When over spraying is Scandalous – A lesson in the subtle art of applying perfume

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Kate Apted

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A hearty good evening to you all from balmy Melbourne. Well, it is for now; tomorrow might be another thing.

For months, I have been making my way through a 200ml bottle of Scandal shower gel by the one and only Jean Paul Gaultier. A quick spray on a card when it was first released confirmed it isn’t my style. I found it sweet, waxy and all too flighty. There was a Pentavite* vitamin drops note to it that annoyed the hell out of me. I happened upon the shower gel at an absolute steal, though, and gave it a chance.

After my first use of the gel, I found a lingering note of bees’ wax. A thick, rich, almost honeyed milk type of note. I had washed my hair with the gel too and adored the gentle warmth of the bees’ wax that emanated from me all day. It has been a good ten uses later and I find myself craving the enveloping depth of the wax. I have made a truce with the Pentavite vitamin note, strangely. It also heralds the end of my bottle of gel.

Rather than try to track down an inflated priced replacement, it made financial sense to source a bottle of the EDP. So, I did.

Scandal by Daphne Bugey, Fabrice Pellegrin and Christophe Raynaud for Jean Paul Gaultier (2017)

Scandal

Fragrantica – Fragrantica lists the following notes: honey, patchouli, bees’ wax, blood orange, gardenia, caramel, licorice, orange blossom, peach, jasmine, mandarin orange.

 

My fatal mistake was to over spray myself. Just don’t. Take it from me, Scandal smells infinitely better with one, maybe two, sprays on the decolletage. I applied my usual 7 sprays and moaned for the rest of the evening that I could smell NOTHING! A very vague sweetness with a ghost of an orange blossom or something. No trace of the dense wax at all! Not even Pentavite. Then, last Thursday night, I absent mindedly applied one quick spritz on my chest and continued on with the clothes washing. Miraculously, an hour later, it registered in my brain that the wax was there in all its abundant glory.

I tried two sprays after showering with the last of my gel Saturday morning. All I could sense until lunch time was the golden elixir of bees’ wax.

So, the very simple moral of my story is to be judicious in how one applies perfume. Something that may have not appealed in the past, or didn’t release a particular note may have just been applied in a manner not intended. It may take a bit of playing around with some perfumes to bring their best sides out. Much like relating to people, I suppose. Our relationship to our perfumes are never really fixed and much can be discovered by exploring the myriad of ways we might wear it. Trying different formats helps to familiarise one’s self to a new scent, or even find new facets to an over looked cheapie.

Have you ever discovered you were wearing a scent wrong? Or have you used a scent you dislike in perfume form, only to enjoy it in another format?

Be safe, APJ family, in this busy time of year.

Kate xx

*Pentavite vitamin drops were commonly used with tins of Carnation evaporated milk to feed babies in the early 1970s in Australia. Particularly if the mother could not breastfeed her child.

Au Bord de L’eau by Fabrice Pellegrin for L`Artisan Perfumer 2017

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Portia

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Hi there Punsters,

Just so you know Au Bord de L’eau means “At the water’s edge”. It’s not a joke on the way it sounds when I say it, A Bordello. Or is it? That is the top of my mind now that I’ve seen the name written as a heading on my WordPress editing board. Yep, I am an 11 year old boy hiding in a 49 year old drag queens body.

It’s been interesting to see the new directions L’Artisan has forged since the Puig buyout. While not totally sold on the kooky animal head lid set I do love a couple of the new Natura Fabularis privée line, 32 Venenum and 9 Arcana Rosa. Haven’t smelled them all yet but those two were very nice.

Au Bord de L’eau by L`Artisan Perfumer 2017

Au Bord de L’eau by Fabrice Pellegrin

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Bergamot, lemon, violet, musk, orange blossom, rosemary

Sharp citrus opens, it’s tart and lip puckering at first then mellows quickly into a sweet and fizzy version of itself. Orange blossom and musk keep the journey into the heart of the fragrance smooth. Refreshing, without all the modern wet or cucumber tropes. The orange blossom is only ever so slightly breathy, mainly it is clean and suede-ishly plush. There is something of a summer storm about Au Bord de L’eau, all bright and light and then a cooling, breath of wind rushing ahead of the clouds. The fragrance cools just a little.

Au Bord de L'eau L`Artisan Parfumeur Vincent_van_Gogh_-_Landscape_from_Saint-Rémy WikiMediaWikiMedia

A green herbaceousness creeps in and makes everything interesting. It could well be rosemary but it has no rosemary smell as I know it. Certainly doesn’t speak to me of the bush or on potatoes and lamb, honestly I would be more inclined to call it a smooth basil scent but that could easily be the way everything, especially the iris, has been placed around it. No matter what it is I think you’ll find Au Bord de L’eau a very easy wear, spritz and respritz summer fave that will take you from board room to dinner date comfortably.

