Poivre Samarcande by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermes 2004

March 31, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey there Hermès fans,

I know there are a bunch of you out there. There’s something ultra lux, a feeling of family and extra care, about Hermès that none of the other multinationals have retained. That’s my personal take on them anyway, the company is probably as money hungry and paracious as the rest but with better marketing, who of us will ever really know?

Poivre Samarcande by Hermès 2004

Poivre Samarcande by Jean-Claude Ellena

Hermès Australia

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Virginia cedar, patchouli, paprika, oakmoss, caraway, green notes, oak, pepper

Released as part of the original Hermessence range in 2004. I tried it around then but was overwhelmed by the incredibly over the top grandeur of Ambre Narguile and for the longest time felt no need to even bother with the others. It’s funny, both reviews that I have linked below write of similar experiences but with different of the five first scents. Clearly JCE had his bases covered, but then if we bypassed Poivre Samarcande then did the rest of the world too? Now 12 years on and we still find Poivre Samarcande in the Hermessence range and both Birgit and Clayton have come around to its charms.

London Crew 2014

Three years ago while in London with Michael, Val, Tara and the London crew our last stop of the evening was Selfridge & Co. We were all dog tired and emotionally exhausted from a super fun day shopping, eating, sniffing, laughing and generally being mayhem. Tara and I scooted off to Hermès to try the newest in the range at that time Epice Marine and were given some samples, including Poivre Samarcande. The samples were drained and I bought Poivre Samarcande in a Travel Set, yet I’ve never written of my love for this quietly elegant stunner, so here goes……

WikiMedia

How does Poivre Samarcande smell and make me feel?

Well, it opens wet and spicy, An unusual green that is cut through with fresh cracked black pepper and the taste of cutting into a capsicum (bell pepper). Then the green turns a different shade and I’m smelling a cross between electric sawing green wood and the sting of a pickled caper. None of these describe the scent accurately but Poivre Samarcande is hard to pin down. It has the sheer, wet, metallic, oily signature of Jean Claude Ellena yet the nuance is so subverted from the note list that I can only give my impressions.

How does it make me feel? Well, I enjoy smelling like this. Actually, it’s more than that I LOVE smelling of a JCE creation. They are clever and classy, never over the top but weird enough that I enjoy the fun of the fragrance, the mad whimsy that seems so buttoned up until you lavishly overspritz and suddenly they fragrance becomes a thick, ropey, cage of scent. You can see through it but you are captured, overwhelmed and must live the scent story alone.

Flickr

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Olfactoria’s Travels
Available at Hermès stores, online and some large department stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/0.5ml

Which of the Hermès line do you love?
Portia xx

Soap: Let’s Talk Hoarding

March 2, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 38 Comments

Post by Portia

Pssssst APJ,

Want to read a secret? You think my fragrance collection is big, you should see my bathing products collection. O M G! It is Out Of Control. If I live to two thousand years old I will not have used all my soap, shower gels, bubble bath and bath oils. It’s a freaking SICKNESS and I can’t stop. Nor would I want to, it’s fun choosing what to use next or to put in Jin’s bathroom.

Soap: Let’s Talk Hoarding

Here’s the funny thing. I would be just as happy if I had 5 bars of Simple Soap in the cupboard and that was all we used. It’s not that I get more happiness by having more but they are all so lovely and some are so old that they have rarity value (for me) and opening them is particularly exciting. Knowing it could be the last Bal a Versailles vintage soap I’ll ever open, that’s a MOMENT. A momentous occasion to be savoured and enjoyed. Almost as exciting as its first use, or the package arriving, or the last use when you know that sliver has had its final fling.

Today while in the bath I got to open a brand spanking new beauty. L’Occitane soaps are so silky, I love how they feel while washing and how my skin feels after. The Pour Homme scent is soft and lightly refreshing but mainly it has a Western clean feel.
So, here is a small selection of the hoard. I grabbed some of my favourites, some of the vintage and some bought on holidays. Every soap has a story as much as every fragrance does and some are absolutely irreplaceable. Opening the ultra rare gives me an incredible thrill, I’m sure you can imagine.

Here are three Hermès soaps, the beige is vintage Caleche and the maroon vintage Amazon, the Eau d’Orange Vert bought shopping in LA with Tom from Perfume Posse. The Tea Tree is from New Delhi FAB India, behind that is Ortigia Sicilia which I bought from Twisted Lily, Brooklyn NYC Nov 2014, in front of that is a set of Oriza L Legrand bought in Feb 2014 from their Paris store, Saipua Cedarwood with Eucalyptus & Mint bought from Beauty Habit on the Perfume Posse ScentSation Bus Tour.

The Greco-Deco I bought from Peony Melbourne but had read of them on Bois de Jasmin, love the Jo Malone packaging but haven’t tried the soaps yet, Amouage Interlude 4 pack of mini soaps are so lux, Nesti Dante was bought in Vienna while shopping with Sandra of Olfactoria’s Travels and Michael Borg. Mitsouko & Shalimar!!! Who has ever used these? I just love having them. Down the front is Andy Tauer’s Rose soap, a limited edition crowd funding soap I bought.

Mysore Sandal Soap was once made of real sandalwood but I think it’s now mainly synthetic, still smells beautiful and leaves me softly scented, Claus Porto Cerina bought at LuckyScent in May 2013 on the Perfume Posse ScentSation Bus Tour, Bal a Versailles came in its cellophane but I had to open it (smells freaking incredible), Le De Givenchy came in a pristine set with a frag & 2 soaps, Little Stars is from Olympic Orchids and it will blow your mind, CHANEL No 5 soap also came in a frag + soap pack.

They slowly get used, I love to have them and they are all so glamorous.

What is your favourite soap?
Portia xx

Val CQ’s Christmas Giveaway 2015: Hermès + Vero Profumo

December 22, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 59 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Hi APJ

All in all 2015 has been quite a perfumed year. I went to the Esxence in Milan and had a seriously fun perfume extravaganza trip through the USA. I have deepened my friendship with several perfumista bloggers (you know exactly who you are) and am incredibly thankful for that. It has enriched my my life.
I have tried quite a number of new perfumes although nowhere near the amount that proper perfumistas do! I am as fussy as ever. I fell in love with Geisha Noire from aroma M and have recently discovered that Neela Vermeire´s Pichola is fabulous in the cold weather.

All my favorite blogs have wonderful lists of what to buy for Christmas, the top ten favourites of the year, not to mention gift buying guides. I can only refer you to them, as I am not capable of coming up with anything that detailed!

As is well known, I mostly wear Vero Profumo and 2015 saw no change in that. I am über-excited at the upcoming launch of the new VP fragrance, have been lucky enough to try it and can only say if you love leather, tobacco and a dash of red apple you are in for a serious treat. And that is just the EdP.

Val CQ’s Christmas GIVEAWAY 2015

Hermès + Vero Profumo

Photo Donated Val

I want to share what I love this year. Proper decants out of my own bottles. I have chosen Mito EdP from Vero Profumo and Cuir d’Ange from Hermés. (I used up three travel sizes of it before I got a full bottle from my husband for my birthday.) It is such a soft and intimate leather.

January is going to be fabulous this year. Portia and I and our various friends and many others will be meeting up for the
Perfume Lovers London event at the end of the month. I will also be visiting with my own family, aunt and uncle, cousins and my brother. It will be a chance to meet perfume people that I have online friendships with too. And yes of course I know what perfume I am gonna be wearing.

Photo Stolen Flickr

“It is a fair, even-handed, noble adjustment of things, that while there is infection in disease and sorrow, there is nothing in the world so irresistibly contagious as laughter and good humor.” Charles Dickens, A Christmas Carol

So let us don our gay apparel.

Bussis and strength for 2016.
CQ

Photo Stolen manoneileen

CQ Xmas GIVEAWAY!

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have one winner who will receive:
1 each decants Mito and Cuir d’Ange (from Val’s bottles)
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged. Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us any favorite quotes or Christmas carols? Mito or Cuir d’Ange?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 24th December 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Monday 28th December 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Friday Night Fragrance Choices: Cartier, CHANEL, Hermès, L’Occitane?

September 25, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Hello Party People,

It’s Friday night. You’re dressed up, looking fine. You’re off with your crew or your partner to do something fun, foody, outrageous, or a film. There’ll be loads of interaction with someone or a group and while you have all the other bases covered there is always the burning question: What fragrance do I wear? I have put together a short list of some long term faves and reasons why I would choose them.

