Summer Scentsations: Heat Busters

September 5, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

TinaG

Hi gang!

Last year I struggled to find fragrances which I could wear on a daily basis, which cut through the ridiculous heat of summer. I gravitated towards modern watery aquatics and fruits. My mainstays were Hermès – Un Jardin Apres La Mousson, and L’Artisan Parfumeur – Mandarine, and the occasional blast of Serge Lutens – Borneo 1834 for sultry evenings.

I was discussing summer fragrances with friends recently – Here’s a list of a few that we talked about for our wish lists:

Summer Scentsations: Heat Busters

Fragrantica

Heeley – Sel Marin

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, green notes
Heart: Salt, sea water, sea grass, moss
Base: Musk, cedar, leather.

I’ve been craving more of this fragrance – I had a quick sniff last year when I was in the UK. There was something intimately sexy about it – underlying clean funkiness, like a salty sun-kissed person’s chest at the end of a very active day. A far cry from your regular ‘marine’ fragrance.

Fragrantica

Estée Lauder – Bronze Goddess

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, ginger, mandarin
Heart: Indian samba jasmine, coconut, jasmine
Base: vanilla, cashmere wood, musk, amber.

I know that this is a general favourite for summer, but both my friend and I weren’t all that familiar with it. We will get together and split a bottle when the next round hits the shelves. I think this would definitely cover off the tropical beach coconut vibe for a summer’s day.

Fr Fragrantica

CB I Hate Perfume – At The Beach 1966

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Coppertone, North Atlantic, wet sand, seashell, driftwood, boardwalk.

This transports me back to the days of kicking around the beach as a kid. I remember using Coppertone, usually SPF 2 of 4….. I don’t know how we didn’t get absolutely toasted. This perfume smells like a day at the beach. Totally. It’s brilliant.

Fragrantica

BeauFort London – Fathom V

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Juniper berries, tangerine, black currant, green notes, soil tincture
Heart: Thyme, lily, jasmine, ylang ylang, ginger, cumin, black pepper, mimosa
Base: Patchouli, vetiver, oak moss, salt, incense, atlas cedar, amber

My friend Kerri recently purchased the BeauFort London – Come Hell or High Water discovery set, which in itself is magnificent. It is a leather roll with generous 7.5ml travel sprays of each of their fragrances. I had been lusting after this for a while so I was both dead jealous and super excited to have a look at them. The green hit in the opening of Fathom V is a mix of bright freshly cut flowers and deeper greens, which we likened to walking into a cool florist shop. I need to spend more time with all of this range, they are both amazing fragrances and an intriguing aesthetic.

Fragrantica

Le Labo – Lys 41

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Jasmine, tuberose, lily, woody notes, vanilla, musk

Lys 41 is a beautiful cool white floral. The lily is subtly sweet and there’s nothing I find overpowering. There’s a time in the morning just before the sun rises where a blue-grey haze lights up the frosted panelling of my bedroom door. I’ve been finding myself spritzing Lys 41 at this time as part of a gentle fragrant wake up, and then re-spritzing throughout the day while the sun moves through its daily arc casting different shadows and colours through the house. I really enjoy it and I will definitely be bringing this routine over into the summer months.

You can get samples of most of the at Surrender To Chance

So how about you, APJ? What have your worn this summer, or are planning to?

Till next time,
Tina G

La Selle by Jerome Epinette for Byredo 2016

September 4, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Portia

Hey Ultra Rich Perfumistas,

These babies are expensive. So expensive my mind is having trouble grasping it. US$18.33/ml. Yes, you read that right. PER MIL.

Yes, I know they’re extrait but seriously, that is aspirational pricing out of this world. For the same price as 30ml of La Selle I can buy 2 x 100ml Serge Lutens with enough spare to buy a 7.5ml Byredo Roll On Oil in Mojave Ghost. So from a price point perspective they have set the bar extremely high, my expectations for performance, beauty and wit are through the roof.

La Selle by Byredo 2016

La Selle by Jerome Epinette

La Selle Byredo Fragrantica Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Black tea, cashmere
Heart: Leather, tobacco leaf
Base: Birch, oakmoss

Opening is that 21st century niche woodsy scent with the slight throat drying bite of tea. Within a minute the leather has made itself known and the familiar birch component, that dark charred wood and sweat smell, comes forth. La Selle keeps it friendly and welcoming and even the most birch averse will not be totally overwhelmed. Not listed but I smell honey and beeswax, there also is a soft fruitiness like banana peel.

