Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. a tirelessly redefined model for success. In every era since her self inception Coco has been held up as the pinnacle of that eras aspirational success. That she was amazing, inventive, driven and well outside the norm is not ever under question. That her personal morals and judgements were often in poor taste and even evil is sometimes overlooked for her genius. If Coco was alive today with her way of thinking I would not buy the CHANEL product because she was a bigot, and an oppressor. Coco is gone and CHANEL remains. Long live CHANEL and I chose to look at the wonder, not the history, except to remember that not all is as it seems.
Some of you may know that way back in the dimness of time I was a Squirt Bitch for a department store in Sydney’s suburbs, my fragrance section was Guerlain, Oscar de la Renta, Worth and Nina Ricci. At the time I was so dazzled by the Guerlains and Oscars that poor old Nina Ricci got left behind, it was the 1980s and very few people were after such subtlety, especially once I started on my “Make a statement” spiel. I recently purchased some L’Air du Temps parfum just for old times sake. Then, a short while ago on Fragrantica Miguel Matos did a sensational L’Air du Temps 65th Birthday piece and judging by the packaging on my new acquisition it’s 1986-2008 juice, except the parfum has gold doves on the box. Which is a SCORE. Today was always going to be about L’Air du Temps but now it has an extra special reason, Happy 65th Birthday L’Air du Temps.
I love a floral, fruity, aldehydic opening of yesteryear, there is so much depth and glamour. It’s spicy and sugared, crisp and warm and fizzy, L’Air du Temps is fun! The parfum version is so much fuller and more powerful in the opening than my memories of the EdT back in the 1980s but the scent is still the same, no not the same but same enough to feel the memories flood back. Both cozy and starched elegance at the same time. Luminous! I am back in time over 20 years and just getting my first perfumista stars.
After the first ten minutes L’Air du Temps takes a definite step towards soft, there become space between the various notes and the wall of scent becomes a lovely warm floral aura that is still spicy and punchy but more restrained. There is so much going on in L’Air du Temps that I find it hard to pick individual notes. The cloves are most discernible and I can smell flowers but it’s a dream of flowers nothing specific. While half the time feeling totally old fashioned and dated it also is still spare and pretty enough through the heart to be at ease in today’s fragrant climate. An hour in and I am softly fragrant, maybe if I was sitting in a small room for a while you’d smell a change in the air but otherwise you’d have to hug me to know I’m perfumed.
Amber and sandalwood/cedar are what I smell most of in the dry down, there are other things but I can’t decipher them as notes it’s more of a harmonious background hum. After around 4 hours L’Air du Temps goes so soft I can barely register it but I know that I’m not smelling me, it is definitely other, an amorphous wash that I lose at around 5-6 hours.
How does L’Air du Temps make me feel? Pretty, I feel pretty, no bold statement, very laid back and comfortable. Wearable on any occasion, even close working quarters would not be offended by L’Air du Temps parfum. It is subtle and glamorous without the hard work of appearing to be.
Have you worn L’Air du Temps? Does it have memories for you? Share with us please in the comments
Se you tomorrow,
Portia xx
Whoever got the job of creating this ad was both crazy and genius by the look of it. It is still super wow.
You may know it’s my birthday today. It couldn’t go by without some cake. But today’s cake is a little different, YOU get to make a wish and blow on the picture.
BIRTHDAY WISHES
Close your eyes
Wish for something simple and achievable in your life
Hold the thought for 3 seconds
Now say THANK YOU for four things that you are grateful for. Doesn’t matter how small or big.
Here’s the cake……
Blow!
So I don’t know if your wish will come true but you know you have 4 things to be grateful for. You’re doing better than almost everyone else in the world.
What will I be wafting on this special day? Vintage Shalimar Parfum. I smell so fabulous and I’m smiling like a fool. With Guerlain’s Shalimar it always feels like love.
There was a lot of kerfuffle when by Kilian brought out his newest set of fragrances “In The Garden Of Good And Evil”, we were all expecting way too much because of by Kilian’s history and price point. To be fair on the poor guy he did open with beyond amazing fragrances: Back to Black and Sweet Redemption being my two faves so far. Then came the Asian Tales, which for me were a complete and utter flop. So as a comeback series “In The Garden Of Good And Evil” needed to be so far above the bar, include new directions and exquisitely crafted fragrances. I have read Midnight In The Garden Of Good And Evil by John Berendt a couple of times and seen the John Cusack, Kevin Spacey and Jude Law film many times because I love The Lady Chablis. In my mind I hoped for something outrageous and dark, brooding dankness that was glossed over with beauty.
Fragrantica gives these featured accords: Top: Apple, peach, plum, cinnamon Heart: Bulgarian rose, bourbon geranium, jasmine Base: Vanilla, honey, opoponax
I am glum. With Forbidden Games I had hoped that the jasmine, honey and to an extent vanilla/opoponax were going to undercut the fruit with a dirty, fleshy, breathy, urinous backbeat that would naughtily and subversively poke fun at the many fruity fragrances already in the market. Something gorgeous and devilish, a finger raised fearlessly at the quagmire of fizzy fruit cup crap. Sadly this was not to be. Forbidden Games leads us and our expectations astray, we get a very pretty, sweet, fruity and only the merest hint of anything not being ultra nice. I was hoping for Serial Mom but I got Mrs Brady.
Forbidden Games is not a bad scent, actually it is flawless in its genre, and will be perfect for those uber rich Dads to gift daughters and wives (They are giving their mistresses the Arabian Nights and L’oeuvre Noire collections). Especially good for a gateway fragrance that will take a girl to a perfumista woman. The packaging and copy are fabulous, of course, and they didn’t just release this for fun so there must be a clientele out there buying Forbidden Games, let’s hope so for the company’s sake.
My skin eats most of Forbidden Games in the first half hour of application and after that I need to take a really up close focused whiff of myself to get anything much. If you like the idea of spritzing yourself with perfume and the initial rush of sweet, fruity girlishness but can’t or don’t want to wear fragrance at work then this could be for you. Fireworks and then the merest whiffle of something that is soft enough to pass off as body lotion because offices are so drying, don’t you know.
I am yet to try the rest of the “In The Garden Of Good And Evil” set but my buddies on FFF tell me there are a couple of perfect gems hiding in the range, my next “To Try” will be In The City Of Sin. How did they fare on you?
Portia xx
Hello Australian Perfume Junkies no matter where you are,
Indian actresses talk about rape. This is a clever, shocking and confronting piece that you need to watch. I am astounded that the west hasn’t done something like this already.
One of the things that I sometimes get asked is, “Which perfume should I wear to get lucky?” The short answer is the sweet smell of success and happiness. Of course, sometimes romance needs a little push or maybe we need to smell a certain way to have the confidence to create the opportunity. I have a few frags in my weaponry that I like to wear when being noticed in the right way is important. You also need to have a bit of strategy too. What kind of person do you want to smell like? Here are 5 types and fragrances to go with them. Remember, this is all in fun, it’s not just about the way you smell that’s going to hook your intended but it might just be the final push they need…….
1: Having a ball with my friends: Bronze Goddess by Estée Lauder
I have the 2010 version of Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche but they are all a fun holiday tropical type spritz that is extremely pretty, has good sillage and projection and they last well too. Coconut and/or jasmine seem to be the standout notes in the whole set and it’s the kind of carefree summery scent that smells like you are out for fun and an uncomplicated, happy, breezy person ready for what ever the night holds.
2: I may look a bit uptight but underneath…..: CHANEL No 19
This is a good old fashioned beauty. The cool, crisp snap of a green fragrance at once aloof and haughty. You want to smell like an ice king/queen that needs a bit of thawing. That iris undercut by warm woods and leather, all frost and fire will keep your partner a little off balance till you want to show them the way. CHANEL No 19 is a wonderful back straightener and focus fragrance if you need to feel in control of the situation while waiting to exhale.
3: I am a soft silken dove: DIOR La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Milly-la-Foret
Sometimes being quietly, tastefully understated is the best way to get someone to come close and stay there. That first waft as they come in close to you could be the clincher. Milly-la-Foret is a beautiful soft musky powder, it’s there but only up close, and it smells so good and expensive, a winner. So soft and light that it will give an impression of fragility yet if you sniff a bit closer you can tell it’s real quality and perfectly at peace. Milly-la-Foret is the scent of success and the contented wind down after the celebration parties.
4: If you grab this there will be all sorts of: Trouble by Boucheron
Trouble is one of my all time favourite siren scents. Sweet jasmine over a hefty amber base. This is the scent of a heartbreaker, and men go crazy for it. You can find Trouble at the discounters but soon it will be all gone, it’s getting harder and harder to find for a reasonable price. Slated by Turin/Sanchez but a fabulously outrageous and over the top fragrance that will certainly bring you attention. Smells especially great on the men, believe it.
5: Seriously seeking physical attentions, all offers considered: Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier
This smells so good I follow people around in venues that wear it just to catch an errant whiff. Le Male is the most sensual, engaging and stridently sexual scent I know on both sexes. Ignore the ad spiel ladies, Le Male is killer on everyone and in today’s age of scentless fragrant wash you will stand out like dogs balls, ready to be licked. Be careful when you spritz Le Male, you may need security guards. Looking for action, then this is your choice.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this fun look at how to smell for seduction. Fragrance does not care who wears it, never be mislead by the advertising copy or who a fragrance is aimed at. If they smell good, wear them. Cross the gender divide,you’ll be glad you did,
What are your special seduction fragrances? Please add to the list in the comments. Share your hard won knowledge please.
Here is something that usually I’d steer well clear of. Something about it has had me sneaking peeks every time a bit comes up on FB or YouTube. So I gave in, why not?
Fragrantica gives these featured accords: Top: Pink grapefruit, forest fruits and red currant Heart: Freesia, jasmine and frangipani Base: Woodsy notes, patchouli and musk
Though Our Moment is no ground breaker it is not a bad scent. It could have been WAY WORSE. Though I will probably not own a bottle myself I can see that many, many people will and that this fragrance will be a memory scent for them. It will remind them of great times, fab/fun music, carefree days and their crush on one of the One Direction boys. the bottle is a fun and frivolous nod to one of the other greats of the UK, Vivienne Westwood’s Boudoir, and they present it as if a piece of them went into creating it. Better than expected all round really.
One thing that I will say is that I spritzed a card on Saturday last week, it’s now Friday morning and I can still smell the woods/patchouli and I swear synth. vanilla on the card. If this was what the first spritz smelled like I would buy a bottle because it smells wonderful.
Here is an interview with Liu Jianhua, the designer of a marvelously opulent set for the DOIR ‘Esprit Dior’ exhibition Shanghai. He is shown erecting the installation and talks of how he came to some of his artistic decisions and the links he brings from Christian Dior’s own magical presence in the exhibition. In under 2 minutes the director has captured both the beauty and intensity of Liu Jianhua’s vision and some of how he brought it to life.
The other day Jin and I went to brunch with the lovely Cassandra F and her daughter. We had some serious perfume business to attend to and what better way to do that than with a meal and some frag sniffing? So Cassandra and I happily chatted about frags as I was buying a couple of Cassandra’s unloved bottles (which you’ll get to meet here in the near future) while the other two ate and chattered about other stuff. I have often wondered about today’s fragrance, the bottle has always intrigued me with its fun pink repeat GUCCI linked logo pattern, so reminiscent of the linings, bags, ties and shoes of the label but most reviewers are so outraged that they changed GUCCI Envy that they miss this ones merits completely.
Fragrantica gives these featured accords: Top: Peony, peach, cassia, pineapple, mango, pink pepper, jasmine Heart: Peony, litchi, rose, pomegranite, white tea, jasmine, musk Base: Tobacco, musk, tonka, sandalwood, teak wood
GUCCI Envy Me is no incredible, earth shaking fragrance that will change your life and send your mind spinning in heretofore undreamt directions, nor will it need you to sit down and follow a lengthy story progression. GUCCI Envy Me will though be an excellent, wearable fragrance that I could imagine becoming a signature fragrance for a non perfumista. This is spritz and wear perfume for people who want to smell pleasantly fragrant, who enjoy wearing perfume and feel undressed without it.
Opening with a green and fruit fizz the synthetic pink pepper reminds me of so much else available now but done nicer, it feels more expensive than a lot of the zingy fruit openings currently but is also eerily similar to some of the celebuscents we’ve seen in the last few years, it also feels cooler. Remember that GUCCI Envy Me was released in 2004, Tom Ford’s last year as Creative Director. I can’t remember but if he had anything to do with it it must have been a bit cutting edge then.
The heart gives me a musky blur of fruity flowers, it’s a bit like one of those fruity roses in the garden but sweeter than any I’ve smelled. If the tea were a little heftier or blacker it may have been more rose-ish and more interesting. The dry down doesn’t happen on my skin, one minute I’m a musky fruit tingle and then musky and then scentless. Around 3-4 hours on my scent hungry skin but the good thing is you will never overspray or skunk anyone.
As it is GUCCI Envy Me suffers on my skin from a lack of base, it’s a pretty, amorphous and ethereal sweet wash that has quite good sillage but not too much projection, maybe elbow length away in the first 2 hours thewn it’s come in to hug me and get a waft.
We have been having some super draws lately, aren’t you all the luckiest EVER! Thank you to Nick at LibertinePerfumerie for being so amazingly generous, please drop in and see them because they are the best. The more shopping traffic they get from us then theb more freebees they will give us for giveaways. Now there’s a WIN for everyone.
Here’s a little pressie for you all, I love the way these boys do So Sick by Neyo. Enjoy!!
L’Artisan + Piguet GIVEAWAY WINNERS
WHAT CAN YOU WIN?
1 x 50ml Robert Piguet FUTUR
1 x 2.5 gram L’Artisan Parfumeur Concrete de Parfum Solid of Premier Figuier
P&H Anywhere in the world
HOW DO YOU WIN?
Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.
All I need is a HELLO with how you follow for you to be eligible for the draw.
Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie @LArtisan@RobertPiguet GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-1Xp #Perfume #Giveaway
HOUSEKEEPING
Entries Close Sunday 15th September 2013 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and Jin will pick a winner. (Jin was asleep so I picked)
You have till Wednesday 18th September 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.
Special THANKS to LibertinePerfumerie for these giveaways. Please visit their site because they are so generous and helpful. If you wonder why they are more expensive than the discounters or OS retailers it’s because they are the only licensed company selling their fragrances in Australia; where you know you are buying new, fresh and genuine product. The cost of importing, and buying the right to import, alcohol based fragrances (and having the right to send alcohol based fragrances throughout Australia, which are illegal to send in the Australia Post air system) is expensive and they must cover their costs to bring you these luxury goods.
Photo Stolen Wikipedia
Photo Stolen girlwiththecuriousnose