Friday Night Fragrance Choices

FUN!

OK! So it’s a party night, the gang is getting ready and you want to be a super scent siren with the whole world’s nose leading straight to you. How can you stand out from your mates and be the Queen Bee of fragrant memories? Firstly, choose something very different from what the rest of your friends wear. I’m figuring if you are reading this for information (rather than pleasure) that you are young or new to perfume and that many of your friends are probably wearing fruity/floral/patchouli fragrances that are extremely popular and at a reasonable price point. Let’s step outside that box then:

Queen by Queen Latifah: So think oranges, vanilla, booze and resins. This super cheap thrill is totally different from the current fruit/choulis, is fun and flirty, lasts forever and smells awesome. Queen Latifa had her nose on the prize while creating Queen, sultry and sexy, yum.

Petit Fracas by Robert Piguet: Here we have an old favourite, Fracas, remade in a 21st Century way by adding loads of chocolate and pear. Still an outrageously glamorous white floral but with a depth and breadth that Fracas lacks. In Petit Fracas you will definitely smell head and shoulders above the crew but be such a fun burst of fragrance that it will fit with them too, and you’ll probably cause a small disturbance wherever you go.

Oriental Mint/Noir Marine by Phaedon: Here we have something totally different to anything the crew will be wearing I bet. Cold salty sea water, mint, leather and a bunch of resins (I also detect a lovely creamy dark chocolate not mentioned) all combine to make a super alluring, fizzy, fun waft of fresh, but not your 1990s fresh, this is twisted by Pierre Guillaume into something new and very exotic but still so fun. The mint is not too outrageous but it does add a wonderful sizzle.

FOODY!

Here is a different kettle of fish (pun intended) because now you are trying to be alluring across a table but don’t want to skunk the room or hamper the enjoyment of everyone’s food. What you wear to dinner needs to be subtly insinuating and has to last all night because after dinner you’ll want a bit of a walk or a cuddle and that’s when your fragrance needs to do the hard work, making you the most delicious and desirable thing your date, or crew, has smelled all night. This is tricky but let’s look at a couple of options:

Épice Marine by Hermès: Created by Jean Claude Ellena and Breton “pirate chef” Olivier Roellinger it is both totally and completely not foody. Being a soft focus salt, spice and woodsy fragrance it will be both alluring and unexpected once the dinner is over and you really get close enough to smell your scent. I find Épice Marine to be an epic stayer, still pumping out its magic hours and hours later.

Vanille & Narcisse by L’Occitane: OK, so this one has become a go-to spritz as I walk out the door for everything. Cool or warm, dressed up or down, anytime Vanille & Narcisse seems to fit. Not overpowering or weird it is a comfortable scent that will work wonders at dinner, no matter who you’re with. If it’s someone special then let lovely sensual vanilla do all the hard work, you just enjoy your meal and company.

L’Heure Convoiteé II by Cartier: For me L’Heure Convoiteé II Cartier wears like a beautiful cool crystal dream made up of lovely powdery carnation and iris. Itr doesn’t say it in the notes but I get amazing wetness, and some slightly metallic twang. So otherworldly and not so strong to overpower your meal but still enough ooomph to be noticed. Meant as a summer scent but I love to wear it in the dead of winter too.

OUTRAGEOUS!

Centre of attention fragrance, traffic stopper, blow the back of your head off fabulousness? It’s your party, you are being feted, book launch, presentation at an event, wedding, or so many other reasons. This is the fragrance that you want bookmarked by every nose in your orbit. Every time they smell it you want YOU to be the scent memory. A glorious diamond of a scent that will make you shine.

Bombay Bling! by Neela Vermeire Creations: I love how Bombay Bling opens with a supersonic blast of fruit and sweetness, morphs into a sweet bouquet and then grinds down to a woody/earthy dark and sexy thing that will have everyone sniffing around you curiously. All the stages are lovely and exotic, you will smell killer from go to whoa and if you need to stand out in a crowd then Bombay Bling! will definitely get you across the line. If serious money smelled captivating, this is what it would smell like.

