Jersey Parfum by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 2014

July 23, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Hello to my fellow fumeheads!

Today, I am zeroing in on a breathtaking parfum that surprised me when I sniffed it in person. Last year, I wandered into Boston’s Chanel boutique with fragrance friends, eyes sparkling with delight in the luxe venue. I went in with laser focus, intent on purchasing Chanel No. 22 parfum from the Les Exclusifs line. I then went on to sniff the other boutique-exclusive offerings, and was shocked to fall in love with:

CHANEL Jersey parfum Les Exclusifs de Chanel

CHANEL Jersey parfum by Jacques Polge

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Lavender, musk, vanilla, wildflowers, grass, rose, jasmine and tonka bean

Wearing Jersey today, I sense a spark of clean lavender, awash in the white-hot rays of the solstice sun. The meadow rolls over tumbling hills, emeralds and amethysts glistening as far as the eye can see. Freshly laundered sheets billow crisply on a clothesline, as signature Chanel aldehydes pierce the air. The lazy breeze carries these cool, soothing fragrances like a drifting song, the hollow tones of a silver flute choir.

And yet, although my visions glow beneath the brightest sunbeams, Jersey is an evening fragrance for me. It is a scent for a quietly classic night on the town, freshly showered and dolled up in a favorite new dress and a string of pearls. I strongly associate lavender with the cold light of the stars, as I often use it for sleep aromatherapy. However, as it joyfully dances among distinctive aldehydes and a waft of rose petal, this lavender is calm and graceful, not sleepy.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

From CHANEL: Jersey had only been used for sailors’ sweaters and men’s undergarments until, in the 1920’s, Mademoiselle Chanel made it the instrument of a new elegance for women. Like Mademoiselle, Jacques Polge has also revealed the chic and feminine treasures of a material considered to be masculine and modest: lavender. He has chosen an exceptional essence and given it the sensuality of musk and the delicious richness of vanilla. And so it is that lavender has been transfigured and become deliciously sophisticated. Successfully transformed, it has lost its masculine connotations.

Photo Donated Erica

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and A Model Recommends
CHANEL Les Exclusives are available at CHANEL online or larger department stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $8/.25ml

Have you tried any Chanel Exclusifs? Do you have a favorite? Let’s dish!

Scented hugs, Erica

Sarrasins by Christopher Sheldrake + Serge Lutens 2007

July 22, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Liam

Sarrasins: A severe perfume.

There are a lot of noir scents on the market. Or better put, there are a lot of noir flankers on the market. Tom Ford’s Noir, Chanel’s Coco Noir, and Van Cleef and Arpels’ Cologne Noire to name a few fumes.

The word noir, whether it’s used to mod a title or used as a title on its own really fascinates me.

On one hand, noir and nuit go hand-in-hand and evoke feelings of a cool and steely midnight in winter. On another, noir seems to be a term impetuously placed on labels as it suggests a darkened fragrance that is largely more severe.

Unfortunately, this is not the usual case. Coco Noir is described as a ‘nocturnal baroque scent’ … with grapefruit?! No no no. That’s not noir. That’s a flirtatious teen girl late at night.

Sarrasins by Serge Lutens 2007

Sarrasins by Christopher Sheldrake + Serge Lutens

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Blossoms
Heart: Carnation, jasmine
Base: Musk

Sarrasins is noir. True noir. Sarrasins wraps me in its beauty and then strangles me gently. A metallic note opens floating ephemerally at the top of the overdosing of rich moreish jasmine. I suspect a drop of aldehydes lifts the fragrance and adds some initial space in the beginning, as the narcotic flower begins to bloom on the skin. This effect, a floral dipped in a touch of something artificial, reminds me of Serge Luten’s masterful Tuberuse Criminelle where a scene plays out on the skin as a murder occurs in a room full of tuberose flowers. This almost bloody accord is further tweaked with something undeniably clean – a Luten’s style musk note; camphoraceous and cool.

