Arbolé Arbolé by Hiram Green 2016

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Foggy November Greetings APJ!

Perfume Excitement

As I mentioned in my last blog post, I prefer not l to write about anything that I don´t own. There are however exceptions to every rule. I had an email from Hiram Green of Hiram Green perfumes informing me that there was a sample of his new perfume on its way to me. His work is consistently excellent and I have enjoyed each fragrance. Yesterday I had a call from a perfumista friend I trust one hundred percent, raving on about Arbolé Arbolé. And then I read Claire Vukcevic´s post, of Take One Thing Off and APJ. Shifting into perfume excitement mode, I waited anxiously for the postman.

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Arbolé Arbolé by Hiram Green 2016

arbole-arbole-hiram-green-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean

…… with the grey arm of the wind wrapped around her waist

Arbolé, Arbolé takes its name from Frederico Garcia Lorca´s exquisite poem of the same name. It is new to me though written in 1955, and acutely expressive.
I wish I could read Spanish.

arbole-arbole-hiram-green-r-nial-bradshaw-girls-umbrella-wind-flight-flickrFlickr

Arbolé Arbolé is so impressive I am speechless, sat here with my head in my hands wondering what to write. My husband just yelled from the living room “nicht zerreden”. Which means don´t talk it to death. He also said to order a bottle. I have never smelled anything that is remotely similar. I have been wearing it for six hours now, longevity is great.

Hiram Green writes: “Arbolé Arbolé opens with a burst of earthy patchouli that slowly merges with dry cedar wood and velvety sandalwood. Vanilla and tonka bean anchor the fragrance and provide a sweet powdery base.” I guess he should know. Jump over to Hiram´s website and have a look.
Hiram Green are offering Arbolé Arbolé in a 10ml travel spray along with a full bottle AND what is particularly brilliant is that you can buy all of the HG perfumes in 10 ml travel sprays. Superb.

Our world has changed greatly since my last post. Political disaster encourages great music, so bring it on.
“Music is the emotional life of most people.” Leonard Cohen

Green Perfumed Bussis
CQ

PS. Hmmmmmm. A full bottle or 10mls, that is the question. I never order at night when the flesh is weak, tomorrow will tell. Watch this space!!

Arbolé Arbolé by Federico García Lorca, 1898 – 1936

Tree, tree
dry and green.

The girl with the pretty face
is out picking olives.
The wind, playboy of towers,
grabs her around the waist.
Four riders passed by
on Andalusian ponies,
with blue and green jackets
and big, dark capes.
“Come to Cordoba, muchacha.”
The girl won’t listen to them.
Three young bullfighters passed,
slender in the waist,
with jackets the color of oranges
and swords of ancient silver.
“Come to Sevilla, muchacha.”
The girl won’t listen to them.
When the afternoon had turned
dark brown, with scattered light,
a young man passed by, wearing
roses and myrtle of the moon.
“Come to Granada, muchacha.”
And the girl won’t listen to him.
The girl with the pretty face
keeps on picking olives
with the grey arm of the wind
wrapped around her waist.
Tree, tree
dry and green.

The Art and Olfaction Awards 2017: Submissions Open

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Post by Portia

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Heya All,

Basically I cut and pasted with only a few deviations from the Press release. Exciting nonetheless.
Portia x

The Art and Olfaction Awards 2017

Submissions Open

the-art-and-olfaction-awards-2017

The fourth annual Art and Olfaction Awards events will take place in Europe: Twenty-five shortlisted perfumes and projects will be flagged at Esxence in Milan (March 2017), and we will announce the five winners in a public ceremony in Berlin, on May 6, 2017.

Submissions for the awards are open to independent and artisan perfume brands, and experimental practitioners with scent from all countries. Submissions open on October 5th, 2016 at 9am (PST) and close on November 28th, 2016 at 11:59pm (PST).
In addition to this, we have expanded our panel of expert judges to better represent the global community we serve.

