CHANEL

CHANEL: L’esprit De La Haute Joaillerie Movie

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G’Day all from the land of Oz,

Sometimes it’s wonderful to dream. I will probably never own a hand crafted or bespoke piece of CHANEL jewellery and I can live with that. Something that does excite me though is watching somebody put so much attention, love and pure magic into what they do. Doesn’t mater what it is, it’s always good to watch masters at their task. There is a certain ease and relaxedness about them, it inspires me every time.

Free VERY Expensive CHANEL

I hope you enjoy the creation of a spectacular piece of CHANEL jewellery.
Portia xx

CHANEL: L’esprit De La Haute Joaillerie (The spirit of hand crafted jewellery)

CHANEL SeedOfHappinessPhoto Stolen SeedOfHappiness

Most Reached For Fragrances 2013: Portia

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Most Reached For Fragrances 2013: Portia

FG Ambre Ceruleen FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Ambre Ceruleen by Huitieme Art Parfumes EdP

This was a Scent Bar purchase while in LA for the ScentSation Bus tour in May this year with Tom Pease. Ambre Ceruleen is a sweet amber as comfortable as an old pair of jeans that fit you perfectly and have softened into your shape. It has an excellent life length, 7+ hours on me, with good projection and sillage.

Amoureuse FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Amoureuse by Parfums DelRae EdP

Lily, jasmine, tuberose, honey and cardamom all together in a sensual, sweaty, slightly rank waft of gorgeous. Every time I wear Amoureuse it’s like a glamour assault on my senses and it gets loads of compliments too. I don’t understand why this terrific, well priced, beautifully blended range is not top of more perfumistas love lists.

Bellodgia FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Bellodgia by Caron EdT, EdP, Parfum, Oil

I am hoping to get to the Caron store in Paris in Jan/Feb. Does anyone know if they do bath products? The only thing that could make this crisp and wanton carnation better is to be up to my neck in bubbles of it in the bath. I love the Caron base, it sits beautifully on my skin radiating warmth and invitation, safety and feral attack. It’s so far from anything that you can buy in department stores nowadays that just for its differences alone it gathers compliments.

Coco FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Coco by CHANEL EdT, EdP, Parfum

Coco is the naughty sensualist, the oriental blockbuster that can cut a swathe through a room. I love spritzing Coco and lying on the lounge playing Words With Friends (TubbyB9 if you want a game), huffing and cogitating simultaneously. It also gets a spritz for nights out, excellent dinner companion because by the time you have sat to eat it is a murmur playing a siren call style backbeat to everything else. Killer.

Fancy Nights Jessica simpson FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fancy Nights by Jessica Simpson EdP, Lotion

This el-cheapo celebuscent is one of my go-to perfumes. It is a milkier, dirtier, longer lasting Shalimar sister. Excellent bed scent that is used by a couple of my perfumista friends to send them to the land of nod. It is a wonderful body scent but also good for sheet and pillow fragrancing and considering how inexpensive Fancy Nights is there is never a question of saving it for best.

Liberte by Cacharel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Liberte by Cacharel EdP

Yes, I know. Discontinued, cheap as chips, everyone slates it. Good. I will gather my discount stockpile and wear it alone. Liberte has the most fabulous sizzling citrus I’ve ever had the pleasure to wear. It’s bold and silly and festive. I reach for the crazy orange pillar at least once a week and enjoy the fizzy, fuzzy madness that is Liberte.

Feeling Good Michael Buble Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia Guerlain Fragrantica

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Lys Soleia (Aqua Allegoria) by Guerlain EdT

To remember spring or to enjoy the summer I think the most delightful Aqua Allegoria in  the Guerlain line is Lys Soleia. The lily, Ylang, Citrus fruit and vanilla all collude in a cheerful sunshine bright burst of lovely. Wearable all year round and an excellent choice for gift giving, even a gift for yourself. Nowadays you can get Lys Soleia on the discounters for next to nothing too.

