Tobacco Rose by Liz Moores for Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2014

Hi there Fumies,

Yes, I’ve read OODLES about the Tobacco Rose experience, and my mate Karen Gilbert had brought me a sample in 2014 while she was in Sydney. Yes I fell deeply and madly in love with it and I REALLY want a bottle. What I did instead was buy a decant from a split, it’s nearly empty and I think I’m going to need a LOT more Tobacco Rose….

Tobacco Rose by Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2014

Tobacco Rose by Liz Moores

Tobacco Rose Papillon Artisan Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bulgarian rose, rose de mai, oakmoss, ambergris, beeswax, Peru balsam

When I read the notes list I got in touch with Karen Gilbert to ask if they were all mad, she told me there was in fact NO tobacco in Tobacco Rose. Of course I didn’t believe her so I wrote to Liz Moores and asked her, she said I could quote her response so here it is in full:

Karen is such a star! You’re absolutely right, there’s no tobacco in tobacco rose. I used hay absolute, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli and vetiver to give the impression of tobacco. Tobacco absolute is fabulous stuff but I found it stamped all over the rose. Hay is very tobacco-like but much softer and I liked the way it interacted with the Bulgarian rose and rose de Mai. Thank you so much for your kind wishes. It means a lot. xxxx Liz Moores

Can I just say that even if the fragrance smelled like shit from the nether hells I would still try my darndest to like it because that is the best answer ever. I’m severely crushing on Liz Moores for taking the time to write, and write so nicely and concisely and with heart. Fan made forever (Unless she does some freaking ghastly shit, obviously)

Tobacco Rose Liz-Moores PapillonPhoto Stolen Papillon

How does it smell? Like slightly jaded big fast roses that have been cut for the house and now they are overblown and losing their petals, I smell sweet jam and pooh, resins and above all the gloriously disarming fragrance if the Queen of flowers, the rose. So YUMMY! Tobacco Rose smells  like chintz look, do you remember those huge comfy chintz lounges through the 1980s in the cottage look houses. A few of my friends families had them and they always seemed so welcoming.

This is a fragrance with movement, story and flow. The honeyed sweetness with the labdanum smells animal to me and I get a whiff of pipe smoke too. I think the thing that you all get as hay doesn’t smell like that to me, if what I’m thinking is correct. It smells kind of boozy to me. Dunno, but Tobacco rose smells great right to the slightly bitter end.

Tobacco Rose Papillon just joey rose Geoff Penaluna FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and I Scent You A Day
LuckyScent has $160/50ml
First In Fragrance has €135/50ml

Have you tried the Papillon fragrances yet? Is there a standout for you?
Portia xx

15 thoughts on “Tobacco Rose by Liz Moores for Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2014

  1. Liz Moores sounds so cool. I love it when folks in the industry are so warm and approachable. I would definitely do my best to like whatever they come up with. I seriously bought Andy Tauer’s Vanilla Flash as soon as it came out even though I suspected it would not be for me just cuz I love the guy.

    I haven’t tried this yet, although I do have samples of the whole line. Can you guess where they are?

    I actually agree with you regarding your perception of what hay smells like. It’s kind of fermenty. Then again, I associate hay with what’s mucked about with other stuff in a stable.


    • Right Holly,
      A well spent youth on horse studs will give you a very different idea of the smell of hay.
      So glad you enjoyed the post, now please go find those samples and try them,
      Portia xx


  2. Hi Portia,
    Smells like chintz looks? I love that. Your description reminds me of what chintz actually smells lke. My chintz experiences go back to the 1950s. People were decorating with chintz in the 40s and there were curtains, aprons, couches, yards goods, all kinds of things still around when I was a child. New chintz, in the form of polished cotton, had a distinctive odor in those days. I would recognize it even today but can’t describe it.
    Azar xx


    • Aha Azar,
      That is really interesting. There was a chintz revival late 70s and into the 80s around our friends. I can’t remember how it smelled fresh though because Mum went from the newlywed stripy orange and brown set to leather.
      Portia xx


  3. I remember trying the Papillons in London in a hyperventilating excitement…I was impressed by the depth and quality of all of them. My favourite was Anubis because the notes were so mysterious.
    If I had samples I could spend more time with them though.


  4. Hi Portia,

    Thanks for the link to my site! What a great review you have written. I’m a fan of everything on this page: you, Tobacco Rose and dear Liz Moores. She has been nothing but lovely with me, a humble blogger, and she has my loyalty for life.

    Her new fragrance, White Moth, is out next year and I can’t imagine it being anything but incredible. It’s rumoured to have Tiare Flower (Liz says it’s v v high quality), so I’m really looking forward to it. From the initial trio of Anubis, Angelique, and Tobacco Rose, it’s hard to pick a favourite. I know I’m gushing here, but the longevity of Tobacco Rose was around fourteen hours on me- which usually only happens with Tauers.

    love the review
    Sam xxxxx


    • Hey there Sam,
      YAY!! I got to link your page. I love linking my mates, it makes it feel extra family.
      WOW! Fourteen hours from a fragrance is seriously impressive. Yes Liz Moores has been gorgeous to deal with the very few times I have been in touch. Val the Cookie Queen likes her too, and that is a HIGH recommendation in my books.
      Portia xx


  5. Lovely review of a fave of mine Portia. I love full, deep roses with a dark side and this one is perfection. I don’t get hay either but Vanessa gets lots of it.
    Liz is fantastic and I’m proud to call her my friend. We’ll have so much fun all together when you come to London next year.


    • SANDRA!!!! No blind buying for no regrets. Naughty. Order some samples please.
      Thanks for the compliment though.
      Portia xx


  6. “This is a fragrance with movement, story and flow.”

    I couldn’t agree more! Beautifully expressed.

    My favourite of her works is Anubis, one of the most beautiful smoky leather fragrances I have ever had the pleasure of wearing.


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