Author: australianperfumejunkiescom

CHANEL No 5 parfum: LIVE Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Hi Wonderful Wafters,

CHANEL No 5 has a mystery and mystique all its own. No other fragrance on the planet has sold in such numbers for so long. It is revered and reviled in equal measure by the fragrance community but to me its about as lavish and comfoting as a hot chocolate on a cold night while snuggled in a feather doona eating Jin’s home made macaroons and watching films. The ULTIMATE!

CHANEL No 5 parfum

LIVE Video Sniff

Chanel No 5 Parfum Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, ylang-ylang, bergamot, amalfi lemon, aldehydes
Heart: Iris, jasmine, orris root, rose, lily-of-the-valley
Base: Vetiver, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, oak moss, amber, vanille, civet

From Coco and Marilyn to me, CHANEL No 5 fits almost every mood.

By Night Black by Profumi del Forte 2009

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Post by Portia

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Hi the Fumies,

I remember trying this a while back but have no memory of the scent. I’m surprised that it wasn’t written about because I love the Profumi del Forte line in general, they are lavish new looks at old ideas. Something about the line smells distinctive and quality to me. It’s weird that I don’t own a full bottle of one yet, Versilia Vintage Ambra Mediterranea is my favourite of the line but it never seems to last till checkout in my cart.

By Night Black by Profumi del Forte 2009

By Night Black Profumi del Forte FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lime, cypress, mandarin orange, orange, fig leaf, basil, juniper, bitter orange, rose hip, lavender, cypress
Heart: Pine, mate, jasmine, incense
Base: Cedar

A warm, herbal cologne. Singing top notes that are high citrus & woods with a marked creaminess, a pithiness, a dry and warm undercurrent that By Night Black’s notes give me no reason to expect. Very urbane, I can imagine it on a well dressed business person who wants to smell a little outside the box but not outrageous. Maybe it’s the mate that’s adding the creamy warmth. I’ve only drunk it once at Roxana Villa’s place and my memory is of a creamy green drink that was sweet and lightly tea-ish, more like a smoothie. The jasmine definitely is playing a smoothing role too though the heart, which is lovely. Gaia in her Non Blonde review is saddened that By Night Black is not interesting enough, I can’t say I have the same sense of let down. There is plenty of nuance and interesting by play for me. Maybe because my expectations were so low it smells better than I expected?

By Night Black Profumi del Forte Rajeev_Pillai WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

So while I’m falling asleep about an hour after this application I notice that By Night Black has collapsed into something that I know but can’t place, like an everyman’s dry down. A woodsy scent that leads my mind to the 1990s/early 2000s gym locker rooms. I’m falling asleep so it’s a passing thought and then it’s morning.

Next morning I awake and there is something a little off left on my hand, it’s a woodsy/fishy/salty/sweet/decaying scent that while being very light still manages to make me feel uncomfortable and run to the bathroom to wash my hand. So freaking weird. The end.

By Night Black Profumi del Forte Fish Head Beatrice Murch FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Non Blonde
First In Fragrance has €168/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

Obviously you may have an entirely different wear and there has been some nasty reaction with my chemistry. It did freak me out a bit this morning though. I couldn’t get my hand under the tap fast enough.

Have you ever had a frag turn feral? Tell us the story please.
Portia xx

Dorina by Nejla Barbir for Dorin Perfumes 2015

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Post by Robert Herrmann

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I will be the first to admit that I can be very finicky when it comes to Iris-centric scents. I loves me some Iris, oh yes I do. Growing up, when the Iris’s came into season, we always had a vase full somewhere in the house, a tradition I have yet to outgrow. (Ditto with Tulips, but that’s another story). There are only a handful of Iris perfumes that I truly love. Dorina is very quickly moving up that list.

Maison Dorin was founded in the 18th century and became quite a favorite of the court of Versailles. As other perfume houses came and went, Dorin stayed ahead of the game, by constantly embracing new emerging technologies, ultimately building a lab in Paris that was the envy of competing perfume houses for decades to come. Re-energized by new owners in 1998, Dorin continues to produce gorgeous perfume, cutting no corners and never scrimping on the finest ingredients and beautiful bottles.

