Ernest Daltroff

Cookie Queen’s Adventure Photo Essay

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 31 Comments

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Hello all you APJ Perfumistas and Bikers!

Each year my husband attends the Eurobike International Trade Show in Friedrichshafen, Germany. It´s freaking enormous, supposedly
the biggest bike show in the world. He needs two days to get around it. Journalists, superstars from the downhilling world to The Tour de France,
plus the industry visitors make up the some 45,000 in attendance on the trade days, along with an extra 20,000 bike fans on the public day.

 

Friedrichshafen is on Lake Constance, also known as the Bodensee. The lake is situated in Germany, Switzerland and Austria. I decided
to grab a ride to Friedrichshafen with Chris then hop on a bus to Zürich, meet Vero for lunch, and hop on a bus back again. Why not? Life is too short
to sit still.

Cookie Queen’s Adventure

Bikes, Ferries and Caron Perfume
A lunch date at the Hammam in Zürich with Vero Kern
A Photo Essay

I got up at 03:15 and opened the fridge door for a drink. A large glass of what had been Oma`s frozen cream of pumpkin soup fell out of the door and
smashed on the kitchen floor. By 03.30 I was vacuuming up the last bits of glass and the cat thought I had lost my mind. We were out the door by
04.30 and on our 350 km way. I got out in Friedrichshafen and an hour later was on the bus. By 13:30 I was in Zürich with Vero and by 16:00 I was heading back to Friedrichshafen. Anyway – here´s some piccies.

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #2On the ferry crossing from Friedrichshafen to Konstanz. 15 minutes. Absolutely gorgeous.

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #1Frierichshafen. Home to the Zeppelin.

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #4

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #12

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #3Isi, Vero’s superstar dog meeting me at the central station in Zürich.

 

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #7

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #5

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #6

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #8

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #9Lunch at the Hammam Basar. Fantastic salad followed by thick Turkish coffee fragrant with cardomom.

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #11Ferry back from Konstanz to Friedrichshafen. Stunning.

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #13Evening with Chris. (Ice cream makes nice pictures but I don’t like ice cream, I really don’t.)

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #14Next day. Heading to the bike show. Cookies for our dealers. SOTD was vintage Caron En Avion Extrait by Ernest Daltroff: featuring carnation, jasmine, neroli and opoponax. A gift from Vero. Thick dark deep orange, spicy, lush and leathery, What a joy.

 

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #15

Bike Desires. Me looking at the new Rotwild Electric bike. €7000. Do not let anyone tell you electric bikes are for old people. And the below shot is a 12 speed SRAM Eagle cassette. ( for the biking perfumistas amongst us 😀)

Cookie Queen's Adventure Sept 2016 #16

Fragrant Biking Bussis
CQ

N’Aimez Que Moi by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1916

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Post by Willa Zheng

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Hi reader,

“Love no one but me” from the venerable but nowadays much overlooked House of Caron is, in my humble opinion, one of the great romantic perfumes of 20th century. Launched during the height of WW1, it also happens to celebrate its 100 year anniversary this year.

N’Aimez Que Moi by Caron 1916

N’Aimez Que Moi by Ernest Daltroff

N`Aimez Que Moi Caron FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lilac, violet, rose
Heart: Iris, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood
Base: Vanilla, amber, musk, oakmoss

Fittingly for a perfume that sounds like an Edith Piaf love song, N`Aimez Que Moi opens like an old skool rose fragrance – geraniumy and drenched in clove-like eugenols that IFRA could banish this juice at any moment. My 22 year old, Miu Miu wearing work colleague says it smells just like her grandma. Well darling, your grandma has excellent taste.

Five minutes in, powdery, cosmetic-like notes such as violets and lilac emerge to join in the waltz with garden roses. Ever prised open the lid of Caron’s famous loose face powders? This is its fragrance!

