Jocelyn Fullerton: Cult Of Scent Afternoon


Post by Portia


Hi Independent Perfume Lovers,

Cult Of Scent is becoming quite the Independent Perfume Lovers rallying point here in Australia. Unusual, flirty, intoxicating, raw, surprising, mischievous, flattering, elegant and amazing are all words my friends and I have used to describe the work of Jocelyn Fullerton, nose and creator of Cult Of Scent. Hedonist is the only one I’ve reviewed on APJ yet but there are a couple more that I have been sampling and adore.

Jocelyn Fullerton: A Cult Of Scent Afternoon

Learn The Range With The Perfumer

Jocelyn Fullerton A Cult Of Scent
Imagine the chance to be walked through the Cult Of Scent range by the woman who created the fragrances. We will be treated to some of the major component parts of the fragrances and some of the fillers, hear Jocelyn’s story behind each creation, how she arrived at her finished product and get to know a lot more about the process of creating fragrance. We will also hear about Jocelyn’s trajectory from regular person to perfumer and be given insight into that path.

I, Portia, will be providing a lunch of sandwiches, fruit and cakes. There will be champagne punch on arrival and tea/coffee/water available throughout.

We have a maximum number of 12 guests so I would urge you to book as early as possible.

Where: Portia’s apartment in Parramatta
When: Saturday March 19 2016 11.30am arrive for a 12 noon sharp start -3pm
Cost: FREE

Please leave your name and phone details in the Contact Form. First 12 in get the seats.

Can’t wait to see you guys.
It will be our first event after arriving home from Europe and it will be a lovely fragrant housewarming too.
Please come.
Portia xx



Dark Horse by Dame Perfumery Scottsdale 2015


Post by Erica Golding


Scented greetings to my kindred spirits!

Today I am sparkling in a haze of friendly, approachable confidence. I feel bright and serene, energetic and focused. This is because today I chose to spritz my sample of:

Dark Horse by Dame Perfumery Scottsdale 2015

Dark Horse Dame Perfumery Scottsdale FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, cinnamon
Heart: Jasmine, carnation, rose, cloves
Base: Guaiac wood, vetiver, vanilla and musk

This fragrance is loosely marketed with an air of masculinity, but as with all of Jeffrey’s Artist Collection offerings, Dark Horse can be effortlessly worn by all genders.

I am enamored with this surprising juxtaposition of two scents I normally enjoy only as accents: citrus and spice. They are both finely tuned and harmonized with careful attention. The solar tone features fine shimmering bergamot, sun-ripened lemon, and warm vetiver. The spice is composed of cinnamon and clove (and I suspect nutmeg too), but they are not loud, sharp, or overpowering as they often are in perfumery. The spices are soft and subtle, caressing your skin and your spirit.

Dark Horse Dame Perfumery Scottsdale ArtworkPhoto Stolen Dame Perfumery Scottsdale

The modern elegance and attractiveness of Dark Horse is centered within its personality. This EdP is easygoing and laid back, but cleanly put together. Brilliant, cheerful, and living in the moment – this is the Dark Horse wearer.

Dame Perfumery Scottsdale says: A scent full of raw charisma; quite unpredictable and completely charming. Animal magnetism at its best. Smooth, balanced and …

Further reading: Looking Feeling Smelling Great
Dame Perfumery Scottsdale has samples $10/7ml, bottles $65/50ml

Have you tried Dark Horse? How about New Musk Man/New Musk Oil (next on my list of must-try)? I’d love to hear your experiences with Dame Perfumery fragrance!

Love and light,

Fundamental by Ermano Picco + Cristiano Canali for Rubini 2015


Post by Poodle


Fundamental is a new release by the Italian perfume house Rubini. I’d happily sniff the hubby if he was wearing this and it would be a great autumn scent for me too, snuggling with a drink by the fire.

Fundamental by Rubini 2015

Fundamental by Ermano Picco and Cristiano Canali

Fundamental Rubini FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Calabrian bergamot, tangerine, flowers
Heart: Grapes, iris, beeswax
Base: Cedar, sandalwood, Java vetiver oil, leather

Fundamental reminds me of a classic men’s fragrance although any woman who likes perfumes that aren’t all flowers, fruit, and sugar could wear this.  This is a classy fragrance that makes me think of a business man in a fine suit or expensive jeans and a crisp white shirt.  I also tend to think “old money” when I smell it.  This isn’t the scent of the man working for the vineyard it’s the scent of the man who owns it, or perhaps his family does.

