Hi there APJ,
I tried Neroli Outrenoir when it was first released while Jin and I were in the Champs Elysees flagship store. I was totally overwhelmed by the venue and underwhelmed by the scent and really haven’t given it another thought. Recently though I bought a 10ml decant in a split. To be honest I don’t remember putting my name down for it. You know that late night cyber crawl after a couple of cuppas and some junk food? Yeah. So it arrived in my latest package and I’ve worn it a couple of times already.
It’s so much more interesting than I remember
Neroli Outrenoir by Guerlain 2016
Neroli Outrenoir by Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, petitgrain, grapefruit, lemon, tangerine
Heart: Orange blossom, tea, smoke, earthy notes, neroli
Base: Ambrette (musk mallow), oakmoss, myrrh, benzoin, vanilla
Bitter citrus opening, like you’ve bitten the zest and leaf. Neroli Outrenoir is sharp and wet but quickly dries as a waft of clean, creamy orange blossom and the dry, throat parching ache of tea leaves undercuts the tart and cream. I think it’s the ambrette but it gives me a rice cooker steam vibe and mixed with the other accords creates something so unusual. Is that the wet cardboard, earthy hint of iris?
It’s like a kaleidoscope of parts, all moving in different directions and creating beautiful patterns that don’t always relate to the ingredients. A scent of itself that makes my mind wander in pictures. Unmade leather sheets, afternoon sunshiny days, slightly musty wardrobes, anticipating dinner, freshly washed sheets on the bed, opening damp cardboard boxes and packing brand new ones with tissue paper and sellotape. Some breathiness emerges at times and opening old wooden cabinets in antique stores too.
Particularly interesting to me is that the smoke takes forever to arrive on my skin and is basically the very end note left with a hint of resinous amber. There are moments of recognition of L’Artisan’s Tea for Two, the birchy smoke and tea.
So many pieces to the Neroli Outrenoir puzzle and every wear slightly different. My only wish that it be half again as potent with double the throw.
Have you ever done a full 180 degree turn on a perfume?