Holiday Photo Essay Paris, France, Soju & Seoul, Korea

Hey gang,
What can I say but Paris is FREAKING AH MAY ZING! A perfumistas dream.

The amazing Denyse Beaulieu, author of The Perfume Lover, Bertrand Duchaufour’s scent muse for L’Artisan’s Seville au l’Aube, Grain de Musc blog hostess, English -French translator and glam girl around town and I had an appointment to interview her and it was great fun. Look out for those interviews here, Perfume Posse and Express Magazine NZ.

Neela Vermeire and her gorgeous husband Tony were excellent hosts. We were lucky enough to spend a couple of great nights with them. Don’t forget to follow Neela Vermeire Creations on FB and Twitter because there will be some incredible news soon. I can’t tell you anything yet because I can’t remember but as soon as Neela reminds me I will give you an exposé and an interview. Neela, Jin and I all went to the auctions and grabbed some bargains including CHANEL handbag and 2 vintage Hermes scarves for songs.

Aaron, a mate of mine from Sydney, was our tour guide. He has made an excellent match with a Paris local and now lives there in bliss. He was our tour guide, friend, eating companion and shopping expedition master. Aaron introduced us to the auction house. We wer also feted at his home on our last night and ate snails, my first time. Thanks to the crew that night, Gerard and the wonderful ladies.

We did Versailles, the Louvre, the Orangerie, many churches and cathedrals including Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower at night and much more in the way of culture. Walked along the very full a fast flowing Seine, had hot waffles, croissants, onion soup, and many other French delights.

What shopping did I do? I bought two Serge Lutens bell jars for friends, Shalimar and Vol de Nuit Parfums from Guerlain, 200ml of discontinued next month Mitzah from DIOR (they have no 125ml left) and would have bought Jin Cartier VI but one of the Cartier ladies was a liar and a bitch in Galleries Lafayette and I called her HIDEOUS instead, which was perfectly truthful though not perhaps nice. Jin was determined to buy me the Bottega Veneta Parfum in the Morano glass bottle but I persuaded him not to because we have the EdP and till he is a big property developer that stuff can wait.

Since then we’ve been in Korea doing the big meet the parents thing. Korea is beautiful, we have travelled it from top to bottom by train, bullet train 2.5 hours, and it’s so pretty. Jin’s family is warm and wonderful and they welcomed me with open arms. The food was a challenge but I survived and tasted a bunch of new things. We all had a laugh and Mum and Dad even had very heartfelt (translated by Jin) conversations about integrity, trust and love. They’ve been together for nearly 40 years so they’re advice is solid.

Anyway, the holiday is over on Tuesday and we’ll be back to normal.
Loads of love,
Portia xx

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Something Blue by Frank Voelkl and Ann Gottlieb for Oscar de la Renta 2013

Something new kids!!
When I was a squirt bitch back in the late 80’s and early 90’s I was on the counter that housed Guerlain, Worth, Nina Ricci and Oscar de la Renta. His fragrances sold equally to Guerlain and the women that bought them were more often than not very well put together. They looked professional, tailored, hair neat and a lot of chignons and they were busy. Oscar de la Renta must have been doing some great aspirational marketing at the time because they’d come in and buy big bottles, often a soap and body moisturiser and not even look at their receipts as they swished out with their purchases. They were the easiest customers ever and my figures looked excellent because of them. I have ever since had a fondness for Oscar de la Renta and his fragrances.
SomethingBlue FragranticaPhoton Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Linden blossom (lime blossom), mandarin
Heart: Stephanotis
Base: Musk, vanilla
Have you tried Something Blue yet? What did you think? I can’t wait.
Till tomorrow big kisses and a smooch.
Portia xx

Oscar De La Renta Something Blue Fragrance 2013 Ad Campaign

Stolen from the blog art8amby

Craig McDean photographed the latest campaign from Oscar De La Renta‘s Something Blue fragrance line featuring model Iris Van Berne.

Image via TFS.

Coromandel by Jacques Polge + Christopher Sheldrake for CHANEL 2007

Hey Hey APJ!

