When I was a younger person Calvin Klein always had a great diffusion line of clothes. I would often choose a Calvin Klein T-Shirt, jumper or belt and his frags were what my friends wore. I loved to smell them and really liked the advertising etc but never did I think I wanted to wear the Calvin Klein fragrant dream. To be honest a part of me was a little sneery at their oh-so-mainstream tastes. It’s only now, when everyone has moved on from the scents that I am finding my way to wearing them. NOW I really like a whole bunch and they bring back fabulous fragrant memories of friends long gone, and some still in my circle who don’t smell like this anymore.
This summer the Pacific Northwest USA has been uncharacteristically hot and dry. To make matters worse, less than 30% of the homes have central air-conditioning. Ours is one of the hot ones! I have yet to acclimate to the 95-100 degree F temperatures that continue to blister the foothills of the Cascade Mountains.
In an attempt to deal with the sweltering heat I pulled out my big, refrigerated bottles of Italian colognes. Sadly, these refreshing fragrances have done little to alleviate the effects of the breathtaking temperatures. The alcohol evaporates too quickly to be effective, leaving not a trace of comforting scent on my skin.
Calvin Klein Obsession
Calvin Klein Obsession for Woman by Jean Guichard 1985
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Green notes, mandarin orange, vanilla, peach, basil, bergamot, lemon Heart: Spices, coriander, sandalwood, orange blossom, jasmine, oakmoss, cedar, rose Base: Amber, musk, civet, vetiver, incense
Sweating over a solution, I recalled a recent comment by Cookie Queen suggesting the use of big orientals in hot climates. Her timely advice and Anne-Marie’s recent post inspired me to dig out the squat, kidney shaped bottle of the original Calvin Klein Obsession for Women from its cool, dark tomb in the lower floor storage. Even though I had a vague recollection of Calvin Klein Obsession for Women as nothing more than a spicy cliché typical of many 80s bombastic orientals, I was desperate enough to give it another try. I resurrected Calvin Klein Obsession for Women from the nether regions and carried her up into the bright and toasty upstairs living area. I gave myself a quick splash and WHAMMO…! The power of Obsession was so uplifting and distracting that I totally forgot the scorching heat. The juice in the old bottle had aged to perfection and provided me with a much-needed respite from the stagnant summer air. The overheated atmosphere of the house also revealed the beauty and complexity of Obsession. After 30 years of neglect I was finally enjoying fragrance notes I had never detected before, including almost everything on Fragrantica’s list. I fell madly for my old cologne and hurried to purchase more vintage Obsession for Women.
I was even able to find the original 1986 Calvin Klein Obsession for Men and imagine that almost every element of CK Obsession for Men (and for Women) is synthetic. The jasmine in my vintage version is probably hedione (methyl dihydrojasmonate) and the musk is most likely civetone. For me Obsession for Men packs the distracting punch of the distaff version and is refreshing as well. I also find CK Obsession for Men to be incredibly sexy! My reaction is probably related to hedione. Recent research suggests that this old aroma-chemical activates a specific region of the hypothalamus associated with the release of sex hormones, especially in women. In other words, hedione might actually turn women on!
I’m wondering if YOU love or hate the various Obsessions? Do you ever wear heavy orientals in the summer heat? Have you tried the Sex Panther fragrance referred to above?
Fragrantica gives these featured accords: Top: Green notes, mandarin, peach, basil, bergamot, lemon Heart: Spices, coriander, sandalwood, orange blossom, jasmine, oakmoss, cedar, rose Base: Amber, musk, civet, vanilla, vetiver, incense.
It’s the damp herbal first blast of Obsession that I adore. Yes, there are softer, easier things to come, but that dark, slightly bitter opening is for me, addictive. After that I get spices of course, although not the florals.
The base for me is mostly amber and vanilla, with incense keeping things cool and dry. The vanilla is far from being sweet and foodie – which is just how I like it. I wear the modern EDT, the stuff you can get for a song just about anywhere perfume is sold.
Obsession is usually classified as an oriental, but through its marketing, Obsession rejects conventional oriental fantasies and metaphors. We get no lacquered spice jars, no souks, no Buddhas or Indian princesses etc. Obsession does not weave sentimental fairy tales; it is about nothing but sex.
The early TV ads were directed by Richard Avedon and make you feel as if you have wandered on to the set of some weird modernist play. Everything is in monochrome, but clearly the scene is vibrant with sexual obsession. In one, an older man laments a young woman (played by South African model José Borain) who has left him (“Was it me? Did I somehow driver her away?”).
In another, that woman is the object of obsession for a beautiful teenage boy (“ … the whispers at my bedside … her arms … her mouth … her amber hair … and oh, the smell of it.”).