 

Olympic Amber Olympic Orchids FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Olympic Amber by Olympic Orchids EdP, Parfum

Warm, dusty, dry resins and patchouli, the amber is gorgeously rich and right from the outset feels like a VERY expensive fragrance and gives me warm fuzzy feelings of love and safety. Not only do I regularly reach for it but I also gift it because it makes everyone smile.

Shalimar FagranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Shalimar by Guerlain in EdC, EdT, EdP, Parfum:

There is something thrilling yet comforting about spritzing or dabbing Shalimar. It was the fragrance of my Mum’s clique, has been worn by many of my friends and every time I wear it I love it so much. That sweet swirl of citrus, vanilla, leather and a bouquet are TO DIE FOR every time, every incarnation and strength, with the same rush of memory and anticipation.

Vanille Mona Di OrioPhoto Stolen Mona Di Orio

Vanille by Mona di Orio EdP

When I think go-to fragrance I like to smell good, want an interesting but ultimately wearable ride, love to have a few surprises for those rare days when I can take a leisurely amount of time to mentally document the progression and note parade but also need it to be spritz and go comfortable for the rest of my life. The boozy citrus, woods, vanilla and resins in Vanille don’t give me a typical vanilla ride but something softer, easier and ultimately more wearable on a daily basis fragrance.

Well, I’ve rambled on for far too long now it’s your turn, what did you reach for most in 2013?
Portia xx

Here are a bunch of other BEST LISTS: Persolaise :: The Candy Perfume Boy :: Eyeliner On A Cat :: Fragrant Moments :: PerfumeShrine :: The Fragrant Man :: I Smell Therefore I Am :: Smelly Blog :: Olfactoria’s Travels

 

 

 

Scents of an Australian Christmas 2013 + Recipe

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Christmas 2013 will be my first summer Christmas in 14 years. It’s already scorching and I am in a conundrum about what fragrance to wear on the day…its got to be lighter, brighter, cooler and less spicy than what works for Europe… and yet it needs to be perfect.

In colder climes it’s a time to rug up and reach for spicier, smokier, coniferous, wood and resin filled frags…for those of you out there in the cold this year, here is my hint list:

– Spicy Floral like Carnation by Comme De Garcons
– Frankincense, smoking, straight from a church is Tom Ford Sahara Noir
– For Frankincense, clove and red fruits, I would douse in Jo Malone’s Pomegranate Noir
– Fir/Pine/Woods – a woody gourmand, like Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice, which combines both the evergreens pine and fir and some gourmand sugary, vanilla odors
– Spicy, Clove and Herbal would be Pot Pouri by Santa Maria Novella. There is even something about this one that will help mask the hangovers, colds and flus of the season…perhaps a medicinal quality and a breath of health!
– Cinnamon and Ginger notes from 5 o’clock Au Gingembre by Serge Lutens
– Resinous and Smoky Myrrh, like Eu Sauvage – Dior

NB I have a feeling some of the above would also fair well, even on a hot Christmas day – see how you go!

Scents of an Australian Christmas 2013

Australian Christmas Al_Fresco_Dining WikipediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Australian Christmas smells include…pine, fir, cherries, raspberries, sunscreen, aftersun, leather (err cricket balls), salty air, coconut, mandarins, vanilla,, frangipanis, lemon merange, trifles, chocolate, mangoes, lychees, tropical fruits and flowers, melons, gardenias, honeysuckle, figs, dust, grasses and tropical summer storms…and the odd bbq!!

