Jardins d'Armide by Oriza L. Legrand 1909/2013

Hello you Gorgeous Frag Geeks,

During out European Frag Tour 2014 Michael and I made a point of going and seeing the boys of Oriza L Legrand at their 18 Rue Saint-Augustin, Paris store. We organised a date and expecting to be given a mini tour of the range and their history, which I had read a fair bit about and then forgotten, we walked to the store. Michael was excited to discover a new fragrance house and I was very interested to meet two men who were able to bring their dream of owning a fragrance house to life.

Oriza Franck and Hugo

Turns out that Franck & Hugo are the sweetest men in the history of the known universe, they explained the history, the ideas, the fragrances and a whole lot else. Charming, amusing and extremely dedicated to perfumery and their brand I foresee great things for them. If the quality of their product and service remain at these standards then I can see no reason why not. Today I am going to introduce you to the Oriza L. Legrand fragrance that rocked my world more than the rest.

Jardins d'Armide Sarah BernhardtPhoto Stolen Oriza L. Legrand Facebook

 Jardins d’Armide by Oriza L. Legrand 1909/2013

Jardins d'Armide Oriza L. Legrand FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose, orris, powdery notes, orange blossom
Heart: Iris, violet, carnation, wisteria
Base: Honey, almond, tonka bean, musk

Interestingly I bought the fragrance that quite a bit of the scentbloggosphere has either not loved or actively disliked. When Michael and I were being taken through the range it was all touche spritzing until we got to Jardins d’Armide and withing 10 minutes of it being spritzed on a card I was asking to see how it lived on my skin. A little over an hour of fragrance, fun, good humoured banter and the super great story of the company’s inception and reincarnation I was asking for some Jardins d’Armide. Hugo thought I wanted a sample and had already done me a 10ml to take with me (SO kind and thoughtful) but it was a bottle and some of their delicious soaps that I was after. The boys were even so sweet that they posted the bottle back home for me at a very small extra cost, and they put some sample packs in for me to do a giveaway on the blog!

Oriza Michael #2

So, what does Jardins d’Armide smell like when it hits my skin, and during its lovely long life? The first thing I get is a funky Musk Stick smell that is both super sugared and soapy, like a sweet rose jam soap. It’s fun and neon bright and it stays for around 5 minutes before receding slightly to let a very breathy, indolic, orange blossom play along and here is where we really get to see the full blown spicy fruit rose bloom. There is an accord that I’ve come across lately and Michael and I decided it was the Hairspray and Nail Polish accord, I FREAKING LOVE IT! Jardins d’Armide has this accord in spades and I think it may have something to do with violet and iris together.

Oriza Portia #1

Well into the second hour I think I’m getting a little saffron but it could easily be the violet & iris and honey all smooshing around together. The almond and honey take over somewhere around the 4-5 hour mark but still there lingers a lovely powdery sweetness. It wafts around for a while then slowly fades to nothing. A beautiful ride and I enjoy it immensely. Maybe it’s my skin but I find Jardins d’Armide to be an extremely wearable fragrance that is noticeable, has good sillage and low to medium projection after the first hour. I definitely made the right choice because even here back in Sydney I am reaching for Jardins d’Armide more than almost everything else in my collection.

Oriza L Legrand  Perfumed CandlesPhoto Stolen Oriza L Legrand

Oriza L Legrand Online Boutique has €120/100ml and send worldwide
Oriza L Legrand Online Boutique also has Sample Sets only €9/7 x 2ml spray samples of their line

Have you tried any of the Oriza L. Legrand fragrances yet? Did you know that their Horizon has been nominated for an Olfactorama Award?
Portia xx

Giveaway myprettypaintsPhoto Stolen myprettypaints

Oriza L. Legrand GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will each receive:

1 set of 7 x 2ml Oriza L Legrand samples
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Go to Oriza L. Legrand<<<JUMP and find me a fragrance and one of its notes, or another of their products and it’s fragrance name. NO DOUBLE UPS!!