2017’s judges include:
Michael Edwards (UK/Australia), Luca Turin (Greece), Christophe Laudamiel (USA), Annick Le Guérer (France), Katie Puckrik (England), Mandy Aftel (USA), Sarah Horowitz-Thran (USA), Andy Tauer (Switzerland), Helder Suffenplan (Germany), Denyse Beaulieu (France), Mark Behnke (USA), Matthias Janke (Germany), Steven Gontarski (USA), Antonio Gardoni (Italy), Ashley Eden Kessler (USA), Bruno Fazzolari (USA), Dana El Masri (Canada), Harald Lubner (Germany), Sherri Sebastian (USA), Yvettra Grantham (USA), Ashraf Osman (Switzerland), Caro Verbeek (The Netherlands), Kaya Sorhaindo (Germany/USA), Kóan Jeff Baysa (USA), Matthias Tabert (USA), Simon Niedenthal (Sweden), with several more to be announced.

Learn more at Art and Olfaction Awards

Mark the Date Sydney: Perfume Expo October 2016

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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Hi APJ,

Be part of the revolution of natural fragrance, beauty and sensuality!
Join us for the very first Artisan Botanical Perfume Expo being held in Sydney 2016.

Australasian Artisan Botanical Perfume Expo October 2016

Our aim is to demonstrate that these divine gifts from Mother Nature are more than beautiful aromatic plants. They hold a life force of their own that when inhaled transport you to another place and time. This alone gives them amazing healing properties, in addition to the beautiful and captivating scents they hold.

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We are botanical perfumers from the southern hemisphere passionate about educating the world on the beauty of natural Botanical perfumes. Be part of the revolution of natural fragrance, beauty, sensuality, health and wellbeing.Our focus is Artisan Botanical Perfumery. We create truly beautiful and deeply evocative scents made with Mother Natures gifts and love. Every perfume has a story and is as unique as you.Using natural ingredients, essential oils and botanical extracts, we strive to give you the best botanical perfumes in the world.
Many of the essential oils and botanical extracts we use are from the most remote places in the world, grown and harvested under rigorous quality guidelines consistently preserving their finest essences. Let us not forget our distinctive and peerless Australian natives in some of the collections.
It’s going to be really fun and we’d love to see you there.
Suzanne R Banks

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Like our Facebook page to stay tuned for more info on the inaugural

Australasian Artisan Botanical Perfume Expo in Sydney, October 2016

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Check out my YouTube Channel too, thanks
Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

copyright suzanne

 

Revelation! My new book out now

Please check out my new book REVELATION! – Reveal Your Destiny with Essential Oils

Amazon USA      Amazon AU      Amazon UK

(Ed: Since this post was written the date has changed to October 2016. I have changed title and content to reflect this)

Everything’s Coming Up Russian Roses

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Post by Poodle

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Hey APJ,

I was recently sent a lovely box of samples from the 1st Festival of Indie Perfumery in Russia. The non-commercial event is creative exchange between Russian Perfumers and bloggers and reviewers who love perfume. It’s a way of sharing Russian Indie perfumery with the world and was organized by Anna Zworykina. Anna has been making perfume for more than 15 years and has published a book in Russian about natural perfumery. The theme of the event was “Rose and Water” and all the perfumes were created during a six week time period with that theme in mind. There were 18 perfumers who participated and the perfumes covered every aspect of the theme. Some were all natural, others natural and synthetic. It was interesting to sniff so many interpretations of roses and water. The perfumers really managed to show the versatility of roses.

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So I picked out my favourite five to highlight for you.

Everything’s Coming Up Russian Roses

Festival of Indie Perfumery in Russia 2015

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Pool by Anastasia Denisenkova.
Pool is a bright juicy rose perfume with Rose de Mai, Rose Otto, and Rosa Damascena. It’s highlighted with melon and ozonic notes and grounded with amber, musk, and oakmoss. Melon can be a difficult note for a lot of people but it really does help to give a watery feel to the perfume. Imagine rose petals floating on crystal blue water and you’ve got Pool.

Ophelia by Art of Perfume
This one is an herbal interpretation of roses and water. They could have called it noir if they wanted. It smells like the blackness of water in the moonlight. Walking along the bank there’s the crush of wormwood, lavender, and daisies underfoot, the brush of rose blossoms against you as you pass by. Resins and fir balsam add more darkness and earthiness. I love how this one reminded me of absinthe because of the wormwood.