From here, the jasmine reveals itself emerging like a spike from the skin. It poses danger but never cuts as it is placated with its innate white floral creaminess. Thus its sweet and indolic moments are to be expected and these are spiced with a carnation note that recalls many early vintage scents I have smelled before. Despite the linear nature of the scent, the jasmine note pulls itself down into darker regions. It sways between dead and alive like flowers limply wilting and wrinkling like old leather.

‘Warm’ is best used to describe this stage, underscored with a majestic leatheriness and animalics as the jasmine showcases its green facet – here we find resolution between two clashes that learn to exist together in harmony. The sweetness now comes off as fruity and herbal, yet it appears to forever colour itself nostalgically purple and melancholically grey with its impossibly dusty undertones.

So, a noir scent like Sarrasins recalls something tender, tragic and emotionally palpable. Longing but not obtainable. It’s everything you expect from the Serge Lutens’ aesthetic and the noir labelling, a style of fragrance possessed only by truly the most exhaled scents. Anyway, evil is not a bad descriptor at all…

Photo Stolen Pixabay

In terms of longevity and sillage, Sarrasins trails me like a spectre. Close, intimate, and radiating energy and a cold stately mood. Moderate.

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Smelly Thoughts
Serge Lutens can be purchased at Serge Lutens online or in most larger department stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

So! What do you think a true noir perfume is?

-Liam (turning 18 soon – how should I spoil myself?)

Borsch, Vodka and Tears: Melbourne

July 21, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 19 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

I had an extraordinary unplanned evening on Chapel Street, Melbourne. My favorite kind of experience, where I get to learn something fascinating, enjoy a new experience and have all my senses dazzled. I was drawn in to a doorway marked by an intriguing logo painted on a shop window: “Borsch, Vodka and Tears” a few steps and I was suddenly out of the cold and in cozy Eastern Europe!

Borsch, Vodka and Tears: Melbourne

A romantic bohemian style bar and restaurant, inspired by the cellar bars of Krakow. It represents a bygone world, specialising in Polish vodka, absinthe, Eastern European beers and Polish meals. It is a perfect place for a date.

I arrived late and eyed off the wall of vodkas on display. The owners have spent years sourcing the most unusual, historic and rare bottles exclusively importing from Poland. My interest was spiked on realizing the bottles were hand made and painted in Poland too -gorgeously bespoke…very much the same way our favourite niche fragrances reside. One bottle even had a bubble inside with a rose inside! Even the historical stories of the brands reminded me of some of the older niche fragrances houses. I had found a magical sparkling vodka apothecary!

I decided on a vodka tasting session. I was asked about my favorite drinks, smells and flavours and I handed myself over for 3 of the barman’s recommendations -very much like perfume shopping. At this point he put down on the bar, three of the cutest tiny hand cut crystal shot glasses. I will admit I wanted to steal them – of course I didn’t though!!

He then filled them with different coloured liquids – vodka! They could have been made from anything! From potato or grain, tinctures or infusions of fruit, herbs or spices and aged in woods like oak. The idea he had was to test me, as by now he knew I had an interest in guessing notes.

Here are the highlights:

1. Piasecki Miodówka Leśna – Forest like and herbal, juniper and pine needle notes. A touch of something a little more resinous and balsamic, maybe honey. If it were perfume think Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur – Granville with its pine, citrus, pepper and herbal gorse notes rounded by sandalwoods and even some elements of Gucci by Gucci Sport – cypress, juniper and a touch of musky ambrette seed

2. Ja-GoPrzepalanka – All natural organic artisanal vodka featuring burnt sweet caramel notes, like the top of a crème brulee but with the alcohol strength being enough to really warm the throat. Smooth and deliciously addictive!

3. Miodula Prezydencka Lezakowana was the highlight for me I tasted smoked beeswax predominantly, along with the taste of wild honey, smoked pine needles and oak wood. Only 4000 bottles are made a year, all filled by hand, with 500 reserved as diplomatic gifts for Poland’s president. Bottles are all hand numbered with batch information also handwritten. The recipe is from 1772. I need a full bottle of this exclusive juice!!!!

Next visit I want to try Soplica Staropolska the menu says: Honey, Walnut, Clove With Jasmine And Lilac Notes. Aged In Oak Then Bottled In Hand Painted Decanters.
How does that not sound like a must try perfume to you? How do you like your vodka?

