Parfum de Peau by Jean Guichard for Montana 1986

March 3, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Portia

Heya Fabulous Fumies,

For years I thought Montana’s DNA spiral perfume bottle was too silly for words. Nothing’s changed, I still think it’s silly. OK, something has changed, now I own a bottle. It was on such deep discount recently that I could not resist. My mate Scott has waxed lyrical about the fragrance and having spent a small amount of time with a vintage mini that Gino gave me I felt it was time to forget silly and go buy the frag. My new acquisition is the modern incarnation and is quite different in the base to the original, that does change the way the fragrance wears but…..

Parfum de Peau by Montana 1986

Parfum de Peau by Jean Guichard

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blackberry, ginger, orange blossom, pepper, marigold, black currant
Heart: Patchouli, jasmine, rose, narcissus
Base: Leather, amber, musk, incense

First spritz opens up sharp, bittersweet, tangy, pissy and rich. The metalic/oily twang of aldehydes and screechy super sonic blackberry and black currant are further amplified by pepper and ginger which give uber sting. Eau de Paeu is big, strong, overbearing and in control, even now in its modern form. What is different for me is that the base used to ground the opening a little, give it depth and tonality, make it lush and opulent. Nowadays not so much so I end up with all this crazy treble fragrance that seems slightly artless, all the arch grandeur has made way for trashy, loud, uneducated and poorly outfitted sluttery. How the mighty have fallen.

Flickr

Yet, I still love Parfum de Peau. The huge, shoulder padded, bravado does still lurk within the heart which is muted by comparison to the remarkable opening. Within 15 minutes the whole fragrance has quietened to a dull roar, only seeming less enormous because you’ve just survived a barrage, a wall of fragrance. The heart gives me the dry, raspiness of freshly ground black pepper, narcissus but a sweeter, softer, more friendly narcissus than the absolue. Also Parfum de Peau’s patchouli and leather make their appearance tempered by the flowers and vanilla. The animal which growled and howled through the original Montana has been tamed, caged, bathed and toilet trained, the tramp has become a lady in a bizarre twist of irony.

WikiMedia

Still naughty and outrageous compared to most of the 21st centuries mainstream and designer offerings and it lasts well at a lower level of hum for hours & hours. Once it hits the heart/dry down crossover there isn’t much change but merely fade.

Further reading: Now Smell This and I Smell Therefore I Am
FragranceX has AUD$66/100ml

Do you have a fave that has been reformulated but you still love it?
Portia xxx

Soap: Let’s Talk Hoarding

March 2, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 38 Comments

Post by Portia

Pssssst APJ,

Want to read a secret? You think my fragrance collection is big, you should see my bathing products collection. O M G! It is Out Of Control. If I live to two thousand years old I will not have used all my soap, shower gels, bubble bath and bath oils. It’s a freaking SICKNESS and I can’t stop. Nor would I want to, it’s fun choosing what to use next or to put in Jin’s bathroom.

Soap: Let’s Talk Hoarding

Here’s the funny thing. I would be just as happy if I had 5 bars of Simple Soap in the cupboard and that was all we used. It’s not that I get more happiness by having more but they are all so lovely and some are so old that they have rarity value (for me) and opening them is particularly exciting. Knowing it could be the last Bal a Versailles vintage soap I’ll ever open, that’s a MOMENT. A momentous occasion to be savoured and enjoyed. Almost as exciting as its first use, or the package arriving, or the last use when you know that sliver has had its final fling.

Today while in the bath I got to open a brand spanking new beauty. L’Occitane soaps are so silky, I love how they feel while washing and how my skin feels after. The Pour Homme scent is soft and lightly refreshing but mainly it has a Western clean feel.
So, here is a small selection of the hoard. I grabbed some of my favourites, some of the vintage and some bought on holidays. Every soap has a story as much as every fragrance does and some are absolutely irreplaceable. Opening the ultra rare gives me an incredible thrill, I’m sure you can imagine.

