Ummagumma by Bruno Fazzolari 2017

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Portia

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Hi there lovers of NEW!

Ummagumma arrived in the December LuckyScent Sample Pack. People whose noses I admire have praised it unconditionally and with great gusto. I admit to be excited at this new release from and independent perfumer making interesting and beautiful fragrance.

Ummagumma by Bruno Fazzolari 2017

Ummagumma Bruno Fazzolari FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Saffron, Carnation, Chocolate, Tobacco, Leather, Labdanum, Sandalwood, Cedar, Frankincense, Tonka bean, Vanilla

Imagine. It’s 42C (107F) and I am wearing Ummagumma. Chocolate, tobacco and labdanum. It’s thick, rich and ropey and I have brought to the table sweaty fat man to add to the cacophony. Choc/amber done majestically. Ummagumma smells a little like something I can’t quite place.

It’s about 2 hours later now and Ummagumma has lost most of its potency. What remains is a soft focus, vanilla heavy amber. It is clean and sweet, but not confectionary sugar sweet, resinously sweet. A comfortable amber that doesn’t really live up to the explosive extravagance of the opening or the name. Ummagumma sounds like it’s going to maintain its fragrance like gum does as you chew it for hours. Not here. Maybe I was over-expecting because I did read Claire’s post at Take One Thing Off.

I also think that I may be paralleling this work with unfavourable comparison to the way Pierre Guillaume does sweet amber heavy scents. Now I question myself, would I buy this if I were sniffing in a store? The answer feels like it might be a yes. It is lovely and the opening spectacular.

Not a bad dry down scent, very nice, extremely wearable, comfortable and unchallenging. Second and third wearings have shown me that it is a seamless and smooth blend. The ingredients smell expensive and lavish to me (though I have no real knowledge of ingredients or costs) and I find myself enjoying the ride much more. Sadly, that’s the end of my sample, I have my eye on the Portfolio Discovery Set now.

Bruno Fazzolari Portfolio Discovery Set 5 x 1.7ml atomizer vials LuckyScentLuckyScent

Further reading: Take One Thing Off and Colognoisseur
LuckyScent has $125/30ml
LuckyScent also has $30/Portfolio Discovery Set: 5 x 1.7ml atomizer vials

Have you tried any of the Bruno Fazzolari fragrances?
Portia xx

Manguier Métisse by Pierre Guillaume for Huitième Art 2010

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Portia

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Hi there APJ,

It’s interesting how a new brand will come out with three or four fragrances and often only one or two get any interest generated on the scentbloggosphere. So much so that when I saw the name Manguier Matisse my immediate thought was, “Ooooh! New Huitième Art. Must try that immediately.” So I bought a Surrender To Chance decant. On further delving I discover it was in the original release back in 2010. So I figured, if I’m a complete fan and don’t know it, then how many of you have never had time to adore this beauty?

Manguier Métisse by Huitième Art 2010

Manguier Métisse by Pierre Guillaume

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Fruity notes, mango, tea, sugar, frangipani, woody notes, powdery notes

Interesting, Manguier Métisse means Mango Tree.

Opening gives me mango tea, radiant style, creamy white floral backdrop. Imagine if original Gucci Guilty Femme (2010) was mango centric, used the best quality ingredients and was smoothed by a softly laconic creaminess. There, you have it. That is exactly how Manguier Métisse smells to me. It perfectly presents the dreamy idea of sitting in the shade of a flower gardens Mango Tree in the tropical, humid heat.

Manguier Metisse Huitieme Art Mango Tree patoune54 PixabayPDI

This is not the big band creamy tropical lasciviousness of Annick Goutal’s Songes but more like a summer flanker of Elie Saab Le Parfum (2011), yet I find it a more sophisticated, elegant scent. Less such you in the nose to get your attention and more come hither, just a little bit closer.

Manguier Métisse maintains its heart scent for hours, very linear, until as it fades a nondescript woodsiness underplays the creamy florals.

Ultimately wearable and I’m really liking it in the heat of Sydney summer but I bet it could wash away the winter blues in a moment.

Further reading: Confessions of a Perfume Nerd
LuckyScent has $125/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $5/ml

Manguier Métisse GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
1 x Manguier Métisse decant (from my decant)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us a scent you use in winter to remind you of summer

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 24th December 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 28th December 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Helicriss by Sylvaine Delacourte 2016

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Kate Apted

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G’day APJ family,

The weather in the southern states of Australia has not been particularly ‘spring-like’ lately. I finally got around to separating my scent collection into four piles; one for each season. I am beginning to think this somewhat futile an exercise, simply because I never know what each day will be like. As a result, I dig into my other piles for more temperate offerings. It is pretty much back to disordered mayhem. I did, however, find a little 7.5ml bottle of summery sunshine I’d completely forgotten I had!

Way back at the beginning of the year, I ordered Sylvaine Delacourte’s sample set. I quite liked the range, but I found them a little quiet in general. Musk based, with each scent promoting a different facet based on Ms Delacourte’s memories. I was drawn to the powderiness of Florentina and the smooth ylang ylang of Lilylang. The most interesting I found was Helicriss. So, over the winter months, I ordered travel sizes of four of them. In time, they got lost amongst all my smaller sized bottles. The one it seems I had used the most of, though, was Helicriss.

Helicriss by Sylvaine Delacourte 2016

Helicriss Sylvaine Delacourte FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, cinnamon, rosemary
Heart: Grapefruit, lemon, tonka bean
Base: Immortelle, patchouli, benzoin, musk

What is so enticing about this one? It has a very unusual blend of notes to produce a musky curry. There is no doubt immortelle is a major note, but it is the blend of patchouli, grapefruit, benzoin and the musk that gives it a firey heat. I am grateful this is a skin hugging scent. It would be completely headache inducing if it projected Poison or Angel like. It is the constant reminder of the scent just being there that makes it pique my curiosity.


Helicriss Sylvaine Delacourt green-curry Pixabay
PDI

I have absolutely no idea how others find it. Thirty minutes after applying, the curry accord dies down to leave a warm, aromatic rosemary and musk. So, by the time I leave the house, Helicriss has already begun its metamorphosis into a herbally musk. No one has ever made mention of this scent at all, so I guess it is polite enough to wear around others. Interestingly, of the entire range, which does lean to a slight ballet-pink-feminine feel, I think this would smell heavenly on a man. There is one guy at work I am hoping I can get to spray this on himself. After months of helping him search for THE scent, I secretly suspect Helicriss is it.

When I used Helicriss over winter, it always gave a feel of dried grass, hay and the dense heat of the midday humidity of an Australian summer day. It has a dusty, wind like sense that makes me yearn for a sudden rainstorm. I am unsure how Helicriss will fare over the blistering heat of summer, but now that it has joined my spring pile, I’ll get to find out. In the meantime, Helicriss will bring sunshine on a temperamental grey spring day.

Helicriss Sylvaine Delacourt australian wheatfield PixabayPDI

Further reading: Now Smell This and Scent for Thought
LuckyScent has $160/100ml and Samples

Which scents suggest, or are indicative of, summer months in your country?
K xxx

Charlatan by Fort & Manle GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Portia

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Hi there APJ,

Thank you to Rasei of Fort & Manle. Such generosity. It’s wonderful to have this beautiful bottle and the scent is freaking amazing.
I hope you’re a winner,
Portia xx

Charlatan by Fort & Manle GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pear, dark chocolate
Heart: Damask rose, Moroccan jasmine, vanilla, tuber
Base: Osmanthus, Australian sandalwood, amber, Madagascar vanilla

Fort & Manle parfum has $230/50ml
Peony Melbourne also has the range

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 10 winners who will receive:
1 x Fort & Manle Charlatan decant (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

 

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 17th December 2017 10pm Australian Edst
Winners were chosen by random.org

  1. Hage Kay
  2. Monica Beaton
  3. Tim
  4. Jyotsna
  5. Crikey
  6. Kerri Clarke
  7. Paul mills
  8. DW
  9. Jaybee
  10. Sue Mills

The winners will have till Thursday 21st December 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Bois Noir by Aurelien Guichard for Robert Piguet 2012

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Portia

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Hey All,

Mildly amusing story. When I was shopping at Surrender To Chance for my decants recently (it was a 5ml Friday Frenzy) and I thought I’d ordered Bois Bleu by Robert Piguet. Anyway, it turns up and I don’t really look at the label because I know what I ordered right? Wrong. So I’m sniffing myself as I walk the dogs this morning and I’m thinking to myself, “This is bloody familiar. I can’t quite place it but Bois Bleu smells EXACTLY like something I already have. Like, EXACTLY!!