Ainslie Walker x

ETERNITY NOW Calvin Klein: New Ad

July 17, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom

Hey hey Crew,

When I was a younger person Calvin Klein always had a great diffusion line of clothes. I would often choose a Calvin Klein T-Shirt, jumper or belt and his frags were what my friends wore. I loved to smell them and really liked the advertising etc but never did I think I wanted to wear the Calvin Klein fragrant dream. To be honest a part of me was a little sneery at their oh-so-mainstream tastes. It’s only now, when everyone has moved on from the scents that I am finding my way to wearing them. NOW I really like a whole bunch and they bring back fabulous fragrant memories of friends long gone, and some still in my circle who don’t smell like this anymore.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Here is a NEW Eternity flanker

Eternity Now For Women by Calvin Klein 2015

Eternity Now For Women by Ann Gottlieb

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Litchi, quince sorbet
Heart: Peony, peach blossom, neroli petals
Base: Cashmere, ambrox, musk

I hope you enjoy the ad, which uses one of my favourite songs from Aussie band INXS.
Portia xx

ETERNITY NOW Calvin Klein

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

July 16, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Post by Poodle

I love listening to the rain on a summer night. I love the morning after even more. I often step outside in the morning and just take a few deep breaths. In those early moments I feel as though I can smell all of nature. The sun begins to peek through the clouds, everything is still wet, and the summer warmth amplifies all the aromas. I can smell all the lush green leaves. The loamy wet soil smells fresh and new. There’s a damp, mossy smell but it’s like the rain has washed away that mustiness that you sometimes smell on hot, humid days. Instead the air is sweet and fresh. I can smell flowers but the rain has almost blurred their scents. As the sun rises higher things begin to warm and dry. Slowly the aroma of warming woods and earth pushes through the fresh green of the morning. I decide it’s time to step away from the quiet beauty of the morning and get started with my day.

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, wild sweet orange
Heart: Peach, citronellol, nutmeg
Base: Oakmoss, flouvre absolute, coumarin, antique civet

That’s what I thought of when I smelled Bergamoss for the first time.

Bergamoss is the latest release from Mandy Aftel. I admit when I saw it was a chypre I was worried. Often they leave me smelling like I’ve spent too much time in a damp cellar. Not so with Bergamoss. It’s mossy, lush, bright and green, with just enough warmth and earthiness to keep it interesting. Bergamot and orange give it sparkle. Citronellol from scented geraniums gives the fragrance that herbal yet slightly rosy scent the plants are known for. Nutmeg and civet add depth and keep things from smelling too clean and oakmoss adds that classic chypre complexity.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

Bergamoss is beautifully blended. Yes, you can pick out notes but the overall effect on me is a soft blur of scent. Longevity might be an issue. One would need to reapply through the day I think but this is a solid perfume and one of the joys is in the application. Unlike a spray you choose exactly where to anoint yourself with it. Also, like most fragrances in that format, it’s not something that’s going to project across the room. I would say it’s more of a personal scent. The only people that would smell this on me are those I allow to get “thisclose”.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

Knowing my love of big perfumes I was shocked to find myself happily huffing my wrist not caring that I wasn’t sharing my fragrance with the world. Sometimes you just don’t want to share and just want to be alone with your thoughts. Bergamoss is a scent of quiet beauty. It’s not going to shout to be heard. It has plenty to say but you need to take a quiet moment to listen.

Further reading: Now Smell This and I Scent You A Day
Aftelier has Bergamoss from $6

Do you wear solid perfumes? What’s your favorite perfume for quiet moments?
Poodle xx

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi for Tiziana Terenzi 2013

July 15, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Trésor

There are a few occasions…let’s face it…many occasions where instead of craving restrained grace or meticulously polished oeuvre I want to smell of everything; all the notes, all the flowers, all of them and right now. Every once and a little while I will be perusing the online shops and come across a potion with a labyrinthine list of notes and my heart goes aflutter, my resolve all but disappears and without warning I have a blind bought bottle of some mystery fragrance with a bazillion notes to positively douse myself in upon it’s arrival. My most recent discovery has been a little potion from the Italian house of Tiziana Terenzi that goes by the name of Maremma, otherwise known as the next stop on my journey to unapologetic fragrant hedonism.

