Tihota by Francis Kurkdijan for Indult 2006

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Post by Chairman Meow

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Hey APJ,

By the time I tripped over my signature bottle of Narciso Rodriguez and plummeted headlong down the proverbial rabbit hole, Indult was already an extinct house, and Tihota had already joined the ranks of Bigfoot and Chupacabra in acquiring mythical status. It was blogged about in hushed, reverent tones, but blogged about infrequently (presumably because of said status) and I knew very little about it, aside from it being a Gold Standard Vanilla [Perfume Posse Best of Vanilla List].

Indult Tihota by Francis Kurkdijan 2006

Tihota Indult FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives the following accords in one line:
Vanilla, musks

Indult themselves are no more helpful, their website providing us with the following enigma in Engrish that even Hello Kitty would be huppy with:
“When the skin is « sugar » under the Polynesian sun: it’s an exotic marriage of muscs in fusion and infusion with the sensual vanilla pods”

So when news came of Indult’s resurrection, what choice did I have other than to do the perfumista’s equivalent of pitching a tent and queuing all night for Bieber tickets? I signed up for a split of the first available bottle of Tihota. But before I tell you what Tihota is all about, please indulge me whilst I tell you what it is not:

It is not the sozzled, macerated fruit compote of Guerlain’s Spiritueuse Double Vanille.
It is not the incense smoked, clove studded orange pomander of Mona di Orio’s Vanille.
It is not the Cuban cigar laced with the fresh urine of herbivores, that is Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille.
It is not even the “straight up” vanilla touted by many.

Tihota Indult  Vanilla Flower WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Tihota is probably better described as a glamour shot of a vanilla, spray tanned in caramelised sugar and poised in front of a creme anglaise schmeared lens. From here, I wish I could offer you an intimate dissection of its various nuances, to describe, in licentious detail, the story of its top notes unfurling into a heart unfolding into a base, imploding into a crunchy tortilla shell, but it’s a pretty straightforward fragrance. The opening is the crack of the amber carapace of a creme brulee, with the first few seconds dominated a lightly burnt sugar, soon joined by a scrummy, velvety vanilla-flecked custard. And thus it remains, as immutable as an everlasting gobstopper, for hours.

Tihota Indult -Coral-  FlickrPhoto Stolen -Coral- Flickr

I will be the first to admit that I had been expecting a scent that was less literal an interpretation of a desert trolley and something more, shall we say, highbrow. But then I found myself wanting to gnaw at my hand in a slightly troubling, auto-cannibalistic fashion. I noticed that strangers, lips curled asunder, would sniff lustfully in my direction at the shops.

And I noticed that my decant was very quickly running out, and that I was day dreaming of a full bottle.

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Ca Fleure Bon
LuckyScent has $200/50ml
Surender To Chance starts at $6/.5ml

Have you tried Indult? Old or new? Are you interested?
Chairman Meow

L’Occitane Christmas GIVEAWAY PACK WINNERS

Heya APJ Friends and Family,

YAY!! It’s Christmas time and we have WINNERS GALORE!!

Thank you L’Occitane Australia for your amazing support this year. I am loving your products so much and am using the Divine Cream and Divine Eyes almost daily (one day a week I let my skin completely rest) and I have noticed significant positive changes. Your Ambre & Santal is on high rotation in my fragrance wardrobe and has seen more skin time this month than most of my other fragrances.

L’Occitane World Store Locator is a great way to find your nearest L’Occitane store but I like to go directly to L’Occitane Australia<<JUMP.

 

L’Occitane Christmas GIVEAWAY PACK WINNERS

WHAT YOU COULD WIN

This week there will be 2 winners and each will receive one of these amazingly beautiful packs. No, you don’t get to choose.
P&H Anywhere in the world

Delicate Cherry Blossom Collection

Delicate Cherry Blossom CollectionPhoto Stolen L’Occitane Australia

This collection includes:
1x Cherry Blossom Eau de Toilette 100ml
1x Cherry Blossom Shower Gel 250ml
1x Cherry Blossom Body Lotion 250ml
1x Cherry Blossom Soap 50gr
1x Cherry Blossom Hand Cream 30ml

The Retail Value of all these products is $154 but in the pack you can buy it for $110, free Australian shipping over $100 too.