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie  Oriza L Legrand GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2z9 #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 20th March 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Monday 24th March 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Oriza L Legrand SoapsPhoto Stolen Oriza L Legrand

 

L`Heure Mysterieuse XII by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier 2009

Hello my lovelies,

You may remember that last year in Prague I bought L’Heure Convoiteé II and at the time Jin quite liked L`Heure Brilliant VI and so I have been trying to get him a sample of it from a Cartier store for over a year now. Yes, I know I can buy a sample at Surrender To Chance but I really wanted him to have the full Cartier sample experience. In the hopes of finding a sample at the source Neela Vermeire took me to 13 Rue de la Paix, Paris on my recent visit. Sadly there were none but the gentleman who manages the store was extremely affable and gave me a couple of other samples, there was also the most gorgeous security guard I’ve ever seen, quite a movie star.

L`Heure Mysterieuse XII by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier 2009

Les Heures de Cartier

L`Heure Mysterieuse XII Cartier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Jasmine, patchouli, coriander, elemi, incense, nutmeg

A patchouli bomb where the patchouli and nutmeg get together with everything else and make me smell bitter chocolate at the open, then the elemi and coriander take over giving me bitter, sour, green that is both intriguing and slightly disgusting, not like Secretions Magnifique but there is something mildly revolting that I can’t stop sniffing. You know when a fit and healthy person sweats at the gym? Though you know it’s sweat so kind of yucky, yet still to cuddle up with them if they’ve arrived home unshowered can be very darn sexy and it doesn’t matter if you muss them up because they are heading for the shower anyway. L`Heure Mysterieuse XII is that kind of scent, a nod to the sweetest of scents, healthy sweat. Before, during and after.

An invitation into secrets, the scent of a whisper, heady and lascivious.” Mathilde Laurent, Cartier perfumer.

Yes, that’s what I’m getting, a breathy invitation to entanglement over coffee. This is a sexy scent that sometimes during its story can smell a bit ripe, over ripe even, humanity about to go nasty. Then not too far into the heart it changes completely, still humans in the picture but now the smell of a wood fire, the warmth and woods, smoke and cooking, the herbs & spices are playing lovely counterpoint and still this lovely sweatiness floating in and around. Do any of you get this clean skank? I would never have believed that L`Heure Mysterieuse XII was a Cartier if I didn’t get it straight from the shop in Paris. Amazing, fun and NAUGHTY! I have worn this now 3 times and every time I am astounded at the implied raunch.

L`Heure Mysterieuse XII stays pretty linear and does more of a fade than a change after it hits the smoky woods with spicy, sweaty humanity breath overtones except to add more patchouli and a hint of leather onto the pile. Lasting power is good at 9+ hours of fragrant, sillage soft and scent projection quite close but very discernible and towards the end it’s only the softest and most subtle suede, gorgeous. I think I now need to make Jin wear it to see if it has the same feral overtones on another body  that I’m not sniffing up so close to.

L`Heure Mysterieuse XII Cartier Cabin_fireplace WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Pink Manhattan and Bois de Jasmin
Cartier stand alone stores and some Cartier counters in department stores carry the range
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/.5ml

I have enjoyed my L`Heure Mysterieuse XII wearings immensely and if it wasn’t so damn expensive in Australia at AUD $405 I would have rushed down to Cartier and grabbed one already, maybe next holiday.

Have you yet tried any of Les Heures de Cartier? Did you have a favourite? What about the elegant aesthetic? Would you love a bottle?
Portia xx

Dot by Annie Buzantian and Ann Gottlieb for Marc Jacobs 2012

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Post by Poodle

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Dot, dot, dot…

This is not really a review but rather a tale of a perfume that I never thought I’d wear, never mind own.

Hubby went on a trip and got me a fragrant souvenir. I know I should have told him what to get but I was curious to see what he’d pick if left to his own devices. Well, he went to a Sephora and with some help from the SA, left with one of the newest releases at the time. Dot. Yes, the Marc Jacobs one.

