L`Eau De Monteil by Germaine Monteil 1995

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Post by Azar

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Hello APJ,

In early December one of my young piano students wanted to try playing the Christmas classic “Sleigh Ride” by Leroy Anderson. I rummaged through my semi-organized music library for an easy version but all I came up with was an old collection of Anderson’s own piano arrangements. The student took one look at “Sleigh Ride” and immediately decided it wasn’t for her. (She obviously was not yet convinced by my mantra “Fear No Musical Score”.) We looked at the other pieces in the collection and when I played a little bit of “Forgotten Dreams” (1954) we both knew we had found a good match.

Later that evening I looked at the music again. Every piece seemed to be a distillation of a memory. As I played “Forgotten Dreams” I found myself as a child in the 1950s, sitting in front of an old radio, listening to Leroy Anderson’s music. A sudden “fast forward” brought me to the mid 1990s when several of my piano students were learning to play the same music. With these ’90s musical memories came a recollection of fragrances I’d worn at the time. I recalled not only the scents but also the bottles, the boxes and where I had purchased them. While playing “Forgotten Dreams” one fragrance in particular came to mind:

L`Eau De Monteil by Germaine Monteil 1995

Forgotten Dreams

L`Eau De Monteil Germaine Monteil FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Spices, orange blossom, sea notes, jasmine, powdery notes

Most perfume related sites and blogs list the creation of L’Eau de Monteil as either 1995 or 1996. I could swear I’d purchased a bottle a couple of years earlier than that. I couldn’t find any information on the perfumer who actually created the scent. The designer Germaine Monteil died in 1987. (I’ll be telling her story and reviewing more of her fragrances in an up-coming post).

Once again I went rummaging around, but this time in my even less organized perfume storage. I discovered my stash of L’Eau de Monteil, including three full 15 ml pure perfumes, one partially used 50 ml EDP and one full 100 ml spray still sealed in the box. It seems that L’Eau de Monteil had been a favorite!I picked up the used EDP and gave myself a generous blast and then dabbed on some pure perfume for good measure.

L`Eau De Monteil Germaine Monteil Azar#3

Again I found myself time traveling, but not to the 1990s, as I would have expected, but to my childhood in Florida and to a dark and eerily quiet, semi-tropical garden. I found myself crossing a bridge over a pond (or was it a stream?) the banks crowded with plants that I called “elephant ears” (.). The air was thick with the odors of moving water, jasmine, wet earth and sweet rotting leaves. The smell was at once fresh and spicy, earthy and very aquatic. This combination of scents was unique to this particular garden in 1957. I did not encounter the same fragrance again until I discovered L’Eau de Monteil sometime in the mid 90s and rediscovered it in late 2013, thanks to the music of Leroy Anderson.

L`Eau De Monteil Germaine Monteil Azar#2

Thousands of fragrances and pieces of music are created every year. It is inevitable that most of these and the dreams that inspired them will be lost or forgotten. That being said, it is wonderful and strange how one memory leads to another and yet another. I am forever amazed how music and fragrance can “fold” time and space (a memory from the sci-fi classic “Dune”) and return us to events and places of long ago to remember and relive our “Forgotten Dreams”.

Ebay and Amazon seem to be the only places left to find L`Eau De Monteil, you can still grab a BNIC 100ml for under $100

L`Eau De Monteil Germaine Monteil Azar#1

L`Eau De Monteil GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have TWO winners:

Who will each receive:
1 x 2ml decant of Germaine Monteil L’Eau de Monteil
1 x 2ml decant of a “mystery” fragrance
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

AND

Do you have a perfume memory that you would like to share or a forgotten moment that came to life because of music or scent? Please leave comment to be eligible for today’s give-away

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie L’Eau de Montiel GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2ou #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 16th January 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org or some other more fun way at the discretion of Azar, our host for this giveaway
The winners will have till Sunday 19th January 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Photos Taken by Azar unless otherwise stated.

Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal for Annick Goutal 2011

Hiya all you lovers of fine fragrance,

Annick Goutal has been covered a lot on APJ, see under the sign off for other APJ reviews, life story and stuff about this extraordinary woman and her daughter who now carries on the Annick Goutal tradition, and has done under a few owners. It must be hard to work under such conditions and try to keep a multinational brand as true as possible to your beloved mother’s vision, which started out so small, French and independent.

Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille EdT by Annick Goutal 2011

Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal

Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille Annick Goutal fragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in the text:
Top:
Indonesian patchouli, plum
Heart: iris, powder, violet, heliotrope
Base: patchouli

Plum and patchouli? Who’d have thought it would smell this good? Plush and plumped over a bed of the fluffiest and most powdery accords ever, I mean EVAH! Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille is a beautiful modern perfume that nods heartily to history and gives us a full and throaty sensuality while remaining perfectly composed and restrained. Both innocent and alluring, like a girl/woman of a past era on the threshold of knowing. Still coltish but blossomed and ripe. Do you remember the early Julia Roberts, young Katherine Hepburn or even Cameron Diaz? They had a fresh exuberance that was self possessed, sensual and completely at ease. Being beautiful and unusual can sometimes give people an ease that even genius or the most moneyed can never attain. James Franco has it a little bit too and Brad Pitt fair oozed it. This is a fragrance for people who want to smell like that

Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille Goutal Julia roberrts Alifia♥  FlickrPhoto Stolen Alifia♥  Flickr

What do I smell exactly? A clean patchouli with no dust or rasp, plum that is ripe but unsweet in the modern sense of sweet in perfumery, green and rooty iris/heliotrope/violet powder (I find it hard to distinguish the difference and they all add up to one scent) and down the back I hardly even notice the patchouli though I know it’s there, I get more resinous sweetness than I expect from patchouli.

Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille will have you softly fragrant with a low sillage, it’s nowhere near a skin scent but it won’t intrude on your work colleagues or dinner either. Should someone be lucky enough to come in for a hug then they will receive a fragrant reward.

Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille Goutal plum WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

For a Goutal EdT I get about average fragrant life of 3-4 hours. Apparently the EdP survives longer but I like the short ride with Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille so I can wear something else after lunch or before going out. I didn’t mention how much I love the plum coloured bottle and will be4 greatly saddened by the regimentation of bottles that has been put into effect by Pacific Amore. GRRRR! At least we will be able to tell vintage at a glance.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Candy Perfume Boy
FragranceNet has $75/100ml before coupon
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Loads of love to you and yours,
Portia xx

Annick Goutal (1948-99) on APJ before. We have done days of:
Annick Goutal Biography,
Eau de Sud/Songes/Mandragore,
Eau d”Hadrien/Eau de Camille/Ce Soir Ou Jamais,
Passion/Un Matin d’Orage/Ambre Fetiche,
Mandragore Pourpe,
Songes,
Grand Amour,
Rose Splendide,

Nuit Etoilée and
Duel

 

 

L’Eau Par Kenzo Wild by Aurélien Guichard for Kenzo 2011

Hi All,

You may remember the very lovely Emma Kate who wrote for APJ for a while and did a bunch of LIVE Video Sniffs with me. She moved to another Australian city for work recently and gave me a bunch of her unloved frags. This happened to be in the bunch and I had totally ignored it till the other day. The heat was making me scratchy and the bottle looks a little like a melting ice cube. PERFECT!!

L’Eau Par Kenzo Wild by Aurélien Guichard for Kenzo 2011

L`Eau par Kenzo Wild Kenzo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, green lilac, wild mint, bois de roseau
Heart: Jasmine, amaryllis, lotus, Guinea pepper, white peach
Base: Vanilla, musk, Virginia blue cedar

This is a fresh, fruity, cool scent that is both sweet and tart. Nothing extraordinary but extremely cologne-ish with a sweet twist. I smell nothing natural and it is probably quite cheap to produce. The minty mandarine water opening, the peachy amorphous white flower bouquet has a hint of stem and bell pepper and it ends on a woodsy note that doesn’t really smell like anything particular, but is synthetically non intrusive. What I feel when I wear L’Eau Par Kenzo Wild is clean. Imagine it’s summer, you are hot and sweaty, L’Eau Par Kenzo Wild is like shaving/waxing your legs, having a beautiful soak in the pool afterwards and then slipping into fresh cool 100% Egyptian cotton sheets with the overhead fan on low. MMMMM Perfect.