Yeah dumbass, because you ordered Bois Noir, that you already have a paid retail for bottle of when Joe Garces was out here in 2012. Ha Ha Ha Ha ha. Sometimes I surprise myself. No sweat.

Then I noticed it never got a post of its own, so…….

Bois Noir by Robert Piguet 2012

Bois Noir by Aurelien Guichard

Bois Noir Robert Piguet FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Gaiac wood, Cedarwood
Heart: Patchouli, Sandalwood
Base: Balsam, Labdanum absolute

Can we talk about the Piguet bottle please? It is the super coolest. Clean lined, easy to hold and spritz, nice heft and if you are a one bottle person this would make such a statement. Cunningly retro but wholly modern, it looks and feels like an old school movie stars fragrance.

Bois Noir by Robert Piguet Sparkle woman pexelsjpegPDI

Woodsiness, what Scott and I call Bro Woods. Here it’s tempered with patchouli in a luxurious dose and an earthy sweet labdanum. Bois Noir is a very chill customer, smooth and well worn, a comfortable fit. This is your favourite jeans after a weekend of wear, super comfy and a bit raunchy.

The woods manage to be dry pencils, tea chest and creamy sandalwood all rolled into one, then add some smoky incense. Hyper masculine scent that will smell fabulous on the girls. I’d love to smell it on a couple of my cool sexy girlfriends and some suits.

Longevity and projection are slightly above average, I can totally imagine Bois Noir as the hipsters choice.

Bois Noir by Robert Piguet sunset-summer-hipster-pipe PexelsPDI

Further reading: Non Blonde and Persolaise
Libertine has $299/100ml FREE Australian Delivery
Surrender To Chance has $5/ml

Have you tried any of the modern Robert Piguet perfumes? Did they tickle your fancy?
Portia xx

Charlatan by Rasei Fort for Fort & Manle 2017

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Portia

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Hey Hey APJ,

I have a mate who makes perfumes, yeah a quiet creative genius. He is Rasei Fort of Fort & Manle. In Australia it’s hard to get a perfume company started because we have a small population with an even smaller affluent few who can afford luxury perfume as a hobby. Most people have a small fragrance wardrobe under 5 bottles and never even venture near a niche brand, let alone an Indie one. So it has been a wonder of the modern world when their Fatih Sultan Mehmed became a finalist in the Art and Olfaction Awards 2017!

Just so you know, Rasei has taken the reins of Fort & Manle by himself now. Charlatan has been given a reboot this year so it is utterly his composition. He sent me a bottle to try and also to share.

Charlatan by Fort & Manle 2017

Charlatan by Rasei Fort (2018 Reboot)

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pear, dark chocolate
Heart: Damask rose, Moroccan jasmine, vanilla, tuber
Base: Osmanthus, Australian sandalwood, amber, Madagascar vanilla

Colour me IMPRESSED! This could easily be one of the Armani Prive line or an early by Kilian. YET, it is infinitely more interesting. Smooth and balmy, a fragrant highly polished stone, at once earthy and yet utterly manufactured to be just this scent.

Notes? My nose reads very little as notes. It seems the whole has melded so seamlessly that Charlatan is only of itself.

Pear, light frisky on open and into the heart. Vanilla done in sheer and weightless new planes. Woods as creamy and resinous as caramel malted milk. Everything else has melded to a magnificent, magnifiscent.

How did this young man create something so perfect?

Can we also talk about the bottle and presentation? Stellar. Although pedestal opening boxes shit me to the rage, everything else is stunningly perfect. I am in love and gushing like a young thing.

If you love perfume and fragrance then you must try Charlatan. For me, this is what the idea of niche really should mean. Small batch independent work ruled by passion but with an eye to business. Bravo Rasei, excellent work.

Fort & Manle parfum has $230/50ml
Peony Melbourne also has the range
Fort & Manle Discovery Set $60/8 x 2ml

Charlatan GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 10 winners who will receive:
1 x Fort & Manle Charlatan decant (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please go to the Fort & Manle site. Pick a fragrance and tell us its name, plus ONE note it has. (NO DOUBLE UPS)
If you put more than one note you will be disqualified, that’s being greedy.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 17th December 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 21st December 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

 

Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC WINNERS

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Portia

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YAY! A wonderful competition, thanks for getting involved crew.
Let’s see who the winners are!
Portia xx

Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC WINNERS

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, Lily, Lily-of-the-valley, Neroli, Orange blossom, Tuberose
Heart: Jasmine, Nutmeg, Rose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Iris, Vanilla, Vetiver, Frankincense

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
1 x Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC decant (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 10th December 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winners were chosen by random.org

ClaudiaS

Alice

Hamamelis

The winners will have till Thursday 14th December 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC

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Portia

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Hi Vintage Vamps,

There’s something incredibly special about vintage. Sure, I know people bang on about them changing over time and that you’re not smelling the perfumers original intent. BAH Humbug. I’ll enjoy fragrance any which way I like and please don’t try and ruin my fun. Chasing the elusive, finding a near perfect gem, wearing something never to be created ever again that has been kept sometimes for over a century. THAT is fun, exciting and special.

Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, Lily, Lily-of-the-valley, Neroli, Orange blossom, Tuberose
Heart: Jasmine, Nutmeg, Rose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Iris, Vanilla, Vetiver, Frankincense

This is the cleanest vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC I’ve smelled. The aldehydes are still fizzy and a little oily as they rise off my skin in combination with the most magnificent bouquet. What can I smell? White flowers and creamy ylang over incense and a bunch of stuff I can’t place or name. What they smell like for me is CHANEL No 22.

I can tell you how it feels to wear it though. Carefree. Like a burst of warm sunshine on a gloomy day. Maybe the thrum of your blood through vines after a hearty belly laugh. Lunching with friends somewhere cheap and cheerful with a water view.

Warm winds, hot sand and a convertible car ride.

Sure, No 22 EdC is a glamour puss, bold and sophisticated. It does seem to me when I wear her that she may be all that but when it’s a 22 day she’s on holidays. It may be nearest beach or it could be the Greek islands, wherever no 22 lands she’ll be welcome.

Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
1 x Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC decant (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us what your favourite CHANEL fragrance is

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 10th December 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 14th December 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Top Five Hot Weather Fragrances: Gabriella 2017

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Gabriella

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Hello perfumed peeps!

We’ve had quite sultry weather in Melbourne lately with temperatures over 30C for days straight. The heat has caught everyone by surprise, including me, as it usually doesn’t get this hot until January or February. The change was sudden too: one day I was in jumpers and coats and luxuriating in my dark rose and woody scents and the next day I’m sweltering in a sundress and wondering what perfume to wear. So, today I want to share my:

Top Five Hot Weather Fragrances

Fragrantica

Amyris Femme by Francis Kurkdjian for Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2012

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon leaf, orange leaf
Heart: Amyris, iris
Base: Vetiver, agarwood (oud)

The Parisian chic choice. Amyris Femme dazzles from the opening with bright and juicy lemon blossom coupled with soft iris and delicately spiced woods. It’s a joyous scent that is still incredibly elegant and poised.

Further reading: The Candy Perfume Boy
Mecca Cosmetica has 70ml/$228

Fragrantica

Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2005

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, melon, eucalyptus
Heart: Ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, salicylates
Base: Tuberose absolute, orange blossom absolute, coconut, musk

The sexy diva. Carnal Flower is the perfume equivalent of diving head first into a huge florist’s fridge brimming with creamy tuberose flowers. Lush tuberose is front and centre, but the eucalyptus provides a lovely green quality to the fleshy white blooms laced with a touch of coconut.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin
Mecca Cosmetica starts at 10ml/$84

Fragrantica

Lily by Florence Idier for Comme des Garcons: Olfactory Library 2000 (reissued 2017)

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Lily of the valley, freesia, syringa, dog rose buds

The lovely green one. I’ve struggled to find a good lily of the valley scent since the original Christian Dior Diorissimo was reformulated beyond recognition, but this may just be it. Here, the lily of the valley is very stemmy and verdant but devastatingly pretty.

