Interview: Neela Vermeire

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Post by Portia

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Hey there Fragrant Friends,

I have a huge apology to make. This interview was done back in April 2015 and the email got lost in the wrong folder. I found it this week and thought it would be really nice to put it up. Neela is one of my mates and I know how much of her heart and soul goes into her fragrant creations, I had a few questions and thought you also might like to read her answers.

Interview: Neela Vermeire

PICHOLA on WHITE Neela Vermeire CreationsPhoto Donated Neela Vermeire Creations

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, Cinnamon, Saffron, Juniper, Magnolia, Neroli, Clementine, Bergamot
Heart: Orange blossom absolute, Rose absolute, Tuberose absolute, Jasmine sambac, Ylang-ylang
Base: Benzoin absolute, Sandalwood, Driftwood, Haitian vetiver

Pichola is out, congratulations, how do you feel after the launch of one of your fragrances?

Thank you Portia! We feel very excited by the generally positive reaction.

I find Pichola a big departure from your previous 4 releases, what lead you down this path?

We did not intend any conscious departure – but I understand what you mean – it is different compared to the first four (and the fifth Mohur Extrait).
We wanted to create a fragrance that reflected the feeling of the light reflections on Pichola. Also that it is a fragrance that could be worn by people who appreciate a rich yet translucent smell.
The texture of Pichola EDP is complex yet at the same time lighter and it feels like a silk chiffon which has colours yet is light to wear. We did not want a heavy hitting white floral that could knock one out but one that could be a comforting and elegant companion when worn.
The first four are perhaps more complex at first glance, heavier and texture-wise like rich brocade silk.

Neela-Vermeire-WET-WILLY

You are famous Neela as Bertrand Duchaufour’s most exacting client, was your fifth collaboration’s creation any easier?

It gets tougher to create something that in our opinion needs to measure up to the existing creations. Ashoka won an award last year and that raised the bar further up and made it even more difficult. It never gets any easier.
We don’t and will never rest on any laurels (that would be rather unwise) – we work like we did with the very first fragrances – with lots of time, dedication, positive energy, honesty and making sure that the creations weave the magic for everyone who encounters them. Naturally they are not all “people pleasers” but what is the point of us creating unexciting perfumes? We want each of our clients to feel transported into our olfactory universe.

There are two types of visitor to Udaipur’s Lake Pichola: the ones who stay in the Lake Palace looking out and the ones who stay on the shore to view the palace in Pichola. Which one are you and why?

I have stayed both on the shore and on one of the two main islands -where the Lake Palace is located.
The view is very different from the shore.
It is one of objectivity and a wide lens view – if that makes sense.
When you are inside the Lake Palace – you feel it is a personal story and it is a close-up. It is subjective detailed and focused view. You see your view of the shore and the lake according to where you stand in the palace and during what time of a day or night.

Neela Portia Pierre Herme 2013

Which are your three biggest countries for clients and why do you think that is?

Difficult to say but off the top of my head
Italy, US, Russia – I think it is because these fragrances sing a song for everyone who has an open heart to listen to these creations.

Will we ever see home or body products from Neela Vermeire Creations?

Yes I would personally love this to happen.
However, as a totally independent company – we need to sell our existing perfumes well to focus on our next creations.
We will not launch a new line until we can make this a sustainable business.

However, we do have some beautiful leather clutch bags and some accessories that we only sell when people request through our web boutique.

——
Thank YOU xxxx

Neela Portia Guerlain Lunch 2014

“It’s hard to be a diamond in a rhinestone world.” Dolly Parton.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and What Men Should Smell Like
Neela Vermeire Creations has €205/60ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $7/.5ml

It’s nice to learn a little about Neela and the way she operates, yes? Which is your favourite Neela Vermeire Creation?
Portia xx

CHANEL: Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

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Post by Portia

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Hey Crew,

it’s another beautiful season at CHANEL. Karl Lagerfeld has worked his magic, or pushed others to work theirs, and the results are so wearable. This is beautiful fabrics cut perfectly and I can see the wealthy CHANEL devotees lapping this stuff up. Bravo! Not really groundbreaking but some interesting reinterpretations and some fun frivolities. The girls makeups all look so soft and I also am happy the beehive is on a return.