A few fragrances containing the above:

Les Exclusifs de Chanel Bel Respiro Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Chanel Les Exclusif Bel Respiro feels to me like the end of a hot summer day, gives the feeling of showering and using after sun lotion after a day at the beach. It’s a gusty summer holiday house. Conjuring lots of green –grass and evergreen trees-fir/pine, some citrus, some crisp moisture as a cool breeze starts to take temperatures down…its definitely outdoorsy…I can almost hear the cicadas now….Oh, and a leather note

Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche SkinScent 2013 FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche 2013 warm, sparkling sunshine, beach, sand between your toes, exotic and sensual this is my top choice for summer nights, hot dates, romance and Christmas parties. When I spray this, I melt…it’s HOT, glamorous and gorgeous – milky white floral, coconut oil, tropical flowers, neroli, and a touch of mandarin, something sweet and edible like caramel all combine. So many ‘Pacific Island” style fragrances smell too sweet, cheap and tacky – not this one

Scarlett Cacharel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Cacherel Scarlett From a retro white flacon, blasts a zesty summer, fruity floral fragrance containing jasmine, honeysuckle, citrus, pear and melon. It’s flirty. Drydown is very fruity and strong , good for an outdoor event- barbeque, a park picnic, something sporty, like Frisbee in the back yard.

Amazingreen Comme des Garcons FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Comme Des Garcons Amazing Green unisex, green and leafy, aquatic with spice and smoke, woody and fresh –an Australian Rainforest Christmas! When I sprayed this I got green and citrus, followed by a yummy first rain on bitumen/slightly smoky type of lingering scent. It’s fresh, yet smoky.

My gift to you: Here’s my fave fragrant recipe for Christmas Down Under

Mandarin Ice, with Lychees and Vanilla Ice Cream

Australian Christmas Lychee WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

625g can lychees
1 cup sugar
2 cups water
315g can mandarin segments
1 Tablespoon Grand Marnier
¼ cup lemon juice
315g can mandarin segments (extra)

1. Put sugar and water into pan and stir over low heat until dissolved, boil uncovered for 3 minutes – allow to cool
2. put 1 can of undrained mandarins in blender and blend 1 minute- sieve
3. Add mandarin juice, lemon juice, and Grand Marnier to syrup, stir
4. Pour into tray, pop into freezer until set, stirring occasionally
5. Chill lychees and extra segments, drain and reserve syrup of lychees
6. Put lychees and segments into serving bowls with syrup spooned over
7. Flake mandarin ice with fork and spoon on top of lychees
8. Add scoop of vanilla ice cream

November Sample Challenge Part 2

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Post by Gabriella

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Hello fumie friends!

Well, I am continuing the sample challenge set up by a friend on the Aussie Fragrance Network group on Facebook with some unexpected results. Read on to find out what happened.

November Sample Challenge Part 2

Wooden Fishing Tackle Box bdoutdoorsPhoto Stolen BDOutdoors

Sunday, November 10: One terrific by-product of the challenge is that it has made me organize my very disorganized sample lot. Well, the challenge and the fact that Mr M has very kindly bought me a fishing tackle box for said purpose. I categorized things alphabetically and am finding things that I had completely forgotten about. Feel very excited about continuing now and celebrate with a dab of Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. It’s beautiful, but there is just something in the Serge Bois series that just doesn’t agree with my skin chemistry.

In the evening, I fall in love with Amouage Interlude Woman. How on earth did I ignore this for so long? I adore the coffee, kiwi fruit and green goodness that seems to sparkle on my skin. I must get some more of this, so head off and order a decant of this, Amouage Fate Woman, Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore (another big bottle want) and thrown in some Castlebajac for good measure after trawling the site for a while. I’m excited about Castlebajac. It’s a clean almondy scent that I wore years and years ago in London and the thought of it reminds me of a great work Christmas party.

Monday, November 11: I cheat. I wear Lys Mediterranee. Not a sample. Difficult day at work and I needed something I knew and loved to comfort me.

Wednesday, November 13: Chanel Beige. Wearing this today and the sample of 31 Rue Cambon the other week has taught me something: I love Chanel top notes but not the dry down. Chanel Beige starts so luscious with frangipani and the sunshiny-ness of hawthorn, it’s gorgeous. But I want it to stay this way, and of course, last a little longer like all the Exclusifs, sans Coromandel.