Russian Roses Snow rose PixabayPixabay

Winter Rose by Anna Zworykina
The snow might be fluffy but this rose is not powdery at all. The rose’s scent is tempered by the snow. I can smell an almost citrusy sweetness. Although its called Winter Rose it’s not cold or metallic but warm and ambery. Starts cool and frosty but warms to a bouquet seen through Russian amber.

Rose Garden After the Rain byAnna Vtyurina
Think of the rosiest rose you’ve ever smelled. This is a big rose perfume. It opens with a bold citrus and rose. It’s juicy and watery, crisp and green. On me there’s a little tough of mintiness but it’s barely there so I could be mistaken. Remember when those bouquets of roses from the florists actually smelled like roses? This is that smell. The bouquet, the fern green filler, the water in the vase. Early summer bottled.

Russian Roses Marilyn_Monroe WikipediaWikiMedia

Marilyn’s Kiss by Galina Anni
This perfume isn’t as rosy as some of the others but was really fun to smell. There’s just enough mint to give it a watery feel along with some citrus. At the heart of it the rose blends with ylang-ylang and fruits. It’s sweet but not like a fruit punch. It’s creamier than that. It’s vanilla pudding with rose petals and buttery ylang-ylang. I didn’t expect to like this but the mint and ylang really make it work.

I’m so happy I got the opportunity to sample all the perfumes from this event. It was interesting to see how each perfumer approached the theme. I hope this will be the first of many such festivals.

Hugs
Poodle

Dirty Flower Factory by Kerosene 2014

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Post by Portia

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Hey APJ,

It’s been a while since I got my nose on any of ex perfume reviewer and self-taught perfumer John Pegg’s work. I have liked some of his stuff a lot and he is pretty damn handsome too, here’s a pic…

John Pegg KerosenePhoto Stolen Kerosene

Dirty Flower Factory by Kerosene 2014

Dirty Flower Factory by John Pegg

Dirty Flower Factory Kerosene FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Rose, jasmine, orange blossom, pink pepper, chili pepper, sandalwood, ambergris, musk

Dirty Flower Factory starts out smelling like a fabulously old school rose floral with a lovely green bite that could be the chili pepper, cool and hot simultaneously. It’s a fun, sizzling bunch of flowers that are pretty but more than pretty, they are fabulous. To my nose the Kerosene label has grown up. Dirty Flower Factory is a unisex rose that feels absolutely and utterly “Special Event” wear. Though I could imagine it being important day wear too but in my head it’s saying black tie. The bouquet is really tenacious and I get hours of this fab, fresh, alive smelling floral extravaganza.

As we dry down the rose, greenery and chili settle into some lightly animalic cream but still the sharp rose persists over all. Very nicely executed and totally wearable. The more I wear Dirty Flower Factory the more I think this would also work as a Sunday afternoon out in the sun too.

Dirty Flower Factory KerosenePhoto Stolen Kerosene

Further reading: Memory of Scent and The Silver Fox
IndieScents has $140/100ml and samples

Better yet, why don’t you try Dirty Flower Factory? See below…
Portia xx

giveaway kbairdPhoto Stolen kbaird

Dirty Flower Factory GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Dirty Flower Factory decant (about 3ml in a spritz)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell me your favourite Kerosene fragrance or Independent Perfumer.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: Dirty Flower Factory by Kerosene GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-4aT  

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 16th August 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 20th August 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Elektra by Ellen Covey for Olympic Orchids 2010

Hey hey APJ,

I hope life is treating you all well. You may know we have moved house and that we have been in the middle of a renovation for months. The kitchen man offered us a very nice benchtop in Caesar Stone that he had on the cheap because the colour is being discontinued. Well, he sent off the measurements, they ordered the stone and then found they needed another piece but there was NONE LEFT! Drama ensued and it’s already at the 5 week mark but fortunately the call came through and we are hoping with all out hearts that there will be benchtop in the very near future. Why am I telling you this? Well the move has brought to light some lovely forgotten treasures and I am loving finding them and spritzing.

Today’s offering got a bit lost in the excitement of my love for Olympic Amber, Ballets Rouges and Golden Cattleya but I have grabbed it out and spritzed with gay abandon.