Maremma by Tiziana Terenzi 2013

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bitter Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Black Currant, Holm Oak Acorn
Heart: Angelica, Orris Root, Agarwood, Lotus Wood, Cumin, Honey
Base: Patchouli, Cocoa Powder, Sandalwood, Cistus Labdanum, Amber Crystals, Rosewood

The opening sequence of Maremma is a story of luxuriant, utterly unctuous cocoa bathed in the glimmering chartreuse radiance of a rather full-bodied bergamot. The cocoa is sweet, but not deliriously so, pirouetting gracefully as an haute confection rather than weighing the composition down or making it register as exceedingly opaque. The florid, almost banana-like creaminess of ylang ylang along with her intrinsic powderiness infuses the atmosphere, veiling the composition in a scintillating gossamer haze of delicate, flavescent powder. The subtle subversion of agarwood and velvet patchouli lurk beneath, never truly allowing Maremma to reach the point of effervescence, instead working harmoniously to temper a degree of saccharinity which might otherwise seem overwhelming.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Ascending from the murky depth of these two notes is a glorious bouquet of buttery iris and silken jasmine, each releasing their precious aroma in tender undulations; adding yet another fragrant layer to this beguiling brew. The delectable stickiness of blackcurrant jam alongside just a kiss of glistening, aureate honey affords a particular density to the composition; an effortless marriage and flawless synchronicity. As the composition begins to dry down the creaminess observed in the incipience begins to intensify and is joined by delicate tendrils of clean skin musk and a crystalline vision of amber. It is this stage of the fragrance that happens to be my favourite and luckily (for me, at least) it’s the one that lasts the longest. A gentle hologram of palisander and sandalwood flickers in the distance and the ghosts of what came before radiate their blessings down softly down from above. This impeccably cozy aura lasts and lasts (and lasts) until finally it fades into all but nothing.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

When it comes to sillage Maremma’s got it in the bag, it is an extrait de parfum packaged in a spray atomizer so you can just imagine the sort of projection you would get with something like this. It’s not so dramatic that they’ll smell you in the next city over but it’s most certainly not the first thing I would reach for if subtlety were my endgame. The longevity with Maremma is out of this world; I could still detect it on my skin 24 hours after my initial application. That’s pretty freaking phenomenal if you ask me, especially for someone who’s skin eats perfume like it’s breakfast.

Photo Stolen Geograph

I would urge you to give Maremma a go if you’re the sort who is into densely populated fragrances or have affection for things like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid, Van Cleef and Arpel’s Precious Oud or even Dior’s Poison. I think you may just find yourself with a brand new lemming if you do.

Further reading: The Scented Apprentice
LuckyScent has $145/100ml
First In Fragrance has €135/100ml

So, my darlings, what are your favourite everything-but-the-kitchen-sink fragrances?

Until next time,

Trésor xo

Kiki by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo (EdP, VdE, Ex)

July 14, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 32 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Lavender? Free Your Mind.

.vero.profumo.

KIKI Eau de Parfum 2010
KIKI Voile d´Extrait 2013 All by Vero Kern.
KIKI Extrait 2007

A Tale of Two Kikis

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

The first Kiki in my life was Jack’s pet parrot from Enid Blyton´s “Adventure” series. Kiki is a standard feature in each novel providing both comic relief and as a saviour from tight situations. Kiki has an enormous reserve of phrases and strange noises. I loved these books and they remain a part of an England that once was. The illustrations were done by Stuart Tresilian a British artist and illustrator. Along with Blyton´s Adventure Series he also illustrated Rudyard Kipling´s Animal Stories and a Mowgli stories. This is not the Kiki referenced for Vero Kern´s three Kiki fragrances.

Photo Donated Vero Kern

Vero Profumo´s Kiki is named as a tribute to Alice Ernestine Prin (1901 – 1953), most often known as Kiki de Montparnasse. Embracing the single name “Kiki” she became a fixture in the Montparnasse social scene in Paris and popular artist´s model. She gained experience when she was only fourteen, posing nude for sculptors. Her companion for most of the 1920´s was Man Ray, the American photographer and painter. Kiki is such a fascinating woman I can only encourage you to take some time to discover her.