Dorina, released this year is classified as a floral woody musk and is Dorin’s tribute to the noble Iris.

Dorina by Dorin Perfumes 2015

Dorina by Nejla Barbir

Dorina Dorin FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rice flower, rose, aldehydes
Heart: Iris, water jasmine, violet
Base: Vetiver, cedar, heliotrope, musk, tonka bean, iris, resins

For all the notes in the formula, Dorina smells like IRIS, or rather a dreamy sun dappled Monet watercolor of the perfect Iris. Floral? Yes and sweet at times but never cloyingly so. Just beautiful, deep and sensuous Iris, root! stem, leaves and bloom. Powdery but never loud and screechy, just resplendent with quality and that certain “je ne sais quoi” through and through.

Dorina DorinDonated Robert Herrmann

From the Dorin site: “ON STAGE OR OUT ON THE DOWN, DORINA SPARKLES WITH THE LIGHT OF A THOUSAND FLAMES.”
This powdery iris fragrance has been created as a tribute to those most rare women who have become timeless icons.
Secretively screened from view by the opaque glass of the bottle, this sophisticated fragrance is the perfect accompaniment to every aspect of a talented and daring woman’s life. From home to the red carpet, she is elegant whatever the occasion.

With 28 perfumes in the range, I can’t wait to get my nose around some of the others!

Dorin has a Retailers Page where you can find your countries stockists

What are some of YOUR favorite Iris scents?

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Bleu by Daniela (Roche) Andrier for BVLGARI 2015

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Post by TinaG

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Hello APJ!

I have a soft spot for the Bvlgari tea series, as Au Thé Rouge was the first fragrance I ever wrote up for APJ and it holds special memories of that summer. And it changed my life. It all started with a travel size sample of Au Thé Rouge and subsequent hunt for and purchase of rooibos, the “rouge” tea in Au Thé Rouge. From there I started investigating styles of tea, and tea as a fragrance note. Two years later and my life is richer for these experiences; I’ve widened my knowledge of the world, found some beautiful “tea” fragrances, and thoroughly enjoy a quiet cuppa and breathing space now and then.

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Bleu by BVLGARI 2015

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Bleu by Daniela (Roche) Andrier

Eau Parfumee au The Bleu Bvlgari FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lavender, shiso
Heart: Violet, tea
Base: Iris, musk

I was excited to hear about the release last year of Au Thé Bleu, Bvlgari’s fourth in the tea series. It showcases a ‘blue’ tea accord, inspired by one of my favourite teas, Chinese oolong.

Eau Parfumee au The Bleu Bvlgari Blur tea Unsplash PixabayPixabay

Au Thé Bleu is a great cologne to both counteract and compliment a hot summers day. It opens with a smoky tea, cool lavender and subtle iris. The lavender is the star here. The fragrance stays crisp and cool for about an hour, before it warms up with a touch of tonka, giving the whole silage a comforting feel. Over the next two hours it flits around, alternating between warm and cool, supported by wonderfully light musk notes. The best way to describe the musk is clean but warm, not like a cool laundry musk. It’s sweeter, slightly in to musk-stick / lolly territory.

At 4 hours the fragrance has a peppery feel about it. I didn’t remember seeing any spicy notes listed but when I went back to Fragrantica and the Bvlgari website, there is a note listed of Shiso leaf which is described as having a peppery spicyness about it. It fits in well. As a cologne strength the dry down is surprising long-lasting, staying on my skin for about 8 hours.

Eau Parfumee au The Bleu Bvlgari Lavender Fields Angela Bethell FlickrFlickr

There is a fabulous uplifting quality to this scent, and it makes me feel as if I’m being warmed by the sun, whilst looking up at a blue summer sky across wide fields of lavender. The ‘blue’ accord is sheer and radiant – like holding up a corn-flower blue sapphire to the sun and watching the sparkles of light dance. ‘Happy’ is a simple word but the feeling of being happy can be profound. This fragrance makes me happy, it has a pureness from simplicity which is a pleasure to enjoy.