Au Bord de L'eau L`Artisan Parfumeur Rosemary WikiMediaWikiMedia

For a cologne style the longevity is quite good and on clothes it is tenacious.

Just to be clear, Au Bord de L’eau doesn’t smell like A Bordello at all.

Further reading: Colognoisseur and Love To Smell
Sweet Fern has $189/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3.89/ml

Are you excited by the new things Puig is doing with the L’Artisan range?
Portia xx

L’Insoumis by Lalique GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Portia

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Hey there Fumies,

Thank you so much to Kate at Sweet Fern for being so generous. Go check out their stock. Great range.

 

L’Insoumis by Lalique GIVEAWAY WINNERS

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 5 winners who will receive:
1 x 2ml spray L’Insoumis by Lalique Manufacturers Carded Sample
P&H Anywhere in the world

 

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 1st October 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winners were chosen by random.org

Neva

Gina

Fazal

Greg

Bradley P Woolslayer

The winners will have till Sunday 8th October 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

L’Insoumis by Fabrice Pellegrin for Lalique 2016 + GIVEAWAY

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Portia

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Hi there FUMIES,

Sweet Fern has given us some beautiful Lalique samples to give you. While TinaG was over the other day we decided to both wear this beauty and were totally surprised at how different it smelled on us. It was a really interesting experiment.

L’Insoumis by Lalique 2016

L’Insoumis by Fabrice Pellegrin

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Basil, Bergamot, Rum
Heart: Clary sage, Lavender, Black pepper
Base: Patchouli, Haitian vetiver, Moss, Clearwood™

Citrus but burnt off really quickly, pine, lavender and a creamy patchouli giving the impression of orange blossom.

Historically hyper-masculine – a rich gym locker room. Can imagine 35+ men in suits on the train and in offices smelling like this – clean shaven, fresh cut, Armani suit. Not much different to the same style of masculine colognes of the 80’s. Its not breaking down any new barriers – a sensible, simple masculine fragrance fully wearable by both sexes. Perhaps a bit old school for a perfumista, but in the right environment a perfect fit.

On Tina, it is a lot sharper and more herbal, and on me it’s a lot sweeter and creamier and much more like a historic scent.  On both of us, it smells really good.

Sweet Fern has $175/100ml

L’Insoumis by Lalique GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 5 winners who will receive:
1 x 2ml spray L’Insoumis by Lalique Manufacturers Carded Sample
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us where you would wear this beauty.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 1st October 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Sunday 8th October 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Essences Insensees Rose De Mai by Fabrice Pellegrin for Diptyque 2016

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Portia

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Hey there Rose lovers,

There’s been a LOT of rose chatter on the blogs for February is now the month of roses. Chemist In A Bottle, Undina’s Looking Glass and others are doing roses, roses, roses. The guys at LuckyScent do samples and this rose fragrance arrived recently so I thought I could do a one wear share of how it was. That’s right, the whole 0.7ml decanted and spritzed in one go.

Essences Insensees Rose De Mai by Diptyque 2016

Essences Insensees Rose De Mai by Fabrice Pellegrin

Parfumo

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Rose essence, Rosa centifolia absolute, Rose oil, Red fruits, Honey

HA! Roses. Burying your head in a sweet, fruity garden rose. If roses straight up are your thing then this would be a great addition to your collection.

You know the feeling in the back of your throat when you have been sucking honey straight off your spoon? Add that to a slightly dry, tea-ish, sweet rose. The berries aren’t fresh, they’re glacé and sticky. The honey comes front and centre through the heart and it creates an animalic overlay that is quite wild. Happily ferocious honey drizzled roses. Bloody good stuff. The price is super good too.

I can imagine this glorious rose/honey combo becoming a signature scent and for those that have one display bottle at a time this is so fabulous. I bet it feels amazing in your hand too.

Wikipedia

From LuckyScent: For 2016, Fabrice Pellegrin chose perhaps Grasse’s most iconic flower, the soft, sensual and spirited Rose de Mai. And what an interpretation it is: Essences Insensees seems to positively sweep us into the springtime meadows of southeastern France, to sunstruck bucolic countrysides where men and women in straw hats weave through fields awash in stunning pink flowers, selecting the lushest and freshest among them for the honor of undergoing the intricate steam distillation that will help them live forever.

Essences Insensees Rose De Mai by Diptyque Pierre-Auguste_Renoir WikiCommonsWikiCommons

Further reading: Colognoisseur
LuckyScent has $180/120ml & Samples

I know some of you love your roses. Are you wearing them for rose month? Which ones?
Portia xx

I Love My Man by Fabrice Pellegrin for Dear Rose 2014

Hiya Crew,

I am really liking the Dear Rose fragrance house. They are doing mainstream fragrances in luxurious ways. They are not incredibly ground breaking but they do smell a cut above a lot of the current mainstream offerings and I think they will be appealing to a section of the community who is sick of the sweet stuff aimed at teens but who aren’t ready to go heavy duty old school or super niche either. I reckon they are happy to smell nice and have a cool looking bottle of something reasonably expensive that is just a little harder to find than CHANEL or Guerlain.