I put the Behind The Scenes first because it’s only a few minutes but if you have the time check out the full show. Fabulous.
Portia xx

CHANEL 2015:16 Métiers d’Art showPhoto Stolen CHANEL

CHANEL: 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

Behind the Scenes Film – Paris in Rome

CHANEL: Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2015

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Independent Niche Nerds,

Andy Tauer became known on the frag scene through blogging about his fragrance creation adventures. He was the first perfumer to engage the world in such a way and he and his style of perfumery are loved even though his scents can be polarising. Many people have problems with his Tauer-ade: a sweet citrus/honey/amber baseline to my nose that can last days on skin and indefinitely in fabrics. Personally I really like his style and I purchased a decant of his newest offering from Surrender To Chance which has just arrived. Scott was over and we decided to trial it first on paper and then on skin. It’s even more fun testing fragrances with a mate because different people pick up different nuance.

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Tauer Perfumes 2015

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer

Sotto La Luna Tuberose Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cinnamon, cloves, geranium, galbanum
Heart: Tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine
Base: Tuberose, patchouli, amber

I can’t tell you what I was expecting from Sotto La Luna Tuberose but I was surprised by what I got. The green and oily, petrochemical reminiscent opening still manages to be smooth and is offset by sweet bubblegum. It’s an engaging dichotomy that keeps my nose glued to my wrist. Tuberose, imagine a bunch of tuberose on a table in an air conditioned office, Sotto La Luna Tuberose. Tuberose with that unreal, artificial coolness. We get a lovely sappiness of whitest green, like cutting hydrangeas and their sap.

There are also herbal, tropical, balmy and resinous notes flowing through and both Scott and I were convinced (without looking at notes) that there is a honey that is cleaned of most of its animalics but leaving a thick, glutinous sweetness that has nothing to do with the 21st century craze for confectionery. Maybe this is Andy’s amber.

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer Honey Siona Karen FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

After about 30-40 minutes we couldn’t decide how to describe the smell and came up with three similar but all just wide of the mark: smoky caramel, lightly burnt vanilla or sun pinked skin after a day at the beach. It’s an undercurrent running beneath the tuberose which stays right to the end of the fragrance. For anyone who has ever been upset by the longevity of the tuberose ferociousness in Versace Blonde, SL Tubereuse Criminale, L’Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse, Piguet Fracas or Ava Luxe Tubereuse Diabolique then here is a tuberose for you. Ferocious at the start and maintaining a fun level of outrageous throughout its lengthy lifespan. NSFW people unless you are in a very cool workplace where they like people to be fully fragrant.

How is Sotto La Luna Tuberose different? Longevity, tuberose staying power, opening oily green and bubblegum together and the patchouli/amber is different, unpickable for us as exactly a thing to reference we spent ages trying to find good and easily understandable correlations. Scott said he will now buy a decant to see if he loves it as much as he thinks, being a bit of a BWF hater. Different enough? Definitely.

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer Tuberose Stella Yodo FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
IndieScents has $145/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3.45/.5ml

What is your Tauer favourite?
Portia xxx

Fabulous Department Store Pick Ups!

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Post by Portia

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AAAARRGGGHHHH! Are you still left with a HEAP of shopping to do? Running out of time & ideas? Want to get something with a WOW factor but just can’t cope with another screaming run around? I get it. Today I wandered around a suburban department store beauty section to see what was still available in regular stores that will give whoever you’re shopping for a thrill. Don’t be afraid, we’ve got your backs…

Fabulous Department Store Pick Ups!

Bottege Veneta Shower Gel Bottega VenetaPhoto Stolen Bottega Veneta

Bottege Veneta Shower Gel 200ml: If you are anything like us then you can’t get enough of the original Bottega Veneta fragrance. Jin has already flown through a big bottle and a small one, he’s getting another for Christmas. The matching Shower Gel is AUD$60 at David Jones.

CHANEL le-vernis-nail-colour-18-rouge-noir CHANELPhoto Stolen CHANEL

CHANEL Le Vernis Nail Colour 18 Rouge Noir: Dark plummy, lavish and elegant. Who can resist the double Cs of CHANEL? Only AUD$39 at David Jones so it’s all the glamour and only a little of the price.

CHANEL HYDRA BEAUTY NOURISHING LIP CAREPhoto Stolen CHANEL

CHANEL Hydra Beauty Nutrition Lip Care Balm: This is the gift that keeps giving. Every time the recipient pulls their CHANEL Lip Balm out in public they will feel like a superstar. The ultimate in nonchalant luxury, and then they can say it was a gift. Cool kid. AUD $54 at David Jones.

