Pitti Fragranze 12 + Idiosyncratic Perfume Behaviour

September 12, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 27 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Pitti Fragranze 12

Hello Fabulous APJ readers.

I am going to Florence on Thursday to attend the Pitti Fragranze 12. This is the international perfume fair event that brings the best, and perhaps not the best, in artistic perfumery to the beautiful city of Florence. New fragrances will be launched, older ones revisited. To say I am excited would be an understatement. I have and Australian Perfume Junkies Press Pass. Honoured.

Photo Donated Val

I look forward to the opportunity of trying new fragrances and mingling with perfume folk. I have also attended bike shows, both in the US and in Europe. Which has nothing to do with perfume. Or does it? My husband is a bike freak and I a perfumista. But does that mean that every bike or every perfume at these shows is good? It does not. One has to search for what is best for you and THAT is the thrill of attending. We go well informed but eyes open for something to blow our minds. The older I get the less mind I have left to blow. 🙂

Val the Cookie Queen’s X Special batch of Lavender Pitti Shortbread

FULL MONTY WORTHY?

Idiosyncratic Perfume Behaviour

Photo Stolen IMDb (any problems tell us)

I try many fragrances but wear only a small selection. Trying means spraying wrists, elbow crooks, you know how it goes. Walking round with your nose surgically attached to your wrist kind of thing. Wearing means going The Fully Monty and being comfortable with it. And the truth of the matter is I am scared to death to do that with most frags. I was talking to Portia the other day and he was surprised when I told him that I only wear seven or eight perfumes. The rest are just wafting from my wrist, waiting to see if they make the grade. I know, I know perfume is subjective. I am way to scared to grab a scent and spritz with wild abandon. I own very few full bottles comparatively speaking. Like most of us I have a fair number of decants. This fear of going the whole nine yards does nothing at all to curb my perfume obsession, but I am überpicky. Mention woody notes and I´m gone ……..

FMW this year included:

All .vero.profumo. fragrances in all forms
Chanel. Cuir de Russie and Bois de Iles – Edt and Extrait, Coromandel, 31 Rue Cambon
Malle. Eau de Magnolia
Serge Lutens. Boxeuses, Rose de Nuit, Cuir Mauresque
En Voyage. Zelda
Amouage. Opus III, Beloved, Ubar

I have a list of at least 25 to check out in Florence. I reckon, law of averages, there might be a FMW bottle amongst them?

So dear readers, do you go the whole caboodle with everything, the whole shebang, no fear involved regardless? I would be very interested
to know.

I will report back.

Ciao
CQ

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger reviews

August 26, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 45 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger is a family run company founded in 1998 by Virginie and Antoine Roux. French. Côte d’Azur. Their perfume line was launched in 2005/2006. They also do chocolates, decorations, oils, mustards, honey and of course orange flower water, to mention but a few, but we´ll just be taking a brief look at three of their perfumes today. The do have a mouthwatering Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger website though!

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger

Oranges, Roses and Lavenders – Timeless Beauties

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lavender, bergamot
Heart: Cinnamon, rose, cedar
Base: Amber, patchouli, leather, musk

Lavande Ombrée by Jean-Claude Gigodot 2013

Lavande Ombreé is very leathery. Now I love leather, but blended with a smoky lavender it is perhaps better suited to a bloke. ( One has to be so careful!) Lots of birch tar, lavender and as it develops, a lurking rose appears. Add that to a hunk in a biker jacket and it could be quite the combo – for anyone!!

Photo Donated Val CQ

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange blossom, sicilian bergamot, mandarin orange
Heart: Jasmine, rose, fruits
Base: Cedar, vanilla, musk, sandalwood

Neroli Blanc Intense by Jean-Claude Gigodot 2005

My favourite orange is a Terry´s chocolate one.