I was recently lunching with Clayton from WhatMenShouldSmellLike and he brought me some amazing gifts from his OS travels. The loveliest of which, so far, is the 4ml gorgeously boxed CHANEL Les Exclusives Coromandel EdT that I am rocking today. It is my first wear of it and I’m dabbing, so do come on a journey with me.

Coromandel EdT by CHANEL 2007

Coromandel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, bitter orange, citruses
Heart: Rose, jasmine, patchouli, orris
Base: Tahitian vanilla, benzoin, white chocolate, incense, woodsy notes, musk, olibanum

Can I tell you before we start that this packaging has me excited already, the card, beautifully presented bottle and the whole feel is incredibly luxe for a 4ml tester. Also, different sites and reviewers attribute Coromandel to both of these magnificent perfumers Jacques Polge + Christopher Sheldrake but only BaseNotes , that I read, attributed it to both. Interesting huh?

Oh MY! The first rush I get is all the base notes springing up my nose and creating a warm, woodsy and sweet amber-ish waft that was so unexpected from the notes that I gasped audibly. They don’t really leave either as the citruses begin to show their bright and lovely acidic colours. They don’t stay long because patchouli has wandered in shrouded in a lovely powdery floral veil and it seems like I’m sitting in a cafe, there is a breezy cafe au lait waft that is surprising. Maybe it’s the chocolate and vanilla together with the patchouli, ahh, who knows or cares how they’ve created this wonder?The patchouli is like the undercurrent of Coromandel, it comes and goes over time again and again, but I never even get a hint of the flowers.

I am happily and dizzily transported somewhere other. Closing my eyes and breathing deeply it’s as if Coromandel is zen perfume I feel so relaxed and comfortable in it like this is the fragrance I’ve been waiting for. Do you ever feel like you’ve come home? Amazing!!

MilkCoffee wallPaperHerePhoto Stolen WallPaperHere

Coromandel is all about the base for me, and on my skin, it has sped there is under an hour and maintains itself there indefinitely with only a modicum of change as it progresses deeper into itself, warming and becoming more foodish as it fades till all I’m left with is a mildly resinous vanilla around 6 hours later that hums ever so softly above my skin for a while longer before disappearing. I am ordering a large decant to stop myself immediately buying an FB. I am moved.

Further reading NowSmellThis and BoisDeJasmin
I think Coromandel is only available at CHANEL Boutiques
SurrenderToChance starts at $3/ml

Have you fallen for something unattainable lately? Are you going the sample route or another way?

Wishing you all good luck in your searches,
Till tomorrow be well,
Portia xx
I LOVE CHANEL

Si Lolita by Christine Nagel and Benoit Lapouza for Lolita Lempicka 2009

Hiya APJ Family,

I love to troll sample sites and discount stores. Often I will be so taken with a bottle design that I just want to own it and screw the juice, unfortunately there is only so much cupboard space so I am now making sure I love the juice before I buy FB even if it’s ridiculously cheap on the discount sites. Depending on what the product is I will stop by all the usual decant/sample stores looking for the best deal and that’s how I grabbed 5ml of

Si Lolita by Lolita Lempicka 2009

SiLolita FragranticaPhoto stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin
Heart: Pink pepper, sweet peas, wallflower, heliotrope, elemi resin
Base: Elemi, patchouli, tonka, amber

Opening symphony featuring tonka front and centre before fresh cold slices of citrus that warm quickly when the pink pepper and flowers come riding in. The first 5 minutes off Si Lolita is fraught with excitement. A big gushing WOW!! Once the hoopla is over Si Lolita warms beautifully with tonka, clean patchouli and the resins there right through the heart making the bouquet play second fiddle. A background hum of spicy warmth that sits close to the skin if you try to smell it, leave the room though and come back 5 minutes later and Si Lolita has left a gauzy ghost of itself that is translucent but discernible. I am guessing then that the sillage will be fabulous, a scent trail that will turn heads. This is also the sort of “perfumey” perfume that boys know to compliment, and often quite like.

