Chanel No 19 EdP by Henri Robert for Chanel 1971: Vintage + Modern

January 17, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

The good thing about loving a perfume by Chanel is that Chanel does not discontinue its fragrances very often. You can have an affair for life with a Chanel perfume, and know that you will be rewarded by the company’s constant investment in high quality raw materials and packaging. If you wear a perfume for years you get to know it well, and will notice differences even in newer bottles of the same concentration. Although of course many classic fragrances have been reformulated out of all recognition, sometimes the distinctions are very subtle, and may even be improvements.

Today I’m going to talk about Chanel No 19 EDP, but please do chime in down in the comments if you have had experiences like this with other long-time perfume loves.

Chanel No 19 EdP by Chanel 1971

Chanel No 19 EdP by Henri Robert: Vintage + Modern

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, bergamot, green notes
Heart: Iris, narcissus, rose, lily of the valley
Base: Sandalwood, leather, vetiver, oakmoss

Although the EDP is not my favourite concentration, when I noticed that my old one, bought in 1999, had started to turn I instantly bought a new one. I was prompted especially by having spritzed from department store testers and noticed a greater emphasis on vetiver in the current EDP compared to my old one. Sure enough, when I opened my new bottle (a Christmas present to myself!), the vetiver is indeed, to my nose, more prominent than of old.

My old EDP demonstrates more rose and powdery orris than the new. The difference is not great, but it’s there. And actually, I quite like it. To me there is more structure in the newer version, and it’s more masculine and less powdery.

Years ago when I first smelled the EDP I wondered why I found it a bit depressing. I didn’t know the notes for No 19, and didn’t know that orris (iris) can induce a feeling of melancholy. Once I learned that – the feeling magically went away, and I began to wear the EDP with more enjoyment.

Wikipedia

I’m liking my new bottle very much and strongly recommend it to vetiver lovers, male and female.

A word about the other concentrations: the parfum to me is quite dark and leathery, with yes – lots of vetiver. Portia”s review. The EDT is my favourite. It is (to me) the least powdery; it sparkles with a mixture of spring sunshine and rain. I adore it, and I’m on my … ahem … fourth bottle. I’ve not smelled the old EDC but here’s Portia”s review.

It can be a complex business to maintain a perfume to an even standard over the years, not just because of restrictions on raw materials, but because the natural materials will vary from place to place and harvest to harvest. Ensuring that the materials are produced ethically and sustainably is another consideration.

Flickr

Further reading: Now Smell This and Olfactoria’s Travels
CHANEL counters everywhere have No 19, go grab a FREE spritz
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3.50/ml

So – over to you. Do you have a long-time favourite fragrance which has let you down, or does it continue to bring joy?

Lunch + Sniff: Great Afternoon Fun

January 9, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Portia

One of the things that we really like to do here in Sydney is organise to meet up with mates and share some happy sniffing times. Over lunch, a cuppa or even an alcoholic beverage should the atmosphere be conducive we sniff and chatter, gossip and parse. No one else ever quite gets the excitement of a vintage find or an extravagant splurge. It’s really nice to be able to use the vocabulary of scent with people who speak it.

Lunch + Sniff: Great Afternoon Fun

Something else super fun about having a lunch + Sniff is that you get to try things previously off your radar, out of your price range or so far out of your personal comfort zone and all at no cost other than a spot of lunch. There’s also the fun of meeting someone else who adores that thing your other friends would prefer you not wear, a scent twin, a J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin, Knize, DIOR, Humiecki & Graef or vintage Rochas Femme aficionado. The thrill of hanging out with someone else who even knows what you mean when you say these things is undeniable. Lately I have been quite lucky and over the holiday period have had two chances to Sniff + Lunch.

Both days were spent in the Art Gallery of NSW Members Lounge. I love it there, food is cheap, comfortable seating and they let us spray (Except one day when we fumigated the place with vintage Ungaro Diva) to our hearts content. Currently the walls are hung with about 12 Lloyd Rees paintings that would usually be kept in the vaults, they change the Members Lounge exhibition regularly and it’s always interesting pieces unseen in the main gallery areas.