Crabtree & Evelyn West Indian Lime Shave Soap In Wooden BowlPhoto Stolen David Jones

Crabtree & Evelyn West Indian Lime Shave Soap In Wooden Bowl: I love the lather and the ease of shaving when I use a brush. My skin feels more ready and is less prone to cuts and abrasions. Great gift for the clean, or partly, shaven AUD$34 at David Jones.

DIOR Addict Lipstick Gotha 967 DIORPhoto Stolen DIOR

DIOR Addict Lipstick Gotha 967: Deepest darkest mulberry red, enticing enough to make a priest blush. Every time they reapply this you’ll be thanked quietly but fervently. Gotha 967 is AUD$52 at David Jones

DIOR Hydra Life Beauty awakening rehydrating mask DIORPhoto Stolen DIOR

DIOR Hydra Life Beauty Awakening Rehydrating Mask: 10 minutes to better hydrated skin! Who doesn’t need this gorgeous DIOR gem. This is a good one to gift the guys who care for themselves too. AUD$75 at David Jones.

Guerlain La Laque Coque d'Or Christmas GuerlainPhoto Stolen Guerlain

Guerlain La Laque 400 Coque d’Or: Shimmering gold for Christmas, Guerlain is for the discerning gift receiver. A little less well known and all the more luxurious because of it. AUD$30 at David Jones.

Guerlain Cils dEnfer Maxi Lash Volume Creating Curl Sculpting Mascara GuerlainPhoto Stolen Guerlain

Guerlain Cils dEnfer Maxi Lash Volume Creating Curl Sculpting Mascara Marine: A little hint of navy blue on the tips of your lashes will make your eyes pop whiter and brighter, giving the effect of larger more doe like peepers. AUD$48 at David Jones.

Tom Ford Conditioning Beard Oil Neroli PortifinoPhoto Stolen David Jones

Tom Ford Conditioning Beard Oil Neroli Portifino: Bearded men are EVERYWHERE! It’s as if suddenly in 2005 the razor became anathema to the cool kids and by 2011 the whole world had caught up. Tom’s on the bandwagon and David Jones has 50ml/AUD$72

Yves Saint Laurent Kouros EdT YSLPhoto Stolen David Jones

Yves Saint Laurent Kouros EdT 100ml: Kouros is still gorgeous. Not the urinous, screechy, sexual monster it was originally but now even more wearable and men still smell great in it. I love the new look packaging and it’s AUD$69 at David Jones.

All this from a quick zip around the beauty area in my local David Jones department store. No, not affiliated with David Jones but I wanted to show you that even if you’re running late, or out of money, that there are a few affordable luxury items left within reach.

What’s your last minute gift buying advice? What did I miss?
Portia xx

ck2 by Calvin Klein 2016: New Ad

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Post by Portia

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Hey Gang,

New stuff from Calvin Klein is always enough to set my heart aflutter. Though I was never a big wearer of the Calvin Klein range I was surrounded by it and once I did discover them, either through memory or their general bonhomie, I really enjoy them. There are quite a few in the collection now. Some vintage, some new, all worn with enjoyment.

ck2 by Calvin Klein 2016

CK2 Calvin Klein FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Wasabi, mandarin, violet leaf
Heart: Wet cobblestones, concrete, pebbles, orris root, rose absolute
Base: Vetiver, sandalwood, incense

They are saying available 2016 but I think it might be already available some places. Cool bottle.

CK2 Advert Calvin Klein FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

ck2 by Calvin Klein 2016: New Ad

The ad is cool. MOST of Calvin Klein’s ads are cool, this one goes a step further. Even hinting at same sex couples. I love the gritty fun rawness it captures, like remembering a summer of love in the depths of winter.
Enjoy,
Portia xx

Lann-Aël by Amélie Bourgeois for Lostmarc’h 2007

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Post by Portia

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The Lostmarc’h thing passed me by. I remember there being a flurry of excitement at release but since then I haven’t really noticed much buzz. Someone sent me a handwritten sample of todays fragrance and I had to go do some digging once I sprayed. Having been released in 2007 and still around in the current niche market speaks volumes, also its price is unbelievably reasonable for niche. It was nearly impossible to get into the decant, which is why it’s taken so long to get to it but curiosity can overcome all barriers. I think I may be hooked….