I Love My Man by Dear Rose 2014

I Love My Man by Fabrice Pellegrin

I Love My Man Dear Rose FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bulgarian rose, centiflora rose, carnation, sandalwood, tonka bean

In my opinion one of the WORST names for a fragrance ever, what rubbish! How freaking embarrassing if someone asks you what scent you have on today. Gack! I would never wear this outside the house just in case.

I Love My Man opens so much better than I expected. A lovely, lively, jam-sweet rose that feels both fully, strongly present and ethereal like mist. The tonka bean has a softly breathy, fleshy warmth warmth to it and the whole seems to be drizzled lavishly over a huge wallop of musks (it could easily be something else but it feels like musks). I can’t think of a fragrance that does this exactly the same way. It’s a beautiful mixture that I find utterly smooth and captivating.

i-love-my-man-dear-rose Lautrec WikimediaPhoto stolen WikiCommons

It’s a lipstick rose, a makeup box, waxy and powdery and so devilishly lavish that you may find yourself stuck like glue to the parts of yourself that you’ve spritzed. Probably best not to do the backs of your knees then, keep body parts accessible unless you are a contortionist. It’s so like the scent of doing my make up but yet really only a nod to it because I Love My Man has this lovely sweetness that takes it beyond maquillage and into some completely other realm.

I could really imagine I Love My Man becoming a bunch of peoples signature scent for a while. It’s classy and classic but still manages to feel bang up to date, clean, fresh and glam. This is a really fun rose that I think the men with the balls to wear it will smell freaking amazing in it, if only it was called something else.

i-love-my-man-dear-rose Eye sallina13 PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy
Libertine Parfumerie has $210/100ml with FREE Delivery in Australia
First In Fragrance has €125/100ml

Do you ever wish for something perfectly constructed sheer and enveloping? Would you forgive the name and wear it anyway?
Portia xx

La Favorite by Fabrice Pellegrin for Dear Rose 2014

Hey there APJ Crew,

La Favorite is one of six fragrances releases in 2014 by new fragrance house Dear Rose. The two women who own the company are a mother/daughter team. Chantal, the mother, has worked at the top of the beauty pyramid in Yves Saint Laurent, Issey Mayake and Jean Paul Gaultier and was in control when such blockbusters as Opium, Kouros, Paris, Jazz, L’eau d’Issey and Le Male were brought to life. This is a serious player with a real knowledge of what sells. Alexandra, the daughter, has a history in music. two creatives together making fragrance.

La Favorite Dear Rose Chantal AlexanraPhoto Stolen Dear Rose

La Favorite by Fabrice Pellegrin for Dear Rose 2014

La Favorite Dear Rose FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Pink pepper, saffron, oud, patchouli

I was given a fabulous Dear Rose Press Sample Set by Nick from Libertine Parfumerie a while ago and life has been so freaking hectic that I’m only getting to them now.

La Favorite is a rose oudh with a twinkle of pepper and a little soft smoothness provided by saffron. I’m pretty sure there’s some citrus and geranium up the top too. Not nearly as in your face as the Montale oudhs, not even as hefty as Juliette Has A Gun’s Midnight Oud, here we have a safe oudh, a mainstream offering that will give a lovely thrill of the harem and a reserved nod to the Middle East to those that love the idea but from the distance of a painting, reading about it in a book or sitting in an armchair watching the Discovery Channel.

This is only the mildest medicinal oudh and I think those that have problems with the note could find La Favorite an excellent gateway frag, the spicy, slightly fruity red rose that’s so dark it verges on purple in La Favorite is beautiful though. There is also a lovely hint of cut rose branches, not the stem for flowers but pruning at midwinter. The patchouli down the back is clean and I get a white musk & amber vibe too but that could be my super sweet skin.

Projection is excellent, one spritz on the back of my hand tonight and not even 5 minutes later my BFF Kath walked into my office and said “Oooh, that’s very nice. What is it?”. So you can put La Favorite on the crowd-pleaser list too because every time I wear it (only three times so far) there have been compliments. Though La Favorite is not a BIG fragrance it does change the air around you and I think is probably too noticeable for work but for everything else I say Go For It. It lasts for hours, I can wear it to work and then sleep and still smell remnants in the morning.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and BaseNotes
Libertine Parfumerie has $210/100ml with FREE Australian postage
First In Fragrance has €125/100ml

Have you tried the Dear Rose line yet? Have you been frightened of oudh before? Coulfd this be your gateway frag?
Portia xx

giveaway TheTruthAboutMummyPhoto Stolen TheTruthAboutMummy

La Favorite GIVEAWAY!

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x sample La Favorite by Dear Rose
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please comment with any rose fragrance in your collection and why you love it

Extra Chance?
Tweet:  La Favorite by Dear Rose    

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 19th March 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 26th March 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.