Indie Perfumes

DSH Perfumes: Fleuriste and Deco Diamonds

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Post by Portia

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Hey Fumie family,

This was supposed to be a post about DSH Perfumes newest release Chinchilla. It’s a fabulous reimagining of the grand palace hotel style clientele’s fragrances. Sexy, cozy and full. I’ve been wearing my sample on & off over the week and it’s gorgeous, there was exactly enough left to do my review but do you think I can find the bloody sample? NO! GRRR! Hopefully it will turn up and I can finish my review another time……

So, I have had these two babies in mind to review. They are not Dawn’s newest but they are definitely worth a sniff.

ALSO….. Dawn wrote me: I’ve also been working on a new website overhaul for months and it’s now ramping up as I want to have it complete by the end of October if at all possible.)  So my Autumn launches are coming a bit late while I work on the site stuff, too.  With the new site, though, international order will be possible for almost all of the scents ( in voile format). Woo hoo! Anyway, Chinchilla, Axis Mundi, and Souvenir de Malmaison are all coming…..

DSH Perfumes: Fleuriste 2015

fleuriste-dsh_perfumesDSH Perfumes

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Bergamot, carnation, jasmine, green leaves, spicy notes, ambergris

Sharp green broken leaves with a spicy clove-heavy carnation opens Fleuriste. The broken leaves are mixed with fresh cut twiggy ends of branches, it’s that particular green smell of cutting camellias for the house, bitter and dry like the first sip of cold, unsugared black tea. If you like your fragrances super green, if CHANEL No 19 feels like a soft pussy and Futur by Robert Piguet smells too pretty then this could be the green for you.

Fleuriste is a dry, dark green that only slowly softens and expands during its late heart and through the dry down. Never losing it’s crisp cool spiciness but softening and yielding to the warmth of your skin it becomes more approachable and even at the last gasp cozy.  Fleuriste is a joy to wear and so far removed from anything available in stores, dawn constantly reminds me why we need independent perfumers, this is where the fun is in fragrance nowadays.

DSH Perfumes: Deco Diamonds 2014

deco-diamonds-dsh-perfumesDSH Perfumes

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Hyrax, aldehydes, ambergris, Australian sandalwood, oakmoss, civet, galbanum, gardenia, jasmine, honeysuckle, neroli, lily-of-the-valley, peach, jasmine sambac, tuberose

Aldehydes and galbanum create a plush and creamy opening that smells rich, warm and thick. The white flowers sparkle around the perimeter softly until the completely engulf the green. I am reminded of vintage VC&A First parfum in Deco Diamonds thrilling intensity. Underneath the glamorous shimmering is a resting big cat, the Cartier panther.

Through the heart Deco Diamonds becomes sheer and radiant, still fully fragrant but there is air between the notes, they become filled with luminous light that lifts the whole scent. I can’t pick notes at this point, it’s a creamy white floral but diffuse, like smelling the dry down of some of the big 1980s blockbuster chypre perfumes the next morning on a scarf. A whisper of luxurious living, magic.

DSH Perfumes has both these beauties from $6

Which one sounds like something you might like to try?
Portia xx

Dua Fragrances

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Post by Erica Golding

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Hello, all of you fragrance-frenzied fanatics!

Today, I’m pumped to dive into a fresh new fragrance house. Dua Fragrances are crafted and sold in the US, using accords and concentrates made in Dubai from globally sourced raw materials. Some of their creations are influenced by other popular niche or mainstream scents, while others are inspired organically. All the ones that I have tried so far turned out to be unique, attractive fragrances that stand out on their own merit.

Dua Fragrances

Totally shocked to win a generous giveaway from Dua after being curious in their line for the last few weeks because I have been building an Arabic perfume sub-section in my collection, so these beauties are right up my alley! I’ve been so curious that I purchased several extras to travel with my much-appreciated prize. Here are mini reviews of three of my Dua parfum extracts.

Dua Fragrances Erica GoldingPhoto Courtesy Erica Golding

Hypnotic Santalum

NOTES: Sandalwood, Oud, Leather, Cinnamon, Neroli, Amber, Rose

Leather and oudh leap forth at the opening on my skin. The combination is focused, rich yet refined. Neroli and rose enter gradually, luxurious blossoms that add grace and a high-end edge. As the cinnamon, amber, and sandalwood warm up, the aroma begins to sweeten and the overall fragrance up shifts into addictive territory. Cinnamon often drags an imaginary apple note along in my mind due to scent association, a delicious effect that saturates my senses with pleasure.

Bois Oudh Dua FragrancesDua Fragrances

Bois Oudh

NOTES: Tonka Bean, Cardamom, Amber, Teak Wood, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Agarwood (Oud)

My favorite so far! The scent starts out subtle and the agarwood is just the right hint of rubber (in a good way) without being pungent or overwhelming. Sandalwood glows warm and smooth and familiar, giving a gorgeous tone. Accents of cardamom and amber impart a magnetic complexity. Later in the drydown, the hay-honey tonka bean sings.
The aroma isn’t particularly intense, which I was braced for, but was rather a very smooth, harmonious blend that left me huffing my wrists and wanting more. The scent is passionate without being overbearing. It won’t impress those looking for an aggressive nuclear bomb of scent, but it’s an exceptionally pleasing composition.