The early print ads were shot in Puerto Villata, Mexico, by Bruce Weber and feature, in blue sepia, two (or three) naked, entwined bodies.
Famously, Kate Moss also modelled for Obsession, but that came later, in 1993 when she was 17. Shot by Mario Sorrenti and still in monochrome, the location was a shack on the beach: “Just me and him and loads of film,” Moss later recalled. The ads speak to the photographer’s obsession with his model. Moss was his girlfriend at the time but the relationship did not survive.
All of these ads are edgy. “You walk a fine line, especially in advertising,” Calvin Klein admitted, “if you try and do something sensual.” Sometimes I find them more disturbing than, say, Tom Ford’s quite sexually explicit ads for his perfumes.
No matter what you think about Justin Bieber, he has charisma and having been to his concert in Sydney a couple of years ago I think he also has some talent. The show was fun and he danced his pretty little ass off. I like him even more now he’s doing all the stuff a regular wealthy teenager/young adult does, and doing it large.
I hope you like this little bit of B&W advertising. I think it’s cool.
Recently we showed the return of Christy Turlington (Burns) who was the original Calvin Klein Eternity model in 1988 return with husband Ed Burns as the faces of a new steamy 2014 Eternity campaign. I was so impressed with them bringing Christy back that I went and bought a brand new 30ml bottle to show my support.
Eternity (Woman) by Sophia Grojsman for Calvin Klein 1988
Fragrantica gives these featured accords: Top: Citrus, green notes, sage, freesia, mandarin Heart: Jasmine, narcissus, rose, violet, lily-of-the-valley, lily, carnation Base: Heliotrope, sandalwood, musk, amber, patchouli
To be honest I was expecting it to be terrible, absolutely disgusting and completely unwearable. Having bought it (for almost no money at a chemist) I was then surprised that I unwrapped it immediately to have a sniff.
Fresh citrus blasts its way out of the bottle, a joyful reminder of a hot summers day dream of fresh citrus fruit salad lightly sugared. When the flowers come through they are a 100% faux bouquet, very synthetic, but not bad for all that. Eternity is a simple seeming, light but noticeable, clean fragrance that already has hints of the amber/sandalwood in the base. There is a lightly peppered feeling, cracked black rather than wet bell, through the heart too that is very appealing. I can remember smelling Eternity on people in the 90’s, it captured the fragrant zeitgeist (funny that that word is also used in the Perfume Shrine post) of its time perfectly and I think we are seeing a return to this style of fragrance. They are not scent similar but I think the Serge Lutens, Laine de Verre, is a modern take on Eternity and its cohorts, that 100% synthetic feeling.
Luca Turin blasts Eternity thus, yet still gives it 3 stars: I have always though Eternity a copy of something not worth copying, Jardins de Bagattelle. Smelling them together now I can see why JdB, while arguably better, was a flop and Eternity a success. They art both unpleasantly screechy and soapy but at least Eternity does not pretend to be demure. LT
The rose is not rose-ish for me but I do get a spicy fruit/berry accord that could very well be a nod to rose? Yes, there is a very soapy vibe going on through late heart and dry down but it feels nice, wearable and I can see it still being extremely popular with the mainstream wearing public.
If you are only into niche and indie fragrances, want your scent to be filled with naturals or totally freaky then you will need to look elsewhere. Here we have a scent that will keep you smelling freshly showered and laundered all day, a slightly chemical wash that may not have people stopping and asking you what you’re wearing in the street but they may think that you are clean, neat and healthy and it will make a great weekend or work scent where you don’t want to stand out but would like to be fragrant. On these front Calvin Klein’s Eternity delivers in spades.
There has been a lot of talk about NECRO-Celebrity. The use of dead celebs images for advertising for many reasons: nostalgia, budget, no news worthy diatribes, mistakes or faux pas and best of all no 100% gold plated asshole of a celeb to deal with. I understand the lure of the dead, especially in a marketing game where one wrong sentence in an interview, or even said with friends and distributed, can cause millions of dollars in collateral damage and rebuilding.
In stark contrast to all other marketing trends Calvin Klein has gone for a living, mature couple to front a brand new launch and in one of their cases to re-front one of the Calvin Klein stable of fragrances 26 years later. That is longer than most alive frag models have been on this planet, by about 10 years. 45 year old Christy Turlington with her her husband Edward Burns.This needs a serious BRAVO for Calvin Klein’s marketing team. Still as unattainably gorgeous as ever but selling to a market who have been long neglected in the marketing departments of the big fashion houses: 40+. I think it will reap BIG rewards and I’m surprised the ads weren’t released a month ago for Mother’s Day.
Enjoy them, real; beautiful; people.
