Id by Mendittorosa (Odori d'Anima) 2012

April 22, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

When my kids were very young they used to make “gift”. “Gift” is the German word for poison. They would use a glass jar and run around the house filling it with all kinds of things. Dishwashing liquid, soap powder, ketchup, flour, salt, pepper, honey, chocolate sauce, jam, and who knows what else. They would hide the jars somewhere on our balcony and wait a couple of days to see what would happen. As far as I remember they caught a few unlucky wasps, and the stuff bubbled up into a gooey mess, which I had to clean up. They have not gone on to create any fragrances.

Stefania Squeglia used to do something similar. Except we can call these olfactory experiments. Stefania would fill her glass jars with flower petals, water and women´s perfumes. She would hide the jars in the dark and wait a while to discover the fragrant results of her combinations, to see how the “odours” had changed.

Photo Stolen FotoPedia

It was during a trip to Stromboli Island in 2011 that these memories were reawakened and served to inspire Stefania Squeglia to begin her creative career. “Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima” was born. The island is situated off the north coast of Sicily and has one of three active volcanoes in Italy, The Stromboli Volcano is the cornerstone of Stefania´s ideas, and influences her concepts and scents.

Menditorrosa is an Italian niche perfume house. There are five Mendittorosa perfumes, all extrait de parfum.

TRILOGY “For all things in life, there is a beginning and there is an end. But the end can also mark a new beginning.”

Alfa. Omega. Id. These three fragrances have been created to wear separately or combined.

NORTH AND SOUTH “Each north has it´s south, and each south, it´s north. Two opposites longing for completeness.”

North. South. These too can be worn alone or layered.

Id by Mendittorosa (Odori d’Anima) 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Mendittorosa gives these featured accords:
Top: Ravensara
Heart: Jasmine, Iris
Base: Birch, Oud, Labdanum, Cinnamon

I would not be comfortable writing about each one of the fragrances as one needs a good length of time to feel what the perfumer intends.
I chose to spend a few days wearing “Id” as I felt an immediate attraction to the concept of this perfume. The locals of Stromboli Island refer to the volcano as “Iddu” from which Stefania named this perfume. This was the fragrance that first brought Mendittorosa to life. I lived on a volcanic island in the Atlantic for 2 years and love the idea of a perfume that has been inspired from volcanic surrounds. “Id” was launched in 2012.

Photo Stolen Flickr

“Id” is an oriental. The notes include ravensara, jasmine, iris, birch, oud, labdanum and cinnamon. I had to look up ravensara and you can too. It is a plant that grows in Madagascar and I was not familiar with it. Don´t be put off by the oud (!) or any other note that you may think you don´t care for. This is so beautifully formulated that no one note is dominant. It is very warm and I found it to be energizing. It unfolds over several hours and ends up being quite musky. Good for guys and gals. And the bottles are stunning.

I wanted to check these out at the Esxence last month, but didn´t get the chance. I am extremely grateful to “Aus Liebe Zum Duft” (First in Fragrance) who rectified that and took the time to send me samples of the Mendittorosa collection.

Mendittorosa has a new perfume in the pipeline. “Le Mat”. One to look out for.

First in Fragrance has €185/100ml and samples
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

The Mendittorosa Collection is available in a number of countries in Europe, a couple of places in the US, Kuwait and Saudia Arabia.
They will soon be available from Mendittorosa.

Did you hear of these or try any in the line yet?

Have a good week.

Bussis
CQ

Milan: Esxence 2014 The Scent of Excellence + Campomarzio70: Photo Essay

April 8, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 24 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

I was invited by Campomarzio70 for the “Inspiring Paintings, Perfumes on Canvas” Vernissage. At the same time Vero Profumo would be presenting their new fragrance “Rozy”. This had me in an uncontrollable state of excitement. I called my BFF Dr Judith Fox, a cognitive behaviour therapist, and invited her to come along with me. Better safe than sorry.