Ten minutes later, woody chypre base notes creep in to give the fragrance a bit depth and some character. The main experience of wearing N’Aimez Que Moi conveys a big, radiant rose fragrance sitting on a dry layer of sandalwood. Emotionally, it’s the olfactory equivalent of an operatic Aria. The wearer of N’Aimez Que Moi is beautiful, assertive and yet lamentful.

The drydown of N’Aimez Que Moi, which emerges after about 4 hours, is a classic vintage chypre-base comprised of amber, musk and oakmoss, not dissimilar to the base of vintage Arpege. It creates a heavy, dark, rounded base that is a nuanced melange of the sweet, the skanky and the dirty.

My N`Aimez Que Moi edp (vintage 2007) has moderate to heavy silage, depending on the body heat of the wearer. Like an olfactory forget-me-not, this edp sustains itself for an impressive 12hrs +.

Further reading:
LuckyScent has $100/7ml extrait
Surrender To Chance has extrait samples from $5/0.5ml

Do you have a favourite Caron?

Narcisse Noir by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1911

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Vintage Vamps,

A while back I stumbled across someone’s Sale Document in Facebook Fragrance Friends and on the list were some lovely fragrances that I really wanted to try in their vintage form. One in particular was the last couple of ml of a Caron scent that was, and still is, based around one of my favourite notes Narcissus, it is Narcisse Noir…

Narcisse Noir by Caron 1911

Narcisse Noir by Ernest Daltroff

Narcisse Noir Caron FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: African orange flower, narcissus
Heart: Jasmine, orange, tincture of rose
Base: Vetyver, musk, sandalwood

Narcisse Noir opens with a lovely soapy orange blossom curled around narcissus. Not the potent feral narcissus of the absolue, here it is softened and sweetened, draped elegantly over lashings of musks and sweet smooth and creamy sandalwood. This is OLD! because I can smell real animal musk. Yes there are some sweet flowers in the heart but they seem to be only ornaments to the narcissus, sandalwood and musk.

Normally I wear Narcisse Noir and just let myself float freely on a cloud of its loveliness. It’s weird trying to parse notes of something that I have had so much enjoyment out of as a whole and finished creation.

Narcisse Noir Ryan Somma Jonquilla Daffodil FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The heart gives me a hint of indolic skank but nothing that would upset the vicar (sadly) and orange does make an appearance, it’s a juicy and pithy orange quite rounded and I had never noticed it before today’s wear. Narcisse Noir is much more multifaceted that I ever thought, light, shade and nuance that wearing as a fragrance just doesn’t show. Even a fruity rose rears its head, not a loud one but when I look for it after reading a note list it’s there.

Basically the fragrance then takes hours to dry down. Instead of making great changes it smooths and creams its way to a hum that just shimmers above my skin making me smell divinely better than I really do.

Narcisse Noir red-roses Hans PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This and Yesterday’s Perfume
Galaxy Perfumes has EdT $85/50ml (the only bottle I could find online not on eBay or Amazon)
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3/ml

Did you ever spend time with Narcisse Noir? Will you miss it when it’s gone?
Portia xx

 

Bellodgia by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1927

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

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Post by Portia

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Hey there APJ,

Lately we have been unpacking boxes and I’ve bought some new plastic decant cases to house my ridiculous collection in. Jin found them for me at Bunnings (our hardware hangars) and they’re meant for tradesmen to put their bits & pieces in for easy access.

Tactix 8 Compartment Storage Box BunningsPhoto Stolen Bunnings

Portia's Decant Case

Well, now my decants are easy access. Yes this is only the first of two. Yes I will need a smaller one also for all my 2-3ml decants, anyway…..

While doing the reorganising I found a couple of my old loves that have been packed for over a year….

Bellodgia by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1927

Bellodgia FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Carnation, rose
Heart: Jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, violet
Base: Musk, clove, vanilla, sandalwood

Tonight I had a bath with a couple of drops of my original Bellodgia Bath Oil. You have no idea how lavish it feels to be submerged in a bath and to smell only the sweet, crisp, warmth of Bellodgia wrapped around you like a cashmere shawl. Quite overwhelming and it sent me off to fairy land. As you can see in the pic below I am very sparing and have only used a small amount of my 15ml, one drop in the bath is enough.