Further reading: Persolaise and Colognoisseur
David Jones has $184/150ml with FREE Australian delivery

Do you have a favourite fragrance you wear, which makes you feel happy?

Tina G xx

Not All Wrinkles Are Bad

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Post by AF Beauty

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These few weeks I have been traveling, you will be pleased, I hope, to discover I have filled my suitcase with enough goodies to start my own shop, but hopefully it’s not so much that will incur the $300 excess baggage charges….

I have a few items I’m looking forward to reviewing – but this week I’m not writing a review.

Not All Wrinkles Are Bad

Wrinkles London Unsplash PixabayPixabay

I have been here in the mother country with the people I grew up with. Some, quite literally, others I’ve known since Uni. Being here, spending time with them, it is an interesting challenge. I love many of them as though they were my family. We laugh until we cry; we talk of this that happened twenty and thirty years ago. We make plans for the next ten years and predict our futures. At the same time, we mourn deaths of the people in our lives, reminded by the loss of famous stars, already this year David Bowie and Alan Rickman and we are reminded life is short.

But while I’m here with these people, I have left behind my other family in Australia. Not my blood but my choice, people I laugh with until I cry, we talk of what happened, five and ten years ago and fill in the blanks of the other years to twenty and thirty. While I’m away, there have been laughs, deaths and changes that I’ve missed and I feel bereft that I wasn’t there for them in person. There is no substitute for a hand or hug that says more than words over email, text or Skype.

When it comes to beauty and my face, I often wish for the skin and face and condition of my youth. I teeter on the edge of aging, fighting time with a few of my favourite products but I look at furrowed forehead lines and wish for times where I never noticed it. I look at the lines at my cheeks and wonder how my years of laughter as a child has manifested in this?!

Portrait of a man, Delhi IndiaWikiMedia

But I am also thankful. Those lines tell the story of my personal stresses and pain and that of my friends and family. If they could talk, they would tell stories of poorly constructed and unfunny jokes, made funny by being unfunny. They reflect the years of emotion I’ve felt. But in honesty, while I would sometimes with for smooth skin, I would not trade any of those lines for any of my tears or laughter. Each one contributes towards the face I see in the mirror as much as the person behind that.

It used to be more that we would see a life lived in a face wrinkled with time, whereas now we see only age. Isn’t it time we started to see again that not all wrinkles are bad?

Wrinkles discutivo daniel craig omega-da-man FlickrFlickr

Some of the people I admire the most are not fresh faced teenagers but men and women who’s faces tell their story, think Dame Maggie Smith, Dame Judi Dench, Dawn French, Daniel Craig and George Cloony. I wonder if they have taken Botox over tears?!!

How do you feel about your wrinkles? Would you sign up for Botox and fillers, or are you prepared to show them as evidence of your life lived?

Versilia Vintage Boise by Profumi del Forte 2009

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Post by Joseph Sagona

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Hi APJ

Versilia Vintage Boise by Profumi del Forte 2009

Versilia Vintage Boise Profumi del Forte FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bitter orange, bergamot, vetiver
Heart: Lavender, Bourbon geranium, honey
Base: Texas cedar, Indonesian patchouli, Tonka, elemi

I get the Honey, Virginia Cedar, Indian Patchouli, Tonka Bean and Lavender and Geranium, it opens up with a smoky, lemon tinged geranium and a bitter, soapy lavender, strong geranium and the lavender is mild. Twenty minutes in and the lavender and bitterness dissipates, in comes a warm, vanilla tinged Tonka bean, and a sweet, syrupy honey, the Tonka is soft and mild honey. After three hours the geranium and Tonka dissipate, the honey softens, in comes a dry, piney, Virginia Cedar, and an earthy with a touch of dirtiness patchouli, the Virginia Cedar is mild and the Indonesian patchouli is soft.