Whilst down there I planned to nip into the Esxence too, seeing as it was so close

Esxence 2014 The Scent of Excellence

THE ITALIAN JOB. CQ and Dr. Fox go to Milan

We left at 07.00 with 648 kilometers to go. About a seven hour trip not including pee stops and caffeine top ups. With the exception of a bug hurling itself into the windscreen with such thud that we both jumped, the trip was uneventful, the weather glorious. We arrived at our hotel under the guidance of Alice, our navigation system. At this point we still liked her. A quick freshen up and time to marvel at the flush in our bathroom and off to the show. Grabbing our press passes at the door we headed in. (For an in depth coverage of the event please see Chemist in a Bottle or Colognoisseur)

We had a date with Antonio Gardoni from Bogue Profumo and I was stoked. Antonio is so passionate about what he is doing it was a joy to talk with him. Bugs and juniper barrels, cypress oil and seasons. We sniffed Bogue´s Cologne Reloaded, which Antonio spritzed into the clay masks. Literally breathtaking. A post featuring Bogue´s Reloaded coming up soon. Antonio introduced us to the Nu_Be crew afterwards. Funky people. We saw Neela Vermeire a while later, but there are no good pictures and I will NOT post a crappy picture, so you´ll have to imagine it.

Hungry and tired we headed back to the hotel. It took a while because Alice totally freaked out and tried to get us to drive through a pedestrian zone several times from a number of different angles. We tricked her by heading to Rome so that she would finally recalculate. Eventually we made it. We ate at a superb working class cafeteria, delicious fish and spaghetti with fresh tomatoes and buffalo mozarella, accompanied by several televisions all showing the Juventus game. Excellent.

Early start the next day and after a caffeinated breakfast, we were on our way to Via Dante 14, downtown Milan, where Campomarzio70 were located. We parked the Mini Fox close by, and went to pick up Vero Kern from her hotel. We met Nicola Pozzani of “ssence – the senses of perfume” at the hotel as well. He would be giving an interactive lecture on Scent in Saudi Arabia at the Esxence later that afternoon.

Off we went together. The Essential Culture event was artistic, elegant, and intimate. Each perfume house with a small display. Want a list? Isabey. Amorvero. Von Eusersdorf. Cire Trudon. Grossmith. By Kilan. Mona di Orio. Brecourt. Vero Profumo. Ramon Monegal. Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Memo. Yosh. Fuegia 1833. As some of you know Jordi Molla painted a picture inspired by one particular fragrance from each house. Extremely stylish. Dr Fox and I both loved the artwork.

I überspritzed Vero Profumo´s Rozys, one on each arm. They were after all the reason I was there.

We attended Nicola´s interactive lecture over at the Esxence later in the afternoon, which I will cover in a future post. Fascinating. Saudi Arabia Kingdom of Odours. A stroll around the Esxence had us leaving with the new ELdO Cologne (yum) and the amped up Rien (bring it on!!) a couple from Humieki & Graef, including Blask, all of the Rouge Bunny Rouge range, and Ulrich Lang´s Nightscape. Ulrich incidentally was charming.

The evening vernissage back at Via Dante was graceful and welcoming, good food and great company. Cocktails and music, perfumes and perfumers, art and artists. From Nasomatto to Monegal. We left later in the evening and went with Vero across the road to a cafe for a quiet drink. Except we didn´t reckon on our four foot waiter, Letcherous Luigi, who was intent on trying to grope all of our boobs. Hahahahahahaha! The Essential Culture, forsooth.

Saturday we headed back home. With a pit stop at a supermarket to stack up on Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pasta, drinks and other scrumptious Italian things. Over the Brenner Pass, and back into Austria. The following day we would have needed snow chains so it was good we left when we did.

Was it worth it? I came home with a tiny stash of both the Rozy Voile and the EdP clutched to my groped bosom. Italian Job successful.

Bussis

CQ (APJ´s Raving Reporter)

With the utmost gratitude to Dr Judith Fox for keeping me sane and the hilarious time. And Lisa from Campomarzio for the invite.

All photographs donated by Cookie Queen

Zelda by Shelley Waddington for En Voyage Perfumes 2013

March 25, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 24 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Zelda: NOT the Legend of Zelda

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

When this fragrance was brought to my attention, I already decided that it wasn´t for me. After years of computer gaming in my home I fall into the traumatized mother category. I could´t imagine anyone naming a perfume after a computer game, unless perhaps they were traumatized too? Despite hearing good things, it was not on my hit list.

Fast forward a few months to the legendary Blogger´s Meet in London. In the middle of eating a very nice plate of fish and chips I was handed a bottle of Zelda from the extremely charming Vanessa, her of Bonkers About Perfume fame. I gave myself a hefty spritz, which I promptly ignored. Nevertheless she packed me up a little sample to take home with me.

Photos supplied by Michael

I now have my own bottle.

A Perfume Trip

I spent several summers in the seventies and early eighties at Stonehenge and Glastonbury, in the days when they were free festivals. I remember very clearly (which is surprising) a particular psychedelic experience. We were sat on the stones of Stonhenge and as my friends and I spoke to each other the words came out of our mouths in sheets of colours. Each more vibrant than the other.

Each time I wear Zelda I have a comparable experience. I exhale, put my nose to my skin, and then inhale deeply. The notes unfold in layers like magic. First the spicy top layer, and then the thick magnolia and flowery layer, and then hidden under that you hit a smoky, musky, vanilla, sandalwoody and who knows what else accord. It stays layered on the skin. Absolute genius, and it doesn´t stop. It is deep and complex, and I wonder how Shelley Waddington came up with this. Be careful though it´s a twelve hour trip! Still there in the morning.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Zelda Fitzgerald (1900 – 1948) “I don’t want to live. I want to love first, and live incidentally.” – Zelda Fitzgerald

Zelda was inspired by Zelda Fitzgerald, quintessential flapper and inspiration for her husband F. Scott Fitzgerald. She lived her life to the full, but hovered on the edge of madness. She was a writer in her own right. Gone are my thoughts of computer games.

Zelda by Shelley Waddington for En Voyage Perfumes 2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Italian Bergamot, Spices, Iranian Galbanum
Heart: Magnolia Blossom, Garden Florals
Base: Amber, Musks, Vanilla, Peru Balsam, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Cedarwood, Oakmoss (Mousse de Chêne)

You can order from En Voyage Perfumes and they do samples too. I look forward to exploring more of the line.

Further reading: Jordan River at Australian Perfume Junkies and Smelly Thoughts

“Nobody has measured, not even poets, how much the human heart can hold.” Zelda Fitzgerald

Bussis
CQ

ROZY Voile d'Extrait by Vero Profumo 2014

March 22, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 21 Comments

Dearest APJ Readers, Hangers On (please subscribe) and all Vero Profumo Aficionados.

ROZY Voile d’Extrait by Vero Profumo 2014

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Oriental rose, tuberose, currant buds and leaves, honey, spices, sandalwood, labdanum

A huge spritz and a long sniff and nine hours later, I am charmed. Did you expect anything else?

I am not Freddy from Smelly Thoughts who would really do this justice. I will however try.

It opens with a bright burst of cassis and a an atypical rose combined with tuberose undertones. By this I mean it does not scream rose. It’s gorgeous and not like anything I have ever sniffed. I know you want more information but I can’t do it that quick. Droplets of sandalwood are there too. But what has thrilled me the most is the last couple of hours. It is the softest, cosiest, creamiest honey I have ever experienced. It creeps up on you.
And no, it is nothing like any of the other Voiles.

The Rozy EdP is, however another story.

Don’t forget to enter our 300,00 views Acqua di Parma GIVEAWAY<<< JUMP

Bussis from the Campomarzio70 Happy Nose Days Vernissage!!

OLFACTORAMA AWARDS APRIL 5th 2013

March 11, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

OLFACTORAMA AWARDS

Le Prix des Amoureux du Parfum

Vero Profumo Mito Voile d´Extrait, one of five, nominated for the Olfactorama Prix de L´Enthousiasme 2013

I had French at school for five years. I also had two years of French tuition from a charming lady who taught me nothing except to love grenadine. Which is a shame really because now I sound like some Somerset farmer when attempting the odd French word. But I digress. For those of you who, like me cannot parlais a single word, here is a little information on the Olfactorama Awards. These were brought to my attention through my love of the Vero Profumo perfumes.

Vero Profumo´s Mito EdP won the 2012 Prix de la Virtuosité. (Most impressive niche fragrance)

After more than seven years in existence, hundreds of postings and comments, thousands of perfumes sniffed (and some bought!) five members of the French speaking Blogosphere founded the Olfactorama Awards. The awards would represent each year, the best of perfumery. They wanted to give a unique voice to this community, and a chance to define the passion and dynamism within it. Six organisers propose a selection of bloggers, both amateurs and experts, to be part of the Olfactorama Jury. There are 40 members of the jury this year.

The basic idea is to evaluate and select, by groups (both mainstream and niche) the best perfumes launched in the French market over the past year. Attention is also paid to the products and ideas that emerge from the perfume industry each year. This would include perfumed candles and room sprays, initiatives and enterprises related to perfume ………

The organisers establish a list of candidates and then ask the jury to select the ones they feel are the best for each group, which include:

MAINSTREAM PERFUMERY

Prix du Grand Féminin 2013

Prix du Grand Masculin 2013

NICHE PERFUMERY

Prix de la Virtuosité 2013 (award for technical and/or historical aspects)
Prix de l’Enthousiasme 2013 (award for emotional aspects)

APJ readers, if you have made it this far, well done. I am about to lose my mind writing all this factual information. I don´t want to make any mistakes. There are three more awards up for grabs too. Prix Atmosphère, Prix du Patrimoine Olfactif, and Prix de Focus. Take a look at http://www.olfactorama.fr or Olfactorama FB page for more information.
The sites are in French of course, but no problem. You can also see what/who has been nominated in the other groups.

The very helpful Juliette from the Olfactorama Organisation Team provided me with my information. She also explained why Mito Voile d`Extrait was selected:

“After much deliberation we came to the conclusion that Mito Voile d´Extrait was the most thrilling of Vero´s Voile range. Even if technically, this was already well realised, we believe that Mito invokes a deep emotional sensation with this version. And so we decided to nominate it for the Prix de l´Enthousiasme 2013.”

The nominations for the Prix de l´Enthousiasme 2013:

Vero Profumo – Mito Voile d´Extrait
Flash back – Olfactive Studio
Black – Comme des Garçons
Shanghai Lily – Tom Ford
Tam Dao – Diptyque

So if you will all excuse me, I need to pack. I am off to Milan to try out Vero Profumo´s latest creation – ROZY.
Well someone has to.

TTFN
CQ xxx

All photos supplied through Val from Musque-Moi!/Patrice Revillard

Boxeuses by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2010

February 26, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

I have a very good friend who is a reflexologist. There is a particular point on the bottom of the big toe that, when pressed correctly and very firmly, connects directly to the pituitary gland, which in turn sends a seriously pleasurable electric shock right through the body. It stimulates everything. It´s awesome. It´s short. It cannot be repeated until a period of weeks have gone by.

Boxeuses by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2010

Boxeuses, Sweat and Bromide

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Woody notes, leather, plum, licorice

Which is pretty much what happened when I tried Boxeuses for the first time. The sensual gratification was but for a second or two, but the level of clarity ……… ensnared! It happens all too rarely.

You know Serge – it´s got the plummy note, for which he is so well known, woods, violets, and incense. And suede. A suede note that is wanton. Féminité du Bois with serious balls. It stays around for hours and the leather just improves with every minute. Gasp.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Patty at Perfume Posse says, “The open is promising, it’s classic Lutens, violet, spices, cedar, leather. Bundled up like some of his most iconic fragrances – Feminite du Bois and Bois de Violette and Cuir Mauresque/Daim blond – familiar, but not. Scented echoes of what you know so well and love. Like that old lover from your youth who wanders back in your life. The same, but not the same.”

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

Now’s the time to fight.

To get the idea, think of Russian leather tanned on birch bark.
Now add animalic notes, strong enough to suggest a black eye.
In other words, it’s time to see stars! Serge Lutens

This is the gym perfume. Boy or girl. High intensity work-out, sweat and Boxeuses.

Never ending leather. How rock´n´roll is that?
“We´re driving Cadillacs in our dreams …… let me live that fantasy “ (Royals – Lorde)

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Bois de Jasmin
Serge Lutens has €145/75ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

Pass the bromide.

Perfume Games

February 12, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 31 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Perfume Games

YOU GOTTA HAVE A SCENTS OF HUMOUR!!

It is exactly a year now since I met Portia.

Val and Portia Mozart Cafe Vienna 2013

This perfume world is absolutely crazy, fun, rewarding, uplifting and at times absolutely hilarious.

I have two favourite perfume games. They can be played as solitaire or with multiple players.

Game 1. Are they? / Aren’t they?

As I am out and about in the city, with or without my daughter (non perfume junkie friends don´t play this game)
we like to pick approaching people at random and guess if they are going to walk by in a huge cloud of fragrance,
leaving a trail behind them, a light spritz, nothing, or a bad case of BO. After playing this game for several years it is extremely satisfying to
see just how often I get it right.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Game 2. Maybe I know More Than You

(usually played silently and pleasurably in your head, depending how annoying the sales assistant is)

Ever been into a perfumery, department store or wherever and had the sales assistant talk a lot of nonsense?
Freddie from Smelly Thoughts recently told me that the SA in Harrod´s explained Vero Kern´s Onda as a lavender. Need I say more?

So one year on and I am about to meet up with Portia again. We will be in London together.
Harrod´s, be warned.

So APJ lovers and friends, feel free to share any perfume games you play!

Bussis
CQ

01/n°03 Down In One 14 by Cécile Matton for Fragrance Republ!c 2013

January 29, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Hi APJ,

From Fragrance Republic site: FRAGRANCE REPUBL!C 01/03 was inspired by the deliciously complex yet accessible mojito, the sunny, potent, Cuban drink. Marrying the fresh, exuberant aspect of mint and lemon to the darkly sweet and powerful Rhum Pure Jungle Essence creates a sparkling effervescent fusion.

APJ readers please check out the website. I cannot possible do it justice. There is so much fascinating information on it, including a conversation between Denyse Beaulieu (of Grain de Musc) and the perfumer Cécile Matton.

FRAGRANCE REPUBL!C is a club of fragrance enthusiasts that gives exclusive access to original fine fragrances as created by world class perfumers ……….. you may read on yourselves.

FRAGRANCE REPUBL!C 01/n°03 by Cécile Matton 2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Gurjum (a resin that flows naturally from the trees of the dipterocarpus species); Mojito Accord (Rhum Pure Jungle Essence, Mint, Lemon)

So onto the 01/03 juice. I have a 21 year old son. He works with the deaf. He is a body builder. (He is also extremely sick of me shoving various parts of my body under his nose and telling him to sniff.) I sprayed a hefty amount of n°03 onto paper as he walked into the room. Let´s just say I don´t own the bottle any more.

Photo Stolen Hammerin Man Flickr

It smells very resiny in the beginning and quite peppery. It sweetens up as time goes on, but the lemony overtones stop it from being cloying. It is bright and exhilarating and exuberant. It veers towards the masculine side of the spectrum to my nose, but that could be because my son has been wearing it for month. He said one of the reasons he likes it so much is because no one else has it! Ah ha.
Perhaps he has inherited some of my snobby perfume habits after all!

So Perfumista Mums and Dads. You all have an advantage over me. When your kids start to reach that age of totally covering themselves in Axe (aaaaargh, scream, ) you have a great option. Treat them, and in turn yourselves to FR!´s 01/03. You cannot go wrong. They´ll thank you for it.

I can only say bring on 01/04 … these are fab and we want more.

Love from Austria, where I am sat with Portia and Michael. Well, someone´s gotta do it.

Bussis from us all
CQ

With thanks to FR! for giving me the opportunity to sniff!!

Moon Bloom by Hiram Green 2013

January 15, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Hey APJ! Happy New Year.

Through the miracle of modern technology, Portia introduced me to Hiram Green by email, and invited him to send me a sample of Moon Bloom. Oh yes, I was excited. This would be a first for me, having a perfume sent specifically to be tested and written about. But what if I didn´t like it?

I am sat here sipping my Matcha latte (my current addiction), with my nose glued to my wrist wondering what on earth I can possibly add to all that has been said already about Moon Bloom. I will have to assume that some of you are reading about Moon Bloom for the first time.

Moon Bloom by Hiram Green 2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tuberose absolute, jasmine absolute, ylang-ylang, coconut, leafy greens, tropical spices, resins

Moon Bloom is an all natural fragrance. Tuberose absolute, jasmine absolute, and creamy ylang ylang, mingled with coconut, leafy greens, hints of tropical spice and resins. It is extremely feminine and drop-dead gorgeous; hypnotic and narcotic. I wore it up a mountain. Sub-zero temperatures along with snow add to the beauty of this very desirable concoction. It´s luminous, visible in the darkness. It is a fragrance for the winter solstice.

Photo Stolen FotoPedia

“Natural fragrant materials have the power to stimulate the senses in ways a synthetic cannot duplicate.” Hiram Green

The perfume hugs the skin like a cloak, staying close for at least six hours. I cannot recommend it highly enough if tuberose and perfection together is your thing. The bottle too is as perfect as the perfume within it.

Further reading: About Hiram Green – Olfactoria’s Travels and Smelly Thoughts
Hiram Green has €135/50ml, and a €25/5ml TRAVEL SIZE. Just like all perfume houses should do. (Note – folks outside of the EU do not pay sales tax, so it comes in at a lower price.)

There was no need to worry. I loved it. You know how you can tell? I would not have written about it otherwise.

With a million thanks to Hiram Green for giving me the opportunity, and encouraging me to look further into natural perfumery.

Have a nice day.

Bussis
CQ

La Myrrhe by Chrisopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 1995

December 25, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 39 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

“Myrrhe is mine it´s bitter perfume, breathes a life of gathering gloom …….” The Quest of the Magi by John Henry Hopkins Jnr.

Merry Christmas APJ friends, if you could just tear yourself away from your festivities for a moment …..

La Myrrhe by Chrisopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 1995

This wonderful deep, rich, golden, comforting, soft, chilly, yet warm, aniseedy, bright, beautiful and thought provoking perfume, La Myrrhe, comes in for a lot of flack. Those who love Serge for his reliable potions, and you all know what they are, will probably not care for this. It forces you to look outside of the box, which may be uncomfortable for some. If you´re thinking, awesome, I hope it smells like Chergui, forget it.

However , if it is one you have wanted to try, but not had the chance because it can be difficult to get hold of, I would love to share some of mine. Please leave a comment telling me WHY you would like to try La Myhrre. You have till 10pm December 29th 2014 Australian EDST.

I will get my daughter Hannah to pick the name out of the dead armadillo as always because it is fun!!
There again I might pick the winner myself if someone leaves a good and original reason for wanting to try the stuff. Who knows??

Enjoy the pictures that a good friend and photographer, Dayle Ann Clavin, took of my bottle.

OK. You can get back to your turkey, unpacking of presents or whatever. Our perfume love and hobby is very decadent. Spare
a thought for these who are not so fortunate. Let´s contribute to making our immediate environment a better place to live in.

Peace on earth, good will to all men.

With love
CQ

http://www.dayleannclavin.com
Look at her pictures yourself if you have time at Dayle Ann Clavin.