Linden: An Ode to Linden in Fragrance

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Post by ElizaD

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An Ode to Linden

Not rose, not lilac, not peony, not gardenia, not jasmine, not lavender, not lily, not carnation, not geranium, not mimosa, not freesia, sets my heart a leaping like linden. And many thanks to that wise city planner who years ago planted them along streets and in parks in the town where I live.

Linden Blossom Lime_tree Tilia WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

As the days start to grow long and the earth warms, the lindens blossom. The air is magical. As the wind moves, and the sun filters through the leaves, the trees seem to sparkle in their greenness. I could sit under a linden tree for hours watching bees work each tiny burst of cream-colored flower.

Perhaps it is because I love the real fragrance so much that I have been disappointed by the two linden-based scents I have tried. Fragrantica indicates there are many more to sample, but I am afraid each will let me down.

Linden Blond Tabac Voluspa FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Linden Blond Tabac by Voluspa

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Blond tabac absolute, lime (linden) blossom, tuberose, red grapefruit, woodsy notes, tonka bean

In my collection is a full bottle of Voluspa Linden Blond Tabac. It’s a lovely perfume on its own, sweetness mellowed by tobacco, but it doesn’t smell like linden to me.

Linden. Tilleul D`Orsay FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Tilleul (Lime or Linden) by D’Orsay

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon blossom, watermelon
Heart: Cyclamen, linden blossom
Base: Acacia tree, bee wax, hay

Tilleul by D’Orsay comes closer, and though it is purported to have a top, heart and base it’s very linear, warming to my skin as I wear it. It has decent sillage and good longevity, and if someone were to gift me with more, I would happily accept. Because now my brain recognizes the smell as the perfume Tilleul, and Tilleul is supposed to be linden, and linden makes me happy.

But I want to open a vial without knowing what I will smell inside, a blind test if you will, and find myself transported onto the grass under a linden. To be wrenched off my forward path to go in search of the tree that emanates such a lovely smell, as I do often when I am riding around town—I think I know each tree within a 2 mile radius of my home.

Is that too much to ask? Does such a thing exist? If you know, pray tell. It’s summer here now, and while the shade of a linden offers a cool respite, and the gorgeous heart shaped leaves still sparkle, the fragrance is just a memory.

Fragrantica has a wonderful article on The history of the Linden

And here is another way one might Experience the “intoxication” of linden flowers

So now it’s up to you. Do you have a favourite Linden Fragrance that I need to try, one that you love particularly or do you have memories of Linden trees too?
ElizaD x

(Ed: Dear ElizaD, you just taught me that Linden Blossoms are not from the citrus fruit bearing plant but a totally different species. I am the complete dumb ass. Ha Ha Ha Laughing. Thank You.)

Tilleul by Olivia Giacobetti for D`Orsay 2008

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Hiding in the back of my perfume shelf I found a fragrance I haven’t worn for years. TILLEUL D’Orsay. I’d forgotton how lovely it was. I originally bought it as it reminded me of honeysuckle, fresh freesias and lily of the valley combined, but in a way smelt far more natural and less sickly-toilet-sprayish than a fragrance with these ingredients would usually smell. (I find frags of these flowers often smell cheap and nasty)

On revisiting it I now realize its got plenty more to it and is put together incredibly well.

Tilleul by Olivia Giacobetti for D`Orsay 2008

Tilleul D`Orsay FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon blossom, angelica, watermelon
Heart: Cyclamen, linden blossom
Base: Acacia tree, bee wax, hay, black locust

Tilleul by D`Orsay is light and sparkles with a waxy floral, citrus-like, smell, especially straight from the bottle. Tileul is Linden blossom, mixed up with lemon blossom. It is fresh, pretty and bright. Summery to me.

Once sprayed, there’s gusts of watermelon, maybe slightly green, which surprisingly I am liking, considering I’m not a big one for fruity fragrances. The waxy undertones seem to be beeswax and I think this makes the whole combo tolerable, and not too sweet for me. The dryness, touching on powdery, could be hay , or grasses. I am still reminded of honeysuckle, but it’s almost like that smell has been re-constructed with the use of other flowers/ingredients, rather than containing any actual honeysuckle.

Tilleul by D`Orsay honeysuckle WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The other factor leading me away from thinking it’s honeysuckle is a floral, citrus green note. A muguet? Perhaps not lily of the valley, or freesia as first thought, but cyclamen, a flower I consider to be quite underated. So often the pots sit flowering in peoples homes and no one stoops to smell them. Such a pretty scent, but so so faint, usually. Not here. Here it is amplified and enhanced by its co-ingredients.

If you like mimosa/acacia/floral green fragrances like L’Occitane Eau d’azur – this will be a hit for you – but far more natural and not as heavy on synthetics like calone, which gives me a nasty headache. This is a well balanced scent.

Tilleul by D`Orsay was first created in 1915, so there is definitely a beautiful vintage feel to the scent, and combination of ingredients is very “of that era”. Very French. In 2008 it was reformulated by Olivia Giacobetti, which might be why also I am getting a good whiff of freesia perhaps, as she was the nose behind Ofresia for Diptyche. (which is also very nice, but VERY VERY SWEET…and seems to get sweeter in the bottle over time). I love so many of her mixes, and seem to building a little collection/shrine to her over time.

Tilleul D`Orsay The_Quarrel_of_Oberon_and_Titania WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

It’s a fresh green floral. It’s summer. Tilleul by D`Orsay is green watermelon!!!! Too much would be a bit sickly for me, but today- a hot 32 degrees in Byron Bay, a light spritz and I am off to the beach DEFINITELY smelling better than those in my way!! (someone should open a perfume shop up here!!)

Further reading: Confessions Of A Perfume Nerd and Now Smell This
Parfum1 has $75/50ml
The Posh Peasant starts at $3.50/ml

have you revisited the back of your cupboard lately- found anything you like?? Tell me more!!

Ainslie Walker