Versilia Vintage Boise Profumi del Forte Marshmallows_in_soft_yellow_and_blue_light WikimediaWikiMedia

Versilia Vintage Boise reminds me of Thierry Mugler’s B’Men and Yohji Homme Yamamoto. B’Men is spicy, musky and woodier, Yamamoto is softer, sweeter and boozy.

This is a really lovely spicy, woody composition, that is very warm, vibrant, appealing, timeless, well balanced, smooth, with a little bit of character and flare.

Versilia Vintage Boise is a very, aromatic, fresh, balmy, slightly dirty, high quality, medicinal nuances, with soft citric undertones Oriental Woody fragrance. This can be worn all year ’round, it would be better suited for the Spring and Summer, I get average projection and average longevity, this was a great offering from Profumi del Forte.

From LuckyScent: “Being last in admiration for the wonder of the pinewood, while all around the world seethed with protest and marches: Versilia, isle of happiness in the magma of the Sixties. I reached the beach following the longest route, emerging amoung the shadows and silence of the residential areas, only to cast my boyish eye on the gardens full of flowers, to read the story of their creation in the pine bark, to enjoy that perfect concerto of aromas and wellbeing. Today I have rewritten those melodies on a pentagram of essences, with perfumed notes and rhythms of rediscovered serenity.”

Versilia Vintage Boise Profumi del Forte viareggio simone_giannini Pixabay

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies
LuckyScent has $170/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

Do you like the line?
Portia xx

10 Mysterious Extinct Human Species : Video

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

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Post by Portia

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So APJ,

Do you want to see something fabulous? It’s always a surprise to find out something wonderful about our world. Before this video I had heard of only two of the other species of humanoids on the earth, that there were ten or even more is surprising to say the least. That only some of them have added to our gene pool is also interesting, most going extinct 40,000 years or more ago.

Mind blown,
Enjoy.
Portia xx

10 Mysterious Extinct Human Species YouTubeYouTube

10 Mysterious Extinct Human Species

Bulgari Jasmin Noir by Carlos Benaim and Sophie Labbe for BVLGARI 2008

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

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Post by Portia

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Heya APJ Family,

Since 2008 I have longed to wear this fragrance. Every now and then I give myself a spritz in the mall but it’s too busy there to contemplate fragrance and Jasmin Noir doesn’t seem to be big enough to maintain my attention when otherwise occupied. So I bought a decant, now I get to spend some time in peaceful surroundings and really test drive it. Don’t worry, my expectations are very low but sometimes you just have to scratch the itch.

Bulgari Jasmin Noir by BVLGARI 2008

Bulgari Jasmin Noir by Carlos Benaim and Sophie Labbe

Jasmin Noir Bvlgari FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Gardenia, Green plant juice
Heart: Jasmine sambac absolute, Almond
Base: Precious woods, Glycyrrhiza, Tonka bean absolute

Sheer radiant sappy floral, pretty and slightly plastic smelling that is airy and sparse. This fresh greenness never really points to one flower but smells to me like an amorphous white floral bouquet and when the jasmine arrives it feels fizzy and metallic, are there some aldehydes hidden in the mix? As far as flowers go my skin is throwing floral holograms rather than the flowers themselves, space flowers, crystal floral replicas. I am just not getting the notes I’m supposed to be smelling, except the green plant juice. Green plant juice and woods as if what I’m smelling is in a dream about standing next to a council shredder and they are putting through leafy branches of soft stemmed plants like hydrangea, tied old air conditioning and maybe some arum lilies, there is a petroleum/exhaust hint too that I would normally love. They must have used the cleanest isolates of flowers or chemical representations of them.

Jasmin Noir Bvlgari Fragrantica adPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

I wanted to like this, was ready to love it and buy one of those gorgeous bottles, but sadly on me Jasmin Noir smells bad. My skin throws some awful thing up at me that is not the way I would like to be, or imagine myself, smelling. Sorry if it’s your favourite, more power to you if it smells better on you than me.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Shrine
FragranceNet has $50/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples has $7/5ml

Do you ever crave to try something even though you’re 98% sure that it’s going to be a complete failure? Does Jasmin Noir work on you? I’d love to read reports of it being fabulous.
Portia xx

N.B. If you hit the My Perfume Samples link and shop I get a kickback.