La Collection Couturier Parfumeur New Look 1947 FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Friday, November 15: Oh hello lovely! I’ve had a sample of Dior New Look 1947 for ages and thankfully rediscovered it, due to new not-rummaging-around-in-drawers-for-half-an-hour-superorganized sample storage. This just FEELS like ME and I can’t get enough. It makes me pleased cos I’ve been quite cross at the House of Dior for mucking round with my beloved Diorissimo and Diorella. This just might make up for it.

Monday November 18: Bad, bad M. Have fallen totally off the wagon over the past few days due to sampling ennui. Maybe, just maybe, it is because I have been so busy and stressed at work that I haven’t had the headspace to enjoy my samples. I always need to be calm, relaxed and not half asleep or in need of valium and vodka to sample properly. In fact, I have been thinking that, when it comes to perfume, I need much less, not more. Decide to sell some more partial bottles.

 Isles Lointaines Keiko Mecheri FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Wednesday, November 20: Ok, so somebody must have hacked into my computer Monday or I was possessed by my alter ego as that stuff was just craaazy talk. But today, I had another issue: wanting, pining after a sample THAT I DID NOT HAVE. ARGH!!!! The-sample-that-I-must-have-right-now is Keiko Mecheri’s Isles Lointaines. I blame the boss’ PA. She asked for help with planning destinations for her honeymoon and asked if I’d been to the Amalfi coast and Positano in particular. Mr M and I went on one of our first romantic trips to Paris and Positano and Isles Lointaines was one of the samples I wore. I need to revisit those memories. NOW.

Pulp FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Saturday, November 23: Byredo Pulp. This is another one that’s just been sitting right there for ages, completely ignored, but yet, so readily available. I thought Dionne’s APJ review was terrific, but never got round to smelling this. It’s a luscious, full bodied citrus that just can’t help but make you smile. And even though it’s pouring with rain and has been wet for eons, I’m happy and warm with this on.

Samples are available from:
Surrender To Chance
Posh Peasant

So, how did you think I went with the second leg APJ peeps? Have I mentioned any favourites?

Love,
M

November Sample Challenge Part 1

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Post by Gabriella

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Hello fragrance lovers!

Late last month one of my friends on the Aussie Fragrance Network Facebook group invited people to participate in a sample challenge. For the whole month of November, we were to wear a sample of a different scent each day. I thought it was a great idea, given I have oodles of samples and never seem to get through many before I order more. Here’s my diary of week one.

November Sample Challenge: Gabriella’s Week 1 diary

Perfume Samples Vial Naomi King FlickrPhoto Stolen Naomi King Flickr

Friday, November 1: I decide to ease myself into this challenge by choosing a tuberose: Nasomatto Narcotic Venus. Turns out to be a bad choice. I’ve sampled it before and always had the same emotional reaction: anger. Why? Because to me this is an overpriced, poor imitation of Michael Kors Michael with a cheap metallic edge. Michael is so much smoother and rounder and about a quarter of the price of this. Enough said.

Miss Charming Juliette Has A Gun FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Saturday, November 2: I pop on some Juliette Has a Gun Miss Charming this morning and it’s a great choice for a sunny Saturday – a pretty, wearable rose, I really like it. After a shower, I stay scent free as we’re heading into the city and I want to test a couple of things. (Testing is the same as sampling surely?) I try the Frederic Malle Dries van Noten and its Eau de Wet Cardboard. Lipstick Rose graces the other arm (slightly cheating here as I have owned a bottle of this) and it’s not working either. The grapefruit is so loud today it’s almost nauseating.

Sunday November 3: Wake up with serious spraying envy today. My bottles are sitting on my dresser, winking at me, mocking me. Surely, surely it wouldn’t be too bad to have one teensy spray would it? I pick up my Tubey Crim, ease the cap off and…..

“Oi! Put that DOWN!”

Damn, I thought Mr M was downstairs.

“That’s cheating M. Wear a sample.”

Ok. I put the bottle down and smile sheepishly like the naughty child that I am.

Secrete Datura Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

My sample of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Secret Datura restores my mood immensely. It’s a softer, sunnier take on datura than Serge Lutens Datura Noir. In the evening, I choose Guerlain’s Cruel Gardenia which is a pretty, powdery floral. It’s nice but my skin eats it up in five seconds.

Monday, November 4: I wake up with renewed vigor for the challenge. After all, it’s only a month, surely I can do it. Its Costes 2 today. I love it and wonder why it doesn’t get the same love as the original. I’m sitting at work in my soft, cuddly, cinnamon and spice haze when something-that-would-usually-be-good-but-is-the-worst-thing-ever-for-a-sample-challenge happens. The bottle of Fleur de Liane that I ordered recently arrives. Argh! No, no, no, no, no! MUST. NOT. OPEN. BOTTLE. Must be good, must be good and stay strong, stay focused. I feel like I’m in the perfumed equivalent of those temptation challenges on The Biggest Loser. Do I? Do I? Luckily, I’m at work and won’t have to face this till I get home.
*****
Bugger, so I did succumb. I am the bloody weakest link. But I remedy my lapse by wearing the two samples that were sent with the bottle: L’Artisan Skin on Skin and Caligna. Ewww! These are dreadful and I scrub them straight off. Placate myself by wearing the sample of Honey Miss Portia sent me and this is yum. Go to bed happy.

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Tuesday, November 5: Chanel 31 Rue Cambon. Stunning. I’ve sampled before and each time I ask the same question: Why do I not have a bottle of this?

Wednesday, November 6: Sick in bed. Feeling that dreadful that I really don’t want to wear perfume today (that’s saying something), so I don’t.

Thursday, November 7: Still not well, but the arrival of my Luckyscent October sample pack lifts my spirits. Fresh meat, goody! By the afternoon, I’m feeling well enough to tackle them head on. Amouage Fate Woman wins my heart immediately. It’s such an enigma of a fragrance and absolutely outstanding. I love the chili in the opening and even though it’s gourmand in the dry down, I really love it.

Fate for Women Amouage FrsagranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Friday, November 8: The beautiful opening of Indult’s Manakara captures my heart: it’s a simple mix of rose and lychee, but it just gets too sweet in the drydown. Revisit Amouage Fate again in the evening and still love it so much that I’m already getting sad at the sample disappearing.

Week one has been fun, but it’s made me realise that dabbing on samples doesn’t give me the same emotional impact as spraying from a decant or a bottle. Having said that, it’s been interesting to wear something different each day.

 Samples Perfect California Day OakleyOriginals FlickrPhoto Stolen OakleyOriginals Flickr

So, APJ readers, could you wear only samples for a whole month? How would you tackle this exercise? Would you make a plan or go random? Do you have any tips for the remaining weeks?

With much love till next time!
M x

Beige by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 2008

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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50 Shades of…Beige

I have always had a colourful (and black) wardrobe, and have noticed a section expanding in the past year, with fabrics in shades of Beige. I guess I’ve been discovering the many shades of the colour without even realising…champagne, biscuit, sand, camel etc. Beige is intriguing, understated, classic and classy.

Coco Chanel LOVED it and therefore one of the perfumes in Chanel’s Les Exclisifs range was named after it.

Beige by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 2008

Chanel Beige Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Hawthorn, freesia, frangipani, honey

“I take refuge in beige because it’s natural,” said Mademoiselle Chanel. An elusive colour with infinite variations, beige may seem quite ordinary. And yet, behind this apparent simplicity, it hides a discreet sensuality that builds slowly before revealing itself fully.”

Firstly, I overlooked “Beige” when I was given a sample, and tossed it in my bag. I expected it to be dull. However weeks later when it resurfaced I was immediately intrigued upon first sniff…not love, mind you, but intrigue. It was white blossoms and general prettiness…but what else was catching my attention and raising an eyebrow? Timing was perfect, it was spring, the sun was out, the air was full of blossoms and I was about to go for a walk down a countryside lane. I needed to know more. I spritzed it on and started the adventure.

