Fashion

Citrus Ester by Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel for Aether 2016

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Portia

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Hiya Frag Freaks,

Modern is the catch cry of Aether, these guys use nothing but captured and created molecules in their scents. A far cry from the old school beauty of naturals and their multifaceted wearings. Here we have industrial scent for the 21st century that manages to remain beautiful, interesting and wearable. When the range first came out I judged them to be ghastly without ever trying one, just because of the concept, but every time I wear one my incredulity falls away and I’m swayed towards their concept.

I grabbed this sample from Surrender To Chance.

Citrus Ester by Aether 2016

Citrus Ester by Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel

Citrus Ester Aether FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Grapefruit, rhubarb, methyl pamplemousse

Sharp sweetness, ferociously clean, cold spoon on tongue, clean sink, fresh air, metal, citrus, ropey greenness. I have never smelled citrus done like this. Captivating and obnoxious. HA! A non animalic grapefruit with a never grown in the earth rhubarb.

I can imagine people who loved L’Eau d’Issey in the 1990s but found it too of its time to continue wearing it will love Citrus Ester. It’s a modern reimagining of the classic but with added sugar and airiness.

Great staying power and fresh to the last whiff, but a different to what we’re used to fresh. This fresh is still invigorating, doesn’t really move around much, nods to cologne as it flies past in a space ship.

Perfect work scent, I can especially imagine it being an excellent after gym scent. Once your body has heated up with a workout, you’ve showered off but this over your bodies innate humanity will be excellent.

Citrus Ester Aether metallic-platter BlueSnap pixabayPDI

From Aether: CITRUS ESTER. IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY, IT WAS ON THE FIRST DAY OF THE WORLD. ONE OF THOSE DAYS THAT SEEMS TO STRETCH OUT FOREVER, AND YOU ARE NOT QUITE SURE THERE IS GOING TO BE A SECOND. THE MOMENT QUIVERS WITH ENERGY. AN ENERGY GHOST, BRIGHT (METHYL GRAPEFRUIT) AND CARING, TINGED WITH A SLIGHT TASTE OF PRIMORDIAL FRUIT (FIRASCONE, RHUBAFURANE). LIFE, THE BEGINNINGS OF LIFE.

Citrus Ester Aether Fragrantica pic

Further reading: BL’eauG
Aether has AUD$145/50ml and delivers to the world
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3.60/0.5ml

Do you like the idea of a fragrance made entirely of captured and created molecules?
Portia xx

Le Sillage Blanc GIVEAWAY WINNER

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Portia

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Hello APJers,

Thanks for getting involved.
Let’s see who won.

GOOD LUCK.
Portia xxx

Le Sillage Blanc GIVEAWAY WINNER

Le Sillage Blanc Parfums Dusita FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Orange blossom, Neroli, Tobacco, Artemisia, Galbanum, Leather, Ambrette, Patchouli, Oakmoss

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Carded Manufacturers Sample of Le Sillage Blanc (Hopefully I can find the card)
1 x Porcelain Esxence Bracelet (Perfect fragrant handbag jewellery)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Wednesday 10th May 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winner was chosen by random.org

Hage Kay

The winner will have till Wednesday 17th May 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Madawi by Arabian Oud

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Erica Golding

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Joyfully scented greetings to you all!

I must say, tonight I had planned to write up a different fragrance, but a special delivery landed that smashed my plans into smithereens. Are you into Arabian perfumery yet? If so, you would squee with delight over this hidden gem! If not, seek out this bottle, it will blow your mind from the inside out:

Madawi by Arabian Oud

My gorgeous goddess friend Cyndi has brought tears to my eyes with her incredible friendship, and I am so thrilled that we have bonded thanks to our shared love of scent. Because of her kickassery of sample enabling, I unboxed a presentation today that I already knew housed a scent worthy of the glitz. The packaging is totally over the top, but it dazzled me tenfold because I fell in love with this perfume in a nondescript little 5 mL hex bottle.

What does it smell like? Well, miraculous is one way to put it. Rose petals cascade into an upswell of luscious fruit nectar, precious woods, a tasteful kiss of smoothly aged patchouli, and a silky white musk haze. It is insanely balanced, a very carefully composed blend that really is effortlessly sexy. It screams evening wear, this is a date night perfume for sure – but I know I will be rocking Madawi whenever I want to feel the power of feminine intensity.

From Arabian Oud: A Special fragrance inspired by the character of the contemporary women, the pride of time Al Aseel including the aromatic bouquet of apple, peach, pineapple melted memories of last longing, an anchor on the base of roses and flowers, patchouli and musk, deeply feeling of real satisfaction .

Have you heard of Madawi? Have you scored any other gems from Arabian Oud, whether hidden or a cult favorite or a fragrance legend? An Arabian Oud storefront opened in New York City not too long ago, I am physically aching to go. 🙂 Have you been? Tantalize me with your tales!

Arabian Oud has $150/90ml

Talk to you all soon, hope you spritzed wisely today!