Best of L’OCCITANE Collection

Best of L'OCCITANE CollectionPhoto Stolen L’Occitane Australia

Here’s what you get in the Best Of L’Occitane Pack with a Retail Value $115: in the pack only $90, and it comes beautifully Gift Boxed for easy wrapping!

1x Shea Butter Hand Cream 150ml
1x Almond Shower Oil 250ml
1x Shea Butter Foot Cream 30ml
1x Lavender Foaming Bath 100ml
1x Extra Gentle Soap – Verbena 100g
1x Pivoine Flora Body Lotion 75ml

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

To be eligible for the draw just mention how you follow the APJs and tell us any L’Occitane product that you’ve used or like the sound of and why.
Also if you’ve had a problem with a particular L’Occitane product their L’Occitane Australia Marketing Team would love to read your honest and constructive criticisms.

Extra Chances?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie 2 x L’Occitane Christmas Packs GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2hY #Giveaway #Perfume #BodyLotion @LOCCITANE

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Wednesday 18th December 2013 10pm Australian EDST
Winners will be chosen by random.org

Winners Are shannonmayerPhoto Stolen shannonmayer

Katie, Kath

CONGRATULATIONS!!! The winners will have till Saturday 21st December 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Go on, pop into your nearest L’Occitane Store and check their products, or go online L’Occitane Australia

Loads of love,
Portia xx

Eau des Merveilles by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer for Hermès 2004

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Post by ElizaD

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Holiday Greetings from the Emerald Valley! Here in Eugene, Oregon we have had the most extraordinary weather: it was sunny and bracingly cold, and then it started to snow. Snow in this valley is rare. When the weather gets like this, I always turn to one perfume, which I am wearing today. In fact, it will probably remain my scent of choice through Christmas. And here’s why.

Eau des Merveilles by Hermès 2004

Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer

Eau des Merveilles Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, lemon, elemi
Heart: Amber, pink pepper, violet, pepper
Base: Fir, oakmoss, cedar, vetiver

Eau des Merveilles reminds me of fir trees, rum toddies and those chocolate oranges you can only find around here during the holidays. You know the kind–their yumminess is enjoyed by smacking the foil package against a table and eating the “sections”. The tradition in our family is to receive one in our stocking from “Santa”, and to enjoy it a bit at a time.

 SONY DSCPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Eau des Merveilles opens with that amazing squirt of orange, which never fades throughout the wearing, it just gets warmer and saltier, like the smell of someone who has just come inside after playing outside in the cold. After a half hour or so, the wood notes start to appear, and while I often find wood notes to be screeching, they are again softened, this time by the oakmoss. To me the vetiver and violet are barely detectable, but perhaps they are what also give Eau des Merveilles its saltiness. I am just beginning to learn how different notes play off each other to make another completely different smell. There has been some discussion about whether this fragrance contains ambergris, a waxy substance produced inside of sperm whales as a response to irritants in their digestive tract, and as precious as pearls, but since I have never smelled ambergris, I couldn’t say. With or without it, I love this perfume for its veritable lack of flowers: the salt highlights the sweetness of the other notes the way a few grains sprinkled on an orange bring out its juicy sparkle.

Eau des Merveilles Hermes Snowy_Mountains WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

The whole package conspires to transport me into the snowy mountains, where I have spent many happy hours cross country skiing through the glistening snow amongst the same evergreens that are used in this perfume.

Eau des Merveilles has decent sillage and longevity and fades away to soft woods and amber after a few hours. I find that this scent is best enjoyed when I wear it on the back of my neck or behind my knees–I am able to wear many fragrances this way, even though I work in a public office where strong fragrances are not always welcomed. And until the weather warms and it starts to rain and the holiday festivities are over, I’ll be sprinkled with drops of marvelous water.

