Neroli Outrenoir by Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk for Guerlain 2016

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Portia

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Hi there APJ,

I tried Neroli Outrenoir when it was first released while Jin and I were in the Champs Elysees flagship store. I was totally overwhelmed by the venue and underwhelmed by the scent and really haven’t given it another thought. Recently though I bought a 10ml decant in a split. To be honest I don’t remember putting my name down for it. You know that late night cyber crawl after a couple of cuppas and some junk food? Yeah. So it arrived in my latest package and I’ve worn it a couple of times already.

It’s so much more interesting than I remember

Neroli Outrenoir by Guerlain 2016

Neroli Outrenoir by Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk

Neroli Outrenoir Guerlain FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, petitgrain, grapefruit, lemon, tangerine
Heart: Orange blossom, tea, smoke, earthy notes, neroli
Base: Ambrette (musk mallow), oakmoss, myrrh, benzoin, vanilla

Bitter citrus opening, like you’ve bitten the zest and leaf. Neroli Outrenoir is sharp and wet but quickly dries as a waft of clean, creamy orange blossom and the dry, throat parching ache of tea leaves undercuts the tart and cream. I think it’s the ambrette but it gives me a rice cooker steam vibe and mixed with the other accords creates something so unusual. Is that the wet cardboard, earthy hint of iris?

It’s like a kaleidoscope of parts, all moving in different directions and creating beautiful patterns that don’t always relate to the ingredients. A scent of itself that makes my mind wander in pictures. Unmade leather sheets, afternoon sunshiny days, slightly musty wardrobes, anticipating dinner, freshly washed sheets on the bed, opening damp cardboard boxes and packing brand new ones with tissue paper and sellotape. Some breathiness emerges at times and opening old wooden cabinets in antique stores too.

Neroli Outrenoir by Guerlain Kaleidoscope MaxPixelPDI

Particularly interesting to me is that the smoke takes forever to arrive on my skin and is basically the very end note left with a hint of resinous amber. There are moments of recognition of L’Artisan’s Tea for Two, the birchy smoke and tea.

So many pieces to the Neroli Outrenoir puzzle and every wear slightly different. My only wish that it be half again as potent with double the throw.

Neroli Outrenoir by Guerlain Down_on_his_luck Frederick McCubbin WikiMediaWikiMedia

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Fragrance Daly
Larger department stores and Guerlain stand alone stores

Have you ever done a full 180 degree turn on a perfume?
Portia xx

11 thoughts on “Neroli Outrenoir by Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk for Guerlain 2016

  1. Neroli Outrenoir sounds lovely. My primary fragrant turnaround has been with a note- patchouli. Angel is an abomination on my skin and I had decided that it was the patchouli that was making it so horrible for me. So I avoided anything patch- forward. Of course, our perceptions change and I have been finding the note much more wearable on my skin. (Although it depends on the fragrance – I tried the Tauerville Patch Flash and immediately sent my sample to someone else!). I do keep a vial of Angel around and sadly – it’s still terrible! Something in that combination of notes just doesn’t work for me.

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    • Hi there MMKinPA,
      Have you tried the Serge Lutens Borneo 1834? It’s a wonderful patchouli take, not like modern patchoulis at all.
      Portia xx

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  2. The composition sounds interesting but alas, ambrette tends to underperform on me, it indeed gives that wet carboard impression.

    I’ve had a few heel-face turns, the most important one being Shalimar. I strongly disliked it when I first tried it in 2006 but now it’s one of my most favourite perfumes. True love 🙂

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    • Hey Diana,
      My mate Scott has a similar problem with iris, it ALWAYS smells like dough on him. Bummer.

      YAY for Shalimar though, my favourite.
      Portia xx

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  3. There you are, Portia! I missed you all week!

    I know this fragrance has gotten a lot of love from fellow perfumistas but I haven’t tried it yet. I really like ambrette in essential oil formulation so I would probably like this one.

    Absolute Pour Le Soir comes to mind in terms of coming around to loving. I did not hate it when I first tried it but it smelled of dirty panties to me so I did not think I could wear it outside of the house. My first sampling was in the cold weather. But then on a whim I retried it in the summer and got honey and resins and wore it so often that I drained my decant. Same with Saffron Troublant. Tried it five years ago and forgot I tried it until my best friend sent me a 15ml decant and I remembered having once tried it and not being particularly fond of it. This time around loved it and once again drained the bottle. I think I am coming around to cumin as a note as I am pretty sure it is in both of these fragrances.

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    • Heya CM,
      Nice to see you too.
      If the ambrett works for you then I think it will definitely be a winner for you.
      CUMIN! Love it. Have you tried the modern Femme by Rochas, they replaced animalics with cumin. Instead of creature it’s a happy sweat.
      Portia xx

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      • No I haven’t tried Femme (yet!). Will keep my eyes open. years ago I wore Gucci (the brown juice in the chunky glass bottle)…that also had cumin in it and surprisingly I rather liked it.

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  4. I am rarely drawn to these in this series. Maybe it is the price that warns me off, or the heavy vanilla/tonka in a few. Whatever it is, I do need to try this. It may be the one to get my attention.

    2017 was a turnabout in many ways, scent wise. I have some sweet, almost gourmand perfumes! Like, WHAT??! And I also own Coco Mademoiselle. Big fat NO WAY, JOSE oldies made it my way too. Many of them cheap ones, such as Exclamation!

    It was also a time to put some beloveds away. Things I cannot find enjoyment in any more. Feminite du Bois, Safari and Tresor are from another time.

    2018 is about refining my nose and culling my collection. I’m not sure I’ll be selling, but the surplus will be stored. I’d rather have 50 I adore than many I rarely wear.

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