L`Interdit Givenchy: LIVE Video Sniff

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

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Post by Portia

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Hey Happy Huffers,

This is one of Scott’s favourite fragrances. To be honest I’d never knowingly sniffed it. He loves it, and has loved it for years. It was really lovely of him to bring his amazing parfum find for us to do an opening video of, it’s nice to share the moment.

L`Interdit by Francis Fabron for Givenchy 1957

LIVE Video Sniff

L`Interdit Givenchy FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, spices, mandarin orange, peach, bergamot, strawberry
Heart: Iris, violet, narcissus, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, rose
Base: Sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, vetiver, tonka bean

If you have never smelled vintage L’Interdit parfum do yourself a favour and stay far away from its loveliness. Who needs an expensive, discontinued, nightmare to find obsession?

Mitsouko by Guerlain vintage parfum C1988

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Vintage Frag Freaks,

You know I’m a bit of a Guerlainophile? Well, I rather like their work. Recently I picked up a little bottle of the parfum, used but still about 80% full, in the iconic bottle, only 7.5ml. Well I can’t stop dabbing it. It sits here on my desk and calls to me with its luscious sweet fruity dryness and what can I do but indulge?

Mitsouko by Guerlain vintage parfum C1988

Mitsouko Guerlain vintage parfum Jan 2016
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin, Neroli, Jasmine, Rose
Heart: Peach, Rose, Clove, Ylang-Ylang, Lilac, Jasmine
Base: Oakmoss, Labdanum, Patchouli, Benzoin, Vetiver, Cinnamon

Tonight, quite late, I drew the bath and put some Radox Bath Salts in. About half way through the running I decided to add in 15 drops of Jo Malone Red Roses Bath Oil. Suddenly the room smelled unbelievable, deep, blood red roses, dry black tea and the crackle of split branch and wood. We are having an unseasonal summer cold snap so I made the water lovely and hot. An hour later I arose like an extremely obese Birth of Venus both clean and rosy, rosy skin and smell.

Jo Malone Red Roses Bath Oil

Having come back to my desk afterwards I had thought I’d wear Mohur or Ballets Rouges but instead decided to dab myself like crazy with Mitsouko. MMMMMMM I smell freaking amazing and the rosy underlay has definitely amped the rosy nature of Mitsouko and given it a whole new more austere and aloof mien than usual. It’s different but lovely, different enough to be a rose Mitsouko flanker and I for me the Red Roses adds a lightness and freshness that is very modern, is there a bunch of white musk under Red Roses? I’m getting them even if there isn’t.

Mitsoujko Guerlain Verschoren_Rose_Katja_1970 WikipediaWikipedia

Still Mitsouko but slightly changed, some air between the heavily constructed, dense, historic notes. An extra swish and zing from the 21st century yet still laid over the intricate, nuanced and slightly dirty grace of one of the most revered fragrances in the books.

Now I have applied a second layer of extrait over the same spots as before and the Mitsouko is pretty much back to normal now. Maybe because I have rose on my mind there is still a large overblown old fashioned fruity cabbage rose in my olfactory picture but the other notes like clove, peach, ylang and amber are much more prominent and noticeable. HA! Maybe I just needed more Mitsouko juice on my skin?

This morning, I wake up to the softest thrill of something not quite me above my skin. My guess is oakmoss and vanilla from Mitsouko and some white musks from Red Roses, it shimmers above my skin but is not really a fragrance. It’s the ghost of the memory of being fragrant.

Mitsouko Guerlain Winter's Morning in Somerset GeographGeograph

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Persolaise
Mitsouko can be tried at any department store with a Guerlain counter for FREE. Go spritz lavishly.
Surrender To Chance have vintage parfum samples starting at $10/0.25ml

Please tell us your Mitsouko story? I’d love to read it.
Portia xx