Portia xxx
I stole this stuff Lock, Stock and Barrel from art8amby
Calvin Klein Eternity Night Fragrance 2014 Ad Campaign
Shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin in Turks & Caicos, the campaign is exactly what you would expect from Calvin Klein; passionate, intense but always understated. However admits Turlington, “it’s also funny to be intimate with your life partner and have people around.” (source)
Calvin Klein Eternity 2014 Ad Campaign
Christy Turlington and Edward Burns are also fronting the latest campaign image of Calvin Klein Eternity perfume. (source)
Every Monday morning the Sunday QuickSniff Review page is opened and each time I spritz and am near the computer I’ll give a 3 sentence review with a rating out of 5 each for, well, see the key after the reviews. Just some sniffs written quickly, it’s Sunday, I’ve been relaxing with my buddies, dogs and partner. I hope you’re having a good one too.
These can be samples I’ve bought or had sent to me by friends, or a FB that I may fully review later, or have done before and want to remind you of its existence.
OUTSPOKEN by FERGIE for AVON. My mate Penny (Thanks Penny, you SUPERMUM!!) gave me this, she is an AVON lady; honesty compels me to tell you that I expected it to be utter crap and it’s nothing new, can’t hold a candle to Chanel, Guerlain or Serge Lutens, but for the price this is AWESOME! As soon as the squeaky opening settles it is a soft aqueous white floral with a very respectable woods and leather dry down; gone in 2-3 hours on me. This is a good scent if you are on a budget, it wont skunk, is wearable at any time and in most situations, you could pay a lot more and get worse. Around $20 for 50ml S=*** L=** D=**
VIVA LA JUICY by JUICY COUTURE 2008. A youth oriented, slightly fizzy, fruity gourmand that is not bad on my skin!! Less irritating than many in its style, has some depth and follows an interesting course from super sweet fruit, through white flowers to soft amber/caramel base over a decent amount of time. Not my thing but I can see where it’s better than many of its peers and will probably use up this sample. A 3ml spray decant from MyPerfumeSamples only $6 S=*** L=**** D=**
FLOWERBOMB by VIKTOR & ROLF 2005. OK This is the same stuff but with all the irritants put in that they left out of Viva La Juicy. One of the currently ubiquitous fruit-chouli army, on (and to) me HORRIBLE!! but I know it’s a really big seller so it must work for some. I will be giving this away in our Thursday Giveaway. A 5ml spray decant from MyPerfumeSamples $9 S=* L=*** D=*
OBSESSION MEN by CALVIN KLEIN 1986. This is an ex-tester bought supercheap, Thanks Amanda! The citrus and spice at the top of this old chestnut are like stepping back in time to when I was studying fashion and this was what people wore, the general public went crazy for it and it still sells. Until today I’d never put it on my skin but POW right in the sniffer! I know America has a thing for clean smelling fragrances but Obsession has always had a sexy backdrop of fleshy, aroused manliness to me. FragranceNet has 15ml for under $12 S=**** L=*** D=***
Photo Stolen from shirtsays
Scent, Obviously the number 1 priority here is how does it smell. My reviews are completely subjective and will differ widely from your own experience with the scent but it’s a good starting point. As yet I am not a trained perfumer so any and all descriptions are merely that, descriptions. There are plenty of blogs that offer technical details and chemistry, in 3 sentences I’ll pass. Longevity, This is a biggie for me because like enfleurage where flower petals are left in fats to steal the scent, my fatty body works the same and eats it up, yum. So for a scent to last well on me, it will probably last a whole day on you and need a radioactive decontamination shower to defuse it from your skin. Desirabilty, Wrapped up in this is scent, price, house, history, longevity, packaging, availability and a billion other things.
Photo Stolen from bittbox
* in any of these being the, “You couldn’t pay enough to spray this God awful stink on me again, it smells like public toilets in India, long time fridge malfunction while on Summer holiday and the vile stench of poverty all rolled into one.” You are putting innocent people in danger if you wear this. ** means it’s a nothing, wearable, boring, maybe the price is prohibitive for what you get or it’s ubiquitous. You should definitely get a sample of this to stop a buying boo boo. *** is a perfectly good product that smells good and lasts a while at a decent price. You should definitely think about trying a sample or squirt but should you miss out your life will continue. Sample size worthy. **** is the one you try, want a lot but can wait for a birthday/Christmas. It’s better than most of the stuff you’ve sniffed and may fill a void in your library. This is also an excellent decant product 5ml will get you through the season and maybe buy it next year. ***** meaning, stop reading this, grab your cash, credit card (or partners), roll the elderly or rob a petrol station and purchase this product. NOW! If you don’t have this fragrance you could die.
Have you sniffed at all this week? What was it and how did it smell?