Scent With Love: CHANEL No.22

Hi there APJ,

My mate Rose M sent me a package a while ago. It got lost in a drawer during a clean up and since we have been organising the house for Open Houses a bunch of forgotten magic has turned up. What is in the package? Modern & Vintage CHANEL No.22 EdT and some Vintage CHANEL No.22 parfum. OH MY! You may remember I discovered CHANEL No.22 in Paris earlier this year with Michael. Rose M thought I should get some historical juice on my skin and be able to compare, I’ll do my best but this wonky old nose will probably just smell the same thing at different strengths…..

 CHANEL No.22 by Ernest Beaux for CHANEL 1922

Chanel No 22 Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica 

Fragrantica  gives these featured accords:
Top: Lily-of-the-valley, neroli, aldehydes
Heart: Oriental jasmine, rose, Comoro island ylang-ylang
Base: Haiti vetiver, Bourbon vanilla

OK, so the vintage EdT comes out sweeter and more aldehydic. Current EdT has a fresh, nutty and much cooler vibe than the vintage. Vintage smells animal and sensual while the modern has a metallic edge, a little reminiscent of No. 19. As the top notes blow off the two become more alike and though still different they coulod be the same fragrance family now. Vintage seems smoother and warmer, like the ultimate softness of room temperature ivory against your skin and still the current is cooler, more transparent like cool crystal.

CHANEL No.22 EdT Ivory Carving Cliff FlickrPhoto stolen Flickr

CHANEL No.22 EdT Crystal Bowl Mauricio Gouvea FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Suddenly, at about the 20-30 minute mark it’s like they both come into clear focus and smell nearly exactly the same, there are differences but only the difference that a wear on different days woulds NEVER tell apart. It’s like you are wearing the same fragrance but in different weather or after you’ve used a different body wash in the shower. Vintage lasts for hours longer in the heart section and when modern has almost completely disappeared I can still smell glorious aldehydic bouquet pumping its lavish tune from the vintage. Dry down is warm and subtly earthy but through CHANEL No. 22s life it never loses that aldehydic magic.

They are both incredible and I am going to grab some of the current EdT and Parfum. The die is cast.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Perfume Posse
You can try or buy CHANEL No. 22 at any of the stand alone CHANEL stores or a very few department stores.
Surrender To Chance has CHANEL No. 22 samples starting at $4/ml and Extrait at $8/ml

Thank You Rose M. I have enjoyed this throw down immensely and you have ultimately made me a complete slave to CHANEL No.22 EdT.

Portia xx

 

 

 

 

Arlesienne by L`Occitane en Provence 2014

Hey Hey APJ Family,

As you may know one of my girlfriends here in Australia works for L`Occitane en Provence. well this month she has sent me a great set. I gave the hand cream to another girlfriend and she was most impressed by the scent and the softening properties, Anna Maria wore the hand cream for a week to make sure and was very pleasantly surprised with the results.

Arlesienne by L`Occitane en Provence 2014

Arlesienne L`Occitane en Provence FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, pepper, saffron flower
Heart: Grasse rose, lily of the valley
Base: Violet, sandalwood, blonde woods, tonka bean

Something light, fresh and breezy. A lovely wash of fragrance in which the singular notes don’t make huge statements but are a very harmonious and gentle waft. I can imagine Arlesienne being the spritz and go daywear for sunshine days, through spring to autumn. While Arlesienne does not smell wildly expensive or extravagant it does have a sheer, shimmering and youthful zing that will put a spring in your step and a smile on your face.

From L’Occitane Press release: The fragrance is inspired by the Venus of Arles, a Roman statue discovered in 1651 and everything that it represents—the woman of Provence, the ideal of female beauty and the muse of artists such as Van Gogh, Picasso, Léo Lele, Mistral, Bizet, Christian Lacroix and many others.