I imagine driving past the vineyards on a cool autumn day with an extremely handsome man in a fine Italian car with leather and wood accents.  The sun is low in the sky and the leaves are bathed in a golden glow.  We’re heading up to his estate just over there on the hillside, to sip some wine and watch the sun set over the vineyard.

Fundamental Rubini  Alfa Romeo Brendan Lally FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

My initial impression after spraying was that this was going to be a citrus heavy scent.  I found it to be sharp at first and perhaps it was my fault for just sticking my nose right in.  Some scents need a little room to move at first.  Happily the sharp citrus note didn’t last but a minute or two and soon it was morphing into a lovely wood and fruit blend.  Even though it starts off bold I found it settled down to a respectable sillage rather quickly.  The grape note is there but it’s not that artificial grape of candy nor is it quite the alcoholic note of wine.  It reminds me of grapes warmed by the sun that have been on the vine a bit too long.

Fundamental Rubini Botrytis Cinerea WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

There’s a honeyed sweetness which simmers just below the surface but I have a hard time calling this a sweet scent.  It’s always tempered by the woods.  Vetiver and leather are noticeable and the leather is smooth and well worn.  As I wear it I find the scent changes from its soft fruity side to its more serious woody side throughout the duration.  I get a retro feel from it most likely from the powdery iris note and the leather but maybe it’s the velvet accord?  In the end I’m left with mostly woody notes.  Overall I find it to be well done and wearable.

Longevity is good on me which means it’s probably long lasting on the rest of the world.  You may want to test before buying since I think Fundamental will wear differently on everyone.

Further reading: Colognoisseur and Persefume
First In Fragrance has €135/50ml
Surrender To Chance has $4.40/.5ml

What scents do you think of as classic men’s fragrances and why?


Fume by Hans Hendley


Post by Trésor


I am a particularly ritualistic creature, the practice of taking the time to do something in that beautifully precise way has always fascinated me so deeply and afforded me a great sense of ease during moments of chaos and turmoil. An abating constant, a precious microcosm in which time seems to abandon its seemingly accelerated continuity and allows one a glorious moment to simply inhale in the midst of life’s often mercurial orbit. My most cherished ritual and the one which offers me the greatest pleasure is the one in which I partake before I lay my head to rest at night; applying my most treasured potions of beauty, writing in my journal and anointing myself with a fragrance to carry me gracefully into the arms of sleep. Most crucial though, is the final step, which as of late has has been dominated by the inimitable cimmerian beauty of a fiercely hypnotic brew masterfully composed by Brooklyn indie perfumer Hans Hendley. A fragrance by the name of …..

Fume by Hans Hendley

Fume Hans HendleyPhoto Stolen Hendley Perfumes

Hendley Perfumes give these featured accords in one line:
Conifer resins, smoked tea, galbanum, ruh khus, nagarmotha, oakmoss

Fume touches my soul. From the very first push of the atomizer, I am transported to a sylvan landscape bathed in hues of exquisite emerald and blackened by the sprawling shadows of towering conifers releasing their very essence into the atmosphere as if beckoned by hallowed incantations of the Earth goddess Gaia herself. Chanting in mellifluous harmony with these empyrean conifer resins is the umbral redolence of bonfire smoke, gossamer tendrils of which exist as zephyrs flowing through the undulating branches of this enchanted forest. Such incredible beauty, I wept.

Fume Hans Hendley Panel_Fonte_Gaia_Siena WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Leaves of luxuriant, smoky tea long act as harbinger to your fortune; weaving in effortless synchronicity with utterly haunting beauty Fume’s sonorous incipience. This is a fragrance which radiates like the gentle velvet glow of lambent embers, unfolding in subtle shifts much like the daylight bleeding into placid twilight. An amaranthine scythe of galbanum ricochets fractals of kaleidoscopic light into the onyx sky, a breathtaking aurora borealis to illuminate the glistening bed of luxuriant oakmoss and dulcet vetiver which lay below. I am so profoundly bewitched by this extraordinarily mesmeric sequence that I am at loss for sufficient words to describe just how enamored I am. It is here that my journey with Fume begins to reach its immaculate conclusion and I return to the tangible realm once again.