 

Eau des Merveilles Hermes Alex FlickrPhoto Stolen Alex  Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and The Non-Blonde
Beauty Encounter has $20/15ml
My Perfume Samples start at $3/ml

Have you tried and did you like Eau des Merveilles or is it something that doesn’t interest you?

ElizaD xx

A Series Of Sandalwood Dreams: Jordan River on BaseNotes

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Guest Post by Jordan River

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On ya APJ,

This is a night flight…

Fasten your web-belts dear readers. Tonight we are journeying across the web for A Series of Sandalwood Dreams. Let’s see if these dreams take us to a heightened sense of reality over the next 8 nights. Will you dream with me?

Perfume Observant readers may be able to sample something very special somewhere along this journey. Tonight we will meet Mr Purna who is so old that he now resides in the Pali Canon. Tomorrow we will visit The Perfumed Chamber, an ancient place shrouded in the mists of time. I have discovered that the remains of this chamber exist today. There will be clues as to how you can find recreations of The Perfumed Chamber in your own city, home town or village. After that we will explore the northern reaches of a continent that broke away from Gondwanaland many eons ago. We will be visiting perfume plantations and a thriving distillery which uses the principles of alchemy and modern science to turn your sandalwood dreams into reality.

We are starting with a mytho-historical story and this story begins over here at Basenotes…

Let’s go web-traveling.

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A Series of Sandalwood Dreams
Basenotes – Part 1 – Myths and Legends

Photos Supplied by Jordan River

Sirocco by Lucien Lelong GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Hey there Fellow Fumies,
Hotly contested last Azar giveaway of the year. I love how much amazing stuff we giveaway on this blog. it’s extraordinary and I am happy there is such a cross section of offerings.
If you are in the Northern Hemisphere you may very well be freezing today!  My daughter Lauren in New Hampshire commented that she could “use a hot fierce wind about now”.  I hope the two winners enjoy the warmth of their 2ml of Sirocco (and an extra little surprise) no matter where they live.  Happy holidays!

Sirocco by Lucien Lelong GIVEAWAY

Sirocco Lucien Lelong FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week there will be two winners, who will receive

1 x 2ml decant of vintage Sirocco by Jean Carles for Lucien Lelong 1934
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

To be eligible leave a comment on Jean Carles or a vintage perfume/fashion creation that you love and also mention how you follow the APJs (by e-mail, WordPress, whatever).

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Sirocco Lucien Lelong GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-28h #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 12th Decemberber 2013 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

WINNERS berryreviewPhoto Stolen berryreview

Carolyn, Jackie Rosen

The winners will have till Sunday 15th Deceber 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Azar xxx

 

Street Of Dreams: Martin Scorsese, Matthew McConaughey and Scarlett Johansson

Hello Happy Huffers and Lovers,

In our house there are a few favourite actors and actresses, mostly they coincide like the lovely, versatile and elegant Scarlett Johansson who is Jin’s absolute favourite actress and who I really like too. Then we have the don’t agrees, top of that list is Matthew McConaughey, frankly I will walk over glass to see him but Jin would rather roll in glass than have to see him, in anything. Here is a very interesting pairing of the two and I like the story, the detail, the mood and NYC. Also the fact that Scarlett’s character is coming to Sydney, always a thrill to hear the home town used.

dolce-and-gabbana-scarlett-johansson-matthew-mccounaghey-the-one-for-men-ad-campaign

The One Dolce&Gabbana for women FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, bergamot, litchi, peach
Heart: Jasmine, lily of the valley, white lily, plum
Base: Vetiver root, amber, musk, vanilla

The One for Men Dolce&Gabbana for men FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, coriander, basil
Heart: Cardamom, ginger, neroli
Base: Cedar, amber, tobacco

What do you think? Does this piece make you want to at least sniff the product?
Enjoy
Portia x

Dolce & Gabbana Mini Movie

Street Of Dreams: Martin Scorsese, Matthew McConaughey and Scarlett Johansson

PERFUME: The Art & Craft of Fragrance by Karen Gilbert

Heya Happy Huffers,

Christmas is round the corner and if there is anyone interested in fragrance in your life that likes to read then I’ve found the perfect book. Karen Gilbert was in Australia recently and a couple of us down Under Perfumistas had the pleasure of lunching with her and her extremely handsome partner. Not only were they excellent company but they were incredibly knowledgeable about a wide range of subjects and had us enthralled and laughing, enjoying a wonderful afternoon. When it was time to go we were all sad but felt like we had made a couple of new friends for life.