Scott, Sonya and I are catching up pre-Christmas and smelling vintage CHANEL, Nina Ricci, Guy Laroche and a few others. Sonya & I are so busy it’s rare that we get a chance to chat properly and it was terrific fun. We all discussed fragrance and our addiction to both the scents and the shopping for them, kids, jobs, family, home and the upcoming Christmas festivities. Besides the catch up stuff it was also really good to listen to Scott & Sonya chat fragrance, their noses and ability to parse are well above mine and it’s always instructional to listen to them when they strike fragrant gold.

Here Tim and I smelling the newest Dawn Spencer Hurwitz fragrances, vintage DIOR & CHANEL and some of the early Oliver & Co fragrances. Tim is an avid enthusiast and his fragrance sniffing history is more the menswear reals so I like to bring him some unusual, interesting and vintage stuff. We spend most of the time laughing. It was really fun getting our first sniff of the new DSH lines together, his assistance invaluable in helping me understand the different levels of fragrance held within their gorgeous folds. Yes, there will be a couple of reviews in the near future.

Do you ever get to spend Sniff + Lunch time? It’s so worth it and you learn a LOT more in company.
Can’t find any perfumistas in your area? Try the facebook fragrance boards, here are three of my favourites: Australian Fragrance Network, Facebook Fragrance Friends or Peace, Love & Perfume. You could also start a Meet-Up group in your area, you’ll be surprised how many people nearby are into fragrance.

Who has too many friends? Nobody. Imagine spending some time once a month, or every couple of months, with people who get you…… Be the change you want to see in the new year. Make 2016 the year you connect with some fumies in real life.
Portia xx

Coco vintage parfum by CHANEL: Live Video Sniff

December 30, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey there Frag Heads,

Yes, Scott and I at it again. We did a bunch of these over a few weeks. Really there’s not much content but the excitement of documenting our opening ceremonies and the sillines we go on with makes me smile while watching them back. We are idiots but having a good time.

Please enjoy,
Portia xxx

Coco by CHANEL 1984

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander, pomegranate blossom, mandarin orange, peach, jasmine and Bulgarian rose
Heart: Mimose, cloves, orange blossom, clover and rose
Base: Labdanum, amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, opoponax, civet and vanilla

SurrenderToChance has EdT samples starting at $3/ml

Boxing Day 2015

December 26, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi All,

You have survived Christmas or you didn’t celebrate. Either way it’s over for another year. Boxing Day is here in Sydney.

So Christmas here was a lovely, laid back affair. We ended up with only ten people at table and it was a perfect size. There was loads of room for everyone and no elbows getting in each others way. Jin & I were up quite late getting the apartment organised and having an event spurred us on to get some things done that had been on the list since we moved in. We both slept like logs and then up bright and early to do finishing touches. Jin also had to get his dessert ready so we could throw them in the oven when we needed to.

Photo Donated Kath Waples

This year we did something new. Every family had to bring a salad, meat and dessert. It was all planned in advance so we had a fabulous selection and everyone had enough. It cut down on prep time for everyone and meant that we all arrived feeling much less stressed than usual. Jin made mango dacquiris to start us off on the right foot and they were particularly potent so by the time we sat to dinner everyone was feeling convivial. There were a selection of sparkling white or moscato with lunch and still or sparkling water, add garlic bread and a serve yourself buffet and you have an idea of how it all went.

Christmas Tree & Presents

In between courses we did presents. My lovely haul included a new wallet, reading light, back armour for my bike jacket, gift cards and LOADS of chocolates!!!

Dessert was extravagant. Jin cooked mini apple pies with cream and Jane, my BFFs sister, created an ice cream cake with 4 layers and that was drizzled with ice magic and sprinkled with berries, we didn’t even bring out the Christmas Cake and there was something else but I didn’t even notice it. With dessert I percolated some coffee and made some Irish breakfrast tea and we sat around chatting and laughing.

Ma & Pa Waples

CHANEL No 5 was the fragrance de jour but to be honest I was so busy organising and eating that it was background hum, it’s completely faded now but I’m thinking that a bath is in order and then I’m craving vintage Mitsouko by Guerlain.

Photo Donated Kath Waples

Boxing Day 2015

Today we are having a sleep in and then going for a swim with the same crew we spent lunch with today. Perfect! It feels like a Liberté by Cacharel kinda day but I’m wavering and think that maybe I’ll wear Skin on Skin by L’Artisan, Teo Cabanel Alahine or V Intense by Piguet.
It’s days like today that remind me how freaking lucky I am in so many ways.

What did you all get up to and what frags did you wear?
Portia xxx

CHANEL: Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

December 20, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 3 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey Crew,

it’s another beautiful season at CHANEL. Karl Lagerfeld has worked his magic, or pushed others to work theirs, and the results are so wearable. This is beautiful fabrics cut perfectly and I can see the wealthy CHANEL devotees lapping this stuff up. Bravo! Not really groundbreaking but some interesting reinterpretations and some fun frivolities. The girls makeups all look so soft and I also am happy the beehive is on a return.

I put the Behind The Scenes first because it’s only a few minutes but if you have the time check out the full show. Fabulous.
Portia xx

Photo Stolen CHANEL

CHANEL: 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

Behind the Scenes Film – Paris in Rome

CHANEL: Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

Fabulous Department Store Pick Ups!

December 18, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Post by Portia

AAAARRGGGHHHH! Are you still left with a HEAP of shopping to do? Running out of time & ideas? Want to get something with a WOW factor but just can’t cope with another screaming run around? I get it. Today I wandered around a suburban department store beauty section to see what was still available in regular stores that will give whoever you’re shopping for a thrill. Don’t be afraid, we’ve got your backs…

Fabulous Department Store Pick Ups!

Photo Stolen Bottega Veneta

Bottege Veneta Shower Gel 200ml: If you are anything like us then you can’t get enough of the original Bottega Veneta fragrance. Jin has already flown through a big bottle and a small one, he’s getting another for Christmas. The matching Shower Gel is AUD$60 at David Jones.

Photo Stolen CHANEL

CHANEL Le Vernis Nail Colour 18 Rouge Noir: Dark plummy, lavish and elegant. Who can resist the double Cs of CHANEL? Only AUD$39 at David Jones so it’s all the glamour and only a little of the price.

Photo Stolen CHANEL

CHANEL Hydra Beauty Nutrition Lip Care Balm: This is the gift that keeps giving. Every time the recipient pulls their CHANEL Lip Balm out in public they will feel like a superstar. The ultimate in nonchalant luxury, and then they can say it was a gift. Cool kid. AUD $54 at David Jones.

Photo Stolen David Jones

Crabtree & Evelyn West Indian Lime Shave Soap In Wooden Bowl: I love the lather and the ease of shaving when I use a brush. My skin feels more ready and is less prone to cuts and abrasions. Great gift for the clean, or partly, shaven AUD$34 at David Jones.

Photo Stolen DIOR

DIOR Addict Lipstick Gotha 967: Deepest darkest mulberry red, enticing enough to make a priest blush. Every time they reapply this you’ll be thanked quietly but fervently. Gotha 967 is AUD$52 at David Jones

Photo Stolen DIOR

DIOR Hydra Life Beauty Awakening Rehydrating Mask: 10 minutes to better hydrated skin! Who doesn’t need this gorgeous DIOR gem. This is a good one to gift the guys who care for themselves too. AUD$75 at David Jones.

Photo Stolen Guerlain

Guerlain La Laque 400 Coque d’Or: Shimmering gold for Christmas, Guerlain is for the discerning gift receiver. A little less well known and all the more luxurious because of it. AUD$30 at David Jones.

Photo Stolen Guerlain

Guerlain Cils dEnfer Maxi Lash Volume Creating Curl Sculpting Mascara Marine: A little hint of navy blue on the tips of your lashes will make your eyes pop whiter and brighter, giving the effect of larger more doe like peepers. AUD$48 at David Jones.

Photo Stolen David Jones

Tom Ford Conditioning Beard Oil Neroli Portifino: Bearded men are EVERYWHERE! It’s as if suddenly in 2005 the razor became anathema to the cool kids and by 2011 the whole world had caught up. Tom’s on the bandwagon and David Jones has 50ml/AUD$72

Photo Stolen David Jones

Yves Saint Laurent Kouros EdT 100ml: Kouros is still gorgeous. Not the urinous, screechy, sexual monster it was originally but now even more wearable and men still smell great in it. I love the new look packaging and it’s AUD$69 at David Jones.

All this from a quick zip around the beauty area in my local David Jones department store. No, not affiliated with David Jones but I wanted to show you that even if you’re running late, or out of money, that there are a few affordable luxury items left within reach.

What’s your last minute gift buying advice? What did I miss?
Portia xx

Vintage Parfums: GIVEAWAY WINNER

November 2, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Post by Portia

Heya Crew,

Hotly contested tonight. I wish you all could be the winner. Really excited that one of our newest APJ Family members has won today.

Portia xx

Vintage Parfums: GIVEAWAY WINNER

CHANEL, Guerlain, DIOR, Rochas

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x sample of all six vintage fragrances in extrait/parfum
CHANEL No 5
CHANEL Coco
DIOR Diorissimo
Guerlain Mitsouko
Guerlain Shalimar
Rochas Madame Rochas
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 1st November 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org

Photo Stolen amberinblunderland

Latai

The winner will have till Thursday 5th November 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Top 10 Christmas Shopping List 2015

October 31, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi Lovelies,

We are HURTLING towards Christmas with speeds previously unknown to mankind. How did this year disappear so fast? It seems like only yesterday I was having Christmas at home with Mathew, Jin & Kath, opening up my presents, eating, laughing and having a stunningly relaxing day. Jin, Kath & I were all living in an apartment in Redfern (on the edge of the Sydney CBD) and it was great. You know, I can’t believe I’ve been sporting the BEARD for a year!

Many of you are not Christian, have horrible Christmas memories or are very lonely at Christmas. Depression is made even harder when the world expects you to be joyful and smiling. I too have spent Christmas with the black dog. One of the things that helps me through is organisation, make a plan for the day and stick to it. Leaving the house can seem like an insurmountable mountain, especially in the dead of winter, but if it’s safe to do so then getting bathed, dressed and outside for a short while can really help. Even if it’s just to a porch or balcony. Inside, spend an hour tidying up your kitchen and table and making it a really nice place to have a meal, polish the damn thing if you have to and if you have a placemat put it down, set up your cutlery and condiments. Even if all you have for lunch is a Cup-A-Soup please make it a SPECIAL Cup-A-Soup moment. Do you know someone else who is lonely or in need? Nothing puts the Christmas blues behind as much as helping someone else. Just do it for yourself, helping them will help you through, selfishness harnessed for the greater good is still wonderful.

Anyway, here are my Top 10 Christmas Gifts 2015, I know you have some great ideas to help people with their gift giving, please leave your comments below. Also good ideas for beating the Christmas Blues would be great too.

Top 10 Christmas Shopping List 2015

L’Occitane Shea Fabulous Oil: Seriously, L’Occitane Shea Fabulous Oil is FAN fricken TASTIC! It smells so beautiful, sinks into your skin in moments, leaves your skin feeling soft, supple and with a light sheen. I can’t imagine anyone male or female who would not be thrilled receiving a bottle of this beautiful baby at Christmas (or any other time). Whoever you give this to will be seriously impressed with your good taste and sense. Retailing AUD$45/100ml at L’Occitane Australia

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Miller et Bertaux – A Quiet Morning: On our first trip to Europe together while shopping with Birgit and Sandra Jin spritzed some Miller et Bertaux – A Quiet Morning. It was instant love. We were busy buying other things at the time but later in the evening I got a whiff of him and it still smelled killer. The top notes and heart are put together in such a way that they smell like nothing in my scent memory and are based around Saffron, Rice & Neroli but the deep Woody dry down is where it really shines. First In Fragrance has €98/100ml

Photo Stolen SmartDraw

Surrender To Chance Gift Certificate: Don’t know what to get someone? Know they like fragrance and don’t want to double up or worse give them a scent nemesis note? Surrender To Chance Gift Certificate‘s are a great idea. Your friend will have the joy of receiving your card explaining their gift, you can send them a Gift Voucher via eMail, they will have enormous fun picking their order and once it arrives the fun of wearing a bunch of brand new fragrances. Excellent gift from $1 to $200. I usually give $25 or $50, depending on my financial status and our friendship.

Photo Stolen Parfum1

Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet Bath Oil: I love baths, and here is a fabulous way to soften and lightly scent your skin while enjoying that most relaxing and mentally detoxifying pursuit. The Blenheim Bouquet range from Penhaligon’s is chock full of fabulous stuff, from Shaving Soaps and Shower Gels to EdT and Body Lotion and it all comes beautifully packaged. Aimed at the men but blissfully unisex. Parfum1 has $85/200ml Bath Oil.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Lolita Lempicka EdP: The original Lolita Lempicka fragrance. One of the loveliest, and much more wearable, Angel spin offs. Licorice, Sugar & Violets all drizzled with Vanilla Praline and smoothed over with Musks. I often gift this one. It suits all ages and everyone loves the fun bottle, even the men. It’s sweet but won’t rot your teeth, light enough to wear to most events but fragrant enough to be interesting. Perfumery Australia has AUD$40/50ml

Photo Stolen Book Depository

The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up: The Japanese Art of Decluttering and Organizing by Marie Kondo: If any book could change your life then this is the one. Imagine being surrounded by ONLY the things that bring you joy. Perfect if you or someone you know needs to de-clutter. Marie Kondo is clever and a bit whacko but her book really does give an excellent guide to making your life cleaner, sparer and more able to let in the joy. I’ve not done the full clean but it will happen when I’m ready. Book Depository has the hardback for AUD$19.20 delivered.

Photo Stolen Libertine

Amouage Body Lotion: You want to make someone feel like they are incredible beautiful and important to you? Want them to think lovely thoughts of you every time they get out of the shower and are moisturising themselves? Top quality and smells amazing, my favourite of the Amouage Body Lotions is DIA filled with glycerine, shea butter, aloe vera, almond oil and silicone. A softly fresh bouquet on a base of powdery woods, vanilla & incense. Sensual and elegant. Libertine has $119/300ml with FREE Australian Shipping

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Magnolia Grandiflora – Michel: You are looking for something different, beautiful, easy to wear and vibrant to gift your partner. You are expecting to pay a bit of money but cant go too far over the top. Magnolia Grandiflora – Michel is an excellent choice. Citrus and fresh green up top through a softly white floral bouquet and into a dry patchouli and vetiver skin scent to finish. Unisex, magical and Australian. Peony Melbourne has AUD$185/100ml

Photo Stolen FragranceX

Rancé 6 x 104 ml Iris Royal Soap Box: Rancé has been producing excellent soaps in Italy since 1795 and their production methods remains basically unchanged from their founding. That’s quite an amazing thing. The soaps are presented beautifully, six in a box and they smell incredible. The soap leaves your skin clean, moist and lightly fragrant. This is the good stuff. FragranceX has AUD$73.50

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

CHANEL Misia: You want their friends to be as impressed as they are. Grab the 2015 release from CHANEL, Misia. It shows you are cool, clever and bang up to date. There’s nothing like the thrill of finding something by CHANEL under your tree or given any way a gift can be given. Make sure the sales person wraps the box and ties with CHANEL ribbon, roll it in the CHANEL bag and only then can you put your own Christmas paper on it. Give them the whole thrilling experience. It will be worth it. CHANEL Boutiques and large department stores have 75ml or 200ml bottles.

Did any of these tickle your fancy? What would you like to give or be given?
Portia xxx

CHANEL, Guerlain, DIOR, Rochas: Vintage Parfums

October 30, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 48 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there APJ Crew,

I have a great penchant for vintage frags and particularly love to find parfum or extrait versions of them. Lately I have had a few really amazing finds and wins and I’d like to share the vintage largesse with you. Below are links to APJ reviews of each fragrance and an approximate year of production, the ones without years means I can’t find the correlating bottle years and/or there is no Batch Code. The samples will not be huge but you’ll get enough to have a couple of decent wears (or one really lavish one) so you have a mental reference when you see these lovelies in stores, on eBay or blogs.

These are the good stuff but I also have had a few fakes and dummy bottles come through too. Many times the seller doesn’t know or care enough about fragrance to tell the difference, a good fake can fool the average seller & headspace technology has made it easier to copy and then other times they are bad people. I have also started to notice that they are topping up their 1/2 full bottles with perfumers alcohol, REALLY annoying because you get kind of the right scent but the open is really alcoholic, which can feel like top notes going. Maybe one in 20 that I buy are not 100% genuine.

CHANEL No 5 (1970-87)
CHANEL Coco
DIOR Diorissimo (1987)
Guerlain Mitsouko (1990)
Guerlain Shalimar (<1980s)
Rochas Madame Rochas

Photo Stolen kbaird