Lann-Aël by Lostmarc’h 2007

Lann-Aël by Amélie Bourgeois

Lann-Ael Lostmarch FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vanilla, hay, apple, wheat, milk

The Lann-Aël opening is slightly dry and a hint of apple but no big whack of it. Quite rightly, general consensus on the blogs is sweet breakfast cereal, think Fruit Loops or Crunchy Nut Cornflakes, sugary, a little nutty and with milk splashed over all liberally. It’s not the smell in the bowl though, no way, it’s the smell in your mouth as you start to chomp it all together.

Lann-Aël by Lostmarc'h crunchy nut cornflakes Breakfast WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

There’s something a little rice-ish about Lann-Aël, Jin’s rice has a very particular smell when he reheats it in the microwave and I am getting scent memory flashes. No wonder this is a hit. It’s summer here in Sydney, temperature is around 35C (95F) at 10am and the sweet warmth of Lann-Aël and its yummy vanilla dry down is working a treat. Not cloying or sickly but balmy and rich feeling.

The opening is the big ticket item in Lann-Aël, after that it smooths to a comfortable vanilla plus some light spices and resins, a sweet amber. It’s not bad or generic but it isn’t ground breaking either. I smell good for hours, 5-6 even in this heat.

Lann-Aël by Lostmarc'h Fairy_passage WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

From LuckyScent: Breakfast in fairyland: lighter-than-air buckwheat cakes; bowls of warm, pudding like cereal topped with cream ladled from the top of the milking bucket; sweet apples “borrowed” by the pixies from a nearby orchard. A delectable honeyed fruit opening eases into a soft and mellow vanilla-tinged milkiness that is as comforting as a mother’s embrace.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Perfume Posse
LuckyScent has $85/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Do you ever feel the need to wear something fun, frivolous and foody? This could be it for you
Portia xx

India Temple Oil by Song of India

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Post by Erica Golding

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Hello you wonderful people! My, don’t you smell amazing today. 🙂

Not to brag, but I smell pretty gorgeous myself right now, and it’s all thanks to my evil enabler friend Kelly. She let me in on a secret, whispering about a little unassuming potion that delivers a breathtaking experience – for less than $10. Tonight, I am luxuriating in a the shockingly lovely glow of:

India Temple Oil by Song of India

India Temple Oil by Song of India AmazongPhoto Stolen Amazon

My expectations were completely blown away when I first inhaled this complex beauty. I haven’t found official notes online for India Temple Oil, so I can only share my wild guesses as to what I have fallen in love with. (Many have told me that it smells exactly like the incense of the same name, so joy of joys, I have even more shopping to do now.)

An initial blossoming rose gives way to a pleasing jasmine bouquet. Jasmine and champaca balance on a fulcrum between round humidity and knife-edged intrigue. Citrusy bergamot lifts the aroma, while a touch of vetiver lends a crisp yet almost smoky accent. Smoothly mellow at the base, familiar sandalwood hums with a hint of oudh.

India Temple Oil by Song of India A_hindu_temple_tower WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

This captivating poetry comes boxed in an 8 mL rollerbottle. I especially appreciate how the bottle arrives with a plastic cork, and the rollerball separate. As convenient as they are, rollerbottles have a tendency to leak (especially when exposed to varying pressures during shipping). Securing the bottle with a stopper is a thoughtful detail, and ensures that the precious liquid arrives intact after its journeys.

It’s not easy to find something so special at such an affordable price point. This is truly a diamond in the rough, and a really low-risk blind buy.

India Temple Oil by Song of IndiaPhoto Donated Erica

Amazon has $8.84/8ml

Do you have this little delight tucked into your collection? What is your favorite inexpensive perfumed pleasure?

I can’t wait to hear your thoughts!
Fragrant hugs,
Erica

Last Minute Gift List 2015

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Hello Australian Perfume Junkies!

How are you coping with the fast approaching “festive season?!” At this point most are either in their element or completely over it! Which are you? If you are like me you might still need to buy some gifts, so I thought I would make another little list of some favorite products I personally recommend…all scent-based of course!

PS Remember: you can just highlight the relevant items and hope Santa or someone finds it and takes the hint!