Mukhallat

NOTES: Orange Blossom, Amber, Rose, Jasmine, Resins, Musk, Oud

Oudh comes out first, leathery and confident. Classic floral notes add lift and harmony to the scent, with rose at the forefront of the bouquet. Creamy woody amber and furry musk smooth the base, a luxurious impression. On my skin, the drydown is dominated by tea rose.
Overall, Mulhallat is a classic Arabian perfume, along the lines of Ghroob and Kashkha (though a distinctly unique creation).

I’ve had a blast exploring these affordably priced delights. I admit I’m hooked, and I’m plotting what to try next. I hope they have the bandwidth to start offering samples soon, I know they plan to and just can’t yet handle that work stream as they’re firing up this new venture.

Dua Fragrances $45-$50/30ml

Have you gotten into Dua Fragrances yet? Did you already miss out on one of their LEs (goddammit Vanilla Lemon Gelato, why have you forsaken me)? What new perfume house have you recently discovered; or, perhaps you’ve excavated a line that’s just new-to-you?

Until next time, stay fragrant and have fun sniffing!

-Erica

Bohemia EdP by Liz Cook for One Seed

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Hey there Indie Perfume Lovers,

Just so you know ONE SEED is having a Gift With Purchase till Sunday 8/9/13 Australian EST

one seed text logo

spring flowers(plus 2 free samples of your choice with every order over $50 this week only)

In Australia we are gaining quite a perfume creation culture, one of my favourites is Liz Cook’s One Seed who also fly the 100% All Natural flag. Though I am not swayed by whether something is natural or created I know many of you are. There is something deep and real about good natural perfume that is so different from a lot of the fragrances we deal with on a regular basis that they are an acquired taste. Remember your first Serge Lutens after years of Elizabeth Arden or even mainstream CHANEL? It was quite a revelation and for many it took a while to recalibrate to this artistic and a little outrageous perfume ideal.

Bohemia EdP by Liz Cook for One Seed

bohemia One SeedPhoto Stolen One Seed

Top: Blood orange, pink grapefruit
Heart: Jasmine, apricot, rose
Base: Cocoa, tonka, black tea, amber accord, vanilla

From One Seed site: Both broody & playful; a bitter-sweet composition of alluring amber, smoked tea & dark chocolate set against luscious blood orange & vanilla tones, with a delicate heart of jasmine & apricot.

From the very first whiff I get JAFFA, a confectionary here in Australia that is chocolate/orange, like those yummy segmented chocolate oranges that the Christian segment of the world got in their Xmas stockings. I don’t get the tartness of grapefruit it smells more like a mildly bitter, dark orange chocolate. It doesn’t take very long, maybe 5-190 minutes for the jasmine to waft through sinuously. If you liked Olympic Orchids California Chocolate then this is a creamier, richer and less scratchy version, still dark chocolate but much milder and more processed. I find Bohemia to be the closest to a mass market niche fragrance that One Seed has yet produced, it opens intensely sweet gourmand then levels out to sensual foody, good enough to eat rather than cake or cookie, in the heart and dry down and could easily have come from Serge Lutens or Robert Piguet. In fact, Bohemia is even more intense and interesting than many of the modern day offerings from mass market niche houses.

bohemia One Seed ClockLady linda FlickrPhoto Stolen linda Flickr

After the initial 1-30 minute fireworks, depending on the day, Bohemia settles down to something warm, suede plush, elegant and lavishly chic. You know those people who make everything look effortless, great hair, well put together clothes without fussiness, who always look relaxed either in an Armani suit or jeans, at the races, beach, boardroom or buying yachts. It’s like they’ve worked out something in life, like they were given a playbook or thought so much about it when they were young that now they just coast secure in the knowledge that the hard part is over. This is the kind of person I think could wear Bohemia, or anyone who wanted to smell like that. It’s unusual, yes, but not wild, ridiculous or trying hard. This could very easily be a signature scent if you were that way inclined. AWESOME! I love the black tea that has a smoky vibe and cuts through the vanilla sweetness perfectly keeping it a little bit tough and edgy.

bohemia One Seed Incense Lady Gianni Cumbo FlickrPhoto Stolen Gianni Cumbo Flickr

Another great thing about Bohemia is its longevity, I get around 5-6 hours of fragrant life and another couple of very close and skinnish scent. Nice sillage for the first two or three hours but never a huge scent bubble. After that it’s a friends and family scent, only those within your comfort zone.

One Seed site: 5ml Travel Spray $14.95 or $97/50ml
9 x 1ml Complete Range Sample Set $35 including World Wide Postage

 

giveaway ThinkDigitalWorldPhoto Stolen ThinkDigitalWorld

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

There are 2 prizes this week in our ONE SEED GIVEAWAY. Each winner will receive:

1 x 4ml manufacturers spray sample of Bohemia
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

All I need is a HELLO, with how you follow for you to be eligible for the draw.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie One Seed GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-1Wp I FOLLOWED @oneseedperfumes #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 8th September 2013 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and Jin will pick a winner.
The winners will have till Wednesday 11th September 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.