Elektra by Ellen Covey for Olympic Orchids 2010

Elektra Olympic OrchidsPhoto Stolen Olympic Orchids

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Black currant, ripe fig, green fig leaves, amber

You may remember this fragrance as A Midsummer Day’s Dream, that’s how it was originally marketed but it didn’t fit on the new packaging so Ellen changed it. The juice in the bottle is exactly the same.

Sweet green but bitter-sweet green. Elektra is a high octane green fragrance that is so fabulously unusual and of itself that it’s hard to find a broad descriptive reference that can really apply. Forget every other fig or berry fragrance you have ever smelled because Elektra is nothing like any of them. Somehow Ellen Covey manages to create scents that are so far beyond my expectations and into the deep realms of fragrant art pieces. Yes, there are fig and black current but they are reimagined here as stark green and spiky sweets, like I am smelling what a crystaline Swarovski fig and black currant would smell like if you could go through the looking glass and smell the unsmellable.

Elektra Olympic Orchids Crystal Cave GeographPhoto Stolen GeographUK

Elektra does not smell earthly or earthy, it bypasses all your 21st century fruity expectations and lands in this otherworldly, weird and super saturated cyber garden. Could this be what Elphaba smells like? Can it be that Ellen Covey has discovered the scent of a green witch?

Actress Idina Menzel ofPhoto Stolen Flickr

One of the marvellous things about being an Independent Perfumer is that you get to experiment and build your dreams. It’s very easy to build my own fragrant dreams on Ellen Coveys beautiful fragrant gems because they are so magical, every drop a dreamers elixir.

Olympic Orchids has samples from only $3 and $65/30ml
Surrender To Chance has samples under the old name $4/ml

Are you an Ellen Covey convert yet? Which Olympic Orchids have you tried?
Portia xx

Jackal by Jacqueline Steele for Goest Perfumes 2012

Hey Independent Perfumery Lovers,

One of the things that makes Indie Perfumery stand out for me is their fabulous ability to ignore the mainstream, mass-tige and niche restraints by ruling bodies. If they want to put an overdose of some regulated ingredient then they damn well will. That opens up a world of fabulous ingredients that the rest of the fragrant world must skimp on or ignore. As you can tell I LOVE Independent perfumery……

Jackal by Goest Perfumes 2012

Jackal by Jacqueline Steele

jackal-goest-perfumesPhoto Stolen Goest Perfumes

From Surrender To Chance: Goest Perfumes is a Los Angeles-based artisan fragrance house. Perfumer-owner Jacqueline Steele creates fully handmade fragrances with an intuitive unisex aesthetic using only pure, essential, raw quality ingredients made especially for the sensual person wanting to enhance, rather than disguise, his or her persona.
Jackal’s effect is that of your own skin, only sexier. It wears very close to the skin and can easily enhance your other fragrances. It features notes of bitter chocolate, vanilla, patchouli, toasted tobacco and sweet smoke. It is a parfum.

I bought my Jackal sample today from Surrender To Chance and I grabbed a nice big spritz decant (pricey but well worth the spend). Resinous chocolate!! The first spritz is dark chocolate with a earthy, breathy, funky patchouli. Quite a big scent to start with and I’m surprised there’s no mention of birch, there is real darkness and depth and the patchouli is old school. The vanilla tempers the darkness of both patchouli and chocolate and round the fragrance out beautifully.

jackal-goest-perfumes Ryan Somma FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Here we smell a perfumer using essential oils but completely bypassing the often murky and dank natural creations for something luminous and nuanced but with a burning dark heart. I could imagine the Goth crews going apeshit for Jackal and filling their lightless clubland with its compellingly dark lustre. To be fair I could imagine this appealing across genres to a very wide audience; from hippies to hipsters, Dads and daughters, even office appropriate if you give it half an hour to burn off.

Jackal smells amazing up close and is quiet from a few steps away, interesting how they do that, longevity is really good for a natural too.

Further reading: Forties Wardrobe
Goest Perfumes has an excellent Sample Set 6 samples $22
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/.5ml

Portia xx

giveaway TheTruthAboutMummyPhoto Stolen TheTruthAboutMummy

Jackal by Goest Giveaway

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Jackal by Goest decant (about 1.5ml in a spritz)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us if you have tried Goest Perfumes yet? Do you have a fave Independent? Who are they and why?

Extra Chance?
Tweet:  Jackal by Goest GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-42D   @GoestPerfumes

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 28th June 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 2nd July 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Fume by Hans Hendley

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Post by Trésor

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I am a particularly ritualistic creature, the practice of taking the time to do something in that beautifully precise way has always fascinated me so deeply and afforded me a great sense of ease during moments of chaos and turmoil. An abating constant, a precious microcosm in which time seems to abandon its seemingly accelerated continuity and allows one a glorious moment to simply inhale in the midst of life’s often mercurial orbit. My most cherished ritual and the one which offers me the greatest pleasure is the one in which I partake before I lay my head to rest at night; applying my most treasured potions of beauty, writing in my journal and anointing myself with a fragrance to carry me gracefully into the arms of sleep. Most crucial though, is the final step, which as of late has has been dominated by the inimitable cimmerian beauty of a fiercely hypnotic brew masterfully composed by Brooklyn indie perfumer Hans Hendley. A fragrance by the name of …..

Fume by Hans Hendley

Fume Hans HendleyPhoto Stolen Hendley Perfumes

Hendley Perfumes give these featured accords in one line:
Conifer resins, smoked tea, galbanum, ruh khus, nagarmotha, oakmoss

Fume touches my soul. From the very first push of the atomizer, I am transported to a sylvan landscape bathed in hues of exquisite emerald and blackened by the sprawling shadows of towering conifers releasing their very essence into the atmosphere as if beckoned by hallowed incantations of the Earth goddess Gaia herself. Chanting in mellifluous harmony with these empyrean conifer resins is the umbral redolence of bonfire smoke, gossamer tendrils of which exist as zephyrs flowing through the undulating branches of this enchanted forest. Such incredible beauty, I wept.

Fume Hans Hendley Panel_Fonte_Gaia_Siena WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Leaves of luxuriant, smoky tea long act as harbinger to your fortune; weaving in effortless synchronicity with utterly haunting beauty Fume’s sonorous incipience. This is a fragrance which radiates like the gentle velvet glow of lambent embers, unfolding in subtle shifts much like the daylight bleeding into placid twilight. An amaranthine scythe of galbanum ricochets fractals of kaleidoscopic light into the onyx sky, a breathtaking aurora borealis to illuminate the glistening bed of luxuriant oakmoss and dulcet vetiver which lay below. I am so profoundly bewitched by this extraordinarily mesmeric sequence that I am at loss for sufficient words to describe just how enamored I am. It is here that my journey with Fume begins to reach its immaculate conclusion and I return to the tangible realm once again.

Northern LightsPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Fume wears as a delicately effulgent cloak of fragrance, celestially rich but deeply intimate, intensifying beautifully as one’s body heat begins to rise. I get a proper 8-10 hours of life from Fume, often catching pulchritudinous whispers of beguiling aroma when I wake the next morning. If you happen to be in the market for an indie perfume or simply looking to have your breath taken away I wholeheartedly urge you to get you hands on a sample of this truly remarkable composition, I know I’m smitten.

Hendley Perfumes has $64/15ml and samples

Until next time, my darlings.

Trésor xx

Ambre Vie by Christi Meshell for House of Matriarch 2012

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Post by FeralJasmine

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I love amber and there is probably no note that I wear more regularly. I have different ambers for different seasons, but I adore them all. I am considering adding Ambre Vie to my line-up and am weighing my decision and seeking enablement.

Ambre Vie by Christi Meshell for House of Matriarch 2012

Ambre Vie: Soft Amber Waves

Ambre Vie House of Matriarch FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Ambreine (labdanum), resins, mimosa petals, davana (artemisia), costus, amber, natural musk

Ambre Vie is an all-natural vanillic amber. It’s beautifully smooth and opens with a soft wave of spices and mimosa, but nothing dramatic. From the moment of spraying it smells somehow “settled,” as if it has melded with skin. I find it very hard to differentiate the various spice notes from one another. The labdanum is smooth and supple. The vanilla is there from the beginning, but it is soft and low-key and serves just to round out the amber. There is a dessert-wine, Tokai-like note which is probably the balsamic note referred to on Fragrantica. There are soft sweet powdery undertones, which I love in amber perfumes. On me it’s very soft and work-appropriate. Over the course of an hour the winey and mimosa notes disappear and the powder is a little more pronounced, but other than that it’s pretty linear. The remarks on House of Matriarch’s website refer to the drydown “becoming mysteriously stronger with time,” and all I can say is, not on me. It’s a skin scent within 90 minutes and gone at the two-hour mark.