Jardins d’Armide by Oriza L Legrand: One of my pick ups in Europe earlier in 2014 and what an excellent choice, Jardins d’Armide is a cool iris, floral, powdery and animalic wonder that smells drop dead gorgeous on me and always garners attention. You really have to live up to this amazing scent and it will help to lift your game, just deep breaths of Jardins d’Armide.

FILM!

2-3 hours sitting so close your arms and legs are touching, here subtlety is the key. A whisper of lavish loveliness that will draw your partner in to your neck for some sniffing. A great way to get them close enough to kiss.

Splash Forte by IUNX: I have worn Splash Forte through the heat of India in summer, the cool of French winter and in Sydney’s summer and autumn. In that particularly sparse way that Olivia Giacobetti has it is a beautiful, haunting, modern masterpiece. That’s my opinion anyway. Spices, herbs, woods and a very naughty musk. All done just below the radar in terms of projection, your partner will smell you but won’t be aware how devastatingly your fragrance is playing and luring them into your light. Excellent close wear, silent assassin.

Ma Folie de Noël by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz: Seriously scrummy, sweet spiced cream and incense. Opens big but pretty soon is a soft edible waft from your shirt whenever you move or your wrists every time you gesture. If this doesn’t get your date to snuggle in closer then you are with some poor bugger who has anosmia. Be extra nice to them and enjoy the film and your fragrance selfishly. MMMMMM This is the good stuff.

What do you wear for Friday nights? How do you like to spend them?
Portia xx

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2015

September 12, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Portia

It’s time to bid farewell to Jean-Claude Ellena at Hermès. I’m sad because he really came to embody so much of what I think Hermès is famous for: the interesting, not fashion, best of, made to last, made to use, made to love and for people who can still feel love. JCE being the nose at Hermès felt like their visions were aligned, sheer beauty could sum up Hermès or Jean Claude Ellena’s fragrances for Hermès. Here is Le Jardin de Monsieur Li: his last opus for the company, his last fantastical garden……

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li by Hermès 2015

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li by Jean-Claude Ellena

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Kumquat, jasmine, mint

The garden series are polarising, as much of Ellena’s work is. One of the interesting things about them is that we have been able to see into this particular artists creative journey with some of these scents through his own, and others, written words. Though we know little it’s more than we know of other perfumers and that for me makes JCE a bit of a mate, a friend or acquaintance that has let me a little behind their eyes into the workings of their brain. WE have been there when the unripe mango triggered a fragrance, through some of the depressing routes that led to failure and we also know something of his love of fragrance, his bringing home freaky scents the kids asked for, the love for his wife and his engaging personality that has made him a fragrance lovers household name.

So, how does Le Jardin de Monsieur Li smell? Bittersweet, ethereal, sweet and cool, sparkling yet curiously oily too. Le Jardin de Monsieur Li is about drinks in the shady garden in the afternoon as the sting of the days heat abruptly cuts off, the gardeners are watering or maybe there’s just been an afternoon storm so the air is clearer, less dusty and the fragrance has changed from dust to fecund wet earth and grass and you have a champagne fruit punch that is so delicious and the first one hardly even touches the sides of your thirst. Refreshing, lifting, light and elegant, Le Jardin de Monsieur Li is a fond and fervent farewell.

Photo Stolen Hermès

The Le Jardin de Monsieur Li artwork looks like they have a new artist too. The modern/retro feel of the watercolour is so much more computer-generated looking than previous pictures and while I think it lovely there is a feeling that the Hermès crew is already moving on from the JCE years. Moving away from the lovely home made feel of the naughties and into a more hipster/art-without-creativity/big-business-boring feel for the future. It’s a shame if it’s true, one of the things I love about Hermès is their quaint and homey version of world domination. The free spirit has been caged and trained.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Perfume Shrine
Hermes stores and some larger department stores carry the Jardin range
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

What is your favourite Jean Claude Ellena fragrance for Hermès?
Portia xx

Kelly Calèche by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2007

August 23, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

On Kelly Calèche, and how to deal with change……..

Recently as I’ve considered what fragrances to review, my mind keeps turning to Hermès Kelly Calèche. I’ve rediscovered this fragrance after years of finding it merely pleasant at best, and for the moment it’s the closest thing I have to a signature scent. However, the dashing review Portia gave Kelly Calèche a while ago on APJ really can’t be beaten.