Karen Gilbert will be doing a 1 Day Perfume Introduction MASTERCLASS 20 September 2014<<<JUMP

PERFUME: The Art & Craft of Fragrance

by Karen Gilbert

Perfume Karen Gilbert Book DepositoryPhoto Stolen The Book Depository Perfume AUD$17 including worldwide postage

Perfume Karen Gilbert1

Perfume Karen Gilbert2

Here are Karen and I having a look through a pres copy of the book pre-release. As you can see Karen is gorgeous, filled with good humour and knows so much about fragrance. She has worked for amazing groups including IFF, Neal’s Yard and a couple of others I can’t remember, now runs Olfactory Workshops and Classes, creates fragrance lines fort companies and travels the world. Not a bad life.

Perfume takes us on a journey through Karen’s fragrant life, teaches us some perfume basics (that are only basic when you know them), her take on how we smell and its effects, buying, blending and ultimately some recipes for home dabblers in scent. It is beautifully presented and has some sumptuous photos. Readable for anyone from about age 10 upwards and at every level of perfumista knowledge, there is something here for everyone.

Extremely readable, Karen’s personality shines above all throughout the book and I can hear her Pommy accent and inflections as I read.

There is also her first book, still available, called Natural Beauty. Check that out too.

Portia xxx

Natural beauty Karen GilbertPhoto Stolen The Book Depository Natural Beauty AUD$21 including worldwide postage

PERFUME: The Art & Craft of Fragrance

by Karen Gilbert GIVEAWAY!

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be one winner who will receive:

1  Press Copy of PERFUME: The Art & Craft of Fragrance by Karen Gilbert. It was sent to me by Karen and I am paying her kindness forward.
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

To be eligible for the draw just mention how you follow APJ and tell me in a sentence how you will spend the silly season.

Extra Chances?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie PERFUME by Karen Gilbert GIVEAWAY! http://wp.me/p3PURw-2gz #Giveaway #Book @karengilbert

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 15th December 2013 10pm Australian EDST and winners will be announced in a separate post
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 19th December 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Happy Holidays!

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS Terroir 44°N 03°W EdP by Andy Tauer 2013

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Before we start please hop over to my piece on Olfactoria´s Travels for an introduction to Richard Lüscher Britos (RLB) and their fabulous natural perfumes.

Yuletide Greetings APJ Peeps

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS (RLB)

Terroir 44°N 03°W EdP by Andy Tauer 2013

Richard Lüscher Britos Banner Olfactoria's TravelsPhoto Stolen Olfactoria´s Travels

RLB´s Terroir 44°N 03°W is drop dead gorgeous. Forget everything you ever knew about naturals. What is it with Swiss chemists? I know of two.
Albert Hoffman and Andy Tauer. They both created potions that last a very long time, whether used internally or applied externally. The average trip, olfactory or otherwise,
being between eight and twelve hours. Terroir 44°N 03°W lasts about ten hours. I was stunned. I thought naturals had a short life span. But this is a Tauer.

Andy says 44°N 03°W is free of any isolate and consists exclusively of essential oils, resins and absolutes. It includes wild mountain lavender harvested in the
The Cévennes, a mountain range in south-central France,hence the coordinates), black pine resin, the green fragrance of juniper, and of course, a hint of rose oil!
Thie lavender smells nothing like any lavender I have ever smelt. It´s fruity and herby and soft. Creamy, vanilla-y and lemony. I don´t start to even recognize lavender until a few hours into
the trip. (Check out Andy Tauer´s blog for an in-depth write up on his Cevennian lavender picking adventure.)