Neroli Blanc is a big time fragrance. No hiding your light under a bushel with this. It is thick and syrupy and packs a punch. Laced with jasmine and vanilla, hovering on a rich musky base, it warms you to the bone. Glamourous. Perfect for partying on the yacht dancing the night away. It comes in a serious chunk of glass. It weighs 400 grams, including the perfume. That should give you an idea. Very striking. Check out Bonkers About Perfume take on Neroli Blanc Intense.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, orange, vermouth
Heart: Almond, rose, iris, ylang-ylang
Base: Woody notes, cedar, patchouli, musk, vanilla, sandalwood

Rose Iriseé by Jean-Claude Gigodot 2014

This opens with with a bright burst of Iris. Metallic and smooth. I expected rose. This irisean (?) burst however gives way quite quickly to a lush, velvety rose. It is perfectly lovely. Do not be deceived. It becomes very seductive as it heads into the dry down phase. Patchouli, vanilla, and musk entwine with the rose. Charming with a retro vibe. This is hands down my favourite of today´s three.

All of these have great longevity and proper perfume stages. They are beautifully executed. Go see the site Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger<<JUMP

Photo Stolen hemodernhome

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 Winners who will all get:

Decanted spray sample of
Lavande Ombrée
Neroli Blanc Intense
Rose Iriseé
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us which of todays Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger reads most you and why

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger + GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-377 #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Friday 29th August 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by armadillo, deceased
The winners will have till Monday 1st September 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Bussis
CQ

With thanks to Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger for the übergenerous samples. APJ will pass the love on!

Library Collection OPUS III by Karine Vinchon Spehner for Amouage 2010

August 12, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

It might take time, but there is surely an Amouage for everyone. The Library Collection is described as being “a poetic homage to the art of living”. I don´t know what that means but it sounds romantic. The Collection defies current trends, are gender neutral, and categorization. I rather like most of them, with the exception of Opus VI. (I once stupidly over-applied this, and then proceeded to bake. It nearly killed me.) Opus III is the jewel of the collection for me.

Please go enter our Ramon Monegal coming to Australia GIVEAWAY<<JUMP

Library Collection OPUS III by Karine Vinchon Spehner for Amouage 2010

OPUS III: Violets, Cats and Three Teaspoons of Perfume

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mimosa, broom (Dyer’s Greenweed), cloves, nutmeg, thyme
Heart: Violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom
Base: Ambrette, papyrus, musk, cedar wood, sandalwood, Guaiac, benzoin, vanilla

I love violets. The Parma Violet sweets from my childhood, the Italian violet candies, and violet perfume. I used to have Devon Violet perfume as a child, purchased on rainy caravan holidays in the West Country, donkey rides included. I am not keen on the colour violet, but as the flowers themselves range from violet and blue, to yellow, white and cream it doesn´t matter. Freshly opened violets look stunning in salads. Violets are apparently known as having a “flirty” fragrance , as the scent comes and goes!! “Violet Day” was a day of remembrance in Australia, honouring the First World War dead. “The symbol of perpetual remembrance for these gallant dead who have given their lives for their country.” 1970 saw the last celebration of Violet Day.

Photo Stolen Flickr

The Violet Cream of the Crop

Opus III is all about violets. Thick and rich, creamy caramelized violets, with broom and mimosa kickstarting the whole fragrant brew. Not the typical violet of make-up, nor of Malle´s Lipstick Rose. It is full bodied and voluptuous, not to be confused with feminine. It is equally as suitable for a bloke. There are so many notes listed, as in all the Amouage perfumes. They highlight the violet and it glows throughout. Resinous violet, sprinkled with spiced vanilla and a smidgin of yang-ylang, ever shifting. It is not however a gourmand fragrance.

Photo Donated Val CQ

Although my cat doesn´t know that. She loves Opus III and will lick and chew it off whenever possible. I have spritzed 15 mls in the last month. That is three teaspoons. That is a whole lot of Amouage. It is very seductive, like spraying on another facet of yourself.

Opus III is not überdramatic, nor it is too rich. It is subtly stunning and lasts for hours. Sillage to die for. What more could you want? No worries if you don´t like violets either, because there are seven more of the Library Collection to explore. I am just starting on II, IV and V.

Today we wear the clinging violet
In memory of the brave,
While ever thoughts of fond but proud regret,
Come surging wave on wave.
Alexandra Seager
Dedicated to her son George, killed in Gallipoli

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and The Non Blonde
First In Fragrance has €295/100ml
Libertine Parfumerie has $418/100ml with FREE postage within Australia
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

Fragrant Bussis
CQ

With grateful thanks to Sandra who gave me SO much!!

Jaunty Capers, Cemeteries and The Rose That Got Away: London July 2014

August 3, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 30 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Hi APJ,

I couldn´t have been more excited as I got up on Wednesday. Finally the dreamed of, talked about, preplanned days were here.

Unlike Vanessa from the fabulous Bonkers About Perfume, I have no clothing crises. For I have none. Not to speak of anyway. Long jeans in winter. Cut-off jeans in summer. I prefer to spend my money on red lipstick, and the odd bag of groceries for the family. When my shoes hurt I go barefoot.

Jaunty Capers, Cemeteries and The Rose That Got Away

Random ramblings from a week in London

I left for Les Senteurs from Muswell Hill, the infamous address, early enough to not be late for my date with the gorgeous Tara from Olfactoria`s Travels. We both arrived early and waited for Callum the Dashing to arrive and let us in. Perfumistas waiting on the doorstep.

We hit the sofa talking. After a while Flamingo Nick, Penhaligon´s Fragrant Ambassador arrived, bringing a burst of sunshine into the room with him.I already knew I was going to buy Malle`s Eau de Magnolia and asked Callum to put a large bottle on the side. The small ones were sold out and there was no tester to triple reconfirm that I wanted it. I would pick it up the next day when Vanessa was with us too. So onto the much praised Papillons. I was so excited to try these and planned to purchase one. I sprayed with gay abandon and waited …….

Nick, Tara and I headed to the Gorilla Perfume Gallery for the presentation of the new 12 fragrances. Entitled: Death, Decay and Renewal. A pop-up in the basement of Phonica Records on Poland Street. (See Nick Gilbert<< JuMP) This was quite the display. Mushrooms, sandalwood smuggling, stroboscopic dream machines designed by William Burroughs ……… Clearly NOT Guerlain.

Starting to fall in love with Papillon’s Tobacco Rose, we headed on for tea and sandwiches and a quick Liberty´s heist. Nick scored himself a bottle of Superoud from Comme de Garçons and headed off into the sunset. Fear not, we would meet again.

Selfridge´s and iced matcha, including a wicked brain freeze, saw Tara and I heading home.

That evening after spraying again I decided I would buy the Tobacco Rose. Because it is beguiling.

Tara and Vanessa pretty much covered this second day of fragrant flitterings. (Bonkers About Perfume and Olfactoria´s Travels) What can I add? The Guerlain Royal Extract at 280 quid for 125 mls – 900 bottles limited edition, exclusive to Harrod`s? A pretty pale, kind of watered down Fairy Liquid colour? I think not. Based on the exquisite Attrape Coeur, but missed the mark. (All opinions totally my own!)

Now I was not exactly kicking and screaming when I went up to Roja Dove´s Barbie Palace, but it was close. Bright and shiny and no room to swing a cat. The visit was saved by Benjamin, the on hand sales assistant. He was so nice, totally knowledgable, and actually seemed to think he could turn around my preconceived ideas of RD and the other fragrances for the “Bros”. He could not. It would be remiss of me not to say that I did allow him to give me a pretty decent spray of the “semi-bespoke” (can you hear me laughing????) RD Private Collection No 9. Limited to 50 bottles. It was actually pretty nice for the first 20 minutes. Unlike Benjamin who was nice for the whole time.

Tara and I went to the Amouage stand alone store, hoping to try the Amouage Attars. Sadly because of people buying them, diluting them with alcohol and then selling them on EBay by the millilitre they have been removed. How annoying is that? Very.

“I`d ski naked down Mount Everest” to meet Vanessa, but luckily we only had to go to Covent Garden Tube station. Long lunch, including a number of jaunty capers, and a good chinwag and off to Penhaligon´s to meet up, once again with our very favourite Fragrant Ambassador. I was wonderfully surprised by the sensual beauty of Tralala and can see myself having a bottle one day. The Chucky Child´s Play bottle decoration was a little haunting, but I think I could get over it. Nick sent me off with a good stash of Penhaligon´s samples and I look forward to getting to know them.

Off we went to Les Senteurs. My heart beating a little faster as I prepared to make my purchases. We flopped once again on the sofa, kicked off shoes, fixed blisters and I bought Eau de Magnolia. Straight out of the fridge. I then asked for my Tobacco Rose. SOLD OUT.

WHAT??? You have got to be bloody kidding me Callum. But it´s intoxicating, boozy, and kind of jammy. There are two different roses, Bulgarian and Rose Centifolia. Oakmoss lurks, a great favourite of mine. It is smoky and beeswaxy. Thick without being sweet. It lasts for hours and never stays the same. I don´t have a rose. And I want this. For the moment though it´s the rose that got away. I should have ordered it the day before but I was trying to be sensible. Sigh. I compensate by spraying a ton of Magnolia and pass out with the beauty. I´ll live.

We spent the next three hours, or was it more, having tea and eating Indian food. Talking and sharing more about ourselves. Building friendships.

And so it ended. All leaving from the same station, Tara to the left and Vanessa and me to the right. The trains came in so fast we had no time to say goodbye. But it´s only Adieu.

The following day I went to Highgate Cemetery. This trip was on my Bucket List. The place absolutely blew my mind. The guide was straight out of an Agatha Christie and the lady that was constantly by me in the group was wearing Mitsouko. It was an extremely heavy and lovely version, so I am guessing it might have been an earlier incarnation, because it sure doesn´t smell like that now. What a perfect ending to my aromatic and perfumed adventures.

But it wasn´t quite the end was it? Antonio Gardoni from Bogue Perfumes met up and shared a coconut water with me, including copious sprays of MAAI. Comrades! – MAAI is not for the faint-hearted. More later ……..

I am now back to making cookie dough.

Bussis

CQ xxx

All photos donated by Val the Cookie Queen

Captured In Amber EdP & Extrait by Shelley Waddington for En Voyage Perfumes 2014

July 29, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 27 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

I don´t like amber. It´s not for lack of trying. I always thought I would be the perfect amber babe. After all I adore patchouli and it´s the same right? Actually it´s not. When I fell for Captured in Amber I thought that the amber part of my brain had finally been unlocked. I got hold of 5 different ambers ready to love them all. I didn´t. I found them as flat and one dimensional and nauseating as they ever were. It is not my wont to knock other perfumes/perfumers but suffice it to say they included Dior´s Mitzah, which is just not made f or me. (I think Dior can handle it!). Not my cup of tea. Or should I say chocolate?

The Spanish conquistadors first brought chocolate to France in 1615. It was only for the nobility and upper bourgeoisie. It was all the rage at the Court of Versailles. At that time it was cheaper to buy a prostitute than it was chocolate. Chocolate was recognized for its aphrodisiacal qualities so I have know doubt that there were those who purchased both! In 1770 when Marie- Antoinette married Louis XVI, she arrived at the court with her own chocolate maker along with the title “Chocolate Maker to the Queen”. Cocoa beans only became accessible to the public in the 19th century.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Shelley Waddington informs us that Marie Antoinette also took a little ambergris in her hot chocolate. Marie-A also wore perfume using ambergris. Madame du Barry supposedly bathed with ambergris to attract Louis XV. It was known as “dragon´s spittle fragrance” in ancient China, and was believed to ward off the black plague in the Middle Ages. It too has been attributed with aphrodisiac power as well as healing properties.