Northern LightsPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Fume wears as a delicately effulgent cloak of fragrance, celestially rich but deeply intimate, intensifying beautifully as one’s body heat begins to rise. I get a proper 8-10 hours of life from Fume, often catching pulchritudinous whispers of beguiling aroma when I wake the next morning. If you happen to be in the market for an indie perfume or simply looking to have your breath taken away I wholeheartedly urge you to get you hands on a sample of this truly remarkable composition, I know I’m smitten.

Hendley Perfumes has $64/15ml and samples

Until next time, my darlings.

Trésor xx

Tobacco Rose by Liz Moores for Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2014

Hi there Fumies,

Yes, I’ve read OODLES about the Tobacco Rose experience, and my mate Karen Gilbert had brought me a sample in 2014 while she was in Sydney. Yes I fell deeply and madly in love with it and I REALLY want a bottle. What I did instead was buy a decant from a split, it’s nearly empty and I think I’m going to need a LOT more Tobacco Rose….

Tobacco Rose by Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2014

Tobacco Rose by Liz Moores

Tobacco Rose Papillon Artisan Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bulgarian rose, rose de mai, oakmoss, ambergris, beeswax, Peru balsam

When I read the notes list I got in touch with Karen Gilbert to ask if they were all mad, she told me there was in fact NO tobacco in Tobacco Rose. Of course I didn’t believe her so I wrote to Liz Moores and asked her, she said I could quote her response so here it is in full:

Karen is such a star! You’re absolutely right, there’s no tobacco in tobacco rose. I used hay absolute, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli and vetiver to give the impression of tobacco. Tobacco absolute is fabulous stuff but I found it stamped all over the rose. Hay is very tobacco-like but much softer and I liked the way it interacted with the Bulgarian rose and rose de Mai. Thank you so much for your kind wishes. It means a lot. xxxx Liz Moores

Can I just say that even if the fragrance smelled like shit from the nether hells I would still try my darndest to like it because that is the best answer ever. I’m severely crushing on Liz Moores for taking the time to write, and write so nicely and concisely and with heart. Fan made forever (Unless she does some freaking ghastly shit, obviously)

Tobacco Rose Liz-Moores PapillonPhoto Stolen Papillon

How does it smell? Like slightly jaded big fast roses that have been cut for the house and now they are overblown and losing their petals, I smell sweet jam and pooh, resins and above all the gloriously disarming fragrance if the Queen of flowers, the rose. So YUMMY! Tobacco Rose smells  like chintz look, do you remember those huge comfy chintz lounges through the 1980s in the cottage look houses. A few of my friends families had them and they always seemed so welcoming.

This is a fragrance with movement, story and flow. The honeyed sweetness with the labdanum smells animal to me and I get a whiff of pipe smoke too. I think the thing that you all get as hay doesn’t smell like that to me, if what I’m thinking is correct. It smells kind of boozy to me. Dunno, but Tobacco rose smells great right to the slightly bitter end.

Tobacco Rose Papillon just joey rose Geoff Penaluna FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and I Scent You A Day
LuckyScent has $160/50ml
First In Fragrance has €135/50ml

Have you tried the Papillon fragrances yet? Is there a standout for you?
Portia xx

Tuberose Diabolique Perfume Oil by Ava Luxe

Hello Fragrant Fumies,

As spring hits the Northern Hemisphere properly I thought it time to look at one of my personal favourite tuberose fragrances. I have drained a bottle of the parfum and now I’m wearing the oil.

tuberose-diabolique-ava-luxe peacock Ava LuxePhoto Stolen Ava Luxe

The Ava Luxe website has this to say:
A French legend of tuberose warns young girls not to breathe in its intoxicating fragrance after dark for fear that it would put them in an amorous mood. we, on the other hand, would encourage you to wear this tuberose fragrance after dark (or anytime) with wild abandon.

Tuberose Diabolique Perfume Oil by Ava Luxe

Tuberose Diabolique by Serena Ava Franco

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Indian tuberose, wild gardenia, Egyptian tuberose, amber, spice, white carnation, bitter orange

Tuberose Diabolique opens with a lush tropical miasma so thick and treacle-ish that you feel like you must wade through the scent to get across the room. In the oil I find a muted, softer scent. The projection is much less pronounced but the silage is still excelent. Here we have a greener tuberose with little of the parfums outrageous overbearing demeanor. Don’t misunderstand me, you are still extremely fragrant and into its heart the whole fragrance warms and does become bequiling. A buttery green-ness very like having a vase of tuberose slowly dying in your home, the heady and wondrous death of tuberose. GORGEOUS!

I get a lovely helping of amber but the crispness of carnation and the sizzle of citrus and spice are blended beyond my ability to really smell them other than by note list reading.

Photo Stolen AusGardener

Spraying Tuberose Diabolique is making a statement. Though the oil is not as enormous as the parfum it is still big and heady. If you need something to help you take charge, or to fuddle the oppositions brains, then I think this could be the necessary fragrance for you. Should you wish to take an hour out of your life I suggest rubbing a fair amount into your chest and arms, grab yourself a cuppa, put some music on and let yourself go. Completely and utterly lose yourself in a sensual sense overload that is completely and utterly selfish.

tuberose-diabolique-ava-luxe coffee geralt Pixabay jpgPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Where would Tuberose Diabolique be wearable? Outdoor activities, shopping, cleaning, bed if you’re lucky enough to have one to yourself or if you are after raunchy sex acts, washing day, al fresco dinning, the beach, anywhere that you are not enclosed for the first hour.

Do I like Tuberose Diabolique in the oil form? YES!!!

The Ava Luxe site has 5ml Perfume Oil $25 & 5ml Parfum Extrait $27.

Do you have an oil that you also have in another form? Which do you wear most?
Till tomorrow we wish you enough wealth, good health and enough sense to be happy with those 2.
Portia xx

Hedonist by Cult of Scent

Heya Perfume Junkies,

I have a small sample of Hedonist. There is no note list online and the brand is so fledgeling that I can’t even find a website for it. There is a Cult of Scent Facebook Page but it doesn’t have a price list, just some beautiful pictures, a couple of meetups and some fragrant knowledge exchange. I don’t even have a picture of the bottle for you all. To be perfectly honest I did not even purchase these scents, my mate Casssandra gave me some tiny test samples that I have put into spritzers.

Hedonist by Cult of Scent

Cult Of Scent

So I do know that Jocelyn is the perfumer though I’m yet to meet her, she is a Sydney based perfumer and very pretty. I spent some time in the delicious citrus/white flower/green extravaganza that is Cult of Scent’s Magnolia ’13 a while ago and loved it sick.

So Hedonist, it opens slightly citrus and balmy but what immediately knocks on my olfactory door is leather. Slightly tar-ish, smoky, woodsy leather. New leather before it’s been made into its final product, the act of walking into a leather shop and being greeted by hundreds of skins in their multi-hued entirety. Hedonist is not big but it does have a fairly ferocious opening on my skin. More Lonestar Memories than Cuir d’Ange if you know what I mean, but not really like Lonestar Memories at all. Michael Borg just told me that the hefty darkness is probably oud assisted, now that he mentions it I tend to agree.

Hedonist Cult of scent VIC_River_Downs WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Hedonist is a bitter brew yet behind it I smell softness, a creamy something, a white flower. Michael says it’s the tiare flower, he could be correct, I am just going to say creamy white flowers and maybe some lactonic fruit like fig. No matter what it is the smell is beautiful, exquisite, both hefty and during the heart also pleasantly sheer. Wearable to most occasions where people are happy to have you scented, and not overpowering enough to preclude it from dining or the movies. Very wearable.

Hedonist Cult of scent book BonnyBBX PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

The Middle East? A little tease of an introduction to it, yes. A soft core, wearable beauty. Hedonist? Not nearly as overblown or outrageous as I was expecting though towards dry down it does become quite animal and lived in but so soft that it could really be you, just warmer and sexier. GGGGRRROWLL

What fragrance would you call your Hedonist fragrance? For me I think Songes by Annick Goutal, Guerlain’s Shalimar and Parfum de Maroc by Aftelier. These hold something big, overblown and indulgent. What’s yours?
Portia x