Hugs, Erica

Superstitious by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2016

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Good Day from the UK APJ Peeps!

As you read this I will probably be trundling my way towards the Frederic Malle store in Burlington Arcade with Tara from A Bottled Rose and the B.londeswunder. Originally it was planned that we would sniff Superstitious together, but that was four weeks ago. I mostly have no problem waiting to try something but every once in a while the junkie in me grabs hold and I have no control. I commented on a FB thread as to how excited I was to try Superstitious and six days later the postman turned up with a package from France with a sample in it. Nothing like a generous addict helping another one out. I believe we call it an enabler in our circle? As opposed to a pusher?

Superstitious Alber Elbaz par Frederic Malle 2017

Superstitious by Dominic Ropion

Superstitious Frederic Malle FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Jasmine, rose, peach, amber, incense, vetiver, patchouli, aldehydes

For some reason I keep calling this perfume suspicious, I think I need to tattoo Superstitious onto my forehead. Dunno why I can´t get a handle on it.

Malle´s first collaboration was with Dries von Noten, the Belgian fashion designer. This was back in 2013. He returns now with number two. Superstitious is an alliance with Alber Elbaz, the Moroccan-Israeli fashion designer, formerly of Lanvin. You might wanna Google him if you have a few moments. He is a really interesting character not to mention his exquisite designs. If I were rich and wore dresses …….

GOBSTOPPER SWEETS

Gobstoppers (jawbreakers) consist of a number of layers and colours, and as each layer dissolves another appears; these layers are often flavoured too. It takes hours and hours, and sometimes days to finish them.

Here we have jasmine, rose, a hint of peach, amber, incense, vetiver, and patchouli wrapped in a thick layer of waxy aldehydes. There is an underlying whisp of grapeness too, the dark purple artificially flavoured Kool-Aid kind. A 1950´s vintage fragrance presented to us in 2017. As the divine waxy aldehydes melt away, the jasmine just bursts forth indolic, with elegance and sophistication. It languishes and slowly melts down into the rich velvety foundation, yet remains intertwined with the full-bodied base notes. Lavish but with a rough edge, and particularly seductive.

It is perfect, Ropion knows it, and I doubt he cares less what anyone else has to say about it.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Perfume Posse
Frederic Malle has €50/10ml

After using the sample I promptly ordered the 10ml travel spray. My first jasmine. I hope Tara and I will find something else to sniff and whilst in the shop! A travel Dries van Noten might not hurt eh?

Suspicious Bussis
CQ

PS. It might be fair to say if waxy aldehydes and indolic jasmine sounds like death warmed up, you might wanna try something else – as did LJG.

(Ed: Pics supplied by Val the CQ unless otherwise noted)

Grand Soir by Francis Kurkdjian for Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2016

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Portia

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Hey Hey Lovers Of NEW!

So many people with noses that I revere are raving about Grand Soir. I tried it a couple of times while out shopping and it left me bored to tears and cold. By the note list I should be madly in love with Grand Soir. All those fabulous resins, tonka and amber? I’m not quite sure why it didn’t grab me by the scruff of the neck, shake me around and throw me to the ground with my eyes rolling into my head, panting and palpitating.  Pretty sure that it’s not the fragrances fault so I’m going to give it a home along wearing. I ordered 3ml from Surrender To Chance and I’m ready to go.

Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2016

Grand Soir by Francis Kurkdjian

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Spanish labdanum
Heart:Siamese benzoin
Base: Brazilian tonka bean, Amber, Vanilla

So, in the comfort of my home with no other fragrant distractions grand Soir is a beautiful resinous amber. Softly comforting, tree sap sweet and cuddly. Actually the light touch here reminds me of Pierre Guillaume’s work. Toffee, maple syrup, salted caramel icing and peanut brittle are the images and tastes created in my mind & mouth.

Imagine if you took Absolue Pour Le Soir and dialled the animal back from 20 to one. Grand Soir has the same furry yet porcelain smooth feeling. Through the heart the sweetness lessens and Grand Soir becomes drier, more sweet warm summer evening winds.

PDI

My thoughts are that Francis Kurkdjian is a bit like Serge Lutens, he makes a rare few challenging and outrageous fragrances and a bunch of more accessible ones. These accessible ones are the bread and butter of his business, have a wide department store appeal but with the niche cachet. It’s a clever business model and it has worked for him, bringing MFK the brand to a place where it’s become one of LVMHs new acquisitions.

So Grand Soir is a beautifully blended amber/resinous scent. Easy to wear, lasts well and smells good. If I didn’t already have a dozen ambers in my collection or if I was newer to the perfumista life I would definitely put down my dollars for a bottle.

Wikipedia

Further reading: BLeauG
LuckyScent has $215/70ml
Surrender To Chance have samples from $4.50/0.5ml

Does Grand Soir appeal to you?
Portia x

Miller et Berceaux GIVEAWAY WINNER

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Portia

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Thanks APJ and Miller et Bertaux,

This was a really popular giveaway. Good luck.