I’ve realised that my mini-obsession with Kelly Calèche is because it represents a shift in taste for me. So, today I thought I’d ponder awhile on how it feels when you own enough perfume to scent a small town, but reach for just the one same bottle over and over again.

Kelly Calèche by Hermès 2007

Kelly Calèche by Jean-Claude Ellena

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

First, here’s a quick reminder of the notes in Kelly Calèche EdT,

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: grapefruit, narcisuss, lily of the valley
Heart: mimosa, rose, tuberose
Base: leather, iris

The airy clarity of the fragrance is a hallmark of its creator, Jean-Claude Ellena. He has produced many works in this style, but Kelly Calèche happens to be one I especially like. What I can’t seem to deal with are dense, sweet fragrances which feel like they are gripping my skin like a tight glove. Kelly Calèche is not a gripping glove, it’s a veil.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

As a chypre lover from way back, I’ve never cared for really sweet fragrances and own very few gourmands. But nowadays I can’t wear even mildly sweet fragrances. My prized bottles of L’Ambre des Merveilles (which normally I adore) and Bottega Veneta are neglected. Calvin Klein’s Obsession – the only oriental I really love – is also languishing unattended. It’s not especially sweet, just too dense. Lancôme’s Cuir de Lancôme– a masterpiece! – annoyed me all yesterday by sticking to my skin and not letting me breathe.

It’s the feeling that I’m being stifled and can’t quite breathe – that’s what I can’t tolerate. I need fragrances with lots of space between the notes. The nice thing about Kelly Calèche is that it has good longevity as well as airiness. It’s still too cold where I live for me to get out the summer colognes, but goodness I’m looking forward to that moment!

Photo Stolen Hermès

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Bois de Jasmin
Kelly Calèche is available from all Hermès stores
FragranceNet has $112/100ml before Coupon
Surrender To Chance has EdP samples starting at $3/ml

So what about you? Do you know the feeling when you find yourself needing just one style of fragrance, and rejecting the rest? Do you try and resist, or do you just swing with it? How long does it last?

A side note: soon I’m off to Paris (!!!) for a week, and when this post is published I’ll likely be about to step on a plane. I’ll be replying to comments but do forgive me if I’m a bit tardy.
When I’m back I’ll have Parisian adventures to share. In the meantime, keep spritzing!
Anne-Marie xx

Where Did My Scented Journey Begin….

August 19, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Post by Liam

Good Evening Scentspeople!

Detracting from the norm, I wish to tell you about my experience with scent, and how my writing escapades began.

Where Did My Scented Journey Begin

When I was a wee chap I would pinch my father’s fragrances. Polo Black, Fahrenheit by Dior, Bvlgari Black – I would rock up to school with strong officious scents. Whilst my peers and teachers thought this was odd, this didn’t bother me in the slightest.

At 13 or 14, as an early and initial fan of Marc Jacobs’ style, I was thrilled when Bang (the silver bottle) hit the markets. Spice! I have always loved spice! The trio of peppercorns and the resinous notes present in Bang were distinctly different from other scents, and it had this wonderful duality going on: hot spice and cool woods. I finished that bottle and moved on to Burberry’s London (pour homme). Again, this is another spice theme. These two scents acted as a precursor to my obsession and a clear barometer of my taste. Spiced creations with rich interplay.

And then I was treated to a bottle of Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille. Warm boozy vanilla and sensual tobacco notes. Dried fruits for weight and tonka bean. An almost edible honey note…

Then, visiting the scent section of David Jones late 2013, I spritzed on Terre D’Hermes (parfum), and that was the beginning of the end. I snatched up Terre D’Hermes and wore that as an everyday scent, and journeyed into the Hermes boutique and purchased Eau De Orange Verte. This is where I began to learn the specifics of scent. I was devastated when I couldn’t figure out why this Eau de Cologne would last only a brief moment in time on my skin. This prompted intense research … I was beginning to learn about sillage, evaporation, citrus, orientals … You name it.

Fast forward to June 16 2014. The most important day of my fragrant life. From memory, the day plays out like a perfect vignette. Picture a wet and raining Melbourne day, made romantic with long coats and brollies. I had a collection of about 5 perfumes now, and was even wearing the female marketed Black Orchid by Tom Ford. But, I had yet to find something that grabbed me, and I was determined to find a scent that was truly ‘me’.

Brin de Reglisse by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermes 2004

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Hay, lavender, licorice

I walked into Hermes, went over to the Hermessence scents and picked up a bottle – Brin de Reglisse – and on first sniff my knees began to buckle. It was heaven in scented format. Everything I loved. The sun kissed smell of lavender from Provence, the caramelised spiciness of long black liquorice, a facet of coffee, and a feature of hay and caramel. Everything I loved was captured in scent. It was a study of liquorice. A snapshot of Provence, reminding me of my times in tearooms scented with lavender and refinement.

I was so thrilled by this reaction that I had to tell someone. And so, I started my blog: Olfactics. With only a year of proper experience under my belt, but indeed a lifetime’s experience of wearing scent, I felt I was prepared to tell the world what scent is to me, and how it moves me (or sometimes, fails to!).

Brin still lies close to my heart, right next to Habit Rouge and Portrait of a Lady (and… and… So many more).

So APJ’ers, what scent started your obsession?

-Liam.

Blogger at Olfactics

Hiris by Olivia Giacobetti for Hermès 1999

July 26, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

Often on a Sunday afternoon after a busy weekend I wind down with a bath and a book. The fragrance for afterwards has to be gentle and subtle to keep me content for the evening, before a new week cranks up again. At the moment, Hermès Hiris is the perfect accompaniment to this ritual.

Hiris by Olivia Giacobetti for Hermès 1999

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander, amber, iris, carnation
Heart: Iris, neroli, rose
Base: Honey, vanilla, cedar, almond tree

What works for me in Hiris is the contrast of cool and warm notes. Cool iris is dominant all the way through but is warmed and made easeful by spices (I love the coriander in the opening moments), and the subtlest touch of vanilla later on. (If there is honey in there I don’t perceive it unless it’s that touch of skin-alike sweetness in the base.) I don’t get the ‘carroty’ note in Hiris that other people notice. Earth certainly, but I smell no carrots. Hiris is dreamy and remote, but it likes you. Hiris wants to settle on your skin and stay there.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Other iris fragrances vying for our attention on the department store shelves, such as Prada’s Infusion d’Iris and Chanel’s No 19 Poudré, combine iris with gigantic quantities of pillowy white musk, but Hiris retains a dewy clarity that has nothing to do with musk. Neither the Prada or the Chanel appeal to me. Initially I loved No 19 Poudré but the musk was just too … well … dull. And I have trouble smelling Infusion d’Iris.
What bothers me sometimes in Hiris is a kind of musty soapiness. ‘Clothes washed in unscented fabric softener’ is how Luca Turin describes it, and while I would not go that far, I do see what he means, unfortunately.

Photo Stolen Hermès

I’m fine with Hiris not being a statement fragrance. To my mind Hiris is Hermès’ contribution to the 90s style of uncomplicated fragrances that seek only to make us feel clean and smell good. Thankfully it’s not as dated as many others in this genre. If the sillage is only moderate, Hiris veils beautifully. People will sense rather than really know that there is a lovely fragrance nearby.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Although the soapiness prevents me from loving Hiris, I persevere. I wear it out, wear it at home, wear it to bed. Where I live it’s winter, so who knows? Maybe Hiris will work better in warmer weather. I spray generously. It’s the best way to get to know a fragrance. Luckily I picked up my bottle at very little cost via local online classifieds, and it’s got about 60mls left, so I don’t have to be frugal. Mine’s the deep blue bottle. I’ve not seen the new one; do comment if you have compared them.

Further reading: Non Blonde and Olfactoria’s Travels
Hiris can be found at Hermès online and all Hermès stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Do you have a favourite quiet fragrance for those in-between times, when you just want to smell good to yourself?
‘Til next time, keep spritzing!
Anne-Marie xx

Santal Massoïa by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2011

June 17, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Liam

There is no secret that I dislike gourmand perfumes: I can’t stand them! But, there’s another side of myself that secretly adores the sort of gourmand that doesn’t make itself out to be one. Shalimar and L’Heure Bleue are considered gourmands to an extent, but perhaps because whilst they themselves are totally and utterly edible perfumes (Shalimar oscillates beautifully between incense oriental and vanilla dessert amazingly), they do not actively come across as perfumes designed to be eaten. This is where my distinction is drawn. I am a gourmand loving anti-gourmand fan, who happens to love vanillas, chocolatey patchouli and milky woods when they don’t market themselves as edible.