After all that Si Lolita goes a bit every frag and the dry down is a nice amber-ish something but not impressive. Si Lolita is no big statement frag that will give you backbone, sear the eyeballs of your enemies and dry clean the curtains while you sit and read below them. You will smell pretty, sometimes that is all you want, right? And the bottle is a modern marvel, and the price! Si Lolita feels like a scent that almost anyone could rock, won’t offend at work or play and is interesting enough that should you want to focus on it the story will grab you for a while. Otherwise you can spritz and forget it and know that you smell good for about 4 hours, sometimes longer.

si-lolita tesminaPhoto Stolen tesmina

Further reading NowSmellThis and PerfumePosse
FragranceNet starts at $22/30ml before discount
MyPerfumeSamples start at $2/ml but I bought 5ml/$7

Have you tried Si Lolita? Don’t you love the bottle?

Please remember how excellent you are and be grateful for the good stuff, try and think of 3 good things in your life, no matter how small, and give thanks.
Till tomorrow.
Portia xx

Here is the making of the ad, there is a small amount of speaking in French, which I don’t understand, but the rest is extremely interesting.

Here is the finished commercial

Black Orchid by Tom Ford 2006

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Gabriella
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Hello fellow perfume heads!
Well, sometimes my perfume discoveries really make me feel like I have been living under a rock. This is slightly due to the fact that my sampling and testing methods are never methodical or take a logical course. I always just sniff what intrigues me at the time, rarely just concentrate on testing an entire line, and sometimes I’ll get round to testing a new release maybe months after it has been out. In the case of Black Orchid it’s been years. The oriental chypre was released way back in 2006 and when I finally got round to sniffing it, I was smacking my head with the combined annoyance and disbelief that I hadn’t stumbled on this magnificent beauty much, much sooner.
Black Orchid Tom Ford for women
Photo stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: French jasmine, black truffle, ylang-ylang, black currant, Amalfi lemon, mandarine, bergamot
Heart: Orchid, lotus, fruity notes, spices
Base: Patchouli, sandalwood, dark chocolate, incense, amber, vetiver, vanilla, balsam
According to the PR, with Black Orchid Ford wanted to create a perfume that was ‘old fashioned but in a new sense’ and in my opinion, he has succeeded. Love it or hate it, this is eons away from the masses of sweet, fruity patchoulis out there and brings classical retro glamour back on to the department store shelf front and centre. It’s safe to say it’s impossible not to have an immediate reaction to this scent. It is so huge, so va-va-voom, so sultry, it like a diva on steroids.
It opens with a dark earthy and woody truffle accord that is so lush and thick, it almost feels like a perfume in reverse, as if the basenotes have been swapped with the top but still have the latter’s volume. It is the smell of a rainforest in bloom, with boggy, peaty soil the colour of midnight ink, tinged with fruity spices. There is also something there, perhaps some of the white flowers and vanilla, that lends a burnt caramel quality to the earthiness of the mix. As the scent develops, the darkness of the opening persists and I get a flash of green grass which heightens the accord’s mineral quality. The composition becomes more tropical in effect and the truffle accord is enhanced by a strong melon note, mostly reminiscent of honeydew, with lush, dense creamy white florals darkened by a resinous mix of patchouli and amber.  Black Orchid is sumptuous, narcotic and wanton. It is the olfactory equivalent of a spiced dark chocolate pudding and a snifter of brandy.
BlackOrchid imagesdeparfums.frjpgPhoto Stolen ImagesDeParfums
I wasn’t surprised to find the ad for the scent was a very retro and glamorous looking shot of a red-lipped brunette because Black Orchid for me would suit the likes of femme fatales such as Gina Lollobrigida or Ava Gardner. A sexy, intelligent woman that is confident in her sexuality. She doesn’t wink and say ‘come hither’, but looks you straight in the eye and says ’take me on.’
When I smell it, I imagine the following scene: an actress is on a film set in a tropical forest locale. Having just filmed a scene at the local colonial manor, she’s hung her scarlet chiffon ballgown on the back of her hut door. Resting on the balcony, she’s changed into a silk slip but is still in full makeup and jewels: flicked inky eyeliner and red lips; ears and throat emblazoned with chunky diamonds. She’s drinking brandy out of a heavy crystal highball looking out into the starry night.

Photo Stolen ImagesDeParfums

If you’re someone that view today’s modern department store fragrances with a sense of disillusionment and haven’t tried Black Orchid yet, you must at least give it a try. It is just that different. Having said this, according to the sales assistant who sold me my bottle, Black Orchid is the line’s bestseller. If that’s the case, it makes me feel just that bit more confident about the future of mainstream scents.

Further reading NowSmellThis and PerfumePosse
TradeServices has 100ml EdP for $92
SurrenderToChance starts at $4/ml

Have you tried Black Orchid? What is your darkest and sultriest scent?
Until next time!
M x

Holiday Photo Essay: Budapest, Hungary, Venice, Italy, Paris, France

Hi Crew,
It has been a busy week, three countries and fragrance shopping in all of them.

We did our final Budapest purchasing last Sunday starting at the unfortunately closed Madison, then we trotted down very scared to Neroli because we were worried they too would be shut. Thank goodness the gorgeous Ursula, that thin and sparkling SA who seems to know everything about the products in her care, was at the shop and ready for action. I had decided to buy Naomi Goodsir’s Cuir Velours because they were out of stock of Sandflowers by Montale. What a super surprise that Ursula ha found somewhere a bottle of said Sandflowers, so I bought both damn it all. Super excellent purchases BTW. Urslula was also lavish with the free bees after we sealed the deal including fragrance samples and a couple of lovely extras that have already come in useful, I recommend a visit. Next it was to Le Parfums Croisette and the lovely and enterprising Zsolt Zolyomi who owns and runs it, he is also a perfumer and will create a bespoke fragrance for you if you have the time for such lavish extravagance. Here we picked up a great favourite of mine that I have emptied a good decant of and was missing L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extreme, that lovely milky fig that lasts and lasts on my skin and two of The Different Company 10ml travel refills Sel de Vetiver and Oriental Lounge, excellent size and the fabulous aluminium casing is such a fun thing too.

Then we rocked on over to Venice in a dual sleeper that was small but efficient. Next time we will book the Deluxe room, it and we are worth it. PS train travel is awesome for short or middle distance, no waiting at the airport or worries. We wandered Venice like mad things, day and night. We were luck enough to stumble on a couple of perfumeries that stocked niche products. The first was run by two sisters Perfumeria Muschieri at Frezzeria San Marco 1178 which was stocked with an astounding array of fabulous and obscure niche products. Some of their lines are so small that they are held in under ten doors, amazing. And the ladies are so knowledgeable I let myself be guided by their good taste and am extremely glad that they steered me towards Sigilli’s PYRGOS and Maria Candida Gentile’s Exultat. Then on to the Pont de Rialto where we came across another fragrance shop that had a niche and designer range of perfumes, most of which I’d seen already in our travels. They did have their own fragrance range though curated by the very urbane gentleman who owns the store, his name eludes me, but we were given an extremely warm welcome and he and his assistants were ready to help and knew a lot about their products including the history. They also have their own Pont de Rialto range of fragrances of which I bought L’Eau, their unisex fragrance. I also discovered and grabbed one of the Pineider fragrances, Cuoio Nobile, which has the best packaging I’ve seen on a fragrance in a long while. Also while trolling a mall in Venice we found a frag fakes stand and I bought a “Like CHANEL No 5” that wears well for an hour before it veers from its namesake, still wearable and nice but not No 5 . What did I expect for 6 euro?

Now we are in Paris and we’ve wandered through Galleries Lafayette, finding the best Guerlain SA ever Cyril. He’s a hoot, go see him when you are in Paris. Cyril showed us the L’Heure Blue 100-years anniversary case, WOW! Have had an excellent dinner with the amazing Neela Vermeire and her husband Tony, I can’t tell you anything but make sure you like her FaceBook page for NEWS. The handsome man with Jin and I is a great mate Aaran who hails from Sydney but has landed happily in gay Paree. Also was lucky enough to catch Denyse Beauleiu for a coffee, interview and troll through Jovoy. Though she is most unwell, there she was looking a billion dollars and so welcoming and ready to share herself, her knowledge and her story. What a champ, I am a little crushy. Denyse also wandered me into a shop randomly and said, they have the Knize Ten here. SCORE! Grabbed the Limited Edition they were out of in Vienna. Woo Hoo.