Captured In Amber EdP & Extrait by En Voyage Perfumes 2014

Captured In Amber by Shelley Waddington

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Ambergris, labdanum, vanilla, tonka bean, floral notes, spices, woody notes, olibanum, resin, peru balsam, tolu balsum, benzoin, patchouli, myrrh, dark chocolate

Captured in Amber is part of the Souvenir de Chocolate Trio from En Voyage Perfumes. It is utterly delicious, three dimensional and not a hint of powder to be seen. So with chocolate and ambergris? We have an erotic fragrant bomb on our hands.

CAPTURED IN AMBER: EDP

It goes on in a powerful chocolate, sweet, veil of perfection, a nosegasm. It is rounded and complete. A 3D effect. Although it is rich it is not cloying. Very grown up and sensual but comforting too. After several hours of subtle spicy development it slowly ends up being salty and musky, which is how I imagine real ambergris to be. Nevertheless there is till a dusting of chocolate there. It reminds me of the crushed cocoa nibs that I use to bake with. Chocolatey but not sweet. The components of Captured in Amber EdP are blended to perfection. A seamless fragrant ride. This needs to go straight onto naked skin. Skin enhances.

Photo Stolen Flickr

CAPTURED IN AMBER: EXTRAIT

Not just a stronger version of the EdP. This is not as sweet and is made to be annointed. It is so rich, distinctive, highly seasoned, poignant, smoooooth, and erotic ……… gorgeous!! I would hardly call it an amber, as to my untrained amber nose, the amber doesn´t make a clear appearance until after a couple of hours. I cannot lift my nose away from my wrist.

The Extrait is quite thick, but didn´t seem like an oil. It intrigued me so I got in touch with En Voyage Perfumes and asked Shelley what it was.

Shelley uses an alcohol based perfume carrier. This is blended with another non-oil ingredient that smooths the sharp blast typical to alcohol, and this is somewhat thick. Because it is an extrait, the resins and some of the other ingredients are heavier and thicker than the more typical perfume materials. That´s enough secrets of the trade huh?

En Voyage Perfumes have a selection of Captured In Amber<<JUMP

For the first time I am Captured in Amber.

Bussis
CQ

Junky by Anais Biguine for Jardins D’Ecrivains 2014

July 15, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 25 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Some perfume names give us a preconceived idea of the vibe of the fragrance in question. I was keen to get my nose on this from the minute I heard of it. I was born at the end of the fifties which threw me into the Punk Generation at exactly the right time. Had I been born earlier I like to think that I would have been part of the Beat Generation. This group consisted of a groups of American post World War II writers who came to the fore in the 1950s. The main elements of this “Beat” culture included experimentation with drugs, an interest in religion, alternative sexualities, a rejection of materialism and some unrestrained portrayals of the human condition. The best known writers and examples of the Beat Literature are probably William Burroughs (who wrote Junky), Allen Ginsberg, and Jack Kerouac.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

It was Kerouac who coined the phrase “Beat Generation”. Thanks to the punk era into which I was thrown – I was turned onto the Beat Generation literature. Junky, Naked Lunch and On the Road being my top three reads.

Junky by Anais Biguine for Jardins D’Ecrivains 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica Gives these featured accords:
Top: Hemp, Palisander Rosewood, Galbanum
Heart: Iris, Violet, Gardenia
Base: Cashmeran, cedar, vetiver, incense, juniper, moss and myrtle (From Jardins D’Ecrivains box: Cashmeran, Cedar, Javanese vetiver, Sweet myrrhe, Frankincense, Cade, Moss)

So Jardins D’Ecrivains taking on Junky as a literary influence for a perfume was really quite formidable and perhaps a little abstract.

Green, green, green. Thick and ferocious. Straight to the amygdala, located deep within the brain. The hemp, combined with galbanum is legally intoxicating. Sticky and skunky and did I mention green?. I wish this moment would last forever but that might be too much to bear. It slides effortlessly into the beautifully smooth middle notes. This is very pleasurable and comfortable. Heady but controlled. Three beautiful floral notes intertwined one with another. And then the comedown. In this case, it is soft and sweet and lasts some hours. Quite dry, but a narcotic sweet feel nonetheless. It harks back to the opening green notes. A clever twist. It´s funny what a name can do. I was wondering if Jardins D’Ecrivains had called this Peter Pan, would it have made my experience any different? I think not. It would have just have been a wasted Peter Pan!