Kiki by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo

Kiki – A Sorcerer’s Lavender

Vero & Val

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Citruses, Lavender oil, Black currant
Heart: Lavender absolute, Geranium
Base: Patchouli, Cedar, Opoponax, Caramel, Musk

Kiki was the last of the Vero Profumos to creep its way under my skin, but the first bottle to be emptied. More than half way through the Voile and on the second Extrait. I hate lavender. But there are exceptions to every rule. Forget every preconceived idea of lavender and free your mind.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

KIKI EdP. Sensual. Erotic passion fruit. Desirable. Voluptuous. Green lavender whipped into a caramelized patchouli. Luscious. Absolutely fabulous.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

KIKI Voile d’Extrait. Seriously beautiful. Elegant. Uplifting. Self assured. Revitalizing. Velvety. Amethyst lavender. Related but quite different to the EdP.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

KIKI Extrait. Intimate. Warm. Royal purple lavender. Musky. Opoponax whisps. A hint of amber making it denser than the Voile. Magnificent.
(It is to be noted that the Voiles although sharing most of the Extrait DNA – are not quite the same. Not all secrets are shared. )

Further reading: Smelly Thoughts and Chemist In A Bottle
Bloom, First In Fragrance and LuckyScent all carry Vero Profumo
Surrender To Chance has Kiki EdP & Extrait

These are not your grandmother´s lavender bag.

Photo Donated Val

Have you tried the Kiki range? Do you have a lavender you love?

Violaceous Bussis.
CQ

Calvin Klein Obsession Woman & Man

July 13, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 27 Comments

Post by Azar

Hello APJ,

This summer the Pacific Northwest USA has been uncharacteristically hot and dry. To make matters worse, less than 30% of the homes have central air-conditioning. Ours is one of the hot ones! I have yet to acclimate to the 95-100 degree F temperatures that continue to blister the foothills of the Cascade Mountains.

In an attempt to deal with the sweltering heat I pulled out my big, refrigerated bottles of Italian colognes. Sadly, these refreshing fragrances have done little to alleviate the effects of the breathtaking temperatures. The alcohol evaporates too quickly to be effective, leaving not a trace of comforting scent on my skin.

Calvin Klein Obsession

Calvin Klein Obsession for Woman by Jean Guichard 1985

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Green notes, mandarin orange, vanilla, peach, basil, bergamot, lemon
Heart: Spices, coriander, sandalwood, orange blossom, jasmine, oakmoss, cedar, rose
Base: Amber, musk, civet, vetiver, incense

Sweating over a solution, I recalled a recent comment by Cookie Queen suggesting the use of big orientals in hot climates. Her timely advice and Anne-Marie’s recent post inspired me to dig out the squat, kidney shaped bottle of the original Calvin Klein Obsession for Women from its cool, dark tomb in the lower floor storage. Even though I had a vague recollection of Calvin Klein Obsession for Women as nothing more than a spicy cliché typical of many 80s bombastic orientals, I was desperate enough to give it another try. I resurrected Calvin Klein Obsession for Women from the nether regions and carried her up into the bright and toasty upstairs living area. I gave myself a quick splash and WHAMMO…! The power of Obsession was so uplifting and distracting that I totally forgot the scorching heat. The juice in the old bottle had aged to perfection and provided me with a much-needed respite from the stagnant summer air. The overheated atmosphere of the house also revealed the beauty and complexity of Obsession. After 30 years of neglect I was finally enjoying fragrance notes I had never detected before, including almost everything on Fragrantica’s list. I fell madly for my old cologne and hurried to purchase more vintage Obsession for Women.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Calvin Klein Obsession for Men by Bob Slattery 1986

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tangerine/mandarin, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, coriander, lavender, cinnamon
Heart: Nutmeg, carnation, jasmine, sage, Brazilian rosewood, pine, myrrh, red berries
Base: Amber, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, vanilla, vetiver

I was even able to find the original 1986 Calvin Klein Obsession for Men and imagine that almost every element of CK Obsession for Men (and for Women) is synthetic. The jasmine in my vintage version is probably hedione (methyl dihydrojasmonate) and the musk is most likely civetone. For me Obsession for Men packs the distracting punch of the distaff version and is refreshing as well. I also find CK Obsession for Men to be incredibly sexy! My reaction is probably related to hedione. Recent research suggests that this old aroma-chemical activates a specific region of the hypothalamus associated with the release of sex hormones, especially in women. In other words, hedione might actually turn women on!