Dot by Annie Buzantian and Ann Gottlieb for Marc Jacobs 2012

Dot Marc Jacobs FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords (different in words & pics):
Top: Red berries, honeysuckle, pitaya fruit (dragon fruit)
Heart: Coconut, jasmine, orange blossom
Base: Vanilla, driftwood, musk

So there I sat with a polka dotted bottle of my very own dreading the thought that I might have to wear it. I thought perhaps I could wear it once or twice and when he didn’t notice it I could shove it to the back of the shelf and forget about it.

I bravely spritzed one morning before work. When I stepped into the kitchen after getting ready, hubby noticed immediately and commented on my fragrance. I told him it was the one he bought and he was so pleased that he picked out something that smelled so good. Of course I was not thinking that. This was not what I wanted to smell like. Not. At. All.

 Dot Marc Jacobs Pitaya Dragon Fruit WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

At work there was a random comment that something smelled good in the office but I knew it couldn’t be me so I dismissed it. Then I was followed down the hall by a coworker who wanted to know if it was me she was smelling. It was. She had to know what my perfume was. I was forced to admit I was wearing Dot. I even brought her a sample the next day.

The next time I wore it I received similar reactions and hubby comments on it every time.

To this day Dot continues to be one of the perfumes that I get the most compliments on.I’ve accepted that fact now even though I don’t understand it.

Dot Marc Jacobs  Reid_x_Hotch FaeryFireFly DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

There’s no point in trying to dissect the perfume note by note. It smells like a lot of other fruity florals to me. I would not be able to pick it out of a scented line up. It’s sweet and dripping with red berries, white flowers, and vanilla. It’s girly and a bit loud at first. Yet people seem to love it on me. It’s not “me”, but I guess I’m not wearing it for me. I’m wearing it because hubby bought it for me and it makes him happy. Once in a while you have to take one for the team I guess.

Do you have perfumes you wear because someone gave them to you or because they like them on you even though they’re not favorites of yours? Please tell me I’m not the only one.

Poodle x

Oriental Lace by Calice Becker for Oscar de la Renta 2012

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Post by Azar

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A couple of months ago my daughter sent me a link to the July 3, 2013 Lauren Valenti/Styleite take on Oscar de la Renta’s Oriental Lace. This brief post included a number of comments, one of which likened Oriental Lace to the smell of “a piano teacher’s house”.

The notes listed for Oriental Lace on various websites include honey, bitter almond, cacao, wax plant (Hoya carnosa) and patchouli. I wondered what any of these scents had to do with the headspace of this piano teacher’s house?

The Smell of a Piano Teacher’s House

A lot of smelly things find their way to the first floor of our home where I maintain my music studio. In addition to the library of musty musical scores, anthologies, sheets and shelves of books there are the various musical instruments accumulated over 40 years of studio teaching. Each of these has it’s own peculiar odor. An inventory includes: Three violins and one viola smelling of lacquer and French polish, various bows and cakes of piney rosin, an old dusty harpsichord, two seven foot grand pianos – metallic and woody, a Persian setar (not a sitar), a Vietnamese dan bau, a couple of saxophones that reek of old brass and spit when the cases are opened (obviously I rarely play the saxophone anymore), a flamenco guitar, two ukuleles, a clarinet, various percussion instruments and an old accordion that reminds me of the scent of a long neglected closet in my grandmother’s house. In addition to the signature scents of these “tools of the trade” there are the often ripe odors of the younger students, the distinctly pungent smells of the high school girls and guys who come to their lessons directly from cross country and soccer practice and, of course, the scent of the piano teacher herself, oozing tuberose or some other powerful concoction. Add to this blend the odors from the upper floor – sandalwood incense, cooking odors, the smells of Fender the dog and Gomez the pionus parrot and you have my own L’Eau de Studio, the notes of which go something like this:

Oriental Lace Oscar de la Renta Azar's #2

Turpentine, dust, mildew, paper, rosin, wood, salt, spit, sweat, tuberose, honey (from the pionus parrot), sandalwood, a general animalic, onions and toe jam.

Whoever made the Styleite comment was certainly not a student of mine! This person must have visited a piano teacher who baked buttery, almond cookies for her students (I don’t do that), wore a patchouli-scented shawl (not me), sipped hot chocolate (occasionally) and cared for an old, blooming Hoya carnosa (I’ve not been there).

Oriental Lace by Calice Becker for Oscar de la Renta 2012

Oscar de la Renta Essential Luxuries Collection

Oriental Lace Oscar de la Renta FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Honey, almond, cacao, hoya carnosa, wax plant, patchouli

On my skin Oriental Lace opens with a greasy version of imitation butter. Thankfully that aspect is gone very quickly leaving something like buttered popcorn coated in vanilla-sugar and honey. After about 20 minutes the popcorn morphs into a honey-almond cookie and then to patchouli and what is probably Oscar de la Renta’s version of the scent of a blooming wax plant (the H. carnosa). This hoya-patchouli bouquet lingers for 10 or more hours finishing with a faint whiff of vanilla, cacao and butter. I’ve gone through a couple of samples but am not yet convinced that I need a full bottle of this gourmand, lightweight floral. There are five more Essential Luxuries in the collection, a couple that I like better than Oriental Lace and will probably review sometime soon. But for now, Oriental Lace is not a fragrance that is essential to my luxurious life as a piano teacher, although it is many times more appealing than L’Eau de Studio!

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Now Smell This does a great run down of the line
Oscar de la Renta has $150/100ml
Neiman Marcus has $150/100ml

giveaway manoneileenPhoto Stolen manoneileen

Oscar de la Renta Essential Luxuries Collection GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

Today’s give-away is for one, brand new complete sample set (about 1.5 ml each) of Oscar de la Renta’s Essential Luxuries Collection, including the following fragrances: Oriental Lace, Santo Domingo, Sargasso, Granada, Coraline and Mi Corazon, all in a small satin monogrammed pouch

P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Leave a comment about what YOUR workplace or home smells like. (Comments on any of the fragrances in the Essential Luxuries Collection are also welcome.)

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Oscar de la Renta Oriental Lace GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2ym #Perfume #Giveaway @OscarPRGirl

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 13th March 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Monday 17th March 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Azar xx

CHANEL No 18 by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 1997

Hello Happy Huffers,

While in Vienna we dropped into the Douglas store near the Steffenplatz where the have a CHANEL room. I was quite naughty and grabbed a bottle each of Bois des Iles and Coromandel EdTs, only the small bottles and neither is opened yet. With my purchases though the girl who served us gave a wonderful bunch of samples. this then is one of those samples…

CHANEL No 18 by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 1997

Les Exclusifs de Chanel No 18 Chanel

Chanel No 18 FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Ambrette (musk mallow), fruity notes, iris, woody notes, flowers

That musk mallow and iris opening is so soft and warm and plush, dry, slightly herbal and wearable. There seems to be loose tea leaves, or a nod to them. CHANEL No 18 reminds me of the scent as you walk into a very plush furniture showroom during the week. Part wood, part leather, air conditioning and the idea of those expensive cleaning agents that mask bad odour and have a very low refreshing murmur of their own try so hard to be, yes, that’s it. CHANEL No 18 smells clean, expensive and luxe. As you wear No 18 it becomes more comfortable, as if your own scent has a wash over it. My skin does not give me hardly any fruit or flowers in the usual sense of the words as I expect them, they are hints, supporting and filling and smoothing the composition. Maybe rose? Maybe carnation?

 Chanel No 18 An-Elegant-Beauty WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

CHANEL No 18 is every inch an elegant beauty, not overpowering, fresh, modern, interesting and I can imagine it being a go-to scent for someone perfectly poised, or looking to smell that way, with a hidden warmth. The iris is cool and slightly carrot-ish, woods are an aromachemical(?) I wonder because when I smell them for a while they disappear to return as I bring my hand back within sniffing distance, and the musk mallow stays around playing fluffy, powder and hair at different times, though it’s not noted I think there are more musks too, clean white musks that continue pumping long after my skin has eaten the fragrance, maybe 2 hours fragrant and double that to nothing.

Chanel No 18 Herve Leger Christopher Macsurak  FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Perfume Posse
CHANEL No 18 is available at all CHANEL boutiques, especially the make-up ones and in Europe from some Douglas stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/m

Les exclusives are so easy to wear, perfectly blended, don’t last forever. These can all be exactly what I’m looking for in a fragrance, sometimes, no I take that back, often. It makes it very easy to understand why they are so successful, everyone knows CHANEL can be trusted to have them smelling good.

Which is your favourite CHANEL Les Exclusive?

Portia xx

Génie des Bois by Keiko Mecheri

Heya Frag Friends,

After going through my fragrance wardrobe before leaving for holidays I came across a bunch of samples that remained untried, they needed some loving and skin time. I am trying to work my way through some of these and so over the next few weeks there will be a slew of fun new things to write about, new to me anyway. If you wonder I write about a fragrance usually after a minimum 3 wears, that gives me a slightly broader understanding of a fragrance and how it reacts in different situations. The first wear is often to bed, even for my afternoon nap, where I can focus on the fragrance and its subtleties without distraction. I find this also calms whatever worries or cares i may have and lets me really unwind.

Génie des Bois by Keiko Mecheri

Genie des Bois Keiko Mecheri  FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Violet, violet leaf, cacao pod, Brazillian rosewood, benzoin, tonka bean

Interesting, every time, there’s something slightly minty that comes out in the Genie des Bois opening that plays with the violet leaf and resinous wood. It doesn’t stay long but it adds a glamour of intrigue over what is essentially a simple and pretty fragrance, modern, extremely wearable with moderate sillage and projection. Does a cacao pod smell a bit like very bitter chocolate? Is it the resins keeping everything smooth because this is smooth and beautiful like a polished stone that has had time to warm in your hands.

Genie des Bois Keiko Mecheri  Violets squinza FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Sugared violets? They are sweet and more like violet lollies, even a bit like the violet tea additive from Walter Reimer in Vienna. Then through all this comes the softest powdery violet (?), so fluffy, soft and downy. I cannot tell you what is happening really because the note list seems way too short for how much lovely fragrance action Genie des Bois offers up. Musk? There is a small reminder of Lolita Lempicka EdP but the sweetness is way less fizzy in Genie des Bois, if LL were to grow up and be made for a woman ready to go forth and glitter at an event then I think this could be an excellent choice. Do you remember the moment in Two Weeks Notice where Sandra Bullock arrives at the gala in that gown, hair done, perfect, radiant, soft focus and breathtaking. She is at once modern and eternal, a picture of lovely historic Hollywood glamour and every modern girls  (and quite a few boys) dream of how good it can be. That’s what Genie des Bois says to me when I wear it.

Genie des Bois Keiko Mecheri Sandra_Bullock Sketch cameralucPhoto Stolen cameraluc

GAHHHH! I have no idea what I’m smelling here, violets and woods and a bunch of yummy other un-named stuff. What I can tell you is that it is very, very lovely and I am seriously thinking of a purchase.

LuckyScent says this: This is not an old-fashioned powdery violet by any means, this kitten’s got claws! As the name hints, this woods- based scent uses cedar and other exotic woods to impart an unusual base on which lies violet. A very green violet, that is, which gradually sweetens and softens as the fragrance evolves on your skin. Genie des Bois falls somewhere between a feathered-slipper wearing, gold cigarette holder-wielding, old-school movie star and a very naughty bacchanalian romp in a forest blanketed with wild violets. We think you’ll love it, dahling. Kiss kiss.

Genie des Bois Keiko Mecheri Shannon_-_Lady_Violet WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Il Mondo di Odore and The Fragrant Foodie
LuckyScent has $115/75ml
First In Fragrance has samples €5/3ml

Do you have a violet in your wardrobe? Do you like the Keiko Mecheri line?

Till tomorrow, be nice to yourself,
Portia xx

Liberté by Domitille Bertier + Olivier Polge for Cacharel 2007

Hello Frag Hags and Friends,

I have written of this fragrance before, it is one of my go-to frags and I have no idea why it is so addictive to me. What I can say is that it’s a hugely under-rated gem, it’s cheap as chips at the discounters and when I wear it I am instantly transported to a happy place, even from dark despair. When I am already feeling good it’s a mood matcher, bright, sparkling and super silly.

Liberté by Domitille Bertier + Olivier Polge for Cacharel 2007

Liberte by Cacharel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Amalfi lemon, bergamot, mandarin orange, bitter orange, orange, freesia
Heart: Marmalade, white honey, heliotrope, gardenia, frangipani, white flowers, sugar
Base: Patchouli, vetiver, spices, vanilla

So here we have a fruit-chouli, one of my least liked of the fragrance models. It’s fizzy, spicy, sweetness in most other versions of this frag type leave me cold or send me straight to the bathroom to bathe. Very similar to one of the Miss Dior incarnations, that I don’t like particularly, there is something in the mix that makes me happy. The first time I wore it I felt as if it had burned its way into my olfactory area with a cauterising pole. Since then the ride has been less fraught but I will always remember that first scary/fabulous ride.

Here’s how my skin reacts with Liberté. Opening up I get the sweetest, sparkliest whoosh of hot citrus, like someone has thrown and enormous amount of sugar and oranges on a Bar B Q, I think the Bar B Q effect is a dry, woody and raspy patchouli. This fun and crazy zing lasts only about 2 minutes but it’s so fabulous. Once that burns off we still have loads of sugar, spice and citrus but it feels more jellied, more like sugar coated soft jubes. The ones that you put three in your mouth at once and the flavour engulfs your whole body. It’s a sticky, fun fair flavour that could be fairy floss if it was just a trifle sweeter, I think still the patchouli keeps Liberté’s feet on the ground.

 Liberte Cacharel  Sugared_jubes WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Can I say that there is nothing natural feeling about Cacharel’s Liberté, everything feels so completely synthesized and over processed, like a citrus version of single wrap sliced cheese where the wrapper is probably healthier to eat than its contents. Yes, I KNOW, but I love it. It stays fairly linear for a couple of hours, getting softer and softer, adds in some vanilla and ends its life sweetly as it has been all through the 3 hours fragrant and 2-3 hours close to your skin.

Further reading: The Scented Salamander and Australian Perfume Junkies
FragranceNet has $33/50ml before coupon

Here’s the thing. I know this is no masterpiece of fragrance. Liberté has been discontinued in Australia and is selling for peanuts on the discount stores that still have it. Frankly, I don’t care what the world thinks because when I wear Liberté I am instantly and unreservedly happy. It brings a smile to my face even thinking about spritzing it. So it’s not art, so what? Art is rarely this profoundly joyful and I’ll take smiling and bubbling with fun. In fact, I make that choice regularly when I spritz Liberté.

Portia xx

Liberté Cacharel – Gisele Bündchen

Chambre Noire by Dorothee Piot for Olfactive Studio 2011

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Post by TinaG

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Hi APJ,

The concept behind Olfactive Studio is the interplay between imagery and perfume – a picture can tell a thousand words, so can a perfume capture the essence of time and place. It is this junction where the two meet that is Olfactive Studio’s creative space. Each of Olfactive Studio’s five fragrances are the result of teamwork between a photographer and a perfumer, working together to capture not only a moment, but the interplay of thought and emotion around that moment.