L`Eau par Kenzo Wild Kenzo julien haler  FlickrPhoto Stolen julien haler Flickr

I tried to find somewhere for you to buy L’Eau Par Kenzo Wild but though I could find the Homme version everywhere the Femme is SOLD OUT! I tried oodles of online sites and nothing. You may be lucky enough to find it on Ebay. Don’t worry if you can’t though, there are a million others quite similar. If you don’t have it you’re missing nothing. Having said that, it’s not going out in my cull.

Further reading: Pink Sith

Sorry for introducing you to a winner that I can’t even find online.

Portia xx

M’Eau Joe No.3 Hollywood Whiskey by Kedra Hart for Opus Oils 2013

Hey Hey Happy Huffers,

Last year while in LA for the Perfume Posse ScentSation Bus Tour our last fragrant stop of the day was Opus oils. Kedra Hart was there and boy is she a knockout. We sniffed and laughed, it was fun, we shopped and then we finished the day on the bus. I bought a bottle of Isis and today’s frag…

M’Eau Joe No.3 Hollywood Whiskey by Kedra Hart for Opus Oils 2013

M’Eau Joe No 3 - Hollywood Whiskey Fragrance Opus Oils FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Limnophila aromatica, whiskey, saffron, cognac, rice flower
Heart: Tobacco, honey, rose, violet, dark chocolate
Base: Amber, vanilla, tobacco, musk, moss, woody notes

The opening is FIERCE!! Do NOT put your nose near wet fragrance unless you want it completely burned out.

Once the initial screech has flown M’Eau Joe is extremely unusual. Sweet and green, a little nasty and very boozy. There is a something that feels awkward and it is hard to decide if I’m smelling gorgeous or disgusting. You know when you haven’t drunk alcohol for a while and then someone gives you a drink, or you buy one, and that first sip is both repellant and mother’s milk. I find it especially with white spirits. By the end of the first glass though it is delicious and you want more, right? So goes M’Eau Joe No.3 Hollywood Whiskey, I think it may be the Limnophila aromatica which is a plant from Asia used widely in Vietnamese, Cambodian and Thai dishes with a green/sweet scent reminiscent of lemon and cumin that gives this incredibly unusual and most interesting hue to the other accords.

M’Eau Joe No 3 - Hollywood Whiskey Opus Oils Flaming_cocktails WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Sweet, honeyed tobacco and booze, the amber is very soft in the dry down on me and it’s mainly about the vanilla, tobacco and booze right to the end, around 5-6 hours tops. I adore M’Eau Joe No.3 Hollywood Whiskey and I wish that I found it more wearable on a daily basis. When I do grab it and spritz I get a splendid, thought provoking, good freaky fragrant ride. Nothing I own smells like it, sadly that is also its downfall. I must be TOTALLY in the mood for a journey, need to have the time and space to follow the story and be wowed by the development, time to really take note. Those times are few and far between lately and M’Eau Joe has been sitting in the frag cupboard for too long. I will make a concerted effort to give it more skin time this week…..

M’Eau Joe No 3 - Hollywood Whiskey Opus Oils Cheroot_Cigars  fotopediaPhoto Stolen FotoPedia

Further reading: Perfume Posse and EauMG
Opus Oils has a huge range of ways to buy <<<JUMP
Surrender To Chance start at $6/ml

Are you a whisky or tobacco in fragrance fan? What are your favourites?
Portia x

Lolita Lempicka EdP by Annick Menardo for Lolita Lempicka 1997

Hello Fabulous Fumies,

This is a fragrance I have long loved, every now and then I would spritz it in the department stores and never purchased it but often looked at it for a purchase but would be tempted away by something else, something newer or more towards the top of my list. I haven’t even owned a decant, and nowadays it’s extremely affordable at the discounters. Weird. The bottle is great with its fun pumper and I love the lilac so I bought a bottle for my BFF Kath a while back and today I’m stealing it off her to write a review.

Lolita Lempicka EdP by Annick Menardo for Lolita Lempicka 1997

Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Anise, violet, green ivy
Heart: Licorice, almond, orris, iris, cherry, amaryllis, heliotrope
Base: Tonka, vanilla, white musk, vetiver, praline

What everyone else says about Lolita Lempicka EdP is not the way I smell it. It opens sweet sugar and almond, with a fizzy drink like Fanta bubbling over it. It’s fun, frivolous and totally fabulous. I don’t get any ivy or violet at all and cool rooty or even carroty iris seems nowhere to be found., not as I know it anyway. I do get the praline, vanilla and some resins through the heart and base though which offers some sweet depths, some heft that plays counterpoint with the lovely PEZ like fizz of the higher notes. I don’t really get a great change through Lolita Lempicka EdP but it gradually slides into the base without losing anything, just changing scent volumes. I think I need to spend some more time with Lolita Lempicka EdP, I’m sure it has some secrets hidden that only repeated wearings will unravel.

 Lolita Lempicka Fairy Floss Wikipedia
Photo Stolen Wikipedia

I am no great fan of Angel but I am a fan of Lolita Lempicka EdP, it is a calmer, prettier and less strident good time, there is still the candy floss vibe but without the headache inducing size. Yes they have both become cliches but I think that Lolita Lempicka EdP is still an extremely viable fragrance choice. I get excellent projection and sillage, scent life is really good at over 5 hours before it has faded to a sweet nothing.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Now Smell This
Fragrance Shop has $22/50ml
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml

Have you spent any time in Lolita Lempicka EdP? Great fragrance, I’ve had such fun wearing it the last few days.
Portia xx

 

Melissa – Pretty Name, Pretty Scent – A Wonderful Essential Oil

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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Melissa – Pretty Name, Pretty Scent – A Wonderful Essential Oil

Lemon_balm WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Melissa is also called lemon balm. It belongs to the same family as lavender, marjoram, peppermint, sage, patchouli, rosemary, thyme, oregano and more. You can see how the leaf looks similar to some of the other herbs too, and it’s sometimes difficult to tell them apart just from a photo.

Like many plants that create essential oils, Melissa extract is used in Naturopathy extensively for calming nerves and anxiety. This is what the essential oil is good for as well. It has a lemon scent but is more refined than lemongrass, more subtle than lemon and more delicate than any lemon scented eucalyptus or tea tree.

And once again this plant has an interesting history in healing through the past centuries. The standout landmark for this lovely plant is traced back to the Carmelite Monks of France during medieval times, but this magical herb is recorded as far back as 550BC with the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus – and ancient Greek city now in Turkey. Then we have the founders of modern medicine talking about this herb; 40—90 AD with the Greek physician Dioscorides, and with the Roman naturalist and philosopher of the same time, Pliny the Elder. Thank goodness there are really brainy people who have looked back through ancient records and delivered the information to us.

So it seems as though this gorgeous little herb has the healing powers of the universe within its little green leaves.

Back to the Carmelite monks……… or was it the nuns of another Carmelite origin in the 1200′s? Melissa has been noted way back to the 800′s as a herb of great healing properties, and it seems as though the healing water made with melissa originated in the 14th century (or even earlier) but became more well-known when the Carmelite friars were granted patents by the kings Louis IV, V and VI of France under the name “Eau de Melisse de Carmes”. During these times the herb water was both drunk as a tonic and used as a cologne to wash away the stench and dirt of the streets – and the stink of the general population who did not wash frequently! The balm water also contained other herbs and was used as a panacea. Both original recipes of Benedictine and Chartreuse (the liqueurs from monastic origin) contained melissa but not sure if they do now

Chartreuse Jeremy Brooks  FlickrPhoto Stolen Jeremy Brooks  Flickr

Chartreuse – a lovely green herbal colour with over 100 ingredients

Our beautiful melissa lost favour as more herbs and plants were discovered for healing but it is still prized in Naturopathy and Aromatherapy today as a soothing balm for the emotions. In Aromatherapy we use melissa for –

* uplifting emotional states in depression

* soothing anxiety

* on the skin as an anti-viral – topically for cold sores

* vapourised in a room of sickness to help with nausea and to limit the spread of a virus (it seems that a lot of the lemon scented plants have a great anti-viral effect and I’ve always recommended vapourising lemon in the home if you have a sick person to reduce the spread of the virus or bacteria)

* on the stomach to reduce cramps

Melissa officinalis WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Melissa – also called balm and lemon balm – is best used to soothe the soul, mental anguish and to inspire happiness. Just take a whiff straight from the bottle.

It is a very expensive oil so you will probably find it in a 3% dilution ready to use straight from the bottle as a perfume, anointing oil and skin treatment for lesions.

I hope you love melissa as much as I do!

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Happy blending and remember to use your intention when you are creating your formulas.

Suzanne R Banks

Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

copyright suzannerbanks 2013

Tilleul by Olivia Giacobetti for D`Orsay 2008

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Hiding in the back of my perfume shelf I found a fragrance I haven’t worn for years. TILLEUL D’Orsay. I’d forgotton how lovely it was. I originally bought it as it reminded me of honeysuckle, fresh freesias and lily of the valley combined, but in a way smelt far more natural and less sickly-toilet-sprayish than a fragrance with these ingredients would usually smell. (I find frags of these flowers often smell cheap and nasty)

On revisiting it I now realize its got plenty more to it and is put together incredibly well.

Tilleul by Olivia Giacobetti for D`Orsay 2008

Tilleul D`Orsay FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon blossom, angelica, watermelon
Heart: Cyclamen, linden blossom
Base: Acacia tree, bee wax, hay, black locust

Tilleul by D`Orsay is light and sparkles with a waxy floral, citrus-like, smell, especially straight from the bottle. Tileul is Linden blossom, mixed up with lemon blossom. It is fresh, pretty and bright. Summery to me.

Once sprayed, there’s gusts of watermelon, maybe slightly green, which surprisingly I am liking, considering I’m not a big one for fruity fragrances. The waxy undertones seem to be beeswax and I think this makes the whole combo tolerable, and not too sweet for me. The dryness, touching on powdery, could be hay , or grasses. I am still reminded of honeysuckle, but it’s almost like that smell has been re-constructed with the use of other flowers/ingredients, rather than containing any actual honeysuckle.

Tilleul by D`Orsay honeysuckle WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The other factor leading me away from thinking it’s honeysuckle is a floral, citrus green note. A muguet? Perhaps not lily of the valley, or freesia as first thought, but cyclamen, a flower I consider to be quite underated. So often the pots sit flowering in peoples homes and no one stoops to smell them. Such a pretty scent, but so so faint, usually. Not here. Here it is amplified and enhanced by its co-ingredients.

If you like mimosa/acacia/floral green fragrances like L’Occitane Eau d’azur – this will be a hit for you – but far more natural and not as heavy on synthetics like calone, which gives me a nasty headache. This is a well balanced scent.

Tilleul by D`Orsay was first created in 1915, so there is definitely a beautiful vintage feel to the scent, and combination of ingredients is very “of that era”. Very French. In 2008 it was reformulated by Olivia Giacobetti, which might be why also I am getting a good whiff of freesia perhaps, as she was the nose behind Ofresia for Diptyche. (which is also very nice, but VERY VERY SWEET…and seems to get sweeter in the bottle over time). I love so many of her mixes, and seem to building a little collection/shrine to her over time.

Tilleul D`Orsay The_Quarrel_of_Oberon_and_Titania WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

It’s a fresh green floral. It’s summer. Tilleul by D`Orsay is green watermelon!!!! Too much would be a bit sickly for me, but today- a hot 32 degrees in Byron Bay, a light spritz and I am off to the beach DEFINITELY smelling better than those in my way!! (someone should open a perfume shop up here!!)

Further reading: Confessions Of A Perfume Nerd and Now Smell This
Parfum1 has $75/50ml
The Posh Peasant starts at $3.50/ml

have you revisited the back of your cupboard lately- found anything you like?? Tell me more!!