La Selle is all luxury. If this is saddle leather it has never been on a horse and never known a horsemans bum. It has also been sitting in the shop for a decade because that new leather saddlery smell is gone leaving much more of the waxy resins and the fabric & stuffing.

PDI

La Selle is to die for. I have three large spritzes on my arm and it is sheer but surprisingly insistent. I am not allowed to forget that I’m wearing it. I get busy and halfway through a process it comes back and reminds me I’m wearing La Selle. It seems very sweetly resinous but I can’t pinpoint which ones. Also I’ve smelled the dry down, or very similar before, but I can’t bloody well remember where. It hangs around softly pulsing into tomorrow, dry but sweet, smooth and lightly creamy.

Aha! Light bulb moment. La Selle’s dry down is similar to Guerlain Samsara in dry down. Not exactly the same but boy are they related.

If I wore a single fragrance daily and had $550 to spend on 30ml of fragrance (about two to three months if I wear it exclusively everyday) then I would be seriously considering a purchase here. I’m not that guy though. Actually I’m being a bit silly. A CHANEL 15ml of No 22 is $225 currently so La Selle is exactly double that, I wouldn’t bat an eye at paying that for No 22 and I honestly think I’d get more wear from the Byredo.

PDI

Further reading: Colognoisseur
LuckyScent has $550/30ml and Samples

Would you pay that money for something spectacular?
Portia xx

Australian Tea Towel + Mixed Samples GIVEAWAY WINNER

September 3, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom

Portia

OOOPSIE! APJ!
I forgot to draw.

Here it is. Sorry it’s late.

Australian Tea Towel + Mixed Samples GIVEAWAY WINNER

Samples include:
DIOR Privée: Oud Ispahan
DSH Perfumes: Vanille Tonique
Yves Saint Laurent: vintage Y parfum
Annick Goutal: Heure Exquise
Victoria Minya: Hedonist
Bogue: MAAI
CHANEL: vintage Cuir de Russie EdT
Guerlain: Jicky PdT
Armani Prive: Cuir Noir
IUNX: Eau Blanche
Abdes Salaam: Ambergris Tincture

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Australian Tea Towel
A bunch of 11 samples & decants (Mainstream, Indie & Niche most around 1/2 full)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Wednesday 30th August 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winner was chosen by random.org

Alen Miron

The winner will have till Wednesday 6th September 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Poivre by Michel Morsetti for Caron 1954

August 31, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Portia

Hey there APJ,

Today we are going old school. Caron has long been lauded as a house to revere. Their Tabac blond vintage extrait is enough to give even the most hardcore perfumista Stendahl Syndrome. I have quite a bit of their vintage Bellodgia and Infini in all forms, Nocturnes, Narcisse Noir, Parfum Sacre, Nuit de Noel and a sprinkling of others in samples and decants. There is even an old extrait bottle that has lost its label and I’ve given up deciding what it is and just wear it for the absolute pleasure it brings.

Poivre by Caron 1954

Poivre by Michel Morsetti

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Clove, Pepper, Red pepper
Heart: Carnation, Rose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Oakmoss, Opoponax, Sandalwood, Vetiver

Pepper and clove, zingy, dry, hot, smoky and ticklish in the back of my throat. It’s like fresh cracked black pepper and cloves. The bottle even looks like one of those clove studded oranges Mum would put in the bathroom over Christmas to give a spice/clean smell. The opening is big and surprising. Did you ever smoke those clove cigarettes? A bit like that but with added dryness.

This huge fanfare doesn’t stay at that level for long, maybe two minutes and then we start to smell a lessening in intensity and in swirls a mildly creamy ylang. It’s such a counterpoint to what comes before and really gives a smoothness, slightly banana peel and a little waxy. The rose and carnation are so much part of the clove that I’m finding real difficulty in telling them apart. Though the fragrance intensity has lessened still we have a fully fragrant spice bomb.

Poivre Caron Parfumo Parfumo

Even hours and hours later I still have cloves that are now lightly tempered by resins and a hint of dry grass. Longevity is out of this world and though not hugely projecting it still leaves a very interesting scent train (I can smell Poivre in the room when I walk out and back in again).