French mountain air. In a bottle. Stunning. Astonishingly divine. And no, it´s nothing like any Tauer I have ever tried.

http://www.richardlüscherbritos.com (You´ll need to brush up on your German folks!)

I had the honour of being invited to the launch for RLB by Andy Tauer and Vero Kern, followed up the next day by tea at Tauerville. Spoilt, I know. Here´s a few piccies.

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS Malvin Richard, Andy Tauer, Me!

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS Vero Kern forcing me to smell her new rose perfume, whilst taking afternoon tea at Tauerville.

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS Andy taking a picture of Vero presenting her Terroir.

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS Beautiful flacon

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS Andy with his Terroir

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS Lukas Lüscher, Andy Tauer, Malvin Richard, at the launch

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS Malvin filling me an EdP sample

Isi and me

May you have a peaceful holiday season, wherever you are.

Bussis under the mistletoe.
CQ

Michael by Laurent Le Guernec for Michael Kors 2000

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Post by Gabriella

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Hello perfumed peeps!

Well, I had a totally different post planned for today but something happened fragrance-wise over the weekend that I felt compelled to share with you.

I became reacquainted with one of my old favourites. The sexy, sultry tuberose had been sitting in one of my drawers for ages, silver cap taken off as the bottle had leaked from time to time, looking forlorn and neglected. I spritzed some on Saturday morning and haven’t looked back since.

Michael by Laurent Le Guernec for Michael Kors 2000

Michael Michael Kors FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Freesia, incense, Chinese osmanthus, tamarind
Heart: Tuberose, iris, peony, orris root, arum lily
Base: Musk, cashmere wood, vetiver

Michael has been in my collection ever since I first tried it back in 2001. I was living in London with my brother and a friend. Most Saturdays we’d wander down to the local shopping centre at Brent Cross and we’d part ways for about half an hour or so before going grocery shopping at Tesco. They would look at useful stuff such as clothes and household goods and I’d go sniffing at Sephora and a department store, Fenwick’s. Once they’d come back, I’d annoy them for ages, wrists held aloft with the command: “Sniff!” It was on these sojourns that I first became acquainted with Creeds, Diors, Fracas and finally, Michael. I’d gladly take one of the textured camel spray blotters from the SA each visit and tuck in in my handbag. I sniffed and sniffed for months before I begged my brother to but me a bottle for my birthday.

Michael Michael Kors Tuberose WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The scent is powerful throughout its development and a complete sillage monster, which is exactly how I like it. It starts off with a big blast of tuberose, tempered with the bright sweetness of osmanthus and freesia. The lily appears and then the woody spices unfold, providing some depth to the heady tuberose core. It stays pretty much this way throughout its development.

I did say in a recent review that I thought Nasomatto’s Narcotic Venus is a poorer, albeit much higher priced, relation of Michael. I still stand by this claim. The main difference between them is that the spices are rounder here, whereas in Narcotic Venus, they feel more angular and almost metallic. If you have Michael, Narcotic Venus does seem like a bit of a extravagant frippery.

ball gown simple pretty strapless wedding dressesPhoto Stolen July staff Sino  Flickr

Needless to say, I love that I rediscovered this and that it remains part of my collection. There are naysayers though: Luca Turin and Tanya Sanchez gave a scathing review in Perfumes the Guide, and I concede that overspraying it could lean towards suffocation territory. But I think it is a lovely tuberose for the price point and it’s always been a compliment getter for me.

However, the thing I like about it most is that it was part of that old bastion of department store scents that took a chance and developed something with attitude and personality and very un-focus group like before Aquolina Pink Sugar and the sweet fruity patchouli things became the new normal.

Michael Michael Kors spices Filip Maljković FlickrPhoto Stolen Filip Maljković  Flickr

Further reading: The Scents of Self
Michael is available in most department stores and online discounters.
FragranceNet has it starting at $58.19/50ml (before coupon)
My Perfume Samples starts at $2.50/ml

So, have you tried Michael? What are some of the best department stores scents in your opinion?

With much love till next time,

M x
Michael Kors talks Signature Fragrance