Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine by Sandrine Videault for Grandiflora 2013

January 21, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

The fragrance world lost a cherished luminary in 2013. Perfumer and fragrance visionary Sandrine Videault passed away on July 3rd last year. Today we remember not only her amazing fragrances, but her touching, inspiring words.

Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine by Sandrine Videault for Grandiflora 2013

Sandrine studied perfumery under Edmond Roudnitska. Her final perfume is Magnolia Grandiflora, which she worked on with floral artisan Saskia Havekes. This extraordinary fragrance has been highly anticipated by the fragrance community and was launched this month on Lucky Scent.

Magnolia Grandiflora
Perfumer: Sandrine Videault
Release Date: August 2013
Classification: Soliflore
EDP 100ml
Recommended Retail Price: $185 AUD / $168 EUR
Pre-orders: fragrance@grandiflora.net

Notes
Top citrus, grapefruit, pepper
Heart dry woods, fresh garden accord,
Drydown marine, musk

Many flowers today are bred to be beautiful but not necessarily fragrant. Saskia has sources for particularly fragrant flowers which she artfully combines with beautifully bred ones for a scented atmosphere with visual delights. Photographing nature is also a passion. Grandiflora is the name of Saskia’s atelier in Potts Point.

The story of this fragrance begins millions of years ago, before humans or many other creatures we know today existed. The ancient genus Magnolia appeared before bees did, and pollination occurred thanks to the help of beetles. The tree adapted to the strength of its hardworking pollinators, resulting in the longevity of this beautiful, fragrant tree.

The magnolia is a true sight to behold – tall trees mantled with startling blossoms come to life in the springtime, shrouding surrounding areas in a fragrance known to this earth for more than 20 million years. The magnolia’s timber is heavy and robust, and the flower has continued to bloom and burst with lush fragrance across the ages, yet the flowers fade so fast. To hold magnolia’s fragrance is a kind of magical blessing.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

Many of us will remember Sandrine through the tropical intensity of Manoumalia. In the Pacific tourists are often charmed by the scent of the local manoi oils which are used for tanning, moisturising skin and hair as well as for bath and massage oil. Manoi oil is coconut oil usually blended with the Tahitian gardenia known as Tiare but also with frangipani, ylang ylang and vanilla, in an enfleurage type process. Coconut oil is the carrier fat for the scent. Unfortunately when these oils leave the tropics the scent changes to ‘off’ or more precisely, indolic at the unpleasant end of the spectrum. The amazingness of Manoumalia is how Sandrine captured the heady lush scent of The Perfume Tree (Fragrea), Tiare, Ylang Ylang, Amber, Vetiver and Sandalwood within a perfume that could then be enjoyed anywhere in the world like an instant tropical holiday. Truly an expression of the art of perfumery.

Her other notable works – Ambre Indien by Esteban, Violeta by Les Néréides, and the recreation of the ancient Egyptian Kyphi live on in the hearts and minds of those of us grieving her passing.

Sandrine lived in New Caledonia and loved working in her creative laboratory in Noumea. In an interview with Perfumes, Trends and Inspirations, she said:

“Avoir son lieu de création près de Dame Nature est un cadeau”
(“Having a place of creation near Mother Nature is a gift”)

In an interview with Perfume Shrine, she said living in New Caledonia connected her with her roots.

“I feel more beaming or blooming and I am more serene. If something is wrong inside of you then you won’t create with harmony. You can not cheat with perfume authoring. States of mind come to light in perfume authoring. Bad moods are forbidden. Moreover, New Caledonia with its nature and ethnic groups is a mine of inspiration for me.”

Sandrine was both a perfume visionary and a woman wise beyond her years. She will be remembered for the scents she created and the words she left behind. May we now cherish the gifts she has left behind, and learn from the lessons she sought to teach.

“The most important lesson…..that we know nothing! So many things left to learn, to discover, to live.”

Farewell Sandrine, you will be missed.

Further Reading
Grain de Musc – Manoumalia
Perfume Shrine – Manoumalia
Perfume Shrine – Interview with Sandrine
The Fragrant Man – Magnolia Grandiflora

In Memory of Sandrine Videault
Grain de Musc
Olfactoria’s Travels
Perfume Shrine – poetry
The Scented Salamander

Update
Grain de Musc – Two Magnolias will blossom in January 2014 at Grandiflora

Le Temps d’une Fête by Parfums de Nicolaï 2007

January 20, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Maya

Happy New Year APJ,

I have always been amazed at how the same scent can be perceived in so many different ways. It often made me wonder if something was wrong with me. My perceptions were usually in with the minority; for example, those who only get green beans and nothing but green beans from The Unicorn Spell.

So thank you to the New Zealand study. Scent is genetic. Our scent realities are all unique! And on that note, I’m going to give my scent opinion on a sample that tragically laid around, ignored, for way too long.

Le Temps d’une Fête by Parfums de Nicolaï 2007

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, opoponax
Heart: Narcissus, jasmine
Base: Oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, woody notes

Le Temps D’Une Fete is a green floral. There is an interesting green flash at opening, and it’s gone. Then comes the true opening of narcissus and hyacinth vying for attention. I sniff one, then the other, then back again and again and again. It’s like they’re dancing and with each twirl, the other appears. It’s the early spring garden when both are in bloom. The scents of both swirl around in the breeze. You smell one then the other. Sometimes they blend together. It’s wonderful.

Photo Stolen *higetiger Flickr

There is a pretty green, grassy, hay-like note that soon enters the dance floor. It has a lovely familiar element that I can’t name but really really like. This green overwhelms the flowers for a few minutes, but they will not be restrained and come out again, only more softly and gently blended. The jasmine, sadly, is sitting out the dance. The green eventually weakens a little as the oakmoss and patchouli appear on the dance floor. They twirl and swirl and here and there narcissus and hyacinth are dancing again too. This is their fete also and they’re staying. Sandalwood is shy and only does an occasional dance.

After more than an hour, the notes blend together in a happy waltz, except for narcissus. This diva makes sure she is always in the spotlight. Le Temps D’Une Fete teases me and surprises me. Most perfumes do not. With Le Temps D’Une Fete, the notes switch partners often. Both the green and the flowers share equal time. Neither takes over the dance. What fun! I have not enjoyed a new fragrance like this in a long time.

Le Temps D’Une Fete has a medium silage and I’m happy to say that I get to enjoy it on myself for at least 7+ hours.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent have $115/100ml
Surrender To Chance have samples starting at $3/ml

A happy and beautiful fragrance. I love it! I had heard that it was being discontinued, but have now heard, that at the very least, it will be available on demand! Have you found a new love recently or reacquainted yourself with an old one?

MayaXX

DIOR: How To Get the Trianon Look: Mini Movie

January 19, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Hiya Junkies,

As you may know I have a bit of an addictive personality, also I am a Drag Queen, so you’d think I would have box loads of make up. The answer is no. Yes, I have backups of my favourite products but everything fits into a small drawer. I do love watching makeup fashions evolve though and this season I think DIOR has hit a home run. Looking like a pastel Bambi with eyes the surprised vacant look of a bunny about to get Dunlop disease, the model is absolutely outrageously gorgeous.

Of course it is referencing Marie Antoinette but in my mind it also harks back to Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. GLAM.

Like the look? Want to know how to get it? Below is a how to video.

Enjoy,

Portia xx

Photo Stolen TheMalayMailOnline

DIOR SPRING 2014: Trianon Look

Photo Stolen DIOR

The Art and Olfaction Awards

January 18, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Jordan River

Ed: This is a post going out across three blogs today: Olfactoria’s Travels, The Fragrant Man and Australian Perfume Junkies. Special thanks to Jordan River who is the King of Organisation and whose research, inquisitive mind, words and teachings often inspire me.

New Indie and Artisan Awards

The Art and Olfaction Awards

2014 brings us a new award model for independent and artisan perfumers called The Art and Olfaction Awards. These awards have been established to:

celebrate creativity, innovation and excellence in global independent and artisan perfumery.

– The Art and Olfaction Awards

There are only two categories; Indie and Artisan. Perfumers in these categories have until January 24th to submit a sample of their work at a cost of $45 per entry which is limited to two entries of perfumes released in 2013. Submissions are accepted from any country.

The Art and Olfaction Awards are organised by The Insitute of Art and Olfaction in Los Angeles. I spoke with the founder of the institute, Saskia Wilson-Brown about this new development…

The Art and Olfaction Awards are not intended to compete or replace other awards. I come from a film background, and in the film world people submit to many different festivals or awards. We are applying that model to perfumery, so are not trying to be exclusive or competitive with other awards and events. We’re creating a space devoted to independent and artisan perfumers.

Saskia Wilson-Brown
The Institute of Art and Olfaction

Last year there was a lengthy discussion in the comments on Kafkaesque about the FiFi awards. By Jove there were a lot of opinions everywhere about the FiFi award received by By Kilian. There was even a discussion about setting up another series of awards which was cognisant of the differences between niche, indie and artisan categories within the perfume industry. Thankfully this has now happened.

Definitions of Indie and Artisan for the purposes of these awards are here. The awards cleverly transcend any natural vs synthetic categories and gender perceptions of perfume by defining the entrants by business type rather than by type of perfume.

Judges are not allowed to enter their own work and all perfumes will be blindly judged. The judges this time around for The Art and Olfaction Awards are:

Preliminary Judges
Marcos Lutyens – Artist
Brent Leonesio – Perfumer
James McHugh – Historian
Sherri Sebastian – Perfumer
Ashley Eden Kessler – Perfumer
Daniel Krasofski – Natural Perfumer
Hank Jenkins – The Plant Provocateur
Carlos Alvarez – Scent Bar / LuckyScent.com
Laura Johnson – Scent Bar / LuckyScent.com
Rachel Sondag – Scent Bar / LuckyScent.com
Steven Gontarski Scent Bar / LuckyScent.com
Koan Jeff Baysa – Institute of Art and Olfaction
Yvettra Grantham – Scent Bar / LuckyScent.com

Final Round Judges
Mandy Aftel – Perfumer
Luca Turin – Perfume Critic
Stefan Sagmeister – Designer
Sarah Horowitz-Thran – Perfumer
Christophe Laudamiel – Perfumer

The judges will be looking for an X factor as well as technical skill, first impressions, dry down performance and the ability of the perfume to be memorable.

The awards ceremony will held be in Los Angeles at The Goethe Institut on April 25, 2014.

Submission – Information
The Art and Olfaction Awards – website

The awards are being produced in partnership and with the support of:
Fragrantica
Lucky Scent
Goethe Institut
The Standard Hotel
Beski Projekts
AutumnSeventy
Odelab
Olfactif
Miniature Perfume Shoppe
Happily

L`Eau De Monteil WINNERS

January 18, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Dear APJ,

Thank you all again for the great comments and wonderful stories. Each of us should be writing our own memoirs!

Regarding the draw: As usual B-Azar pulled the winning names from the floppy sunhat.

L`Eau De Monteil WINNERS

Photo Stolen markmontanoblogs

Marion and Kandice

Please send your addresses to Portia at portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au

Azar xx

Kashmir Spice by Serena Ava Franco for Ava Luxe

January 17, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Hey Hey Niche Nerds,

Ava Luxe is a super surprise package of fabulous frag gems. The great news is that for a micro niche brand the prices are extremely affordable and sizes are also kept small so you can try 4 or 5 Ava Luxe frags for the cost of a mainstream offering.

Kashmir Spice by Ava Luxe

KashmirSpice Fragrantica Photo Stolen Fragrantica

From the Ava Luxe site:
An alluring blend of exotic spices, cashmere woods, and incense. Turkish Rose absolute weaves it way through this sensual scent.
Featured Notes: East Indian spices, frankincense, myrrh, Cashmere woods, Turkish Rose Absolute, gaiacwood, amber.

WOW!! Kashmir Spice goes on hefty and gourmand, it’s a big fat glorious wander through one of the fabulous spice stores in Northern India. There is even the dry, throat raspy feeling of intense heat and spices in enclosed spaces during an Indian summer. Totally edible and smelling like a sweeter version of the first moment the spices hit hot oil in a pan Kashmir Spice is an assault on your senses that is both enticing and memorable. The amber, frankinsense and myrrh give a lively resinous counterpoint that is sweet, balmy and dusty (The dusty may be the spices actually) at the same time. The woods and rose play only background on my skin but on Jin the rose is quite prominent, maybe you have to be further than I can get to smell it, on him Kashmir Spice’s Turkish rose absolute is like honey and rosewater baklava. MMMM! I even get a hint of ginger through the body of the fragrance and it works in the heat and the cold. I’m thinking of taking it with me on my holidays next week, that’s how much I love it.

kashmirBoats ToshaliTours Photo Stolen ToshaliTours

I get a medium life span of around 4 hours of fragrance but after that my skin still smells better than reality, just ever so slightly vanillic, for another couple of hours and then gone. Way too perfumed for close working, borderline for dinner and cinema but perfect for all other moments when smelling gorgeous is important. At these prices you can afford to wear it as your daily after hours go-to frag, Kashmir Spice would be on a current short list for my 10 Desert Island frags.

KashmiriSpiceMarket ABC.net Photo Stolen ABC.net

I have worn Kashmir Spice to my work a few times and it is a guaranteed compliment gatherer and people want to get in for a big ole snuffle of you, then they ask what it is that you smell of and where can they get it. Every time so far! It has also seen some fairly intense wear on my skin over time, there’s quite a lot of air in my 15ml and I will soon need to replace it.

Further reading: I could only find reviews on Make Up Alley and there is love and hate in equal measure
AvaLuxe site has 15ml EdP/$30 and 5ml extrait/$27

Take care of yourselves,
Portia xx

Disclaimer: This is a repeat post. If you have been a long time reader and this twigged your memory. I was halfway through writing a new post about Kashmir Spice when my brain asked me to check, and yes, this was originally posted on December 30 2012. I have given it a couple of tweaks but it really is the same post.

ONE SEED SCENT BAR: NEW!!

January 17, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Heya APJ Friends and Family,

Here is the most exciting thing I’ve seen in a while. we love One Seed and their creator Liz Cook here at APJ and when news like this hits the desktop I get very happy.

This is what I just got sent. WOW!!!
Portia xx

We are thrilled to launch our new Scent Bar online! Now you can create your own custom-fragrance using natural extracts and accords from our collection.
Simply choose your favourite top, middle and base notes from those listed, and we will expertly blend them into an 8ml atomiser for only $29.95!

VISIT THE SCENT BAR NOW…<<<JUMP

And for a limited time, we are giving you $10 off your first Scent Bar order!
This is a subscribers-only offer and wont be offered to the general public. It’s our little ‘thankyou’ to you!

Just use code 2Y34CQTG9R59 at checkout. (Offer expires 31st January 2014)

Here is how mine looked:
Top note: spice (clove; cardamom; fennel; nutmeg)
Middle note: white flowers (jasmine;magnolia;tuberose;champaca;orange blossom)
Base note: amber
Optional-up to 2 extra notes: Orange, Ylang
Which note to be dominant?: Amber

Under $30. What a great idea.

VISIT THE SCENT BAR NOW…<<<JUMP

Armani Privè Ambre Soie by Christina Nagel for Giorgio Armani 2004

January 16, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Poodle

Armani Privè Ambre Soie by Christina Nagel for Giorgio Armani 2004

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Ginger, amber, patchouli, pepper, cloves

Ambre Soie is a perfume that has a little bite to it. It opens with a burst of amber and ginger. It’s more about sharp, fresh ginger than the dried one used in baking. I can smell the black pepper too. It’s not what I’d call sharp but there’s almost a warmth or heat to it in the opening. As the ginger fades the pepper becomes more evident. Pepper is one of those notes that is sometimes a deal breaker for me. I don’t mind it in this although I will say it’s not my favorite part of the perfume’s development. It gives a warm feeling to the perfume and I can imagine reaching for it on a cold winters night. A night like tonight for instance, where as I’m sniffing and writing, the wind is howling away and the wind chill is well below freezing. Somehow just the word Ambre in the name makes me feel like it will take the chill away.

Photo Stolen Geography.org

There’s a dry, spicy feeling to Ambre Soie before it all seems to mellow and soften. This is where I begin to really enjoy the scent. It becomes a touch sweeter as the amber really emerges with a spicy patchouli note. The patchouli hums along quietly and never veers into moldy decay like some patchoulis do. Amber scents can be sweet and almost cloying at times. Ambre Soie has a sweetness to it but it doesn’t cross that line. It doesn’t list incense as a note but as it wears on me it becomes more of an incense and amber scent. Somehow, up close, I smell menthol too. At this point it’s very cozy, like a warm blanket.

Photo Stolen Sarah Ackerman Flickr

I would say it could easily be worn by a man or a woman. I would wear it but some women might find it leans a little too masculine for them. I think that’s the pepper that gives it that little edge. It’s more of a scent to wear when you plan on snuggling up to someone special rather than wearing it to the office. It only lasted a few hours on my skin with minimal projection after the first hour. On my clothes though it lingered well into the next day. I’m sure both these factors could be adjusted based on whether you were to dab or spray and how much you applied. Also bear in mind my skin eats perfume and I’m using a sample vial.

While I enjoy Ambre Soie I don’t think I need a bottle of it. It’s not quite love.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and The Scented Hound
You can find Armani Privè Ambre Soie at big department stores.
Surrender To Chance starts at $4/.5ml

What scents warm you on a cold winter’s night? Have you tried Ambre Soie? What’s your favorite amber?

Moon Bloom by Hiram Green 2013

January 15, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Hey APJ! Happy New Year.

Through the miracle of modern technology, Portia introduced me to Hiram Green by email, and invited him to send me a sample of Moon Bloom. Oh yes, I was excited. This would be a first for me, having a perfume sent specifically to be tested and written about. But what if I didn´t like it?

I am sat here sipping my Matcha latte (my current addiction), with my nose glued to my wrist wondering what on earth I can possibly add to all that has been said already about Moon Bloom. I will have to assume that some of you are reading about Moon Bloom for the first time.

Moon Bloom by Hiram Green 2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tuberose absolute, jasmine absolute, ylang-ylang, coconut, leafy greens, tropical spices, resins

Moon Bloom is an all natural fragrance. Tuberose absolute, jasmine absolute, and creamy ylang ylang, mingled with coconut, leafy greens, hints of tropical spice and resins. It is extremely feminine and drop-dead gorgeous; hypnotic and narcotic. I wore it up a mountain. Sub-zero temperatures along with snow add to the beauty of this very desirable concoction. It´s luminous, visible in the darkness. It is a fragrance for the winter solstice.

Photo Stolen FotoPedia

“Natural fragrant materials have the power to stimulate the senses in ways a synthetic cannot duplicate.” Hiram Green

The perfume hugs the skin like a cloak, staying close for at least six hours. I cannot recommend it highly enough if tuberose and perfection together is your thing. The bottle too is as perfect as the perfume within it.

Further reading: About Hiram Green – Olfactoria’s Travels and Smelly Thoughts
Hiram Green has €135/50ml, and a €25/5ml TRAVEL SIZE. Just like all perfume houses should do. (Note – folks outside of the EU do not pay sales tax, so it comes in at a lower price.)

There was no need to worry. I loved it. You know how you can tell? I would not have written about it otherwise.

With a million thanks to Hiram Green for giving me the opportunity, and encouraging me to look further into natural perfumery.

Have a nice day.

Bussis
CQ

New Years Resolutions 2014 (The Fragrant Version)

January 14, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 19 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Happy New Year perfumed peeps!

Today I want to share with you three fragrant wishes for 2014, or more aptly, three good things I started to do last year and want to continue.

New Years Resolutions 2014 (The Fragrant Version)

1. Sharing my perfume hobby more with friends and family.

Case number one: My Mum. Mum’s been faithful to Giorgio for several years now. It smells great on her and she likes it, but can’t really smell it anymore. Several attempts to get her to try other things have usually been met with much protest. So, when I gifted her with some samples on a recent visit to Sydney, I fully expected them to lie unused in her dresser. Not so. When we went to stay with my parents at Christmas, she happily announced that she was wearing Aurora Nomade by The Different Company. She then proceeded to be utterly charmed by Beyond Love By Kilian and Manguier Metisse by Parfumerie Generale and Cocobello by Heeley. She’s loving it and she’s still going….

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Case number two: a family friend, Miss L, who asked me to help her find a new perfume several months ago. After some time sniffing, testing and sample gifting, my brother announces at Christmas that she’s hit the jackpot. The chosen one is “the Guerlain with the Japanese name”. “Ahhh, Mitsouko!” Mr M proclaims (I’ve taught him well people). Miss L wanted a bottle of the EDP but couldn’t find it anywhere and contacted me in desperation. I had a partial bottle that was lying around unloved that I happily gave her. She was thrilled and I haven’t felt better about a perfume experience for a long time.

2. Exploring more scents on the very masculine end of the spectrum.

I’m as girly-girl as they come and so are my perfume tastes, mostly. I realise that it’s a no-no to speak of a gender divide in perfume, but I have not smelt enough (or reviewed enough) scents that lie in what I deem to be the more masculine camp. This was prompted this was Mr M’s request for a fourth scent for Christmas. He has Autoportrait by Olfactive Studio, Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne and Antaeus by Chanel and isn’t going to be wearing Fracas or even something more unisex anytime soon.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

I chose Bois du Portugal by Creed. It smelt great on me, great on the card, and even my Mum loved it. But it was a disaster on him: waaaaay too sweet and too much lavender. The whole exercise made me realise that I haven’t smelt any of the masculine Amouages, Knize Ten, most Chanels for men and lord knows what else. In 2014, I want to rectify that.

3. Cull more of my collection

After many impulse buys and hence a few bottles lying around untouched, I have finally realised that there’s a huge distinction between the perfume I want to wear most of the time and the perfume I want to experience, wear on the odd occasion, or write about. This hobby certainly doesn’t mean I have to have 30 bottles that get worn once a year, it’s about enjoying what you have. And in saying that, sometimes less is more. So, full bottles only for the ones I regularly use and samples or decants for everything else. I really would like to get my collection down to eight or ten bottles and the rest is going to be sold.

Photo Stolen Vogue Tumbler

So, what do you think of my list? Do you have any perfume goals or wishes for this year? What perfumes do you want to buy or experience this year?

With much love until next time!

M x

Australian Perfume Junkies

Olfactory Opinions from Oz

Author: australianperfumejunkiescom

Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine by Sandrine Videault for Grandiflora 2013

Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine by Sandrine Videault for Grandiflora 2013

Le Temps d’une Fête by Parfums de Nicolaï 2007

Le Temps d’une Fête by Parfums de Nicolaï 2007

DIOR: How To Get the Trianon Look: Mini Movie

DIOR SPRING 2014: Trianon Look

The Art and Olfaction Awards

New Indie and Artisan Awards

The Art and Olfaction Awards

L`Eau De Monteil WINNERS

L`Eau De Monteil WINNERS

Marion and Kandice

Kashmir Spice by Serena Ava Franco for Ava Luxe

Kashmir Spice by Ava Luxe

ONE SEED SCENT BAR: NEW!!

VISIT THE SCENT BAR NOW…<<<JUMP

VISIT THE SCENT BAR NOW…<<<JUMP

Armani Privè Ambre Soie by Christina Nagel for Giorgio Armani 2004

Armani Privè Ambre Soie by Christina Nagel for Giorgio Armani 2004