Youth Dew Amber Nude
Hello Australian Perfume Junkies,
Back in my days as a Beauty Advisor and Resident Makeup Artist at Estée Lauder, Myer Sydney City there was an extensive line of fragrances on the counter. I wanted to know them personally, to wear and experience the releases Estée Lauder gave the world. Decade after decade, a historical time line of fragrances show casing perfumery styles. It was the trend setters vs the best sellers. The name sake Estée and a whole Private Collection. 6 Men’s fragrances and a swag of flankers. It was my job to wear, recommend and sell fragrances to the customers of Estée Lauder.
I was completely spoiled for choice! I started with the ground breaking and historic vintage classic Youth Dew, which was originally conceived as a bath oil in 1953, then quickly fell in love with the 1969 animalic leather stunner Azuree. I admired the ultra feminine aldehydic florals Alliage and Beautiful and to be totally honest I only fell in lust with naughties starlet Pleasures. You should have seen the number of Pleasures flanker Christmas gifts packs I had to count one afternoon in the store room of late October 2010. ‘Ridiculous’
In 2005 Tom Ford lent his talents to recreating the first fragrance that pushed Lauder into the stratosphere she orbits today. Sending in a man to reinvent a woman’s work, how would he pay homage to Youth Dew. Could he produce a perfume variation even Estée herself would be proud of? It sounded risky and bold, but on the other hand a genius idea to give the old girl a dressing up by Ford, adding modern nuances and flavour while honoring its heritage.
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Magnolia, ginger, cinnamon, tea, grapefruit
Heart: Carnation, jasmine, ylang-ylang, black rose
Base: Sandalwood, amber, patchouli, vetiver.
From the very onset it is clear Amber Nude has Youth Dew graciously riding shotgun! Like a conscious voice in your mind it still has that famous recognisable balsamic undertone. Youth Dew Amber Nude is amped up with a boozy and brash opening. A giant rum soaked sucker punch that is entirely intoxicating, causing me to inhale as much of the bright citrus top notes as possible. Its a muddled cocktail that is just too divine to sip. Waxy lemon tinged magnolia, tangy sweet grapefruit and cinnamon spice create a superb introduction that marries old with new! Tea is also included but I think the pot has been spiked! hmm?
Its not until you live through the opening and get settled that you realise Amber Nude is in fact from a totally different gene pool to the Youth Dew mile trailing sillage monster. Clove-ish Red Carnation and narcotic Jasmine replace orchid, lilly of the valley and cassia (earthy, spicy, aromatic cinnamon). To my nose the tweaking of Youth Dew Amber Nude has added beautiful softness that was absent in the original, giving it modern refinement. Where there once was hefty tumbler of pure malt whisky now sits black rose and rich banana toned ylang ylang that harmonise with the floral bouquet. Compliments guaranteed!
Amber Nude’s dries down to base notes sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver and ‘the concentration has been halved’ (quote) according to Ford. Genius if you ask me. I felt Youth Dew was sometimes too much of a good thing. Absolutely a iconic fragrance I wanted to wear out of love, respect and honour but it just demanded too much attention. And then there’s that classic association, I won’t even breath it. Here is a fact Perfume Junkies! Youth Dew’s reputation spans almost 60 years. Its clear we have another Queen celebrating a Diamond Jubilee. Tom Ford lastly adds a dark chocolate accord that recalls bitter dark squares of 80% cocoa. A noticeable skin scent that lingers on the skin up to 10 hours after the first spritz.
Did I mention Youth Dew Amber Nude is sexy as hell. I have decided the Amber Nude experience is the best of Youth Dew with a Tom Ford frock and accessories to match. Vintage Retro is now runway ready.