Here are three Hermès soaps, the beige is vintage Caleche and the maroon vintage Amazon, the Eau d’Orange Vert bought shopping in LA with Tom from Perfume Posse. The Tea Tree is from New Delhi FAB India, behind that is Ortigia Sicilia which I bought from Twisted Lily, Brooklyn NYC Nov 2014, in front of that is a set of Oriza L Legrand bought in Feb 2014 from their Paris store, Saipua Cedarwood with Eucalyptus & Mint bought from Beauty Habit on the Perfume Posse ScentSation Bus Tour.

The Greco-Deco I bought from Peony Melbourne but had read of them on Bois de Jasmin, love the Jo Malone packaging but haven’t tried the soaps yet, Amouage Interlude 4 pack of mini soaps are so lux, Nesti Dante was bought in Vienna while shopping with Sandra of Olfactoria’s Travels and Michael Borg. Mitsouko & Shalimar!!! Who has ever used these? I just love having them. Down the front is Andy Tauer’s Rose soap, a limited edition crowd funding soap I bought.

Mysore Sandal Soap was once made of real sandalwood but I think it’s now mainly synthetic, still smells beautiful and leaves me softly scented, Claus Porto Cerina bought at LuckyScent in May 2013 on the Perfume Posse ScentSation Bus Tour, Bal a Versailles came in its cellophane but I had to open it (smells freaking incredible), Le De Givenchy came in a pristine set with a frag & 2 soaps, Little Stars is from Olympic Orchids and it will blow your mind, CHANEL No 5 soap also came in a frag + soap pack.

They slowly get used, I love to have them and they are all so glamorous.

What is your favourite soap?
Portia xx

Perfume by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for DSH Perfume 2014

March 1, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey APJ Crew,

Recently I purchased Giverny In Bloom from DSH Perfumes (which I freaking LOVE!) and with it Dawn sent me some DSH Perfume from the Peace, Love & Perfume project. Peace, Love & Perfume is Carlos J Powell’s facebook page and he has been working with a few of the world’s best independent perfumers bringing to life their ideas of how Peace, Love & Perfume could be constructed. It’s a really interesting idea and I love that people are getting on board and letting their creativity free.

Perfume by DSH Perfume 2014

Perfume by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Grapefruit, rhubarb, cognac, tropical fruits, basil, pitosporum, jasmine, ambrette (musk mallow), guaiac wood, vetiver

My only question is “Why did it take me so long to find this?”

Graprefruit, almost photo realistic, bursts out of the atomiser. It’s ultra sweet, clean, fresh and vibrant. There is the merest hint of far off urinals that makes it a little dirty too and while I don’t get cognac per se there is a very alcoholic undercurrent. We are in the middle of summer in Sydney and Jin has just discovered how to make dacquiris, Perfume smells like a Dacquiri tastes: delicious, tart, cooling and alcoholic. As Perfume softens the citrus becomes a player rather than the lead and a refreshing green herbaceousness twines through with lovely hints of sweet fruitiness.

Interestingly, just as you think the citrus is about to give up the ghost back it comes full force. How does that happen? So good.

Then later on the grapefruit and musks turn up a very nice sweaty vibe. Did I mention the longevity is excellent with Perfume. It’s cologne-ish but ever so much more.

Flickr

From DSH Perfumes: DSH Perfume is a rather unorthodox pairing of grapefruit, rhubarb, and cognac accented by a luscious tropical fruit accord with green notes of basil and pittosporum to create the “fresh cologne” aspect . A vibrant jasmine heart dries down to a surprisingly creamy ambrette, guaiacwood, and vetiver finish. This is definitely a modern twist on the ‘eau de cologne’ design concept.
We’re releasing 50 Limited Edition Extrait flacons (5 ml Antique presentations) of Peace and Love (retail price: $105); Perfume will also be released as a Limited Edition of 50, 10 ml spray flacons in Cologne Absolue strength (retail price: $48).

Go check out DSH Perfumes, there’s something for everyone at an excellent price point and Dawn does excellent samples and extras with every order.
Which is your fave Indie Perfumer? Have you tried Dawn?
Portia xx

Serge Lutens Masterclass: Paris 2016: Photo Essay

February 29, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 24 Comments

Post by Portia

We are home,

It’s been the most fabulous holiday and I have so much to share. A whirlwind to say the very least. One of my top experiences that we had while away was the Serge Lutens Masterclass. It was unbelievably fabulous.

We were whisked upstairs by Elvire into the yellow room, the table was set for sniffing and then she brought us biscuits and tea cakes, very posh. I was invited to sit in Serge Lutens chair (OMG!) and we were happily led through quite a lot of the Exclusive to Palais Royal fragrances. You have no idea how fabulous.

Before you go booking, they prefer you to be in groups of 4-6. Originally we were to be a 4 but sadly two of our crew couldn’t make it. To make up for that, and make it worth Serge’s time, I had some pre-orders from Australia that I needed to get fulfilled as well as my own list.

Serge Lutens Masterclass

Paris 2016: Photo Essay

The gorgeous walls of Serge Lutens yellow room, hidden doors and concealment are the name of the game.

Sitting in Serge’s chair, where he holds court for launches etc.

The gorgeous Elvire who has taken Lea’s masterclass hostess place now that Lea has gone to Shiseido Head Office.

Jin, bless his soul, ran around taking pictures throughout the 2+ hours. He wanted you all to feel part of the experience, notice there is no paper on the table yet.

The very first Serge Lutens fragrance, Feminite du Bois, in its original bottles. No wonder these are so coveted, some had the scent still inside. SWOON!

We start getting our sniff on. Touches are already prepared with fragrance names and tied with black ribbon. The experience was full of these well prepared little glam spots. Elvire was all over the event and full of discerning insights into the fragrances, all done from memory and with such passion it was easy to get swept away.

As you can see the table is filling up with paper, the ones sticking up are my return and skin test ones.

So beautiful, with a smile that lit up the room.

Jin & I being assholes.

Even the toilet gets the Serge Lutens treatment. The toilet seat was marble I think, or maybe it was the whole toilet. Was so tripping on the fumes by this time that I was seeing spots.

As you can see we were so involved chatting and sniffing that I hardly touched the cakes!

Finally we get down to the nitty gritty. Time for shopping! I bought Rose de Nuit and La Myrrhe for Aussies. Jin bought Muscs Koublai Khan and I purchased Miel de Bois and Fumerie Turque. Elvire gave us a choice of 2 samples each too (then popped an extra in Jin’s bag! He was thrilled) and for each bottle a full set of wax samples.

Should you be going to France and wish to book this marvelous FREE Event there is a Serge Lutens Contact Page, attention Elvire.

Which of the Exclusives takes your fancy?
Portia xxx

Lunarii: New Australian Natural Perfume

February 28, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

Lunarii is an Australian company which creates all-natural fragrances. The company sent APJ some fragrances for consideration, and I’m reviewing two for today’s post.

Lunarii: New Australian Natural Perfume

Lunarii

Queen of Hearts by Lunarii

Lunarii gives these featured accords:
Rose Otto, Rose Damascena, Rose Maroc, violet leaf, spikenard, clary sage, musk.

Described as a ‘Euphoric unfurling of a rose-laden carpet into the sky’. The fragrance opens with a sudden whoosh, an ‘unfurling’, of very vivid rose notes. There is not a lot of sweetness; rather, the effect is peppery and a little raspy. If it is a little harsh at this point, it softens as it develops. Incense is not given as a note; on my first wearing of Queen of Hearts I smelled it distinctly, but in subsequent wearings not so much. Never mind. For me, Queen of Hearts resolves into a clean, serene rose incense (-like) fragrance. It is aimed at a ‘woman of any age’, but to me it is quite unisex.