CHANEL Beige CHANEL Frangipani Nico Nelson FlickrPhoto Stolen Nico Nelson Flickr

Freshly cut white florals, and blossoms smothered me. Sweet freesias, fresh and green, a honey note, but not too sweet…perhaps even slightly dry…a hint of honeysuckle? Before long, and just in the nick of time, beautiful creamy hawthorn notes arose, balancing the lot and steering the aroma away from sickly sweet. Deeper in I found something slightly fruity/tropical…was that frangipani? I was almost skipping, engulfed by its sweet and feminine charm. Surprised I liked it so much. Here was a clean, fresh and uplifting fragrance. I was uplifted in a way similar to when I wear Chanel’s Cristalle Eau Verte, and yet there is something richer, creamier, elegant and more rounded in Beige after the initial notes dissipate. It’s not a surprise both fragrances were made by the same “nose”, the infamous, Jaques Polge.

Chanel Beige Chanel Honey_Bee WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Dry down continued to a honeyed, creamy, soapy scent, which verges on familiar, some elusive bar of soap, but in no way cheap. This is where I thought it would plateau. Then I accidently breathed out before my next sniff, which was an amazing accident, as with the hot air, hints of spice kicked in, adding some sultry, sensual tones, along with the now robust, waxiness of hawthorn. What started out as such a “daytime” fragrance suddenly gave promise of something that could really take you further into the evening. Wear this to the next spring wedding you attend, ladies….and be sure someone gets up close and personal with their HOT breath!

Chanel Beige Chanel Hawthorn net_efekt FlickrPhoto Stolen net_efekt  Flickr

Beige is beginning or memory of spring, with a promise of summer. There is a naturalness about it and perhaps why this fragrance works. An enjoyable wear.

Beige can be bought at most CHANEL Boutiques and some big Department Stores
Surrender To Chance starts at $4/ml

Jaques Polge has done a great job bringing the many facets of this colour to life for us. Have you tried Beige?
Ainslie Walker x

Chanel 28 La Pausa by Jacques Polge for Les Exclusifs de Chanel 2007

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Post by Dionne

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All the Iris Fiends in the House say Yeah…

Hey, my niche nerds!
Today I’ll wax effusive about one of my all-time favorite frags, 28 La Pausa. Not only is this my numero uno iris pick, but it sits in my all-time top three perfumes.

Now I don’t know if anyone else is like this, but as I get to know a perfume, associations start to develop: an image or a painting, a texture, a feeling or scenario, a specific memory, a color, a place. Everything eventually gets a story. And for me, the iris note has turned into a woman. She’s tall and slender, blond hair done up in a chignon, elegant and intelligent and often intimidating. I like that about her, her cool strength. And I borrow some of that strength when I wear iris, it’s emotional armor for me.

Chanel 28 La Pausa Quentin Bryce WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

My mental image for 28 La Pausa is that lovely woman now in her early 70’s. She’s still tall and slender, still elegant with her white hair in a chic short cut, but the steel is now tempered with kindness. She adores her grandchildren and has a gentle, easy humor and is quick to smile. Her mind is sharp, but she’s become a master at putting you at your ease. (OK, I’m totally cheating with this particular image, because I know someone exactly like this. She’s marvelous, a good friend, and the perfect match in my mind for 28 LP.)

28 La Pausa by Chanel 2007

Chanel 28 La Pausa FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Leather, rose, orris

If I was to place 28 La Pausa in the iris continuum, it’s towards the violet end instead of the carrot, woodsy instead of metallic. Nowhere near as powdery as Infusion d’Iris, and it doesn’t have the cosmetics vibe of Dior Homme, either; the powder aspect in this just seems more natural, like nothing’s been added to augment it. Not as cool as Iris Silver Mist because it’s got a hint of musk, but not as warm as Equistrius either. If you’re starting to sense a Goldilocks theme here, you’re right. This hits my sweet spot of juuuust right in the iris line-up; no wonder it’s in my top three.

