Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls 1996

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Post by Azar

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Hi there, Perfume Pals!

It’s time for spring -cleaning! Well…I’ve actually been at it for over a month now! While rummaging around in the chaos of the perfume storage I discovered mass quantities of back-ups bottles https://australianperfumejunkies.com/2016/02/15/back-up-bottles/. This stash includes a surfeit of vintage Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls, in various concentrations, totaling approximately 400 ml. At one point I must have been grooving on Black Pearls, but for some reason I forgot all about it. 2016, the 20th anniversary of the Black Pearls fragrance, seems to be a good year to resurrect this old beauty and re-discover –

Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls 1996

The Power of the Peach (Part I)

Black Pearls Elizabeth Taylor FragranticaFragrantica

When I sat down to write this post I wasn’t surprised that the name of the individual perfumer or team responsible for creating Black Pearls has vanished in the mists of time. I did learn that the fragrance was concocted and distributed by the Elizabeth Arden division of Parfums International, the same company that put together Elizabeth Taylor’s White Diamonds, the fragrance that is, arguably, the best selling celebuscent in the world.

The creation of the Black Pearl fragrance, like most ventures associated with Elizabeth Taylor, has a romantic back-story featuring gifts of precious gems. Elizabeth Taylor was a client of Salvador Assael, the flamboyant New York pearl trader and marketing genius who single handedly transformed what were once considered “junk” pearls grown in the black lipped oyster into precious Tahitian cultured pearls, creating new multimillion dollar pearl farming businesses in the process. It is rumored that Assael was infatuated with Elizabeth Taylor and courted her with a perfect pair of very large Tahitian pearl earrings. It is also said that he claimed to have inspired the creation of the Black Pearl fragrance. In addition to Elizabeth Taylor, Assael’s client list included many other celebrities, politicos, industrialists, their wives and mistresses, including Margaret Thatcher, Ronald and Nancy Reagan, Rosalynn Carter and Evelyn Lauder. Several of the women were also recipients of precious black pearl earrings.

Black Pearls Elizabeth Taylor ASSAEL NYTimesNYTimes (If there’s a problem using this photo please get in touch)

Elizabeth Taylor’s Black Pearls perfume seems to have been designed to appeal to a consumer who wanted to associate herself with the 1990s NY celebrity scene and the glamorous excesses of Assael’s clients. I have to admit that it is hard for me to understand how spritzing a cheap fragrance created by a big mass-market firm could create the illusion of exclusivity, wealth and glamour. It may very well be that the power of the press, featuring print ads of the beautiful Elizabeth Taylor and the power of the fragrance itself, rife with luscious peach, amber, lotus and vanilla contributed to a public image of sexy, sensual entitlement.

I’m running out of room here and will have to reserve my actual review and a give-away of the vintage version of Elizabeth Taylor’s Black Pearls perfume for my next post. I do have a couple of questions this week. Can a fragrance make you feel like a celebrity? Do you ever wear a perfume that is over the top sensual or one that gives you a sense of entitlement and privilege?

Azar xx

Cologne Nocturne GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Post by Portia

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Hey APJ,

We have 4 winners today. I hope you guys love the Cologne Nocturne, I think it’s gorgeous.

Portia xx

Cologne Nocturne GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Cologne Nocturne Le Galion FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, palisander rosewood
Heart: Clary sage, rosemary, thyme, lavender, spicy notes
Base: Cedar, patchouli, woody notes

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 4 winners who will receive:
1 x decant of Cologne Nocturne by Le Galion
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged. Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us what is your favourite Cologne?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 3rd April 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

WINNERS markmontanoblogsmarkmontanoblogs

TIM

SUN MI

NEVA

DAMIR

CONGRATULATIONS!! The winners will have till Thursday 7th April 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Mohur Extrait by Bertrand Duchaufour for Neela Vermeire Creations 2014

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Post by Sandra

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When Val, the Cookie Queen, comes to Vienna I know that we will have a great day chatting, laughing, walking and perhaps sniffing some perfumes together. New Year’s Eve 2014 she came into town to have brunch together with Birgit from Olfactoria’s Travels and Lady Jane Grey. This day was a celebration.

Mohur Extrait by Neela Vermeire Creations 2014 Amarylis bloomSandra

Val and I first met at Starbucks with our men in tow and she pulls out a cosmetic bag and whispers “Hey, Sandra, try this new perfume from Neela Vermeire – Mohur Extrait.“ Knowing how precious the extrait could be I was still hesitant and wrinkled up my nose carefully smelling the lid. Ha! As if I could get an idea of what was to come! Gingerly I spritzed the tiniest bit on my wrist, had a good sniff, promptly forgot about it and we were off chatting and laughing.