Further reading: Yesterday’s Perfume and Non Blonde
I bought my sample from Surrender To Chance but they don’t seem to have it anymore.

Do you have anything absolutely precious in your sample kit that you know once it’s gone you’ll never have again?
Portia xx

Yin & Ylang by Laurie Erickson for Sonoma Scent Studio 2014

August 30, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 3 Comments

Erica Golding

Hello fragrance junkies all over the world!
It’s summer all up in my hemisphere, and I’ve just discovered a gorgeous perfume that I wager would be equally perfect to bring a breath of wanderlust to a chilly Aussie winter’s day. This morning, I am sampling:

Yin & Ylang by Sonoma Scent Studio 2014

Yin & Ylang by Laurie Erickson

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, blood orange, aldehydes
Heart: Ylang oil, jasmine sambac absolute, tuberose absolute, beeswax absolute, rose damascones, ginger CO2
Base: Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss absolute, patchouli, amber, vanilla, musk.

The lush roundness of tropical blossoms is shot through with an effervescent zing of bright freshness, while being grounded by a patient hum of gentle musky woods and amber. The balance is striking. This perfume takes the concept of Big White Floral and gives it a whole new edge and versatile wearability. The floral absolutes are exquisite and luxurious, while the sunshine citrus notes aren’t the least bit contrived or sharp. (I guess I should say Big Tropical Floral since ylang ylang is yellow, heh!) As the perfume continues to develop, a hint of oakmoss anchors the composition, conjuring visions of wild adventures in the forest.

Yin & Ylang was released in 2014, and I am so thrilled that I have discovered it even though I am a bit late to the party. This perfume is an absolute dream. I am insanely picky with floral fragrances, and this is just over the top magnificent. Hearts in my eyes over here! I have two more samples from Sonoma Scent Studios in my little package waiting for me to try, and I’m super stoked.

Yin And Ylang Sonoma Scent Studio Henri_Rousseau_-_Exotic_Landscape WikiMedia WikiMedia

Further reading: Now Smell This and Scented Hound
Sonoma Scent Studios has $21/5ml and samples

Have you stumbled upon a perfume recently that made you wonder “how the hell did this escape my radar?!” Tell me about your treasure excavations!

Love and light,
Erica

Series 3 Incense: Zagorsk by Evelyne Boulanger for Comme des Garcons 2002

August 25, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Portia

Hey APJ,

Today I’m using up the last of my decant. It wasn’t a big one but I really liked the idea of smelling spacious today and emptying anything around here is cause for quiet rejoicing.

Series 3 Incense: Zagorsk by Comme des Garcons 2002

Series 3 Incense: Zagorsk by Evelyne Boulanger

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Frankincense, pine tree, chilli pepper, violet, cedar, iris, Hinoki cypress, birch

Cold, woods, wax, emptiness. It’s like you can feel yourself transported to a huge cathedral empty of humanity in the dark of night. There is something completely spacious about Zagorsk, so much room that the scents become thin, as if they are memories.

Zagorsk Comme des Garcons WikiMedia WikiMedia

Isn’t it interesting what comes to mind to write about. I was at a funeral yesterday for the father of a girlfriend I’d had in our mid teen years. I arrived about 40 minutes early and the Anglican church was quiet, cold and smelled a little like Zagorsk. There was the scent of incense burnings long past, candles burning, wooden pews waxed brightly by a century of cloth covered bottoms and the scratchy crackle in my nostrils of decades old dust. I spent about 10 minutes wandering through the two adjoining chapels and reminisced about my friend, our group, the amazingly fun times we had in their lavish old sandstone mansion in the best street in our suburb (by far). We were all so fearless, funny and beautiful.

Zagorsk is not a big scent. Most of the notes in it are blended way beyond my ability to parse for you. What I get more than a fragrance is a memory scent. Memories of getting to Catholic churches as a child/teen an hour before to sing in the schoolboys choir for mass, weddings, christenings and anything else they needed us for. It’s a feeling of expectation for me. The hurry up and wait, often in poorly warmed old buildings , and having time to reflect on stuff while looking at poor old Jesus stuck eternally on the crucifix.

WikiMedia

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Now Smell This
Harold’s in Australia has the Incense range in store
LuckyScent has $95/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

What do you wear that feels cool, airy and reflective?
Portia xx

Antonia’s Flowers by Bernard Chant for Antonia`s Flowers 1985

August 23, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Kate Apted

Hello and welcome APJers,

Today, I want to make a small confession. There is a certain Mecca store that has a pretty much empty tester bottle. And I am reasonably certain it was me who emptied it; over the course of a few months. So, I got a bottle for free, in a sense.
I did end up spending the paltry $80 for a bottle of my own. I felt absolutely shamed that I had really received two bottles for the price of one. As this was the very last bottle on the shelf, the tester with zilch but bubbles of air in the spritzer hose was then put away in the drawer. I almost asked if I could have it. But I kept my shame to myself.

Antonia’s Flowers by Antonia`s Flowers 1985

Antonia’s Flowers by Bernard Chant

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Freesia, jasmine, magnolia, lily, fruity notes

Antonia’s Flowers is the perfume that I am talking about. It is such an unassuming bottle and a very plain box, and for some reason, Mecca stores often keep this on the lowest shelf and in the corner. Mine had been sitting there for a very long time. The box lid is faded and there was a thick layer of dust on the top when I bought it. The first spray of the tester was over a year ago and I hastily put the tester down with a look of disgust on my face. The opening is harsh and hard hitting. It still is something I am not used to, but I now know to avoid my wrist for a few minutes.

I have to admit that this is straight up freesia. There are other notes listed, but I don’t get any of them until the last 20 minutes, and that is after freesia assault for an hour. By this stage, it is a very close skin scent anyway. It is evident that Antonia was a florist; the scent is uncannily haunting and indicative of a haute florist at the height of spring. I can imagine WASPy Hampton brides in the late 80s and early 90s using this as their signature wedding scent. While this is most certainly a white flower fragrance, it is not polite or gentle. It is unapologetically bold and haughty.

WikiMedia

There are a few things that annoy me about Antonia’s Flowers. First, it really does only last an hour and a bit on me. Second, the lid does not fit on the sprayer. I had to unscrew the lid, to then screw on the sprayer, and the lid does not fit on the sprayer. Third, the long necked sprayer stops the bottle from having the lid of the box close. I like to keep my perfumes in their boxes, so this does irk me.

Then there is the BUT… I adore this scent. I truly do. It takes me back to the days I’d ramble down the alley ways of the rural town I lived in as a child. All sorts of wild flowers grew along people’s back fences and along the creek beds. Older women would spend hours in their cottage gardens and I’d take in all the smells on my walks.

Antonia's Flowers Antonia`s Flowers Freesia_flowers field manfredrichter Pixabay.jpg PDI

Further reading: Liberty London Girl and Azar on Australian Perfume Junkies
Mecca has $80/50ml FREE Australian Shipping

What shameful perfume secrets do you have? You know you want to share…I dare you!
Be good. Kate xx

Feminite du Bois by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2009

August 22, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Portia

Hello APJ,

Sorry but I forgot to post yesterday. With all that’s going on around here somehow it completely slipped my notice that we had nothing going up.

Anyway, today we are talking about a scent that I didn’t really take much notice of when I smelled it. Perhaps it was nasal fatigue from smelling it in a bunch of others or maybe my taste has changed. A couple of years ago Jin and I went to the Palais Royale Serge Lutens store and had a fabulous morning going through the whole of the Lutens line. While we were there Elvire also showed us a historical lineage of Feminite du Bois since the original bottles and suddenly I understood.

Feminite du Bois by Serge Lutens 2009

Feminite du Bois by Christopher Sheldrake

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Beeswax, Clove, Honey, Cardamom, Musk, Orange blossom, Peach, Plum, Rose, Vanilla, Violet, Ylang-ylang, Cedar, Cinnamon

OK, so anyone who loved the original Shiseido version of this baby is never going to be satisfied with the newer version. That’s OK, plenty of other perfume out there for you to sniff and enjoy. Mourn it’s passing, you’ll have to move on.

Here is my bottle, bought recently from a friend on the FB pages. As you can see it’s the original Palais Royale export bottle stamp. So not the 100% modern version but ahead of the Shiseido curved mauve bottle that looks disturbingly like a human organ.

What I smell mainly is ginger. A spiced ginger smoothed over by beeswax and honey to create a plush and velvety opening. The stewed fruit comes in later, swirled in like mixing it through a cake batter. None of these opening heavy hitters really leave but as the fragrance dries down I am left with a sweet vanilla woodsiness and the cool crispness of green leaves. Fully fragrant longevity is not excellent, Feminite du Bois seems to soften off alarmingly after less than an hour and the dry down hums along very close to my skin for a couple of hours till I lose it completely.

Féminité du bois Serge Lutens fruit-cake-batter publicdomainpictures PDI

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Now Smell This
FragranceNet has around $100/50ml before Coupon
Surrender To Chance has samples from $6/ml

Hope your life is doing all right,
What has surprised you after years of neglect?
Portia xx

34 Boulevard Saint Germain by Olivier Pescheux for Diptyque 2011

August 18, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Portia

Hi there APJ,

Diptyque is a fragrant dinosaur from 1961. One of the Mass-Tige stalwarts I think they have done well to maintain their individuality through nearly 60 years of operation. Often bypassed by perfumistas because of their safe and pretty perfumes if you dig through their enormous range there are a lot of beautifully crafted, elegant perfumes. If the first reason for fragrance is to smell good then Diptyque should be regularly accoladed.

34 Boulevard Saint Germain by Diptyque 2011

34 Boulevard Saint Germain by Olivier Pescheux

34 boulevard Saint Germain Diptyque Fragrantica Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blackcurrant, green leaves, fir leaf, citruses, pink pepper, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon
Heart: Rose, geranium, tuberose, iris, violet
Base: Woods, resins, balsams, eucalyptus

2011 was the time that I discovered the online world of fragrance, started reading blogs and found sample sellers. Till then I had been avidly following the magazines and department store adventures of scent and was unprepared for the incredible largesse of niche, indie and artisan. Suddenly I was trying son many incredibly mind expending creations from around the world that almost anything available within easy reach had lost its lustre. So 34 Boulevard Saint Germain was released with barely a raised eyebrow in the scentbloggosphere and thus I remained unaware of how it actually smelled until much later.

Once I got 34 Boulevard Saint Germain on my skin I liked it very much, not a deep love yet, but I did take notice how ravishing it smelled. Then I went back and read a few lacklustre reviews and started doubting my own empirical evidence and with the constant rush of something new completely forgot about it. Until I tried it again a year or so ago and it went straight back on my wish list.

Then a mate was having a sell out and for a very reasonable price I was suddenly the owner ofd a 50ml bottle (Thanks Liam you sexy man). Then I wore it a few times and liked it very much. Till now and it’s been on my desk as a sneaky spritzer for months. It doesn’t even get put away in its box anymore but sits proudly on top, just in case I need a happy reminder how much I adore it.

PDI

How does 34 Boulevard Saint Germain smell? Well, it opens up big. It’s a luscious green melange that is smooth, bittersweet and slightly feral. It only lasts a few minutes but the opening fireworks are like every note in the list is trying to get your attention and by doing so they lose their individuality and become a larger than life fragrance that is zingy, creamy, green woods, bark and broken leaves drizzled over the squeaky sweetness of blackcurrant cordial.

The floral bouquet is unopened tuberose and a clover rose, but they are only bit players really because by the time you know it’s them they are already second fiddle to the resins and balsams. Which is what I am left with for the majority of the ride, a very lightly sweet resinous wood. very calm and eat wear but not simple enough to be a yawn.

PDI

Further reading: Now Smell This and FragranceDaily
Mecca has $123/50ml FREE Australian Shipping
Surrender To Chance has samples starting from $4/ml

Do you have a favourite Diptyque?
Portia xx

Savoy Steam GIVEAWAY WINNERS

August 17, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom

Portia

Hey All,

I am still very excited by Savoy Steam. It has tickled an undreamt of taste bud for me and I have kept spritzing part of myself with it each day.

Thanks Libertine for sending the bottle.
Portia xx

Savoy Steam GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, eucalyptus, mint, pink pepper, rosemary
Heart: Rose, geranium, cardamom, hedione, tea
Base: Benzoin, incense, vanilla, white musk

Libertine has $279/100ml (FREE Australian Shipping)

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 5 winners who will receive:
1 x 5ml Penhaligon’s Savoy Steam
There will also be some interesting extras
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Wednesday 16th August 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winners will be chosen by random.org

Neva

Undina

Azar

Gina

Claudia

The winners will have till Wednesday 23rd August 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit