La Religieuse by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2015

May 7, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hi APJ,

Jasmine is such an important scent for me. Like gardenia, jasmine is the scent of my childhood summers in Sydney. Jasmine blossomed all around the neighbourhood and in our backyard. It was the scent of swimming in our pool on a long, sweaty December night; it was the scent of walking the dogs in the early summer evening when the humid air would gently caress the white petals and fill the pale sky with their intoxicating perfume; it was the scent of carefree and happy, languid days.

And yet, when it comes to perfume, jasmine is a really difficult note for me. The indolic nature of the flower tends to overwhelm on my skin, turning the scent from something that should be magnificently beautiful to something that more resembles, say, cat’s pee. Jasmine can often go so wrong on me, sour, sharp and just generally dreadful. I’ve tried so many in an effort to capture that wonderful scent of my childhood, often to no avail.

La Religieuse by Serge Lutens 2015

La Religieuse by Christopher Sheldrake

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Jasmine, musk, civet and incense

Therefore, it was with a mix of trepidation and excitement that I tested the latest release from Serge Lutens, La Religieuse, some weeks ago. I’d read that it was a softer jasmine than the houses other offerings: A La Nuit and Sarassins, but would it be a mess on my skin or would it be that gorgeous soft jasmine that I really wanted?

I can happily say its the latter. La Religieuse is one of the only new releases lately that has gone straight on my full bottle to buy list, it is that beautiful and perfect to me.

Photo Stolen Flickr

I find the notes list quite misleading because the scent for me is a light, green and sweet jasmine. La Religieuse opens up sharp and slightly indolic but with a beautiful verdancy that keeps my nose to my wrist. The overall effect is of being enveloped into masses of jasmine bushes awaiting to bloom – you get the green, lush smell of the leaves and just a promise of scent from the delicate white unopened tendrils.

The jasmine then comes to the fore and it’s quite fruity and playful, underscored by the almondy powder scent of mimosa. It’s this slight marzipan-sweet vibe that I find unusual and beautiful and such an interesting twist and contrast to the green to white floral vibe. It’s a fairly linear scent, somewhat quiet and yet resolute and yet joyful at the same time.

La Religieuse may not please those who like big, thick indolic jasmines, but it’s just a perfect scent for me that has just felt completely right every time I’ve worn it. It’s also a good choice for any occasion, light enough for the office, elegant enough for a little black dress and comforting enough for those days when one just wants a sense of solitude and peace.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

Further reading: Persolaise and Perfume Posse
Luckyscent has $150/50ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $4.50/0.5ml

Have you tried La Religieuse? What did you think? What are your favourite jasmines? What perfumes remind you of your childhood?

With much love till next time!
M xx

Rosa Damascaena: 10 Fragrant Rose Oil Recipes

May 6, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Suzanne R Banks

“Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose.“
Gertrude Stein

Rose essential oil is sometimes referred to as Attar of Rose or Rose Otto. It is steam distilled and the most expensive way to buy rose oil. Many other rose oils are actually “absolutes”, which refers to the way in which the scented oil has been extracted. This method is not very natural, often with chemicals used to extract the scented essence.

I’m hoping that one day soon we will start to see more CO2 extracts of rose available, which are more environmentally friendly (even though it doesn’t sound like it), and actually extracts more of the plant or flower than steam distillation does. Check out my article “What are CO2 Extracts in the World of Aromatherapy?” for more info.

Rosa Damascaena: 10 Fragrant Rose Oil Recipes

Photo Stolen Flickr

On to some recipes.
I will give you some recipes using Rosa Damascaena 3% rose oil and some using pure rose oil. Rose oil is mostly sold already mixed in a 3% ratio with jojoba mainly because of the cost. See my article for more info on 3% blends in jojoba.

1. Rosa Damascaena: Facial Oil Treatment

Mix one or two drops of essential oil in one teaspoon of carrier oil. You can warm the oil slightly first if desired – it will be very relaxing! Massage your face and rest for 10 minutes. You can also place a cool or warm wet face cloth on your face as a compress over the oil mask. Remove excess oil with a tissue or cloth if necessary.

Rose 3% 6 drops

Rose pure 2 drops in a teaspoon of oil

2. Rosa Damascaena: Pure Pulse Point Perfume

In a little dish mix these oils and anoint your pulse points or chakras – 3 drops of essential oils and dilute with a few drops of carrier oil – always patch test first!
*All with 3% rose oil

“Sense and Sensibility”
Rose 3% 3 drops
Rose Geranium 1 drop
Nutmeg 1 drop

“Lovin Myself”
Rose 3% 4 drops
Lemon 2 drops

“Queen”
Rose 3% 6 drops
Indian Rosewood 1 drop (Dalbergia sissoo)

“Single Pointed Intention”
Rose 3% 4 drops
Orange 1 drop
Patchouli 1 drop

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

3. Rosa Damascaena: Nourishing Body Oil Blend

For a coat of your body use 3 teaspoons of carrier oil in a little dish and, add 7 – 8 drops of essential oil. It’s always best to patch test first, before you apply all over.

***** Always put the drops of essential oil into the bottle or dish first, then add the carrier oil. It gives the scents time to create a synergistic fusion.

For a 50ml bottle of oil add 25 drops and see my articles “Ratios for Blending Essential Oils – A Reminder of the Basics” and “Aromatherapy – It’s Easy as 1 2 3”

*All with 3% rose oil so the ratios from my standards above, will differ slightly

“Softly”
Rose 3% 6 drops
Peru Balsam 2 drops
Bergamot 2 drops

“One Fine Day”
Rose 3% 6 drops
Geranium 2 drops
Juniper 2 drops

“Wish”
Rose 3% 9 drops
Neroli 3% 4 drops

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

4. Rosa Damascaena: Personal Aura Cleansing Mist & Room Mist

In a 50ml mist bottle filled with water add 25 drops of oil

(depending on the packaging you have, you may need to use a little alcohol -like vodka- at the bottom of your bottle first, so the oils disperse into smaller drops to prevent clogging the atomiser top. I’ve found sometimes it works just with water, and sometimes it doesn’t – very annoying!)

*All using pure rose oil

“Pure Magic”
Rose 6 drops
Ylang Ylang 4 drops
Mandarin 8 drops
Cypress 7 drops

“Wild”
Rose 8 drops
Black Spruce 8 drops
Australian Sandalwood 7 drops

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Happy blending and remember to use your intention when you are creating your formulas. See my article about intention.

Check out my YouTube channel too, thanks.

Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

Please check out my new book REVELATION! – Reveal Your Destiny with Essential Oils

Amazon USA Amazon AU Amazon UK

Fragrances For What Ails You?

May 5, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hello fragrance fans, I’ve realised some members of my fragrance collection have become a fragrant first-aid kit for my more common ailments. Grabbing fragrances based on how I am feeling physically, loosely based on the aromatherapeutic properties of their notes, cheers me up no end.

*Please note all the below has only been tested on one human being, no animals and are not recommended without perhaps some other medications, where prescribed

Fragrances For What Ails You?

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Nausea – Etat Libre d’Orange – Like This – full of carminative baked ginger cookie smell this warm combination can ease waves of nausea like no tomorrow. Dosage: spritz on stomach 2 x per day

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Insomnia – Crawling into bed and suddenly my eyes pop open and my brain comes alive with activity!! So I reach for Aqua Allegoria Lavande Velours by Guerlain, which stays, on my bedside table. Sprayed onto my pillow and sheets the powdery combination of lavender, iris and sandalwood takes me off to the land of nod in no time.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Muscular Aches, Pains and Tension – Sycomore by Chanel Les Exclusifs Earthy vetiver and grounding sandalwood I just love this fragrance sprayed just above a hot steamy bath, or when I’m feeling “extravagantly ache-y” a capful poured into the bath does wonders for ridding my body of all tension, aches and pains.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Run Down and Generally Germy – Potpourri by Santa Maria Novella’s mix of Italian herbs rosemary, thyme, patchouli and cloves make this an immune booster for those days when you know you’re coming down with something. Despite some prettier notes of carnation, bergamot, and peru balsam this fragrance smells deliciously medicinal and purifying.
(Side note, the Santa Maria Novella Collection will soon be available from Peony Melbourne)

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Chills – Serge Lutens – Jeux de Peau warms me up and makes me feel cosy and comfy. Almost like having a cup of hot milky tea and a massage with the warmest of warm hands. Use this fragrance when you feel chilled to the bone. A few spritz 1-2 x per day, once sprayed it just keeps on getting better and better as osmanthus reveals itself amongst the warm baked bread and buttery toasted coconut notes. Divine!

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Sore Throat – everyone knows a teaspoon of honey with cinnamon and spices soothes a sore throat and Mitzah by DIOR is the queen bee that soothes mine. Dosage: Spritz throat/chest area and wrap neck, where possible, with a leopard print scarf to stay warm and glamorous.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Headache – nanah mint features in Comme Des Garcons’ Play Green and applied to my temples and back of neck it cools and refreshes when I have a headache. Supporting notes of Basil, lime and juniper mean even when I am brain fatigued and lacking concentration this fragrances helps put some life back into me.

I think you can find samples of all of these at Surrender To Chance<<JUMP

So my fine fragrant friends tell me if you too use fragrant for your ills and if so in what combinations?

Xx Your Fragrant Nurse, Ainslie ;D

SmackDown: Le Galion Sortilege (2014) vs Lavin Arpege (vintage)

May 4, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Willa Zheng

Psst, there’s quiet buzz about a new old perfume house on the scene. Two months ago, I had the pleasure of meeting creative director, Nicolas Chabot, whilst he was in town to promote the resurrection of the venerable but now largely forgotten fragrance house of Le Galion.

SmackDown: Sortilege 2014 vs Arpege vintage

Photo Stolen Le Galion

Owned by perfumer Paul Vacher (Miss Dior, Diorling) during its heyday (1935-1975), the flagship fragrance in Le Galion’s coffret is Sortilege. Sortilege was Vacher’s first creation for Le Galion when he purchased the house from a French prince. Prior to Le Galion, Vacher worked for Lavin and was one of the perfumers for Arpege. Now as the owner and head perfumer of his own perfume house, Vacher wanted to revisit his early work and create it now the way he would have it. Voilà, Sortilege, the unofficial “director’s cut” of Arpege.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Unfortunately, with the restricted availability and banned use of certain raw materials, Nicolas had to enlist the help of perfumer Thomas Fontaine (Joy Forever) to reformulate Vacher’s 1935 masterpiece for the 2014 market. We know that Arpege is now but a wan spectre of its former glorious self but how does the new version of Sortilege compare to Arpege, as Paul Vacher understood it?

This month’s smackdown is a battle of the old verses the new. And to control for variability in vintage sample qualities, we’re smacking Sortilege (2014) against not one but two vintage versions, parfum 60s & edt 80s, of Arpege. Thanks Portia!

Photo Stolen Pixabay

SmackDown: The First Hit

Le Galion Sortilege (2014)
Sortilege opens like a fruity-floral lemonade. The aldehydic experience is not unlike Chanel No. 5 Eau Premier. It’s peachy, juicy white florals. Complex and beautifully blended, Sortilege smell like spring – late spring to be precise.
The opening notes, curiously, are best described in Fragrancetica’s top notes listing for Arpege – aldehydes, peach, lily of the valley, neroli, bergamot and honeysuckle. I could not detect any lilac nor much ylang ylang at this open.
Lanvin Arpege (vintage)
Arpege parfum opens to what seems to be leather and oakmoss. There is some aldehyde but it’s not the fizzy sparkling quality found in Sortilege or Chanel No. 5. I suspect this is due to age of the sample. Then the parfum starts to develop a green, woody character. Is it patchouli? Or coriander? It’s hard to tell for vintage perfumes, when the notes can just be bruised.
Portia’s vintage EDT also opens to oakmoss, and birch tar. There’s a dark rubbery quality to it, and the aldehyde is soft.

SmackDown: Round Two

Le Galion Sortilege (2014)
As the aldehydes soften, deeper notes like rose and jasmine come to Sortilege’s fore. It is strong, sweet and assertive.
Lanvin Arpege (vintage)
Within minutes after the parfum opens, clean bright jasmines begin to sing. As the jasmine flowers soar, they lift up and carry along with it other white florals. Lily, rose, geranium, lily of the valley… they’re all there. The experience is like inhaling inside a white wedding bouquet. Sweet, radiant, and beautiful. Arpege parfum is the bride in her wedding dress; she is the centre of attention and will compete with no one.
Arpege EDT changes her posture at a breakneck speed. Before you could even enjoy the deep, heavy opening notes, they vanish and are replaced by a clean, soapy (iris, geranium, lily) jasmine accord. But there’s still a slight rubbery quality to it. A darker, smokier white floral fragrance than the parfum. It’s reminiscent of YSL Opium, if Opium had been spiked with powdery, white floral notes.
Warning: There’s no gentleness about either Arpege samples. The white flowers are LOUD and will wear out your nostrils. It’s like Giorgio Beverly Hills, the 80s, all over again. NSFW.

SmackDown: The Knockout

Le Galion Sortilege (2014)
Half an hour later, the Sortilege experience becomes less juicy and the final base of sweet sandalwood, amber and musk is revealed. This base remains linear to the conclusion.
Lanvin Arpege (vintage)
In the parfum’s final phase, sandalwood and amber emerge to ground the white floral bouquet just before she has worn out her host’s patience. But there’s a medicine box, chypre (green-woody) quality to this base, echoing Clinique Elixir and Estee Lauder Youth Dew. Her last breath is civet.
The EDT is heavier on the sandalwood, and has noticeably more labdanum and civet. The effect is sharper and more tenacious than the parfum.

SmackDown: Verdict

Although Sortilege (2014) and Arpege (1927) can both be classified as aldehydic white florals with a sweet amber base, they have completely different personalities. Sortilege is prettier and well suited for the modern fruity-floral palette. It’s very wearable and has no ugly bits. Arpege is more challenging – but rooted in the era when chypre was the new big thing.
Sillage wise, Arpege wins Paul Vacher’s bouquet toss. Sortilege wears close to the skin and lasts a moderate 6-8hrs. Arpege parfum and EDT tied at 6-8hrs as well.

Now tell me, is there a vintage fragrance you’d like to ‘make over’?
Willa Zheng

La Chasse aux Papillons by Anne Flipo for L`Artisan Parfumeur 1999

May 3, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Hi there Spring Lovers,

For all my love of L’Artisan and my high regard for their pioneering and delicate beauty for some reason I never bothered much with today’s offering. It was too ephemeral, not high octane enough and in compariso to my big time white florals it was a pip squeak. The other week though Nick from Libertine Parfumerie gave me a RollerBall and asked me to give it a whirl and so it was with trepidation that I thanked him and took possession of this lovely slim yet hefty glass bottle, sized so perfectly for handbags and even top drawers of desks, a perfect emergency back up.

La Chasse aux Papillons by L`Artisan Parfumeur 1999

La Chasse aux Papillons by Anne Flipo

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tuberose, orange blossom, jasmine, lime blossom, white flowers

Expecting to be annoyed by the fleetingness of La Chasse aux Papillons as I have been in the spritz version it came as a big surprise that the roller application does not burn off so quickly. I think it allows you to get more juice on your body and the lack of frisson and aeration could mean that it lifts more slowly. Whatever the reason I am getting around 4 hours of noticeable white flower with projection, not enormous after the second hour but I remain softly fragrant.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

How does La Chasse aux Papillons smell? Well, imagine a room full of white flowers. You have tuberose, orange blossom, jasmine all together in a massed display. It’s a warm spring afternoon so you’ve opened the living room doors and outside the grass is rippling in a soft breeze and you are happy. Maybe you’ve stolen a slice of orange off the table but all the meat has been eaten and you are left with the white pith and rind and as you stand in the doorway there are waves of white flowers that float out from the house and then when the wind changes what you get is fresh air, grass and citrus floating back around you yet still there is the all pervading gothic smell of the death of white flowers. It’s both light as air and heavy as the crisp red cotton damask table cloth, tranquil and languid. You feel both energised and enervated, it’s like the heavy charged air before a storm and similar in texture to that shimmery green that often happens after one.

Photo Stolen Libertine

There is a breathy, indolic quality to La Chasse aux Papillons, but the breath and flesh of a healthy young person. L’Artisan has tried to capture in a bottle the fun of a summer day with kids chasing butterflies and laughing. I find La Chasse aux Papillons too crisp and refreshing for summer, in my mind we are definitely in spring and the world is bursting with growth and promise. Am I crazy? Nobody mentions that there is a lovely wallop of musks in the dry down, am I smelling it wrong? Considering La Chasse aux Papillons was created in 1999 it is surprisingly modern and hasn’t dated at all.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

I wore about five of my 7.5ml over Jin and my Singapore & South Korea 2015 trip. It was perfect for planes, shopping, eating and sight seeing. I would get soft wafts from my neck and arms that made me smile and melt inside a little every time. Never overpowering and excellent to counteract the ghastly stench of a longish plane ride, a little dab on my hand and the world smells beautiful again.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and EauMG
Libertine has $54/7.5ml
L’Artisan UK has £15/7.5ml
L’Artisan USA has $25/7.5ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

Have you spent time with La Chasse aux Papillons? Are its softly muted white flowers your style?
Portia xx

Femme (Vintage) by Edmond Roudnitska for Rochas 1943 LIVE Video Sniff

May 2, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Hey Fumies,

I wonder if Edmond Roudniska is rolling in his grave? My mate David (Margeaux) and I take on one of the world’s most enduring fragrances in a LIVE Video Sniff! We are only enthusiasts and the thrill of being in front of a camera coupled with a few beverages, a group of the APJ crew together and our own madness means that we completely forget much of what we wanted to say, some of what we really should have said, and then mangle what we do say and add in bullshit to boot. Your mission, should you choose to take it, is to unravel the truth and tell us because we are up shit creek without a boat, let alone a paddle; and yes, I do know that Edmond Roudnitska was the creator, Edward Roudnitska is a figment of my crazed, and deranged by sniffing too much perfume, brain.

Vintage Femme by Rochas 1943 LIVE Video Sniff

Vintage Femme by Edmond Roudnitska

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

What I can tell you is that we had a really fabulous time making this. Surely that counts for something. If you’d like to see a review of the currently available for next to nothing reformulation that is still wickedly wonderful then Femme by Edmond Roudnitska for Rochas 1943

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

As always I have to thank my BFF for her video and editing skills which she gives up her precious spare time to do, THANKS KATH!! Also a shout out to Jin who makes it blog ready and lastly I need to thank Margeaux for being an excellent fellow with such a great personality and a great mate, not to mention that he is a complete SPUNK!!

Do please enjoy our frolic through Vintage Femme by Rochas.
Till we see you tomorrow we wish you only good stuff.
Loads of love,
Portia xx

This whole piece is a reblog from 2012. I love it so much that I thought we could all watch it again.

Michael Edwards + Women's Wear Daily Magazine

May 1, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 3 Comments

Hey there APJ,

Just in from Ainslie Walker the latest Michael Edwards from Fragrances Of The World PRESS RELEASE!

Michael Edwards + Women’s Wear Daily Magazine

Michael rarely mentions his fragrance projects, but here’s a development that will interest you: yesterday, Women’s Wear Daily, the New York fragrance, beauty and fashion trade bible, was reborn. No longer a daily paper, the new glossy weekly debuts with 246 pages … and the first Smell Test leads the Beauty reports.

Michael was asked by WWD to assemble “a jury of world-class fragrance experts who will judge various scents for their olfactory quality, revealing the nuances of perfumery’s new world order. Panelists are given unmarked vials of fragrance to smell in a blind, impartial test. The fragrance will be scored on a scale of 10 (the ultimate) to 1 (forgettable), with an average score computed.”

MISIA, the newest addition to Chanel’s Les Exclusifs collection, is the first fragrance his jury evaluated. It scored an average of 7.2 points. You’ll find the full article and slide show on WWD

Each week, the WWD jury will evaluate and score a new fragrance in the weekly WWD.

Ambre Vie by Christi Meshell for House of Matriarch 2012

April 30, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Post by FeralJasmine

I love amber and there is probably no note that I wear more regularly. I have different ambers for different seasons, but I adore them all. I am considering adding Ambre Vie to my line-up and am weighing my decision and seeking enablement.

Ambre Vie by Christi Meshell for House of Matriarch 2012

Ambre Vie: Soft Amber Waves

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Ambreine (labdanum), resins, mimosa petals, davana (artemisia), costus, amber, natural musk

Ambre Vie is an all-natural vanillic amber. It’s beautifully smooth and opens with a soft wave of spices and mimosa, but nothing dramatic. From the moment of spraying it smells somehow “settled,” as if it has melded with skin. I find it very hard to differentiate the various spice notes from one another. The labdanum is smooth and supple. The vanilla is there from the beginning, but it is soft and low-key and serves just to round out the amber. There is a dessert-wine, Tokai-like note which is probably the balsamic note referred to on Fragrantica. There are soft sweet powdery undertones, which I love in amber perfumes. On me it’s very soft and work-appropriate. Over the course of an hour the winey and mimosa notes disappear and the powder is a little more pronounced, but other than that it’s pretty linear. The remarks on House of Matriarch’s website refer to the drydown “becoming mysteriously stronger with time,” and all I can say is, not on me. It’s a skin scent within 90 minutes and gone at the two-hour mark.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

A commenter on Fragrantica calls it a “reference amber” and I agree with this. It’s like your perfect pound cake recipe that, while not being in any way unusual, is always delicious and never lets you down. Another Fragrantica commenter, Deadidol, says “Like its closest analog, HdP’s Ambre 114, this scent utilizes more than 100 materials to achieve its effect, yet the result is largely free from bombast. There’s musk lurking beneath, but it merges with the buttery tones of the base to keep from announcing itself too loudly. Similarly, soft, smoky notes appear alongside what seems to be clove, but these notes never get close enough the surface for full recognition.”

When I dream of the perfect workhorse amber perfume to suit all occasions and seasons and never call unwanted attention to itself (while inviting the wanted kind!), it’s pretty much like Ambre Vie. I wish it were more intense and lasted longer, and if it did, I wouldn’t be deliberating, I would be buying. I suspect that this is unique to my perfume-eating skin, because commenters have reported that it does last several hours on them. But ultimately I will almost surely buy a bottle because it is so very pretty, so well-made, and so right.

Photo Stolen SteamRadio

Further reading: hausofwaft
House of Matriarch starts from $24/3.3ml

Speak to me of amber! What are your favorite perfumes based on this lovely note?
FeralJasmine x

Isabey Perle de la Route d`Emeraude by Panouge 2014

April 29, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Post by Trésor

I love beautiful things. As much as I’m fond of saying that material things mean very little to me (and in all honestly they truly don’t in the grand scheme of things), I cannot deny that I have a powerful affection for objects graced with exquisite form and effortless function. The DNA of true luxury in my opinion is not a statement of needless excess nor grandeur but a transcendent elevation of the ordinary into a creation of unmitigated refinement; a symphonious pas de deux of finely calibrated performance and unyielding pulchritude. Perfection captured in kaleidoscopic microcosms, the harmonious tick-tick-tick of a fine timepiece or the gloriously symmetrical saddle stitching on a wallet from the atelier of Hermès. The same can be said for fragrance and I would hazard to say that capturing this particularly elusive je ne sais quoi within an olfactory landscape proves to be an even more arduous task than presented in the physically tactile artforms, though when one manages I can assure you it is truly magnificent. Case in point, the poetic opulence of Perle de la Route d`Emeraude from the Parisian house of Isabey.

Isabey Perle de la Route d`Emeraude by Panouge 2014

Isabey Perle de la Route d`Emeraude by Jean Jacques

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Rose oil, Cinnamon
Heart: Jasmine sambac, Moroccan jasmine absolute, Orange blossom, Tuberose
Base: Ambergris, Benzoin, Vanilla, Musk

The opening sequence of Perle de la Route d`Emeraude (let’s just call her Perle from now on. A (tube)rose by any other name, and all that.) is an immaculately mellifluous diapason of white florals, as rich and utterly labyrinthine as you could possibly imagine. Operatic jasmine radiates forth in her narcotic light show, flashing lambent bursts of bergamot as if they were jewels decorating her velvet ivory. Tuberose graced with crimson red lips and Monroe curves reveals milky flesh, inch by inch though the ostrich feather plumes of her burlesque fan; innocence maintained only through the wreath of orange blossoms placed within her golden hair.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

The airspace is penetrated by the redolent nectarous density of pure floral essence overflowing from petals releasing their very souls into our welcoming embrace. An icy current of buttery orris root courses through the background, acting as foil to the vivid canary hue of voluptuous ylang yang which serves to further amplify the depth and utter luxuriance which dwells within this unctuous elixir. As the composition begins its descent the inimitable warmth and splendid sweetness of benzoin resin rises from beneath the radiant florals and begins to enrapture everything in its wake. Smooth, smoky vanilla weaves gently through what remains of the the lush flora and leads Perle to her final moments on the skin as a sublimely comforting aureate glow.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

The sillage on Perle is what you would expect of a decadent extrait de parfum, plush to the point of divinity while maintaining a particular geniality that creates a most fascinating harmony, indeed. As for longevity, it is about 8 hours before I finally notice her fading off into the distance leaving but traces of warmth and beautiful memories behind her. I urge you to give Perle a try if you are looking to experience the beauty of tuberose in full, unapologetic glory or if you’re simply in the mood for a truly decadent treat to brighten a rainy day.

Further reading: Scentsory Meltdown
LuckyScent has $355/50ml & Samples

What about you? Do you love a particular tuberose? Have you tried this one?

Until next time, kittens.
Trésor xx

Classic Opoponax by Von Eusersdorff 2015

April 28, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 30 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

An Immaculate Oriental……

You know when I first met Portia and we decided I would sometimes write posts for APJ I had absolutely no idea at all that I would be sat here more than two years later. Not only that but that I would also shoot down to Italy to attend the perfume shows. It is kind of funny really. I absolutely love going to them, and have no intention of stopping. And yet I am so hesitant to try anything new. The older I get the more überfussy I have become. (Don´t believe that. I have always been very selective.)

Classic Opoponax by Von Eusersdorff 2015

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose, jasmine
Heart: Opoponax, sandalwood, benzoin
Base: Castoreum, amber, patchouli, vanilla

Classic Opoponax was one of the very few (you could count them on one hand) of the new launches I was absolutely excited to try. I spent an hour searching through the Campomarzio party guests for Camille Henfling Junior, founder of Von Eusersdorff and an absolutely lovely bloke. I say searching because there was about 500 guests in about a 50 square meter area and it was dark – it took a while!

Photo Donated Camille

Opoponax is also known as opobalsam, which explains its resiny feel. It is also known as sweet myrrh, in contrast to the bitter myrrh which is more commonly used in medicines, both Ayurvedic and Western. Sweet myrrh has been used for at least two thousand years in incense and perfumes and comes primarily from Somalia and Ethiopia. Von Eusersdorff’s Classic Opoponax feels slightly sticky when you spray generously, which you need to do to do it justice. Hence the solid comfortable 100 ml bottle.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Classic Opoponax is Von Eusersdorff’s sixth fragrance. Each fragrance is concentrated around a single note and all are of a very high standard. Elegant and handsome. Classic Opoponax no exception. It is a flawless oriental. Warm and thick, sweet and resinous, heady and quietly opulent. No spices. Very contemporary. It opens with a wonderfully sweet rose along with jasmine and takes you on a seamless ride into the heart of opoponax and on into the base of amber and patchouli, vanilla and a dab of castoreum. It all seems so effortless, which means it was not.

Photo Donated Val

Classic Opoponax will be a summer perfume for me. I love rich sweet orientals in the heat. I find they stay very flat on the skin in cold weather. And no, 10 mls is definitely not enough.

Further reading: GoodSmellas and Colognoisseur
ParfuMaria has €119/100ml

Dankjewel Meneer Henfling for the wonderful package. It really touched me.

Which of the Von Eusersdorff fragrances have you tried, or do you want to try?

Tot Ziens
CQ

Photo Donated Camille

Australian Perfume Junkies

Olfactory Opinions from Oz

Perfume

La Religieuse by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2015

La Religieuse by Serge Lutens 2015

La Religieuse by Christopher Sheldrake

Rosa Damascaena: 10 Fragrant Rose Oil Recipes

Rosa Damascaena: 10 Fragrant Rose Oil Recipes

1. Rosa Damascaena: Facial Oil Treatment

2. Rosa Damascaena: Pure Pulse Point Perfume

3. Rosa Damascaena: Nourishing Body Oil Blend

4. Rosa Damascaena: Personal Aura Cleansing Mist & Room Mist

Fragrances For What Ails You?

Fragrances For What Ails You?

SmackDown: Le Galion Sortilege (2014) vs Lavin Arpege (vintage)

SmackDown: Sortilege 2014 vs Arpege vintage

SmackDown: The First Hit

SmackDown: Round Two

SmackDown: The Knockout

SmackDown: Verdict

La Chasse aux Papillons by Anne Flipo for L`Artisan Parfumeur 1999

La Chasse aux Papillons by L`Artisan Parfumeur 1999

La Chasse aux Papillons by Anne Flipo

Femme (Vintage) by Edmond Roudnitska for Rochas 1943 LIVE Video Sniff

Vintage Femme by Rochas 1943 LIVE Video Sniff

Vintage Femme by Edmond Roudnitska

Michael Edwards + Women's Wear Daily Magazine

Michael Edwards + Women’s Wear Daily Magazine

Ambre Vie by Christi Meshell for House of Matriarch 2012

Ambre Vie by Christi Meshell for House of Matriarch 2012

Ambre Vie: Soft Amber Waves

Isabey Perle de la Route d`Emeraude by Panouge 2014

Isabey Perle de la Route d`Emeraude by Panouge 2014

Isabey Perle de la Route d`Emeraude by Jean Jacques