Santal Massoïa by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2011

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords: in one line:
Massoïa wood resin from New Guinea, coconut, peach, butterscotch, sandalwood, milk sweets, dried fruits

Jean-Claude Ellena (my favourite perfumer) has treated Santal Massoïa as a meditation on the characteristics of wood notes in perfume. ““There are linear, vertical woods like cedar, and others that are horizontal, round, supple and velvet-smooth, such as sandalwood and massoïa”. Ellena grapples the curvaceous facets of sandalwood and massoïa, and bolsters it to intensify comfort, like an embrace or a soft blanket. Gone are the vertical conventions of wood found often in masculine scents, as Santal Massoïa has been scrubbed down to reveal a genderless woods fragrance, with its apparent lightness an overall illusion.

The result then is a creamy creation, round and indirectly delicious, pushing Ellena’s trademark minimalism to the very edge, described by Chandler Burr as: “maximal minimalism”. Massoïa wood and sandalwood maintain inherent lactic qualities, cradled gently in a bath of warm milk and carmel. To add complexity, Ellena adds an additional dimension of florals and fruits, taking indolic creamy white florals (jasmine, and perhaps tuberose stripped of its carnal severity) with moreish fruits, such as apricots and the sweet skin of green figs. Together, this creates an encompassing impression of coconut and dulce de leche (custard), again, this is warm, decadent and skin-like. A sort of luminism with a clear depiction of calm, and a natural stillness creating beauty.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

The sandalwood here is assertive and importantly doesn’t smell synthetic, opening with a tropical humid quality that at certain angles appears wet and nutty, with a tame oiliness. Thus, there are pleasantly pungent aromatic hits from time to time, which is nasally very pleasing and thankfully breaks the wooded monotony. Inviting yet distant, Santal Massoïa trails away with frothy lactic notes and a green fruitiness, but always pulls back into familiarity with gourmand impressions of creamy desserts and scintillating florals.

This fragrance becomes a very elegant second skin that moulds with the wearer and additionally with the seasons. It smells clean and inviting, with it smelling dense in nature but not heavy. I wear this for quiet periods and nervous moments, as I closely project a welcoming and warm presence.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Non Blonde
Hermès stores stock the Hermèssence range exclusively
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

What’s your second skin fragrance?

-Liam

Hermès – Voyage en Ikat: Mini Movie

June 14, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Hi All,

Hermès, even the name conjures images of wealth and luxury. Now the designers at Hermès bring us a beautiful tablewear set inspired by the ancient art of Ikat.

Photo Stolen Hermès

From Hermès: Inspired by ikat, an exceptional weaving and dyeing technique originating in Asia, Voyage en Ikat celebrates intermingled uses and an ongoing dialogue between East and West. More than twenty hues centered on sapphire, ruby and emerald, are enhanced by 24-carat matte gold and come to life in designs composed ‘thread by thread’.

I hope you enjoy the under 2 minute mini movie of the Hermès inspirations for their new porcelain,

Portia xx

Australian Perfume Junkies

Olfactory Opinions from Oz

Hermes

Poivre Samarcande by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermes 2004

Poivre Samarcande by Hermès 2004

Poivre Samarcande by Jean-Claude Ellena

Soap: Let’s Talk Hoarding

Soap: Let’s Talk Hoarding

Friday Night Fragrance Choices: Cartier, CHANEL, Hermès, L’Occitane?

Friday Night Fragrance Choices

FUN!

FOODY!

OUTRAGEOUS!

FILM!

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2015

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li by Hermès 2015

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li by Jean-Claude Ellena

Kelly Calèche by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2007

Kelly Calèche by Hermès 2007

Kelly Calèche by Jean-Claude Ellena

Where Did My Scented Journey Begin….

Where Did My Scented Journey Begin

Brin de Reglisse by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermes 2004

Hiris by Olivia Giacobetti for Hermès 1999

Hiris by Olivia Giacobetti for Hermès 1999

Santal Massoïa by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2011

Santal Massoïa by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2011

Hermès – Voyage en Ikat: Mini Movie

Hermès – Voyage en Ikat