Chanel 28 La Pausa Iris Alaska WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Also, there’s one thing about 28 La Pausa that I’ve never encountered in another iris frag, and that’s the vetiver hanging out in the background. Luca Turin’s review in Perfumes: The Guide mentions the vetiver in the base, and for the longest time I had no idea what he was talking about. And then all of a sudden one day there it was…. Tadaa! How did I ever miss it? Actually, I know exactly how I missed it. Somehow Jacques Polge managed to wrestle this very distinctive note into playing backup, which to my mind is no small feat. Ladies and gentleman, this is how you blend perfumery notes. Kudos, Monsieur Polge. It’s interesting to see notes listed for 28 La Pausa, as sometimes vetiver isn’t even listed.

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Olfactoria’s Travels
28 La Pausa is still available in CHANEL Boutiques, you may have to hurry though (the SA in Sydney’s Bondi Junction has it in stock)
Surrender To Chance starts at $4/ml

Chanel 28 La Pausa vanrah DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

Last off, a caveat and a heads-up. You’ve likely heard about 28 LP’s poor longevity. It’s true that scent-glue skin is a real advantage when wearing this frag, but even if you don’t, the quietness of the sillage means you can go crazy with the sprays without gassing out the neighborhood, and the pale color of the just means you can spray on fabric without staining.

If you haven’t had a chance yet to try this lovely fragrance, now would be a good time. With the introduction of 1932 to the Les Exclusifs line, 28 La Pausa is being discontinued. I wish Chanel hadn’t made that decision, but economics rule. And remember how 200ml seemed so large when the line first came out? If you’re going to stock up, it’s good to have options.

Happy spraying!
Dionne

CHANEL Bois des Iles by Ernest Beaux 1926

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Hello Fume Heads,

Not so long ago friend and APJ reviewer Michael was over and he was wondering about Bois des Iles (Wood Islands or Islands of Wood) so I went and grabbed my decant. Though I’d spritzed it a couple of times and have a few wonderful memories of wearing it on our holiday this year, I had never taken time to understand the beauty behind this CHANEL princess of a perfume.

CHANEL Bois des Iles 1926

Bois des Iles Chanel FragranticaPhoton Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, bergamot, neroli , coriander, mandarin, peach
Heart: Jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, orris, iris, ylang-ylang, lilac
Base: Vetiver, amber,  sandalwood, benzoin, vanilla, opoponax, musk

Bois des Iles fizzy, fun and fruity opening with a slightly green bent opens up bigger than expected, I know it doesn’t last but the first few minutes could be the slightly muted grand entrance of an 80s blockbuster, so much going on in a fleeting snippet like watching the cars zoom off at the start of an all day car race. After the fireworks Bois des Iles settles into a still slightly zingy, spicy, floral bouquet but sadly on my skin I completely miss the oft talked about and loved gingerbread accord. I get jasmine and ylang ylang as my stand out performers, though the rest are there it is as harmonious background with a quietly insistent sweet woody baseline.

Bois des Iles Chanel FoxHarborPhoto Stolen FoxHarbor

Later we welcome the musky woods with vanilla and various resins in the base. This is the sandalwood dream I remember of early Samsara, a smooth creamy, buttery sweet sandalwood with none of the camphorous/eucalyptus squeaky dryness of modern sandalwoods or the thin artificiality of many of the reinventions through science. Interestingly, Kafkaesque writes that Jacques Polge’s modern Bois des Iles is an imagined sandalwood, an accord created without the use of sandalwood, WOW and Double WOW! A sensual, soft yet lingering masterpiece.

973020_10201291991601593_1959611764_nBois des Iles will forever remind me of Paris,  Jin and my journey there earlier in 2013, our friends Aaran & Gerard hosted us while we were there and in their home was a beautiful stained glass double door panel by a very famous glass artist, sadly he sold it recently, and the wonderful art deco/industrial piece is what I was most astonished by in his home while wearing Bois des Iles. Made around the same time, I think, as the glass doors cum art wall piece it all felt very elegant at the time and now that I’ve done some homework the resonances are striking.