Ambre Vie House of Matriarch Yellow_dragon jar Wikipedia)Photo Stolen Wikipedia

A commenter on Fragrantica calls it a “reference amber” and I agree with this. It’s like your perfect pound cake recipe that, while not being in any way unusual, is always delicious and never lets you down. Another Fragrantica commenter, Deadidol, says “Like its closest analog, HdP’s Ambre 114, this scent utilizes more than 100 materials to achieve its effect, yet the result is largely free from bombast. There’s musk lurking beneath, but it merges with the buttery tones of the base to keep from announcing itself too loudly. Similarly, soft, smoky notes appear alongside what seems to be clove, but these notes never get close enough the surface for full recognition.”

When I dream of the perfect workhorse amber perfume to suit all occasions and seasons and never call unwanted attention to itself (while inviting the wanted kind!), it’s pretty much like Ambre Vie. I wish it were more intense and lasted longer, and if it did, I wouldn’t be deliberating, I would be buying. I suspect that this is unique to my perfume-eating skin, because commenters have reported that it does last several hours on them. But ultimately I will almost surely buy a bottle because it is so very pretty, so well-made, and so right.

SONY DSCPhoto Stolen SteamRadio

Further reading: hausofwaft
House of Matriarch starts from $24/3.3ml

Speak to me of amber! What are your favorite perfumes based on this lovely note?
FeralJasmine x

Tobacco Rose by Liz Moores for Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2014

Hi there Fumies,

Yes, I’ve read OODLES about the Tobacco Rose experience, and my mate Karen Gilbert had brought me a sample in 2014 while she was in Sydney. Yes I fell deeply and madly in love with it and I REALLY want a bottle. What I did instead was buy a decant from a split, it’s nearly empty and I think I’m going to need a LOT more Tobacco Rose….

Tobacco Rose by Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2014

Tobacco Rose by Liz Moores

Tobacco Rose Papillon Artisan Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bulgarian rose, rose de mai, oakmoss, ambergris, beeswax, Peru balsam

When I read the notes list I got in touch with Karen Gilbert to ask if they were all mad, she told me there was in fact NO tobacco in Tobacco Rose. Of course I didn’t believe her so I wrote to Liz Moores and asked her, she said I could quote her response so here it is in full:

Karen is such a star! You’re absolutely right, there’s no tobacco in tobacco rose. I used hay absolute, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli and vetiver to give the impression of tobacco. Tobacco absolute is fabulous stuff but I found it stamped all over the rose. Hay is very tobacco-like but much softer and I liked the way it interacted with the Bulgarian rose and rose de Mai. Thank you so much for your kind wishes. It means a lot. xxxx Liz Moores

Can I just say that even if the fragrance smelled like shit from the nether hells I would still try my darndest to like it because that is the best answer ever. I’m severely crushing on Liz Moores for taking the time to write, and write so nicely and concisely and with heart. Fan made forever (Unless she does some freaking ghastly shit, obviously)

Tobacco Rose Liz-Moores PapillonPhoto Stolen Papillon

How does it smell? Like slightly jaded big fast roses that have been cut for the house and now they are overblown and losing their petals, I smell sweet jam and pooh, resins and above all the gloriously disarming fragrance if the Queen of flowers, the rose. So YUMMY! Tobacco Rose smells  like chintz look, do you remember those huge comfy chintz lounges through the 1980s in the cottage look houses. A few of my friends families had them and they always seemed so welcoming.

This is a fragrance with movement, story and flow. The honeyed sweetness with the labdanum smells animal to me and I get a whiff of pipe smoke too. I think the thing that you all get as hay doesn’t smell like that to me, if what I’m thinking is correct. It smells kind of boozy to me. Dunno, but Tobacco rose smells great right to the slightly bitter end.

Tobacco Rose Papillon just joey rose Geoff Penaluna FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and I Scent You A Day
LuckyScent has $160/50ml
First In Fragrance has €135/50ml

Have you tried the Papillon fragrances yet? Is there a standout for you?
Portia xx