Lunarii

Summer

Lunarii gives these featured accords:
Frangipani, Tolu balsam, vanilla, lemon-butter

Summer caught my eye because I love the idea of gardens bright with sunshine and flowers, shaded with trees and murmuring fountains. The fragrance is described as ‘A warm summer’s breeze. Youthful and delicate’. The opening gives me a strange, earthy, almost muddy effect for a minute or so, as if I’m getting earth and roots before leaves and sunshine. As time passes, bright florals and a feeling of freshness and ease emerge. I really can see myself reclining under a shady tree sipping a glass of lemonade, and with nothing to do but read or snooze or watch the pattern of leaves against the sky. However, to my nose the muddiness of the opening leaves a trace throughout that makes the fragrance not as enjoyable as I had hoped.

Queen of Hearts and Summer are quite different, but I’ve enjoyed reviewing them together. Pursuing an Alice and Wonderland theme, Queen of Hearts is like the dim, cool hall in which Alice finds herself after she has fallen down the rabbit hole, and Summer is the garden she sees through the little door, and which she eventually finds.

Sillage and longevity are moderate in both fragrances.

Lunarii’s perfumer is Jason, a Sydney-based healer, artist and scientist with an interest in alchemy. His disillusionment with big-brand fragrances led to the launch of Lunarii, late in 2015. There are seven fragrances in the line-up so far, and there is a range of sample and gift sets available.

Have you tried any Lunarii fragrances? Do you have any favourite natural brands?

Jocelyn Fullerton: Cult Of Scent Afternoon

February 27, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi Independent Perfume Lovers,

Cult Of Scent is becoming quite the Independent Perfume Lovers rallying point here in Australia. Unusual, flirty, intoxicating, raw, surprising, mischievous, flattering, elegant and amazing are all words my friends and I have used to describe the work of Jocelyn Fullerton, nose and creator of Cult Of Scent. Hedonist is the only one I’ve reviewed on APJ yet but there are a couple more that I have been sampling and adore.

Jocelyn Fullerton: A Cult Of Scent Afternoon

Learn The Range With The Perfumer

Imagine the chance to be walked through the Cult Of Scent range by the woman who created the fragrances. We will be treated to some of the major component parts of the fragrances and some of the fillers, hear Jocelyn’s story behind each creation, how she arrived at her finished product and get to know a lot more about the process of creating fragrance. We will also hear about Jocelyn’s trajectory from regular person to perfumer and be given insight into that path.

I, Portia, will be providing a lunch of sandwiches, fruit and cakes. There will be champagne punch on arrival and tea/coffee/water available throughout.

We have a maximum number of 12 guests so I would urge you to book as early as possible.

Where: Portia’s apartment in Parramatta
When: Saturday March 19 2016 11.30am arrive for a 12 noon sharp start -3pm
Cost: FREE

CONTACT TO BOOK: Cult Of Scent
Please leave your name and phone details in the Contact Form. First 12 in get the seats.

Can’t wait to see you guys.
It will be our first event after arriving home from Europe and it will be a lovely fragrant housewarming too.
Please come.
Portia xx

CHANEL No 5 parfum: LIVE Video Sniff

February 26, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi Wonderful Wafters,

CHANEL No 5 has a mystery and mystique all its own. No other fragrance on the planet has sold in such numbers for so long. It is revered and reviled in equal measure by the fragrance community but to me its about as lavish and comfoting as a hot chocolate on a cold night while snuggled in a feather doona eating Jin’s home made macaroons and watching films. The ULTIMATE!

CHANEL No 5 parfum

LIVE Video Sniff

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, ylang-ylang, bergamot, amalfi lemon, aldehydes
Heart: Iris, jasmine, orris root, rose, lily-of-the-valley
Base: Vetiver, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, oak moss, amber, vanille, civet

From Coco and Marilyn to me, CHANEL No 5 fits almost every mood.

By Night Black by Profumi del Forte 2009

February 25, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi the Fumies,

I remember trying this a while back but have no memory of the scent. I’m surprised that it wasn’t written about because I love the Profumi del Forte line in general, they are lavish new looks at old ideas. Something about the line smells distinctive and quality to me. It’s weird that I don’t own a full bottle of one yet, Versilia Vintage Ambra Mediterranea is my favourite of the line but it never seems to last till checkout in my cart.

