Oud Luban by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2012

Hey Gang,

Mandy Aftel, of Aftelier Perfumes, is one of our favourite Independent perfumers here at APJ. She is American small batch perfumery at its finest. Not only is she a great perfumer but also writes books about fragrance creation, notes and their many sources, chemistry, uses and functions (Essence and Alchemy) and another on its way soon. There is also a book on living your life well (The Story Of Your Life). On top of all this through my interactions and the general interactions of everyone I’ve spoken to Mandy Aftel is a great girl, filled with the joy of life.

Oud Luban by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2012

Oud Luban Extrait Aftelier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Elemi resin, orange, blood orange, olibanum
Base: Agarwood (oud), opoponax, benzoin, patchouli, resins

The opening of resinous citrus is intense and vegetal, the sweetest oudh I’ve yet smelled and very much like putting your nose into citrus pith after eating the meat near a freshly turned, healthy compost heat and a waxy flavourless lip balm feeling of both softness and being caged. I also get a grated carrot, fresh, vegetable but sweet scent that is always unexpected but inviting.


I am spared  almost any barnyard, poo or band aid, but now I’ve thought band aid I do get a little of it. It’s a hint and may be because I thought it as it’s never featured in previous wearings. Oud Luban is like an Oudh Lite. It’s pretty, wearable and sensual. I am reminded of the smell of Art Galleries, airy, light, dusty and waxed. The resins offer a sweetness that is also earthy but earthy is a bad analogy, Sky/Earth, tree-ish. But a tree still alive and growing. Oud Luban is the scent of the freedom of climbing trees, and scrub and bushland. Humanity there is too as Oud Lubin becomes softer, warmer, I am a spicy skinned sensual adventurer. Towards dry down my skin smells a bit boat-ish, that salty sweet smell of woods/resins/leather/saltwater but the one constant through the whole crazy ride of Oud Luban Extrait is how sexy it lets me feel. The end is not certain as Oud Luban sinks gently into my skin and I am sure it’s not all gone after 5 hours and a swim, but maybe I do smell this good.

Oud Luban Extrait Aftelier iyoed DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

Further reading: SmellyThoughts and The Alembicated Genie
Aftelier Perfumes has 3 extrait sizes $6/.25ml sample, $55/2ml mini, $195/7.5ml

What are your favourite Independent fragrances? Do you wear any of Mandy Aftel’s creations? Are there some I should seek out?
See you tomorrow,

Portia x

12 thoughts on “Oud Luban by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2012

  1. Thank you Portia for capturing my feelings so well in this beautiful piece about Oud Luban! I wanted to “sheer out” the powerful oud that I have so it could meet the frankincense on its own terms (if you know what I mean). And thank you for weaving in my life as a writer. I hope your Holidays are filled with joy & splendor!
    xo Mandy


    • Tango? By Aftelier? How has this passed me by? Or has it? I seem to remember but I think I need to revisit….
      What is it like for you?
      Portia xx


  2. Hi Portia,
    Merry Christmas week! I’ve tried Cuir de Gardenia and Shiso. Delicious, gorgeous, sensuous. The Shiso is my kinda thang with it’s whirling dance of herbal and spice. The Cuir de Gardenia is monumental. It immediately reminded me of Joy, because of the magnitude of the fragrance. I think it’s a new classic. I can’t wait to try all her fragrances and take her classes in the New Year!
    Cheers, Jackie


  3. Oh, Portia, there’s so much to say about Mandy Aftel’s work! Your description of Oud Luban is perfect. Really, it’s one of the softest, even sweetest “Ouds” I’ve tried. It’s just perfect on its own, but it can also be layered with some of her other creations such as Ancient Resins oil or the Roses body oil.

    My very favorite Aftelier creation is Secret Garden. It’s unbearably beautiful. I thank Freddie over at Smelly Thoughts for my meeting this one. I also love Wild Roses (which isn’t all about roses…so much more!)

    Have you tried the oils? I love layering them together. I also love layering Secret Garden with a bit of the Rose oil underneath. My next Aftelier adventure – Essence & Alchemy.

    Thanks for a lovely write-up of Oud Luban. xo Amy


    • Amy,
      I love meeting other Aftelier fans. As yet I’ve not tried Secret Garden. The list isn’t so long of her frags but I’ve only spent any time with 6 of them, maybe 7. One day I hope to go to Mandy’s studio and meet her, grill her, enjoy her great knowledge and company. So far just a dream.
      Wild roses is so much more than roses but my love for it is because it feels like Mandy has gathered EVERY ROSE, from the waxy, almost scentless ones all the way up to the incredibly fragrant Wise Portia, also including the lemon-ish, boozy, spicy, soapy and bitter ones. The snap of stem and torn leaf and even a smidge of the earth and compost used. MMMMM
      Yet to try any of Mandy’s oils or other stuff, one day.
      Portia xx


  4. You must try Mandy’s Cepes & Tuberose, if you haven’t done so already. It is a creamy and earthy tuberose to die for. Let me tell you! So good!


    • Cepes & Turberose is one that I have in parfum form. Such a wonderful fragrance, you are right. I don’t think I’ve reviewed it yet either.
      Thanks for the reminder.
      Portia xx


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s