Ainslie Walker

My Introduction to Thai Cuisine: Brie

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Post by Brie

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For the first thirty years of my life I resided in New York City. My first apartment as a young adult was within walking distance of a miniscule ten table restaurant called “Simply Thai”. It was owned and run by a fearsome threesome team :siblings from Thailand.  The brother was the chef while one sister served as hostess and the other as waitress. This restaurant quickly became my weekly haunt. For $8.95 the early bird special offered up a glass of wine, an appetizer, main entrée and dessert. Every Friday evening my friends and I would devour chicken sate, pad thai and black bean ice cream.

Perfume & Tea Musings: My Introduction to Thai Cuisine

Prescriptives: Calyx
Harney & Sons: Bangkok Green Thai Tea

Calyx Prescriptives FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

 

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Apricot, passionfruit, mint, mandarin orange, cassia, peach, mango, bergamot, grapefruit, papaya, guava
Heart: Cyclamen, lily, melon, freesia, orris root, jasmine, neroli, marigold, lily-of-the-valley, rose
Base: Musk, oakmoss, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver

The fragrance I always wore on those special nights was Prescriptive’s Calyx. The perfume’s overripe, fruity/tartness, with a green tropical vibe perfectly suited the atmosphere and food in Simply Thai.     Harney and Sons Bangkok Green Thai, a green tea with notes of ginger, lemongrass, coconut and vanilla might appear to be an oddity: a schism between the green/spicy lemongrass and ginger combo and the creaminess of the coconut/vanilla mix. Nonetheless, the notes manage to come together to make this an unusually, yet delectable tea. It is the perfect accompaniment to the Thai food and Calyx perfume.

Brie Tea BrittanyPhoto taken by Brittany

My introduction to Thai food in this quaint little restaurant whetted my appetite and desire to explore other cultural and ethnically diverse cuisines which developed into a lifelong endeavor. When I drink Bangkok Green Thai tea and wear my Calyx perfume, I reflect back to that time and place. It serves as a powerful reminder of how truly blessed I was to be surrounded by the very best of friends, great food and an unusual, yet fabulous, fragrance!

(Sadly, Calyx has been reformulated. I own a small vial of the current version. Although it bears the skeletal remains of the original, the overripe fruit, extremely tart concoction has been replaced with a milder, more floral, fresher scent).

Harney and Sons site has Bangkok starts at as little as $2 for samples.
FragranceNet starts at $22/15ml for Calyx
Surrender To Chance starts at $5/2ml

Brie XX

ED: Yes, this a not a new post, I was drinking some Harney & Sons White Mutan tea and thinking of Brie so I have reused one of her posts, the next one will be her last. I am sad. Brie wrote this post ahead of time and will not be responding to comments. I (Portia) will pick up the slack though so please leave a message in the comments if you’d like to continue the conversation. I don’t know why Brie needed to leave us but there is a Brie sized hole in my life without her. Brie, if you are reading, we miss you and hope you are happy and well. Drop in if you are around, we’d love to chat. XXX

Jasmin et Cigarette by Antoine Maisondieu for Etat Libre d’Orange 2006

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Post by Sister Mary Magdelene, Patron Saint of Perfumers

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Worshippers rejoice! Another year given us to praise the fragrance!

New Year usually means hot and dry midsummer where I am, and although on the calendar Summer commenced a month ago, this season she drags her feet. I’m delighting in this extended Spring with its long season of jasmine flowering.

The earliest variety is even now providing heady sprays of indolic pinky tipped blooms borne on their vigorous vine. When the flowers first appeared I dipped some briefly in vodka and the result served over sorrel sorbet was a taste of spring garden. Later the Chinese Star variety popped, its dark handsome foliage and pure white flowers providing such pretty visual contrast to complement the quite different fresh citrus blossom fragrance of those blooms. Both these jasmines seem to feature in today’s fragrance.

Let us spray…

Jasmin et Cigarette by Antoine Maisondieu for Etat Libre d’Orange 2006

Jasmin et Cigarette Etat Libre d`Orange FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Jasmine asbolute, tobacco notes, apricot, tonka beans, curcuma, cedar, amber, musc, hay

When I first smelled Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette I was startled to have novel nuances of that indolic pink tipped jasmine flower brought front and centre. These smoky stale aspects evident both in the flowers’ natural bouquet and in jasmine absolute became so obvious to me as Antoine Maisondieu accentuates them in this composition. He gave me an “Aha!” moment of observational clarity that was enough to intrigue me with this perfume from the outset.