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

But there is MORE:

Animal behaviorists in South America routinely use Calvin Klein Obsession for Men to lure jaguars to camera traps in the jungle and zookeepers keep their feline charges active and entertained with CK Obsession for Men.

Further reading: Now Smell This and I Smell Therefore I Am
Fragrance Shop has $26/110ml
My Perfume Samples has $2/ml to $7/5ml

I’m wondering if YOU love or hate the various Obsessions? Do you ever wear heavy orientals in the summer heat? Have you tried the Sex Panther fragrance referred to above?

In closing – some like it hot…so be cool!

Azar xx

CLINIQUE 3-Step Skin Care System

July 12, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Post by A F Beauty

The past month I have been trialling the Clinique Three Step Program. I’ve never used the proper three step program before mainly because the cleansing step always used to be a soap bar which I’ve never been keen on. The pack now contains a liquid cleanser, so I gave it a go.

CLINIQUE 3-Step Skin Care System

Photo Stolen Sephora

I’ll start with the moisturiser. This is a reformulation of the original, now called Dramatically Different Moisturising Lotion+. They also have a gel formulation. My Clinique skin-type at the time of purchase was Type 2 which recommends the Lotion+. I like this moisturiser a lot. The texture is light, but the moisturisation level good. It’s OK under makeup, but it wouldn’t be enough for night time (for my skin). It is fragrance free, which is OK but either I am heavy handed or they are light on the pack size – the 30ml didn’t last an entire month for me using the system twice daily.

Next the Clarifying Lotion. With this I am very much in two minds. The Type 2 lotion contains menthol which I dislike at the best of times. It smells very chemically and menthol-y. I used it as instructed for most of the trial, but I have noticed towards the end my skin is more sensitive to other products – perhaps because this one is doing the job so well in exfoliating. The intent of this product is to tighten pores and clean the residue off the skin but I noticed as I swept the lotion over my skin it goes slightly pink and feels tight. I don’t like this. Objectively I can’t tell if my pores are any better – I think they are slightly – but is it worth it? If I’m honest with myself, I wouldn’t use this particular clarifying lotion again – I may go and check the others to see if they are of comparable formulation. For my skin I would prefer an exfoliating cleanser, either with texture or AHA/BHA and if absolutely necessary, a more soothing toner – but most likely I’d skip a toner. (The Clinique SA gave me a sharp look when I told her this!)

Lastly the cleanser. This time a gel liquid soap – very thick and glossy, needs a fair bit of water to break down and emulsify. Once it’s done it cleans well – is fragrance free like the moisturiser and the little tube in the sample pack goes a long way. I don’t think it is necessarily better than any other specific foaming cleanser, but it’s good enough. My skin felt pleasantly clean but not tight after using it.

Overall, I’d stick with the moisturiser, I wouldn’t say no to the cleanser and I’d not go back to the toner. The trial pack is a good way to see how your skin will respond to the three-step or to re-try some of Clinique’s products. Do you use any of the Clinique skincare products? Anyone else use a different Clarifying lotion? I’d like to hear reviews on the other three versions.

Clinique Australia has the Gift Set Sampler $39

AF Beauty xx

Side note: Some of Clinique’s website reviews are based on testers who are provided the products at no cost, although they do disclose this in the review. I purchased the Clinique three-step set with my own funds and the review is my opinion only.

Youth-Dew by Joséphine Catapano for Estée Lauder 1953

July 12, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

Youth-Dew by Joséphine Catapano for Estée Lauder 1953

Sometimes, a smear of Youth-Dew bath oil is all I need. Classic fragrances like this offer not just grandeur and glamour, but a sense of completeness. Symphonically rich, they unfurl their loveliness hour after hour and complete your day with a contented smile as they fade away.