AllSteele giveaway 1Photo Stolen AllSteele

Arlesienne by L`Occitane en Provence GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 Winner who will get:

1 x Arlesienne by L`Occitane 250ml Shower Gel
1 x Arlesienne by L`Occitane 75ml Body Oil
1 x Arlesienne by L`Occitane 75ml Eau de Toilette
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell me a favourite soft & fresh fragrance in your collection and why.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: APJ Arlesienne by L`Occitane GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-3ap  

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 21st September 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 25th September 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

Louis Vuitton Celebrating Monogram Collaboration Video

Hey Fashionistas,

Louis Vuitton has been doing some collaborating and I wanted to show you this fun 1 minute Louis Vuitton Celebrating Monogram Collaboration Video. Asking some super great designers, artists and innovators to take their monogram and make something entirely special and new. I think you’ll be suprised with some, desperately want others and be impressed by the sometimes discrete, sometimes overt, pushing of boundaries.

Enjoy,

Portia xx

Twisted Box Frank Gehry Louis VuittonPhoto Stolen Louis Vuitton

From Vuitton: 2014, Six Iconoclasts, One Icon: Christian Louboutin, Cindy Sherman, Frank Gehry, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Newson, and Rei Kawakubo take inspiration from the icononic Louis Vuitton Monogram.

Louis Vuitton Celebrating Monogram

Layering: Tocca Florence + With Love by Hilary Duff

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Post by Erica Golding

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Layering fragrances is something that I rarely do. I wholeheartedly appreciate that many people delight in the alchemy of mix and match, and personalize their aura by combining two or more scents. According to my personal style, I typically just enjoy a complete fragrance on its own as it was designed, rather than partake in creative experimentation.

I have a few exceptions to this preference, and my ultimate favorite fragrance combination is the insanely breathtaking duet that I am sharing with you today.

Years ago, in college, I was on my way out to party on a Saturday night. I went to my friends’ dorm to pick up my foxy lady crew, and met their neighbor for the first time. She was a vision of pure glamour – glossy blonde mane, perfectly bronzed smooth skin, and piercing clear eyes. She was decked out in a little black dress and heels. (I’m pretty sure I was in jeans and a hoodie, hippie scrub that I was.)

Her fragrance froze me where I stood. Already a perfume junkie, I had no shame in introducing myself by exclaiming: “What perfume are you wearing?!” nShe grinned, beckoned me to follow, and floated into her room. There, she pulled two gorgeous bottles out of a drawer, and offered to spray them on me (“Hell yes, please!”). She stressed that they simply had to be worn together, and that it was pure love potion. “Use with caution!”

Damn right.

Layering: Tocca Florence + With Love by Hilary Duff

Florence Tocca FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Grapefruit leaf, bergamot, pear, apple
Heart: Violet leaf, iris, gardenia, jasmine, tuberose
Base: Musk, white woods

With Love Hilary Duff FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives the following notes:
Top: Spices, mango(steen)
Heart: Cocobolo, mango blossom
Base: Amber, musk.

Tocca Florence and With Love by Hilary Duff are great fragrances on their own, each boasting a level of appeal that far exceeds their status as department-store perfumes. Tocca is an unabashedly intense white floral focusing on creamy tuberose, delightfully brightened by a hint of crisp apple and pear. With Love is a symphonious oriental scent featuring cocobolo (which reminds me of sandalwood), vanilla amber, and mango.

Layering Tropical Sunrise Bill McChesney FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Put them together, and it is hard to describe what happens next. Imagine a tropical sunrise, a volcano exploding, a star going supernova – that’s what happens to my soul when these fragrances marry on my skin. They can’t be separated into their original compositions once they join together. The aroma completely changes as each perfume loses itself in the other, fusing seamlessly and morphing into a singular scent experience. The overall impression is simply enchanting, featuring tender white flowers hovering over a musky amber base with tasteful, subtle accents of fruit and spice.

Florence and With LovePhoto Donated Erica

Please try this if you enjoy tuberose and oriental perfumes. On paper, you may be skeptical about how in the world they could ever work together as one, but I can assure you: It is pure love potion. Use with caution.

Beauty Habit has Tocca Florence 50ml/$68
FragranceX has With Love by Hilary Duff 30ml/$15

Warm wishes for your beautifully fragrant day,
Erica

Tom Ford Noir 2012

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Post by ElizaD

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Tom Ford Noir 2012

Laquer, Pepper, roses, spice, iris, and sweet oranges. Tobacco perhaps? Interesting.

These were my thoughts as I stood in the Sephora sniffing my arm after spritzing Tom Ford’s Noir. The ladies in the Sephora always frown when they see me coming. I SNIFF my perfume. I don’t gently waft the tester under my nose, I spray forcefully and inhale. And I ask for samples! They’re limiting me to two these days. No matter, I am quickly making my way through the whole line of Sephora-approved fragrances at my local outlet. I’m almost done.

Noir Tom Ford Portlandbridges WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

But this was a store in Portland, with many more choices, and saleswomen who were not on to me. I was trying to be discreet, but when you are a head taller and twice as old as almost everyone else in the store, it’s challenging.

Anyway, back to the fragrance. This one gave me pause. With a name like Noir I expected something much more intense. Some oud perhaps, or liquor notes: something thick and viscuous. This was beautiful. It opened with a sparkle of pink pepper and herbs, quickly followed by a sweet laquer note, but quickly settled to a lovely floral bouquet. Powdery with a little spice. Soft and graceful. I could even detect a note of baby shampoo. It reminded me of Jean Charles Broussea’s Ombre Rose. Like the lovely Margaux, who reviewed Noir exactly a year ago, I was intrigued.

Noir Tom Ford FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Italian bergamot, verbena, caraway, baie rose (pink pepper), violet flower
Heart: Black pepper, nutmeg, Tuscan Iris resin, Egyptian Geranium, Bulgarian Rose, Clary Sage
Base: Opoponax, amber, Indonesian patchouli, vetiver, civet, vanilla

So imagine my double surprise when I returned home with my sample and pulled up the information on Fragrantica. A men’s fragrance? Because it has violets and vetiver and verbena? Two months ago I suggested that Essence Aromatique might be suited for a man, and now I seem to be swooning over a men’s fragrance. Hmmm, perhaps after a couple of years my tastes are starting to expand.

Noir Tom Ford Sephora MyNamesAxel FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

It was in the women’s section. I swear.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Bois de Jasmin
FragranceNet has 50ml/$95 before discount
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

So tell me, APJers, where do you find fragrances to try locally? Are you lucky enough to have sympathetic salespeople at your local stores, or do you have to travel to satisfy your senses? I think I need a roadtrip, STAT!

Juste un Reve EDT by Parfume de Nicolai 1996

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Here is a little fact for you before we start smelling – Parfums de Nicolai has a link back to Guerlain!! Patricia de Nicolai, the founder is actually a descendant of Pierre Guerlain, the brother of Jaques Guerlain. The brand started in 1989. I found a store in Potts Point in Sydney who sell their candles, not fragrances – Its called Macleay on Manning – check them out when you see them – I would say they are smallish and of the higher end price, bur fragrances are to die for, and at a great strength.

Ok so back to the job at hand:

Juste un rêve by Parfums de Nicolaï 1996

Juste un rêve by Patricia de Nicolaï

Juste un rêve Parfums de Nicolai FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Coconut, apricot
Heart: Jasmine absolute, tuberose absolute
Base: Sandalwood, vanilla

Well I get tuberose, more tuberose, maybe some other flowers and some vanilla marshmallow powder on initial whiff. Something reminds me of Cacherel’s Eden, I have no idea why. Powder? A dryness? Also something fruity, possibly apricot, dried perhaps, or just the skin of the fruit. Sweet. Jasmine too. Underneath some sandalwood. Vanilla starts to pump in strong powder wafts, as the tuberose takes a step backwards.

Juste un rêve Parfums de Nicolai Ballerinas_dancing Brisbane 1942 WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

I imagine a little bunch of ballerinas in fluffy tutus jumping about, taking it in turns to puff their fluffy, flirty notes towards me. Tuberose: Double Puff! Vanilla: Puff Puff!! Etc. Suddenly 30 mins on and it’s creamier with sandalwood. Tuberose/jasmine/vanilla notes are now in unison, less powdery, more leveled with creamed sandalwood and some hints at apricot fruit skin. SO much tropical floral, but surrounded by a dry hot breeze. I can smell an almost fatty sweet polynesian manoi-type smell. (not sure if you’ve tried the elemis manoi and frangipani body oil in your travels? Its quite yummy) Things have got quite tropical at this stage. Getting warmer! I wish to try it in the hottest summer months, as it reminds me of that feeling of lying in the sun, on holidays deeply comatosed by the suns rays, melting, unable to read or move at all.

Lens Flare at Borobudur Stairs Kala ArchesPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

It remains clean and yet somehow edgy for the whole of the day, and all the way into the evening. Is it that Tuberose note? Kind of sharp within a haze. Maybe like someone is trying to wake us from our tropical slumber, or the cold icy pool/tide starting to nip at our toes. A cube of ice popped into our bikini bottoms by some “hilarious” friend?

In the morning some vanilla and of course tropical floral reminants. It’s pretty enough that I could wear it, I do find it very strong and lasting power of all day and night, really. I read about the coconut notes, but must say I never did get them – to me it’s more manoi. I’m sure lovers of Mahora and it’s tropical floral overdose would love this one. It is “just a dream” a heady heated, tropical, holiday of a dream.

Juste un rêve Parfums de Nicolai  Sunbaker max dupain WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin
Parfum1 has $130/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Ainslie Walker x

Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice by Guerlain 2001

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Post by Tina G

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Winter Delice is the secret door at the back of the cupboard from the The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. A few squirts and I’ve been instantly transported into a frosty European December day, walking through a high mountain forest with a crystal blue sky above and dry crisp snow crunching under my boots.

Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice by Guerlain

Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Fir
Heart: Pine, resin
Base: Opoponax, vanille, sugar

The whole opening of Winter Delice is as I’ve just brushed up against a forest pine tree, cupped a bunch of needles to my nose for a sniff, and got a bit of sticky sap on my fingers from my efforts. The pine and fir notes are fresh, bright, and uplifting. The presence of a touch of lemon may or may not be an aspect of the pine. A clear rich resin comes through after about 15 minutes when the fragrance has warmed on my skin. I’m enjoying it sooooo much I find myself respritzing during the first hour to reinvigorate & revive the experience.

Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice Guerlain Snow Pines Daniel FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Given a bit more time, the sticky piney-ness settles into an aura of dry amber and resin. There is a hint of an odd metallic note which I quite like, but quickly passes. The amber/resin combination lasts for about 2 hours, at which time I give a small disappointed sigh, as I think that’s the end of it. Just a standard amber dry down – what a shame when I was enjoying it so much.

Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice Guerlain Almond Cake PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

But wait! A little later I’m curled up doing some reading, and there is a wonderful aroma of sweet sugared almonds with a hint of vanilla, waiting shyly and oh-so-patiently to be noticed. You cheeky little fragrance! Withholding this intoxicatingly comforting skin scent for a last surprise. I’m so glad I didn’t write it off at the amber stage and miss this altogether. The vanilla sweetness is very yummy and cuddly and I find myself now snuggled down again, smiling while reading with my nose pressed firmly against my wrist.

So for the first time in a while, I’ve worn a fragrance three days in a row. Winter Delice is wonderful, but I feel like I’m running out of time to wear it as the days become progressively warmer coming into spring, perfect for Northern Hemisphere wear right now though. I do think it is a cool weather experience, but I’ll give it a run in summer to see how it fares – the pine may just be refreshing instead of cloying, who knows.

Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice Guerlain wildflowers-spring WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Olfactory Obsessed
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

I will be trying out more of the Aqua Allegoria series, but I’d be interested in some honest opinions – have you tried any of this range? What did you like? What didn’t work for you?

Tina G

Black Opium by YSL Mini Movie

Hey there APJ Crew,

Black Opium is here, masterminded by Nathalie Lorson, Marie Salamagne, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc and centred around the smell of coffee beans. Sounds marvelous, so good that I know I’ll be disappointed. The mini movie is wonderful though and stars British model Edie Campbell, shot by Daniel Wolfe.

Black Opium Yves Saint Laurent FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pear, orange blossom, pink pepper
Heart: Jasmine, coffeeBase: Vanilla, patchouli, cedar

BLACK OPIUM BY YVES SAINT LAURENT

BLACK OPIUM – THE NEW WOMEN FRAGRANCE

Open House

Hiya APJ,

We have had some problems with our Australian Perfume Junkies host this week and the whole shebang has put me into a spin. Add to that our house is on the market and we are having work done on the pool and Open Houses. CER AY ZEE.

Here are some pics of our home. It has been a sensational family home and I have loved it with all my heart. It’s a 1960s T shaped ranch house and many of the features are original. We have kept it as true to its heritage as we could while maintaining functionability.
Portia xx

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Pitti Fragranze 12 + Idiosyncratic Perfume Behaviour

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Pitti Fragranze 12

Hello Fabulous APJ readers.

I am going to Florence on Thursday to attend the Pitti Fragranze 12. This is the international perfume fair event that brings the best, and perhaps not the best, in artistic perfumery to the beautiful city of Florence. New fragrances will be launched, older ones revisited. To say I am excited would be an understatement. I have and Australian Perfume Junkies Press Pass. Honoured.

Pitti Fragranze 12 VALCQPhoto Donated Val

I look forward to the opportunity of trying new fragrances and mingling with perfume folk. I have also attended bike shows, both in the US and in Europe. Which has nothing to do with perfume. Or does it? My husband is a bike freak and I a perfumista. But does that mean that every bike or every perfume at these shows is good? It does not. One has to search for what is best for you and THAT is the thrill of attending. We go well informed but eyes open for something to blow our minds. The older I get the less mind I have left to blow. 🙂

ValCQ Lavender Pitti CookiesVal the Cookie Queen’s X Special batch of Lavender Pitti Shortbread

FULL MONTY WORTHY?

Idiosyncratic Perfume Behaviour

The Full Monty (1997) Photo Stolen IMDb (any problems tell us)

I try many fragrances but wear only a small selection. Trying means spraying wrists, elbow crooks, you know how it goes. Walking round with your nose surgically attached to your wrist kind of thing. Wearing means going The Fully Monty and being comfortable with it. And the truth of the matter is I am scared to death to do that with most frags. I was talking to Portia the other day and he was surprised when I told him that I only wear seven or eight perfumes. The rest are just wafting from my wrist, waiting to see if they make the grade. I know, I know perfume is subjective. I am way to scared to grab a scent and spritz with wild abandon. I own very few full bottles comparatively speaking. Like most of us I have a fair number of decants. This fear of going the whole nine yards does nothing at all to curb my perfume obsession, but I am überpicky. Mention woody notes and I´m gone ……..

FMW this year included:

All .vero.profumo. fragrances in all forms
Chanel. Cuir de Russie and Bois de Iles – Edt and Extrait, Coromandel, 31 Rue Cambon
Malle. Eau de Magnolia
Serge Lutens. Boxeuses, Rose de Nuit, Cuir Mauresque
En Voyage. Zelda
Amouage. Opus III, Beloved, Ubar

I have a list of at least 25 to check out in Florence. I reckon, law of averages, there might be a FMW bottle amongst them?

So dear readers, do you go the whole caboodle with everything, the whole shebang, no fear involved regardless? I would be very interested
to know.

I will report back.

Ciao
CQ