Ah and a memory came – shameful confession – of my younger self, a mere novice, happened upon in a clandestine moment behind the chapel where the exuberant jasmine vine frothed and tumbled. I had just inhaled the fug exhaled by the flowers commingled with my first (and last) gasp of a gasper. Sister Ignatia’s smile on seeing me was quiet and indulgent. She wisely intoned: “Tread carefully with anything you cannot set down as readily as you have taken it up…” and strolled on.

Jasmin et Cigarette Etat Libre d`Orange  Frederick Dennstedt  FlickrPhoto Stolen Frederick Dennstedt  Flickr

Ancient entwined echoes of shame swirling with Jasmin et Cigarette’s initial intoxicating headrush of indolic jasmine fragrance and ashy, smoky cigarette fumes soon dissipate. The fragrance becomes expansive with notes of crushed greenery, fresh tobacco and earthiness, all scents that also arose long ago as I hastily snuffed my illicit cigarette underfoot!

Jasmin et Cigarette might commence slightly left of centre for some, the bitter earthy note of curcuma (turmeric) reading too ashy or metallic. These dimensions soon recede as the earthier side of turmeric emerges, a sweet dust that merges with the anchoring warm cedar whilst the tonka lends hints of honey and hay to the now rather delectable aromas of fresh cured tobacco. Over all this a light citrusy jasmine blossom floats and the fragrance hums thusly quiet and elegant for several hours.

Jasmin et Cigarette Etat Libre d`Orange Princess Jasmine DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

Although it seems to wear quite close, I have several times wandered into the delicious light floral breeze of my own sillage. I have worn Jasmin et Cigarette in a range of contexts to numerous yums and no condemnation. After 5 or 6 hours its last whisper fades with the warmth, sweetness and wisdom of a benediction.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $80/50ml
Surrender To Chance starts at $4.75/ml

Fragrant blessings,
Sister Mary Magdelene, Patron Saint of Perfumers.

Peety by O’Driu GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Hey APJ,

 What an amazing response to the Angelo Orazio Pregon Interview and Peety Giveaway!  I counted 55 individual entries (plus 4 extras for tweets).  35  APJs voted to personalize (of that number 18 favored “divide and pee” – thank you for that one Sally M).  19 did not want pee in their perfume (of this number two were somewhat unsure) and 1 entry avoided making any decision whatsoever.  Clearly, the Pees have it! Thanks to everyone for their participation and for their interesting and thought provoking comments.

Congratulations to the winners and don’t forget to send Portia your addresses so that O’Driù can send you your prizes!
Once again, Happy New Year to All!
Azar xx

Angelo Orazio Pregon Interview: Peety by O’Driu

Peety O`Driu FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tobacco, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, tonka bean and pink pepper

Peety is available from the O’Driu site €150/49ml

Surrender To Chance starts at $6/.5ml

Peety by O’Driu GIVEAWAY WINNERS

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have FIVE winners:

2 MAIN WINNERS who will each receive:
1 x 49ml Peety™ bottle
P&H Anywhere in the world

3 RUNNER UPS who will each receive:
1 x Peety™ Sample Kits
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ and tell us would you personalise the product or not and why.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 5th January 2014 10pm Australian EST

The winners of this smelly draw needed to be chosen in an equally smelly way.  Once again I enlisted the aid of the long suffering B-Azar.  This time he reached his hand down into a stinky boot that had been loaded with the names of the participants.  To make the experience less difficult for him I placed a fragrant orchid, a Zygopetalum hybrid, nearby to modify the scent of the odoriferous boot.

Winners brooklodgePhoto Stolen brooklodge

For the 49 ml bottles of Peety

Patty Pong and Nymphomaniac

For the sample sets

Cookie queen, Lubka K and Carolyn

The winners will have till Wednesday 5th January 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.