Mecca Cosmetica has 50ml/$130

Fragrantica

Original Vetiver by Olivier Creed and Erwin Creed for Creed 2004

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Ginger, mandarin, bergamot
Heart: Vetiver from Haiti, Mysore sandalwood, Florentine Iris
Base: Musk, ambergris

The “It’s too hot for perfume” choice. Many vetivers tend to be on the heavier side but this is the soft caress of a feather on skin. Mandarin and bergamot keeps things bright and fresh with a touch of gentle iris and salty ambergris.

Further reading: Katie Puckrik Smells 
Libertine Parfumerie has $339/75ml

Fragrantica

Rosa Greta by Fabrice Pellegrin for Eau d’Italie 2017

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Litchi, white tea
Heart: Rose bud, Damascus rose infusion
Base: Cedarwood, ambrox

The summer office scent. Made to commemorate Greta Garbo’s disappearance from the paparazzi in the Amalfi Coast in 1938, Rosa Greta is joyful but still very elegant. Lychee and a gorgeous tea note lend a vibrancy to soft rose.

Mecca Cosmetica starts at 100ml/$204

So what are your favourite perfumes for when the mercury starts to rise?

With much love until next time!

G x

Sharing my Perfume Passion

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Sandra

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Hiya wonderful smelling APJers! How is everyone doing?

As many know, I have had a love affair with perfume since I was a child. I have other passions as well, such as travel, photography, sketching and music. I am not sure if it is the language or age, but I am obviously more comfortable in my skin now and where I would normally keep mum about my loves, I find myself expressing myself more freely. This is a great opportunity for me because it takes me to new places and I am meeting so many wonderful people.

A friend of mine approached me a few weeks ago to speak at an expat morning meeting at the school. About perfume! I was skeptical at first but decided to go ahead and it was a pleasant revelation for me of how open and curious people were.

Sharing my Perfume Passion

I decided to share my love of Neela Vermeire Creations. Big question was how to go about doing so. I adore Neela’s perfumes as they use some of my favorite notes and spices. The Netherlands is the place to live if you love flowers so my first stop was the florist where I discussed what kinds of flowers are readily available in November and they did a marvelous job. I chose to include fragrant flowers and not all are used in the NVC perfumes. We had lily, tuberose, freesia, ‘Yvette Piagaitte’ rose, ‘Free Spirit’ rose, a third rose which they could not name and finally stock also known as matthiola incana which is clove-like in scent.

I included fresh mango, cinnamon bark, cardamom pods, vanilla bean paste, essential oils of frankincense, sandalwood and jasmine and a leather clutch for its scent.

We kicked off the meeting by starting to sniff the various flowers. Many of the participants were astonished at how different each of the roses smelled.

There was the obvious love/hate reaction with tuberose. Interestingly though those from tropical climates loved the tuberose. We moved through the spices, oils and finally the fresh cut mango. Once that was done I sprayed Bombay Bling onto a tester paper and all were amazed that they could easily identify the mango and also the lychee. A friend of mine loved Trayee not for the incense but for the ganja which she could identify (I cannot). Several participants could identify cardamom or cinnamon.

In attendance was a man who did not know exactly what to expect but enthusiastically sniffed the flowers, spices and oils. When it came to testing the perfumes he was under the impression that a man could not possibly wear any of these perfumes. I convinced him to try Mohur as I find men can really rock its spicy rose with glorious sandalwood. He loved it and went away with the knowledge that perfume can be unisex and that it will smell differently on each and every one of us!

Each of the participants had a clear favorite so at the end of the talk I gave the participants samples of the perfumes they were interested in and a flower of their choosing. It was a lovely morning and I would like to thank the expat group for giving me this opportunity.

Neela Vermeire Creations Discovery Sample Set €55 

Do you have any inhibitions when it comes to talking about your perfume passion? What would you talk about?

Wishing everyone a wonderful start to December.

Oodles of fragrant kisses,
Sandra xo

 

(ED: All photos supplied by Sandra. Thank you. XXX)