Last Minute Gift List 2015

Perfume Legends – French Feminine Fragrances Michael Edwards

Perfume Legends – French Feminine Fragrances by Michael Edwards
I bought this special classic book from Amazon last year (approx. $195) and it’s worth its weight in gold. The ultimate gift for anyone with an interest in history and perfumery right through to design buffs, fashionistas, French obsessed and complete fragrance heads. The book is now out of print and is a collector’s item, yet second hand copies still do pop up on eBay/amazon. The ultimate cult coffee table book, who’s content continually expands my depth of knowledge on fragrance and the fragrance industry, as I flick through its beautiful pages. I would like to halt time so I can cozy up and read it from cover to cover a few more times.

L’Artisan L’Hiver reed diffuser LibertinePhoto Stolen Libertine Perfumery

L’Artisan L’Hiver reed diffuser
I have always resisted reed diffusers, however this one is truly delicious. I bought the same fragrance last year in candle form and enjoyed it, but here in diffuser form the fragrance is set off nicely with a great throw. The scent is not too “up the nose” and rather floats around in an atmospheric way. A possibly more appropriate method to create Christmas ambience during the complete fire ban across most of Australia at this time of year. Pine needles, smoky wood all riding on a sweet, dry vanillin/wood base. A personal favorite home scent available from Libertine Perfumery and online for $96.

Santa Maria Novella – Wax TabletsPhoto Stolen Santa Maria Novella

Santa Maria Novella – Wax Tablets
Beautiful and distinctive are Santa Maria’s scented beeswax tablets which for wardrobes or placed in draws to scent clothes and repel moths. Gorgeously packaged and old-worldly to look at, each tablet is decorated with flowers and dried fruits by hand. The scent is super strong so I am just using one at a time. If they were not so beautiful I would break one in half, as that would be plenty for each draw. Peony Melbourne and Franque Melbourne are the stockists in Australia I have seen them in. I have Relax Orange but there was a rose, pot pouri and lavender available too. $48

PrintPhoto Stolen The Beauty Apothecary

Edible Beauty – Exotic Goddess Ageless Serum
This Hyaluronic acid based natural serum gives skin additional hydration without adding more oil or grease. I have been adding it under my normal moisturizer and tinted sunscreen to help my skin hold onto more moisture on these hot days AND it’s weightless! Skin stays nice and plump and on top of that I just LOVE LOVE LOVE the smell. It makes me happy every time I slap it on! Available from Sephora and The Beauty Apothecary

Please let us hear about any yummy scent-based presents you are giving or wanting this Christmas??

Gardenia Soliflore by Dame Perfumery 2015

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Post by Robert Herrmann

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NEWSFLASH: Jeffrey Dame has opened shipping for the Dame Perfumery Oils to Australia. FREE SHIPPING!

Hello Fragrant Friends!

This is Robert H. again, writing from my small island home in Washington state, exactly halfway between Seattle and Vancouver B.C. I am an inveterate fragrance lover, occasional writer, full-time business owner, world traveller, ex-Broadway singer, and happily married to an ever-suffering spouse who descends into allergic hell, at the faintest whiff of perfume. Just my luck.

So what’s my SOTD?

Gardenia Soliflore by Dame Perfumery 2015

Gardenia Soliflore by Dame Perfumery FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives only the note gardenia.

-“What’s the matter? You don’t like Gardenias?”
-“They’re o.k”
-“So?”
-“So you don’t put them on just to…..go to someone’s apartment….for a late-night supper…”
-“So that’s how it is?”
-“That’s how it is.”
Lady Sings The Blues- Warner Brothers 1972

…..and after that first meeting, Billie Holiday wore gardenias for almost every performance for the rest of her life. It became her personal symbol, a flower that like her life blooms for a short while intoxicating everyone who catches the scent, and then once picked droops and dies.

Gardenia Soliflore by Dame Perfumery  Lady_sings_the_blues WikiMediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

True gardenia is a scent that has been difficult for perfumers to capture, and I have any number of various bottles to prove that point….but THIS Gardenia by perfumer Jeffrey Dame is honestly the most photo-realistic gardenia it has ever been my pleasure to wear!

This is not your hot house gardenia, nor the one from the florist’s cooler, ubiquitous accoutrement for so many Prom corsages.

This is a flower blooming in a garden, in it’s natural environment, opening cool and green, medicinal, slightly indolic, but quickly settling down to……REAL Gardenia.

Even my spouse an avowed perfume allergen magnet turned to me yesterday and asked “Hey..did someone give us a potted Gardenia? Again? To kill?” (We don’t have the best of luck with gardenia plants…!”)

I stuck my wrist in front of his nose, he inhaled and smiled and just said “Wow!”

Wow indeed!

Gardenia augustaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Dame Perfumery has $35/10ml oil
Now available to Australia with FREE SHIPPING!

Have you tried the Dame Gardenia or any others from Dame Perfumery? What was your favorite?

Amarige by Dominic Ropion for Givenchy 1991

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Post by Anne-Marie

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For some time I have wanted to tackle a review of Givenchy’s 1991 powerhouse fragrance Amarige but in thinking about Amarige, one of the most divisive fragrances on the counter today, I began browsing not just the online reviews, but some perfume books in my collection. I don’t have an extensive library on perfume but I have a few works, and very interesting they can be, especially the older ones.

So today I thought I would bring you a taste of these diverse published opinions on a fragrance upon which no-one seems to be neutral. Everyone has an opinion on Amarige!

Amarige by Dominic Ropion for Givenchy 1991

A review of reviews

Amarige Givenchy FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, Neroli, Peach, Plum, Rosewood, Violet Heart
Heart: Gardenia, Carnation, Jasmine, Cassia, Mimosa, Orchid, Black locust, Rose, Red berries, Black currant, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Amber, Woody notes, Musk, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Vanilla, Cedar

Released in 1991, Amarige is a colossal white floral which somehow missed the memo that the 90s would be the era of clean, simple fragrances.

Jan Moran:
Amarige is a romantic floral creation, youthful and fresh, lightened by sparkling notes of mandarin and neroli, followed by rich white flowers embedded in a sensual musk, wood and vanilla base. A delicately feminine fragrance.
Jan Moran, Fabulous Fragrances: how to select your perfume wardrobe (Crescent House Publishing, 1994)
Fresh? Delicate? Ye Gods and Little Fishes Jan! I know your book came out in 1994 and that the 1980sa were not far behind you, but really! Even then you must have known that Amarige is about as delicate as the water tumbling over the Hoover Dam. Sheesh!

John Oakes:
Sultry is probably the word to describe this strong, elaborate and passionate perfume … Its unconventionality and breeding place it well above the usual shriek and clamour of reckless ‘moderns’. A woman will either fall immediately in love with it or avoid its uncompromising demands. It is a lusciously exotic perfume – mesmerising and sophisticated. It is Givenchy’s most daring adventure.
John Oakes, The New Book of Perfumes (Prion Books, 2000)
Considering that Oakes’ declared favourite perfume is Balmain’s Vent Vert (‘green wind’), which is stratospherically different from Amarige, his review is a masterpiece of diplomacy. I wonder what were the ‘reckless “moderns” ‘ he was thinking of in 2000?

Luca Turin:
This is the review that put Amarige on the map for innocents like me who had until encountering his book had never tried it. Many of us probably recite this one by heart, can’t we? Here we go:
We nearly gave it four stars: the soapy-green tobacco tuberose accord Dominique Ropion designed for Amarige is unmissable, unmistakable, and unforgettable. However, it is also truly loathsome, perceptible even at parts-per-billion levels, and at all times incompatible with others’ enjoyment of food, music, sex and travel. If you are reading this because it’s your darling fragrance, please wear it at home exclusively, and tape the windows shut. LT
Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez, Perfumes: the guide (Penguin, 2008)
Equal parts amusing and insulting, like so many Turin-Sanchez reviews. Only one star was actually awarded, meaning I suppose that while he and TS find Amarige technically accomplished, LT personally loathes it. Fair enough.

Barbara Herman:
With a jumble of synthetic-smelling fruit notes that smell as jarring as spandex shorts with headbands and fanny packs now look, Amarige’s predictable progression in a tuberose-sweet floral heart and vanilla/amber woody base makes it hard to separate from its sisters (Cabotine, Giorgio, Animale, etc). … Amarige’s sandalwood and cedar base at least helps redeem it by providing depth and texture to the chemical stew that bubbles at its heart. … It’s hard to imagine this style of sweetness will ever come back into perfume, even ironically.
Barbara Herman, Scent & Subversion: decoding a century of provocative perfume (Lyon Press, 2013)

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

FragranceNet has $28/30ml
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml

So, what in 1994 was ‘fresh’ and ‘delicate’ is now a ‘chemical stew’ which should only be worn in privacy among consenting adults. What a difference 20 years makes!

Have you worn Amarige?
Anne-Marie