I know, I have rambled too long but yesterday was a write off so today you get story and shots.
Love you all,
Portia xxx

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Shopping in Budapest, Hungary and Venice, Italy

Hey Gang,
Running out the door today and fell asleep last night so didn’t get this photo post done. Apologies for its brevity

This is this weeks list, and yes I’m mildly disgusted at myself but I’m an ADDICT. They are all so worthy too.

L’Artisan Parfumeurie, Montale, Maria Candida Gentile, Pineider, Sigilli, Naomi Goodsir, The Different Company, Pont de Rialto, Chanel No 5 FAKE, Cartier Samples

Tomorrow we have a terrific photo essay. All the photos you are seeing are taken by Jin BTW. He is pretty damn great.

Loads of love,
Portia xx

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Voyage d’Hermès by Jean-Claude Ellena 2010 + Hermès S/S ’13 Campaign

I don’t know about you but Hermes is special for me. Even though I’ve only owned a tie and some perfume from them they are, to me, the last word in mass market luxe brands. Nobody else comes close. Even before Jean-Claude Ellena took over the reigns there was some wonderful fragrance coming from within the Hermes camp. At one point Mum had Caleche, a buddy wore 1970 Guy Robert classic Equipage and another swears by their belts. Consider also that by now I am in Venice or Paris and I think I have good reason to introduce to you…

Voyage d’Hermès by Jean-Claude Ellena 2010

Voyage d`Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Amalfi lemon, spices, cardamom
Heart: Green notes, floral notes, tea
Base: Woodsy notes, Musk

What I smell when I spritz Voyage d’Hermès is a clean, fresh, exhilarating swooosh of cold air. A peaceful, citrus plus spice and green-ness follow in a cool meandering, don’t worry about a thing way. Bracing and refreshing Voyage d’Hermès is a little salty and the tea is an ideal of tea rather than a tea-ish fragrance. Something I find really enjoyable is to huff a big breath out of my mouth into my shirt and then breathe the fragrance and me back in together, the warmth and humanity of my breathe give Voyage d’Hermès a whole different feeling before returning to cool, calm and collected. The citrus turns mildly sweet through the heart and it cuts nicely across the tea and general green. Slowly the composition, which is not based in any reality, becomes less intensely frigid and warms through flowers and musky woods. The journey is gradual and not a large change but subtle and quiet. There is something definitively Ellena about Voyage d’Hermès.

Don’t let me make you think that Voyage d’Hermès won’t leave you fragrant; scent bubble and sillage are excellent and it is surprisingly tenacious, by the time it’s gone I have long stopped looking at the clock 6+ hours usually. An extra spritz an hour after the first will keep it on you even longer.

Voyage d`Hermes luxistPhoto Stolen luxist

Voyage d’Hermès is sold as a unisex scent and I think everyone can rock it. The bottle and fragrance make me think you might like to wear it if clever, interesting and thoughtful design, beauty, Deco modernism or SteamPunk are your thing. Whenever I see the bottle it makes me wish to see a purchaser because I have this notion that we would get along, and anyone who loves this spare, arctic and beguiling fragrance is someone who I would like as a friend.

Further reading BoisDeJasmin and Olfactoria’sTravels
FragranceNet has 35ml refillable $55
MyPerfumeSamples start at $2/ml but I bought $7/5ml

Hermès Spring Summer 2013 Ad Campaign

Yet again stolen from one of my favourite blogs: art8amby

Nathaniel Goldberg photographed Norwegian top catwalker Iselin Steiro at Lake Como for the Spring Summer 2013 campaign of Hermès, replacing Dutch stunner Bette Franke.

I think Hermès has done a splendid campaign this year, what are your thoughts?

See you tomorrow, till then wishing you only good,
Portia xx

Images via TFS

Hermes SS13 Man
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Hermes SS13 Woman