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

Jardins D’Ecrivains succeeded with the Junky vibe. I was impressed with the journey that Junky takes you on. From the instant hit, to the agreeable middle, and a peaceful descent. Unlike the real thing.

Absolutely worth checking out. You could read the book too.

With thanks to First in Fragrance who rushed me a generous sample upon request.

First in Fragrance has €93/100ml and samples

“Silence is only frightening to people who are compulsively verbalizing.” William S. Burroughs

Bussis
CQ

Roja Dove: Amber Oud 2012 + Lily Extrait 2014

June 24, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 46 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Roja Dove

THE EMPEROR´S NEW PERFUME OR IS MY NOSE KNACKERED?

Roja Dove Amber Oud 2012 and Lily Extrait 2014

The nose behind these two fragrances is Roja Dove “Master Perfumer”. Fragrances rumoured to be made by Roberetet, a company that works with an international team of 32 perfumers. The whole line of Roja Dove´s work interests me not. On saying that I have had a secret desire to try at least a couple of them to see what, if anything might actually warrant the price.

Hans Christian Andersen’s The Emperor´s New Clothes was published in 1837 in Denmark. The phrase “The Emperor´s New Clothes” has become a standard metaphor for just about anything that smacks of showy pretentiousness, social hypocrisy, hollow ostentatiousness, pomposity and so on. The more something is praised the more it can become a thing of great, but perhaps imagined, beauty ……….

Photo Stolen BookDepository ($6.75 including postage)

I swapped cookies for generous samples of Amber Oud and Lily Extrait.

Roja Dove: Amber Oud 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, lime
Heart: Jasmine, rose, yang-ylang, fig
Base: Agarwood, birch, cinnamon, oakmoss, patchouli, saffron, sandalwood, ambergris, civet, musk, orris root

Amber Oud falls into the oriental spicy fragrance group for men and women. It costs around 655 Euros for 100 mls.

Wow.

Sound fabulous? It is nice, harmonious and safe. Read – boring. For a perfume that uses Oud in it´s name, I would expect to see a more dominant use of it. There is nothing unique about this.. Call me snotty if you will but I would desire something that cries out “fabulousness and originality” if I was paying that price for it. It is quite smooth, but is smooth enough? I read that it´s a beast, luxurious, undeniably exquisite, opulent. Hmmmmm. Emperor´s New Perfume? Or is my nose is knackered?

Roja Dove: Lily Extrait 2014

Photo Stolen First In Fragrance

First In Fragrance gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon
Heart: Jasmine, lily, rose, tiare blossom, lily of the valley, carnation, ylang-ylang
Base: Clove, woods, vanilla, musk.

About 365 Euros for 50 mls. “I have always loved the exotic, enveloping, carnal, sensual warmth of this majestic flower.” Roja Dove. Oh.

It starts off a lot like Serge Luten´s Un Lys, which I love. It grooves along with the similarity for about an hour or so. Then the Lily Extrait takes a sharp turn into sweetness, where the Un Lys
gets musky and dirty. Lily Extrait stays sweet and pretty and linear. It does remind me of an übersweet bubble gum that I used to chew as a kid and I cannot get that out of my mind. The longevity of it is epic. I got at least 14 hours out of it. I could still smell it in the morning. I am singing the great Lonnie Donegan´s hit “Does Your Chewing Gum Lose Its Flavour on the Bedpost Overnight?” as I write this.

First In Fragrance has both to sample

So for a good 1000 Euros, that is about $1350 I could have both of these, including the nice bottles? Astonishing.

Meanwhile, back to the football.

Bussis
CQ

"14°S 48°E” EdP Natural Terroir Perfume by Vero Kern for Richard Lüscher Britos 2013

June 10, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 37 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Hi APJ,

Malvin Richard, Lukas Lüscher and Serena Britos (RLB) contacted Vero Kern with regards to creating a fragrance for their project. Unique fragrances, created around and characterized by certain landscapes, plants and people. Hence “Terroir”. (Please jump to Olfactoria’s Travels and read the account of my visit to the launch!)