Chambre Noire Olfactive Studio photoPhoto Stolen Olfactive Studio

Chambre Noire by Dorothee Piot for Olfactive Studio 2011

Chambre Noire Olfactive Studio FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Schinus (pink peppercorn)
Heart: Jasmine, papyrus, violet, incense, prune
Base: Sandalwood, patchouli, musk, vanilla, leather

Chambre Noire is another name for “Camera Obscura”, the first type of box camera using pinhole light exposure so there is a bit of mystery, play of light and dark and what is revealed in shadowy corners. The photograph that this fragrance was designed in conjunction with is a barely lit hotel room, the reflections revealing more about the room itself than the direct view.

On first opening I get a big waft of violet and sandalwood and what I think is amber, although it is not listed in the notes. Within 10 minutes the violet had dropped away, with incense, shinus and a woody scent that I can’t really place. Schinus is the genus of pink peppercorns, and are not related to ‘true’ pepper, in that pink pepper does not contain the fiery piperine of true pepper. Shinus has warm, fragrant, bright and uplifting qualities. I managed to get hold of some the other day, and could quite happily chew a few pink berries without my mouth slowly catching on fire.

Chambre Noire Olfactive Studio  Pink_Peppercorns WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

After 2 hours the violet & light florals make a return, along with some very gentle leather and the sandalwood humming in the background. A warm sensual mix, in a kick off your high heels & chat over a glass of wine kind of way. The feeling I get from it is more one of companionship rather than a mysterious liaison, like winding down for the day, but with enough of a zing in the air to keep conversation flowing.

The dry down at 4 hours has musk and vanilla joining sandalwood, which gently linger until it fades to a faint memory. I would wear Chambre Noir when going out with a small group of friends on weekends, or give myself a pick-me-up spritz in anticipation of Friday night after-work drinks.

Chambre Noire Olfactive Studio fragrancePhoto Stolen Olfactive Studio

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Smelly Thoughts
First In Fragrance has €125/100ml and €4/3ml samples
Olfactive Studio has $195/100ml Delivered to Australia

Have you tried Olfactive Studio’s fragrances? Did any of them stand out for you?

Tina G xx

Pentachords White by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2011

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Post by Sister Mary Magdalen, Patron Saint of Perfumers

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Fragrance lovers, today I pray your indulgence as I sing a hymn to my favourite note in perfumery: Violet.

So unfashionable, I know. She has not the vampish allure of look-at-me Tuberose. She lacks the ballsy ubiquitous oomph of oudh. No, gentle reader, I languish in the limpid embrace of a shy flower. Her beguiling gaze from a by-gone time first lured this poor soul into the bottomless, limitless, wallet-emptying world of fragrance obsession.

My adoration for her is such, that I am not content merely to spray and smell, I must also consume violet creme chocolates, candies, liqueurs… anything really. Recently, after much searching, I procured a bottle of violet flavouring. Power up! Now I can have violet cereal. Violet anything!

Hence last week saw me whipping up a batch of vanilla butter cupcakes. They were in the oven and I was taste-testing the intensity of the violet white chocolate ganache that would soon adorn them, when I heard the all-too-familiar knock of my parcel postman at my front door. “My Tauer Explorer Sets!” I realised but even more delight was in store for that Swiss devil had included samples, one of which I had been fantasising about since first I read the list of notes:

Pentachords White by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2011

Pentachords White Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vanilla, violet, amber, iris, Brazillian rosewood, orris.

Of course I sprayed away without delay and was immediately delighted by a clear violet and vanilla that stunned me with pleasure. Perhaps this explains my weakness: violet is key to a bliss lock in my brain. Andy Tauer shares his process via a generous and genial blog, so I know that he has used the particularly narcotic violet aromachemical – alpha ironine – in Pentachords White. Despite these gourmand sounding notes and a subsequent dusting of icing sugar that seems to fall on the starring pair of violet and vanilla, the overall fragrant impression is very dry. The blog tells me this is because the composition rests on Ambroxan. The salty, buzzy rasp of it is evident, but to my nose, exquisitely balanced. It radiates and gives structure, but does not dominate.

Pentachords White Tauer Perfumes Violets U.S. Fish and Wildlife... FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The longevity of Pentachords White is impressive, and the fragrance holds together. No element outlasts the others. To my nose, this is an all-night heavenly disco where Violet and Vanilla dance on a warm wooden floor whilst the Iris smoke machine and Ambroxan mirrorball add haze and scatter.

I’m fascinated by the idea of these Pentachords. I have now tried them all, and Pentachords White is truly the standout for me. This is not just due to my love of the violet, but also to my perception that this one much more than Auburn and Verdant successfully translates the 5 note concept. White truly is an unresolved tension between 5 points in space. It shimmers.

Pentachords White Tauer Perfumes Shimmer danielle defrancesco  FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The play of oppositions in this scent is enthralling. Somehow Pentachords White manages to be sheer and abstract, yet alive on my skin. It oscillates between warmth and coolness. One moment a toothsome hologram of a violet ganache vanilla butter cupcake will loom in view (such synchronicity with my baking!), then a buzzing menace reminds that this sweet little treat just might bite back.

Further Reading: Smelly Thoughts and Now Smell This
LuckyScent has $150/50ml
Tauer Perfumes has $34.70/5 x 1.5ml Discovery set

Which of the Andy Tauer fragrances have you tried or did you like?

Sister Mary Magdelene, Patron Saint of Perfumers.

Oude Arabique by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for DSH Perfumes

Hello my APJ Family and Friends,

As you may have noticed I love the independent perfumers that make good fragrances. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is one of them for me, her work is innovative, original, fun and sometimes challenging. She can take a tired note and refresh it so even the most jaded of palettes will be brought back to full attention.

Oude Arabique by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for DSH Perfumes

Oude Arabique DSH Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tolu balsam, resin, mastic
Heart: Agarwood, incense, sandalwood
Base: Australian sandalwood, buddahwood, Himalayan cedar, tolu balsam

So straight out of the decant I get a very heavy Pine-o-Clean disinfectant note that lasts about 5 seconds and then turns into a medicinal, bitter scent that lasts under a minute. It’s ferocious and fun. Sadly it doesn’t last and the whole fragrance softens off considerably. My advice is take a deep breath and spritz, letting your breath out very slowly if you want to miss the opening fireworks. Give Oude Arabique at least 30 seconds to burn off before your initial sniff.

Oude Arabique DSH Perfumes prophets-mosque FotoCommunityPhoto Stolen FotoCommunity

I am unsure about the oudh here, it smells pretty damn real to my nose (which we have ascertained over two years is not always on point). There is a faint hint of bandaid and barnyard but really the resins and woods are the stars in Oude Arabique for the main part. They are raw and fresh hewn, only slightly buttery through the heart of the fragrance and the resins supply some fat and animalics. I read in one review that there is some ambergris floating around which could be the something tangy and beachy, working with the oudh to create an extremely pleasant fragrance that is obviously niche and with what smells like some quality natural ingredients too. Subtle, nuanced and pretty yet still a fragrant wear, projection is not huge but you do change the air around you if you sit for some time. It’s a creeper of a fragrance, sending out woodsy tendrils to capture the unwary. About 2 hours of fragrant before going close and then another couple of hours humming on your skin softly, waiting for someone to come close enough before it can lure them in.

Oude Arabique DSH Perfumes bath_house WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Although this would generally be thought of as a masculine any women with the want could definitely rock this like crazy. I’d love to smell it on some of my very girly girlfriends, it would create a super interesting disconnect that would be incredibly alluring. MMM My mind is wondering who of my friends to take it to.

Further reading: EauMG and All I Am A Redhead

DSHPerfumes has EdP and Parfum strengths starting at $5
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $11/ml