Mohur Extrait by Neela Vermeire Creations 2014

Mohur Extrait by Bertrand Duchaufour

Mohur Extrait Neela Vermeire Creations FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, coriander, ambrette (musk mallow), carrot seeds, pepper, elemi
Heart: Iris, jasmine, rose, violet, almond, leather
Base: Sandalwood, amber, woody notes, patchouli, agarwood (oud), benzoin, vanilla, tonka bean

Little did I know the burning ache that Mohur Extrait would light in my soul. After I came home I discovered the true beauty of this elixir and spent the next 6 hours with my nose glued to my wrist and dreaming.

On to the perfume… Let me begin by saying that I absolutely adore Neela’s bottles. The box arrived and as I unwrapped the paper and removed the bottle from the box my breath was taken away with the beautiful amethyst colour of the glass. The feel of the bottle in my hand is a perfect fit. The lid is solid, heavy and embossed with her logo.

Mohur Extrait by Neela Vermeire Creations 2014 Christmas roseSandra

The first spray of Mohur Extrait opens with a smooth spicy rose accord. The spices are not, to my nose, distinguishable from each other. They mold the rose so that it quietly whispers come hither to me. The almond milk is swirled together with the roses and spices and makes the whole impression comforting, warming and welcoming. This is not a rose soliflore perfume. Don’t be afraid of the list of notes nor of the spices, the extrait is extremely well balanced and just stunning. Longevity is excellent but on me it sits close to the skin. It brings to mind the deep red roses or the velvet smooth texture of the scarlet amarylis that I had in the flat on New Year’s Eve 2014. The lights twinkling in the background resemble the sparkling elegance of the Extrait.

Mohur Extrait by Neela Vermeire Creations 2014 BottleSandra

The drydown is where my love affair began and continues with Mohur Extrait. Sandalwood is interwoven with the rose to create a most scrumptious combination of creamy, slightly sweet woody rose which beckons every fibre of my soul to let go of all of the stress and worries in life. There is a tinge of vanilla but it is not sweet at all, in fact it is a dry vanilla if that makes any sense at all. The star of the Extrait for me is where the sandalwood sings its loving ballad to the roses and releases me to a dreamy state.

Giveaway lavanyasrecipeslavanyasrecipes

Mohur Extrait GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x sample pack of all of Neela’s creations including a tiny bit of the Extrait
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged. Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us if you have tried any of the NVC perfumes and which one is your favourite. If you have not tried any please tell me which one most appeals to you.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Tuesday 5th April 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Friday 8th April 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

 

Amouage Gold pour Homme by Guy Robert for Amouage 1998

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Post by Portia

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Heya Bargain Hunters,

Recently there was a very excited thrill through the frag community. One of the biggest discounters, FragranceNet, was having an end of year clearance on eBay. I think they were getting rid of the years returns and calling them 95% full. The postage was a bit of a bummer to Australia but still the deals were so good it was hard to pass up. (I sent mine to a mate in the USA who sent it on at a fraction of the cost) So, what did I buy? Extra Niki de Saint Phalle 60ml splash in a beautiful bottle, a 100ml Parfum de Peau by Montana that still has enormous amounts of outrageously naughty bits and for a steal a lidless 100ml of …

Amouage Gold pour Homme by Amouage 1998

Amouage Gold pour Homme by Guy Robert

Amouage Gold pour Homme Amouage FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top Dog rose, Lily-of-the-valley, Frankincense
Heart: Orris root, Jasmine, Myrrh
Base: Amber, Oakmoss, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cedar, Civet

Disclaimer! I wore this the night it arrived and I may have overspritzed. Jin got in the car and within a minute was asking what fragrance I was wearing because it’s disgusting and so big and reminds him of the smell they spray in old peoples homes to get rid of the old people smell. His head was pounding so badly from it that he had to take headache tablets and open his window to full. Poor boy.

I on the other hand am swept away by Amouage Gold Man.

Amouage Gold Man YouTubeYouTube

On opening I get a fabulous blast of incense, the rose and lily of the valley play backing roles and were they not mentioned in the notes list I’d be hard pressed to pick them. What I smell is an animalic frankincense that is like a 1000 x blast of the little pebbles you can buy in the Middle East markets. Patchouli and woods are present after a few minutes and white flowers but not specifically jasmine, my nose also picks some daffodil/narcissus. There is something CHANEL No 5-ish about Amouage Gold Man that I like very much.

Then the whole fragrance turns beautifully soapy on me, expensive, waxy soap like in the 20th century. I’m not sure what the notes are now, the scent has become Amouage Gold Man for me now. A conglomerate scent that is sexy and big but not overbearing (Jin would beg to differ). I find it a very comfortable scent to wear. Intricate, harmonious and nuanced; like lying on a silk, hand knotted rug from Kashmir and still being able to smell the market you bought it in and remembering the people who are fun to bargain with and smile so happily.

Amouage Gold Man Jaipur Carpet Market WikipediaWikipedia

Next morning I still have traces of Amouage Gold Man lingering, buzzing over my skin. Soft woods and resins of no name that have now melded with my own scent; me but not me. Better by far….

Further reading: Non Blonde and Candy Perfume Boy
Libertine Parfumerie has $415/100ml and FREE Australian Delivery
Peony Melbourne has $415/100ml and FREE Australian Delivery
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/0.5ml

What is your Amouage?
Portia x

 

 

Cologne Nocturne by Le Galion 2016

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Post by Portia

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I wrote this while on holidays and then totally forgot about it!

Heya APJ,

So we have been on holidays for a couple of weeks now but I’m getting my first chance to write to you all about my favourite scent from an amazing day spent with the men from Le Galion at the Tranoi event in Paris. They have so much new stuff on the way for you all and I know it’s going to knock your socks off. New releases and a new brand, we were treated to previews and so much information that most of it has filtered from my brain. Sorry about that.

Further down check out how you can be the first to smell Le Galion’s newest release.

Right now I’m at a Slovakian Hot Springs but am too shy to get undressed and go in.

Slovakian Hot Springs 2016 #3

Jin is loving the hot spring in the freezing cold of winter

Slovakian Hot Springs 2016 #1

Our niece & nephew were having the time of their lives. So happy to get to hang out with us and their parents. Jin’s brother took his first day off this year to be able to take us on an adventure.

Slovakian Hot Springs 2016 #2

The lower half of my body is covered in psoriasis and it makes me feel very self conscious so while everyone else is going batshit crazy in the acres of pools and waterslides I am happily ensconced at a table and rugged up to chat to you.

Cologne Nocturne by Le Galion 2016

Cologne Nocturne Le Galion FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, palisander rosewood
Heart: Clary sage, rosemary, thyme, lavender, spicy notes
Base: Cedar, patchouli, woody notes

(Ed: Added the notes after. I was surprised that my guesses wasn’t ridiculously wrong. YAY ME!)
So I am flying blind without a note list because the product is yet to hit Fragrantica and I have completely forgotten the conversation with Nicolas and Enno. What you will be getting is a Portia Nose View of Cologne Nocturne. When it’s released we can all have a bit of a laugh at how poorly I did. No problem, I’m tough.

We open citrus sweet and herbal. I’m guessing the usual suspects of bergamot and mandarin, but it could be pomelo because the sweetness is softer, I get very little pith or creaminess. The herbaceous vibe could be coriander, basil, tarragon or green hay. Lavender swirls around and through. A very traditional opening, attractive and clean.

Cologne Nocturne by Le Galion 2016 #1

Milkiness enters, I can’t decide if I’m getting a creamy sandalwood/amber, almonds or am I smelling a milky byproduct of fig. What I can tell you is that the fragrance warms through slightly and maintains its sweetness, the sweetness of fruits not sugar. Maybe it’s vanilla I smell? Naah, probably not that kind of sweet. Woods play a part but I’m struggling here.

Let’s chat about how Cologne Nocturne makes me feel, where it takes me on a journey too, who I can imagine wearing it. Cologne Nocturne smells super expensive and luxe, more depth and warmth than I expect from cologne, more fragrant twists and a sweet heart that could very easily become fabulously killer in the cool of winter cologne, or the dark of night. You want to smell nonchalant but magnificent. This is the fragrance that doesn’t try too hard, smells like you are comfortable in your skin and don’t need to be making bold statements or to challenge your sense of smell.

Cologne Nocturne by Le Galion 2016 #4

I could imagine snuggling into the scent on a partner or loved one and also imagine wearing it as a seduction tool.

Tranoi Paris 2016 #3The men of Le Galion, here I am with Enno Ebels and Nicolas Chabot. Handsome men who make yummy frags.

Not sure when it will be released as yet but it will be available at LuckyScent and First In Fragrance.

Have you spent any time with Le Galion? Maybe you remember the brand from before its resurrection?
Portia x

Giveaway Kesha&CoKesha&Co

Cologne Nocturne GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 4 winners who will receive:
1 x decant of Cologne Nocturne by Le Galion
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged. Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us what is your favourite Cologne?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 3rd April 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 7th April 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

Poivre Samarcande by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermes 2004

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

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Post by Portia

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Hey there Hermès fans,

I know there are a bunch of you out there. There’s something ultra lux, a feeling of family and extra care, about Hermès that none of the other multinationals have retained. That’s my personal take on them anyway, the company is probably as money hungry and paracious as the rest but with better marketing, who of us will ever really know?

Poivre Samarcande by Hermès 2004

Poivre Samarcande by Jean-Claude Ellena

poivre-sacramande Hermessence HermesHermès Australia

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Virginia cedar, patchouli, paprika, oakmoss, caraway, green notes, oak, pepper

Released as part of the original Hermessence range in 2004. I tried it around then but was overwhelmed by the incredibly over the top grandeur of Ambre Narguile and for the longest time felt no need to even bother with the others. It’s funny, both reviews that I have linked below write of similar experiences but with different of the five first scents. Clearly JCE had his bases covered, but then if we bypassed Poivre Samarcande then did the rest of the world too? Now 12 years on and we still find Poivre Samarcande in the Hermessence range and both Birgit and Clayton have come around to its charms.

Bloom London 2014London Crew 2014

Three years ago while in London with Michael, Val, Tara and the London crew our last stop of the evening was Selfridge & Co. We were all dog tired and emotionally exhausted from a super fun day shopping, eating, sniffing, laughing and generally being mayhem. Tara and I scooted off to Hermès to try the newest in the range at that time Epice Marine and were given some samples, including Poivre Samarcande. The samples were drained and I bought Poivre Samarcande in a Travel Set, yet I’ve never written of my love for this quietly elegant stunner, so here goes……

Poivre Samarcande Hermessence Trees and Undergrowth Van Gogh WikiMediaWikiMedia

How does Poivre Samarcande smell and make me feel?

Well, it opens wet and spicy, An unusual green that is cut through with fresh cracked black pepper and the taste of cutting into a capsicum (bell pepper). Then the green turns a different shade and I’m smelling a cross between electric sawing green wood and the sting of a pickled caper. None of these describe the scent accurately but Poivre Samarcande is hard to pin down. It has the sheer, wet, metallic, oily signature of Jean Claude Ellena yet the nuance is so subverted from the note list that I can only give my impressions.

How does it make me feel? Well, I enjoy smelling like this. Actually, it’s more than that I LOVE smelling of a JCE creation. They are clever and classy, never over the top but weird enough that I enjoy the fun of the fragrance, the mad whimsy that seems so buttoned up until you lavishly overspritz and suddenly they fragrance becomes a thick, ropey, cage of scent. You can see through it but you are captured, overwhelmed and must live the scent story alone.

HermesFlickr

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Olfactoria’s Travels
Available at Hermès stores, online and some large department stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/0.5ml

Which of the Hermès line do you love?
Portia xx

 

Jasmin Rouge GIVEAWAY WINNERS

/ australianperfumejunkiescom

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Post by Portia

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Hey there APJ,

SHIT!! I forgot to draw this. Here we go. Good luck everyone.

Portia xx

Jasmin Rouge GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Jasmin Rouge Tom Ford FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin, cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, black & white pepper
Heart: Sambac jasmine, broom, neroli, ylang-ylang, clary sage
Base: Mexican vanilla, labdanum, leather, wood, amber notes

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x 2ml decant of Jasmin Rouge by Tom Ford
P&H Worldwide

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 20th March 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Winners Are Bodie Strain Sydney Opera House Fireworks Flickr

WILLA

ANNA MARIA

CONGRATULATIONS!!! The winner will have till Monday 4th April 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Calligraphy Rose by Trudi Loren for Aramis 2013

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

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Post by Robert Herrmann

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Hello Fragrant Friends!

This is Robert H. again, writing from my small island home in Washington state, exactly halfway between Seattle and Vancouver B.C. I am an inveterate fragrance lover, occasional writer, full-time business owner, world traveller, ex-Broadway singer, and happily married to an ever-suffering spouse who descends into allergic hell at the faintest whiff of perfume. Just my luck.

Calligraphy Rose by Aramis 2013

Calligraphy Rose by Trudi Loren

Calligraphy Rose Aramis FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Oregano, saffron, honeysuckle
Heart: Turkish rose, myrrh, styrax, lavender
Base: Labdanum, musk, ambergris, olibanum

Now it is no secret that I love rose scents (Actually a charter member of the ‘Rose-Ho’ club if such a club exists) so this had been on my radar for quite some time. Last year Calligraphy Rose could not be found for love or money, and it wasn’t until recently that it started showing up again on Amazon and various perfume websites.

Calligraphy Rose by Aramis Robert HerrmannRobert Herrmann

This ‘fume is an olfactory road trip back in time for me. Here is the story it tells……

September 1974. My then lover and I had flown all night (12 hours if memory serves) from San Francisco to Madrid, sat in the Madrid airport until almost dark, where we caught a small puddle-jumper to Marrakesh, arriving at about 11:00 pm local time. We were so exhausted we could hardly sit up as the rickety taxi sped up to our Riad in the Medina. After a hasty, casual check-in complete with the ubiquitous glass of mint tea, we collapsed into bed in our 2nd story room.

The next morning, waking up early I padded to the french door shutters that opened to the common breezeway, and was stunned by the instant assault on all my senses.

Calligraphy Rose by Aramis Maroc_Marrakech WikipediaWikipedia

The smell of roses. Roses and something green, vegetal, tropical, and slightly rotting. The blinding sunlight against the vivid electric blue tiles of the courtyard below me. The splashing sound of water in the courtyard fountain, and soft voices floating up from somewhere removed. The acrid smell of the leather tanneries just a few alleys away. Jasmine, citrus, clean laundry, musk, saffron and smoke from something…incense? Cooking fires? All of that but most of all, roses. Gorgeous, dewey roses. It was like a dream, or a waking hallucination if you will.

One spray of Calligraphy Rose transported me right back to that moment. This beautiful juice opens with a balsamic burn that goes right up your nose to your brain, and on to back of your throat. Overlaid with rose. The opening is BIG, just a few sprays go a very long way. Amber and smoke creep in, along with honeysuckle and spice. Myrrh, labdanum, olibanum. So many notes so well blended, it’s difficult to pick them out as they flit and dart through your consciousness. Not unlike the colors of an oriental tapestry. One you might find in a Riad in Marrakesh.

Calligraphy Rose by Aramis Dar Si Said museum, Marrakech, Morocco WikiMediaWikiMedia

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Persolaise
Feeling Sexy has it for AUD$70/100ml
FragranceNet has $92/100ml before Coupon

Do you have a perfume that affects you this way?

Cookie Queen + Portia on Tour: London/Vienna 2016

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 17 Comments

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Greetings APJ Readers.

Each time I attend some perfume related gathering I intend to take lots of pictures.

Cookie Queen & Portia on Tour

London/Vienna 2016

Fact is I suck at it. I am overwhelmed by everything that is going on and never quite get it together as I planned. Still, the following pix will give you an idea of what went on. Tara has covered the event brilliantly on both A Bottled Rose and Australian Perfume Junkies.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Val Judith LondonDr Fox, partner-in-crime, therapist, and she’s driving me to Milan.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Val Portia Poppy'sPoppies Fish & Chips, Spitalfields.  Second visit together. ?

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Portia glassesSpitalfields Market.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Portia ready? PLL“How do I look Val?”

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Portia Karen Andrew Val Bonkers Lady Jane Grey PLLBonkers, Lady Jane Gray and me way in the background.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Portia Lila Val Grant Antonio PLLGrant (Basenotes).  Antonio Gardoni (Bogue). Lila (Perfume lovers London). Val & Portia. Chris the Cookie King taking photo.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Portia Kirk PLLMy dearest friend Kirk about to get a nipple twist.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Portia lady Jane Grey PLLLady Jane Gray.  Smitten.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Portia PLLMy favourite shot.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Vienna Portia Neela PicholaPurchasing a bottle of Neela Vermeire creations: Pichola at retail in Vienna.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Vienna Portia Vero KikiVero Profumo: Kiki.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Vienna Anna Maria, Sandra, Val Portia GREEKVal, Anna Maria, Sandra, Portia at a fabulous Greek restaurant

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Vienna Val, Anna Maria, Sandra, Portia trying Le GalionAfter dinner sniff of the newest Le Galion: Cologne Nocturne.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Vienna Val, Sandra, Anna Maria, Birgit, Portia Le Bol
Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Vienna Birgit Portia brunchVal, Sandra, Anna Maria, Birgit and Portia brunching at Le Bol.

Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Vienna Portia tea
Val Cookie Queen 2016 Europe Vienna BlondesWunderBlondesWunder arrives in Vienna 22:00.  To a Portia welcome of donuts & tea.

Around the time that you are reading this I am either packing my bag or on the road to the Esxence in Milan. I have a theory. Three days in Milan, six decent pictures each day, eighteen pictures. That ought to do it. Plus some pictorial updates on social media. My hands are shaking already.

Arrivederci.
Bussis.
CQ

 

La Tierra Del Rayo by Julian Bedel for Fueguia 1833 2014

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

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Post by TinaG

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Hi APJ!

On first approach, Fueguia 1833 gives me the feeling of both utter fascination and being totally overwhelmed. Fueguia 1833 is an Argentinian niche perfumery based in Buenos Aires, however, with no Australia retailers, their range is difficult to access. Some online fragrance companies do sell selected stock, but at last glance Fueguia 1833 have 63 perfumes and home scents in their standard catalogue. Where do you start?

JulianBedel_2014Julian Bedel

Firstly, to the catalogue. Every single aspect of the creation of their fragrances is a study in meticulous attention to detail and a deep passion. The company founder himself, Julian Bedel, is noted as undertaking yearly expeditions to source medicinal and aromatic plants, some of which are then used for the first time in fragrances through Fueguia 1833’s research and development efforts. The wooden boxes which house the fragrances are sourced from native wood from fallen trees, and are crafted in a carpentry school teaching young kids woodworking skills. Everything about the creation of these fragrances is simply beautiful.

In the last year or so Fueguia 1833 have started selling 2ml samples at a reasonable price, so I picked up a set of three of their collections: Destinos, Fábula Fauna and Special Projects.

La Tierra Del Rayo by Fueguia 1833 2014

La Tierra Del Rayo by Julian Bedel

La Tierra del Rayo Fueguia 1833 FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Oak, red wine, leather, tobacco, fruity notes and resins

From the Fueguia 1833 Catalogue: La Tierra del Rayo (Tunuyán) is considered one of Argentina’s most important regions when it comes to high-quality wine production. This perfume was made using chromatography of Argentina’s Pinot Noir wines to analyze the aromatic volatiles in the wine, and then later use the same molecules in the composition of the fragrance.

La Tierra del Rayo Fueguia 1833 Cavalli_Al_Pascolo_Ai_Piedi_Del_Massiccio_Del_Fitz_Roy,_Patagonia WikiMediaWikiMedia

La Tierra Del Rayo opens with an accord of sticky red berries and astringent crushed green leaves. Pepper and wood notes float in and out of the silage. At 1 hour, the wood also becomes quite damp which seems to deepen the berry note, however there’s an overarching dryness to the whole composition.

At this stage, it really does give the impression of a red wine, with a nod to pinot noir’s fruity characteristics and a light touch of dry tannins which run across the tongue after a sip. It’s really quite clever, although as a fragrance it is a bit odd to leave the smell of red wine on your skin – my instinct is that a glass has been knocked over and I was one of the spillage casualties.

At around 2 hours, the dampness of the fragrance has disappeared leaving the smell of the inside of an ex-red wine oak barrel –juice drained away and the barrel slowly drying out. The fragrance has run its course at about the 3 hour mark, leaving a subtle woody musk note on my skin.

La Tierra del Rayo Fueguia 1833 Pinot Noir Didgeman PixabayPixabay

Some friends and I went to an Argentinian restaurant last week, and was very excited to see a 2012 pinot noir on the menu “Siesta” from Tunuyan Mendoza – so I grabbed a glass and enjoyed not only the beautiful wine but the understanding that I had gained about this wine region through testing “La Tierra Del Rayo”. To me, this is the purpose of this fragrance – no so much that you are wearing a ‘red wine’ scent, but much more about the exchange of knowledge through showcasing Argentina’s history and stories.

First In Fragrance has €230/100ml + Samples
Fueguia 1833 has $138/33ml + Samples

Have you had a chance to try Fueguia 1833?

Tina G xx