I wondered how Vero Kern got involved in this fascinating project, so I asked her! They did not know each other. RLB contacted Vero when they were looking for perfumers for their project. They knew of her from various press articles and blogs. Conveniently, they all live in Switzerland too! Vero fell in love with the concept from the beginning. especially with their Terroir philosophy. She felt that it fit in very well with her personal goals in perfumery. It was a distinct advantage of course that Vero had started her scent career with aromatherapy. Working with
natural materials requires experience.

“14°S 48°E” EdP Natural Terroir Perfume by Vero Kern

for Richard Lüscher Britos 2013

MADAGASCAR “14°S 48°E” – Confidence in the Unknown

Please look at the website: it explains clearly here the three levels of each fragrance. Each of the Terroir perfumers were briefed; the materials they would chose needed to correspond with these levels, the core of the Terroir concept.

Vero´s choices included:

Top: Green mandarin, Bergamotte, Citron
Heart: Ylang Ylang (the main star of 14°S 48°E) Frangipani, Pink Pepper
Base: Vetiver, Cacao, Vanille, Tolu

“Madagascar is known for its incredible biodiversity …… a melting pot of cultures …… the Ambanja forests …….”

The Terroirs are only made from natural raw materials.

Now is the part where I should tell you how it smells. I have been wearing this more on than off for the last five weeks. Walking around with my nose glued to various parts of my body is not the best way to enjoy this glorious fragrance. I realized that when my daughter walked into the room and commented on the lovely vanilla smell. I couldn´t detect that in close proximity. There is a killer burst of sour citrus as the beginning which is totally invigorating. It slides seamlessly into a quite spicy and slightly bitter bouquet, balmy and relaxing. Ylang Ylang buzzing around like a bee. The vetiver is earthy. The vanilla cunning!

My first try out of 14°S 48°S was in the winter. It was nice, but something was being held back. It is completely different in the heat. It thrives in the warmth and releases its aromatic secrets more willingly. I don´t have much experience with naturals, but I would say this is quite tenacious as it lasts, liberally sprayed, about 6 hours on my skin. The flaçons are fabulous.

I am sat here in a big cloud of it: a huge .vero.profumo. fan (have I ever mentioned that) and it has been an absolute pleasure to be able to try some of Vero Kern´s other work. A million thanks to the fabulous Vero for her help and photo and to Lukas for the generous samples.

All naturally yours
CQ

Photos Donated by Val CQ

“14°S 48°E” EdP Natural Terroir Perfume GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will each get:
1 x “14°S 48°E” EdP sample
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

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Entries Close Friday 15th June 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
I will crack out my dead armadillo, which did not come from Madagascar, pop the names into it, and get one of the kids to pick one.
The winners will have till Tuesday 19th June 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

CHANEL Cuir de Russie (Les Exclusifs de Chanel) by Jaques Polge for CHANEL 1983

May 27, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 29 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

First composed by Master Perfumer Ernest Beaux 1927
and retuned by Jaques Polge in 1983

CHANEL Cuir de Russie by Jaques Polge for CHANEL 1983

(Les Exclusifs de Chanel)

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featureed acciords:
Top: Tunisian orange blossom, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin
Heart: Jasmine, oriental rose, ylang-ylang, oriental notes
Base: Albanian birch wood, tobacco, musk, leather

Cuir de Russie = Sybaritic Grandueur (Sybaritic – pertaining to or characteristic of a sybarite; characterized by or loving luxury or sensuous pleasure)

I have waited so long for this moment. I have had tiny samples, a lovely small dab bottle and finally a large decant. Being able to spray without a care really does make such a difference.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

You know instantly it´s a Chanel classic, even not being familiar with the scent itself. It is so beautiful that I am sat here at a loss for words. Cuir de Russie has been written about so many times there is not really much I can add. Perhaps though there is someone out there reading about it for the first time. This then is for you.