By Night Black by Profumi del Forte 2009

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lime, cypress, mandarin orange, orange, fig leaf, basil, juniper, bitter orange, rose hip, lavender, cypress
Heart: Pine, mate, jasmine, incense
Base: Cedar

A warm, herbal cologne. Singing top notes that are high citrus & woods with a marked creaminess, a pithiness, a dry and warm undercurrent that By Night Black’s notes give me no reason to expect. Very urbane, I can imagine it on a well dressed business person who wants to smell a little outside the box but not outrageous. Maybe it’s the mate that’s adding the creamy warmth. I’ve only drunk it once at Roxana Villa’s place and my memory is of a creamy green drink that was sweet and lightly tea-ish, more like a smoothie. The jasmine definitely is playing a smoothing role too though the heart, which is lovely. Gaia in her Non Blonde review is saddened that By Night Black is not interesting enough, I can’t say I have the same sense of let down. There is plenty of nuance and interesting by play for me. Maybe because my expectations were so low it smells better than I expected?

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

So while I’m falling asleep about an hour after this application I notice that By Night Black has collapsed into something that I know but can’t place, like an everyman’s dry down. A woodsy scent that leads my mind to the 1990s/early 2000s gym locker rooms. I’m falling asleep so it’s a passing thought and then it’s morning.

Next morning I awake and there is something a little off left on my hand, it’s a woodsy/fishy/salty/sweet/decaying scent that while being very light still manages to make me feel uncomfortable and run to the bathroom to wash my hand. So freaking weird. The end.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Non Blonde
First In Fragrance has €168/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

Obviously you may have an entirely different wear and there has been some nasty reaction with my chemistry. It did freak me out a bit this morning though. I couldn’t get my hand under the tap fast enough.

Have you ever had a frag turn feral? Tell us the story please.
Portia xx

Dorina by Nejla Barbir for Dorin Perfumes 2015

February 24, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Robert Herrmann

I will be the first to admit that I can be very finicky when it comes to Iris-centric scents. I loves me some Iris, oh yes I do. Growing up, when the Iris’s came into season, we always had a vase full somewhere in the house, a tradition I have yet to outgrow. (Ditto with Tulips, but that’s another story). There are only a handful of Iris perfumes that I truly love. Dorina is very quickly moving up that list.

Maison Dorin was founded in the 18th century and became quite a favorite of the court of Versailles. As other perfume houses came and went, Dorin stayed ahead of the game, by constantly embracing new emerging technologies, ultimately building a lab in Paris that was the envy of competing perfume houses for decades to come. Re-energized by new owners in 1998, Dorin continues to produce gorgeous perfume, cutting no corners and never scrimping on the finest ingredients and beautiful bottles.

Dorina, released this year is classified as a floral woody musk and is Dorin’s tribute to the noble Iris.

Dorina by Dorin Perfumes 2015

Dorina by Nejla Barbir

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rice flower, rose, aldehydes
Heart: Iris, water jasmine, violet
Base: Vetiver, cedar, heliotrope, musk, tonka bean, iris, resins

For all the notes in the formula, Dorina smells like IRIS, or rather a dreamy sun dappled Monet watercolor of the perfect Iris. Floral? Yes and sweet at times but never cloyingly so. Just beautiful, deep and sensuous Iris, root! stem, leaves and bloom. Powdery but never loud and screechy, just resplendent with quality and that certain “je ne sais quoi” through and through.

Donated Robert Herrmann

From the Dorin site: “ON STAGE OR OUT ON THE DOWN, DORINA SPARKLES WITH THE LIGHT OF A THOUSAND FLAMES.”
This powdery iris fragrance has been created as a tribute to those most rare women who have become timeless icons.
Secretively screened from view by the opaque glass of the bottle, this sophisticated fragrance is the perfect accompaniment to every aspect of a talented and daring woman’s life. From home to the red carpet, she is elegant whatever the occasion.

With 28 perfumes in the range, I can’t wait to get my nose around some of the others!