Youth-Dew by Estée Lauder 1953

Youth-Dew by Joséphine Catapano

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, orange, spices, peach, bergamot, narcissus, lavender
Heart: Cinnamon, cassia, orchid, jasmine, cloves, ylang-ylang, rose, lily-of-the-valley, spicy notes
Base: Tolu balsam, Peru balsam, amber, patchouli, musk, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver, incense

At the jump you can read a lovely APJ review of Youth-Dew

What always intrigues me is the divided reputation that Youth-Dew has. ‘Putrid!’ some people cry. ‘Offensive!’ say others. ‘Nasty old lady!’.

I don’t mind if people dislike Youth-Dew. We can’t all be the same. But that ‘old lady’ tag that really annoys. It’s not just that some people are apparently unable to imagine a day when they, too, might be old. It also suggests that in western societies we harbour a deep-seated disdain – almost fear – of the elderly woman as a cultural figure. She’s a witch. She’s a harpy. She is a threat. She smells.

It’s ironic for a fragrance called ‘Youth-Dew’. Famously, it was released originally as a bath oil apparently in the hope that women who were tired of waiting for their menfolk to buy them perfume would happily buy a bathroom product for themselves. Within that innocent, bathroom-blue packaging lies a deep, dark scent of considerable allure if you can pull it off.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

An early ad for Youth-Dew features a naked sylph of a woman about to step into a marble-edged bath, and we are encouraged to ‘Know the secret of the bath’. A later ad featured the divine Pauline Porizkova dressed for evening, and it proclaims Youth-Dew as ‘Simply the sexiest fragrance ever’.

Ads Stolen Fragrantica

Youth-Dew is so good it is not surprising that women have taken it as a signature scent. ‘Women still like to feel beautiful, pampered and loved, and that is what Youth-Dew is all about’, said Estee Lauder. She respected her customers, and for their loyalty gave them fragrances that were great value for money. A few dabs or sprays would last all day.

So, perhaps it’s inevitable after all that we associate Youth-Dew with older women. Although my mother’s signature scent was Yardley’s April Violets, in her late 50s she took up Youth-Dew with a passion. Dear reader, never were there two fragrances more different than April Violets and Youth-Dew, but Mum must have loved Youth-Dew because she went through several bottles of the oil before finally reverting to her old favourite.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Me, I’ve given away my bottle of the spray perfume because it’s just too opulent for daily use, and the bath oil will do me. A few drops in a hot running bath is the best form of winter stress relief I know, bar none.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Yesterday’s Perfume
FragranceNet has $41/70ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml

Over to you. Worn any ‘old lady’ fragrances lately??

And keep spraying ‘til next time!

Anne-Marie xx

Australian Perfume Junkies

Olfactory Opinions from Oz

Fashion

Jersey Parfum by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 2014

CHANEL Jersey parfum Les Exclusifs de Chanel

CHANEL Jersey parfum by Jacques Polge

Sarrasins by Christopher Sheldrake + Serge Lutens 2007

Sarrasins by Serge Lutens 2007

Sarrasins by Christopher Sheldrake + Serge Lutens

Borsch, Vodka and Tears: Melbourne

Borsch, Vodka and Tears: Melbourne

ETERNITY NOW Calvin Klein: New Ad

Eternity Now For Women by Calvin Klein 2015

Eternity Now For Women by Ann Gottlieb

ETERNITY NOW Calvin Klein

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi for Tiziana Terenzi 2013

Maremma by Tiziana Terenzi 2013

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi

Calvin Klein Obsession Woman & Man

Calvin Klein Obsession

Calvin Klein Obsession for Woman by Jean Guichard 1985

Calvin Klein Obsession for Men by Bob Slattery 1986

CLINIQUE 3-Step Skin Care System

CLINIQUE 3-Step Skin Care System

Youth-Dew by Joséphine Catapano for Estée Lauder 1953

Youth-Dew by Estée Lauder 1953

Youth-Dew by Joséphine Catapano