Bellodgia Caron Bath Oil

Bellodgia has been reformulated many times and I did try the new one in the square bottle recently. It’s very nice but has lost quite a bit of what I feel makes Bellodgia so special. If you’ve never tried the old you will still think it very lovely and so do I if I think of them as separate entities.

I love the opening, so rich with promise and pungent. The crisp minty/clove/carnation/rose crackle cutting through the hearts floral vanilla bouquet and to a rich warmly spiced dreamscape of woodsy vanilla at the end. The lasting power is extraordinary and one hefty vint-ish EdT spritz over my already lightly scented skin and a couple of vintage parfum dabs are all I need to sail through an evening and into morning smelling ferociously good.

Caron-Bellodgia-Eau-De-Toilette EssentialMallPhoto Stolen EssentialMall

If you want to read a full appraisal please go check my earlier Bellodgia post on APJ, it gives a much fuller account of the ride but tonight I really want to enjoy the gorgeous full Bellodgia experience without taking it apart and stealing a little bit of the magic. Tonight is all about the ride that Ernest Daltroff created for us to take. I’m going right now…

Further reading BoisDeJasmin and Olfactoria’sTravels
EssentialMall has the purple leather encased 30ml EdT for $51
SurrenderToChance has a selection of Bellodgia samples

How is your decant and sample collection housed? Don’t you just love my plastic packers?
Portia xx

Royal Bain De Caron EdT by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1941

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Hello Frag Hags,

I love a fragrancce that comes with a could-be-true story. It’s a great ice breaker, predisposes me to want to like the frag and lets me know some reasons why it may smell like it does. Anybody not frag obsessed, or a Perfume Bore as my BFF calls me when I get started, will think that I’m mental but it does give perspective and added interest, for me anyway. Just so you know I am reviewing a modern iteration 125ml EdT that cost me less than some 3ml decants I’ve bought recently.

Royal Bain de Caron by Caron 1941

RoyalBainDeCaron FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lilac, rose
Heart: Opoponax, benzoin, incense
Base: Sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla, cedar

This post was inspired by BoisDeJasmin: Simple Summer Pleasures: Cologne Bath. I was so impressed by the idea of putting a couple of tablespoons of cologne into the bath and remembered reading about how this was designed for some millionaire, at a time when that meant something, who wanted his bath to smell like the champagne (Champagne was the original name but the word became unusable)  he had been bathing in. So it was an easy match, even though Royal Bain de Caron is an EdT it doesn’t matter. Remember, when I read this in the Northern Hemisphere it was summer but down here in Oz we were in the grip of winter and I wanted something not quite so fresh and light for my bath.

Royal Bain de Caron opens with a sparkling, warm, boozy richness that is more like cognac than champagne but it’s probably a hark back to the days of champagne being super dooper sweet. The vanilla, amber and sandalwood all give a spectacular overture which then leads to a very sweet amber-ish floral bouquet that merely hints at the lilac and rose in the notes list because all the resins completely engulf the florals on my skin. Almost linear after the first rush and decidedly unisex, it smells darker, richer and spicier on TSO Jin than it does me. If I spritz myself after the bath with a decanted atomiser of Royal Bain de Caron the fragrance life is around 5-7 hours depending on the day and remains warm and inviting to the very end.

A great statement fragrance, warm and sparkling. I think too fragrant for office work and definitely way too in your face for perfume-phobic workplaces, still it would not be overly intrusive for recreational closeness like theatre, cinema or dinner.

TheBath AlfredStevens Art.comTheBath by AlfredStevens Stolen Art.com

Further reading EauMG and PerfumeSmellingThings
FragranceNet has 125ml/$28 BARGAIN!!
ThePerfumedCourt starts at $3/ml

Do you like to be completely and utterly decadent sometimes? What is your favourite way to feel ridiculously luxe on a budget?

Hopefully the world is giving you lemonade.
Till tomorrow,
Portia xx