Dorin has a Retailers Page where you can find your countries stockists

What are some of YOUR favorite Iris scents?

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Bleu by Daniela (Roche) Andrier for BVLGARI 2015

February 22, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by TinaG

Hello APJ!

I have a soft spot for the Bvlgari tea series, as Au Thé Rouge was the first fragrance I ever wrote up for APJ and it holds special memories of that summer. And it changed my life. It all started with a travel size sample of Au Thé Rouge and subsequent hunt for and purchase of rooibos, the “rouge” tea in Au Thé Rouge. From there I started investigating styles of tea, and tea as a fragrance note. Two years later and my life is richer for these experiences; I’ve widened my knowledge of the world, found some beautiful “tea” fragrances, and thoroughly enjoy a quiet cuppa and breathing space now and then.

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Bleu by BVLGARI 2015

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Bleu by Daniela (Roche) Andrier

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lavender, shiso
Heart: Violet, tea
Base: Iris, musk

I was excited to hear about the release last year of Au Thé Bleu, Bvlgari’s fourth in the tea series. It showcases a ‘blue’ tea accord, inspired by one of my favourite teas, Chinese oolong.

Pixabay

Au Thé Bleu is a great cologne to both counteract and compliment a hot summers day. It opens with a smoky tea, cool lavender and subtle iris. The lavender is the star here. The fragrance stays crisp and cool for about an hour, before it warms up with a touch of tonka, giving the whole silage a comforting feel. Over the next two hours it flits around, alternating between warm and cool, supported by wonderfully light musk notes. The best way to describe the musk is clean but warm, not like a cool laundry musk. It’s sweeter, slightly in to musk-stick / lolly territory.

At 4 hours the fragrance has a peppery feel about it. I didn’t remember seeing any spicy notes listed but when I went back to Fragrantica and the Bvlgari website, there is a note listed of Shiso leaf which is described as having a peppery spicyness about it. It fits in well. As a cologne strength the dry down is surprising long-lasting, staying on my skin for about 8 hours.

Flickr

There is a fabulous uplifting quality to this scent, and it makes me feel as if I’m being warmed by the sun, whilst looking up at a blue summer sky across wide fields of lavender. The ‘blue’ accord is sheer and radiant – like holding up a corn-flower blue sapphire to the sun and watching the sparkles of light dance. ‘Happy’ is a simple word but the feeling of being happy can be profound. This fragrance makes me happy, it has a pureness from simplicity which is a pleasure to enjoy.

Further reading: Persolaise and Colognoisseur
David Jones has $184/150ml with FREE Australian delivery

Do you have a favourite fragrance you wear, which makes you feel happy?

Tina G xx

Australian Perfume Junkies

Olfactory Opinions from Oz

beauty

Parfum de Peau by Jean Guichard for Montana 1986

Parfum de Peau by Montana 1986

Parfum de Peau by Jean Guichard

Soap: Let’s Talk Hoarding

Soap: Let’s Talk Hoarding

Perfume by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for DSH Perfume 2014

Perfume by DSH Perfume 2014

Perfume by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Serge Lutens Masterclass: Paris 2016: Photo Essay

Serge Lutens Masterclass

Paris 2016: Photo Essay

Lunarii: New Australian Natural Perfume

Lunarii: New Australian Natural Perfume

Queen of Hearts by Lunarii

Summer

Jocelyn Fullerton: Cult Of Scent Afternoon

Jocelyn Fullerton: A Cult Of Scent Afternoon

Learn The Range With The Perfumer

CHANEL No 5 parfum: LIVE Video Sniff

CHANEL No 5 parfum

LIVE Video Sniff

By Night Black by Profumi del Forte 2009

By Night Black by Profumi del Forte 2009

Dorina by Nejla Barbir for Dorin Perfumes 2015

Dorina by Dorin Perfumes 2015

Dorina by Nejla Barbir

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Bleu by Daniela (Roche) Andrier for BVLGARI 2015

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Bleu by BVLGARI 2015

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Bleu by Daniela (Roche) Andrier