From the CHANEL site: Paris, 1926. ‘Art deco’ is all the rage, exoticism fascinates, and jazz stirs passions. People dream of faraway lands and precious woods. Once again, Coco Chanel shakes up the history of perfume by launching the first woody fragrance for women. An intoxicating, enveloping, warm, sensual, spiraling scent. It’s all there: the precious woods, the opiate scents and magnificent, languid flowers. The fragrance is a mysterious, faraway continent in itself.

Further reading: Kafkaesque and Olfactoria’s Travels
Available exclusively in the CHANEL Fragrance and Beauty Boutiques
Surrender To Chance has Bois des Iles EdT from $4/ml and Parfum from $6/.25 ml

What was your Bois des Iles experience? Have you, or do you want to try it?
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx

 

Karl Lagerfeld Interview – CHANEL S/S14 Ready-to-Wear

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Hi Gang,

Karl Lagerfield has been inspiring and creating since before I went to Fashion School. His name is synonymous with innovation, elegance and lately with wearability: one of the most credible designers who I think will go down in history as one of the greats. Here he talks about the CHANEL Spring and Summer Ready To Wear collection for 2014. I like him and his take on fashion.

Coco CHANEL Jerine Lay FlickrPhoto stolen Jerine Lay Flickr

Please enjoy.

Portia xx

CHANEL Karl Lagerfeld Interview

Spring-Summer 2014 Ready-to-Wear CHANEL show

CHANEL No 19: Vintage EdC by Henri Robert 1970

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Hello Vintage Lovers,

One of the things that often surprises me is that on Etsy and eBay sometimes you can still find amazing bargains. Recently I was lucky enough to find a 3/4 full 45ml CHANEL 19 EdC, the spritz in thesilver satin finish case with gold waist and CHANEL C’s on top. It’s a beautiful case in its own right before I even get to the juice, so reminiscent of times past and when owning some CHANEL mass market fragrance was to feel rich and pampered.

CHANEL No 19: Vintage EdC by Henri Robert 1970

Chanel No 19 Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, bergamot, green notes
Heart: Iris, narcissus, rose, lily of the valley
Base: Sandalwood, leather, vetiver, oakmoss

BaseNotes gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, Bergamot, Neroli, Hyacinth
Heart: Rose, Orris, Jasmine, Narcissus, Muguet, Ylang-Ylang
Base: Musk, Sandal, Oakmoss, Leather, Cedarwood

WHOA BABY!! I love the snappy green opening, so fresh and buoyant, all sparkly green galbanum and citrus. There is a wet feel to CHANEL 19 opening, like there is dew on the world that you’re smelling, or maybe those lovely flowers have been washed before becoming a bouquet. As the bouquet takes over, slowly it eclipses the citrus but the green freshness stays right into the heart. So many people use CHANEL 19 as their back straightener fragrance, and I understand why they feel like that. It certainly has a very stiff upper lipness about it to begin that reflect the cool and aloof that we all sometimes strive for.

Chanel No. 19 Chanel Canon FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Though the opening is magic and the heart softly beautiful it is the base of 19 that I love the most, sadly it doesn’t last long enough on my skin but I do get a couple of hours with the lovely warm, sexy, sensual floral woods that still maintain a very discreet nod to the green open, like the job is done and the hair has been let down. CHANEL 19 becomes less restrained, more open and engaging, like SJP as Meredith Morton in The Family Stone as she unwinds in the bar with her fiances brother. Often when I wear CHANEL 19 I catch myself smiling in remembrance of the film and its now associated fall from uptight. It was never an Oscar winner but it’s one of my favourite go-to films, here’s a peek.

Further reading:
Beauty Encounter has a terrific selection starting at $12/4ml mini
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

I bought my Vintage CHANEL 19 EdC at Odona on Etsy and they always have an excellent selection.

Chanel No. 19 by Chanel Beauty EncounterPhoto Stolen Beauty Encounter

Are you a CHANEL 19 fan? Where do you prefer to wear it? Does it give you a straight back?
See you tomorrow,
Portia x