Libertine has the range in Australia
Aedes has the range in the USA

Portia xxx

 

Miller et Berceaux GIVEAWAY WINNER

Fragrantica

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x set of Carded Manufacturers Samples of the above
NB: The A Quiet Morning will be a decant from my bottle
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Wednesday 3rd May 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winner was chosen by random.org

Robert H.

The winners will have till Wednesday 10th May 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Fragrance Shopping – USA Premium Outlet Centres

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TinaG

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Hi APJ!

During my trip to Southern California in April 2017, we had an opportunity to check out two Premium Outlet Centres, one in Camarillo on the way to Santa Barbara, and Desert Hills which is just outside of Palm Springs. If you’re ever heading to one of these massive shopping areas, my top tips are:

* Take water, snacks and lunch. Yes there’s food there but you’ll need actual sustenance to get through the shopping day.
* Time evaporates there. If you think you’ll be 2 hours, basically just double it. We had multiple text messages between us saying “1/2 hour more? 1 hour more?”.
* Do you research before-hand of what is top of your hit list, and roughly the RRP. Then grab a centre map and plan your shop visits. This will save you heaps of time and possibly money. Don’t forget that tax is variable and added on at the register.

USA Premium Outlet Centres TinaG 2017

Fragrance Shopping – USA Premium Outlet Centres

Of course I went straight to the fragrance stores. As these are outlets / seconds, the content of the shops varied from place to place. I found the shops such as Perfumania and the Fragrance Outlet very similar to Chemist Warehouse back in Aus. The prices weren’t what I would call a bargain – for example I found Bvlgari Black at $34US, before tax and conversion this is not cheaper than what I can pick it up for at home. One shop (I think Perfumania in Desert Hills) had a whole section dedicated to Paris Hilton fragrances, and a similar display for Britney Spears.

USA Premium Outlet Centres TinaG 2017 a

I did get to try Ivanka Trump’s fragrance which was OK, actually. It was a fruity floral, of course, but it had a coolness about it which I think was brought on by a decent apple accord, keeping the sweetness in check. After I picked this up the sales assistant kept coming over with some horrendous options for me to “try as you might like this”. After the third sniff to be ‘polite’ I had to say no – just – No, you need to stop doing that please! My nose was full of pink gunk smells by that stage and I had to literally run out, much to the SA’s surprise.

USA Premium Outlet Centres TinaG 2017 b

After trying the dedicated fragrance stores I looked at branded stores for fragrances & interest. Barneys and Etro were clothes-only. Aww. I came across a Porche Design store in Desert Hills, which I’d never heard of before. WOW!!!! They’ve got some great gear, the mens shoes were amazing and the handbags sleek and functional. I had a lot of fun chatting with the sales assistant who was beyond helpful, was a great experience and I’m glad I dropped in.

My visit to SoCal did have fragrant leanings but would you believe all I brought home with me were three small samples from Lucky Scent in LA. I think that’s a first. I did get some jeans, jacket, shoes and an iron. But that’s another story.

What about you – do you hit up the fragrance stores hard when you travel, or is it more of a reconnaissance like my US trip?

Till next time,
Tina G xx

Mitzah by Francois Demachy for Christian Dior 2010

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Portia

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Hey Crew,

I am so sorry but I have no bloody post for you tonight. Somehow we ended up without on a Friday night. I was wearing Mitzah tonight so here’s how it went.

Mitzah by Francois Demachy for Christian Dior 2010

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Coriander, rose, spices, cinnamon, labdanum, vanilla, honey, patchouli, incense

I love how Mitzah opens all hot smoky spices and incense. Honey gives a sweet animalic, tobacco feel and the patchouli & labdanum make me think of flesh, earth and leather.  A cracker of a perfume, swirling around itself, making me feel all glamorous and giving me the va va voom of a Gabor sister in her prime. This is not an intense journey through the perfume with mountainous peaks and troughs, while there are definite start middle and end notes it’s more of a progression. The kick at the start warms slowly and languidly through mildly sweet towards a honey ouded amber dry down. On a good day I get 8+ hours before Mitzah is lost. As the PR says elegant, feminine and mysterious, but I think not so feminine; a man could wear it very comfortably because it is spicy amber.

I was out to dinner with Ainslie Walker and her partner Ben. We have loved Mitzah since it was released and often talk about it. I wore it in Ainslie’s honour and funnily she almost wore it too. It was a lovely night full of good food and laughs.

Further reading: ISmellThereforeIAm and Olfactoria’s Travels

Have you ever swanned around in lashings of Mitzah?
Portia xx

Atelier des Ors GIVEAWAY WINNER

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Portia

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Het Crew,

You all are amazing. Thank you all so much for getting involved and being a part of the APJ family.

HUGE thanks also go to Megan In St Maxime who works for Atelier des Ors and gave me the set to give.
Portia xxx

Atelier des Ors GIVEAWAY WINNER

Fragrantica

Kate Apted

You have till Monday May 1st 2017 to get in touch [portia (underscore) turbo (at) yahoo (dot) com (dot) au] with your address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit