins, even when my mind wanbts to wandfer into thought it is jolted back to the music by its mood and force changes. Lovely.
Fragrantica gives these featured accords: Top: Greens, bitter orange, clary sage, cyclamen, heliotrope Heart: Gardenia, tuberose, tarragon, violet leaf, lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang-ylang Base: Oakmoss, benzoin, sandalwood, musk
I don’t think I ever did a Jungle Gardenia post…just commented a lot and mentioned Jungle Gardenia in some other reviews of vintage fragrances. I have a nice little stash of the really good old stuff (parfum and skin scent) and should probably do a review one of these days. The sillage is astounding and the longevity unbelievable. I spilled a little on a tissue in June. Not wanting to waste a drop I stored the tissue in my sock drawer. Every time I open that drawer I am greeted with an indolic floral blast and now my feet even smell like gardenias!
Below is a great piece of music by the Brazilian composer Hector Villa Lobos, Choros #5, Alma Brasilieras. This piece is rich, dark, deep and humid…not unlike Jungle Gardenia. This was originally written for piano. I have performed and taught the original solo piano version numerous times over the years. I have never made a recording myself and so hoped to find one on You Tube. Every single version I found had numerous rhythmic errors…so annoying. The YoYo Ma cello/piano version is beautiful and correct. I hope it gives you some idea of the piece as it was originally written for piano.
I have always loved Villa Lobos’ music. When Brad needed a companion piece to the Beethoven Triple I suggested another piece by Villa Lobos that was originally for piano and subsequently arranged by the composer for string orchestra – the Prelude from Bachianis Brasilieras 4 – the first 10 minutes of this second You tube video – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mf3SQ3dVz8. Notice the musician wiping the tears away at about 6:16 minutes into the recording.
This video has nothing to do with fragrance and everything to do with humanity. I don’t know why it came up in my YouTube feed but it was so unexpected that I watched it. What a fabulous thing it is, yet also very sad when you think how few get saved and how many die.
Here is something that resonated so strongly with me. Really leapt into my head and heart in an AHA moment so real and physical that it was like being struck by lightning. SHIT! Of course that’s how the creative process works, as if it could be any other way. It’s the percolation of success and failure that can only happen over time, with repeating the processes so regularly that they become you. Creation, in my case, needs craft and art so when someone speaks to me of the way that I need to continue, to create and create and create to reach the creation that I will be happy with is to see my life put into a two minute video, condensed to a microcosm and it makes it look like I have unwittingly stumbled across my secret plan. So secret even I was blissfully unaware that I had one.
Sorry to bore you with my ramble, watch the video. It probably won’t blow your mind like it did mine but it’s a worthwhile skerrick of information to have anyway.
Photo Stolen DIOR.com
Australian Perfume Junkies 