Cuir de Russie, or Russian leather was quite the modern theme around the end of the 19th century. Women were smoking cigarettes and perfume houses were coming up with fragrances for them. Women who smoked were scandalous and Cuir de Russie was provocative and shocking, which was its purpose.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

From the CHANEL Website: “The tumultuous events in Russian history offered Mademoiselle Chanel the opportunity to meet the Grand Duke Dimitri, who introduced her to an ingenious perfumer: Ernest Beaux, born and trained in Moscow. In 1927, she worked with him to create Cuir de Russie. Through long musky, smoky notes, it evokes a wild yet elegant world, with its scent of leather boots tanned by birch bark and the essence of Virginia tobacco.”

It is smoky and leathery, but it is softened by the sweet and lush floral notes. It is incredibly feminine, sensual and warm. It enticingly wraps itself around you like a smokescreen. It is elegantly animalic. It makes me feel fabulous.

Photo donated Val CQ

And when you work out after a long day, Cuir de Russie is reignited in the sweat. And it´s ravishing. It is your duty, if you haven´t already, to at least try this.

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Olfactoria’s Travels
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml
You can try and purchase Cuir de Russie at most CHANEL boutiques and some CHANEL specialty stores

Cuir de Russie is who I was and who I am now.

Classic Mimosa by Camille Henfling Jr for Von Eusersdorff 2011

May 13, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 28 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Yeah, right. Classic Mimosa? Thoughts of wedding bouquets and baby breath fillers in my head. That is exactly what I want to smell of. Not.

I have had a good sized sample sat around in my perfume stash for a while now. I have disorders when it comes to fragrance, as we all do. I have a lot, and wear but a few, and I am apprehensive, nay, scared to death to try something totally new on my skin. Eventually I succumb.

Fresh out of the shower I took my chances and administered an ample spritz of …

Classic Mimosa by Camille Henfling Jr for Von Eusersdorff 2011

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, bergamot, green leaves
Heart: Mimose, violet, rose, sea notes
Base: Musk, orange blossom, vanilla

From the Von Eusersdorff site: “Floral designs ubiquitous from the end of the nineteenth century are rare today ………… The design for the Von Eusersdorff label brings back the flower as the traditional ornament for fragrances.” “Inspiringly Different Fragrances.”

This is an enchanting fragrance. To say I was stunned would be an understatement. I didn´t see that coming. It is really classy and smells expensive. It is very feminine. Opening with a burst of citrus, it quickly goes into flower mode. Violet, rose, and of course the mimosa. None of the flowers really take a star roll. I can smell the violet because I am into violet at the moment and make an effort to locate it when I know it is in a fragrance. Despite how it sounds it is not overly sweet, and hovers in a gorgeous haze over the skin. As it goes into the dry down it does warm up with vanilla, and becomes a little musky. It remains fresh and light throughout, smelling as beautiful at the end as it did at the beginning. For spring, summer and the office and any other time you need a lift.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Camille Henfling Jr is the creative maestro behind the Von Eusersdorff label, and is actually a descendant of the Von Eusersdorff family. The German family traded in rare oils and flower essences for more than three centuries. Camille Henfling Jr. studied in Grasse to hone his skills, and stepped in to revamp the family business.

The line was launched in 2010 with Classic Patchouli. Also included in the five fragrance line up is Classic Myrrh, Classic Vetiver and Classic Orange.

I have used up nearly 10mls now. Undisputedly fabulous. It is timeless, chic, elegant and smart. Just like me. Not.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Smelly Thoughts and Epiphany
First In Fragrance have €115/100ml and samples

Seriously, I am thrilled to have discovered this. I shouldn´t get such set ideas in my head as to what is going to be good and what isn´t. So forgive me Mr Henfling for having procrastinated so long. If the others are as good as this I have a treat waiting. As patchouli remains my favorite note, that is going to be my next!

Classic Mimosa – highly recommended.

Bussis
CQ